Great video. I have had and still have a bunch of 1st gen. gas and diesels. Just like the video said, always pull the floor mat or the carpet up and check for leaks. A common source of water intrusion is the heater plenum. They tend to crack, and water runs down the inside of the fire wall and gets under the mat/carpet and soaks the jute backing and causes rust. Another thing to do if you buy a 1st gen is cut a neat square/rectangular access hole in the heater box. Drill four corner holes and cut out a neat panel opening with a Sawzall or a thin cutting blade on a peanut grinder. Mice love to pack seeds and dry grass in these heater boxes. I think they get in from the heater air intake. If you don't create an access opening and suck the mice debris out, you run the risk of catching the truck on fire plus you get rid of the warm mouse pee smell when you run the heater. Just make an oversize cover out of sheet metal, paint it gloss black and install it with 4 sheet metal screws.
Keep the content coming Tim. I have a lot of work I need to do on my first gen to get it ready to be the tow vehicle I want it to be, while I am in retirement. Being a mechanically inclined imbecile, when it comes to cars, trucks, and motorcycles, the more learning I get from you and others like Tyler, really help me a lot.
Great video! I sold my 89 W250 (same color as in this video) last year and bought a 3rd gen 5.9 cr 325hp crew cab 4x4. Here's what I learned from my 1st gen. Lots of interior things in the cab go bad. I would never, ever want another 3:07 3-speed auto. It was a nonlockup converter that discarded the power from the diesel. It was a struggle to keep up with freeway traffic. The cab was noisy and uncomfortable. The auto trans had linkage that made the accelerator pedal very stiff. I would avoid the 3-speed auto and get the stick instead. It is a deal breaker to have the 3-speed auto for me and part of why I got rid of it along with I needed a crew cab. Mine was a Cali truck and there was still some rust but not too bad. Was rusted through at the top gutter and patching it wasn't easy. The steering sucks on 1st gets but it can be upgraded. They can have battery overcharging issues attributed to bad grounds and the wiring harness. The tailgate has plastic connectors that break but I liked it broken because I learned to grab the metal rods with my fingers instead. Harder for someone else to open it which I liked. Having a regular cab for me was frustrating and when I got a big dog it was time for a crew cab. Be careful what you wish for with a 1st gen. Yes, they are easy to work on and cheaper for things like injectors but my 3rd gen has no KDP to secure, more power, better ride and comfort, and a real crew cab. The 1st gen is a truck in it's raw form and takes a lot of work to get it to do what a stock 3rd gen can get out of the powertrain. The older 1st gens are very detuned in stock form. Each to their own but I prefer the 3rd gen. If you still want a 1st gen I suggest before buying it get it up on the freeway and drive it 70mph to see how you like it (shouldn't be a problem for a stick shift). Also, try towing your trailer before you buy it. Mine sold in 2 hours of the ad coming out.
I used to own a first gen D250 2 wheel drive stick. Straight six dodge Cummins. Same color. Extended cab. Loved the truck. Would love to own another one. Cool truck👍
Frame rust/rotting - surface rust is to be expected on anything close to 30 years and can be cleaned up, but I'd steer clear of any frame with enough spots and clues to rotting and pitting. Also, another idea for a video(s) would be preventative maintenance tips specific to the Cummins, e.g. oils that you prefer to use for engine, transmission, diffs, etc. I've used a zinc additive and lucas stabilizer on 15w40 T4 with great results on the 12v I just got (sitting at 159k miles). Also use 12 oz of low ash 2 stroke oil in fuel every 3rd fill up for help with lubricating the fuel system.
Yeah I forgot to mention frame rust and that's a biggie! I'll add that to the comprehensive list in the description 👍 Thanks for the video idea as well!
Well I love this channel for one I have a 84 crew cab d350 non dually 8 foot and a 87 w250 and your right on point about these old dodges here in pa there getting scarce the wiring is what I look at cause people don’t know what there doing. so they just cobble it together the frame rots by the gas tank love your crew cab keep up the awesome work
One thing to remember on the 3.07 rear that came in all 89 to 91.5 auto's , even 4 wheel peel trucks, have been discontinued log ago. If you chunk a ring and pinion, your out of luck. No manufacturer makes a dana 70 ring and pinion in 3.07. I have broken 2 of them. If you can't find used parts, its all over. The rear ends (open type) are prone to stretch the center spider gear pin holes in the carrier , then proceed to come out of the rear cover and say " HI " .
@1958johndeere620 what are your options when you blow your ring and pinion in a dana 70 with the 3.07 gears? I just bought one so I’m curious. Would you have to replace the entire axle and 727 transmission?
@@Miles-oi8yr To my knowledge the only other 3.07 ratio full floating axle ever available was a Sterling axle that was available in some ford 3/4 and 1 ton trucks and vans. You have 3 options, find used ( getting harder ) , update to the 3.54 or 4.10 with a overdrive transmission, or find the also rare Sterling and custom install that. Yes, you could stick with the 3 speed and a available 3.54, but with stock size tires your going to be turning pretty high in open road conditions.
@@ricardoramos5827 No, most standard trucks had the 3.54, or 4.10 gears both of which are available. The 5 speeds have overdrive, so they could get highway speeds with numerical higher rear axle ratio's. The 3.07 auto trucks 89 to 91.5 were a 3 speed 727 non overdrive so they needed a tall gear in the rear axle to get up to interstate speeds. I had 2 stock 89's and they would do 76 mph right on the governor.
From what I've seen, any 1st gen Cummins that runs and is at least 37% there is worth a few hundred grand. They hold their value for sure. You've built a very nice truck, by the way.
Your video is pinpoint, top notch, and quite frankly the best video I have seen on the subject. i noticed you started out with rust. Damn I was blessed, I got an 85 Powerwagon body with a 92, 5.9L...but the old man I got the Powerwagon body from had taken the thing to Ziebart rust protection like 13 times and still had a problem in the drip well. Fixed with drip well with Double Bubble glue I got on Amazon, but the whole body is perfect thanks to Ziebart.
Hi Tim! GREAT VIDEOS! Thanks! Would like to mention that for BEST RESULTS the stock steel rims should be used. Any wider rims or off sets will have negative effects on wheel bearings and steering. Same with larger diameter tires. These will affect performance, fuel milage and braking.
Im glad i changed both the front and the rear main seals when did the swap on my truck and i also did the kdp while it was out of the truck. Like always great informative video.
These are the 5 things I look for when buying a 1st gen cummins. What did I miss? What do you look for? I'm going to keep updating the description to make a comprehensive list of things we can all come up with 👍
Some of the earlier 3/4 tons use the 1/2 ton frames and were prone to cracks (I've heard it's not an issue with gassers but with the cummins it is) Not 100 percent sure of the exact time but I believe 91 and up d/w250 had slightly bigger frame rails to correct this.
I live up and New England and you hardly ever find rust free trucks and when I do they are expensive, but im starting to learn to weld so my search might be a bit wider. Thanks for the tips! I'll definitely refer to these if I go to check one out.
This is the first video I have seen of your a really enjoyed it. Thank you for the info too. A first gen is my dream truck so it helped me a lot. You earned yourself a new subscriber
Couple more things worth mentioning, the '89-'91 trucks have a shorter frame usually (6" I believe) and the '91.5-'93 trucks have an 8" tall frame. 2WD trucks EAT front suspension components but they ride nicer. The intercooled trucks also come from the factory with a pigtail for a tach under the steering column. I like a 5 speed truck the Getrag is underrated. Just overfill it by approximately 2 quarts via the shifter cover. I think someone even manufactures a kit for a taller fill port. I agree with you listing rust as the first item. I would thoroughly investigate the frame as well, especially around the cab mounts. Sick video as always dude
91.5 is the exception to the tach wiring as it is an in between year with no CPS yet, and still has external voltage reg. A lot of little things with the 91.5 as I am always finding out.
Good video, Tim. I would also add to check the injection pump to see if it's been messed with. Don't want to try to turn it up if it's already been done
I have 2 of these trucks there are no where in the shape of yours. Great tips especially the wiring tip. I have done PCM deletes and completely rewired mine and compared to a new truck was easy. haha Thanks for sharing! Love the 4 door mod as well...looks like from factory!
Would you recommend a pcm delete? I’m looking at a 1st gen as my first truck and my buddy has a 2000 2nd gen and his truck shuts off because of his pcm so I kind of want to delete the pcm to eliminate any chance of that happening to me
I had the chance to pick up an 82 Extended Cab D-250 perfect body with no engine and trans for $400 (I have a running donor intercooled 1995 p-pumped 12v with a 47rh to swap into something) but you've made me want a 4 door so bad that I had to pass on it. I have an '84 W250 single cab gas right now but my dream is a 4 door crew cab 4x4 first gen with a 12v that is super daily drive-able like yours. I'm thinking of swapping my 12v into my gasser but my gasser is 100% daily drive-able right now
Good video. However, I happened to find a 1990 about a decade ago WITH a factory-fit Banks 2.5 in. intercooler. Very rare find, needless to say. Last year during my COVID time off I did some retail therapy with modern silicone couplers, intake horn, etc. I re-did the intake horn and all the pipe, converting it all to 3-inch. I left the original Banks intercooler in there, since there was nothing wrong with it, and putting a 1994+ Mishimoto 3-inch intercooler in there would have been a hassle, trying to figure-out the mounting, etc.
@@decentgarage Thanks! By modern standards however, it was kind of a joke. The intake horn faced forward, and the cool-side pipe went all over under the hood, looking like a roller coaster. I was able to retro-fit a Pusher intake for a 1994-98 Dodge 12-valve, connected to a 1-foot long silicone coupler, with the rest of the cool-side pipe utilizing the dead space underneath the battery tray.Totally modernized. In fact, as a result of all my air intake and exhaust work, my idle seemed to increase, so I adjusted it down (thanks for that video, BTW) to a nice low idle, and at least 50 deg. F. cooler EGT @ idle. If you have a website or email, I could send photos.
I've got a good tip. Alot of the first gen trucks have been kinda frankensteined together. For example, when I bought a 1990, I was very excited and basically didn't look things over well until after I had the truck a few days, when I went to register the truck, I got to looking the title over closely and realized it said it was a 1990 half ton. The vin on the title matched the vin on the dash. The truck is all 2500 equipped, dana 60 n 70, Cummins, tf727. I ran the vin at a Dodge dealership and it comes back to half ton, manual trans, 6cyl truck. So I'm guessing the body or the dash? had been swapped at some time. LMC catalog also has a diagram to decipher the vin. Kinda puts you in a bad spot if you ask me.
@@decentgarage well laws are different state to state but at the end of the day it's just whatever a person is looking for you know. If the title stuff doesn't bother u then by all means. It was just something I didn't notice until it was to late. It doesn't bother my enjoyment of the truck. I don't know what would happen if the truck was stolen or something to that nature
Flying to Montana from pa this Friday to pickup a 92 W250 Club from the 2nd owner. Getrag was swapped to a nv4500. Rockers and frame look great, but it’s an older man and I’m lowballing so I feel bad making him get up there’s and ask for drip rail pics… we’ll c how it goes
On 3 of mine the KDP was fine, but the case bolts were all loose. One had the KDP blocked by drilling the case from the outside. I took it apart anyway, and yep, KDP was captured, case bolts loose.
As far as stock vs modified, I think fully stock is better. However, if it is a modified truck, it could be a sweet deal. That is something I would have to look at. If they through a big single on the engine with crazy big injectors, that's a no go for me. If the thing just billows smoke like crazy that's a no go. I don't want something that has been washed down and likely has major scoring on the cylinder walls. That's kind of why I default to stock trucks. Preferably if you can find one owner trucks butthat is a really hard thing to find lol.
I use half a wax toilet bowl ring wixed in with a tube of Lucas red and tacky grease. Heated up in an old cooking pot and brushed on the inside of the body panels, fenders, etc. Fluid film or chain lube for hard to reach areas. NO MORE RUST. Last for years!
13:26 The plastic trim pieces around the windscreen and back window are a problem, they are usually so brittle they break if you just touch them and replacements are hard to come by.
Decent Garage ya my injection pump was leaking between the high and low pressure part so I took the pump off and resealed it and since the pump was off I replaced the tappet cover seal since I had easy access lol
I was looking to buy one in the next couple months. I've had Ford's n Chevy's but never a dodge and I love Cummins so I figure it's time I get one but after watching this it seems I better off just finding a motor to throw in my ford 🤣
One thing I’ve seen is I’ve seen two 2nd gen 12 valve with the head gasket leaking next to thermostat an a 92 first gen and a 93 first gen real common if they have been over heated so 4 In total
Essentially on these old Dodges; the motor was great! That Cummins straight 6 would run forever with minimal maintenance. The rest of the truck around that Cummins motor on the other hand, was a piece of crap. The cab design dated back to 1972 with very few updates. Chrysler's build quality at the time left a lot to be desired in almost all areas. But there's something about them that compared to the ultra-sophisticated, ultra-expensive rigs we see today that is appealing. This truck is simple. It's cheap to run and easy to maintain and repair when it does break. Whether you're buying it for a daily driver or a collector, simplicity is its claim to fame.
TavO, It is not a good idea to just pull the KDP out. It still has some use in keep the alignment of the front case on the block. The best options are to either make a tab (this is what I did as shown in this video with a little piece of a coat hanger), buy a tab kit (overpriced IMO), or use a punch and peen the edges of the whole where the KDP sits and it will never come out.
Do you think you could do a video on the gear shift indicator in the dash display. Mine shifts fine but it doesn't show what gear. It only stays in "P" and doesn't touch N R D 1 2.
I am looking at picking up a locally owned 91 regular cab with a long bed 250 with the auto 3 speed and 5.9 diesel. It only has 103K on it. Its a typical arizona truck with sun burnt paint, so so interior but there is zero rust. Runs great, needs tires. The PO tied in awhole bunch of aftermarket CB and radio equipment that I would rip out. What would something like this be worth? He is asking 10K
I need a few clarify pieces of info to answer that. It's a 91 auto, is it a 91.5 intercooler auto with overdrive or a 91 non-intercooled auto without overdrive? Also, is it 4wd (w250) or 2wd (d250). If you don't know how to tell some of these things let me know and I'll tell you how.
@@PolishRadom1944 So that really isn't that bad of a price compared to what people are asking these days. To me the most important thing is rust free. I honestly wouldn't pay that much for a single cab as I love crew cabs but many people would consider that a fair price. I would try to get it for under 8k. It also varies significantly by region.
@@decentgarage I looked at an extended cab 1992 a few weeks ago with 230K on it. Little rougher interior but the outside was about the same and had a camper shell. They were asking 6K
Decent Garage tell me about it buddy just imagine if they did though same with 2nd gens like I know that there’s crew cab 2nd gens but there rare to find and the custom btw can you please do a video on fixing a speedometer Mine is giving me hell
Seeing as how this video is over a year old I doubt anyone will answer, but is 300,000 miles on a 12v that’s been a farm truck it’s whole life too much to invest my time and money in? Thankful for any thoughts and replies
300k miles is still definitely worth it. Just check out the stuff i mention in this video and inquire about the maintenance history. For the right price I'd totally buy that truck!
Absolutely no concern about towing that load. I have towed significantly heavier travel trailer configurations coast to coast (and back) several times with my stock 1992 W250 2wd automatic.
It really depends on what part of the country you are in and the condition of the truck. That truck could go for anywhere from 3k to 20k depending on those factors.
The normal 1st gen mirrors won't let you see around an enclosed trailer. They just don't come out far enough. I have tow mirrors on my 3rd Gen and even with them flipped down I can see around my loaded car trailer. In my 1st gen I can't. Just something to keep in mind you might have to deal with. If you plan on driving it a lot just remember some parts will be harder to find and more expensive than a newer model.
I would be shocked if the engineers designed it to have to take off the head to change the starter but I have worse. I would just change it from underneath.
@@decentgarage hey man, love your videos! Any info on the bad breaks? I changed the break pads and tighten up the drums. Any suggestions? Mines are pretty crappy.
If you are referring to the #hashtags that show up right below the video, UA-cam allows you to make 3 hashtags. To do this just add 3 hashtags somewhere in the description of the video and they will then show up how I have them. Hope this helps!
Decent Garage dang! Yeah I have 3 sets for it right now and jut haven’t found something I like. Looking to keep it kinda old school with not much offset.
have you heard about the broken cowl problem?There was a TSB from the factory in 1994 on it.Can't post a photo here www.dieseltruckresource.com/forums/1st-gen-ram-all-topics-93/cowl-cracks-238712/
Mark, great point! I have heard of this TSB and am aware of this issue. When buying a 1st gen though I would just go in to it knowing this will likely be an issue. I don't know if this would be an issue that would keep me from buying one since it is well know that it exists and there are suggested remedies. Just my thoughts.
@@decentgarage Agreed, but it is a tough repair since the plates are NLA. Got to be careful as it can affect the glass also, causing breakage.Cab flex is a problem in these trucks.Great channel by the way!
I have a 92 . The only rust is under the drivers door from where a step plate was. People keep trying to steal it from me. I mean like " would you take 6000 for it. Right, when new trucks are 65thousand?
I’m going to pick up a first gen tomorrow and this is by far the most helpful video on these trucks I’ve seen. Thank you!!
Awesome! Tell us more about it when you pick it up! I want to know the details.
Lucky I want one so badly I’m trying to find one but can’t find them anywhere
@@Tagueboss3993 they’re for sale just for unreasonable prices
@@rowdy5.9L agreed cheapest one I found was 5k doesn’t run
I believe ALL Tim's videos are VERY HELPFULL!!! 😊
I just got a 1st gen yesterday probably would have been helpful if UA-cam recommended this to me a little earlier
Hopefully is a sweet ride!
Great video. I have had and still have a bunch of 1st gen. gas and diesels. Just like the video said, always pull the floor mat or the carpet up and check for leaks. A common source of water intrusion is the heater plenum. They tend to crack, and water runs down the inside of the fire wall and gets under the mat/carpet and soaks the jute backing and causes rust. Another thing to do if you buy a 1st gen is cut a neat square/rectangular access hole in the heater box. Drill four corner holes and cut out a neat panel opening with a Sawzall or a thin cutting blade on a peanut grinder. Mice love to pack seeds and dry grass in these heater boxes. I think they get in from the heater air intake. If you don't create an access opening and suck the mice debris out, you run the risk of catching the truck on fire plus you get rid of the warm mouse pee smell when you run the heater. Just make an oversize cover out of sheet metal, paint it gloss black and install it with 4 sheet metal screws.
Keep the content coming Tim. I have a lot of work I need to do on my first gen to get it ready to be the tow vehicle I want it to be, while I am in retirement. Being a mechanically inclined imbecile, when it comes to cars, trucks, and motorcycles, the more learning I get from you and others like Tyler, really help me a lot.
Great video! I sold my 89 W250 (same color as in this video) last year and bought a 3rd gen 5.9 cr 325hp crew cab 4x4. Here's what I learned from my 1st gen. Lots of interior things in the cab go bad. I would never, ever want another 3:07 3-speed auto. It was a nonlockup converter that discarded the power from the diesel. It was a struggle to keep up with freeway traffic. The cab was noisy and uncomfortable. The auto trans had linkage that made the accelerator pedal very stiff. I would avoid the 3-speed auto and get the stick instead. It is a deal breaker to have the 3-speed auto for me and part of why I got rid of it along with I needed a crew cab. Mine was a Cali truck and there was still some rust but not too bad. Was rusted through at the top gutter and patching it wasn't easy. The steering sucks on 1st gets but it can be upgraded. They can have battery overcharging issues attributed to bad grounds and the wiring harness. The tailgate has plastic connectors that break but I liked it broken because I learned to grab the metal rods with my fingers instead. Harder for someone else to open it which I liked. Having a regular cab for me was frustrating and when I got a big dog it was time for a crew cab. Be careful what you wish for with a 1st gen. Yes, they are easy to work on and cheaper for things like injectors but my 3rd gen has no KDP to secure, more power, better ride and comfort, and a real crew cab. The 1st gen is a truck in it's raw form and takes a lot of work to get it to do what a stock 3rd gen can get out of the powertrain. The older 1st gens are very detuned in stock form. Each to their own but I prefer the 3rd gen. If you still want a 1st gen I suggest before buying it get it up on the freeway and drive it 70mph to see how you like it (shouldn't be a problem for a stick shift). Also, try towing your trailer before you buy it. Mine sold in 2 hours of the ad coming out.
Good points.
I used to own a first gen D250 2 wheel drive stick. Straight six dodge Cummins. Same color. Extended cab. Loved the truck.
Would love to own another one. Cool truck👍
Frame rust/rotting - surface rust is to be expected on anything close to 30 years and can be cleaned up, but I'd steer clear of any frame with enough spots and clues to rotting and pitting.
Also, another idea for a video(s) would be preventative maintenance tips specific to the Cummins, e.g. oils that you prefer to use for engine, transmission, diffs, etc. I've used a zinc additive and lucas stabilizer on 15w40 T4 with great results on the 12v I just got (sitting at 159k miles). Also use 12 oz of low ash 2 stroke oil in fuel every 3rd fill up for help with lubricating the fuel system.
Yeah I forgot to mention frame rust and that's a biggie! I'll add that to the comprehensive list in the description 👍 Thanks for the video idea as well!
Well I love this channel for one I have a 84 crew cab d350 non dually 8 foot and a 87 w250 and your right on point about these old dodges here in pa there getting scarce the wiring is what I look at cause people don’t know what there doing. so they just cobble it together the frame rots by the gas tank love your crew cab keep up the awesome work
Charles,
Thanks for the input. Wiring and frame rot are definitely things I avoid at all cost.
One thing to remember on the 3.07 rear that came in all 89 to 91.5 auto's , even 4 wheel peel trucks, have been discontinued log ago. If you chunk a ring and pinion, your out of luck. No manufacturer makes a dana 70 ring and pinion in 3.07. I have broken 2 of them. If you can't find used parts, its all over. The rear ends (open type) are prone to stretch the center spider gear pin holes in the carrier , then proceed to come out of the rear cover and say " HI " .
@1958johndeere620 what are your options when you blow your ring and pinion in a dana 70 with the 3.07 gears? I just bought one so I’m curious. Would you have to replace the entire axle and 727 transmission?
@@Miles-oi8yr To my knowledge the only other 3.07 ratio full floating axle ever available was a Sterling axle that was available in some ford 3/4 and 1 ton trucks and vans. You have 3 options, find used ( getting harder ) , update to the 3.54 or 4.10 with a overdrive transmission, or find the also rare Sterling and custom install that. Yes, you could stick with the 3 speed and a available 3.54, but with stock size tires your going to be turning pretty high in open road conditions.
So would this be a problem with the manual trans?
@@ricardoramos5827 No, most standard trucks had the 3.54, or 4.10 gears both of which are available. The 5 speeds have overdrive, so they could get highway speeds with numerical higher rear axle ratio's. The 3.07 auto trucks 89 to 91.5 were a 3 speed 727 non overdrive so they needed a tall gear in the rear axle to get up to interstate speeds. I had 2 stock 89's and they would do 76 mph right on the governor.
Solid advice as always!
I'm excited to see your take on the matter
From what I've seen, any 1st gen Cummins that runs and is at least 37% there is worth a few hundred grand. They hold their value for sure. You've built a very nice truck, by the way.
Haha good point. I hope more people keep trying to save them so their value keeps going up
I have only ever bought one First Gen Cummins and I still have it. That was 20 years ago so I really don't remember much about it.
Nice!
Unfortunately most of the first gens & 7.3’s have rusted away bad on the east coast. Great video!
Very true. It's so hard to find a rust free truck out that way.
Your video is pinpoint, top notch, and quite frankly the best video I have seen on the subject. i noticed you started out with rust. Damn I was blessed, I got an 85 Powerwagon body with a 92, 5.9L...but the old man I got the Powerwagon body from had taken the thing to Ziebart rust protection like 13 times and still had a problem in the drip well. Fixed with drip well with Double Bubble glue I got on Amazon, but the whole body is perfect thanks to Ziebart.
That ziebart sounds like good stuff!
Hi Tim! GREAT VIDEOS! Thanks! Would like to mention that for BEST RESULTS the stock steel rims should be used. Any wider rims or off sets will have negative effects on wheel bearings and steering. Same with larger diameter tires. These will affect performance, fuel milage and braking.
Good points
Love the channel man, always look forward to your next episode. Watching your vids gives me the confidence to work on my first gen. Keep em coming.
Thanks Josh! I'm enjoying making the videos and working on my projects.
Im glad i changed both the front and the rear main seals when did the swap on my truck and i also did the kdp while it was out of the truck. Like always great informative video.
Those are all definitely easier to do when the engine is out for sure!
These are the 5 things I look for when buying a 1st gen cummins. What did I miss? What do you look for? I'm going to keep updating the description to make a comprehensive list of things we can all come up with 👍
This is literally exactly what I told my buddy living in Georgia to look for. You nailed it Tim, fantastic video reference for all!
Did you do anything to the windshield seal? Had a friend with a safelite side gig that got me a new windshield and put a great seal on it.
Some of the earlier 3/4 tons use the 1/2 ton frames and were prone to cracks (I've heard it's not an issue with gassers but with the cummins it is) Not 100 percent sure of the exact time but I believe 91 and up d/w250 had slightly bigger frame rails to correct this.
I live up and New England and you hardly ever find rust free trucks and when I do they are expensive, but im starting to learn to weld so my search might be a bit wider. Thanks for the tips! I'll definitely refer to these if I go to check one out.
Doing rockets and cab corners aren’t hard after you get some practice
Yeah, putting in patch panels isn't too terribly hard. Just keep practicing and you'll do fine with it 👍
Check to see if the frame is cracked from the steering box.
That would be my advice.
Got mine welded back together
This is the first video I have seen of your a really enjoyed it. Thank you for the info too. A first gen is my dream truck so it helped me a lot. You earned yourself a new subscriber
Welcome to the channel A-Dog! Let's find you a 1st gen! 👍
@@decentgarage Thank you so much! I also want to convert one to 4 doors too
Couple more things worth mentioning, the '89-'91 trucks have a shorter frame usually (6" I believe) and the '91.5-'93 trucks have an 8" tall frame. 2WD trucks EAT front suspension components but they ride nicer. The intercooled trucks also come from the factory with a pigtail for a tach under the steering column. I like a 5 speed truck the Getrag is underrated. Just overfill it by approximately 2 quarts via the shifter cover. I think someone even manufactures a kit for a taller fill port. I agree with you listing rust as the first item. I would thoroughly investigate the frame as well, especially around the cab mounts. Sick video as always dude
Thanks for the input Ben! Those little details are great. I'm going to add them to the comprehensive list in the description!
91.5 is the exception to the tach wiring as it is an in between year with no CPS yet, and still has external voltage reg. A lot of little things with the 91.5 as I am always finding out.
Good video, Tim. I would also add to check the injection pump to see if it's been messed with. Don't want to try to turn it up if it's already been done
Good call. It's hard to find one with a virgin pump anymore. I think this touches on my point of modified vs. unmodified.
I have 2 of these trucks there are no where in the shape of yours. Great tips especially the wiring tip. I have done PCM deletes and completely rewired mine and compared to a new truck was easy. haha Thanks for sharing! Love the 4 door mod as well...looks like from factory!
Thanks!
Would you recommend a pcm delete? I’m looking at a 1st gen as my first truck and my buddy has a 2000 2nd gen and his truck shuts off because of his pcm so I kind of want to delete the pcm to eliminate any chance of that happening to me
Looking into buying one soon this video helps a lot keep making good content 👍
Let us know what you find when you're looking 👍
Good Advice Tim, Thumbs Up !
Thanks Ron! 👍
I had the chance to pick up an 82 Extended Cab D-250 perfect body with no engine and trans for $400 (I have a running donor intercooled 1995 p-pumped 12v with a 47rh to swap into something) but you've made me want a 4 door so bad that I had to pass on it. I have an '84 W250 single cab gas right now but my dream is a 4 door crew cab 4x4 first gen with a 12v that is super daily drive-able like yours. I'm thinking of swapping my 12v into my gasser but my gasser is 100% daily drive-able right now
Sounds like you have some decisions to make
Good video.
However, I happened to find a 1990 about a decade ago WITH a factory-fit Banks 2.5 in. intercooler. Very rare find, needless to say.
Last year during my COVID time off I did some retail therapy with modern silicone couplers, intake horn, etc. I re-did the intake horn and all the pipe, converting it all to 3-inch. I left the original Banks intercooler in there, since there was nothing wrong with it, and putting a 1994+ Mishimoto 3-inch intercooler in there would have been a hassle, trying to figure-out the mounting, etc.
Those factory banks setups are so nice! You're lucky!
@@decentgarage Thanks!
By modern standards however, it was kind of a joke. The intake horn faced forward, and the cool-side pipe went all over under the hood, looking like a roller coaster. I was able to retro-fit a Pusher intake for a 1994-98 Dodge 12-valve, connected to a 1-foot long silicone coupler, with the rest of the cool-side pipe utilizing the dead space underneath the battery tray.Totally modernized. In fact, as a result of all my air intake and exhaust work, my idle seemed to increase, so I adjusted it down (thanks for that video, BTW) to a nice low idle, and at least 50 deg. F. cooler EGT @ idle. If you have a website or email, I could send photos.
@@erwin643 I'd love to see how you did it. Send photos to decentgaragechannel@gmail.com
Make sure you put a tracking device on . 1st and 2nd generation with manual transmission are thrives favorite to steal.
I've got a good tip. Alot of the first gen trucks have been kinda frankensteined together. For example, when I bought a 1990, I was very excited and basically didn't look things over well until after I had the truck a few days, when I went to register the truck, I got to looking the title over closely and realized it said it was a 1990 half ton. The vin on the title matched the vin on the dash. The truck is all 2500 equipped, dana 60 n 70, Cummins, tf727. I ran the vin at a Dodge dealership and it comes back to half ton, manual trans, 6cyl truck. So I'm guessing the body or the dash? had been swapped at some time. LMC catalog also has a diagram to decipher the vin. Kinda puts you in a bad spot if you ask me.
Great tip! This can be a mixed bag though. I would rather have a truck with a cab swap due to rust then have to deal with the rust.
@@decentgarage well laws are different state to state but at the end of the day it's just whatever a person is looking for you know. If the title stuff doesn't bother u then by all means. It was just something I didn't notice until it was to late. It doesn't bother my enjoyment of the truck. I don't know what would happen if the truck was stolen or something to that nature
Going to look at a first gen hope it's a good steal.
Let us know!
This video is awesome. Thanks for all the tips!
Flying to Montana from pa this Friday to pickup a 92 W250 Club from the 2nd owner. Getrag was swapped to a nv4500. Rockers and frame look great, but it’s an older man and I’m lowballing so I feel bad making him get up there’s and ask for drip rail pics… we’ll c how it goes
On 3 of mine the KDP was fine, but the case bolts were all loose. One had the KDP blocked by drilling the case from the outside. I took it apart anyway, and yep, KDP was captured, case bolts loose.
As far as stock vs modified, I think fully stock is better. However, if it is a modified truck, it could be a sweet deal. That is something I would have to look at. If they through a big single on the engine with crazy big injectors, that's a no go for me. If the thing just billows smoke like crazy that's a no go. I don't want something that has been washed down and likely has major scoring on the cylinder walls. That's kind of why I default to stock trucks. Preferably if you can find one owner trucks butthat is a really hard thing to find lol.
I use half a wax toilet bowl ring wixed in with a tube of Lucas red and tacky grease. Heated up in an old cooking pot and brushed on the inside of the body panels, fenders, etc. Fluid film or chain lube for hard to reach areas. NO MORE RUST. Last for years!
That's any excellent idea!
👍 good video
Another that i always check is the
VE PUMP leaking 😳
Excellent point! I'm going to add this to the comprehensive list in the description 👊
2:17 My body wasn't rusty when I bought it 20 years ago, now it is! The first thing to check is the front edge of the roof, this is a real P.I.T.A.
Good call on that too!
Where the roof meets the windshield?
Beautiful truck, job well done man
Thanks!
13:26 The plastic trim pieces around the windscreen and back window are a problem, they are usually so brittle they break if you just touch them and replacements are hard to come by.
Great point.
Great video!
Thanks man! 👍
Awesome 1rst Gen video!!...Aloha🤙🏽
Thanks!
In all honesty the drip rail is what was going to tell me if he knew what he was talking about or not.
I’ve seen your truck in Payson at best deal springs a few weeks ago, do you ever do meet ups?
Yeah I live in Elk Ridge so I drive through Payson all the time. What are you referring to by meet-ups? Like truck shows?
Another common leak is the tappet/pushrod cover and to me that’s a bit harder than the rear main because the ve pump needs to come off
Excellent point! I meant to bring this leak up in the video but totally spaced it. I agree, I would rather do a rear main than a tappet cover.
Decent Garage ya my injection pump was leaking between the high and low pressure part so I took the pump off and resealed it and since the pump was off I replaced the tappet cover seal since I had easy access lol
I was looking to buy one in the next couple months. I've had Ford's n Chevy's but never a dodge and I love Cummins so I figure it's time I get one but after watching this it seems I better off just finding a motor to throw in my ford 🤣
Haha you may be right but they are cool truck either way
Can you make a video of putting a 91-93 grill on a 89 90 no ome has done a vid of it yet on here
Best way is to just swap to the intercooled core support
Great content! Very helpful. Subscribing
Welcome to the channel Clayton!
One thing I’ve seen is I’ve seen two 2nd gen 12 valve with the head gasket leaking next to thermostat an a 92 first gen and a 93 first gen real common if they have been over heated so 4 In total
Excellent point! Luckily I haven't run in to head gasket issues but I'm definitely going to add this to the list in the description!
I do Agree
Is there anything else you would add?
How do I tell if it's intercooled?
Is it better to have one that's intercooled?
Essentially on these old Dodges; the motor was great! That Cummins straight 6 would run forever with minimal maintenance. The rest of the truck around that Cummins motor on the other hand, was a piece of crap. The cab design dated back to 1972 with very few updates. Chrysler's build quality at the time left a lot to be desired in almost all areas. But there's something about them that compared to the ultra-sophisticated, ultra-expensive rigs we see today that is appealing. This truck is simple. It's cheap to run and easy to maintain and repair when it does break. Whether you're buying it for a daily driver or a collector, simplicity is its claim to fame.
Don’t fix what isn’t broken ya know
Some of these trucks have insane miles on them, show me any other truck with 700k+ that's in good shape? Lol
i had a 89 duley disel with 800 thousland no problem at all sold it for 15000
I believe it! They run forever
Please talk about the KDP, and what options we have,
I'm thinking about just removing it, and put a cover plate.
What do you think?.
Thanks,
Gus.
TavO, It is not a good idea to just pull the KDP out. It still has some use in keep the alignment of the front case on the block. The best options are to either make a tab (this is what I did as shown in this video with a little piece of a coat hanger), buy a tab kit (overpriced IMO), or use a punch and peen the edges of the whole where the KDP sits and it will never come out.
@@decentgarage Thanks.
Single cab shortbed
Do you think you could do a video on the gear shift indicator in the dash display. Mine shifts fine but it doesn't show what gear. It only stays in "P" and doesn't touch N R D 1 2.
Watch this video 👍
ua-cam.com/video/mn2aPcLl59g/v-deo.html
@@decentgarage just watched it, thank you so much apparently all I had to do was some digging in the videos. Thanks again
Head gasket coolant leak #1 cylinder on the passenger side.
And if you don't want a dually don't buy one. It's a fair amount of work to swap the rear axle and the front hubs.
Good point!
Agreed!
Do you know were I can find one of those
Watch my UA-camr road trip video. I show a few that are for sale in Utah.
I am looking at picking up a locally owned 91 regular cab with a long bed 250 with the auto 3 speed and 5.9 diesel. It only has 103K on it. Its a typical arizona truck with sun burnt paint, so so interior but there is zero rust. Runs great, needs tires. The PO tied in awhole bunch of aftermarket CB and radio equipment that I would rip out. What would something like this be worth? He is asking 10K
I need a few clarify pieces of info to answer that. It's a 91 auto, is it a 91.5 intercooler auto with overdrive or a 91 non-intercooled auto without overdrive? Also, is it 4wd (w250) or 2wd (d250). If you don't know how to tell some of these things let me know and I'll tell you how.
@@decentgarage It had a 9/90 build date and it is 4x4
@@PolishRadom1944 So that really isn't that bad of a price compared to what people are asking these days. To me the most important thing is rust free. I honestly wouldn't pay that much for a single cab as I love crew cabs but many people would consider that a fair price. I would try to get it for under 8k. It also varies significantly by region.
@@decentgarage I looked at an extended cab 1992 a few weeks ago with 230K on it. Little rougher interior but the outside was about the same and had a camper shell. They were asking 6K
@@PolishRadom1944 That's more like it. Those miles wouldnt scare me and I prefer a rough interior cause they are not hard to redo.
Fix the front seal...it will leak again...I am on my 3rd power steering pump
Yep, I hear ya!
I really wish that they actually put the Cummins in a crew cab but sadly they did not
I know! It's crazy to think the from 1986-2003 dodge did not make a true crew cab.
Decent Garage tell me about it buddy just imagine if they did though same with 2nd gens like I know that there’s crew cab 2nd gens but there rare to find and the custom btw can you please do a video on fixing a speedometer Mine is giving me hell
@@novacream8742 I will add that video to the list.
Decent Garage thanks man I really appreciate it 🍻🍻
Seeing as how this video is over a year old I doubt anyone will answer, but is 300,000 miles on a 12v that’s been a farm truck it’s whole life too much to invest my time and money in? Thankful for any thoughts and replies
300k miles is still definitely worth it. Just check out the stuff i mention in this video and inquire about the maintenance history. For the right price I'd totally buy that truck!
@@decentgarage thanks man I really appreciate it!
Where do you get your Cummins badges from? Im trying to find them.
They are hard to find and aren't reproduced.
What are the differences between beds are they all long beds because that just about all I have seen for sale?
Cummins only came in long bed.
Would buying a first gen dually with 230k stock engine for 5,000$ not be good ?
That sounds like a great deal if it is in decent shape with minimal rust.
Is this like truck softcore corn?... Like what's with this intro? This is definitely soft core for dudes. Come on guys.
Hey I’m looking for a truck just like yours right now do you have any leads
How would a 93’ d250 do for towing a car trailer with a 4K pound car on it?
It would do a great job. I've towed 8-10k for probably 5000 miles total with no issues. And mine is an auto.
Absolutely no concern about towing that load. I have towed significantly heavier travel trailer configurations coast to coast (and back) several times with my stock 1992 W250 2wd automatic.
Geo Bus thank you
Decent Garage thank you
Is it possible to buy a 4wd crew cab dually
It would have to be one that someone has built. Crew cabs didn't come with cummins. Any long bed crew cab including duallys were all 2wd.
What would a 90k miles 93 w350 dually sell for?
It really depends on what part of the country you are in and the condition of the truck. That truck could go for anywhere from 3k to 20k depending on those factors.
Decent Garage thanks
Question, (if someone can help) I plan on getting a first gen. For towing a converted 8.5 x 20 cargo trailer to a rv. What options are best?
The normal 1st gen mirrors won't let you see around an enclosed trailer. They just don't come out far enough. I have tow mirrors on my 3rd Gen and even with them flipped down I can see around my loaded car trailer. In my 1st gen I can't. Just something to keep in mind you might have to deal with. If you plan on driving it a lot just remember some parts will be harder to find and more expensive than a newer model.
I have a 1stgen with a 318 my starter is going out rn how would u remove a starter form under the moter or pull the header and take it off that way
You can always just take the header off and do it that way or maybe you can get to it from under the bottom off the truck
I would be shocked if the engineers designed it to have to take off the head to change the starter but I have worse. I would just change it from underneath.
Bought my first gen d350 last week! Help? Haha
Nice! I'm jealous!
@@decentgarage hey man, love your videos! Any info on the bad breaks? I changed the break pads and tighten up the drums. Any suggestions? Mines are pretty crappy.
They will never be the brakes of new trucks but a new master and booster usually goes a long ways as well
@@decentgarage thank you sir! I appreciate it. Yeah i would love some decent breaks.
so the club cab or half cab only made for one year
No, the club cab was available with a cummins in 92 and 93. It was available as a gasser earlier than that in to the late 80's.
@@decentgarage only those years were the club cabs offered with a cummins. do you think that because of that low volume would high prices be justified
How do u get the blue tags for your video?
If you are referring to the #hashtags that show up right below the video, UA-cam allows you to make 3 hashtags. To do this just add 3 hashtags somewhere in the description of the video and they will then show up how I have them. Hope this helps!
@@decentgarage awesome thank you for responding! Definitely a fan of your videos and enjoyed watching the restoration of your truck.
@@cowboyranchlife9370 no problem! Glad I could help 👍
What wheels are those?
I am pretty sure they are just American racing wheels. 16x9
Decent Garage thanks trying to find something similar for mine.
@@willwright8777 shoot I sold a set just like them a few months ago for 200 bucks!
Decent Garage dang! Yeah I have 3 sets for it right now and jut haven’t found something I like. Looking to keep it kinda old school with not much offset.
call a paintless dent repair guy for dents
Good call
If you can’t do things yourself then don’t look at a first gen
That is perfectly accurate!
This is clearly a regional video ... Im from Maine ... rust
Where does one find a rust free first gen? 😂😂
Somewhere that's not in the rust belt 🤣
have you heard about the broken cowl problem?There was a TSB from the factory in 1994 on it.Can't post a photo here www.dieseltruckresource.com/forums/1st-gen-ram-all-topics-93/cowl-cracks-238712/
Mark, great point! I have heard of this TSB and am aware of this issue. When buying a 1st gen though I would just go in to it knowing this will likely be an issue. I don't know if this would be an issue that would keep me from buying one since it is well know that it exists and there are suggested remedies. Just my thoughts.
@@decentgarage Agreed, but it is a tough repair since the plates are NLA. Got to be careful as it can affect the glass also, causing breakage.Cab flex is a problem in these trucks.Great channel by the way!
Good luck finding a rust free, Dent free ,brand new 30 year old truck!
Better get $50k ready to drop. 🤣
I have a 92 . The only rust is under the drivers door from where a step plate was. People keep trying to steal it from me. I mean like " would you take 6000 for it. Right, when new trucks are 65thousand?
They leak no matter what? F_ck that noise I’ll just finance a new truck brah 😐
Finance a new 65 thousand dollar truck. ? The payments would be equal to half my social security check.
@@ronskancke1489 I guess you should have done better in life that way you could just buy a new one instead of dealing with leaks & sh_t brah 😐
1st gens are cool but overpriced and overrated
You set your vid to monetize trying to get rich & sh_t brah