Nissan Skyline Link G4+ ECU Live Dyno Tuning FREE Demo! - Part 1
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- Опубліковано 12 бер 2020
- In this video we give a demonstration of Live Dyno Tuning of a Link G4+ ECU while mapping an R34 Skyline.
Any questions, ask in the comments!
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Amazing video idea. Please keep these up!
Great video dude, amazing content.
Saw a familiar face and realized it was my own car! Great video this!
Might be!
Excellent Video. Very informative. Thanks a ton.
Glad it was helpful!
What a great video very informative !!! Thank you 🙏 been looking for a video like this for such a long time, you’re a rockstar
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome mate invaluable info!
Glad it was helpful!
pretty decent video, having some trouble starting my r34 off a base map. unsure why but i have alot of things that arent standard anymore. Fly by wire, can lamba, trigger setup etc
this is a very good and clear video. very fruitful for those who want too learn! BTW can you do more of these
Unlikely as I've sold up the workshop and retired to new adventures.
@@tunedbyrabbid could you explain some theory or moved on from cars?
This is awesome mate, I am about to buy this ecu for my er34!
I'm getting the flex fuel sensor too as I have a few extra mods and want to run e85
Nice, glad you found it helpful.
Great great content 💪🏻🔥🔥🔥💪🏻
Thanks glad you like it.
This was an awesome video!
Glad you liked it.
Thanks sir clear training UA-cam course
Loving the videos, proper in depth and easy to understand.
I was looking into a Link pnp for my 300zx. Im looking to use the ECU to control a water meth injection setup, and wondering if using a system with an arm button could innitiate a 2nd fuel and timing map within the ecu so essentialy i end up with a meth and non meth map, and use both the factory knock sensor and also some form of meth failsafe device to be able to trigger back to the non meth map if there is a failure with the meth system?
AEM Controllers also have a fault output which you could wire to the link to switch timing maps.
Great video
Thanks!
Thanks bro,,,,,,very helpful to me...........
Happy to help
Thank you 👍
You're welcome
Excellent content-you Sir are a true professional! I'm in the process of buying a 2JZS147 ARISTO that has a G4+ and already been mapped to a world-class standard (track performance video was taken). I assume that one would go through all the functions, settings, tables, etc. and save everything as my base of reference? I know adding new parameters and engine ware would change things over time but as a complete beginner at all of this not having to figure everything out from scratch would be very helpful. Obviously would not want to be lazy and apply some reverse engineering to the settings to understand concepts and reasoning behind the assigned values
In reference to a question made by another comment here on Methane/ Water injection. You explained how to wire it in what specific sensors would you recommend for this? And would some type of wastegate positioning sensor (ie Tiel) or TurboSmart fly by wire be able to be controlled by this ECU? Also for me, I would be looking at methane/H20 injection as a way to keep the heads clean. I've heard figures of 15% H20 but at what intervals? Also by consistently having lower intake temperatures you could extend engine life. But the same questions arise what kind of intervals? I know some complex questions but any answers from a top notch tuner as yourself would be greatly appreciated. Subscribed- Cheers!
No harm in saving your existing map and editing from there, no point redoing work that doesn't need to be done.
I assume you mean Methanol not Methane, depends on your controller for it as to how it will operate with the ECU.
Normally you want to inject a minimal amount to act as a cleaning / cooling agent. Rather than becoming totally methanol reliant.
See your manual for recommended injection amounts for your power level.
Im new to link ecu's ur videos are very nice thanks !
1 question : to listen and log the cilinder knock noice. Do i need to buy knocklock link g4 with the warning light ?
Thanks already
No just a normal knock box is fine for tuning.
It's awesome to see dialling the afr down to 2%. I will be happy within 10%. It's a struggle to do anything on the road. What's the rpm/load where you are confident to leave in closed loop lambda control?
Depends how confident you are in your wideband sensor and its reliability, and how good your controller and ECU is at detecting and disabling it if a fault is detected. In theory all the time, but it could go very wrong if the sensor turns bad.
10% is not good enough that can be the difference between 11.8:1 AFR and 13:1 AFR
Just wondering - was the Cam Angle Sensor set to fully advanced with trigger offset dialled in?
It doesn't matter where you set the CAS sensor as long as once you set your base timing you don't change it.
Some people leave it alone and match to where the stock ECU was happy, some people put the CAS all the way to one side then match the Link to that new setting.
I’m really interested in moving over to modeled vs traditional. Traditional is good to drive the car to get tuned but not to actually drive on long term
It is definitely the better option in the long term it also makes retuning easier such as swapping out injectors is just a setting change rather than fiddling with potentially your whole fuel map
Just subscribed! Cracking video and valuable info! I’m a skyline owner. Out of interest where are you based?
Basingstoke, Hampshire UK
Tuned by Rabbid thank you I’m in the north east
Hey video is great! I’m based in lakenheath area here in the uk. Any chance I’d be able to get a base map for my r33 rb25det, Garrett gt35, 1000cc injectors, front facing plenum, 6boost mani, with link g4+, fully forged with 9:0:1 compression.
Link has base maps for these engines, you'll just need to go through the setup procedures I've shown here and adjust for your setup before starting it.
Then get it to the dyno to get it tuned.
Tuned by Rabbid ahh okay thanks, it’s a learning curve for me an trying to figure all of this out
Looking at how you converted from traditional to modelled, where you did you get the 45 number from to divide by?
Basically add whatever percentage you require to make the highest number in the tables around 100-105% VE.
Great video and it's free.
It sure is!
@@tunedbyrabbid still would love ols videos. Quick question. Me7.6.2 uprated waste gate spring 10psi so 40% stronger. Would taking 40% off the entire n75 map be a good start point?
There isn't an N75 map in that ECU.
It use's Integral limit and linearisation of a PID controller.
However waste gate duty is calculated on relative boost, you've changed the base boost by changing the spring. The relative boost is still roughly the same above the spring pressure.
So rather than messing with relative boost control (which most do anyway without understanding it) you should just tell the ECU about it's new level of base boost.
@@tunedbyrabbid The map i changed was "KF to Linearization Boost pressure=f(TV)" address AD89C I reduced all cells by 42%. So you are saying this is an incorrect method for approaching a 10psi spring?
Yes totally wrong.
will this guide help if i'm using a link g4+ monsoon on a 4g63?
Most likely yes as tuning is tuning
@@tunedbyrabbid Thanks! How do you calculate the need of removing 2.5% of fuel at 34:10?
actual afr ÷ target afr will give you a factor to correct the cell by.
So 11.8 ÷ 11.5 is 1.026 so approximately 2.6% more fuel required to meet target.
Less than 1 means subtract fuel so 11 ÷ 11.5 is 0.96 so approx subtract 4%
More videos link ecu
On their way
Learn link 👍🏻
Sir can ask some questions about lock timing rb26
Nice and and informative video. Is this standard what you or every tuner does, ignition and fuel tuning? I had the idea that when i was remapping mine they just increased the boost and did it not so thoroughly as you do.