RE #4: Instead of using that pilot tool, I drill an actual hole with my smallest bit, and then use a midsize bit before drilling the "real" hole with the proper size bit. Stopped my 'wandering bit' problem. Also I noted afterward that when some of my handles looked off it was actually the doors themselves that were uneven, not the handles.
You should not spin the cabinet knob to tighten it. The screw should be rotated with the screwdriver from the back. You can mar the cabinet front if there are any irregularities in the knob base. Even if it is smooth and round, it can cause indenting or scratching of the surface, or damage to a stain or finish. This is particularly true if the drilled hole is even slightly oversize.
It's important to align the cabinet doors and drawers first, because they're almost always out of alignment. Most hinges have screw adjustments for this purpose. I find that an automatic center punch is more accurate, faster, and only requires one hand. A Portalign drill accessory also ensures that the holes are perpendicular, a crucial factor for handles with two screws. As shown here, the most common screw size is #8-32. The length varies with different doors and drawers. A washer can help hide tear-out on the back side.
Thank you for posting this great video. These are very practical tips and I probably wouldn't have even thought of them until I'd already messed up. Thank you for saving me from learning the hard way!
A great way to get your holes centered when drilling is to use a nice finish nail rather than a nail set. It makes getting centered on your drawn circle a lot more accurate. Brad point drill bits also "seat" into that mark and don't wander as easily.
Instead of using painters tape to prevent splintering on the backside of the door, use a piece of wood scrap! That prevents splintering much better than flimsy tape .
@@mikahbryan Just use an Irwin clamp near the hole. They clamp with one hand, can instantly be released, and are easily moved out of the way or to the next item.
To PROPERLY use a CENTER PUNCH...tap it just ONCE.(forcefully)..not a repeated series of blows with a hammer. Kinda the same thing as DRAWING A LINE with a PENCIL...DRAW it ONCE...not multiple times.
Using a scrap block of wood clamped to the drawer will stop the splintering much better than tape. When drilling through the drawer or cabinet door you drill into the scrap wood block this gives a clean hole on the back side.
Thanks for the tip! I used the drill bit that came with the guide pack but it sure makes a big difference when you have the right tools. Next time for sure, one less step. Thanks for watching!!
Lol, love the large rubber hammer you used to center punch the hole. Also on certain wire strippers have places when you can thread in a screw and use the strippers to cut, down the screw. Or you can use a grinder to cut it down, and taper the edge you cut and it will screw right on. Great video! I'm going to have to get the cabinet guides to mark the holes👍🙏
Thanks for support! Yes I had the stripper and cut a few and it caused issues with treads and lost a cabinet knob because of it. So easiest solution I bought the right size from Home Depot for a couple of bucks. Save on time and way easier than cutting the right length of every screw and cleaning edges up to fit.
You can avoid that back end blow out if you let the drill do the work for you. Don't force your drill like the person in the video. If you force your drill like that you will most certainly have bad blow out.
Wow, thanks so much for this! I'm getting ready to install cabinet hardware (for the first time ever) and I've been dreading it. Your tips will help a lot!! Well done. New subscriber.
A centre punch is a bit over the top. Go with a bradawl or gimlet next time. You can use either with one hand and they are a lot more precise. Nice work.
Hi Nancy, glad it worked out! Duck tape adhesive is very strong and I’d fear it pulling finish on cabinets or leaving residue so I used painters tape which is less adhesive but I’m glad it worked for your project. Thanks for watching!
You can bring the screw that came with knob to hardware store and they will verify the size you need. There is a measuring plate you can use at most stores that you screw in to verify size. A lot of those are standard and cell as cabinet screws in a pack. Thanks for watching! Good luck on your project!
Use Brad point bits and make your own template out of scraps that you can drill through. The tape didn’t work very well to prevent blow out. Like they said below, clamp a block to the back.
Thanks! I placed an affiliate link for Amazon under the video info section if interested in the type of cabinet hardware we got. Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Is that actually a center punch? It looked more like a counter sink punch for counter sinking casing and other finish nails. A center punch usually has a nice sharp point to place correctly on the desired mark.
All good and all. Good tips , except the nail punch, I def would not recommend doing that . As far as damage to the back of the door while drilling , just make sure u have a a decent drill bit, and don’t not lay your weights into it . Allow the drill to do the work. You can also use your drill when screwing the knob/pull in just sent it to a lower torch and the drill will ratchet when it’s tight. Do not use an impact drill , there’s just no need to take that risk
Just a lil tip...you never want to tighten knob instead of screw...if knod wobbles in hole you'll have a ring from screwing in knob instead of screw...hold knob in place & use screwdriver as it's intended & screw in the screw not the knob.
what size drill bit did you use for that 8x32 screw? And I have a 1/2 drawer and 1/2 drawer front so would i need a 1 1/2 screw or 1 1/4 screw for the handles? The doors are 1/2 think so i'll use the 1 in screws that came with them but i see you used a 1 1/4 screw. Thanks in advance
+chy hayes Chy, I'll go look at the drill bit that came with template kit. Must be standard size for cabinet knob screws. I had trouble with the screws that came with the knobs being too long, had to cut each one which gave me problems. After a few not threading correctly I decided to measured the length and purchased the right size at HD. Thanks for watching. I'll follow up later with an answer. Please subscribe more projects coming soon.
@@weekendhoneydolist - I'm the "honey" in this scenario. If the screws are too long, would a washer help? You could even use a rubber one which (seems to me) would hold more firmly against the wood than metal. Forgive me if I'm being annoying.
Good question. You should still be able to see the shiny pencil mark but you could get a white point sharpie or white out liquid might be a good option also. Thanks for watching!
Yes own several and they are crap due to hole alignment being worthless. The holes don't match the handles. So make sure u have handles in hand when buying cheap handle guides. Or spend money and buy completely adjustable.
Tip. Check the template you're thinking of buying first. Not every hole that I needed are on the template I bought. It didn't even have a center point on it. Makes it very difficult!
Great video. A quick tip I heard from a handy buddy... you can get brad point drill bits to create the starter hole right on the money. They have a point on the end of them, unlike normal drill bits. This might be an easier way to start the divot than the mallet and point.
Ugh, yep I lost one cabinet knob because the screw messed up the thread after cutting screw to size. I dropped everything and went to buy the right size screws for all cabinets from the hardware store. It was inexpensive and prevented losing another expensive knob. Thanks for watching!
The reason he is having a center punch fail is due to the tool and technique. Don't use a rubber mallet and lots of little tape. Do use a metal hammer and 1 clean, straight, strike.
I have the pliers with holes to do just that and I thought the same...easy...nope. After the third knob not threading right because of the cut I just went and bought the right size screws faster and easier no cutting trimming snd screwed on every time. Thanks for watching and comment. Please subscribe!
Weekend Honey Do List just did a kitchen today and in 25 years have had no problem. the key is after you make the cut, thread in past cut and back out. As most knobs and pulls come w screws u should not have to do this.
I appreciate your feedback! This was my experience with my install and the difficulty I had cutting the screws to be the right length, splintering causing them to not screw on correctly. I lost two cabinet knobs, messed up the threads with screws and at $3 a knob with a whole lot to go I figured just get the right size screws in a pack for a couple of bucks and avoid further issues. This was a great solution for me. I always appreciate info from the professionals, it helps me and other DIYers on future projects. Thanks again for the comments.
Fairly good tips but a couple are not entirely good. First of all, that’s not a good way to use a punch. Buy one made for this purpose and one hard “punch” will do it. I always drill a small pilot hole so the larger bit won’t wander. Using painters tape on the backside will still cause blow back! Use a piece of wood block against the backside so the bit goes through easily. Clamp if necessary. Using a template is fine if you don’t have a good jig but using a mechanical pencil is a big NO! If you aren’t completely straight, that tiny piece of lead can move up or down giving a false and uneven mark! The lead is way to thin to go in the template hole. Even a macro off and your pull will stand out unevenly. If you aren’t steady drilling straight in you could have problems getting the screw to fit. Use a washer or a drill block to control your drill. Remember to screw in the screw and NOT the knob!
You used a "nail set" rather than a "center punch". And, you used a "slotted" screwdriver, not a "flat head". A flat head is a type of screw. Please get your terminology correct for future videos. Lots of people use the wrong name of tools but that doesn't make it right.
This guy has beautiful hands and painted nails. Very pretty!!
I most liked the tape over the template holes. Big time saver and reduces being "1 off"
RE #4: Instead of using that pilot tool, I drill an actual hole with my smallest bit, and then use a midsize bit before drilling the "real" hole with the proper size bit. Stopped my 'wandering bit' problem. Also I noted afterward that when some of my handles looked off it was actually the doors themselves that were uneven, not the handles.
Yeah, that another problem altogether. One I'm having right now. Ugh!
You should not spin the cabinet knob to tighten it. The screw should be rotated with the screwdriver from the back. You can mar the cabinet front if there are any irregularities in the knob base. Even if it is smooth and round, it can cause indenting or scratching of the surface, or damage to a stain or finish. This is particularly true if the drilled hole is even slightly oversize.
I was going to say the same thing!
Even I knew that, and I'm a music teacher.
It's important to align the cabinet doors and drawers first, because they're almost always out of alignment. Most hinges have screw adjustments for this purpose. I find that an automatic center punch is more accurate, faster, and only requires one hand. A Portalign drill accessory also ensures that the holes are perpendicular, a crucial factor for handles with two screws. As shown here, the most common screw size is #8-32. The length varies with different doors and drawers. A washer can help hide tear-out on the back side.
Thank you for posting this great video. These are very practical tips and I probably wouldn't have even thought of them until I'd already messed up. Thank you for saving me from learning the hard way!
Descents
My screw length may have need a little short. So I used some Blue lock tight/thread blocker to keep the screws from backing out. Thanks for the tips.
A great way to get your holes centered when drilling is to use a nice finish nail rather than a nail set. It makes getting centered on your drawn circle a lot more accurate. Brad point drill bits also "seat" into that mark and don't wander as easily.
this is it! simple but contains all the tips you need for the best results
I love this video.. lot of tips for someone that has never put new handles on cabanits
Instead of using painters tape to prevent splintering on the backside of the door, use a piece of wood scrap! That prevents splintering much better than flimsy tape
.
thx
Absolutely!
Only problem with that is you have to hold scrap piece tight against door
@@mikahbryan that's what vises are for!
@@mikahbryan Just use an Irwin clamp near the hole. They clamp with one hand, can instantly be released, and are easily moved out of the way or to the next item.
ahhh, Mounting putty...now why didn't I think of that. Thank you!
Best video I've seen so far for installing cabinet/draw hardware. Thank you!
Thank You!!
Thank you for this EXCELLENT video !!!
Thank you Lynda! Thanks for watching!
To PROPERLY use a CENTER PUNCH...tap it just ONCE.(forcefully)..not a repeated series of blows with a hammer.
Kinda the same thing as DRAWING A LINE with a PENCIL...DRAW it ONCE...not multiple times.
And don’t hold it like a crippled chimpanzee
Really great tips on this. Thanks for sharing ~
Using a scrap block of wood clamped to the drawer will stop the splintering much better than tape. When drilling through the drawer or cabinet door you drill into the scrap wood block this gives a clean hole on the back side.
Thanks for your demonstration. Very well explained
clamp block of wood instead of tape to avoid blowing out the wood
+kathryn liu Great tip!! Will do that next time. Thanks for watching!
explanation plz 🙏🏻
Great video. Rather than use a center punch I recommend brad point drill bits they won’t wander.
Thanks for the tip! I used the drill bit that came with the guide pack but it sure makes a big difference when you have the right tools. Next time for sure, one less step. Thanks for watching!!
Lol, love the large rubber hammer you used to center punch the hole. Also on certain wire strippers have places when you can thread in a screw and use the strippers to cut, down the screw. Or you can use a grinder to cut it down, and taper the edge you cut and it will screw right on.
Great video! I'm going to have to get the cabinet guides to mark the holes👍🙏
Thanks for support! Yes I had the stripper and cut a few and it caused issues with treads and lost a cabinet knob because of it. So easiest solution I bought the right size from Home Depot for a couple of bucks. Save on time and way easier than cutting the right length of every screw and cleaning edges up to fit.
Excellent tutorial! Thank you!
Great video. Very easy to follow and great tips. Thanks
kathy forester Thanks Kathy! Good luck on your project! Thanks for watching and please subscribe.
You can avoid that back end blow out if you let the drill do the work for you. Don't force your drill like the person in the video. If you force your drill like that you will most certainly have bad blow out.
Ok, that was straight up great!! Thanks!
Thank you!
Great job!
Wow, thanks so much for this! I'm getting ready to install cabinet hardware (for the first time ever) and I've been dreading it. Your tips will help a lot!! Well done. New subscriber.
Thank you! Good luck on your project. It really makes a difference having new hardware. Thanks for subscribing also!!
A centre punch is a bit over the top. Go with a bradawl or gimlet next time. You can use either with one hand and they are a lot more precise. Nice work.
Best video ever 🤗 thank you for sharing 🙏
Awwww thank you! Good luck on your project! Thanks for watching.
I installed my cabinet knobs today and used duct tape on the inside where I drilled. I didn't have any blowouts where I drilled. Worked very well.
Hi Nancy, glad it worked out! Duck tape adhesive is very strong and I’d fear it pulling finish on cabinets or leaving residue so I used painters tape which is less adhesive but I’m glad it worked for your project. Thanks for watching!
How do I find out what size screw I need for my cabinet knob ?
You can bring the screw that came with knob to hardware store and they will verify the size you need. There is a measuring plate you can use at most stores that you screw in to verify size. A lot of those are standard and cell as cabinet screws in a pack. Thanks for watching! Good luck on your project!
What size drill bit??
Very GOOD!! Thank You and I also think a lot of the comments below are good additional helps. Thank You below too!
Use Brad point bits and make your own template out of scraps that you can drill through. The tape didn’t work very well to prevent blow out. Like they said below, clamp a block to the back.
very helpful !!!! Thanks!!
Great video
Use an automatic center punch to avoid the center punch issues
Thank you so much for your tips. Easy to follow and very informative!
Invention idea no.148(pat pending)
Interchangable Magnetic door pulls
Moose Stubbings send me some to try out. I’ll make a video review.
2:00 you need a pre-center punch puncher
If you use a piece of wood behind where you drill it will keep from blowing out the hole. Better than tape
great video
Great video.
Where did you get your knobs? I got some like this from a Habitat Restore snd need a few more.
Thanks! I placed an affiliate link for Amazon under the video info section if interested in the type of cabinet hardware we got. Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Is that actually a center punch? It looked more like a counter sink punch for counter sinking casing and other finish nails. A center punch usually has a nice sharp point to place correctly on the desired mark.
I want to place my handle in the middle of the cabinet upper or lower edge not the standard corners would that look good or bad idea
If you like it it’s a great idea. If you’re thinking of selling the house in the near future choose the standard corners. I chose what my wife liked.
Thank you! 🙏🏼
at 1:50 the word is wander ,wonder means to think about it
All good and all. Good tips , except the nail punch, I def would not recommend doing that . As far as damage to the back of the door while drilling , just make sure u have a a decent drill bit, and don’t not lay your weights into it . Allow the drill to do the work. You can also use your drill when screwing the knob/pull in just sent it to a lower torch and the drill will ratchet when it’s tight. Do not use an impact drill , there’s just no need to take that risk
Great video, you covered all the points in a short informative video. Will def subscribe. :)
+CDianeWillis Thank you!
Great video thank you
Just a lil tip...you never want to tighten knob instead of screw...if knod wobbles in hole you'll have a ring from screwing in knob instead of screw...hold knob in place & use screwdriver as it's intended & screw in the screw not the knob.
what size drill bit did you use for that 8x32 screw? And I have a 1/2 drawer and 1/2 drawer front so would i need a 1 1/2 screw or 1 1/4 screw for the handles? The doors are 1/2 think so i'll use the 1 in screws that came with them but i see you used a 1 1/4 screw. Thanks in advance
+chy hayes Chy, I'll go look at the drill bit that came with template kit. Must be standard size for cabinet knob screws. I had trouble with the screws that came with the knobs being too long, had to cut each one which gave me problems. After a few not threading correctly I decided to measured the length and purchased the right size at HD. Thanks for watching. I'll follow up later with an answer. Please subscribe more projects coming soon.
ok cool
@@weekendhoneydolist - I'm the "honey" in this scenario. If the screws are too long, would a washer help? You could even use a rubber one which (seems to me) would hold more firmly against the wood than metal. Forgive me if I'm being annoying.
Was that a center punch for nails?
Yes it was. All I had available. Thanks for watching!
I used a shim to reduce/ eliminate cabinet damage on the backside. Mind you do not put the drill into your fingers.
how to do the marks on dark brown cabinets?
Good question. You should still be able to see the shiny pencil mark but you could get a white point sharpie or white out liquid might be a good option also. Thanks for watching!
Use the painters tape, eye up close to where the handle will go, tape that area and then use the jig and make the marks on the tape
Awesome thank you
Yes own several and they are crap due to hole alignment being worthless. The holes don't match the handles. So make sure u have handles in hand when buying cheap handle guides. Or spend money and buy completely adjustable.
Wow good tip. I’ve never had that issue myself but I order standard handles I could see custom ones having those issues. Thanks for watching!
Thank you! I'm getting ready to paint and install hardware on my cabinets. Would you recommend drilling the holes before or after painting?
Amy Jacob Hi Amy, I would say drill first then paint so you don’t accidentally chip new paint if drilling after.
@@weekendhoneydolist That's what I will do, then.
Thank you so much!
Tip. Check the template you're thinking of buying first. Not every hole that I needed are on the template I bought. It didn't even have a center point on it. Makes it very difficult!
Great video. A quick tip I heard from a handy buddy... you can get brad point drill bits to create the starter hole right on the money. They have a point on the end of them, unlike normal drill bits. This might be an easier way to start the divot than the mallet and point.
Great drill bit tip! Thanks for watching!
Clamp a scrap piece of hardwood to the back of the door\drawer when drilling. Far more effective than painters tape.
I had same problem screws to big and now even with right size screw it keeps turning the knob i think its threaded
Ugh, yep I lost one cabinet knob because the screw messed up the thread after cutting screw to size. I dropped everything and went to buy the right size screws for all cabinets from the hardware store. It was inexpensive and prevented losing another expensive knob. Thanks for watching!
@@weekendhoneydolist all sorted....snap off screws was the answer....brilliant stuff
Great instructions.
Thanks..👍🏻
The reason he is having a center punch fail is due to the tool and technique.
Don't use a rubber mallet and lots of little tape.
Do use a metal hammer and 1 clean, straight, strike.
at 5:11 INTALLING HAHAAAAHA
Well I’m gonna have to speak to my publishing editor about that typo. Can’t find good people these days! Thanks for watchng
great vid!
Thank you! Hope it helps on your project!
Love it!
Where’d you get the template?
I got template at local hardware store but I’ve included my affiliate link where you can get template shipped to you from amazon.
Are those your hands?
LOL which? My wife helped me with this project so it’s her’s and mine. Thanks for watching! Please subscribe.
Excellent video...thank you so much :)
Thanks for watching!
Thank you!!
Lol electricians wire strippers/cutters usually have threaded holes to cut these screws. Easy
I have the pliers with holes to do just that and I thought the same...easy...nope. After the third knob not threading right because of the cut I just went and bought the right size screws faster and easier no cutting trimming snd screwed on every time. Thanks for watching and comment. Please subscribe!
Weekend Honey Do List just did a kitchen today and in 25 years have had no problem. the key is after you make the cut, thread in past cut and back out. As most knobs and pulls come w screws u should not have to do this.
I appreciate your feedback! This was my experience with my install and the difficulty I had cutting the screws to be the right length, splintering causing them to not screw on correctly. I lost two cabinet knobs, messed up the threads with screws and at $3 a knob with a whole lot to go I figured just get the right size screws in a pack for a couple of bucks and avoid further issues. This was a great solution for me. I always appreciate info from the professionals, it helps me and other DIYers on future projects. Thanks again for the comments.
If you follow this man's instructions and mess up you're a fool.
I wish my contractor watched it🧐
After I tried tape.
you forgot the threadloc
You can prevent all splintering if you hold a peice of plywood behind, just be careful not to drill through your hand 🤣
Do not use a nail punch on your cabinets
That's looks like a Stanley nail set you are using, not a center punch
Wow! Good eye! It is. Didn’t have hole punch so used what I had! Yep DIY. Thanks for watching!
Good grief!! I have to go back to the store angle but a whole bunch of stuff!!
Can you come help meeeeee
Fairly good tips but a couple are not entirely good. First of all, that’s not a good way to use a punch. Buy one made for this purpose and one hard “punch” will do it. I always drill a small pilot hole so the larger bit won’t wander. Using painters tape on the backside will still cause blow back! Use a piece of wood block against the backside so the bit goes through easily. Clamp if necessary. Using a template is fine if you don’t have a good jig but using a mechanical pencil is a big NO! If you aren’t completely straight, that tiny piece of lead can move up or down giving a false and uneven mark! The lead is way to thin to go in the template hole. Even a macro off and your pull will stand out unevenly. If you aren’t steady drilling straight in you could have problems getting the screw to fit. Use a washer or a drill block to control your drill. Remember to screw in the screw and NOT the knob!
the fingers and voice don't match
LOL! That comment cracked us up! Merry Christmas everyone! Be safe out there!
YIKES...where do I start! Oh, wow is this bad advice!
You used a "nail set" rather than a "center punch". And, you used a "slotted" screwdriver, not a "flat head". A flat head is a type of screw. Please get your terminology correct for future videos. Lots of people use the wrong name of tools but that doesn't make it right.
LOL
Interesting. I’ve never heard of a “sloted” screwdriver...
Its been called a flathead screw driver for 3 generations in my family. Father and grandfather were both carpenters.
Lol
@@guest491 I think the op had it backwards so the jokes on him. Nothing funnier than when someone corrects someone and they are wrong.