How to Fix Large Scratches and Gouges - DIY Golf Club Restoration
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- Опубліковано 17 кві 2021
- Here I'll show you how to repair large scratches on a golf club.
Do this at home! Follow the equipment links below to help support the channel.
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#restoration #restorationvideos #golf - Розваги
This is what UA-cam was made for. This is FASCINATING Brad!!!!! Well done.
Beautiful!!! I'm not a fan of chrome or mirror finish on stuff(cars) but golf clubs there's just something about it!!
Love your work Brad & good sense of humour 👌
Work of art! Bravo!!
Love it! Great work
Great job, club looks new man.
Sweeeet!!!!! Awesome work and supply page Brad!
Beautiful work well done 🙂
having watched so many restoration videos, my dead ass thought welding is answer to all gashes lmao. good job on restoring this beautiful blade. good video.
Great video , and a great result on that iron 👍
Really informative.
and yes your link is SPOT ON, well done!
Good! Thanks!
Someday when I’m financially stable I’m going to do this. Love these videos! Big mizuno fan
They're gorgeous irons.
Great work! Inspiring to view your work. I just got a set of Wilson Reflex that are pretty decent. Thanks to you they are going to sparkle. Thanks again.
seriously, damn good job Brad...!
Dude that is awesome!!!!!!
And I saw you fixed the blemish by the hosel ! I think the definiton of perfection has to be changed to Brad Meehan!
Awesome work!!!!!
Thank you
That’s amazing!
excellent, thank you this video
This is great. Do you sell the clubs after?
thank you brad
Thanks for watching.
Very impressive!
Thank you!
Wow, amazing
Hi Brad, can we check how does it hold up so far? Am thinking to just nickel plate brush all the irons soles to restore all the dings this way as u did but worry it doesn't hold up well thanks
nice work
Beautiful work. Let me know when you want to go crazy on my Titleist AP1's.
Sounds like you already went crazy on them. Lol. Bring it by.
Looks good
Enjoy and appreciate your DYI vids! One of the 2 ways to remove the gouge would include removing all of the plating first vs. grinding, deburring or sanding the existing chrome plating, then adding to it. You kind of did a spot repair which changed the shape somewhat since more of the head than just the gouge was copper-plated. You've probably watched the Brit on UA-cam re-chrome clubs and bumpers, etc.; that is his family business. After removing the paint, he reverses the process (the charge) to remove all of the plating before going to town with an industrial bench grinder including various mops. His motto "clean is King" makes sense, and you're doing your level best to replicate that process on a much smaller scale. He goes from tank to tank ensuring there's no contamination and that the metal won't oxidize or rust. Your clubs look great, but they'd obviously look better if all plating, and scratches, gouges, etc., was removed first. Your vids are great for the DIYer who doesn't have a shop or a couple hundred grand to open one for the occasional golf club restoration project. No scrubbers, permits, EPA checks, etc.
I love it.
Watching some of you other videos i always wondered why you sprayed water on them, and now i know. Checking to see if it was clean
Great watch 💕 ⛳
Loving your videos Brad. I have a lot of old sets I would like to refurbish. I like the idea of copper plating dings... what are your thoughts on soldering or welding to fill in dings? Is it something you have considered?
Hi, Jonathan. That is something I'd like to learn, but I haven't had the opportunity to do it. I'm learning too!
This is very interesting and did a good job but, not many amateur golfers are going to have the fluids and equipment to do this. And the pros just get a new club.
Incredible
I have a set of the TM Tour Preferred T-D irons I’m about to tackle however two of the heads have pretty serious gouges on the bottom of the face right near the heel if that makes sense. Almost looks like someone hit a big rock or something. Anyways how would I go about filling something like that or is my only option to sand it until it looks less noticeable?
Wow, love it
Thank you!
You are a magician....
Love this. Read about Ricky Fowler putting tungsten in the bottom of his wedges. I assume this is what they did to cover where they drilled it and put the pieces in. I wish I could play with my clubs like that. :)
If you want to try this, you can buy a junker from the thrift shop to play around with. That's how I got started
Came across your channel last night and absolutely love it. Out of interest I wondered what all is entailed in refurbishing golf clubs and your videos have got me now wanting to do it lol.
Thank you. It's a late-night rabbit hole kind of a channel!
I added links to all the equipment in the description to help get you started.
@@BradMeehan That's brilliant thanks. I have an old set of maxfli irons I will test it out on first. Your videos are very informative and I am actually pretty amazed by the copper filling, I never thought it would take as quickly as that.
@@daviddale6056 It's very rapid. I tried this as a "let's see what happens" and it turned out great. Also, the big takeaway is not to fret over how it looks during the process because you'll be able to polish later for great results.
pretty amazing.
Thanks!
Thanks for sharing the knowledge- hard to find such detailed explanations. Silly question here but how are you not getting shocked holding onto the club when removing the chrome?
It's very low voltage DC that it can't push enough current to hurt you. Same as when you touch both ends of a flashlight battery and don't get shocked.
Excelent!!!
Hows that club holding up so far? The plating holds up?
Just curious as to how the copper filling is holding up?
Again … great informative video! I took you nickel plating information with brighter from Caswell and it worked great. Now I see you are using to repair and I also assume can also plate other than bath way. I have the electric side and I will need the positive and negative and swabs to spread the plating material that you dip in … am I correct? I have seen this and thought it required sort of expensive electric application equipment …. But I guess not. Any information would be helpful…. Thanks again👍👍👍
The negative side will clip to your club, and the positive side will attach to your swab. The nickel ions in the solution when you dip it will transfer from the solution to the club. The plating wand is ideal, but this is a cheap hack if you have a spot repair to do.
Do you have a link for the electro cleaner?
Awesome!!! How did you do the final plating?? Thank you!
Take a look at the video that says "Home Chrome" in the thumbnail. There's a how-to for making the plating tank.
Fantastic video. Possibly an experiment but do you think a 'dot and dab' approach to electrocleaning specific spots for plating (brush or otherwise) would be successful?
Honestly, it's such quick step, I'd personally feel more comfortable doing the whole club head so I know I didn't miss anything. If it's not clean, it won't plate.
Unreal!!!
That’s awesome
It worked!
You said you a did a pretty good job.. I think you did a bloody brilliant job that 6 iron looks SPANK!
what grit did you use to sanding
Do you restore clubs for viewers? If so, I have Spaulding tpm 3 putter I would like done with the gun metal blueing.
Hey Brad can you recommend what kind of rubbing compound or whatever really you'd use to remove scratches on the club face without altering the grooves? Nothing crazy or deep just normal wear on the short irons from bunkers etc.
You'll never really get out the scratches unless you use something abrasive like sand paper. In my opinion, using the little handheld blasting gun gives a great appearance without ruining the grooves. In both cases, you may expose bare steel (on forged irons) that could corrode. If they're cast clubs, they won't rust depending on the metal they used so you can do the gun and nothing will happen to the club. I have a video showing the refacing step if you want to check it out.
Wish my MP-32's look like that......Nice...
Thank you. You can do it too!
Is nickel plating your last step for forged heads? Is chrome plating what forged usually are? Yours look amazing when done. Is rechroming more challenging?
Yes, chrome is more desirable for long term corrosion prevention and durability. It's just not DIY-friendly. Caswell plating sells a chrome kit, but it's pricey for the work I'm doing and there are a TON of safety measures that I'm just not equipped to manage. I do this for fun, so I'm not willing to invest in the time or expense of trying it. They do sell something called Copy Chrome (or Near Chrome) which is cobalt with brightener, which is more durable than nickel. I may try it.
Thanks for the video!
I had an idea of filling in the large scratch with melted lead and then smoothen them by polishing.
what's you're thought about this idea?
It could work, but it's very soft and would scratch again very easily.
@@BradMeehan think you're right.
Thanks!!!
So can we end out forged wedges to you to fix?
Would love to do something like this
Give it a shot. I'm a total idiot and even I figured it out! Easy stuff.
Do you take club orders for refurbishment?
You can do the same thing with powder cleaner from walmart iys just pumice super fine, I use it to clean silver before I do a patina on it. No beading just a smooth sheen.
Thanks for that tip.
Are you doing patinas on other metals, too? Do you make jewelry or art?
@@BradMeehan yeah I make some silver jewelry sometimes then might polish or patina it. The video is called patina basics by Tim McCreight talks about making your own different patinas different colors techniques etc
Hey Brad, do you know if this can be done with other metal solutions?
Absolutely. Check out my copper plating video. It's the same process, just different solutions and Anode.
Hey Brad, just wondering if you're using the nickel anode in your plating wand when doing the nickel strike or if its just the steel one? Gold plating services website seems to say you should use the nickel anode but then the actual bottle of Woods Nickel Strike says you can use either?
Good question. I use the nickel tip for the nickel strike and use the stainless steel tip for the electrocleaner and nickel activator. I learned most of the plating tips from Gold Plating Services videos.
@@BradMeehan thanks for the reply! I didnt want to shell out the $40 for the nickel rod so i ordered 32ft of 10mmx0.1mm nickel for $20 and am just gonna cut pieces off of that and hook an aligator clip to the end of those and wrap the other end in some type of cotton for applicating. I'll let you know how it works
@@Rockcityballs I like it. Let me know how it goes.
I wish I could actually do this 😔
You can
I’d love to see a follow up video with your final thoughts after having played a few rounds with these clubs. Let us know how well the copper and nickel has held up. Would you do it again or do anything different?
That's how it's done! I mean a fellow could planish (as a jeweler or engraver might) some base metal (steel in this case) into the groove to fill the gouge quicker, but then you'd still need the copper and nickel over the top, per usual. Copper is under pretty much every nickel or chrome finish on steel. I expect there have been no surprises-that the repair has held up as well as any other.
Now I’m going to buy all the things to do this thanks UA-cam
BTW, echoing another viewer's question, do you have a list of "tools" compiled? If not, could you produce a video of your setup? I do detail cleaning of clubs for golfers by word of mouth. I would love to move up in quality and follow your techniques. I've viewed the Brit also but think your work to be quite impressive. Thanks for the great videos and the motivation to take the next step.
You're welcome. Thanks for watching. I post all of the equipment in the descriptions, but I plan to make a full series of each step in detail. I've been in Michigan caring for my mom, so updates have been a bit delayed.
@@BradMeehan hope all is well buddy!
Do you/would you take in clubs from viewers? I have a set of Hogan Apex Pluses and a set of Mizuno MP60’s that I’d love to have restored.
No, this is just DIY stuff. There are places like the Iron Factory who do this professionally that could redo them with proper chrome plating. I'm still learning so I'd defer to a pro. Thanks for asking, though.
I fkn love golf science
I should rename my channel to "Breaking Brad" .
I have Mizuno MP 20s and I can’t wait until they get old and rusted so I can bring them back to life
Lol! Check back in 30 years!
Hi Brad, for the brush plating are u using the same electroplating solution?
Yes. Same solution.
@@BradMeehan the nickel strike purpose is to re activate electroless nickel? For the bath electroplating do u need to nickel strike it? Thanks for the reply
@@anonymous1aoLang Yes. If you don't activate the nickel, the 'new' nickel won't bond to it properly.
@@BradMeehan thanks Brad for so much info 👍🙏🙏
Have you ever tried silver solder ?
I did, but I could get it to bond to the club. What's the secret?
Can you do the nickel plating the same way you did the copper? I have a set of Rbladez that have light browning on the face. I wanted to do a light sanding and cleaning of the grooves. Then wipe nickel plating on and finish it with the blasting like in your other video. I dont want to dip it in a tank because of the logo on the back. Whats you opinion on that?
I know you said at the end of your video, you said you would've blasted it then dipped it. I didn't know if you could spot plate with the nickel.
@@zackfeathers7483 For sure. It's the same process with nickel (or gold, or silver, etc). Look up 'brush plating' videos and you'll see a few examples of doing the nickel in the same way i did the copper. I'd just make sure you keep the wand moving so you're not doing heavy deposits/burning like i did when i was trying to fill the hole.
Thanks Brad! I'll give it a go. BTW I enjoy all of your videos. Keep them coming.
Hey Brad, what type/brand of copper solution did you use for this project? And what type of brush anode (steel or nickel) did you use to brush on the copper?
In future videos, is it possible for you to mention the voltage and current you're using as you move through each step?
I made the copper from root killer (which is copper crystals). Check out the video I have from maybe a year ago about making a copper tank.
Sure thing. I generally put it into the comments or I show it on screen. I'll add that to my list to update descriptions with the details for you all.
@@BradMeehan thanks Brad! One other related question: When you copper plate using the brush method to fix a gouge like this, what anode are you connecting to the brush pen applicator?
@@firsttimedad7233 I believe I used the nickel anode, but that might be wrong. I believe the copper should have used the stainless anode. I took a screenshot of the right anodes to use for which solution. I'll try to find that for you.
@@BradMeehan Thank you, I really appreciate the engagement. I'm going to try the root killer method this weekend.
Where do you buy that wand you used on the copper plating??
Hi Luke. I got mine on ebay but they're on Amazon as well. There should be a link in the description. Otherwise look for "brush plating wand".
Hi Brad, Sorry for commenting on the old video! Just curious as i was looking a nickel brush plating kits... Why couldnt you just brush plate all your clubs? i.e. just as you did for the copper but using nickel plating solution on the whole club? the hassle of setting up the tank and still only being able to do one at a time seems an effort to me. Interested to hear your thoughts. Respect from scotland btw!
You certainly can. It will just take longer, but you will deposit nickel. And don't worry if it doesn't look shiny at first. If there is nickel there, you can polish it lightly and it will gleam.
@@BradMeehan brilliant- thanks Brad. Yes I did read nickel takes a while. Will see how I get on, I will have most of the basic kit to convert into a tank plating system if needs be. Think I have found a new hobby 👍👍 Final question- it’s not really possible for me to warrant buying a media blaster for the groove section on the face- what would be a good alternative? Rough sandpaper? Darker type of nickel solution? Thanks again 🤝
Hey Brad, how long did it take you to build up enough copper to fill that gouge?
I'll bet I did it for 30 minutes or more. You can be sloppy with it since you're just trying to build it up, then polish smooth when it's done.
Thanks Brad!
Is there a way you can do the face of the club by using a grinding wheel?
It's really too aggressive for this. It would throw sparks. You just have to remove the grading wheel and slide on the polishing wheel.
How much did all that stuff cost
What sorcery !!!
Mind blown
Thank you. It was a total hack, but it worked really well!
@@BradMeehan I have a mp-18 8 iron with a identical gouge 😤
@MarineMechanic you got this.
Also, just watched your arm wrestling video! That's cool.
@@BradMeehan thanks Brad!
I have an odd question...I'm wanting to fill in the stamped numbers on the sole of my irons and then re-stamp them...do you think it could be done using the same process you used to fill in the groove on this iron...or do you have a better idea? Anybody with a good solution I'm all ears!!!
Someone below said "Just TIG weld it." Of course, I have no idea how to weld, but if you do that may be something to look into.
Can I send my irons head to your shop?
Hey Brad can nickle strike be used on top of nickle plating. O have a set of mizuno irons that are very pitted. Just wondering if I could use the nickle strike.
We're they pitted before you plated them or as a result of plating?
@@BradMeehan they were pitted before plating.
@@manuelgarza969 in your photo, it looks like the chrome is pitted so you'd have to rove that first, then polish.
You can use nickel strike on existing nickel, but the activation step will prep the existing nickel to take on more nickel. I would do both: nickel strike for the bare spots of steel, activator for the remaining nickel, then plate.
@@BradMeehan the chrome is off their polished already. I was wondering if the nickle strike and the brush on copper like the way you did that club would work to fill in the pitted areas.
@@manuelgarza969 oh. For sure. Just nickel strike it, then brush the copper. Don't worry about burning or appearance of the copper. It'll flatten and buff then you can plate it.
Two questions.
1. Why did the nickel strike turn it a yellow copper color? Being nickel I figured it would be that silver color?
2. In the small nickel plating cup you use how long do you normally leave a club head in?
I'm not sure that nickel strike is the same make-up as the bright nickel we use. Regular nickel has a yellowish tinge to it, which is different than bright nickel.
Overall, I let mine sit for 2 hours or more because I want the plating layer thick. You could go less and still get some plating, but it's minimal. I would recommend a small cup, but something you can distance your club head from the anode to avoid burning and pitting.
How long and at what voltage did you set your nickel bath?
What plating solution do you use (if you don't mind sharing)?
I bought the caswell bright nickel solution. It came the nickel crystals and the brightener. I bought the gallon size. Take a look at my video where I made the nickel tank and I show the actual kit.
@@BradMeehan thanks! I tried making a home brew nickel plating but I need brightener. I'll buy the kit.
I just added links to all of the plating equipment in the description. Hope that helps.
How long does this take and how much do you charge for an iron like this?
Hi, Ryan. Just doing DIY stuff for now.
i need to fix large scratcher and gouges, where can i find out where some of these shops are in texas?
You can ssk a welding shop to MIG weld the affected area, then you can file/sand it down.
Alchemy!
Can you do this to AP2s?
Yes sir. They are forged and chrome plated, so you could do this. On the non-plated surfaces, you can get away with just polishing. No need to plate them.
1. how long does it take to plate the copper enough to fill in that big scratch?
2. is there a reason why you use copper plating to fill in the scratch,? (even though it needs extra work like nickel strike proccess)
is there a advantage?(such as plating speed etc.)
I don't know how to weld, but real club makers say large chips can be brazed or welded. I use the copper because it plated fast and you can polish it easily since it's so soft. The downside is that is IS soft, so I can imagine not as durable as a weld.
@@BradMeehan never though of welding,,!
Thanks for the expalnation :)
@@youngkwangkim24 you're welcome.
@@BradMeehan one more thing! when you brush plate, where is the anode?
@@youngkwangkim24 The brush plating wand has a metsl nickel tip under the white cloth cover. There's also a stainless steel tip when you are using it for electrocleaning. You can see it in the photo on the Amazon link on my store. That straight metal piece sticking out is exchangeable with different tips.
JB Weld
I noticed a couple of days ago that all the tools you use were listed below, like what and where to buy and now that list is gone. Is there any way to view this list again?
There's a link in the description to a storefront I created for all the products.
Let me know if that worked for you. I just made it yesterday.
WOULD YOU REBUILD FACE GROOVES THE SAME WAY?
You would use a groove sharpening tool. Check out the links in the description to see what it looks like.
Crap. Now I need more clubs. I'm guilty of hoarding up a bunch of 70's and 80's classics and most of them could use a little bit of work. Two sets are super clean (one has been buffed for sure), but have lots of "history" on them. Bag chatter is what I hate most. I enjoy renewing old tools and clubs too-THANKS!
Some of the subscribers are to the point where they have to hide clubs from their wives because they keep buying more!
@@BradMeehan No such "limiter" here. This might be dangerous!😁
Was hoping you would reply with the below question
Done!
Do you do this as just a hobby or do you do this as a job?
It's just a hobby to teach people how to do it at home.
What kind of electric cleaner do you use
It's called Krohn's Electro Cleaner (or Electrocleaner). I got it on Amazon:
amzn.to/36tUheG
@@BradMeehan thanks
Do you know how to get scratches and nicks out of golf balls if so can you tell m how
Brad, theoretically could you strip a wedge to bare metal and install an “underlayment”’ of copper on the face, and then re-chrome?
I would assume that after the copper is placed on the face; the face would have to be re-grooved before the re-chrome?
Some of the softest feeling Japanese wedges of old (Maruman, Sonartec, etc) were stainless over copper faces and they all had an unreal soft feeling…..I worked for EV at the original Snake Eyes company in Ponte Vedra, Florida. The MB-1 “Forged by Smith and Wesson” irons used this copper underlayment, but we weren’t privy to the process.
What say you, sir? Is this possible?
Definitely have that buttery feel like the Mizuno "Layers of Feel" (which is copper, nickel, chrome). But, you'd have to do a nickel 'strike' layer THEN the copper layer. The copper won't bond to the bare steel so it needs something to bite into. I have a product I use called Wood's Nickel Strike, but since I made that nickel bath, it's just as easy to drop it in there for 40 minutes or so to give it a bit of nickel without having to rub it with the brush wand (lazy is best). I'd almost repair the grooves first so you don't risk chipping or flaking the copper with thr sharp groove tool. The copper is so thin i doubt you'd lose much bite. But, I'm just DIY tinkering so I'm sure there's better ways to do it.
@@BradMeehan awesome and thanks for taking the time to reply. Perhaps that could be the subject of a future video???? I’ll gladly send you a wedge to make a video with if you’ll send it back to me to review on my Facebook forum (Forged Golf Appreciation). We’ve got thousands of members that would eat this stuff up!!
Necesito arreglar unos palos, como los puedo contactar?
Este canal es para aprender a hacerlo uno mismo en casa. ¡Gracias!