Yup my best fried had a 7-1/2 Esca for a short time Ha... I had forgot what it looked like. He didn't keep it long because it was LOUD and wasn't very fast. Thanks for jogging my memory on all these boat motors.
They do tend to make a lot of noise and vibration for the amount of go they put out. They're simple and pretty reliable, but they're more of a mower than an outboard. Thanks for watching!
I just bought a Jon Boat from an older man than myself at his garage sale. It had a 3.5hp that looks exactly like this. He said it did run 5 years ago last time he used it. It turns over and he had all the original paperwork and manual with it. Will see how it goes, a winter project for sure.
Sounds like a great project. The Eskas are not known for power amd smoothness, but they're pretty simple motors and usually can be revived to be runners. Parts are usually still available from small engine shops. Thanks for watching!
I've had a Sears early 1950's 7 1/2 HP Elgin for many years that I bought used long ago and never have used it, but also have a 1960's "Chief" (Clinton) 5HP single Cylinder I use because it's light (about 40 lbs.) since I'm up in years and the Elgin is about 80 Lbs. my question is I don't see the water exit hole from the pump on the Elgin motor, as I never ran it but only see several small holes like that from a salt shaker, I suppose those are exhaust holes above water level of course, and the usual exhaust below, but where would the used warm water from the pump exit? It's the "West Bend" made for Sears outboard, they where very popular back in the 1960's when I bought it.
The 1950s West Bend built Elgin 7.5 hp is a fine little motor. They actually weigh in at 52 lbs. Really quite light for a water cooled 7.5hp outboard. The exhaust relief holes you are describing will let out some water mist when the engine runs. The tell tale is actually a small (maybe 3/32") section intentionally left out of the outer portion of the head gasket that goes into the water jacket. It creates an intentional "leak" of cooling water that will stream out of the powerhead to show the pump.is functioning. The majority of the water flowdown the leg and exits underwater with the exhaust from.the exhaust snout. I have a few of that style Elgin. I need to get to work on them and run them in a video. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I must thank you for your detailed comment, and why does this Elgin have no "vent plug" to unscrew when filling the lower case with gear oil? Didn't most Johnson, Mercury Etc. and other higher priced outboard motors have the added vent for easier filling? I once had an old 1959 "Majestic" 7 1/2 HP. I bought new (as I recall it was a budget priced Champion, $119 I think I paid in 1959 ) I remember it did have a vent (screw to open ) for easy filling. I want to change the old gear oil in my Elgin and wonder how to easily fill it with gear oil, since no vent screw? . I've never touched or used the motor ever in over 50 years that I have it, so didn't know the actual weight, but to my old 82 year old aching spine, it feels heavy, thanks for the actual weight. As far as removing the top cover to access the plugs, it has the old style screws rather then clips, perhaps just as well?
When you mentioned the water cooled exhaust, you said it’s spraying a pretty good mist out there. What are you looking at to verify the water cooling is working? I have the same motor and before I run it too long I want to make sure the cooling is working.
There are two small holes on the back side of the exhaust leg. There should be a heavy mist coming from there when the engine is running. The water does not cool the powerhead, obviously, sine it is air cooled and the vanes on the flywheel force air over the finned powerhead. The water cooling keeps the exhaust side cool enough to keep the lower crank seal from failing due to excessive heat. Thanks for watching!
theeasybeats The Clinton air-cooled outboards are pretty similar to the air-cooled Eskas. Both have the water-cooled exhaust housing to help keep the lower crankshaft bearing and seal intact. They are pretty simple engines, but both can be kind of finicky.
Yes I had a 5 HP Clinton also, it was the brand name "Chief" I don't know if bought new at Wards as I bought it used but it was from the mid 1960's as far as I know, air cooled and had the cooler pump for the exhaust, single cylinder and a very light motor at about 35 pounds.
Hey JR! I got mine running tonight and your right about that carb on there. Can you explain the water pump exhaust please. I see the two holes on the housing where the exhaust comes out but where is the water pump impellar located if there is? Thanks
Mike Theune The water pump impeller is located on top of the lower unit. If you drop the lower unit the housing should be fastened to the top side of the gearcase. Inside that housing is the impeller. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
Is there anything to lock it in place when trying to go forward or no just bought one today and don’t know much about boat motors? I see there’s a pin to lock it in to prop it up or to put in reverse
There is the tilt pin to adjust the trim angle. The reverse lock clamos the tilt pin when the motor is rotated flato7nd for reverse. Going forward there is no lock because thrust keeps it tight against the tilt pin. It is allowed to tilt up in the event you hit a submerged object so it doesn't damage the boat and hopefully the motor either. Thanks for watching!
I have been working on mine like this one for a week and still no spark after changing the coil. next step will be changing the condenser.. I gess.. well this encourage me to see that i could work eventually!
Christian-Martin Samson Are your points clean and gapped properly? Coil, points, and condenser as long as the points are gapped for the proper static timing, and there should be spark. Are you checking the spark with a open air tester, new spark plug, old spark plug, neon inline tester?
I had a old 4 hp snowblower I swapped the coil condenser and points ... I checked the cost at my MA and PA smalls engine shop just replace all three at the 25 bux ... I went two zigzag thick for point clearence(could not find my feeler gauge lol).. Lil bit of screwing with the carb it runs fine.. think I ended up 1 turn and a Lil bit on the main ... I forget the low..
Pat Lecuyer Glad to hear you got it back up and running. 2 zig-zags thickness seems a bit close for 0.020" I'm guessing you are closer to 0.008". As long as it's running, don't mess with success though, I suppose. Especially on one of these.
Old JohnnyRude .... I was a licensed Mc mechanic for years just started working on outboards and water crafts before leaving the trade to become a union carpander. ... I love working on older small stuff you never see that at a Honda Yamaha dealer in the middle of the city lol.. I was thinking of starting my own small engine thing as my shoulders can't seem to handle Comercial drywall anymore... worked for race guys no money worked for big shops no money /management being a Lil shady at some ... small engines are fun new bikes are really just cars now but the hp out of a warranted 600 is insane
Thank for the awnser Old JohnnyRude. I have changed the condenser today but still no spark. I use a new spak plug that I put direct on the engine while a turn the whell with magnets.. The points looks in good shape. I will try to adjust the thickness of the clearence! Thanks for your help, and Pat Lecuyer also!! ;)
The float should sit level with the carb body when the carb is upside down. The high speed needle normally ends up somewhere around 1 full turn out from seated. I usually start with 1.5 turna and lean it out from there at wide open. Thanks for watching!
@@dannybullins3452 It is a Tecumseh Engines powerhead. I would take your old head gasket to a lawn mower repair shop for a replacement. They are likely the best option for sourcing a new one. Thanks for watching!
I would definitely not consider metal on metal noise normal. It is possible you may have the coil rubbing the flywheel, but something is definitely wrong I would say. Thanks for watching!
@@krat0us Pull the flywheel off and check it. If it is rubbing back it off a little. It should have about a 0.005"-0.010" air gap between coil laminations and the flywheel.
Yes, they have gear oil in the gearcase as well as a water pump impeller. The water pump is used to cool the exhaust and prevent the lower crank seal from heat damage from the hot exhaust. Thanks for watching!
Quieter? Every factory built outboard on my channel is a 2-stroke and this one is one of the noisiest ones of all. Was that supposed to be in sarcastic font?😜 Thanks for watching!
I got the carb parts from a local lawn and outdoor power equipment repair shop. I do not know the number, but if you take the carb in to a small engine shop they should be able to get the parts. It is a Tecumseh air cooled powerhead same as a lawnmower of the same era. Thanks for watching!
They have a diaphragm in them for the fuel pump...not the regular Tecumseh carb...not gravity feed. I have rebuilt dozens of Tecumseh snow blower carbs, never seen one of these.
@@outboardfixer Yes, I know the one you're talking about. I believe they still share quite a few parts. It's worth taking it to a mower shop. You may have to cut a new diaphragm out of Nitrile rubber sheet if it needs replacement. This carb had that too but still had a float bowl and the rest of the parts were the same as the gravity feed carb.
Thank You for your reply, and yes I may have to make a diaphragm. I put a Mercury connector on mine and ran it with the remote tank. It ran ok but starts a bit hard, I would like to be sure that diaphragm is not stretched a bit. Got a new coil and condenser for it. There is a screw on the back of the mag. plate just above the head with a spring on it, can't figure out WHAT that is?? It doesn't do anything except maybe ground.
Jason Dalton These should be run on 24:1 mix using air cooled 2-stroke oil same as you would use in a chainsaw or string trimmer. The TCW-3 outboard oil is formulated for lower temperatures and will not lubricate the air cooled engine as well.
Tony Perotti I got the condenser at the local power equipment and small engine shop. It's the same condenser as a Tecumseh lawn mower engine with points ignition. Thanks for watching!
Old JohnnyRude Thank you! I have a 5hp model that I had running but after it stalled (ran out of gas) it wouldn’t start after trying and trying to pullstart it. I removed the recoil apparatus and started it through the use of a power drill 😂 but I want it working properly
Tony Perotti No Problem, It may help to replace the condenser. Also, make sure the points are perfectly clean. The points should be set to 0.20" at the highest point on the cam. Make sure the magnet and the coil heels are free of rust. All those things will contribute to a good strong spark. Good luck!👍
Mine looks exactly like yours except that it is a 5HP and has a F-N shifter. Mine is a 1968 according to a serial number guide at discount-marine-parts.com. Those carbs are a pain -- I had mine working but now carb just fills up and overflows -- I haven't looked at it yet, but the usual suspects would be a stuck needle/seat or a float that no longer floats. Also, I notice all of the rivets on the bracket that surrounds the motor, so I assume that it broke and was then repaired -- same thing happened with mine, but I had a welder put it back together. Lastly, mine came with a "swiss cheese" gas tank so I had to get another one -- I notice the one in your video is nice and rusty too, so you may want to tell your buddy to keep an eye on it for leaks in the future -- even with the new tank that I got, I still coated the inside with tank sealer. Let me know if you ever come across a remote fuel tank for one of those, mine did not come with one. But, as is the case with your buddy, the motor was free so I've got no complaints.
Kevinrude Thank you for the link to the serial number guide. According to that, this motor is a 1970 model, not 1978. I will correct that in the title now that I know. I have a lot of experience with Tecumseh 4-stroke carburetors of this same era and they are nearly identical. They are a pain to keep properly adjusted and feel hokey compared to the carb on a classic OMC engine. Yes, that handle is broken and had been put back together with a steel strip and screws. It was that way when he got it and it's probably going to stay that way forevermore. The gas tank is rustier on the outside than inside, but it does have a little rust inside too. It isn't too bad and as long as it doesn't get moisture in it, it should be fine for a long time. If it rusted out, the fuel pump could likely be made serviceable again and a remote tank be used. It may work now, but I didn't try it as I was already getting a lot of hours into the repair. My first outboard was a 5hp direct drive Sears (Eska). P.O. had straight gassed it and toasted the big end of the rod. I still have part of it, but have moved on to better machinery. Still, an OK motor to throw in the boat for a backup. It beats rowing by a lot, especially in the wind.
I absolutely can not get mine to pull fuel, same exact motor. lines are cleaned, cleaned out the carb very well but no fuel is getting to the float bowl. Any idea? starts with fuel in the spark plug hole.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 on board tank I am getting fuel to the inlet on the carb but not pulling fuel from there to the float bowl or into the motor itself.
@@XtremeRacingNetwork The float valve is the needle that is opened and closed by the float inside the bowl of the carburetor. When the carb bowl fills with fuel the float will rise and close the valve by pushing the needle into the seat. If it is sticking closed, fuel cannot get into the bowl.
j'ai eu la chance d'en trouver un de 4.5 HP d'occasion pour 70 euros. Sachant que moi je suis né en 1970. Le moteur tourne encore en y mettant un carburateur de tondeuse à gazon. Mais je voudrais le retaper comme à sa fabrication car c'est du matériel fiable et durable dans le temps. Et si j'aurai besoin de la couleur originale du réservoir. Et de trouver le carburateur. Pour moi ce matériel qui a était fabriquer aux USA vaut son peson d'or
Jerry Ashlock Yes it is. It's a single cylinder, air-cooled, Tecumseh 2-stroke. It has underwater exhaust and the water pump keeps the exhaust cooled so it doesn't overheat the lower crankshaft seal and bearing.
I don't think you're going to find a "release" on an Eska if it is this style motor. There were some with plastic covers and face plates that had a release on them. I have little to no experience with those motors. Does your 4.5 look like this one?
You have to remove the recoil starter, then remove the screws that secure the top white half to the frame. Then remove the bumper strip. There’s also 4 screws holding on the lower half.
Yup my best fried had a 7-1/2
Esca for a short time Ha... I had forgot what it looked like. He didn't keep it long because it was LOUD and wasn't very fast.
Thanks for jogging my memory on all these boat motors.
They do tend to make a lot of noise and vibration for the amount of go they put out. They're simple and pretty reliable, but they're more of a mower than an outboard. Thanks for watching!
I just bought a Jon Boat from an older man than myself at his garage sale. It had a 3.5hp that looks exactly like this. He said it did run 5 years ago last time he used it. It turns over and he had all the original paperwork and manual with it. Will see how it goes, a winter project for sure.
Sounds like a great project. The Eskas are not known for power amd smoothness, but they're pretty simple motors and usually can be revived to be runners. Parts are usually still available from small engine shops. Thanks for watching!
I love the od engines you come up with
Thank you and thanks for watching!
I just got one paid 40 bux ... same as you I put new points condenser and coil .rebuilt the carb ... mine is much much less noisey.
Best outboard ever made
Benjamin ditt She's a GEM!
😂😅😂
I've had a Sears early 1950's 7 1/2 HP Elgin for many years that I bought used long ago and never have used it, but also have a 1960's "Chief" (Clinton) 5HP single Cylinder I use because it's light (about 40 lbs.) since I'm up in years and the Elgin is about 80 Lbs. my question is I don't see the water exit hole from the pump on the Elgin motor, as I never ran it but only see several small holes like that from a salt shaker, I suppose those are exhaust holes above water level of course, and the usual exhaust below, but where would the used warm water from the pump exit? It's the "West Bend" made for Sears outboard, they where very popular back in the 1960's when I bought it.
The 1950s West Bend built Elgin 7.5 hp is a fine little motor. They actually weigh in at 52 lbs. Really quite light for a water cooled 7.5hp outboard. The exhaust relief holes you are describing will let out some water mist when the engine runs. The tell tale is actually a small (maybe 3/32") section intentionally left out of the outer portion of the head gasket that goes into the water jacket. It creates an intentional "leak" of cooling water that will stream out of the powerhead to show the pump.is functioning. The majority of the water flowdown the leg and exits underwater with the exhaust from.the exhaust snout. I have a few of that style Elgin. I need to get to work on them and run them in a video. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I must thank you for your detailed comment, and why does this Elgin have no "vent plug" to unscrew when filling the lower case with gear oil? Didn't most Johnson, Mercury Etc. and other higher priced outboard motors have the added vent for easier filling? I once had an old 1959 "Majestic" 7 1/2 HP. I bought new (as I recall it was a budget priced Champion, $119 I think I paid in 1959 ) I remember it did have a vent (screw to open ) for easy filling. I want to change the old gear oil in my Elgin and wonder how to easily fill it with gear oil, since no vent screw? . I've never touched or used the motor ever in over 50 years that I have it, so didn't know the actual weight, but to my old 82 year old aching spine, it feels heavy, thanks for the actual weight. As far as removing the top cover to access the plugs, it has the old style screws rather then clips, perhaps just as well?
When you mentioned the water cooled exhaust, you said it’s spraying a pretty good mist out there. What are you looking at to verify the water cooling is working? I have the same motor and before I run it too long I want to make sure the cooling is working.
There are two small holes on the back side of the exhaust leg. There should be a heavy mist coming from there when the engine is running. The water does not cool the powerhead, obviously, sine it is air cooled and the vanes on the flywheel force air over the finned powerhead. The water cooling keeps the exhaust side cool enough to keep the lower crank seal from failing due to excessive heat. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the info!
@@andrewford3790 You're welcome. 👍
I had a Montgomery Wards 5 hp Clinton, a lot like it. It had a cooler for the exhaust, used it for a whole summer
theeasybeats The Clinton air-cooled outboards are pretty similar to the air-cooled Eskas. Both have the water-cooled exhaust housing to help keep the lower crankshaft bearing and seal intact. They are pretty simple engines, but both can be kind of finicky.
I know, ours quit 51 years ago, I realize now with what I know now I could have fixed it
Yes I had a 5 HP Clinton also, it was the brand name "Chief" I don't know if bought new at Wards as I bought it used but it was from the mid 1960's as far as I know, air cooled and had the cooler pump for the exhaust, single cylinder and a very light motor at about 35 pounds.
The carburetor leaks gas like crazy on my 3.6 any ideas on how to fix it
Hey JR! I got mine running tonight and your right about that carb on there. Can you explain the water pump exhaust please. I see the two holes on the housing where the exhaust comes out but where is the water pump impellar located if there is? Thanks
Mike Theune The water pump impeller is located on top of the lower unit. If you drop the lower unit the housing should be fastened to the top side of the gearcase. Inside that housing is the impeller. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
Thank you! Enjoy the vids
as long as it gets you to the fishing spot
More importantly: And Back too 🙂
Is there anything to lock it in place when trying to go forward or no just bought one today and don’t know much about boat motors? I see there’s a pin to lock it in to prop it up or to put in reverse
There is the tilt pin to adjust the trim angle. The reverse lock clamos the tilt pin when the motor is rotated flato7nd for reverse. Going forward there is no lock because thrust keeps it tight against the tilt pin. It is allowed to tilt up in the event you hit a submerged object so it doesn't damage the boat and hopefully the motor either. Thanks for watching!
Old JohnnyRude thanks really helpful!!!
@@danielcarr7573 You're welcome. 🙂
I have been working on mine like this one for a week and still no spark after changing the coil. next step will be changing the condenser.. I gess.. well this encourage me to see that i could work eventually!
Christian-Martin Samson Are your points clean and gapped properly? Coil, points, and condenser as long as the points are gapped for the proper static timing, and there should be spark. Are you checking the spark with a open air tester, new spark plug, old spark plug, neon inline tester?
I had a old 4 hp snowblower I swapped the coil condenser and points ... I checked the cost at my MA and PA smalls engine shop just replace all three at the 25 bux ... I went two zigzag thick for point clearence(could not find my feeler gauge lol).. Lil bit of screwing with the carb it runs fine.. think I ended up 1 turn and a Lil bit on the main ... I forget the low..
Pat Lecuyer Glad to hear you got it back up and running. 2 zig-zags thickness seems a bit close for 0.020" I'm guessing you are closer to 0.008". As long as it's running, don't mess with success though, I suppose. Especially on one of these.
Old JohnnyRude .... I was a licensed Mc mechanic for years just started working on outboards and water crafts before leaving the trade to become a union carpander. ... I love working on older small stuff you never see that at a Honda Yamaha dealer in the middle of the city lol.. I was thinking of starting my own small engine thing as my shoulders can't seem to handle Comercial drywall anymore... worked for race guys no money worked for big shops no money /management being a Lil shady at some ... small engines are fun new bikes are really just cars now but the hp out of a warranted 600 is insane
Thank for the awnser Old JohnnyRude. I have changed the condenser today but still no spark. I use a new spak plug that I put direct on the engine while a turn the whell with magnets.. The points looks in good shape. I will try to adjust the thickness of the clearence! Thanks for your help, and Pat Lecuyer also!! ;)
I am having a heck of a time adjusting this carb... any idea on float height? Or how many turns out on the main jet screw?
The float should sit level with the carb body when the carb is upside down. The high speed needle normally ends up somewhere around 1 full turn out from seated. I usually start with 1.5 turna and lean it out from there at wide open. Thanks for watching!
I have a 1971 7hp I'm in need of a head gasket can you or some1 tell me where I can find one mines a ted Williams thanks
@@dannybullins3452 It is a Tecumseh Engines powerhead. I would take your old head gasket to a lawn mower repair shop for a replacement. They are likely the best option for sourcing a new one. Thanks for watching!
Old JohnnyRude thanks for the information and your welcome
Is that a new gas cap? If so, where did you get it? Mine is shot, keeps stalling the motor
This is the original gas cap. Your vent must be blocked if it is stalling the motor. Maybe you can get that opened up again. Thanks for watching!
I have a lot of noise on the top of my 7.5 Ted Williams sounds like metal on metal is that normal I think it's a 1974
I would definitely not consider metal on metal noise normal. It is possible you may have the coil rubbing the flywheel, but something is definitely wrong I would say. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 coil on flywheel was my guess. Anything advice or just let it run ha
@@krat0us Pull the flywheel off and check it. If it is rubbing back it off a little. It should have about a 0.005"-0.010" air gap between coil laminations and the flywheel.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 thanks I will keep you posted
@@krat0us Excellent! 🙂👍
do these have any gear oil in bottom end? I have just purchased a 1976 Arro 4 with same motor.
Yes, they have gear oil in the gearcase as well as a water pump impeller. The water pump is used to cool the exhaust and prevent the lower crank seal from heat damage from the hot exhaust. Thanks for watching!
Is it quieter than a regular 2 stroke engine
Quieter? Every factory built outboard on my channel is a 2-stroke and this one is one of the noisiest ones of all. Was that supposed to be in sarcastic font?😜 Thanks for watching!
Where did you get the carb parts? Can you tell me what the carb number is? I have a 5 hp 1972....same motor basically.
I got the carb parts from a local lawn and outdoor power equipment repair shop. I do not know the number, but if you take the carb in to a small engine shop they should be able to get the parts. It is a Tecumseh air cooled powerhead same as a lawnmower of the same era. Thanks for watching!
They have a diaphragm in them for the fuel pump...not the regular Tecumseh carb...not gravity feed. I have rebuilt dozens of Tecumseh snow blower carbs, never seen one of these.
@@outboardfixer Yes, I know the one you're talking about. I believe they still share quite a few parts. It's worth taking it to a mower shop. You may have to cut a new diaphragm out of Nitrile rubber sheet if it needs replacement. This carb had that too but still had a float bowl and the rest of the parts were the same as the gravity feed carb.
Thank You for your reply, and yes I may have to make a diaphragm. I put a Mercury connector on mine and ran it with the remote tank. It ran ok but starts a bit hard, I would like to be sure that diaphragm is not stretched a bit. Got a new coil and condenser for it. There is a screw on the back of the mag. plate just above the head with a spring on it, can't figure out WHAT that is?? It doesn't do anything except maybe ground.
Was just gave a 5 hp like this. What ratio do you run and is it marine oil?
Jason Dalton These should be run on 24:1 mix using air cooled 2-stroke oil same as you would use in a chainsaw or string trimmer. The TCW-3 outboard oil is formulated for lower temperatures and will not lubricate the air cooled engine as well.
Old JohnnyRude thanks for replying.
Jason Dalton Thanks for watching!
Where did you find a condenser for it? Looking to replace mine.
Tony Perotti I got the condenser at the local power equipment and small engine shop. It's the same condenser as a Tecumseh lawn mower engine with points ignition. Thanks for watching!
Old JohnnyRude Thank you! I have a 5hp model that I had running but after it stalled (ran out of gas) it wouldn’t start after trying and trying to pullstart it. I removed the recoil apparatus and started it through the use of a power drill 😂 but I want it working properly
Tony Perotti No Problem, It may help to replace the condenser. Also, make sure the points are perfectly clean. The points should be set to 0.20" at the highest point on the cam. Make sure the magnet and the coil heels are free of rust. All those things will contribute to a good strong spark. Good luck!👍
Mine looks exactly like yours except that it is a 5HP and has a F-N shifter. Mine is a 1968 according to a serial number guide at discount-marine-parts.com.
Those carbs are a pain -- I had mine working but now carb just fills up and overflows -- I haven't looked at it yet, but the usual suspects would be a stuck needle/seat or a float that no longer floats.
Also, I notice all of the rivets on the bracket that surrounds the motor, so I assume that it broke and was then repaired -- same thing happened with mine, but I had a welder put it back together.
Lastly, mine came with a "swiss cheese" gas tank so I had to get another one -- I notice the one in your video is nice and rusty too, so you may want to tell your buddy to keep an eye on it for leaks in the future -- even with the new tank that I got, I still coated the inside with tank sealer.
Let me know if you ever come across a remote fuel tank for one of those, mine did not come with one. But, as is the case with your buddy, the motor was free so I've got no complaints.
Kevinrude Thank you for the link to the serial number guide. According to that, this motor is a 1970 model, not 1978. I will correct that in the title now that I know. I have a lot of experience with Tecumseh 4-stroke carburetors of this same era and they are nearly identical. They are a pain to keep properly adjusted and feel hokey compared to the carb on a classic OMC engine. Yes, that handle is broken and had been put back together with a steel strip and screws. It was that way when he got it and it's probably going to stay that way forevermore. The gas tank is rustier on the outside than inside, but it does have a little rust inside too. It isn't too bad and as long as it doesn't get moisture in it, it should be fine for a long time. If it rusted out, the fuel pump could likely be made serviceable again and a remote tank be used. It may work now, but I didn't try it as I was already getting a lot of hours into the repair. My first outboard was a 5hp direct drive Sears (Eska). P.O. had straight gassed it and toasted the big end of the rod. I still have part of it, but have moved on to better machinery. Still, an OK motor to throw in the boat for a backup. It beats rowing by a lot, especially in the wind.
I have a question for you
OK
I just bought one today for 5$ running
Cool! Enjoy your motor and thanks for watching!
It is what it is, but he can go fishing now anyway
kramden Right you are! And he got the motor free with the boat anyway. The former owner couldn't make it run so he threw it in the deal.
I absolutely can not get mine to pull fuel, same exact motor. lines are cleaned, cleaned out the carb very well but no fuel is getting to the float bowl. Any idea? starts with fuel in the spark plug hole.
Are you using the built in tank or a remote tank?
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 on board tank I am getting fuel to the inlet on the carb but not pulling fuel from there to the float bowl or into the motor itself.
@@XtremeRacingNetwork Have you had the carb apart? Is the float valve stuck?
Float valve? I am not sure what that is but i will google it.
@@XtremeRacingNetwork The float valve is the needle that is opened and closed by the float inside the bowl of the carburetor. When the carb bowl fills with fuel the float will rise and close the valve by pushing the needle into the seat. If it is sticking closed, fuel cannot get into the bowl.
j'ai eu la chance d'en trouver un de 4.5 HP d'occasion pour 70 euros. Sachant que moi je suis né en 1970. Le moteur tourne encore en y mettant un carburateur de tondeuse à gazon. Mais je voudrais le retaper comme à sa fabrication car c'est du matériel fiable et durable dans le temps. Et si j'aurai besoin de la couleur originale du réservoir. Et de trouver le carburateur. Pour moi ce matériel qui a était fabriquer aux USA vaut son peson d'or
air-cooled isn't it?
Jerry Ashlock Yes it is. It's a single cylinder, air-cooled, Tecumseh 2-stroke. It has underwater exhaust and the water pump keeps the exhaust cooled so it doesn't overheat the lower crankshaft seal and bearing.
how do ya take the cover off a Eska 4.5. I just can't find the release
I don't think you're going to find a "release" on an Eska if it is this style motor. There were some with plastic covers and face plates that had a release on them. I have little to no experience with those motors. Does your 4.5 look like this one?
You have to remove the recoil starter, then remove the screws that secure the top white half to the frame. Then remove the bumper strip. There’s also 4 screws holding on the lower half.
looks more like a 1970
Eddie Knox Yes, it's a 1970. I put the correct year in the title once I figured that out. Thanks for watching.
hummm
Ron Baker More of a roar than a hummm from where in was sitting.