This is the best demonstration of a land plane I have ever viewed. You know what makes it so great? You demonstrated the application of the product as you narrated the video unlike most videos that talk for 20 minutes and demonstrate the application of the product for 5 minutes. You have a like & subscribe from me.
Been running my second hand Everything Attachments land plane behind the Ford 5000 for about 5 years now. Agree with just about everything you said, but want to comment. Some of my comments might be because my machine, land plane, and power are FAR above the 1025R you were running, but take it for the spirit in which it is given. 1968 Ford 5000. Roughly 60hp, 9000lbs. Land Plane is a 7' Everything Attachments and weighs about 1000lbs. My driveway was a base of mixed stone and stone dust. I've since added a stone layer to the top, but the stone dust comes up a lot. I also have neighbors who don't understand that driving through any standing water makes a hole. They also think the smooth surface is grounds to do 30+ mph down the road. So, since I can't seem to change their behaviors, I have to keep repairing the damage. (oh darn, more Tractor Time for Chris) I start by retracting my top link and doing 10+ passes with the scarifiers ripping the heck out of the hard pack. If I don't do this, it can take many passes before the blades really fill up, While it sounds like I'm doing more passes, the 10 or so just ripping can go much faster than the full box. When full, my land plane is 7' wide, about 30" long, and 20" high. It's a lot of material that is moved. Like you, I routinely move material and dump it in low areas. The hardest part is the final grade. When material is spilling over the blades, it tends to create small clumps. This isn't all that noticeable until you drive on it and feel the ripple effect. To do the final, I use the top link to angle the grader so that the rear is lifted, the rear blade is barely touching the ground. This allows the front blade to spread and then the rear just sheers off the clumps. It's a delicate adjustment, but once you get it the finish is a 3 pass (up and back 3 times) effort. In all, I can smooth out the 1/4 mile in about 40 minutes. As for the ends, I've become really good at lifting the land plane slowly and letting the gravel spread out over a long area. During the final grading I use this method to layer in at both ends. It's not perfect, but it's pretty good. The key is to not let pot holes get deep. Unless your scarifiers or blade can reach the bottom of the hole, you will still have that hole there when cars finish compacting the surface - just shallow. If that is the case, you do it again soon to eliminate the holes. Also, by grading more often, I keep the rocks on top and that reduces the dust a lot. I can easily tell when I've let it go by the dust clouds being kicked up by vehicles.
Very good video Tim. I've watched several videos comparing box blade versus land plane. Your's is by far the best land plane tutorial I've seen. Land plane it is for our driveway. Thanks!
Tim, I loved this as it confirms that I am doing it right. But my hard pack road base does not flow as easily as your gravel over a mile long drive with lots of slopes and turns. Christy rode a bike back and forth while filming. Wow what a trooper.
I use a dirt pulveriser to break up the hard pack on my driveway and it works pretty good. The scarifiers leave lines though that dissappear after a week or two of driving on my driveway...
Also try doing it if there is a light rain or the ground is soft awhile after it does rain that will help big time ! I used to grade the lot at the tow yard and it was hard as hell. But when the ground has some water in it and on it it will come around
I had a TOP n' TILT installed 5-6 yrs ago (Kioti CK35 HST). They don't hold position very well, especially the top link. I will get one you suggest. I maintain a community lane 1/2+ mi but it needs rock (3/4 minus). Trying to get 1/2 dozen people to pay for it is a challenge! I might mention running your land plane in reverse (driving backwards) helps smooth it out. Thank you for your vids. Appreciatively, Frosty
I've been enjoying every episode. Just great, simple, and easy to watch and understand mini-lessons. Keep up the great work. I look forward to the next episode.
I just got a 5’ land plane with rippers. My 2025R does a nice job using all 4 rippers. I just can’t drop them down too far to start. Thanks for sharing this video. I used mine for the first time last week and ran into all the things you showed.
So glad i bought my Woods grading scraper when i got my massey! When I get the rock pulled up after a while I'll do a lot of backing to pile it up around garages and the end near the street then back drag with my bucket to finish it. Also a garden rake will make it perfect. I recently used mine to fix a cemetary because it is so bad you drag your car driving through it.
I have the same driveway situation. I also use a land plane. After you are done with the land plane, take a chain drag mat and run over it several times. The drag may will knock down the ridges and make the driveway smooth as glass! I bought my chain drag from tractor supply. They also work very well for seeding a yard. Well worth the money
Those are a great tool for driveways. As you pointed out they are forgiving and do a nice job. I see Christy’s got a new way of getting around😉. Nice job as always, and the audio continues to impress. Blessings.
@@TractorTimewithTim Great suggestion and I will start to do that... I have enjoyed your channel and your commentary and have learned a lot. I learned about your channel when I watched Neil with the best yard and driveway on UA-cam! I'll keep you posted on my progress and you will see my comments and questions!
I personally use the "feathering" approach for starting/ stopping. Instead of just dropping it or quickly raising it. I go gradual in increments to taper the cut on a start or on a stop to gradually dump material out.
@@TractorTimewithTim I guess the only way to satisfy yourself with overcoming creating bare spots is to start at the high spots and feather it down. After all that is what it was designed to do, you just have to help it getting started by starting where your material is at its deepest. And end at its lowest.
I can agree that while a box blade can grade a driveway, a land plane is the cats meow for gravel work. Also I like to use mine in reverse to spread out new gravel its works great that way too
I have used a land plane a lot to level baseball fields. So much that I wore out the skid shoes under the side skirts. Another trick is to run the attachment backwards in localized spots that are bumpy. It levels the ground or aggregate before the tractors tires. That way the plane is not lifted in the air by bumps the tractor runs over when going forward. My plane has cutting edges for going backwards so maybe it's not so much a trick as it's designed so it could work that way.
One note to mention is you should be using the other side of the land plane (the side with the blade further back) on the lawn side so you have more of a "box" to contain the gravel so it doesn't spoil out into the lawn. Hope that helps.
New 1025r owner here, I have watch many of your video's ( lot's of good info! ) I want to get a land plane and was thinking a 5 footer would work but now I think I should go with a 4 footer?? I also wanted to pass along to you that a set of magnet mount mirrors I got off Ebay work great when using my 4 foot york rake and save a stiff neck looking back while raking my driveway. Keep the videos coming Thanks!!
Also the hydraulic top link is such a game changer !!!! Not everyone can afford or use a skid steer and having a small tractor has it's advantages that top link is huge if you are really gonna be using a small tractor for landscaping work like this.
I noticed that you did not plant any sweet corn in your front yard garden area like last summer. I really like that series of ground prep and planting. I know you are very busy. Great video today.
Like you said Tim, separating the lawn from the driveway is a pain after grading. Wide hand rake and walking up and down both sides is the only way I found, hate when I hit stray rocks with the Z Trak blades. Another great vid!
Tim, if you lowered only the right hand side scarifier as deeply as it'll go with the blade not contacting the driveway, could you not use that essentially as an edging tool going up and down the drive encompassing both sides of the driveway (lifting the land plan at the turns obviously!) to create a more defined border between it and the lawn? It's not going to be perfect, but that might be an idea (or perhaps another attachment might be better suited? - in my mind I'm inventing a discing attachment with only a single disc on the outside...) Great video as always!
yes he could do that. but, it only works good when he stays on the driveway edge. lol 😅 Tim every time you wondered off your drive and left gravel in the yard. I would yell at the screen and say now your wife will hate you when she mows the yard.😆 EDIT: I used my landplane to smooth out about an acre after tilling it all. needed to smooth it out after getting my pole building built, worked great!
what about using a york rake? you can use that rake both ways. you can dig in with it, and then turn it around and smooth it out. don't know if you have one. gotta use what you have.
Hello Tim, I truly enjoy your very instructive videos. In fact it was your comparison between the JD1025r and the Kubota that made me choose the 1025R more than 3 years ago. I never looked back since and I always have the big silly grin every time I use my 1025R. I also enjoy your other videos about the 2 and 3 series and that electric tractor, but I don't really relate to them like I do when you have a video featuring the 1025R. My gravel driveway is only about 100 feet long and yes the weeds are growing in it like there is no tomorrow, I don't have a land plane. Does that implement that look like a piece of chain link fence with teeth would also work? I think it could really "scratch off" the weeds. Keep up the good work and God bless you and your lovely wife.
AmericanHarrow.com use code ttwt. Yes, nice tool. Might not be quite aggressive enough. You CAN put weight on it…like a palletC etc to make it even more aggressive. We have videos on the harrow.
Hey Tim, have seen your pickup in the backdrop of some recent videos and it got me wondering how do you like the gasser....do you miss the power stroke or are you happy you went back to gas. Would like and update video!!
Thank you for great information as always. I will be watching for videos of loader attachments, I hope they add. Wanting a stump bucket for my 2038r you talked me into.
I realize tractor basics is a sponsor , but how about tractor basics episodes? Get back to basics on common attachments for us weekend tractor warriors that want to learn to use our basic attachments better? Just a thought. Great episode!
I am still looking for a good border between grass and gravel as well. I thought about trying RR timbers and giving them a coat of used motor oil every year but thats a lot of maintenance. I had the BH out yesterday putting the edge back into my driveway. Also time consuming, but it does a great job
Advice I found somewhere was to go slow when breaking up the road surface with scarifiers. After that raise up the scarifiers and increase speed to finish spread/get material flowing out the back. Seems to work for me. I would caution less is more, I put my scarifiers all the way down and pulled up some road base. Don't start out to aggressive.
When first grading dirt for driveway is to top with fine gravel not washed so the limestone powder creates an hard concrete type base then after a few rains and an leveling add top base of gravel
I completely agree that gravel driveways where they meet the road are always the hardest part to maintain. Front wheel drive cars spin sometimes causing holes to constantly fill back in. Plus people running off the road across your driveway kicking gravel out in the road. I try to keep that out of the road because ours is in a slight curve and I'd hate for a motorcycle to slide and wreck.
I enjoy that same alone thinking time while mowing. Not only is mowing on a tractor of any size rewarding, but just a moment to be enjoying the process and get away from the stresses of life. So if you get a land plane with scarifiers, can you bypass the expense of a box blade altogether?
Thank you for the detailed example. I am a visual learner and seeing it done makes all the difference. The land plane has been one of those items I just can't bring myself to buy because of it being such a one trick pony. That being said, when it comes to grading my driveway, my box blade does the job but with a lot more adjustment to angle gravel back to the center. It's almost impossible to do in contrast to how easy a land plane is. I guess I'll have to just purchase one if I want simplicity. It kinda reminds me of my "Snap-On" tools. One tool just can't do every job! What I have been giving serious consideration to is the ABI TR3 landscape rake. The cost is more expensive but for my needs would perform multiple functions. Have you ever worked with one?
You have the same problem I have with a gravel driveway. Trying to keep the gravel and the grass separate from each other. I think it is a little easier using the bax blade than the land plane for that issue. But, I like the end result on the driveway with the landplane. Plus, it is easier to use. If you ever come up with a good way to create a nice straight division between grass and gravel, let me know:)
Couple more pointers. When you’re looking to get rid of potholes in your driveway, the only way to get rid of them is to start back from them and actually cut them out. Just filling them with rocks only solves the issue short term. Also, I put an almost unnoticeable crown in my gravel driveway, but when I blow snow or plow in the winter I’d you’re not careful you catch the crown and make quite a mess
My driveway is maybe a 1000yds long, so I dont have the depth of gravel you have, at least currently. I use a Drag Harrow to resurface it, and bring the gravel up to the surface. Like you say, the more you do it, the better it looks. I have a tank sprayer with a boom that lets me spray weed killer on my whole driveway on two passes. The Harrow does a good job removing weeds, and resurfacing and after I began using one I havent had to actually buy gravel in 3 years. I used to have to do that every year.
Im gonna have to get a harrow I get it close with the box blade and landscape rake but always end up with ripples the bonus less hand work more seat time and tunes
Nice looking plane. Their parent company Skid Steer Solutions, Bellingham, WA, has been around for a while. Looking at the website, though, I can't find anything that says specifically where this product is made. I did find a reference to a distribution center in TN but nothing about manufacturing except "Midwest". Maybe a follow up episode with more info about the company and even a road trip to the factory would make interesting content.
"The challenge comes"....when you look back to find you've been dragging a 6" wide stone for the last 100 yards....lol BTW...I know I am a year late, but going backwards with the land plane is a good way to do the end of your driveway, and also going backwards is a good way to put a finish run on the driveway as well.
I have a 1023E and am considering a 6' land plane without rippers. I already have a smaller box blade with rippers if I need that. What are your thoughts?
I haven’t bought a land plane yet I don’t have a long driveway or enough long driveway jobs or big parking lots to justify one yet I use my box blade to scarify and move rock where it fill in holes and low places then I finish up running my grader blade backwards over the driveway or gravel parking lot to get any lines or bare spots out and finish up my final grade
Hey Tim been watching your videos for while. I am think about a John Deere garden tractor like 755 model a loader. Do you know if any are available. Thanks
❤When you first started using the land plane, you commeted that it was pulling the rock away and it was leaving just the dirt. You can backfill using the land plane. Just lower thr plane and back up. This allows the plane to push the rock over the dirt that had been pulled away. If you have any idea how to get rid of the lines in the rock after using the plane.
@@TractorTimewithTim I’ll have to try that next time I resurface. I’ve always used 411, it packs well but is really dusty when dry and gets slimy when wet.
Plant a border of monkey grass (lariope). It will be easy to mow under in the yard side and make a perfect border on the driveway side. It’s a slow spreader but your land plane will get that.
The link to Tractor Basics doesn't seem to work also it is http not https which is not secure. I have to think the link may not be correct as it got flagged as Malware with my DNS provider. Just curious if you can confirm the link in the description is correct. Thanks Tim for the great videos.
This is the best demonstration of a land plane I have ever viewed. You know what makes it so great? You demonstrated the application of the product as you narrated the video unlike most videos that talk for 20 minutes and demonstrate the application of the product for 5 minutes. You have a like & subscribe from me.
Welcome. Thanks for subscribing.
Been running my second hand Everything Attachments land plane behind the Ford 5000 for about 5 years now. Agree with just about everything you said, but want to comment. Some of my comments might be because my machine, land plane, and power are FAR above the 1025R you were running, but take it for the spirit in which it is given.
1968 Ford 5000. Roughly 60hp, 9000lbs. Land Plane is a 7' Everything Attachments and weighs about 1000lbs.
My driveway was a base of mixed stone and stone dust. I've since added a stone layer to the top, but the stone dust comes up a lot. I also have neighbors who don't understand that driving through any standing water makes a hole. They also think the smooth surface is grounds to do 30+ mph down the road. So, since I can't seem to change their behaviors, I have to keep repairing the damage. (oh darn, more Tractor Time for Chris)
I start by retracting my top link and doing 10+ passes with the scarifiers ripping the heck out of the hard pack. If I don't do this, it can take many passes before the blades really fill up, While it sounds like I'm doing more passes, the 10 or so just ripping can go much faster than the full box. When full, my land plane is 7' wide, about 30" long, and 20" high. It's a lot of material that is moved. Like you, I routinely move material and dump it in low areas.
The hardest part is the final grade. When material is spilling over the blades, it tends to create small clumps. This isn't all that noticeable until you drive on it and feel the ripple effect. To do the final, I use the top link to angle the grader so that the rear is lifted, the rear blade is barely touching the ground. This allows the front blade to spread and then the rear just sheers off the clumps. It's a delicate adjustment, but once you get it the finish is a 3 pass (up and back 3 times) effort. In all, I can smooth out the 1/4 mile in about 40 minutes.
As for the ends, I've become really good at lifting the land plane slowly and letting the gravel spread out over a long area. During the final grading I use this method to layer in at both ends. It's not perfect, but it's pretty good.
The key is to not let pot holes get deep. Unless your scarifiers or blade can reach the bottom of the hole, you will still have that hole there when cars finish compacting the surface - just shallow. If that is the case, you do it again soon to eliminate the holes.
Also, by grading more often, I keep the rocks on top and that reduces the dust a lot. I can easily tell when I've let it go by the dust clouds being kicked up by vehicles.
I just bought an 84'" Bush Hog driveway grader, best thing ever for driveway maintenance. I used to use a grader blade but this is so much better.
You're a rock star!
I continue to enjoy your videos. This one is packed with information for anyone willing to learn use of equipment.
Very good video Tim. I've watched several videos comparing box blade versus land plane. Your's is by far the best land plane tutorial I've seen. Land plane it is for our driveway. Thanks!
Check out TractorBasics.com with code ttwt. Lots of land plane for the money.
Just love your videos, Tim. Have been watching about 3 years, first time commenting. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for watching!
Tim, I loved this as it confirms that I am doing it right. But my hard pack road base does not flow as easily as your gravel over a mile long drive with lots of slopes and turns.
Christy rode a bike back and forth while filming. Wow what a trooper.
I use a dirt pulveriser to break up the hard pack on my driveway and it works pretty good. The scarifiers leave lines though that dissappear after a week or two of driving on my driveway...
Also try doing it if there is a light rain or the ground is soft awhile after it does rain that will help big time ! I used to grade the lot at the tow yard and it was hard as hell. But when the ground has some water in it and on it it will come around
I had a TOP n' TILT installed 5-6 yrs ago (Kioti CK35 HST). They don't hold position very well, especially the top link. I will get one you suggest. I maintain a community lane 1/2+ mi but it needs rock (3/4 minus). Trying to get 1/2 dozen people to pay for it is a challenge! I might mention running your land plane in reverse (driving backwards) helps smooth it out. Thank you for your vids. Appreciatively, Frosty
I've been enjoying every episode. Just great, simple, and easy to watch and understand mini-lessons. Keep up the great work. I look forward to the next episode.
I just got a 5’ land plane with rippers. My 2025R does a nice job using all 4 rippers. I just can’t drop them down too far to start.
Thanks for sharing this video. I used mine for the first time last week and ran into all the things you showed.
So glad i bought my Woods grading scraper when i got my massey! When I get the rock pulled up after a while I'll do a lot of backing to pile it up around garages and the end near the street then back drag with my bucket to finish it. Also a garden rake will make it perfect. I recently used mine to fix a cemetary because it is so bad you drag your car driving through it.
I have the same driveway situation. I also use a land plane. After you are done with the land plane, take a chain drag mat and run over it several times. The drag may will knock down the ridges and make the driveway smooth as glass! I bought my chain drag from tractor supply. They also work very well for seeding a yard. Well worth the money
Mentioned the harrow near the end.
Great lesson. Thanks Tim and Christie!
Those are a great tool for driveways. As you pointed out they are forgiving and do a nice job. I see Christy’s got a new way of getting around😉. Nice job as always, and the audio continues to impress. Blessings.
Eagle eye :-)
WOW this camera work is absolutely amazing!!!
Thanks!
Love the demo, the content, channel, and commentary
Thanks for the kind words! 1000+ episodes for you to ‘catch up on’
@@TractorTimewithTim I can do that sir.... Is that a challenge?
@@aaronburford5701I think it might be enjoyable to start at the beginning and watch our progress through the years.
@@TractorTimewithTim Great suggestion and I will start to do that... I have enjoyed your channel and your commentary and have learned a lot. I learned about your channel when I watched Neil with the best yard and driveway on UA-cam! I'll keep you posted on my progress and you will see my comments and questions!
You’re driveway looks good Tim
Driveway is looking very nice. I looks like you’re widening it a little with each pass.
Great video Tim, love these how to videos. The land plane is for sure a favorite implement of mine as well.
Love the box blade process.
LETS GET STARTED great video
A simple job that requires a lot of seat time? Sign me up! This almost makes me wish I had a gravel drive.
Good tips & tricks! Nice land plane attachment, the driveway turned out great.
Definitely need a land plane for my driveway! Until that time i shall use your dirt pulverizer!!! Luv ya's from Kentucky!!!
I personally use the "feathering" approach for starting/ stopping. Instead of just dropping it or quickly raising it. I go gradual in increments to taper the cut on a start or on a stop to gradually dump material out.
I guess I wshould of waited on commenting, since you showed it at the last 3 min of the video.
I’m still not satisfied with my inability to ‘start’ without leaving a long bare area.
@@TractorTimewithTim I guess the only way to satisfy yourself with overcoming creating bare spots is to start at the high spots and feather it down. After all that is what it was designed to do, you just have to help it getting started by starting where your material is at its deepest. And end at its lowest.
Great video Tim! :)
Thanks!
I can agree that while a box blade can grade a driveway, a land plane is the cats meow for gravel work. Also I like to use mine in reverse to spread out new gravel its works great that way too
Would be interesting to see some dirt work/leveling with the land plane
Great video!
Great video, thank you for sharing 😀
I have used a land plane a lot to level baseball fields. So much that I wore out the skid shoes under the side skirts. Another trick is to run the attachment backwards in localized spots that are bumpy. It levels the ground or aggregate before the tractors tires. That way the plane is not lifted in the air by bumps the tractor runs over when going forward. My plane has cutting edges for going backwards so maybe it's not so much a trick as it's designed so it could work that way.
Can I use the land plane on my tilled up yard to smooth it out?
One note to mention is you should be using the other side of the land plane (the side with the blade further back) on the lawn side so you have more of a "box" to contain the gravel so it doesn't spoil out into the lawn. Hope that helps.
Excellent !
New 1025r owner here, I have watch many of your video's ( lot's of good info! ) I want to get a land plane and was thinking a 5 footer would work but now I think I should go with a 4 footer?? I also wanted to pass along to you that a set of magnet mount mirrors I got off Ebay work great when using my 4 foot york rake and save a stiff neck looking back while raking my driveway. Keep the videos coming Thanks!!
I still like the 5’. Check out TractorBasics.com use code ttwt for a 10% discount.
Also the hydraulic top link is such a game changer !!!! Not everyone can afford or use a skid steer and having a small tractor has it's advantages that top link is huge if you are really gonna be using a small tractor for landscaping work like this.
I just bought a 60” with scarifiers , Landpride version of this for my kubota B2301. My road looks awesome.
Reversing with land plane will help knock down piles without digging in. Leaving a nice smooth finish.
I noticed that you did not plant any sweet corn in your front yard garden area like last summer. I really like that series of ground prep and planting. I know you are very busy. Great video today.
I use my three point hitch height adjustment to feather out the gravel. At the end I use a drag harrow to smooth out everything.
Like you said Tim, separating the lawn from the driveway is a pain after grading.
Wide hand rake and walking up and down both sides is the only way I found, hate when I hit stray rocks with the Z Trak blades.
Another great vid!
Tim, if you lowered only the right hand side scarifier as deeply as it'll go with the blade not contacting the driveway, could you not use that essentially as an edging tool going up and down the drive encompassing both sides of the driveway (lifting the land plan at the turns obviously!) to create a more defined border between it and the lawn? It's not going to be perfect, but that might be an idea (or perhaps another attachment might be better suited? - in my mind I'm inventing a discing attachment with only a single disc on the outside...) Great video as always!
yes he could do that. but, it only works good when he stays on the driveway edge. lol 😅
Tim every time you wondered off your drive and left gravel in the yard. I would yell at the screen and say now your wife will hate you when she mows the yard.😆
EDIT: I used my landplane to smooth out about an acre after tilling it all. needed to smooth it out after getting my pole building built, worked great!
what about using a york rake? you can use that rake both ways. you can dig in with it, and then turn it around and smooth it out. don't know if you have one. gotta use what you have.
I was just going to challenge Tim to work his driveway with a York rake as a comparison. I love mine.
We have been using a landscape rake for years. One of the most underrated implements in my mind
Hello Tim, I truly enjoy your very instructive videos. In fact it was your comparison between the JD1025r and the Kubota that made me choose the 1025R more than 3 years ago. I never looked back since and I always have the big silly grin every time I use my 1025R.
I also enjoy your other videos about the 2 and 3 series and that electric tractor, but I don't really relate to them like I do when you have a video featuring the 1025R.
My gravel driveway is only about 100 feet long and yes the weeds are growing in it like there is no tomorrow, I don't have a land plane. Does that implement that look like a piece of chain link fence with teeth would also work? I think it could really "scratch off" the weeds.
Keep up the good work and God bless you and your lovely wife.
AmericanHarrow.com use code ttwt.
Yes, nice tool. Might not be quite aggressive enough.
You CAN put weight on it…like a palletC etc to make it even more aggressive. We have videos on the harrow.
tim now you need to use a landscape rake to get the rock out of your grass and back in the driveway. good video
Hey Tim, have seen your pickup in the backdrop of some recent videos and it got me wondering how do you like the gasser....do you miss the power stroke or are you happy you went back to gas. Would like and update video!!
Hate the gasser!
Interesting! Would be curious to hear why in another short video maybe? Which engine does your truck have?
Great video. I was gunna suggest a harrow.
Thank you for great information as always. I will be watching for videos of loader attachments, I hope they add. Wanting a stump bucket for my 2038r you talked me into.
Take a look at the Artillian.com stump bucket.
I realize tractor basics is a sponsor , but how about tractor basics episodes? Get back to basics on common attachments for us weekend tractor warriors that want to learn to use our basic attachments better? Just a thought. Great episode!
That is the intent.
So what is more of a all in one tool for a small tractor 1025r? Land plane or a box blade? This is exactly what I need to do to my gravel driveway.
I thought I answered that indirectly. Box blade more all in one. Land Plane better for this specific job.
I am still looking for a good border between grass and gravel as well. I thought about trying RR timbers and giving them a coat of used motor oil every year but thats a lot of maintenance. I had the BH out yesterday putting the edge back into my driveway. Also time consuming, but it does a great job
Advice I found somewhere was to go slow when breaking up the road surface with scarifiers. After that raise up the scarifiers and increase speed to finish spread/get material flowing out the back. Seems to work for me. I would caution less is more, I put my scarifiers all the way down and pulled up some road base. Don't start out to aggressive.
Tim, what’s your thoughts on the new Frontier land planes?
When first grading dirt for driveway is to top with fine gravel not washed so the limestone powder creates an hard concrete type base then after a few rains and an leveling add top base of gravel
I completely agree that gravel driveways where they meet the road are always the hardest part to maintain. Front wheel drive cars spin sometimes causing holes to constantly fill back in. Plus people running off the road across your driveway kicking gravel out in the road. I try to keep that out of the road because ours is in a slight curve and I'd hate for a motorcycle to slide and wreck.
I enjoy that same alone thinking time while mowing. Not only is mowing on a tractor of any size rewarding, but just a moment to be enjoying the process and get away from the stresses of life.
So if you get a land plane with scarifiers, can you bypass the expense of a box blade altogether?
For the driveway, probably
Thank you for the detailed example. I am a visual learner and seeing it done makes all the difference. The land plane has been one of those items I just can't bring myself to buy because of it being such a one trick pony. That being said, when it comes to grading my driveway, my box blade does the job but with a lot more adjustment to angle gravel back to the center. It's almost impossible to do in contrast to how easy a land plane is. I guess I'll have to just purchase one if I want simplicity. It kinda reminds me of my "Snap-On" tools. One tool just can't do every job! What I have been giving serious consideration to is the ABI TR3 landscape rake. The cost is more expensive but for my needs would perform multiple functions. Have you ever worked with one?
I have not.
You have the same problem I have with a gravel driveway. Trying to keep the gravel and the grass separate from each other. I think it is a little easier using the bax blade than the land plane for that issue. But, I like the end result on the driveway with the landplane. Plus, it is easier to use. If you ever come up with a good way to create a nice straight division between grass and gravel, let me know:)
Nice video tim. From gary
I have been wanting to get a land plane for a long time.
Now is your chance! This is a good one at a very competitive price.
A drag harrow is also decent at pulling thatch, sticks, and other debris to the surface if pulled over your yard.
Couple more pointers. When you’re looking to get rid of potholes in your driveway, the only way to get rid of them is to start back from them and actually cut them out. Just filling them with rocks only solves the issue short term. Also, I put an almost unnoticeable crown in my gravel driveway, but when I blow snow or plow in the winter I’d you’re not careful you catch the crown and make quite a mess
Nice
My driveway is maybe a 1000yds long, so I dont have the depth of gravel you have, at least currently. I use a Drag Harrow to resurface it, and bring the gravel up to the surface. Like you say, the more you do it, the better it looks. I have a tank sprayer with a boom that lets me spray weed killer on my whole driveway on two passes. The Harrow does a good job removing weeds, and resurfacing and after I began using one I havent had to actually buy gravel in 3 years. I used to have to do that every year.
Im gonna have to get a harrow I get it close with the box blade and landscape rake but always end up with ripples the bonus less hand work more seat time and tunes
Nice looking plane. Their parent company Skid Steer Solutions, Bellingham, WA, has been around for a while. Looking at the website, though, I can't find anything that says specifically where this product is made. I did find a reference to a distribution center in TN but nothing about manufacturing except "Midwest". Maybe a follow up episode with more info about the company and even a road trip to the factory would make interesting content.
TN
WHAT SIZE ROCK TO YOU RECOMMEND FOR DRIVEWAY? THANKS FOR ALL YOUR INFO.
3/4” washed stone (no dust)
Another reminder I need a hydraulic top link! Land plane also works well backing up to smooth out the gravel.
How can you keep those skids from digging into the ground? Can you adjust the depth of the blades?
When going straight, they don't dig in at all...they just ride along on top...."skidding along".
When turning with it down, they do tend to dig in.
"The challenge comes"....when you look back to find you've been dragging a 6" wide stone for the last 100 yards....lol
BTW...I know I am a year late, but going backwards with the land plane is a good way to do the end of your driveway, and also going backwards is a good way to put a finish run on the driveway as well.
Sounds like it’s time for a mini road grader!
Kool.
Hey Tim what headset do you guys use to talk to each other!
Stihl Advance Procom
@@TractorTimewithTimthank you love the videos
I have a 1023E and am considering a 6' land plane without rippers. I already have a smaller box blade with rippers if I need that. What are your thoughts?
I think you’ll find it too large.
What did you do to prep for the stone? Looking to put in a driveway similar to this. Did you use any plastic or fabric underneath? Or just fill dirt?
Nope. Dumped the rock on the dirt.
Was Christy riding an ebike to film some of this video? It looked like some kind of bike.
Where is “Minnie Pearl “ and her pitch fork. She needs a wide brim hat with flowers since she gets left in the sun for all these videos.
Great job.
I watched the summit craptor yahoo on another channel try to do this with a 24” wide land plane stall out with 20 rocks in the plane.
Can this tractor basics also work with cat 2 in addition to cat 1.
Most cat2 can handle cat1 attachments as long as you add bushings.
do you like this one or the front loader heavy hitch land plane you did better and why? In Battleboro NC, sorry about your FIL dying.
FIL is still alive.
I very much like the heavy hitch front land leveler!
Tractor Teacher Time with a Tim
What class of gravel is that? In Canada, we have stuff called class A. Looks like that until it rains, then dust washes off, and it looks blue.
It is white here because it is limestone.
I use mine all the time 1/4 mile long gravel driveway needed more than just a box blade.
I haven’t bought a land plane yet I don’t have a long driveway or enough long driveway jobs or big parking lots to justify one yet I use my box blade to scarify and move rock where it fill in holes and low places then I finish up running my grader blade backwards over the driveway or gravel parking lot to get any lines or bare spots out and finish up my final grade
I wondered at the beginning of the video if you were filming from an e-bike.
Great video Tim. What is Christy following you around on?
We’ll show it in a few weeks :-)
You can see it in the background at the 12:58 mark.
@@garymeyer3294 Uhoh! :-)
Good for Christy! Cool tech for behind the scenes work!
Hey Tim been watching your videos for while. I am think about a John Deere garden tractor like 755 model a loader. Do you know if any are available. Thanks
❤When you first started using the land plane, you commeted that it was pulling the rock away and it was leaving just the dirt. You can backfill using the land plane. Just lower thr plane and back up. This allows the plane to push the rock over the dirt that had been pulled away. If you have any idea how to get rid of the lines in the rock after using the plane.
You noted that after this work the driveway will put less mud on your vehicle… what about dust? Is it less dusty?
Yes, I think so.
its been a while...(harvest,school etc...) but now iam back.:)
What is your preference to top a driveway, 411, 57, or something else?
#73’s for base, then #8’s on top.
@@TractorTimewithTim I’ll have to try that next time I resurface. I’ve always used 411, it packs well but is really dusty when dry and gets slimy when wet.
Plant a border of monkey grass (lariope). It will be easy to mow under in the yard side and make a perfect border on the driveway side. It’s a slow spreader but your land plane will get that.
I haven’t been able to bring myself to pay for a Landplane. For a couple hunks of steel, they all seem priced like they are a mechanical attachment.
You forgot main reason to do the driveway. Wife ordered it!
Is Tractor Basics now called Skid Steer Solutions?
Same company. Tractorbasics is the brand they use for tractor attachments.
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The link to Tractor Basics doesn't seem to work also it is http not https which is not secure. I have to think the link may not be correct as it got flagged as Malware with my DNS provider. Just curious if you can confirm the link in the description is correct. Thanks Tim for the great videos.
It will switch to https, and it redirects.
TractorBasics.com
@@TractorTimewithTim Thanks Tim. I believe I had a browser redirect issue.
LEFT SIDE HIGHER FOR CROWN
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