Tool links below. ☑ Attention all Drywall enthusiasts! Introducing the Drywall Academy, your ultimate online destination for mastering the art of Drywall. Whether you're a complete beginner or a seasoned professional, our comprehensive courses cater to all skill levels. At The Drywall Academy (drywallacademy.com), we believe that knowledge is the key to success. That's why we are meticulously curating a vast collection of courses, featuring hundreds of lessons, covering everything from the fundamentals to advanced Drywall business building skills, texture application, texture matching, and much more. Founded by Guy Purcella (That Kilted Guy on UA-cam) with 40 years of experience. With our easy-to-follow text and video lessons and practical demonstrations, you'll gain the confidence and expertise needed to tackle any Drywall project with ease, less frustration and a better quality job. Don't miss out on this golden opportunity to level up your Drywall skills. Join the Drywall Academy today and unlock your true potential in the world of Drywall. Visit drywallacademy.com now and embark on a journey towards mastery! 🚀 And if you are confused about which drywall tools and materials you need, pick up my Drywall Tools and Materials book on Amazon at: amzn.to/3T4eEZg Or for a signed or Spiral bound version visit www.ThatKiltedGuyStore.com Watch this Playlist called Taping & Mudding Drywall School NEXT- ua-cam.com/play/PLCrazHylAOEndyM-LGT6PtbGfIYD5uiy-.html ☑ Get my 56 page Free eBook "Understanding Drywall Tools and Materials" at www.DrywallToolsBook.info ⭐⭐ ⭐ Please Visit my sponsors below, they help me afford to put out these videos ⭐⭐⭐ ☑ DO YOU VALUE YOUR INTERNET PRIVACY? I do. You can surf anonomously with Surfshark- geni.us/getsurfshark ☑ Protect your home or business with Simplisafe, we love it- share.simplisafe.com/x/qobGJE ⭐ MY DRYWALL TRAINING BOOKS FOR SALE at www.ThatKiltedGuyStore.com ⭐ ☑ WEBSITE INFO -You can find a lot of bonus information on our website at: www.thatkiltedguy.com 🛒🛒🛒 SHOPPING LINKS 🛒🛒🛒 - - - - - - (we earn 3-5% on these sales, but these are tools I recommend thank you) - - - - - - ☑ LEVEL5 Drywall TOOLS (Financing Available) 🟢 For a 10"/12" Flat Box & Pump combo set - geni.us/FlatBoxCombo 🟢 For the entire line of Level5 Drywall Tools- geni.us/o9r9vK6 🟢 A good all around Mud pan and knife set- geni.us/ize6U 🟢 For a 4 bladed mud mixer like mine-geni.us/FsjWx 🟢 For Full sets of Automatic Taping Tools- geni.us/Adlj 🟢 24" Metal Skim coating blade (Plus other sizes) - geni.us/XFCZH ☑ Miscellaneous Drywall Tools 🟢 Radius drywall Sander, great for all- geni.us/Radiussander 🟢 Affordable Texture sprayer hopper that I USE - geni.us/Hopper 🟢 The BEST Knockdown Knife - geni.us/KDKnife 🟢 Vevor Vacuum Drywall Sander - s.vevor.com/bfQtGq 🟢 For our full drywall tools store with my suggestions- www.amazon.com/shop/thatkiltedguydiyhomeimprovement ☑ Miscellaneous Tools 🟢 The BEST SIMPLE Stud Finder I've Ever used- geni.us/FranklinStudFinder 🟢 A nice hard case for the stud finder - geni.us/FranklinCase ☑ Miscellaneous supplies 🟢 Guardz torn paper sealer. Stops Torn Brown Paper from bubbling - geni.us/Gardz DISCLAIMER : That Kilted Guy Video Productions LLC, cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. We assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result, or any obligation for future assistance. Watching the video does not form a professional relationship or constitute receiving professional advice.
I'm a 35 year veteran of drywall and plaster work! I've been using the new 40" blade love it! nothing but respect for a fellow Master! 100%🙇♂️🙏 New subscriber
Glad to see you using this tool and sharing it. I am the Mechanical Designer behind this project. I no longer work for this company though. This project was a complete PIA because each member of management wanted to throw in their 2 cents and none of them could agree. I had to constantly change the model back and forth while management theorized how they wanted their clone to look. In addition, the American Plastic Extruder that was hired, failed miserably and couldn’t get the part to stay within tolerances even though their “confidence” was there. The Chinese Extruder finally got it right after multiple attempts (about half a dozen). The End Caps were the Worst. I had to 3D print 20 different designs before we got it right. And then the Chinese plastic injection company made several errors in the process. On top of all of the plastic issues, Managment decided to change what type of stainless steel was used. I highly recommend that you hone the leading edge of the blades. This was the most important part of the process and production kept using inexperienced help to accomplish this process. This nearly always left a sub-par edge with a Burr. To be honest, the Dewalt unit is my favorite. They went above and beyond on their design. Far more than I could get authorized on this model. I would like to see a comparison with my favorite version , the Dewalt.
Well I have the level five and this one, and the level five does feel a little bit better in my hand, but this one produced basically the same results. And I’ve heard that level five and Dewalt are both the same thing, rebranded. Do you know anything about that? I may possibly compare it one day but I really don’t have a need for these tools except to demonstrate them, so I don’t want to buy too many that I just don’t need.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY the Dewalt has an aluminum extrusion and replaceable end caps as does the level 5. Home Depot has them on their website. If my memory serves me, the Dewalt blade also had a coating on them. I do not believe that I had a Level 5 For comparison. I preferred the aluminum extrusion over the plastic. But that is a personal preference. Each one will have pros and cons but will do the same job.
I felt like an amateur when I ordered a 32" skimming blade recently. I'd never seen one used in the field but I knew it could help me fake some decent mudding skills. Brand is Keezer, only paid $50, and I absolutely love it. Makes patches a breeze.
I'm new to this and have watched a lot of videos recently. The dark grey background really helps me get an idea of the of the tapered finish I should be looking for by creating a visible contrast compared to a plain white drywall. It's hard to see this in videos compared to real life. Thanks for using these colors!!
I'm so glad to see you from the last video you were explaining you were sick. You look healthy and it's a joy to what your video. I have learned so much. God bless you 🙏
Bravo Sir!! Bravo!! I have never. Ever. Seen this explained or illustrated the way you just did. Amazing job on the visual. I know what im doing and what i am looking at. But just like you said. others dont. And you just cant put it any easier than you just did!! Kuddos Sir!! Kuddos!! Bravisimo!!
I love my 40" blades! One thing though, using a knife to check the flatness can be misleading because after using a knife for a while it gets worn and isn't flat anymore. I like to use an actual straight edge. This is the best explanation I've seen of why you float out butt joints so wide.
Thank you for being a good teacher! I followed your instruction video on mudding and taping inside corners / angle. First time that it has worked out well for me. I have to admit though that I have been an auto body / collision technician for 50 years. We spread mud as we call it too. But drywall mud is a very different beast. Thanks again
I’ve painted about 10 cars in my life and yeah they’re a little different but the premises is basically the same although Bondo is a lot harder to sand. I’ll be putting a video out shortly showing my model T project car which is a street rod with a 440 Dodge motor and I’ll show the pictures of when I painted it.
I been working Sheetrock for about 25 years and I try to show everyone the right way and you are a good example no bull shit but everyone shows different might work but I always say work for me do it my way or go work somewhere else and you are good I think you should work at a college and show what you know
I found a way to get rid of those air bubbles. Hang, tape, and texture for almost 28 yrs now, new, remodel, patchwork. When you pull the mud 1 direction, you create the air pockets. Most of the time if pull perpendicular after that first layer, the bubbles will disappear, then go back to your normal finishing work. Just happened to find this when skim coating a popcorn ceiling removal years ago and have used it ever since. Give it a try if you haven't already. Hope it helps someone. I will definitely be adding the wide darbi style trowel to my tool collection
I have found that the best way to reduce the air bubbles is to hold your knife as flat as possible as you pull. What I mean is if only the last inch or so of your knife is pulled across the mud, you will get bubbles. If 3 to 5 inches of the knife is touching the mud you will get far less , if any bubbles. Hope this helps.
I thought I new pretty much about coating! But how does the old saying go? You are never to old to learn something new!!! Thanks for the video! IT'S AWESOME!!!!!!!!
Hi! Im from Hungary. I use this two handed type blade about a week ago. And it is a miracle. I have an extension for it to, so i dont need to use ladder. Great Tool.
Im a carpenter and been setting my own renovations for years. I use a hawk and can get butts looking pretty flat and we inly do level 5, no textures. We do 3 coats including tape in. Most plasterers now use automatic mitre boxes and i dont think and of them could do it by hand anymore
I started out running tools for 15 years or so but I’ve done nothing but hand finishing for the last 20 mainly because I specialize in smaller jobs and repairs. But I would still grab a full set of tools in a heartbeat on a new job and combine it with hand finishing. They’re a Huge timesaver. Thanks so much commenting. I appreciate it
I did drywall work for about 8 years in Florida from commercial to residential and patch and repair and I could've used one of those blades for several jobs. Great video ✌
Ive been doing drywall about as long as you have. When I was being taught the art of buttjoints I was told that "you're not trying to cover the tape....you're trying to hide it". That made it more easy for me to visualize the process.
the mud tips were spot on ,The box stores sell the heck out of that green mud, I always feel bad for homeowners when I see them packing that out of the store.
It's not a huge difference, but yes the blue +3 is nicer to work with. They all need water added and properly mixed... now try sanding hot mud vs green bucket... you'll pray for more of the green bucket.
great video. I consider myself more than a novice, but somewhat of a perfectionist, so butt joints have been a source of frustration for me. I just ordered that marshalltown blade with your link and I'm quite excited about using it on my current project. I just hung the drywall in my basement "spa" bathroom project, and there are only a few butt joints. I believe this tool will completely change my relationship with those joints! Thanks for sharing your experience and wisdom!!!
Hey, I sure hope it helps. I would love to know your experiences with it. Maybe I can help others with any issues you have. Just remember to keep even pressure on the blade, press firmly, but keep it leaned over and with practice, I think you'll love it. If you happen to want to send me a video of you coating one after a little practice, I would love to feature it on a future video. Thanks Jeremy!
I use a 24" knife on right/left of butt joint and you can wipe it in a pan sideways...I initially got this for the soffit in my home so it would would fill totally from bead to bead and leave no shadow from light. Nice 40" blade..I am not a finisher by trade, but just recently did a level 5 job on base and that 24 was a life saver with all the ceiling patches we had going on. Good video! I'm 35 year commercial carpenter...about 2 years of finishing skills or enough to get me thru smaller projects without losing too much money for lack of proficiency. Yes, the plus 3 is some awesome stuff when it comes to sanding or easy sand quick dry in whatever you prefer.
This is similar to my 48" extruded trowel. I don't use it often but when I do, it's a real time saver. I use it when filling wide dips. The extruded trowel is too stiff for tape joints, though. Your tool is a lot better for taping.
I bet this would really shine on large projects where 1 person coats the joint and the second uses the wide blade to feather it. I assume a 4" or 6" blade would be used by the second person to keep the blade clean and spot clean ups.
I seem to suffer from the "I notice crappy drywall finishes" syndrome. Maybe others do too? Thanks for helping the world find the cure=high quality workmanship!
It’s my goal to eventually put out at least 1 to 2 longform videos and may be a few short form videos each week for many years. And I’m starting a new channel that will divulge into woodworking, automotive, etc. Thanks Spencer
Wow, I am learning so much from your videos. I am in the process of finishing my large 3 car attached garage and have always struggled with butt joints and inside corners. Your videos are very helpful with all the little tricks and details (like bending the knife on the outer edge of a butt joint to blend in). Thanks again and keep up the great work!
god you made that look easy. Great instruction, a lot I found out by guess and test over the years. But other things, the 30 degreee angle explains why I make mistakes. Same with the wrong thickness. Thanks for explaining this. Awesome.
Not many will buy and use a tool like this unless it's their living But you can use any piece of straight metal tho get patch close and finish by hand with reg tools
Referencing a video you made a while back, about how a 6" knife become sharpened through use, just a word of warning about these skim coating blades: these bad boys become _extremely_ sharp through use. The thinner metal blade gets worn down to a much more keenly honed, razor-sharp edge. I could probably get a really close shave with my 14", it's that bad. In fact, I've sliced several nasty gashes into my fingers while cleaning them. The reason is, you have to periodically clean mud out from between the plastic abutment and the metal blade, or it can hump the blade out, which means having to pry the blade away from the plastic and getting something between the two in order to clean the tool. This is where I've sliced myself open, and it can happen faster than you can blink! One careless pass with the sponge or brush and it's a trip to the first aid kit. Frankly, it's the one thing that I have come dislike about how these otherwise fantastic tools are designed.
Hmm, thanks for the insight. But one question, who not just take the blade out if you need to clean the part under the gaurd? It comes out pretty easy. But I make sure to run my Soft cleaning brush along that area to clean up under it and haven't had that happen yet. I also never but myself, but maybe that's because I had a 6" knife in my hand when in diapers. Pretty much really. I did walk on stilts and spot nails at age 8. Thanks again, Guy
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Sadly, my blades are not removable. Mine are from Tapetec, and we picked these up when this style of blade was first coming to market, so I guess QOL options like a removable blade hadn't quite made it in yet. :( Giving these removable blade does sound like a tool well worth keeping around though!
It's definitely a blade I've never seen on jobsites. This blade could cover all sorts of drywall mistakes especially in home renovations and patchwork.
You would think the manufactures would make tapered edges on all 4 sides of the drywall sheet. It would also be nice if the skimming blade was slightly arched to allow more compound in the middle then on the edges.
Well it’s actually impossible to have recessed edges on four sides because we cut the ends off constantly. And the way I demonstrated that blade in this video it does leave more in the middle. Thanks for commenting and subscribing.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY I understand the cutting I have worked many pieces of drywall and but joints are the hardest to master I really appreciate your demo. I always listen to others on how they do things, just when you think you know enough someone shows you some easier way. Thank You
My Etsy store is now open with helpful information like e-books, printable guides, hard to find drywall supplies etc. You can check it out at- etsy.me/3dxrMRK
Thats a big! Big! Knife to keep from getting bent. I dont use anything over 10” knife. Unless i have columns that are spaced 12” between bead. Then i use a 12” knife but probly once every 10yrs. 4,6,8!&10” knives are all i use. 30+yrs
I first spread Drywall mud in 1969 at the age of eight, spotting nails off a pair of stilts. I was the same way until a few years ago but once I tried these, I would never go back. You can’t know till you try it though. And when doing wide corner bead like that, this will put it on far flatter than a knife. I didn’t think it would work on butt joints until I tried it like you see in this video and it is amazing.
25 years in. This video is great. My house looks like crap because I didn't drywall it. Everywhere I look, i want to cry. On top of a crappy job, they did knockdown on EVERYTHING and did a terrible job of that. I. Thinking I'll get a big blad and go over it all, one rook at a time. Maybe I'll stop crying every time I go home. It's seriously that bad
That was a great set up with the string. Helped me to understand. Towards the end of the video, after using the large blade and the mud had dried, there were some bubbles in the dry mud. Why does that happen and what to do if you see them once the mud has dried?
saw an old guy mop the ceiling with sheepskin roller then use piece piano steel to finish in a heritage house this was plaster carefully slaked was50 years ago i know was there mixing, doing the sponging hoarding the brown coat fast like no radio. Drywall this is fun stuff one can pick it up at the Legion if you care to some good lads there
See and I’m a hot mud guy where I might find this extremely useful is in some of the older buildings that I work in with Lath and plaster But my 18 inch trowel has done me no wrong I’d be interested in seeing someone with 35 years experience with a knife to give an opinion on using a pool trowel for finish coats I love it but it be interesting to hear a professionals perspective on it
I have a pool trowel but only use it for certain hand textures. But Drywall finishing is a lot about feel and if that feels good to you and works well then use it. And thanks for being a subscriber
Anytime I can learn something from someone other they’ve got 10 minutes of experience or 50 years of experience I’m in Are used my pool float to finish one job because I forgot everything else in my shed it was the only edge tool I had I’m so glad I did it so easily controlled I also use it for skimming I had a gentleman told me sometime ago that it’s all angles more than pressure but I’ve had no formal taping training I can’t even use the machines all by hand I think there’s more pride in hand finish
Great tips and videos! Would be nice if you can do a video on explaining all the features and benefits of the gooseneck flexible paint brush extension by Richard/Hyde. Thank you in advance! Cheers!
I was watching another drywall guys video, he added liquid dish soap to make it smoother, I don’t believe I ever seen you do something like that. Any comments?
I’ve tried that many times and don’t think it really makes any difference. But I plan on testing that soon to see if it harms the adhesion or anything. Thanks for helping me build my channel to 100,000 subscribers and beyond
That’s one reason I don’t use it much. Anytime you add any non-approved substance to drywall mud, if you ever have a major failure they won’t honor it because you caused it. Used correctly I’ve never heard of drywall mud failures although I’ve heard of sheet rock failures.
It can dis-colour the paint or as some say make your joints bleed through bc of some chemical in most soaps. It also burns your eyes when you sand, but you smell nice when your done sanding. They use to sell special soap you could put into your mud, not sure if they still do. Also heard others say to use johnsons baby shampoo. You can only use it for skim coating also. Too much soap in mud for coating can cause air bubbles
Hey my friend good to see you buddy that's a great looking float blade I like that. Thank you thank you so much. And great to see you as always from Doug
Thanks Doug. This was my first real video from my new studio since I finally got it set up the other day. Feels really good to be able to create new content again. Take care. Guy
Hey, did you see that yesterday morning my doctor told me to go to the ER because of three days of stomach pain. But I finished editing this video and got it ready for launch before I left. I found out I have minor diverticulitis, which I’ve had before but it was much worse the last time. But at least I got the video launched, LOL
No I didn't see that my friend. But I'm glad it worked out stomach pain can be a real you know what. Take care of yourself my friend please. And yes I'm glad you got the video out beforehand. Rest up and make sure you're good and thank you buddy thank you so much
I can see how this works well with a single butt joint, but when you are doing a patch, there are four butt joints and half of them go a different direction. Trying to visualize how this would work so you are tapering out in two directions without messing up one or the other.
At about 12 minutes and 30 seconds you made the comment, “this thing is on wheels and it took off on me”. The tool doesn’t actually have rollers, does it?
That contraption might have a place in the tool arsenal , but I'd probably use it once for every 100 times I mud ... I just use the 12 or 14 inch mud knife .... I'm sure It can make a nice finish , but you spend a lot of time switching tools and cleaning , that blade would have to be kept clean between every joint ..... I could see it on some 12" repair or something , but overall , that tool would stay in my garage hanging on the wall and I'd just take my same ole mud tools to work , besides all I'd have to do is use a "customized paint shield" if I wanted one of those .... and frankly , you just gave me an idea !!!!! lol
Yeah I know no Tool is going to fit everybody. I specialize in drywall repairs these days and I absolutely love it for that because it gives me a much smoother finish, with a much better profile and if I’m doing multiple repairs all I have to do is clean it off with my 6 inch knife between repairs. I did new construction for 15 years and I would love to have had this when working butt joints by hand. I also think it would be perfect to give to novices who you are having learn to coat butt joints. I think I would teach them the old-school way and have them work that until they get decent and then have them use this and it would greatly improve their efficiency. Thanks for commenting!
This one does have a handle attachment I just didn’t need it for this demonstration. I will demonstrate that in a future video. And it’s actually a really nice handle.
Have you seen that board they use in-between the stud that suck the drywall in so butt just have a fill low spot no more high spot! So I have been planning down 2 by sixes were the butt r so I have a low spot
Hawk and trowel is vastly superior. Even if you're a DIY guy like myself. Bread pan and knife is stupid once your switch, ill think you'll like it. Watch some of the Candian guys like Vancouver Caprenter and and Home Renovision. That big blade is cool though.
I can keep up with any hawk and trowel crew, health permitting. It’s not about which tool you use, it’s the skill, knowledge and techniques. But use what Feels right as that’s important.
One would think that after 35 years of drywall plastering one would know to stop putting your but joints on a stud or ceiling joist and put the join between them. Push the sheet up slitly , held up with either board off cuts that is cut to created a L or something more stable. We use fence droppers. They have holes at regular intervals and can be screwed to the joists. Back block the join. Creates a recess in the sheet between the joists, then when you tape, second and third coat your effectively filling a recess so you end up with a flat but joint level with the rest off the ceiling or wall completely eliminating any bump. I've also been drywall plasterer for 35 year and was tort this on day one. But we paint our ceilings flat. Not using a texture coat that hides a multitude off sims. And the painters use a spray gun! We all know how critical they are when it comes to a flat surface.
I know how to do it, but with repairs you have no choice and not every drywaller you’ll come across will create a recessed butt joint. I actually don’t do new construction anymore so I rarely see a butt joint, I specialize in drywall repairs.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Again I'd have to say that even doing repairs over new work it is advisable to at-least attempt to create a recessed join. Ceilings are generally easy enough to archive this without entering the ceiling space. Though the main reason for my response was that I've been watching some off these videos that others have submitted to youtube and and have noted so many even on new work put the but joint on the stud or joist. It seams to be a common thing to do. Your video describes working on a but joint that spans the hole sheet width off 1200mm or so, So you can see my understanding that you where making a example off a but join on a new installation. Unfortunately the end results are less than desirable no matter how wide you flush it out the bump is still there and under extreme light sore conditions such as a low sun streaming across the ceiling they can/do look really ugly. Like I said we don't use a texture coat here so have no real experience as to how it hides that bump under those conditions.
I can tell you that the majority of houses I’ve worked on had butt joints breaking on joist. And 99% of them don’t show when done right. And if done right, it’s only under extreme lighting that they show. But there’s always some joint like that such as a Highwall were two floors come together where there is no chance of recessing anything due to framing irregularities that can’t be solved. Sometimes you just have to float things out wide. And on the repairs I do, they never show so it works. I will admit that in our part of the country, the majority of homes are textured and not smooth. But for smooth finishes, yeah non-recess joints are not ideal. But I have done repairs on metal framing in hospitals and the smooth wall came out fine because I floated it out wide enough. You can look me up on the Internet and you will see I have nothing but five star ratings for the quality of my work. Mr Patch Drywall LLC
Then it's going to be weak at the intersection of the joint tape and the drywall paper. There's other ways I'll cover in future videos but thanks for the comment. Guy
Tool links below. ☑ Attention all Drywall enthusiasts! Introducing the Drywall Academy, your ultimate online destination for mastering the art of Drywall. Whether you're a complete beginner or a seasoned professional, our comprehensive courses cater to all skill levels.
At The Drywall Academy (drywallacademy.com), we believe that knowledge is the key to success. That's why we are meticulously curating a vast collection of courses, featuring hundreds of lessons, covering everything from the fundamentals to advanced Drywall business building skills, texture application, texture matching, and much more.
Founded by Guy Purcella (That Kilted Guy on UA-cam) with 40 years of experience. With our easy-to-follow text and video lessons and practical demonstrations, you'll gain the confidence and expertise needed to tackle any Drywall project with ease, less frustration and a better quality job.
Don't miss out on this golden opportunity to level up your Drywall skills. Join the Drywall Academy today and unlock your true potential in the world of Drywall. Visit drywallacademy.com now and embark on a journey towards mastery! 🚀
And if you are confused about which drywall tools and materials you need, pick up my Drywall
Tools and Materials book on Amazon at: amzn.to/3T4eEZg
Or for a signed or Spiral bound version visit www.ThatKiltedGuyStore.com
Watch this Playlist called Taping & Mudding Drywall School NEXT- ua-cam.com/play/PLCrazHylAOEndyM-LGT6PtbGfIYD5uiy-.html
☑ Get my 56 page Free eBook "Understanding Drywall Tools and Materials" at www.DrywallToolsBook.info
⭐⭐ ⭐ Please Visit my sponsors below, they help me afford to put out these videos ⭐⭐⭐
☑ DO YOU VALUE YOUR INTERNET PRIVACY? I do. You can surf anonomously with Surfshark- geni.us/getsurfshark
☑ Protect your home or business with Simplisafe, we love it- share.simplisafe.com/x/qobGJE
⭐ MY DRYWALL TRAINING BOOKS FOR SALE at www.ThatKiltedGuyStore.com ⭐
☑ WEBSITE INFO -You can find a lot of bonus information on our website at: www.thatkiltedguy.com
🛒🛒🛒 SHOPPING LINKS 🛒🛒🛒
- - - - - - (we earn 3-5% on these sales, but these are tools I recommend thank you) - - - - - -
☑ LEVEL5 Drywall TOOLS (Financing Available)
🟢 For a 10"/12" Flat Box & Pump combo set - geni.us/FlatBoxCombo
🟢 For the entire line of Level5 Drywall Tools- geni.us/o9r9vK6
🟢 A good all around Mud pan and knife set- geni.us/ize6U
🟢 For a 4 bladed mud mixer like mine-geni.us/FsjWx
🟢 For Full sets of Automatic Taping Tools- geni.us/Adlj
🟢 24" Metal Skim coating blade (Plus other sizes) - geni.us/XFCZH
☑ Miscellaneous Drywall Tools
🟢 Radius drywall Sander, great for all- geni.us/Radiussander
🟢 Affordable Texture sprayer hopper that I USE - geni.us/Hopper
🟢 The BEST Knockdown Knife - geni.us/KDKnife
🟢 Vevor Vacuum Drywall Sander - s.vevor.com/bfQtGq
🟢 For our full drywall tools store with my suggestions- www.amazon.com/shop/thatkiltedguydiyhomeimprovement
☑ Miscellaneous Tools
🟢 The BEST SIMPLE Stud Finder I've Ever used- geni.us/FranklinStudFinder
🟢 A nice hard case for the stud finder - geni.us/FranklinCase
☑ Miscellaneous supplies
🟢 Guardz torn paper sealer. Stops Torn Brown Paper from bubbling - geni.us/Gardz
DISCLAIMER : That Kilted Guy Video Productions LLC, cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. We assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result, or any obligation for future assistance. Watching the video does not form a professional relationship or constitute receiving professional advice.
Anybody who has tried to do this kind of work DYI, greatly appreciates these videos!!
Thanks so much for commenting. I appreciate it and, thanks for subscribing. I look forward to helping you on your future projects. Guy
I'm a 35 year veteran of drywall and plaster work! I've been using the new 40" blade love it! nothing but respect for a fellow Master! 100%🙇♂️🙏 New subscriber
Thanks so much!
nice words. I do a lot of drywall repairs at the school. many butt joints to do.I would like to get a 40 inch.
What the f is 40"???
I use my 7” and 12” for everything.
All of my knives and trowels have been relegated to masonry work
Glad to see you using this tool and sharing it. I am the Mechanical Designer behind this project. I no longer work for this company though.
This project was a complete PIA because each member of management wanted to throw in their 2 cents and none of them could agree. I had to constantly change the model back and forth while management theorized how they wanted their clone to look.
In addition, the American Plastic Extruder that was hired, failed miserably and couldn’t get the part to stay within tolerances even though their “confidence” was there. The Chinese Extruder finally got it right after multiple attempts (about half a dozen). The End Caps were the Worst. I had to 3D print 20 different designs before we got it right. And then the Chinese plastic injection company made several errors in the process. On top of all of the plastic issues, Managment decided to change what type of stainless steel was used.
I highly recommend that you hone the leading edge of the blades. This was the most important part of the process and production kept using inexperienced help to accomplish this process. This nearly always left a sub-par edge with a Burr.
To be honest, the Dewalt unit is my favorite. They went above and beyond on their design. Far more than I could get authorized on this model.
I would like to see a comparison with my favorite version , the Dewalt.
Well I have the level five and this one, and the level five does feel a little bit better in my hand, but this one produced basically the same results. And I’ve heard that level five and Dewalt are both the same thing, rebranded. Do you know anything about that?
I may possibly compare it one day but I really don’t have a need for these tools except to demonstrate them, so I don’t want to buy too many that I just don’t need.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY the Dewalt has an aluminum extrusion and replaceable end caps as does the level 5. Home Depot has them on their website. If my memory serves me, the Dewalt blade also had a coating on them. I do not believe that I had a Level 5 For comparison.
I preferred the aluminum extrusion over the plastic. But that is a personal preference. Each one will have pros and cons but will do the same job.
It si nice to see that you promote the smoothing blade we develloped 15 years ago.
Thank you for the video
Excellent demo.
I felt like an amateur when I ordered a 32" skimming blade recently. I'd never seen one used in the field but I knew it could help me fake some decent mudding skills. Brand is Keezer, only paid $50, and I absolutely love it. Makes patches a breeze.
That’s awesome! Thank you for sharing.
I have been floating walls with 12" and 14" knives for years and just recently learned about these can't wait to start using
I'm new to this and have watched a lot of videos recently. The dark grey background really helps me get an idea of the of the tapered finish I should be looking for by creating a visible contrast compared to a plain white drywall. It's hard to see this in videos compared to real life. Thanks for using these colors!!
Hey I’m trying hard to create easy to see examples and I’m glad it helped you. Thanks for subscribing
I'm so glad to see you from the last video you were explaining you were sick. You look healthy and it's a joy to what your video. I have learned so much. God bless you 🙏
Bravo Sir!! Bravo!! I have never. Ever. Seen this explained or illustrated the way you just did. Amazing job on the visual. I know what im doing and what i am looking at. But just like you said. others dont. And you just cant put it any easier than you just did!! Kuddos Sir!! Kuddos!! Bravisimo!!
Thanks, I appreciate that 😎, & Thanks for subscribing!
I love my 40" blades! One thing though, using a knife to check the flatness can be misleading because after using a knife for a while it gets worn and isn't flat anymore. I like to use an actual straight edge. This is the best explanation I've seen of why you float out butt joints so wide.
Thanks. Honestly, I would toss out any finishing knife that isn’t dead straight. I’ve got some that are 30 years old and they’re still straight.
Thank you for being a good teacher! I followed your instruction video on mudding and taping inside corners / angle. First time that it has worked out well for me. I have to admit though that I have been an auto body / collision technician for 50 years. We spread mud as we call it too. But drywall mud is a very different beast. Thanks again
I’ve painted about 10 cars in my life and yeah they’re a little different but the premises is basically the same although Bondo is a lot harder to sand. I’ll be putting a video out shortly showing my model T project car which is a street rod with a 440 Dodge motor and I’ll show the pictures of when I painted it.
I been working Sheetrock for about 25 years and I try to show everyone the right way and you are a good example no bull shit but everyone shows different might work but I always say work for me do it my way or go work somewhere else and you are good I think you should work at a college and show what you know
I found a way to get rid of those air bubbles. Hang, tape, and texture for almost 28 yrs now, new, remodel, patchwork. When you pull the mud 1 direction, you create the air pockets. Most of the time if pull perpendicular after that first layer, the bubbles will disappear, then go back to your normal finishing work. Just happened to find this when skim coating a popcorn ceiling removal years ago and have used it ever since. Give it a try if you haven't already. Hope it helps someone. I will definitely be adding the wide darbi style trowel to my tool collection
I have found that the best way to reduce the air bubbles is to hold your knife as flat as possible as you pull. What I mean is if only the last inch or so of your knife is pulled across the mud, you will get bubbles. If 3 to 5 inches of the knife is touching the mud you will get far less , if any bubbles. Hope this helps.
I thought I new pretty much about coating! But how does the old saying go? You are never to old to learn something new!!! Thanks for the video! IT'S AWESOME!!!!!!!!
Hi! Im from Hungary. I use this two handed type blade about a week ago. And it is a miracle. I have an extension for it to, so i dont need to use ladder. Great Tool.
Awesome that I'm reaching you in Hungary
Im a carpenter and been setting my own renovations for years. I use a hawk and can get butts looking pretty flat and we inly do level 5, no textures. We do 3 coats including tape in. Most plasterers now use automatic mitre boxes and i dont think and of them could do it by hand anymore
I started out running tools for 15 years or so but I’ve done nothing but hand finishing for the last 20 mainly because I specialize in smaller jobs and repairs. But I would still grab a full set of tools in a heartbeat on a new job and combine it with hand finishing. They’re a Huge timesaver. Thanks so much commenting. I appreciate it
Thank you so much for explaining the use of this blade, it makes butt joint so much easier me. I really enjoy your videos
I’ll try that large knife next time I go ahead and do some drywall which will probably be this summer in my garage thank you very much
I'm a big fan of using trowels for drywall finish. A curved trowel over the tape, once dry hit each side with a straight trowel, done.
I did drywall work for about 8 years in Florida from commercial to residential and patch and repair and I could've used one of those blades for several jobs.
Great video ✌
Greetings from Poland, I have been using this type of knife for several years, they work perfect 👍👍
Hello from Colorado, USA and thank you for subscribing.
Ive been doing drywall about as long as you have. When I was being taught the art of buttjoints I was told that "you're not trying to cover the tape....you're trying to hide it". That made it more easy for me to visualize the process.
Thank you for your support and comments.
Very well explained. Thank you for the mudding tips. Gotta share trade secrets, it's how the building industry get's ahead.
I thought of doing this years ago as a carpenter and finisher. But I never got around to doing it next job I will do it thanks
Nice, I am an avid DIY'r and have hung LOTS of GWB & this tool could have saved me HOURS of tedious work. Gonna get one now. Thanks
Thanks, glad I could help you out 😎. And thanks for subscribing!
the mud tips were spot on ,The box stores sell the heck out of that green mud, I always feel bad for homeowners when I see them packing that out of the store.
Yeah, me too.
It's not a huge difference, but yes the blue +3 is nicer to work with. They all need water added and properly mixed... now try sanding hot mud vs green bucket... you'll pray for more of the green bucket.
Ap mud is way better for tapping and texturing
Thank you!
You're welcome!
great video. I consider myself more than a novice, but somewhat of a perfectionist, so butt joints have been a source of frustration for me. I just ordered that marshalltown blade with your link and I'm quite excited about using it on my current project. I just hung the drywall in my basement "spa" bathroom project, and there are only a few butt joints. I believe this tool will completely change my relationship with those joints! Thanks for sharing your experience and wisdom!!!
Hey, I sure hope it helps. I would love to know your experiences with it. Maybe I can help others with any issues you have. Just remember to keep even pressure on the blade, press firmly, but keep it leaned over and with practice, I think you'll love it. If you happen to want to send me a video of you coating one after a little practice, I would love to feature it on a future video. Thanks Jeremy!
I use a 24" knife on right/left of butt joint and you can wipe it in a pan sideways...I initially got this for the soffit in my home so it would would fill totally from bead to bead and leave no shadow from light. Nice 40" blade..I am not a finisher by trade, but just recently did a level 5 job on base and that 24 was a life saver with all the ceiling patches we had going on. Good video! I'm 35 year commercial carpenter...about 2 years of finishing skills or enough to get me thru smaller projects without losing too much money for lack of proficiency. Yes, the plus 3 is some awesome stuff when it comes to sanding or easy sand quick dry in whatever you prefer.
Thanks and Thanks for joining our channel as a subscriber.
This is similar to my 48" extruded trowel. I don't use it often but when I do, it's a real time saver. I use it when filling wide dips. The extruded trowel is too stiff for tape joints, though. Your tool is a lot better for taping.
Great expertise, and nice chill attitude. I like your style.
Thanks. And thanks for subscribing.
Valuable information for the homeowner
I bet this would really shine on large projects where 1 person coats the joint and the second uses the wide blade to feather it. I assume a 4" or 6" blade would be used by the second person to keep the blade clean and spot clean ups.
Good idea
I seem to suffer from the "I notice crappy drywall finishes" syndrome. Maybe others do too? Thanks for helping the world find the cure=high quality workmanship!
Thanks, I appreciate that 😎, & Thanks for subscribing!
A kilted guy with a butt joint? Ow that must hurt.
Excellent! Don’t you dare quit on us! Get back to work after 2021!!! You can’t leave us.
It’s my goal to eventually put out at least 1 to 2 longform videos and may be a few short form videos each week for many years. And I’m starting a new channel that will divulge into woodworking, automotive, etc. Thanks Spencer
This video is gold....thanks maestro
Wow, I am learning so much from your videos. I am in the process of finishing my large 3 car attached garage and have always struggled with butt joints and inside corners. Your videos are very helpful with all the little tricks and details (like bending the knife on the outer edge of a butt joint to blend in). Thanks again and keep up the great work!
god you made that look easy. Great instruction, a lot I found out by guess and test over the years. But other things, the 30 degreee angle explains why I make mistakes. Same with the wrong thickness. Thanks for explaining this. Awesome.
Some drywall hangers I once used put drywall shims on the studs on either side of the but joint. When the finishers got done the seams were invisible.
We used to do that a lot, but not everyone does.
Not many will buy and use a tool like this unless it's their living
But you can use any piece of straight metal tho get patch close and finish by hand with reg tools
Thank you very much again , and have a wonderful weekend.
Thank you! You too!
Great example of how to do a video. Thank you.
Thanks, I appreciate that 😎, & Thanks for subscribing!
Referencing a video you made a while back, about how a 6" knife become sharpened through use, just a word of warning about these skim coating blades: these bad boys become _extremely_ sharp through use. The thinner metal blade gets worn down to a much more keenly honed, razor-sharp edge. I could probably get a really close shave with my 14", it's that bad. In fact, I've sliced several nasty gashes into my fingers while cleaning them. The reason is, you have to periodically clean mud out from between the plastic abutment and the metal blade, or it can hump the blade out, which means having to pry the blade away from the plastic and getting something between the two in order to clean the tool. This is where I've sliced myself open, and it can happen faster than you can blink! One careless pass with the sponge or brush and it's a trip to the first aid kit. Frankly, it's the one thing that I have come dislike about how these otherwise fantastic tools are designed.
Hmm, thanks for the insight. But one question, who not just take the blade out if you need to clean the part under the gaurd? It comes out pretty easy. But I make sure to run my Soft cleaning brush along that area to clean up under it and haven't had that happen yet. I also never but myself, but maybe that's because I had a 6" knife in my hand when in diapers. Pretty much really. I did walk on stilts and spot nails at age 8. Thanks again, Guy
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY
Sadly, my blades are not removable. Mine are from Tapetec, and we picked these up when this style of blade was first coming to market, so I guess QOL options like a removable blade hadn't quite made it in yet. :(
Giving these removable blade does sound like a tool well worth keeping around though!
Thankyou for all your drywall tips! Ive seen alot of professionals use this method. Maybe this is the way to get better but joints👍
I got some great tips from this, thank you.
Thank you for your Military service, Sir🇺🇸 God Bless❤️
Wish I saw this forty years ago!
Killin me with story time , techniques please.
I mix a little 3 with the green top all purpose and finish with just the 3
Love it.
Only problem is I still hate drywall. Lol.
I've gotten good with a 24" blade, but this makes it look a helluva lot easier
It's definitely a blade I've never seen on jobsites. This blade could cover all sorts of drywall mistakes especially in home renovations and patchwork.
Amen to that can do it but don't like to
@@jasonfisk4406 oh you need to do this on a daily basis to be good.
You would think the manufactures would make tapered edges on all 4 sides of the drywall sheet.
It would also be nice if the skimming blade was slightly arched to allow more compound
in the middle then on the edges.
Well it’s actually impossible to have recessed edges on four sides because we cut the ends off constantly. And the way I demonstrated that blade in this video it does leave more in the middle. Thanks for commenting and subscribing.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY I understand the cutting I have worked many pieces of drywall and but joints are the hardest to master I really appreciate your demo. I always listen to others on how they do things, just when you think you know enough someone shows you some easier way. Thank You
Love your dancing skills on the stilts
Thank you. Guy
We in the exterior plaster business call this scridding
You always make it look so easy! I could not find the link for the 24 grit sanding disc's...
My Etsy store is now open with helpful information like e-books, printable guides, hard to find drywall supplies etc. You can check it out at- etsy.me/3dxrMRK
Thats a big! Big! Knife to keep from getting bent. I dont use anything over 10” knife. Unless i have columns that are spaced 12” between bead. Then i use a 12” knife but probly once every 10yrs. 4,6,8!&10” knives are all i use. 30+yrs
I first spread Drywall mud in 1969 at the age of eight, spotting nails off a pair of stilts. I was the same way until a few years ago but once I tried these, I would never go back. You can’t know till you try it though. And when doing wide corner bead like that, this will put it on far flatter than a knife. I didn’t think it would work on butt joints until I tried it like you see in this video and it is amazing.
25 years in. This video is great. My house looks like crap because I didn't drywall it. Everywhere I look, i want to cry. On top of a crappy job, they did knockdown on EVERYTHING and did a terrible job of that. I. Thinking I'll get a big blad and go over it all, one rook at a time. Maybe I'll stop crying every time I go home. It's seriously that bad
That was a great set up with the string. Helped me to understand. Towards the end of the video, after using the large blade and the mud had dried, there were some bubbles in the dry mud. Why does that happen and what to do if you see them once the mud has dried?
They just happen, and we just fix them when dry
I’ve way watched many of your videos and love them all
Thanks, I appreciate that 😎, & Thanks for subscribing!
Have you done videos on Buttboard from Trim Tex? Seems like that is the way to go.
Not yet
saw an old guy mop the ceiling with sheepskin roller then use piece piano steel to finish in a heritage house this was plaster carefully slaked was50 years ago i know was there mixing, doing the sponging hoarding the brown coat fast like no radio. Drywall this is fun stuff one can pick it up at the Legion if you care to some good lads there
Thanks for the tips and all the knowledge
In Texas we use a 8 in box then a 10 or a 10 and 12 😉
Awesome info sir thank you 😊
See and I’m a hot mud guy where I might find this extremely useful is in some of the older buildings that I work in with Lath and plaster But my 18 inch trowel has done me no wrong I’d be interested in seeing someone with 35 years experience with a knife to give an opinion on using a pool trowel for finish coats I love it but it be interesting to hear a professionals perspective on it
I have a pool trowel but only use it for certain hand textures. But Drywall finishing is a lot about feel and if that feels good to you and works well then use it.
And thanks for being a subscriber
Anytime I can learn something from someone other they’ve got 10 minutes of experience or 50 years of experience I’m in
Are used my pool float to finish one job because I forgot everything else in my shed it was the only edge tool I had I’m so glad I did it so easily controlled I also use it for skimming I had a gentleman told me sometime ago that it’s all angles more than pressure but I’ve had no formal taping training I can’t even use the machines all by hand I think there’s more pride in hand finish
Great video! Looks like a great tool to invest in
Thanks for the video. I have some skim coating to do and that'll make it a lot easier for me. Lol
EXCELLENT Demonstration
What about mixing "No Pock" into the mud to get rid of bubbles? I've used it and found it makes a big difference, for me anyway.
Alot of guys use dish soap and water for that, and say it works great :)
Great tips and videos! Would be nice if you can do a video on explaining all the features and benefits of the gooseneck flexible paint brush extension by Richard/Hyde. Thank you in advance! Cheers!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
FANTASTIC VIDEO thank uuuu
I was watching another drywall guys video, he added liquid dish soap to make it smoother, I don’t believe I ever seen you do something like that. Any comments?
I’ve tried that many times and don’t think it really makes any difference. But I plan on testing that soon to see if it harms the adhesion or anything.
Thanks for helping me build my channel to 100,000 subscribers and beyond
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY I may try that method, too! Others say it voids the warranty for the mud.
That’s one reason I don’t use it much. Anytime you add any non-approved substance to drywall mud, if you ever have a major failure they won’t honor it because you caused it. Used correctly I’ve never heard of drywall mud failures although I’ve heard of sheet rock failures.
It can dis-colour the paint or as some say make your joints bleed through bc of some chemical in most soaps. It also burns your eyes when you sand, but you smell nice when your done sanding. They use to sell special soap you could put into your mud, not sure if they still do. Also heard others say to use johnsons baby shampoo. You can only use it for skim coating also. Too much soap in mud for coating can cause air bubbles
Make sure you are wearing goggles when sanding if you use soap in the mud. The dust burns like you put soap in your eyes
Hey my friend good to see you buddy that's a great looking float blade I like that. Thank you thank you so much. And great to see you as always from Doug
Thanks Doug. This was my first real video from my new studio since I finally got it set up the other day. Feels really good to be able to create new content again. Take care. Guy
I'm glad to hear that guy and I'm looking forward to many more thank you my friend thank you
Hey, did you see that yesterday morning my doctor told me to go to the ER because of three days of stomach pain. But I finished editing this video and got it ready for launch before I left. I found out I have minor diverticulitis, which I’ve had before but it was much worse the last time. But at least I got the video launched, LOL
No I didn't see that my friend. But I'm glad it worked out stomach pain can be a real you know what. Take care of yourself my friend please. And yes I'm glad you got the video out beforehand. Rest up and make sure you're good and thank you buddy thank you so much
Nice work
Awesome video
Great video, thanks buddy!
Been thinking about getting one of these. Gonna bite the bullet.
I can see how this works well with a single butt joint, but when you are doing a patch, there are four butt joints and half of them go a different direction. Trying to visualize how this would work so you are tapering out in two directions without messing up one or the other.
Watch this- ua-cam.com/video/0pazSTR2jqc/v-deo.html
Do you have videos or advice on air bubbles? Love your videos, finally only need to follow one channel. Thank you for your advice
I’ll try to do a video on that one day. Thanks
At about 12 minutes and 30 seconds you made the comment, “this thing is on wheels and it took off on me”. The tool doesn’t actually have rollers, does it?
The drywall that I’m working on is actually a 4 foot tall by 8 foot easel that I built to hold a 4‘ x 8‘ sheet of rock and yes it is on wheels.
That contraption might have a place in the tool arsenal , but I'd probably use it once for every 100 times I mud ... I just use the 12 or 14 inch mud knife .... I'm sure It can make a nice finish , but you spend a lot of time switching tools and cleaning , that blade would have to be kept clean between every joint ..... I could see it on some 12" repair or something , but overall , that tool would stay in my garage hanging on the wall and I'd just take my same ole mud tools to work , besides all I'd have to do is use a "customized paint shield" if I wanted one of those .... and frankly , you just gave me an idea !!!!! lol
Yeah I know no Tool is going to fit everybody. I specialize in drywall repairs these days and I absolutely love it for that because it gives me a much smoother finish, with a much better profile and if I’m doing multiple repairs all I have to do is clean it off with my 6 inch knife between repairs. I did new construction for 15 years and I would love to have had this when working butt joints by hand.
I also think it would be perfect to give to novices who you are having learn to coat butt joints. I think I would teach them the old-school way and have them work that until they get decent and then have them use this and it would greatly improve their efficiency.
Thanks for commenting!
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY I understand .... I think the thing needs handles on it for one "improvement"
@@shure46 other brands have handle attachment points like the Columbia Tomahawk for example.
This one does have a handle attachment I just didn’t need it for this demonstration. I will demonstrate that in a future video. And it’s actually a really nice handle.
It does have a handle, see my reply below or above or wherever it ends up
So well explained!!! Thank you!!!
Glad I could help and hope to have you as a subscriber.
When do you use a rubber skimmer? Do you have a video for that please.
Here you go- ua-cam.com/video/N2RSDsYbA7Y/v-deo.html
"This is the way!"
You're welcome for the advice 1 year ago
....😉😎👍
Have you seen that board they use in-between the stud that suck the drywall in so butt just have a fill low spot no more high spot! So I have been planning down 2 by sixes were the butt r so I have a low spot
I plan on doing some videos one day about artificially creating recessed joints from butt joints.
Thanks for the video , 👍🏻
Hawk and trowel is vastly superior. Even if you're a DIY guy like myself. Bread pan and knife is stupid once your switch, ill think you'll like it. Watch some of the Candian guys like Vancouver Caprenter and and Home Renovision. That big blade is cool though.
I can keep up with any hawk and trowel crew, health permitting. It’s not about which tool you use, it’s the skill, knowledge and techniques. But use what Feels right as that’s important.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Hey thanks for the reply. You're correct.
Thanks your a good teacher
Thanks, I appreciate that 😎, & Thanks for subscribing!
Good to know someone else is doing it too!
Yes work
This works even better if you throw a shim behind the sheets on the 2 studs just to the left and right of where the butt joint lands.
Yep. I’ve done that
What kind of shim?
It’s a cardboard shim that is about 4 feet long and they come in bundles at any big box store
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Thanks.
Thank you so much Sr!!
Putting water on top of mud in a bucket will keep it from hardening over night
Good video, thank you and good luck to you!)
EXCELLENT DEMO!!!!!!!
Thanks so much Spencer! Best wishes on your channel.
One would think that after 35 years of drywall plastering one would know to stop putting your but joints on a stud or ceiling joist and put the join between them. Push the sheet up slitly , held up with either board off cuts that is cut to created a L or something more stable. We use fence droppers. They have holes at regular intervals and can be screwed to the joists. Back block the join. Creates a recess in the sheet between the joists, then when you tape, second and third coat your effectively filling a recess so you end up with a flat but joint level with the rest off the ceiling or wall completely eliminating any bump. I've also been drywall plasterer for 35 year and was tort this on day one. But we paint our ceilings flat. Not using a texture coat that hides a multitude off sims. And the painters use a spray gun! We all know how critical they are when it comes to a flat surface.
I know how to do it, but with repairs you have no choice and not every drywaller you’ll come across will create a recessed butt joint. I actually don’t do new construction anymore so I rarely see a butt joint, I specialize in drywall repairs.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Again I'd have to say that even doing repairs over new work it is advisable to at-least attempt to create a recessed join. Ceilings are generally easy enough to archive this without entering the ceiling space. Though the main reason for my response was that I've been watching some off these videos that others have submitted to youtube and and have noted so many even on new work put the but joint on the stud or joist. It seams to be a common thing to do. Your video describes working on a but joint that spans the hole sheet width off 1200mm or so, So you can see my understanding that you where making a example off a but join on a new installation. Unfortunately the end results are less than desirable no matter how wide you flush it out the bump is still there and under extreme light sore conditions such as a low sun streaming across the ceiling they can/do look really ugly. Like I said we don't use a texture coat here so have no real experience as to how it hides that bump under those conditions.
I can tell you that the majority of houses I’ve worked on had butt joints breaking on joist. And 99% of them don’t show when done right. And if done right, it’s only under extreme lighting that they show. But there’s always some joint like that such as a Highwall were two floors come together where there is no chance of recessing anything due to framing irregularities that can’t be solved.
Sometimes you just have to float things out wide. And on the repairs I do, they never show so it works. I will admit that in our part of the country, the majority of homes are textured and not smooth.
But for smooth finishes, yeah non-recess joints are not ideal. But I have done repairs on metal framing in hospitals and the smooth wall came out fine because I floated it out wide enough.
You can look me up on the Internet and you will see I have nothing but five star ratings for the quality of my work. Mr Patch Drywall LLC
It looks like the best way to do but joints is to remove the paper at the joint. now the tape lays flat and you don't have to use that much mud.
Then it's going to be weak at the intersection of the joint tape and the drywall paper. There's other ways I'll cover in future videos but thanks for the comment. Guy