Learning a lot, will attempt to do my flat myself soon. I hear the flat below through the solid walls (they’re not dot and dab) the floors are the gyproc ones with resilient channels and 19mm plasterboard plank in between. I’ll have to take it all up and insulate and use the rubber on the walls. Great video Jim
Join me on the NEW Soundproofing Master Class, it’s free to attend and what is quite refreshing….there is nothing to buy at the end, its just pure content and I hope you get value from it. Here is the link to register: jimprior.com/soundproofing-masterclass-registration/
Hey @Grangey, thanks for your question, Yes we would unless it’s not practical to do so, for example we would not tuck it down on a flanking wall if it caused a major structural disruption to tuck the soundproofing system down. Eg moving a stairs over….or re-routing major plumbing. Hope that helps Thanks for you question
Jim, mate - this is unbelievable content you are sharing in such a digestible format. I am a new clueless homeowner of a 100+yr old townhouse and we are miserable living in this place with the party wall and adjoining stairs. Unfortunately, we are living in the Netherlands so we can't avail of your services but I will be making sure how the contractors here assess the job according to the standards you have set in your videos. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge so generously! As to your question, I think spending 5k and still hearing noise would drive us up the wall and cost more to fix, so better to do it right the first time.
Ah thanks for your kind words mate, really appreciate it. Here is a company in Europe that sell the 20mm M20AD rubber I keep banging on about. www.isolgomma.com/product/mustwall-20g/ See if you are able to get a delivery from them to the Netherlands and check costs etc….if you can…you could be well on your way to reducing the noise. Let us all know how you get on. The next video is a bedroom in a 100+yr old terrace…I think you will like it. Should be out Friday or early next week. Many thanks
Hi, great videos. I was wondering, you mentioned 20mm issolation pads where do you get those from or can you recommend a type of Mat I could purchase instead and maybe cut into pieces ? Thnx
Thanks very much, hope you found it valuable: Here you go: www.soundinsulationstore.co.uk/products/m20-rubber-sheets-1000x1000x20mm?_pos=1&_psq=M20&_ss=e&_v=1.0
@@jimprior7oh very helpful, best I’ve seen. I was going to email you but this might help others in this game… basically Im building a mini ramp for BMX/Skate in a brick lockup, the outside backs onto someone’s garden. The sound its probably going to be drum like when it’s being rode, my thoughts where to obviously add the first layer of 20mm board you mentioned.. however I will need to add plywood to the wall as we are wall riding it, my initial idea was to add 2/2 joists ontop of the 20mm and insulate the gaps with Rockwell .. do you think I’m going to dampen much from this or do you think not. Appreciate your help I’m blown away how you keep up
@@weAreNotAloneHere Hey @weAreNotAloneHere thanks very much for your kind words …because you are treating the noise at source, doing that to the wall like you suggested will make a difference. However; after you sound deaden the wall, a 25mm air gap then the Rockwool would make a significant difference, but I understand the wall surface needs to be solid so this might be tricky to implement. I think you need to give the roof / ceiling some sound insulation…not just the wall backing on to the neighbours. I would go as far as suggesting an insulated suspended ceiling of some kind to reduce the noise getting to the potential hollow roof space. I think you will really need to dampen the acoustics within the room too, either specialist sound absorption panels or even something as cheap as carpet to as many hard surfaces in and around the ramps to reduce the sound bouncing around off of all the hard surfaces in the room. Sounds like an exciting project, let me now if you need installation support or consultation: jimprior.com/work-with-me/
What would you recommend for a creaky, echoey 1840s weavers cottage first floor? I thought about taking boards up, rockwool in between joists, joist tape on joists, screw boards down and some rubber/MLV on before fitting underlay and carpet?
Hi @t2thex21 For old cottages we use Rockwool RW3 (60kg/m3), it is a nice breathable sustainable product. Insulate between the floor joists and re-fit the floorboards if you have to refit the existing floorboards. (Alternatively replace the floor boards with a structural ply with expansion gaps and acoustic sealant glue and screw to squeaky joists). We find the best results come when we sound deaden those floorboards (or Ply-board) with a 10kg/m2 self adhesive TecSound if you are in UK or Europe. If you decided to use MLV, then use this between the floor joists with the Rockwool. MLV is pretty rubbish used on its own….ie on top of the floorboards….but use it in combination with other product like Rockwool then it gives noticeable reductions in noise. On top of the TecSound use a heavy duty underlay from one of the materials suppliers: www.floorscan.co.uk/product/acoustilay-15/ soundproofingshop.com/acoustic-floors/acoustilay-15-1-2m-x-1-2m-15mm-15kgm2-acoustilay15-12m-x-12m-12mm-15kg-222 www.soundservice.co.uk/quietfloor_plus.html Just one final point @t2thex21….do you have stud walls built on top of this squeaky floor? If you do maybe check the base plate is secure and the squeaking you are hearing down stairs is not coming from that. Have you seen this video: ua-cam.com/video/JBogcZpw_ss/v-deo.htmlsi=b_CiqqOc5dRYFsb0 Thanks very much for your comment….hopefully see you on the MasterClass jimprior.com/soundproofing-masterclass-registration/
Luckily my semi has a proper brick wall between me and next door and the joists run parallel to the party wall. Unfortunately i can hear next door snoring occasionally so ill have to sort that. I think one of the best ways to fix these problems is to have built in wardrobe against the party wall. All the clothes act as sound damping. Unfortunately you cant have a wardrobe in your living room 😂😂😂
Hi @Lawrence, thanks very much for your comment, and thanks for watching 👍. I live in a semi detached house and my floor joists did use to run into the wall before I disconnected them and no longer hear the neighbours doors slam. I think the wardrobe will change the way you hear the noise, but I have not come across any that significantly reduces the noise yet. One thing we do find though....the wardrobes that come with a backing to them and fitted floor to ceiling tend to channel the noise to other rooms.
At £25-30k its just cheaper to move house 😂. Obviously if you could do it 85-90% as good for under £10k then that might be more reasonable. Spending 10% of the value of the average house just on soundproofing seems A bit crazy to me.
Learning a lot, will attempt to do my flat myself soon. I hear the flat below through the solid walls (they’re not dot and dab) the floors are the gyproc ones with resilient channels and 19mm plasterboard plank in between. I’ll have to take it all up and insulate and use the rubber on the walls. Great video Jim
Brilliant video! Find this subject really interesting- lived in some noisy flats in my time and eventually moved, wish I’d known all this back then
Join me on the NEW Soundproofing Master Class, it’s free to attend and what is quite refreshing….there is nothing to buy at the end, its just pure content and I hope you get value from it. Here is the link to register:
jimprior.com/soundproofing-masterclass-registration/
Do you tuck the 50mm system down on flanking walls??
Hey @Grangey, thanks for your question, Yes we would unless it’s not practical to do so, for example we would not tuck it down on a flanking wall if it caused a major structural disruption to tuck the soundproofing system down. Eg moving a stairs over….or re-routing major plumbing. Hope that helps
Thanks for you question
Jim, mate - this is unbelievable content you are sharing in such a digestible format.
I am a new clueless homeowner of a 100+yr old townhouse and we are miserable living in this place with the party wall and adjoining stairs. Unfortunately, we are living in the Netherlands so we can't avail of your services but I will be making sure how the contractors here assess the job according to the standards you have set in your videos. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge so generously!
As to your question, I think spending 5k and still hearing noise would drive us up the wall and cost more to fix, so better to do it right the first time.
Ah thanks for your kind words mate, really appreciate it.
Here is a company in Europe that sell the 20mm M20AD rubber I keep banging on about.
www.isolgomma.com/product/mustwall-20g/
See if you are able to get a delivery from them to the Netherlands and check costs etc….if you can…you could be well on your way to reducing the noise.
Let us all know how you get on.
The next video is a bedroom in a 100+yr old terrace…I think you will like it. Should be out Friday or early next week.
Many thanks
Hi, great videos. I was wondering, you mentioned 20mm issolation pads where do you get those from or can you recommend a type of Mat I could purchase instead and maybe cut into pieces ? Thnx
Thanks very much, hope you found it valuable:
Here you go: www.soundinsulationstore.co.uk/products/m20-rubber-sheets-1000x1000x20mm?_pos=1&_psq=M20&_ss=e&_v=1.0
@@jimprior7oh very helpful, best I’ve seen. I was going to email you but this might help others in this game… basically Im building a mini ramp for BMX/Skate in a brick lockup, the outside backs onto someone’s garden. The sound its probably going to be drum like when it’s being rode, my thoughts where to obviously add the first layer of 20mm board you mentioned.. however I will need to add plywood to the wall as we are wall riding it, my initial idea was to add 2/2 joists ontop of the 20mm and insulate the gaps with Rockwell .. do you think I’m going to dampen much from this or do you think not. Appreciate your help I’m blown away how you keep up
@@weAreNotAloneHere Hey @weAreNotAloneHere thanks very much for your kind words …because you are treating the noise at source, doing that to the wall like you suggested will make a difference. However; after you sound deaden the wall, a 25mm air gap then the Rockwool would make a significant difference, but I understand the wall surface needs to be solid so this might be tricky to implement. I think you need to give the roof / ceiling some sound insulation…not just the wall backing on to the neighbours. I would go as far as suggesting an insulated suspended ceiling of some kind to reduce the noise getting to the potential hollow roof space.
I think you will really need to dampen the acoustics within the room too, either specialist sound absorption panels or even something as cheap as carpet to as many hard surfaces in and around the ramps to reduce the sound bouncing around off of all the hard surfaces in the room.
Sounds like an exciting project, let me now if you need installation support or consultation: jimprior.com/work-with-me/
Great video Jim!
Ah thanks guys, I thought you might like that one. 👍
Hello, what type of rubber is that? 11:15
It’s called M20AD 20mm rubber 👍
@jimprior7 Thanks!
What would you recommend for a creaky, echoey 1840s weavers cottage first floor? I thought about taking boards up, rockwool in between joists, joist tape on joists, screw boards down and some rubber/MLV on before fitting underlay and carpet?
Hi @t2thex21
For old cottages we use Rockwool RW3 (60kg/m3), it is a nice breathable sustainable product. Insulate between the floor joists and re-fit the floorboards if you have to refit the existing floorboards. (Alternatively replace the floor boards with a structural ply with expansion gaps and acoustic sealant glue and screw to squeaky joists).
We find the best results come when we sound deaden those floorboards (or Ply-board) with a 10kg/m2 self adhesive TecSound if you are in UK or Europe. If you decided to use MLV, then use this between the floor joists with the Rockwool. MLV is pretty rubbish used on its own….ie on top of the floorboards….but use it in combination with other product like Rockwool then it gives noticeable reductions in noise.
On top of the TecSound use a heavy duty underlay from one of the materials suppliers: www.floorscan.co.uk/product/acoustilay-15/
soundproofingshop.com/acoustic-floors/acoustilay-15-1-2m-x-1-2m-15mm-15kgm2-acoustilay15-12m-x-12m-12mm-15kg-222
www.soundservice.co.uk/quietfloor_plus.html
Just one final point @t2thex21….do you have stud walls built on top of this squeaky floor? If you do maybe check the base plate is secure and the squeaking you are hearing down stairs is not coming from that.
Have you seen this video: ua-cam.com/video/JBogcZpw_ss/v-deo.htmlsi=b_CiqqOc5dRYFsb0
Thanks very much for your comment….hopefully see you on the MasterClass jimprior.com/soundproofing-masterclass-registration/
Luckily my semi has a proper brick wall between me and next door and the joists run parallel to the party wall. Unfortunately i can hear next door snoring occasionally so ill have to sort that.
I think one of the best ways to fix these problems is to have built in wardrobe against the party wall. All the clothes act as sound damping. Unfortunately you cant have a wardrobe in your living room 😂😂😂
Hi @Lawrence, thanks very much for your comment, and thanks for watching 👍. I live in a semi detached house and my floor joists did use to run into the wall before I disconnected them and no longer hear the neighbours doors slam.
I think the wardrobe will change the way you hear the noise, but I have not come across any that significantly reduces the noise yet. One thing we do find though....the wardrobes that come with a backing to them and fitted floor to ceiling tend to channel the noise to other rooms.
At £25-30k its just cheaper to move house 😂. Obviously if you could do it 85-90% as good for under £10k then that might be more reasonable. Spending 10% of the value of the average house just on soundproofing seems A bit crazy to me.