Your doctor/patient analogy resonated with me. It reminds me of having a pinch nerve in the back and having the pain show-up in a different part of the body. Treat the pinch nerve, resolve the pain. Find the source of the noise, treat it (as desired), significantly reduce the noise. It totally worked for me and saved me $$$. Thank-you, for the great advice! USA subscriber.
I studded my wall, on some old rubber underlay, filled with insulation acoustic board, carpet, then another layer of board. Cheap as hell and made a massive difference. 👍👍
Hi @matts5356, Thanks so much for your kind words! We’re excited to be adding a few more modules in the new year, including a soundproof studio module and a garage conversion module. Keep an eye out for updates on the platform-we’ll share more details soon!
Hi Jim, thanks for uploading this and for all the advice you've given me in the comments recently. I've installed this system on the party wall (not flanking yet) in my daughter’s bedroom, and the difference is incredible. I tucked it up and down, and you're not wrong about that being 80% of the work! It took me about six weeks in the end, working most weekends and evenings after work, in between family commitments. This included everything from ripping off the dot and dab to fully decorating the finished wall. I spent a whole week after work sand-and-cementing all the small holes and filling in gaps where bricks were missing from the chimney breast removal. This step was so important and made such a difference on its own. It was very tiring with all those heavy materials, but it was absolutely worth it. Thank you for passing on your knowledge!
Hi John, Thank you so much for your kind comments! I’m really glad to hear you’ve achieved a good reduction in noise with the soundproofing-and I appreciate you sharing your experience. It’s definitely a lot of work, and I know the videos can make it look easier than it is. Filling in all those small holes must have made a huge difference! What room are you planning to tackle next? I bet it feels great to have more control over the noise from the neighbors now. Looking forward to hearing more about your progress!
The last house I lived in (sold in December 2022) I was stunned by the number of holes there were in the structure, it was a 1910 terrace that was renovated and extended in 1989. I wondered how I could hear the neighbours TV, turned out there were loads of holes in the walls at joist level and holes in the loft. I filled all holes and gaps then built a stud wall on the party wall with rockwool acoustic insulation and two layers of acoustic plasterboard. It could have been planned better but it was my first time and it still turned out to be a great improvement.
I live on a hill in a 1930s terrace. My noisy neighbours house is built slightly higher if that makes sense. Do you recommend anything different in this situation? We are hearing pretty much everything including high frequency kids screeching
Hi @midnightAngle264, yes, great question. In this situation, the soundproofing can be quite expensive because when you soundproof the bedroom, you will have noise diagonally from above and diagonally from below as well as the noise flanking through the structure too. You will need to consider a floating floor to the bedroom. Rockwool alone will not be enough, I think you would also need to consider a resilient layer to the ceilings such as resilient bars. Is there anyway you can do this work your self with advice and consultation? Or the DIY course. Feel free to get in touch and book a call, we will be happy to go through it with you. Thanks very much for your question.
Good question, I know how they fit them to walls with resilient bars, but not how ya fit one to the 50-70mm system which doesn’t have resilient channels
Hi @Grangey, Try not to overthink the 50mm system-it’s specifically designed to dampen sound through its layered construction and the use of different adhesives. Unlike systems with resilient channels, there’s less risk of compromising the setup. There’s definitely a bit of a knack to it, and we cover this in detail in a dedicated lesson on the course. Essentially, you would fix to the brickwork behind the soundproofing layers. For added assurance, you can use anti-vibration pads behind various brackets. In our experience, attaching something like a TV bracket or shelf to the 50mm system, when fixed to the brickwork, doesn’t result in a noticeable change in noise levels for the average person. I hope this helps! Thanks so much for your comment and your ongoing support of the channel-it’s truly appreciated.
@ thank you Jim, that’s super helpful. I’m going to attempt to soundproof my brothers flat, it’s a detached building and he only has someone below him, but the sound travels up the solid block walls. I’m going to try your 70mm system. I’d like to do the course too, will sign up after Christmas
Great vids Jim. I'm in the US and have gotten a recommendation for using 38mm Neoprene instead of the 20mm gym rubber. It's actually less expensive than the gym rubber. Which one do you think would be better for dampening?
Hi JP, my opinion is that the Neoprene is a great product and better used between drywall, or those layers in a system positioned after a resilient layer….Between those layers where you are adding the mass to the wall….rather than directly to the wall as a first layer….in case you channel the noise into the structure or other rooms like we find a thick MLV would do. The rubber we use for most of our sound deadening as a first layer is more like the gym rubber. It’s recycled rubber that both absorbs and barriers the sound. Is your gym rubber like this: ua-cam.com/video/63uKanAe0G8/v-deo.html Hope that helps, without seeing both products not sure what else I can say. Cheers Jim
@@jimprior7 Thanks for the reply Jim. I don't have a sample of their gym rubber yet, so hard to compare. Will EVA work the same or better than the neoprene? I read some good things about it. I wish you were here in the US. I cannot find any decent residential soundproofing experts here. When I call contractors that claim they can do this, they don't seem to have a clue.
Thanks for the videos! Do any considerations need to be made when putting noise insulation along a flanking wall that’s exterior, single skin, and doesn’t have a cavity? I’m a bit worried about doing things that could introduce damp issues/trap moisture
Hey @ThatBRMatt, the 20mm rubber that we use for our soundproofing installations we had tested in institutes like Birmingham University and found that it is actually one of the most anti-damp, anti-mould products out there. The 50mm soundproofing wall system also offers superior insulation with the installation method we show you on the Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course. We offer a 10 year Guaranteed with all of our installations. We have also been installing it for 20 years (unlike some of the new clip and channel concepts promoted recently) and never had any issues. But there are other methods for soundproofing a flanking walls if you are worried. Great questions thanks for asking and thanks for watching.
Hi @Annaduralska4889, I’m really sorry to hear about your experience. Unfortunately, the soundproofing industry often focuses on quick fixes, like sticking materials directly onto the party wall to address the noise path, aiming for a weekend or a few-days solution. I try not to highlight too many unsuccessful soundproofing attempts because no one likes that kind of negativity-but I can tell you that my installation team frequently has to remove and replace these types of soundproofing attempts. Thanks very much for sharing 👍
Hey Jim! I am about to open an indoor golf simulator in a commercial strip mall space in Texas. I am in between two businesses. One is a food place and the other a nail salon. I am trying to soundproof the place so that we can hit without having to worry about the noise bothering the other businesses. What is the best way to soundproof my space? Thanks so much!
Hi @Joshledda1245, Thanks very much for your question, I have recorded you a loom video: hopefully you can watch it....let us know what you think, here is the link: www.loom.com/share/99ca514d4f314422adbf1d532ffb2969?sid=ec398019-632a-43cd-8a3f-c3bacb880e99
What if I hear that noise from the partition wall between my living room and my bedroom... - am I supposed to deaden 'my own wall'? Upstairs neighbour, I can literally hear them talking when I put my ear besides the 'internal' wall
Hi @MrKaloszer, yes absolutely....or take the wall out....like we did in this video: How to professionally SOUNDPROOF your HOUSE! ua-cam.com/video/JUdjtpa2ik0/v-deo.html thanks for watching 👍
That Tecsound stuff is a total and absolute waste of money! Not even your fancy video would make me go near it again. It did nothing to isolate noise from our neighbours bedroom and ours.
Hi @2icelollys1goat, Thanks so much for sharing your experience. Like most soundproofing products, TecSound isn’t much use on its own-it really needs to be part of a system, working in combination with other materials to be effective. We would never use TecSound for isolation; it’s far better suited for sound deadening. For example, we’ve found it great for: Deadening RSJs Reducing water gushing noise in waste pipes Layering between two layers of Rockwool in lofts to combat road traffic noise High-frequency sound deadening on walls where space is limited Using TecSound on its own is a bit like trying to bake a cake with just flour-it’s only one ingredient in the recipe. 😉 Out of curiosity, how did you use the TecSound in your home? I’d love to hear more about your setup! Thanks again for your comment-and hey, I’ll take “fancy video” as a compliment! 😄
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Your doctor/patient analogy resonated with me. It reminds me of having a pinch nerve in the back and having the pain show-up in a different part of the body. Treat the pinch nerve, resolve the pain. Find the source of the noise, treat it (as desired), significantly reduce the noise. It totally worked for me and saved me $$$. Thank-you, for the great advice! USA subscriber.
I studded my wall, on some old rubber underlay, filled with insulation acoustic board, carpet, then another layer of board. Cheap as hell and made a massive difference. 👍👍
Having bought Jim’s course, I can highly recommend it. There are lots of little details you won’t get from these videos. It’s been excellent value.
Hi @matts5356,
Thanks so much for your kind words! We’re excited to be adding a few more modules in the new year, including a soundproof studio module and a garage conversion module. Keep an eye out for updates on the platform-we’ll share more details soon!
Hi Jim, thanks for uploading this and for all the advice you've given me in the comments recently. I've installed this system on the party wall (not flanking yet) in my daughter’s bedroom, and the difference is incredible. I tucked it up and down, and you're not wrong about that being 80% of the work!
It took me about six weeks in the end, working most weekends and evenings after work, in between family commitments. This included everything from ripping off the dot and dab to fully decorating the finished wall. I spent a whole week after work sand-and-cementing all the small holes and filling in gaps where bricks were missing from the chimney breast removal. This step was so important and made such a difference on its own.
It was very tiring with all those heavy materials, but it was absolutely worth it. Thank you for passing on your knowledge!
Hi John,
Thank you so much for your kind comments! I’m really glad to hear you’ve achieved a good reduction in noise with the soundproofing-and I appreciate you sharing your experience. It’s definitely a lot of work, and I know the videos can make it look easier than it is. Filling in all those small holes must have made a huge difference!
What room are you planning to tackle next? I bet it feels great to have more control over the noise from the neighbors now.
Looking forward to hearing more about your progress!
@@jimprior7 Our bedroom next Jim. Looking forward to trying the 50mm solution with the SBX boards as we have a chimney breast in that room.
The last house I lived in (sold in December 2022) I was stunned by the number of holes there were in the structure, it was a 1910 terrace that was renovated and extended in 1989. I wondered how I could hear the neighbours TV, turned out there were loads of holes in the walls at joist level and holes in the loft. I filled all holes and gaps then built a stud wall on the party wall with rockwool acoustic insulation and two layers of acoustic plasterboard. It could have been planned better but it was my first time and it still turned out to be a great improvement.
@jimh4072, that's brilliant, thanks for sharing 👍👍
I live on a hill in a 1930s terrace. My noisy neighbours house is built slightly higher if that makes sense. Do you recommend anything different in this situation? We are hearing pretty much everything including high frequency kids screeching
Hi @midnightAngle264, yes, great question. In this situation, the soundproofing can be quite expensive because when you soundproof the bedroom, you will have noise diagonally from above and diagonally from below as well as the noise flanking through the structure too.
You will need to consider a floating floor to the bedroom. Rockwool alone will not be enough, I think you would also need to consider a resilient layer to the ceilings such as resilient bars.
Is there anyway you can do this work your self with advice and consultation? Or the DIY course. Feel free to get in touch and book a call, we will be happy to go through it with you.
Thanks very much for your question.
@jimprior7 Thank you for the reply. Hopefully I will book a consultation in the new year
Most flanking walls will include sockets and radiators, still interested in knowing whether the 50mm system gets undermined by mounting a rad to it?
Good question, I know how they fit them to walls with resilient bars, but not how ya fit one to the 50-70mm system which doesn’t have resilient channels
Hi @Grangey,
Try not to overthink the 50mm system-it’s specifically designed to dampen sound through its layered construction and the use of different adhesives. Unlike systems with resilient channels, there’s less risk of compromising the setup.
There’s definitely a bit of a knack to it, and we cover this in detail in a dedicated lesson on the course. Essentially, you would fix to the brickwork behind the soundproofing layers. For added assurance, you can use anti-vibration pads behind various brackets.
In our experience, attaching something like a TV bracket or shelf to the 50mm system, when fixed to the brickwork, doesn’t result in a noticeable change in noise levels for the average person.
I hope this helps! Thanks so much for your comment and your ongoing support of the channel-it’s truly appreciated.
@ thank you Jim, that’s super helpful. I’m going to attempt to soundproof my brothers flat, it’s a detached building and he only has someone below him, but the sound travels up the solid block walls. I’m going to try your 70mm system. I’d like to do the course too, will sign up after Christmas
Great vids Jim. I'm in the US and have gotten a recommendation for using 38mm Neoprene instead of the 20mm gym rubber. It's actually less expensive than the gym rubber. Which one do you think would be better for dampening?
Hi JP, my opinion is that the Neoprene is a great product and better used between drywall, or those layers in a system positioned after a resilient layer….Between those layers where you are adding the mass to the wall….rather than directly to the wall as a first layer….in case you channel the noise into the structure or other rooms like we find a thick MLV would do.
The rubber we use for most of our sound deadening as a first layer is more like the gym rubber. It’s recycled rubber that both absorbs and barriers the sound.
Is your gym rubber like this:
ua-cam.com/video/63uKanAe0G8/v-deo.html
Hope that helps, without seeing both products not sure what else I can say.
Cheers
Jim
@@jimprior7 Thanks for the reply Jim. I don't have a sample of their gym rubber yet, so hard to compare. Will EVA work the same or better than the neoprene? I read some good things about it.
I wish you were here in the US. I cannot find any decent residential soundproofing experts here. When I call contractors that claim they can do this, they don't seem to have a clue.
Thanks for the videos!
Do any considerations need to be made when putting noise insulation along a flanking wall that’s exterior, single skin, and doesn’t have a cavity?
I’m a bit worried about doing things that could introduce damp issues/trap moisture
Hey @ThatBRMatt, the 20mm rubber that we use for our soundproofing installations we had tested in institutes like Birmingham University and found that it is actually one of the most anti-damp, anti-mould products out there. The 50mm soundproofing wall system also offers superior insulation with the installation method we show you on the Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course. We offer a 10 year Guaranteed with all of our installations. We have also been installing it for 20 years (unlike some of the new clip and channel concepts promoted recently) and never had any issues. But there are other methods for soundproofing a flanking walls if you are worried. Great questions thanks for asking and thanks for watching.
I wish I saw your video before my housing association soundproofed two walls in my house unsuccessfully 😢
Hi @Annaduralska4889,
I’m really sorry to hear about your experience. Unfortunately, the soundproofing industry often focuses on quick fixes, like sticking materials directly onto the party wall to address the noise path, aiming for a weekend or a few-days solution.
I try not to highlight too many unsuccessful soundproofing attempts because no one likes that kind of negativity-but I can tell you that my installation team frequently has to remove and replace these types of soundproofing attempts. Thanks very much for sharing 👍
Hey Jim! I am about to open an indoor golf simulator in a commercial strip mall space in Texas. I am in between two businesses. One is a food place and the other a nail salon. I am trying to soundproof the place so that we can hit without having to worry about the noise bothering the other businesses. What is the best way to soundproof my space? Thanks so much!
Hi @Joshledda1245, Thanks very much for your question, I have recorded you a loom video: hopefully you can watch it....let us know what you think, here is the link: www.loom.com/share/99ca514d4f314422adbf1d532ffb2969?sid=ec398019-632a-43cd-8a3f-c3bacb880e99
What if I hear that noise from the partition wall between my living room and my bedroom... - am I supposed to deaden 'my own wall'? Upstairs neighbour, I can literally hear them talking when I put my ear besides the 'internal' wall
Hi @MrKaloszer, yes absolutely....or take the wall out....like we did in this video: How to professionally SOUNDPROOF your HOUSE!
ua-cam.com/video/JUdjtpa2ik0/v-deo.html
thanks for watching 👍
That Tecsound stuff is a total and absolute waste of money! Not even your fancy video would make me go near it again. It did nothing to isolate noise from our neighbours bedroom and ours.
Hi @2icelollys1goat,
Thanks so much for sharing your experience. Like most soundproofing products, TecSound isn’t much use on its own-it really needs to be part of a system, working in combination with other materials to be effective.
We would never use TecSound for isolation; it’s far better suited for sound deadening. For example, we’ve found it great for:
Deadening RSJs
Reducing water gushing noise in waste pipes
Layering between two layers of Rockwool in lofts to combat road traffic noise
High-frequency sound deadening on walls where space is limited
Using TecSound on its own is a bit like trying to bake a cake with just flour-it’s only one ingredient in the recipe. 😉
Out of curiosity, how did you use the TecSound in your home? I’d love to hear more about your setup!
Thanks again for your comment-and hey, I’ll take “fancy video” as a compliment! 😄