72 Volt Dual Battery eBike Build
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- Today we add a second battery to my 72 volt ebike build using a battery combiner / battery blender. To do this, you need two batteries of the same voltage. This device then does a balanced discharge of both packs giving you more range.
eBike marketplace - ebikemarketpla...
Dual battery combiner - bicyclemotorwo...
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I reviewed your videos from the time you had the folding bike in one night until I came to this video and saw how smart you are in choosing your bikes in terms of price, durability and adjustability to the bikes. Thank you for your effort.
All of me three bikes use the same battery, so I added a battery cradle the I carry a spare battery for the longer rides because mine isn't a permanent fixture, but you did a great job you won't be getting range Anxiety any time soon 👍🏽
That's awesome. I'm planning on buying a dual motor bike and it comes with a 22.4 amp battery pack, so with 2 1000w peak motors that's not going to be much range. I plan on adding a 20amp hour rack mount battery and doing the same sort of deal. However I have to remember one important thing...Always wear socks with sandals while testing any dual battery setup for safety.
Damn! I would've taken that original battery off you! Glad you see you like your upgrades!
Hows the motor holding up? Do you think it can handle 4500w? Great job! Thanks!
Good video! I was thinking about maybe building a P51 using a 72V Powerful Lithium battery, and I wanted to know what are the 3 internal frame triangle dimensions of your P51?
Can you make an overview of your complete build with links in the description? This would help a ton of people and grow your subscribers by ten fold 😊. I would like to copy your build. Thank you.
The 🎤 microphone during the video to me was better with B. I like to hear what the motor sounds like at 20 or 25 mph to get an idea of the power output and what it sounds like. Like listening to the RPM's in a car with standard shift to know when to shift. But 🎤 A😅 microphone a would be the ideal one for communication which can be very useful while riding with a group.
You get better performance/lower voltage drop from higher wh battery, in addition to less stress on them. The batteries appear identical. The case for using them one at a time is that you can recharge one after its rested, and wait to put it back in after its rested from its charge. If ever you were going long distance and charging along the way, that is actually less total stress on the battery compared to a constant lower discharge rate in parallel.
On a bike similar to your wicked 20x4, 48v, I'm getting 5wh/km by pedaling, 30kmh average, without pedaling crazy or any real cardio. Just 150w@30kmh from motor. 35wh/mile is bad. 875w at 25mph. That is why pedal-able bike is so important for affordable range.
For speed do you recommend one 52v 21AH battery or, one 72v 14AH battery? looking to customize a p-51.
@NPL Ventures
I left this one one of ur earlier videos too where u me tinged The ekx x21 is the gunai x25(the x25 is Lower spec Ed also know as the zwp x20) I got one from AliExpress and they are amazing but the controller may needed to be upgraded to be able to use ur 2000w depending on the brand u buy from
I'm at 295 pounds and i'm really considering this build(12 mile work commute/Flat roads), do you think bike can tolerate my weight with a custom battery?
P51 charges $500 for the spare battery fyi. Nice of you to recycle a brand new battery!! Send it to me man. Wtf. Also, what twist throttle and fenders!!!!!?
Hey Bro, I have two 48 V batteries which battery connectors should I get
is 72 volts the max limit?
Question im in the process of competing a similar build if you dont mind me asking how did you rewire your lights? I see you got rid of the stock display. Do your brake lights work? Also, where did you get that frame guard in front of your battery? Thank you so much for your help, bro.
Just take the auxiliary wires from controller, run through an instrument switch cluster on handlebars and to relevant lights, indicators, horn and connect up the brake interrupt wires if you want working brake light.
bro in slides
Really surprised you just gave your old battery away? Isnt it perfectly fine? It's worth a couple hundred at least.
I’m pretty sure it’s because selling ebike parts takes a load of time online, but honestly yeah with it being a 48v bike he could have easily just sold the battery on eBay for like 200-300 minimum. It’s decent quality and with it being such a box standard non custom piece it probably could’ve sold in a week or two.
That's a bad choice of foot wear, better correct that before you pay the price...
Very nice, would you ever consider going to a qs205 or other higher rated motor?
I would like to try that especially if I can use the same controller.
@@NPLVentures does the EMP shark batteries come with a mount and charger? lmk, thanks
That controller is absolutely tiny compared to all the other 72V smart controllers. Definitely going to buy that if I ever go over to 72V
The reason it’s so small is because it’s only I think 30 something amps, most 72v controllers are 45amp or more. With the most common choice being 80amp minimum
@@kimhyunwoo8983 it's 90A+ actually. Look it up it's the grin technologies phaserunner.
Never cheap out on a controller man leave some overhead.
@@kimhyunwoo8983 The phaserunner can push 90 phase amps for decent bursts and about 40-50 continuous.
Stupid question but can you upgrade past 72 volts if you wanted too? Thanks for the good review
What it's like to drive in slippers? :) It's the first time I've seen riding an ebike in slippers. :)))
Have you thought about getting a Powerful Lithium battery?
Also just order some 12G silicone coated wire and solder your own XT60s to the correct length and is much tidier, great video though, very professional
Autism kicks in and at full charge of 84v at 30Ah your capacity is 2520Wh unless I'm mistaken
My 72 volts 15ah samsung 50s battery 25 miles range total ,3000 watts ariel rider,im planing to build a 20ah tank battery for extra range.
More range than I would ever need! Put it to the test. Have you seen the new updated wired freedom? Made me finally pull the trigger on one.
Is that the stock seat from the p51? Looks great. I run this battery blender on my 3kw wired freedom (shunt modded) so far so good.
cu acel modul se pierde franarea electrica care ma ajuta foarte mult, bineintales doar daca aveti un motor direct drive, eu as pune un comutator 1 0 2, care comut de pe un acumulator pe altu full
Where did you get that screen that desplys your v & w while riding?
Why use a blender when you can just use a simple parallel connector?
Do the lights still work with the mod?
Which cycle analyst do you have? and twist throttle? Thanks!
What's up with the non-toe covered sandals? that's worse than not wearing a helmet.
Some lighter tires would extend the range of the batteries.
Congratulations, this is a really nice build!
I like how you comment on things, you have a very interesting way of looking at things, keep up the quality videos 👍💪
Why not sell the P51 battery? Isn't it only a few months old?
bicyclemotorworks: "WARNING:
Disconnect packs from module when charging. NEVER charge while battery packs are connected in parallel."
This is true. I asked the battery company about this and they said the battery BMS handles it.
It’s using so much wattage going 24mph..
people are so scared of making arms instead of bikes
oh my god please turn the music down
If both batteries are the same voltage, you don't need the Dual Battery Discharge Converter, you just use a standard splitter, that's what i use with no issues.
They have to be exactly the same voltage, if not you get sparks?
@@coop5000 If they are both about the same voltage they should self balance. I would never hook them up that way without verifying they are close to the same voltage. The way he did it is the right, safer way though i do agree.
Way to go P72 Bro 😎
This is very cool - nice video!!
What throttle do you use?
can u go step by step how u do it
You should always charge your battery to 100% because BMS balances cells at the end of charging process! In practice BMS charges cells to ~4.2V and then try to balance them down to 4.15V.
You should do it once a while but not always. You lose a lot of battery life charging to full
@@bobikbobikowy5458 In practice it does not matter. For example I have 48V 25Ah (1200Wh) battery and I do only ~30 cycles/year. After ~500 cycles you lose ~20% of original capacity.
@@ataksnajpera you loose capacity just keeping it charged fully. I cant remember how much you loose by doing it but its bad. I got 9 years old battery and like 80.000km on it. It still works because i never charge it to full. If you make only 30 cycles/year then its even more relevant because you store it charged for longer time.
@@bobikbobikowy5458 I use my bike for commuting so it is never left at ~4.15V for long time (no more than 48 hours). You are a little paranoid about battery degradation. You know what is more dangerous? Heat generated during fast discharge! for example when you constantly use throttle at 750W+. I have mid drive motor with torque sensor and I never use throttle. I also barely need more than 300W of assistance.
@@ataksnajpera maybe im paranoid but my battery lasted longer than most branded ones. I have 3000w controller and heat didnt kill my battery :p 750w is nothing
What are the AH one each motor? Did you sell the battery it came with? if so for how much?
Ah is a capacity measurement so is for battery packs. Motors are measured in W and how many V and A you put to it
Really love your build , I may try one in a year or so . Right now I'm riding the Wired cruiser with no complaints . I would like to know where did you purchased your motor from ????? I'd really appreciate that info so I can start buying parts when I can afford them .
motor came original with the bike.
Im a paraplegic my handbike trike "two wheels in back" i built is 3 ×52v batteries. 2×bbshd 1000w, 1 750w hub . Cruise at 30mph for idk ive never been able to do a distance test. I dont like to drain my batteries or charge them 100% but it would be cool to know. Its awd
Top speed
How do you tell if your battery is not fully charged with out a gage??
I immediately ponder the small CTL box having ability to Flow proper amperage to keep the circuit balanced.
Any issues with your headlight and rear light cause aren't you bypassing the stock controller completely?
So if you move the controller around back would both batteries fit in the V? If not how about hanging under the seat, is the suspension travel too far and it would hit the fender? I think getting the battery lower would handle better.
How about putting both batteries under the horizontal bar and move the controller upside down onto the horizontal bar. Make a vented carbon fiber enclosure for the battery section with flow thru vents for the batteries and controller. Maybe the battery splitting unit possible at the very bottom where the batteries on the slanted part of the frame. 😊just a suggestion then there is a lot of room on top, possibly light cargo or backpack.
Dude that battery was worth atleast $800
its actually $400 right now!
Is this combiner regen-capable?
I have no idea
I googled the combiner model, and no regen
Big diodes inside, blocks reverse current flow, no regen
What about putting the lower battery upside down under the top tube, kinda like your friends ?
What a great solution! Really like your methods and explanation of your mods.
What kind of range have you been getting on one battery or both?
Nice build
Thanks!
@@NPLVentures bruh follow my channel! I do some of the same stuff
Nice bike shoes)))
Great job! What's the top speed?
about 45mph
How do you know that the control that comes with the bike will work with the battery mixer?
the controller doesn’t ‘know’ there are two batteries
Yeah that won't be a problem. Essentially nothing is changing except the capacity and max discharge current potential. It's still the same voltage and connection just more juice to spare.
I have two batteries, each one 48 volts 10.5 amps. If I connect them in parallel, will the control work normally, knowing that the control is 72 volts 80 amps?
If you have two of the same packs, you should just get them charged to the same level and simply parallel them together. You can skip the extra combiner entirely. If these are common port bms batteries (which is almost always the case these days) you can even just charge them while paralleled.
At least it's not one of the INSANELY overpriced DATEX combiners...
That is the cheapest battery splitter it's kind of dangerous thought you would know that
Quick question, How did you get the Threaded inserts into the frame of the bike to mount the battery?