Hi Chris! I'm almost up to date on videos for this project and enjoying every minute. Looking forward to seeing this boss of a Henry strut the boulevard.
No this is not a complete refresh episode only some highlights. We are mainly missing crankshaft polishing, piston ring gap grinding, and rear main seal. In the future I will try to go more in depth. Thanks for stopping by in the meantime ye'all.
@@xmbjams Great question! Plastigauge is used to check clearances on “fitted surfaces” namely in this case it’s bearings. Too much clearance will cause knocking, and quickly damage an engine. Too little clearance will prematurely wear out the bearing being too tight. All engines have bearing clearance specs. Plastigauge allows quick and simple measurement of those clearances.
Another great video! Extreme close-up camera works really helps us see what you're doing and why you're doing it. The plastigauge segment was the best I've seen (most UA-cam creators never get in that close). Educational and fast-paced, considering it's 49 minutes!
I ordered my air tube plugs from Autozone. It was a Dorman part number and came in a box of about 20. I think I’ve now got a lifetime supply, I only needed 2. 😂
I used kerosene to clean all my parts, and the kerosene also lubricates the metal. Alot of people forget this old trick. Maybe because I am an old mechanic
Nice job ! 3 questions: You just hand hone cylinders, right? What size pistonrings did you install? OEM, regular size, or oversize" How about bearings? Regular size? and one more: Did you replace camshaft bearings, or did not touch those ?/ Thanks, youtheman =) Eero from Florida
That should run pretty good with the timing set straight up and the storm door spring removed from the centrifugal advance. Is that the original camshaft you used? I find that using two of the 925D springs seem to give full centrifugal advance all in by 2500-2800 depending how the spring tabs are bent and it will start advancing anywhere from 900-1200 RPM also depending how the spring tabs are bent. I run the original medium and a 925D spring in my truck, it's all in around 3100 RPM.
Yes I’m running the stock OEM camshaft. So of course you can’t get too wild with the timing. Until I get it on the road I will not be sure where exactly my top end will be so yes there might be some playing around the springs and or spring tabs to suit the truck and of course how well the revs and rpm play with the gear vendors overdrive unit I installed. Much experiment to do but yes I’m hoping to have all the timing in by around 3000 RPM as that would be better for pulling and hauling tools and cars behind it. Thank you for sharing your info👍🏼
I don’t know exact numbers without a dyno, however it might remain close to stock due to the internals are all still factory. Same camshaft, cylinder heads etc. However I think it will move the max stock potential torque value from a higher RPM to a lower one for example all torque would originally come in at 3,000rpm, and now I changed it to 2000 RPM. Without a dyno it’s impossible to know figures, and you can get all nerdy with cam lift duration in conjunction with timing. Stuff that the racing guru’s would know. But in summary I will have at least more of the engines stock torque and HP available at a lower RPM. I prefer my engine to spin slower and have more “power” in this vehicle application as it’s better for pulling and hauling performance.
@@SwedeMachine yeah sounds reasonable. I have been looking myself at doing something similar to my Suzuki but being a 1300cc inline 4 there is not a lot more to get. And because Suzuki the fuel map is essentially frozen in the ECU and not easily adjusted. This is why old iron is good, adjustment for your specific needs with a screwdriver and a spanner, not a laptop and a PhD in software engineering. Looking forward to hearing the mighty 8 fire for the first time!
@@TemeraireJimny You’ll hear it running next weekend my friend. Yeah having an ECU does make tuning more on the rocket science side of things. I hear ya!
One more: Do you have to put oil in main/ crank bearing bolts, when torqueing them down? How about head bolts? Can you use old ones or not? Oil them too??, Thanks a Lot, youtheman !!! Still....
I lightly oiled all threads on both the the head bolts. The main/crank bolts I left dry. But there was residual oil on them anyways. Always consult the repair manual to verify if they need to be torqued dry or wet. On these old school engines you can absolutely use the old head bolts provided they are not stretched, damaged, crack, pitted, or if they are the Torque To Yield type (usually identified by a tapered shank in the middle of the bolt). Bless
I got a question wouldn it be cheaper more simple just to buy a crate engine instead having to to go through all the BS of doing that ? not all of us can tear down an engine like that its just better an more simple to just buy another or cheaper to buy a used one ??
It was still cheaper for me to buy a used one and refurbish it. Plus this particular motor and transmission I bought off craigslist had all the throttle brackets and motor mount brackets I needed to keep everything in an OEM form on this pick up when converting it from a 400 to 460 engine. Yes it would’ve been cheaper to keep the 400 and simply rebuilt it, but the 460 has a better supply of aftermarket parts. In addition to that this motor is a low mileage motor even though it looks like it overheated at one point. So I decided to take a gamble and refresh it and put it back in the service. We’ll see how long it lasts. Definitely is more simple to buy a crate engine that has zero hours on it. However I don’t have a receiving dock to receive a crate freight shipment of that size anyways.
Hi Chris! I'm almost up to date on videos for this project and enjoying every minute. Looking forward to seeing this boss of a Henry strut the boulevard.
Nice work!
Looks good so far! I can almost hear it running again! 😎👍 Looking forward to part 2.
No this is not a complete refresh episode only some highlights. We are mainly missing crankshaft polishing, piston ring gap grinding, and rear main seal. In the future I will try to go more in depth. Thanks for stopping by in the meantime ye'all.
For some one with not mush experience but wanting to fix cars why do you plastic gauge ? I’m I even saying it right
@@xmbjams Great question! Plastigauge is used to check clearances on “fitted surfaces” namely in this case it’s bearings. Too much clearance will cause knocking, and quickly damage an engine. Too little clearance will prematurely wear out the bearing being too tight. All engines have bearing clearance specs. Plastigauge allows quick and simple measurement of those clearances.
Another great video! Extreme close-up camera works really helps us see what you're doing and why you're doing it. The plastigauge segment was the best I've seen (most UA-cam creators never get in that close). Educational and fast-paced, considering it's 49 minutes!
👍
I ordered my air tube plugs from Autozone. It was a Dorman part number and came in a box of about 20. I think I’ve now got a lifetime supply, I only needed 2. 😂
Nice! Yeah I bet I spent way to much on mine compared to yours. Lifetime supply baby😆🤘🏼
That's Bangin' Man!! Looking forward to tuning in next week 😉😊👍
You got it!
If I ever get to rebuilding my red ford ill be getting those big piston ring clamps.
Please do!
I used kerosene to clean all my parts, and the kerosene also lubricates the metal. Alot of people forget this old trick. Maybe because I am an old mechanic
Kerosene would work. Although I’m not sure how good it would remove heavy bearing grease.
Uff-Da....
Nice job ! 3 questions: You just hand hone cylinders, right? What size pistonrings did you install? OEM, regular size, or oversize" How about bearings? Regular size? and one more: Did you replace camshaft bearings, or did not touch those ?/ Thanks, youtheman =) Eero from Florida
That should run pretty good with the timing set straight up and the storm door spring removed from the centrifugal advance. Is that the original camshaft you used? I find that using two of the 925D springs seem to give full centrifugal advance all in by 2500-2800 depending how the spring tabs are bent and it will start advancing anywhere from 900-1200 RPM also depending how the spring tabs are bent. I run the original medium and a 925D spring in my truck, it's all in around 3100 RPM.
Yes I’m running the stock OEM camshaft. So of course you can’t get too wild with the timing. Until I get it on the road I will not be sure where exactly my top end will be so yes there might be some playing around the springs and or spring tabs to suit the truck and of course how well the revs and rpm play with the gear vendors overdrive unit I installed. Much experiment to do but yes I’m hoping to have all the timing in by around 3000 RPM as that would be better for pulling and hauling tools and cars behind it. Thank you for sharing your info👍🏼
Wouldn't have been cheaper to buy a motor instead of rebuilding this one
I did buy this motor to replace the original. I gave it a refresh to guarantee plenty of good usable miles with it.
Very interesting. How much power or more importantly torque do you expect it's going to have with the adjustment of the timing curve?
I don’t know exact numbers without a dyno, however it might remain close to stock due to the internals are all still factory. Same camshaft, cylinder heads etc. However I think it will move the max stock potential torque value from a higher RPM to a lower one for example all torque would originally come in at 3,000rpm, and now I changed it to 2000 RPM. Without a dyno it’s impossible to know figures, and you can get all nerdy with cam lift duration in conjunction with timing. Stuff that the racing guru’s would know. But in summary I will have at least more of the engines stock torque and HP available at a lower RPM. I prefer my engine to spin slower and have more “power” in this vehicle application as it’s better for pulling and hauling performance.
@@SwedeMachine yeah sounds reasonable. I have been looking myself at doing something similar to my Suzuki but being a 1300cc inline 4 there is not a lot more to get. And because Suzuki the fuel map is essentially frozen in the ECU and not easily adjusted. This is why old iron is good, adjustment for your specific needs with a screwdriver and a spanner, not a laptop and a PhD in software engineering. Looking forward to hearing the mighty 8 fire for the first time!
@@TemeraireJimny You’ll hear it running next weekend my friend. Yeah having an ECU does make tuning more on the rocket science side of things. I hear ya!
One more: Do you have to put oil in main/ crank bearing bolts, when torqueing them down? How about head bolts? Can you use old ones or not? Oil them too??, Thanks a Lot, youtheman !!! Still....
I lightly oiled all threads on both the the head bolts. The main/crank bolts I left dry. But there was residual oil on them anyways. Always consult the repair manual to verify if they need to be torqued dry or wet. On these old school engines you can absolutely use the old head bolts provided they are not stretched, damaged, crack, pitted, or if they are the Torque To Yield type (usually identified by a tapered shank in the middle of the bolt). Bless
@@SwedeMachine Thanks, how about pistonring, bearing size?? Original, or oversize? And, did you replace camshaft bearings?? Thanks you, sir !
Factory standard size bearings on everything. Pistons are factory original. Camshaft bearings are still original. No worries✌🏼
@@SwedeMachine Thank You, Sir, Youtheman, Eero The Finn...from South Florida!=)
I got a question wouldn it be cheaper more simple just to buy a crate engine instead having to to go through all the BS of doing that ? not all of us can tear down an engine like that its just better an more simple to just buy another or cheaper to buy a used one ??
It was still cheaper for me to buy a used one and refurbish it. Plus this particular motor and transmission I bought off craigslist had all the throttle brackets and motor mount brackets I needed to keep everything in an OEM form on this pick up when converting it from a 400 to 460 engine. Yes it would’ve been cheaper to keep the 400 and simply rebuilt it, but the 460 has a better supply of aftermarket parts. In addition to that this motor is a low mileage motor even though it looks like it overheated at one point. So I decided to take a gamble and refresh it and put it back in the service. We’ll see how long it lasts. Definitely is more simple to buy a crate engine that has zero hours on it. However I don’t have a receiving dock to receive a crate freight shipment of that size anyways.
𝚙𝚛𝚘𝚖𝚘𝚜𝚖 😞