The way I did the mod was to remove the 100k squelch variable resistor from the front of the radio (remove the nut, leave the wires attached, then keep it inside the chassis WELL INSULATED and turned to the position you intend to leave it in). Then in it's place install a 5k variable that will fit in the original squelch place and use the same knob as the original squelch knob. On the circuit board is a small variable resistor labeled VR6, that is the factory 5K VR, you will remove that VR6 and keep it in a safe place because we never throw away parts. Then you need to run 3 wires from the 5kVR you installed in front of the radio and solder them into the 3 holes left from removing VR6, and in the same order as the original small VR6. (if you can't figure out that order then you probably shouldn't be working on electronics)... If you did the mod properly, that right there will give you a variable dead key... You can stop right there if you want..... but: If you want the variable dead key to be a specific range, such as 1~ 4 watts like I have done in this video, you will need a dummy load to be accurate, and then set your new VR at 1 watt deadkey, unsolder the wires from the VR and measure the resistance from the center to the two outer tabs (write it down), then reconnect the VR and set the deadkey to 4 watts... then unsolder and again measure the resistance from the center to the two outer tabs (write it down). That will be a total of 4 resistances. Now unsolder your new VR again and get out a bunch of small resistors and have fun installing them across the tabs until you come up with the correct resistors that will give you resistance settings close to what you have written down. You will want to get pretty close to what you have written down. You will want these resistances to be when you have the new VR rotated all the way up and all the way down. If you get the resistances close, re-solder your 3 wires and test to see if you are happy with the full range of power setting. If you aren't happy, rinse and repeat. Note: I never set my variable to be able to deadkey more than the 4 watts, there is no sense stressing the stock components and then sound like doodoo and possible burning up the radio. NOW THE IMPORTANT PART !! YOU HAVE THE 2 BUTTON VERSION.... that is an 858 chip board and the AM Power is "VR8". I do not know what the resistance of VR8 is in your radio, but you should be able do the same mod to your radio, just make sure that you use a VR that is the same resistance as the VR8 you will be removing in your radio. Just to be sure, test the range of VR8 in your radio to make sure it has enough range that you can use before you go thru the trouble of removing/replacing it. Have fun
I have a mint Uniden Washington. Been Modded Now has a Gerhard Maurer Fm Board fitted Also pic chip Now radio does Low -mid - High and uk band Does zeros on ch9 And 10 kcbjump on mod button
Nice Radios, I watched some of your videos. I have several radios also, and a few Washingtons, one of them I installed the 3 digit display with a lot of uppers and lowers, and of course all the audio and power mods I normally do.
it really depends, and I do not have them memorized by location number... BUT ! if you don't want to do them all, start with all the smallest caps first, I have found that they are usually the culprits and go bad way before the others for some reason. Start around the audio chip. EDIT.... if you don't have a capcitor tester and you don't want to just start buying capacitors to pop in that radio, if you have a soldering iron and a volt meter you can take em out one at a time and test them like this... ua-cam.com/video/WReZOqEqsRg/v-deo.html
I'd love to know how you did your variable mod.
I have the two button version...
Nice work!
The way I did the mod was to remove the 100k squelch variable resistor from the front of the radio (remove the nut, leave the wires attached, then keep it inside the chassis WELL INSULATED and turned to the position you intend to leave it in). Then in it's place install a 5k variable that will fit in the original squelch place and use the same knob as the original squelch knob. On the circuit board is a small variable resistor labeled VR6, that is the factory 5K VR, you will remove that VR6 and keep it in a safe place because we never throw away parts. Then you need to run 3 wires from the 5kVR you installed in front of the radio and solder them into the 3 holes left from removing VR6, and in the same order as the original small VR6. (if you can't figure out that order then you probably shouldn't be working on electronics)... If you did the mod properly, that right there will give you a variable dead key...
You can stop right there if you want..... but:
If you want the variable dead key to be a specific range, such as 1~ 4 watts like I have done in this video, you will need a dummy load to be accurate, and then set your new VR at 1 watt deadkey, unsolder the wires from the VR and measure the resistance from the center to the two outer tabs (write it down), then reconnect the VR and set the deadkey to 4 watts... then unsolder and again measure the resistance from the center to the two outer tabs (write it down). That will be a total of 4 resistances.
Now unsolder your new VR again and get out a bunch of small resistors and have fun installing them across the tabs until you come up with the correct resistors that will give you resistance settings close to what you have written down. You will want to get pretty close to what you have written down. You will want these resistances to be when you have the new VR rotated all the way up and all the way down. If you get the resistances close, re-solder your 3 wires and test to see if you are happy with the full range of power setting. If you aren't happy, rinse and repeat.
Note: I never set my variable to be able to deadkey more than the 4 watts, there is no sense stressing the stock components and then sound like doodoo and possible burning up the radio.
NOW THE IMPORTANT PART !!
YOU HAVE THE 2 BUTTON VERSION.... that is an 858 chip board and the AM Power is "VR8". I do not know what the resistance of VR8 is in your radio, but you should be able do the same mod to your radio, just make sure that you use a VR that is the same resistance as the VR8 you will be removing in your radio.
Just to be sure, test the range of VR8 in your radio to make sure it has enough range that you can use before you go thru the trouble of removing/replacing it. Have fun
I have a mint Uniden Washington. Been Modded
Now has a Gerhard Maurer Fm Board fitted
Also pic chip
Now radio does Low -mid - High and uk band
Does zeros on ch9
And 10 kcbjump on mod button
Nice Radios, I watched some of your videos. I have several radios also, and a few Washingtons, one of them I installed the 3 digit display with a lot of uppers and lowers, and of course all the audio and power mods I normally do.
Whats mist important caps to replace?
I have one that lights up and is dead no TX or RX I was thinking the cap by 11 mhz crystle that leaks?
it really depends, and I do not have them memorized by location number... BUT ! if you don't want to do them all, start with all the smallest caps first, I have found that they are usually the culprits and go bad way before the others for some reason. Start around the audio chip. EDIT.... if you don't have a capcitor tester and you don't want to just start buying capacitors to pop in that radio, if you have a soldering iron and a volt meter you can take em out one at a time and test them like this... ua-cam.com/video/WReZOqEqsRg/v-deo.html
How much$
it's not for sale, but the digimax kit is available on the web. Here is a link to the guy
www.ebay.com/usr/circuitdomain?_trksid=p2047675.m3561.l2559
@@bigcbradio awesome 👍🏼
@@jeremyd5298 this is similar to the echo I have installed
www.ebay.com/itm/134386179962
Update.... I just ordered 2 more kits from his website, not eBay, and I got both kits and shipping all for less than $150 total.
@@bigcbradio what website?