@Dave Mclean CRC makes a spray that I believe is just called "corrosion inhibitor". It's in a green can. I watched a lot of videos on rust prevention and this one came on top.
Hey Brad, I know it's been a while since you made this video but that's kind of perfect how has the paint held up after play and being in the bag if it is still in the bag?
Mr. Meehan, as a mere 68 year old, part time golf club repair person, I can only say that when I grow up, I want to be just like you. Your work is a master class in fabrication and renovation. Exquisite!
Dear Bard, every of your video are amazing. This one is astonishing! You really are a master in club restoration. Most appreciated is how educative your video are. No blabla (like most if not all video about golf and equipment), process and results only. Definitely a master!
@BradMeehan hello, I'm interested in doing this but I don't understand the products and the mix as well as where you are applying them in sections 1 :45 onwards in the video. The rustoleum and the red and white paint?
Just the video I needed to see, thanks Brad! I recently snagged a Cleveland Launcher 460 from the thrift and I plan to repaint it along with a Titleist 975D that I was also restoring. I had tried painting the 975D but made some mistakes and needed to redo the whole process. This video will ensure I do better job once it warms up and I can paint them!
Love the content,not trying to knock you down.you and a few others actually got me started in this hobby...but my exact same experience with a tm r11s i painted black is that the spray max 2k clear needs to cure under a infrared light...or it never fully cures and makes the finish softish and very easy to chip or ding...also a light water sanding around the taped edges before clear coat ,eliminates that paint lift when pulling the tape off..just my findings. i will experiment with powder coats..
I really enjoy the channel content! Learn something new or see a detail I previously missed with each video! It’s a great training resource! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and inspiring me!
Amazing job. You've turned and old, filthy Big Bertha into a Miss America. Congratulations! Your channel is my favorite stop from now on. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
The sole plate looks awesome! Did you have to somehow smooth down or sand the edges where the new paint met unfinished metal. I was expecting you to remove the shaft but understand why you wouldn't. Great stuff.
I'm very impressed. The tape line around the face is impossible to me. I remember from restoring persimmons back in the day. You definitely added value to the club. The best part is the shine you got with that freaking rattle can paint. I'm going to buy that clearcoat and try it on my Taylor 200s.
The 2K clear coat is really the secret to it all. Once it cures, it's super durable. I've been using LimeLine fine line vinyl tape for the tight curves and it works great. Check out my latest video where I paint the club like a lowrider and you'll see some pretty nice curves I got from that tape.
That Spray Max 2k clear coat is great stuff. I painted my pressure washer candy blue with metal flake and used a Spray Max can to clear it. It still looks awesome after 10 years.
@@schreinertx6315 it's great! I have to make sure I have a few projects ready to go so I can take advantage of the whole can without wasting it. It's gold!
Well done good craftsmanship very nice paint job and I am a professional painter. How would you go about restoring the Chevron mark for the center of the club?
Mas excellente! And also, with inspiration from here, I did the gold paint infill on a Wright & Ditson (St. Andrews) wood recently, my first ever. It looks amazing. I just happened to have some gold paint and a tiny brush in my shop "inventory". The most tedious part was cleaning the crud off the paint that was put on there--100 years ago. I used a watchmakers set of tweezers. I've gone fully bonkers apparently and am now rebuilding original hickory clubs for the pursuit of "old timey" golf.
That's great. It's such a rewarding hobby. Coincidentally, I just bought my first set of watchmakers tweezers and screwdrivers to mess with some vintage watches.
I just did this to my mini driver that got dented when my bag fell off the cart in the parking lot.I even filled and primed a tiny dent and it looks perfect!All about prep and taping meticulously..
Your videos have inspired me to tinker around with my old clubs before ditching them for something new! Just took the white paint off the crown of my TaylorMade R11 hybrid and looking to paint it black
So it took me forever to do this (this thing called life got in the way haha), but I’m satisfied with how it turned out! For the longest time I had the paint off the crown and just rocked the bare metal look. Decided to complete it today as I’m getting hooked on clubmaking. Should have sanded the crown with finer grit before spray painting. I thought I also had leftover clear coat, but I couldn’t find it. Oh well
Most of my huge screw ups were due to me overdoing it with power tools, so i had to back off. I get too carried away with zero ability to control it. Plus, it's very therapeutic for me to shut off the phone, listen to some vinyl records, and zone out for a bit while sanding.
Hey Brad, currently trying to do something special for a friend and customize a new hybrid for him. Basically just adding a few stripes on the club head to make it look really cool and unique. Have you ever tried anything like that? Any tips?
@Jacob_Champlin sweet. Just make sure to scuff the existing paint or powder coating really well. Then do multiple light coats of the stripe color first. Let it dry for at least a day. Then mask a few stripes with vinyl tape and paint over it with the other color. Let that dry and SLOWLY peel the tape to reveal the stripes under it. Then, use the 2K clear coat over all of that like in the video. There are links in the description to the tape and paint. If you F up, you can just re-scuff it and start over. Don't sweat making mistakes. It's all fixable. Also, practice on a junk club to give you confidence.
29 днів тому
A friend of mine painted his 3 wood but he put a hair dryer on it as the paint dried and it did something to the paint to keep it from chipping. He's used that club for 4 years and it hasn't chipped yet. It's kind of like when you powder coat an object.
I wanted to take advantage of the adhesion between the existing paint so I could paint over it versus trying to establish a new bond between the titanium and primer.
Your video has inspired me to refinish my Cleveland 3 hybrid. One question, you went to the pains to strip much of the paint of the club but yet quite a bit remained on the top. Why not remove it all to have a clean slate?
Mostly laziness. My reasoning was that it already had a strong bond to the metal, so if I scuffed and smoothed it I could achieve a good finish and still have good adherence. I do the same with the irons; that is, i leave any remaining nickel on the club because that's just less nickel I have to lay back onto tit.
Brad, thanks for doing this video. I refurbished my 3 hybrid and it came out really nice. I may tackle my old Cobra 3 wood next. You demystified the entire process which made it so easy and rewarding. I hope other guys are equally inspired.
Hey Brad, my hybrid came out really well but despite using a head cover after every shot, I’m seeing ding in the finish. I think I used the wrong clear coat. So I’m going to refinish it along with another club during Christmas. Do i need to resand the club or can I just strip it and respray?
Brad, I decided to tackle two other clubs and to redo my hybrid this weekend. I followed your directions to a tee and the results are fantastic! Many thanks for sharing how we can do this in our own garages. I can’t wait to show off my “new” clubs to the boys at my course. Happy New Year!
120 and done. If it looks too aggressive, then you can go up another grit to 400 to tame it, but I'd still start with 120. You're just trying to make uniform looking lines rather than remove metal, so there's no need to overdo it.
@BradMeehan cool thanks. I'm experimenting with a little restoration on some cheap clubs just for fun. Worse case I'm out some time and 20 bucks 🤷♂️. I didn't wanna break or wrecks something good.
@jrseitz21 This is the best approach - i practice on a junker, ruin it, try again, ruin it, try again, perfection. Also, that 2K clear coat has about a 2 day lifespan after you mix the two parts.
@thebloodyshambles I need to work on that. The advice is to sand it down and cut/polish it. Someone commented here in this video with how to do it properly. I need practice.
@@BradMeehan thanks for replying, man I am hooked on your videos been watching for two hours now! Just amazing work! I am about to do my first project, a 1,3,5 persimmon wood set RAM about 1983. Gotta start somewhere, this gives me tons of inspiration. I wasn't sure whether to remove heads or not, woods look a little more tricky to remove.
Hi Brad. Love your videos. I just did this with an old MacGregor Driver. Could help but think during the process if I should be lightly sanding (like a very light wet sand) between coats of paint for better application of the next coat??? I didnt sand, but I did the tack cloth between coats, and seems to have worked out just fine.... but would like to know what you think....
Yessir. Even easier, ask around if any of your friends or wives has a Cricut. They're really popular for crafts. I used one in my latest video to cut vinyl and do that exact thing. There's a link in the description to my equipment page if you want to see what it looks like.
I have a pretty similar driver: 2000 Callaway Big Bertha Hawkeye VFT Prototype (rule-conforming). Looks just as stunning as that one. Hits amazingly well, too.
Thank you. Yes! That worked great on the shaft restoration video i did to help lubricate the steel wool, too. There are so many great uses for that stuff!
Make sure you have a few items to clear coat using that 2 part with the red cap. Once you mix it it has a pretty short shelf life and will harden up in the can. At 25-30.00 a can you don't want to toss it with lots of paint left over. And pull the tape off not long after painting. Otherwise it will pull paint along with it as it dries.
Does the 2k clear cure to a harder finish...the regular rustoleum clear stays kinda soft even after a couple days...I scratch it off with my thumb nail cleaning off acrylic paint fill
I did something like this on a full set of woods that I used for a while then passed on to my daughter since the gapping between them was really better for her. I repainted in pink. The mistake I made, I think, is that I used your basic Krylon primer, paint, and clear coat, and while they turned out quite pretty to look at, they chip easily. Does the etching primer, automotive paint, and two part clear coat make it so it adheres better and dries much harder than what I used? Is that the reason you chose those products? Excellent outcome, btw. I do see you flirted with a problem that I did. I figured the more coats the better, but that created a problem when removing tape. I ended up redoing a couple, and used paint and clear coat more sparingly ip against the tape, and the transition was better.
I haven't found a material that can stand up to the wear and not scrape off. I've tried black nickel, Cerakote, gun metal bluing, but they all seem to scuff pretty quickly.
Does this work with carbon as well, or is there anything to be aware of? I have an old TM M2 that I kind of want to mess with, maybe change up the color scheme completely
You can paint that too. But the primer I used was specific to metal etching, so you may just need a different primer that's compatible with the carbon fiber.
29 днів тому
I would like to paint one of my clubs but I don't know how to do it without leaving a ragged edge where the tape was.
That's my next video. You use the bead blaster with glass beads. You can use the cheap handheld blaster in the equipment links if you don't have a cabinet. I use it in my videos and it's like 20 dollars or so.
It held up great until I lit it on fire for an experiment. I'm making a driver with flames and skulls and wanted to see what the burned clear coat would look like over it. (Spoiler: it looks like burned clear coat)
Definitely. This ERC 2 is the club that was deemed 'non-conforming' because people were hitting it TOO FAR because of the club face was too hot: www.chicagotribune.com/news/ct-xpm-2000-12-19-0012190186-story.html
Hi, Nick. Since the base coat had texture, you'd lay down a layer of clear, let it dry, apply the vinyl logo, then clear coat thicker layers on top of it. I don't have a vinyl cutter (like the Cricut, or similar) at home but that'd be a good choice for that application.
@@BradMeehan Good info! I had some old Snake Eyes woods from Golfsmith that I played in high school I am about to reshaft. Fairly dinged up. I may try this method. Every so often I would look at them and get sentimental. Interestingly, they explain why I can't get my old Nike VR Pro Limited Edition 3/5 out of my bag. Same shape. They don't make em like they used to!
It's a junker club, but you get the point. It's more of an exercise of showing how to use auto paint and 2K clear instead of just Rustoleum. Also, I MURDER ferrules. I'm the ferrule hit-man at this point.
Hey brad. Would like to contact you in regards to your process in buffing and polishing irons. Just bought my whole set up and would like to receive some guidance.
It's not legal. It even says non-conforming on the heel. The history of this club is pretty cool. Arnold Palmer got involved to advocate for it for amateurs
I use that 2 part clear on guitars as well, keep in mind that once you mix it you only have 24 to 48 hours to use it as it hardens in the can. It dries super hard and will be super durable. I would have a number of projects ready to be cleared if they are as small as a driver head, at almost $30 a can, this stuff isn't cheap, just saying...
@@dcgl1tch439 Are you able to buy automotive clear coat from an auto paint supplier or auto parts store? If so, there is a something called a PreVal refillable sprayer you can use to spray the clear coat if you don't have a proper paint gun (I don't)
Yes, but you can 'tame' it after you sand it with a green scour pad you use to wash dishes to dull the lines. I like it a bit more subdued looking, but that's preference.
저도 골프클럽을 색칠을 다시해서 써보았지만 웨이트를 마춰서 사용해야 합니다. 기존 무게를 먼저 저울로 확인후 사포로 갈아서 또한번 무게를 확인후 색칠하면서 무게를 확인하며 색칠하는것을 추천 합니다. 가기가 원하는데로 막칠하다 보면 더 무거워져 기존 스윙때랑 탬포가 느려져 슬라이스가 납니다. 참고로 다칠한다음 종이박스에 헤어드라이기로 10분간 열처리 해주면 쉽게 벗겨지질 않습니다.
Try this at home! All equipment used in the video is here: www.amazon.com/shop/bradmeehan
Hey Brad, great channel. Is there a corrosion inhibitor product you would recommend for reconditioned golf clubs. Especially likes of vokey wedges?
@Dave Mclean CRC makes a spray that I believe is just called "corrosion inhibitor". It's in a green can. I watched a lot of videos on rust prevention and this one came on top.
@BradMeehan can the shaft be painted as well?
Hey Brad, I know it's been a while since you made this video but that's kind of perfect how has the paint held up after play and being in the bag if it is still in the bag?
@dakotav3675 it held up great. The 2k is really hard once it cures.
Mr. Meehan, as a mere 68 year old, part time golf club repair person, I can only say that when I grow up, I want to be just like you. Your work is a master class in fabrication and renovation. Exquisite!
@jeffreyprice2982 68 is just getting started! Thanks for the nice compliment and I'm glad you found the channel!
Dear Bard, every of your video are amazing. This one is astonishing! You really are a master in club restoration. Most appreciated is how educative your video are. No blabla (like most if not all video about golf and equipment), process and results only. Definitely a master!
Thank you, Luc. I hope that people see that the steps are easy to do at home as well!
@@BradMeehan Lol...now that's funny...since a Bard is literally a master of "blabla"! Just as you sir are a master of your craft!
That's amazing work that club is too die for.. Looks very SPANK!!!
@BradMeehan hello, I'm interested in doing this but I don't understand the products and the mix as well as where you are applying them in sections 1 :45 onwards in the video. The rustoleum and the red and white paint?
Amazing, got a not so expensive but still good driver that I'd like to refurbish, given me the inspiration, thank you.
Just the video I needed to see, thanks Brad! I recently snagged a Cleveland Launcher 460 from the thrift and I plan to repaint it along with a Titleist 975D that I was also restoring. I had tried painting the 975D but made some mistakes and needed to redo the whole process. This video will ensure I do better job once it warms up and I can paint them!
Don't be afraid to sand the hell out of it. You'll recover as you can see in this video.
How did the Cleveland launcher 460 turn out? What color paint did you use referring mine as well? Thx
Love the content,not trying to knock you down.you and a few others actually got me started in this hobby...but my exact same experience with a tm r11s i painted black is that the spray max 2k clear needs to cure under a infrared light...or it never fully cures and makes the finish softish and very easy to chip or ding...also a light water sanding around the taped edges before clear coat ,eliminates that paint lift when pulling the tape off..just my findings. i will experiment with powder coats..
This is a good tip. I'd like to hear more about your experiments with the powder coating. I want to learn that.
I was thinking a water sanding after the tape removal just to soften the transition from metal to paint as well.
I really enjoy the channel content! Learn something new or see a detail I previously missed with each video! It’s a great training resource! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and inspiring me!
Glad you like them!
Amazing job. You've turned and old, filthy Big Bertha into a Miss America. Congratulations! Your channel is my favorite stop from now on. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
The sole plate looks awesome! Did you have to somehow smooth down or sand the edges where the new paint met unfinished metal. I was expecting you to remove the shaft but understand why you wouldn't. Great stuff.
I'm very impressed. The tape line around the face is impossible to me. I remember from restoring persimmons back in the day. You definitely added value to the club. The best part is the shine you got with that freaking rattle can paint. I'm going to buy that clearcoat and try it on my Taylor 200s.
The 2K clear coat is really the secret to it all. Once it cures, it's super durable. I've been using LimeLine fine line vinyl tape for the tight curves and it works great. Check out my latest video where I paint the club like a lowrider and you'll see some pretty nice curves I got from that tape.
That Spray Max 2k clear coat is great stuff. I painted my pressure washer candy blue with metal flake and used a Spray Max can to clear it. It still looks awesome after 10 years.
@@schreinertx6315 it's great! I have to make sure I have a few projects ready to go so I can take advantage of the whole can without wasting it. It's gold!
@schreinertx6315 also, I need to see this pressure washer!
So so expensive for one can ?
Spray max 2k clear is the best thing ever man. Painted multiple cars with it. Strongest clear I've ever worked with
Wow it’s so expensive though ?
@@teapeg not really
I think it would be to see you team up with John and Ashley from stacked golf a go hunt down a set and restore them together.
Ew. No
you mean staged golf ? where they pre plant clubs at garage sales and pretend they found them
Well done good craftsmanship very nice paint job and I am a professional painter. How would you go about restoring the Chevron mark for the center of the club?
Mas excellente! And also, with inspiration from here, I did the gold paint infill on a Wright & Ditson (St. Andrews) wood recently, my first ever. It looks amazing. I just happened to have some gold paint and a tiny brush in my shop "inventory". The most tedious part was cleaning the crud off the paint that was put on there--100 years ago. I used a watchmakers set of tweezers. I've gone fully bonkers apparently and am now rebuilding original hickory clubs for the pursuit of "old timey" golf.
That's great. It's such a rewarding hobby.
Coincidentally, I just bought my first set of watchmakers tweezers and screwdrivers to mess with some vintage watches.
Your channel is awesome! I learn something with every video! Thank you! Did you buff out the club or just sand it this time?
Just sanding, but I used a green scour pad to soften the sanding lines a bit on the bottom.
Yoo, that is sick ! I have a 906f2 5 wood I just bought on the cheap that I want to restore .. Love your work and the step by step instruction 👌 👌
Excellent! 👏👏 Thxz for taking the time to share your talents!
I just did this to my mini driver that got dented when my bag fell off the cart in the parking lot.I even filled and primed a tiny dent and it looks perfect!All about prep and taping meticulously..
That's awesome. And it feels good to say you did it yourself.
Your videos have inspired me to tinker around with my old clubs before ditching them for something new! Just took the white paint off the crown of my TaylorMade R11 hybrid and looking to paint it black
Let me know how it goes. Thin coats is key!
How did it work?
So it took me forever to do this (this thing called life got in the way haha), but I’m satisfied with how it turned out! For the longest time I had the paint off the crown and just rocked the bare metal look. Decided to complete it today as I’m getting hooked on clubmaking. Should have sanded the crown with finer grit before spray painting. I thought I also had leftover clear coat, but I couldn’t find it. Oh well
Your commitment to hand sanding is admirable. I don’t have that kind of patience 😅
Most of my huge screw ups were due to me overdoing it with power tools, so i had to back off. I get too carried away with zero ability to control it. Plus, it's very therapeutic for me to shut off the phone, listen to some vinyl records, and zone out for a bit while sanding.
Hey Brad, currently trying to do something special for a friend and customize a new hybrid for him. Basically just adding a few stripes on the club head to make it look really cool and unique. Have you ever tried anything like that? Any tips?
@Jacob_Champlin sweet. Just make sure to scuff the existing paint or powder coating really well. Then do multiple light coats of the stripe color first. Let it dry for at least a day. Then mask a few stripes with vinyl tape and paint over it with the other color. Let that dry and SLOWLY peel the tape to reveal the stripes under it. Then, use the 2K clear coat over all of that like in the video. There are links in the description to the tape and paint.
If you F up, you can just re-scuff it and start over. Don't sweat making mistakes. It's all fixable.
Also, practice on a junk club to give you confidence.
A friend of mine painted his 3 wood but he put a hair dryer on it as the paint dried and it did something to the paint to keep it from chipping. He's used that club for 4 years and it hasn't chipped yet. It's kind of like when you powder coat an object.
(Learning)
🤔 Curious why not use the paint stripper on the top and sides of the driver? I have a TM Spider Tour Black that I want to refinish.
I wanted to take advantage of the adhesion between the existing paint so I could paint over it versus trying to establish a new bond between the titanium and primer.
@@BradMeehan Thanks. That makes total sense. Appreciate the pointers.
Strong work, but how does it hit? Curious to see if face refinishing effected performance.
Wow Brad perfect job as usual, been waiting for a driver restoration, 👌👌👌👌👌
Thanks, Tony. That clear coat is so good. 🔥
Your video has inspired me to refinish my Cleveland 3 hybrid. One question, you went to the pains to strip much of the paint of the club but yet quite a bit remained on the top. Why not remove it all to have a clean slate?
Mostly laziness. My reasoning was that it already had a strong bond to the metal, so if I scuffed and smoothed it I could achieve a good finish and still have good adherence. I do the same with the irons; that is, i leave any remaining nickel on the club because that's just less nickel I have to lay back onto tit.
@@BradMeehan thanks. I’m going to tackle my hybrid next week. Your step by step process on the driver made it look pretty easy.
Brad, thanks for doing this video. I refurbished my 3 hybrid and it came out really nice. I may tackle my old Cobra 3 wood next. You demystified the entire process which made it so easy and rewarding. I hope other guys are equally inspired.
Hey Brad, my hybrid came out really well but despite using a head cover after every shot, I’m seeing ding in the finish. I think I used the wrong clear coat. So I’m going to refinish it along with another club during Christmas. Do i need to resand the club or can I just strip it and respray?
Brad, I decided to tackle two other clubs and to redo my hybrid this weekend. I followed your directions to a tee and the results are fantastic! Many thanks for sharing how we can do this in our own garages. I can’t wait to show off my “new” clubs to the boys at my course. Happy New Year!
Hi. How legal are these clubs after you refurbish them? Please don't get me wrong cause I enjoy your videos. I'm just curious. 😊
Nicely done, it turned out beautifully.
Thank you, Gary.
@@BradMeehan Welcome, sir.
Brad, your work is amazing, I would really like to see you complete a whole set
Thanks. I've done full sets but I honestly get so bored after about the 4th one. I need variety!
Did you do any other sanding on the club face? Or just straight up 120 and done?
120 and done. If it looks too aggressive, then you can go up another grit to 400 to tame it, but I'd still start with 120. You're just trying to make uniform looking lines rather than remove metal, so there's no need to overdo it.
@BradMeehan cool thanks. I'm experimenting with a little restoration on some cheap clubs just for fun. Worse case I'm out some time and 20 bucks 🤷♂️. I didn't wanna break or wrecks something good.
@jrseitz21 This is the best approach - i practice on a junker, ruin it, try again, ruin it, try again, perfection.
Also, that 2K clear coat has about a 2 day lifespan after you mix the two parts.
@BradMeehan I've heard as much. I do other hobbies and models and have read about that stuff. Never used it yet. But thanks for the heads up.
The finish is beautiful. Does anyone know of a way to gently smooth out the hard edge of the paint line?
@thebloodyshambles I need to work on that. The advice is to sand it down and cut/polish it. Someone commented here in this video with how to do it properly. I need practice.
@@BradMeehan thanks for replying, man I am hooked on your videos been watching for two hours now! Just amazing work! I am about to do my first project, a 1,3,5 persimmon wood set RAM about 1983. Gotta start somewhere, this gives me tons of inspiration. I wasn't sure whether to remove heads or not, woods look a little more tricky to remove.
Brad that is remarkable finish. Amazing finish!
Thanks, Mark!
Hi Brad. Love your videos. I just did this with an old MacGregor Driver. Could help but think during the process if I should be lightly sanding (like a very light wet sand) between coats of paint for better application of the next coat??? I didnt sand, but I did the tack cloth between coats, and seems to have worked out just fine.... but would like to know what you think....
I have a video of MacGregor 3 wood. Between coats, I scuff with steel wool, and it comes out great.
Great video! Just found an old Ping answer putter. How would you go about restoring it.
Thank you.
Check out my Ping 1A video. That should work for you.
awesome job... will be trying
Beautiful attention to detail.
any ideas where a guy could find the decals for the top of the driver head? i have scoured the internet with no luck!! your vids are great btw!!
If there are no decals available wonder if you can draw the symbol on some tape, carefully cut it out and use as a stencil?
Yessir. Even easier, ask around if any of your friends or wives has a Cricut. They're really popular for crafts. I used one in my latest video to cut vinyl and do that exact thing. There's a link in the description to my equipment page if you want to see what it looks like.
I have a pretty similar driver: 2000 Callaway Big Bertha Hawkeye VFT Prototype (rule-conforming). Looks just as stunning as that one. Hits amazingly well, too.
Hi Brad, Amazing videos, do you restore clubs for others for a charge?
I just do this for fun to show people how to do it at home.
@@BradMeehan ok great thanks!
Man awesome job looks brand new!!
Excellent work
Many thanks
When sanding the face and metal bottom you can use WD 40 as a lubricant, works really well.
Thank you. Yes! That worked great on the shaft restoration video i did to help lubricate the steel wool, too. There are so many great uses for that stuff!
Make sure you have a few items to clear coat using that 2 part with the red cap. Once you mix it it has a pretty short shelf life and will harden up in the can. At 25-30.00 a can you don't want to toss it with lots of paint left over. And pull the tape off not long after painting. Otherwise it will pull paint along with it as it dries.
Unbelievable! This is amazing. I'm doing a set of muirfield 20th anniversary blades... Wow
You can do it!
Very professional job
Thanks, Larry!
Hi, what do you apply on the paper towel to wipe after applying paint?
Wait. Did you mean on the top or bottom?
Top is a tack cloth to pick up lint.
Bottom, I use acetone to clean up the paint fill in the lettering.
@@BradMeehan thanks
Does the 2k clear cure to a harder finish...the regular rustoleum clear stays kinda soft even after a couple days...I scratch it off with my thumb nail cleaning off acrylic paint fill
It's like a rock when it cures. It's really good stuff.
I did something like this on a full set of woods that I used for a while then passed on to my daughter since the gapping between them was really better for her. I repainted in pink. The mistake I made, I think, is that I used your basic Krylon primer, paint, and clear coat, and while they turned out quite pretty to look at, they chip easily. Does the etching primer, automotive paint, and two part clear coat make it so it adheres better and dries much harder than what I used? Is that the reason you chose those products? Excellent outcome, btw. I do see you flirted with a problem that I did. I figured the more coats the better, but that created a problem when removing tape. I ended up redoing a couple, and used paint and clear coat more sparingly ip against the tape, and the transition was better.
Good catch. Less is more around the edges I've found, or pulling that tape is tricky.
How long did you sand the top for because I tried and the scratches are still very visible
looks amazing
Say I wanted to turn a set of 704 cbs black, and I visibly want the finish to last, what would be the proper way, and what would be the easiest way?
This is the video I'm working on now!
The video I commented on, or a new one?
@patrickcollisson8819 Sorry, I mean I'm filming it now.
I love this ❤
Have you ever contemplated writing a book about club restoration. It would be a great resource.
Cant sanding the face of a club change change the way it performs? I'm genuinely curious because u make this look easy and do an amazing job
Looks amazing
Is auto paint tough enough to deal with the golf bag life?
The 2K clear is the key. It gets really hard after it cures. Don't confuse it with hardware store "2X clear".
Have you tried to refinish or refurbish any of the black or gun metal irons?
I haven't found a material that can stand up to the wear and not scrape off. I've tried black nickel, Cerakote, gun metal bluing, but they all seem to scuff pretty quickly.
Stunning results. Can I bring my car to you? My bumper has a scuff so I think you’re just the right guy to fix it.
Hey Brad,
What would you use to remove scratches from the face of a driver/wood? Is this different to removing them from irons?
Does this work with carbon as well, or is there anything to be aware of? I have an old TM M2 that I kind of want to mess with, maybe change up the color scheme completely
You can paint that too. But the primer I used was specific to metal etching, so you may just need a different primer that's compatible with the carbon fiber.
I would like to paint one of my clubs but I don't know how to do it without leaving a ragged edge where the tape was.
MAGNIFICENT 🎉
How would you leave a matte or flat finish on the club?
That's my next video. You use the bead blaster with glass beads. You can use the cheap handheld blaster in the equipment links if you don't have a cabinet. I use it in my videos and it's like 20 dollars or so.
You just answered all my questions about this!! Thank you!!!
Thanks, Simon! Please share!
How well did the paint hold up
It held up great until I lit it on fire for an experiment. I'm making a driver with flames and skulls and wanted to see what the burned clear coat would look like over it. (Spoiler: it looks like burned clear coat)
Love this...going to try it
솜씨가 좋습니다. 2액형 우레탄 페인트를 사용하여 멋진 복원 작업을 하셨네요.
Is reaching bare metal throughout a requirement?
Nah. I just wanted to make sure the surface was etched for the primer to adhere. If it's already in decent shape, just thoroughly scuff it.
The two part clear coat is best?
@@mattcradduck197 the best.
Great job
well done...that driver is still usable, especially with new ones running $500+
Definitely. This ERC 2 is the club that was deemed 'non-conforming' because people were hitting it TOO FAR because of the club face was too hot:
www.chicagotribune.com/news/ct-xpm-2000-12-19-0012190186-story.html
Nice job ,the materials are expensive though for one club.
Yeah I was just thinking that. Might be too much for my budget to attempt.
Very nice video. You even spent the extra $$ on 2k clear. Nice
It's good stuff! Thanks for watching!
Awesome work, Brad! Only question I have is if you consider sticking a logo or something on the new paint for alignment before applying the clearcoat.
Hi, Nick. Since the base coat had texture, you'd lay down a layer of clear, let it dry, apply the vinyl logo, then clear coat thicker layers on top of it. I don't have a vinyl cutter (like the Cricut, or similar) at home but that'd be a good choice for that application.
@@BradMeehan Good info! I had some old Snake Eyes woods from Golfsmith that I played in high school I am about to reshaft. Fairly dinged up. I may try this method. Every so often I would look at them and get sentimental. Interestingly, they explain why I can't get my old Nike VR Pro Limited Edition 3/5 out of my bag. Same shape. They don't make em like they used to!
Can you do mine next? I have a old ping g10
trhat is incredible
@jeffyboi6969 Thank you
That’s a good job but why didn’t you tape up the v shape on the top of the club
It wasn't worth saving
Looks great, would have removed the shaft though... Ferrule looks a little beat.
It's a junker club, but you get the point. It's more of an exercise of showing how to use auto paint and 2K clear instead of just Rustoleum. Also, I MURDER ferrules. I'm the ferrule hit-man at this point.
Good work. My only advice would be to use a low tack tape on the bottom like frog tape, this way it won’t lift fill-in work. Well done!
Hey brad. Would like to contact you in regards to your process in buffing and polishing irons. Just bought my whole set up and would like to receive some guidance.
Shoot me a note here: Brad@BradMeehan.com
My off season project
Very Cool!
Where did the arrow go on top of the club head?
RIP the arrow
Great work
great job. only one thing is that club legal ? it might have a springy face.
It's not legal. It even says non-conforming on the heel. The history of this club is pretty cool. Arnold Palmer got involved to advocate for it for amateurs
I use that 2 part clear on guitars as well, keep in mind that once you mix it you only have 24 to 48 hours to use it as it hardens in the can. It dries super hard and will be super durable. I would have a number of projects ready to be cleared if they are as small as a driver head, at almost $30 a can, this stuff isn't cheap, just saying...
Fab !!!
How does the paint stand up against nics and hits?
The 2K clear is tough. It's automotive quality, but as someone mentioned below, you really need to let it properly cure.
@@BradMeehan thanks! Do you have any other recommendations other than the 2k? It seems like its hard to find in my country
@@dcgl1tch439 Are you able to buy automotive clear coat from an auto paint supplier or auto parts store? If so, there is a something called a PreVal refillable sprayer you can use to spray the clear coat if you don't have a proper paint gun (I don't)
What did all these products cost? Just the paint and primers would be nearing $50 alone.
Was your only work on the face done with 120 grit sand paper? I want to try a whole driver head raw, unpainted, but not sure which grit would be best
Yes, but you can 'tame' it after you sand it with a green scour pad you use to wash dishes to dull the lines. I like it a bit more subdued looking, but that's preference.
Kickin!
how much did everything cost you
25 to 30 dollars. The clear coat is the most expensive
amazing!
2k max hold up ok?
저도 골프클럽을 색칠을 다시해서 써보았지만 웨이트를 마춰서 사용해야 합니다.
기존 무게를 먼저 저울로 확인후 사포로 갈아서 또한번 무게를 확인후 색칠하면서 무게를 확인하며 색칠하는것을 추천 합니다.
가기가 원하는데로 막칠하다 보면 더 무거워져 기존 스윙때랑 탬포가 느려져 슬라이스가 납니다.
참고로 다칠한다음 종이박스에 헤어드라이기로 10분간 열처리 해주면 쉽게 벗겨지질 않습니다.
맞는 말씀입니다. 이 중요한 조언을 공유해 주셔서 감사합니다.
Amazing!!!
Magical!
WOW!
Impressive, one could make a side hustle by going to the thrift store, grabbing used clubs and restoring them like this
You can make a ton of money doing this. Even just a quick polish would 10x your return easy.