I had gooey results exactly like this with Phrozen Nylon Green. Thus far its been wildly impressive. I'm willing to bet it would survive the impact test easily and would snap at extreme pinch only. Caveat I've never really tested it in cold weather so ymmv.
I used to print Casio watch adapter using Siraya tech Blu Nylon Black resin when I started my etsy shop, but I got many complains that the adapters broken in short period of time. I switched to Anycubic ABS-like Pro 2, and I never have complains since after. Siraya tech Blu Nylon Black costed me $45 a bottle while Anycubic ABS-like Pro 2 costs me $21 a bottle. Ironically Anycubic resin in my experience is much better than that Siraya resin that I once had faith with. I still have couple bottles of Siraya tech Blu Nylon Black resin I have no idea what to do with them. Now thanks to your video I can try mixing them with Anycubic ABS-like Pro 2 to see if I can use them without wasting.
Hi, in your experiences of printing Siraya Tech Blue Nylon Black, is it normal to have slow lift speed? I am using 33mm/min. I have a Anycubic mono M3. Thanks.
I think it’s important to consider application of each resin. I use anycubic for my connector parts but I use siraya tech for things that require impact resistance mainly hair clipper moving parts.
Most resin i buy i get specifically to mix. Brittle bad. I think your exposure time issue is due to the UV SLIGHTLY geling up the resin through light bleed. The transparent resin does allow the uv to penetrate into the vat outside where you want it to cure up on the model.
Me too. I can't figure it out. It's the only resin I've ever had that problem with and I've been using lots of different resins, on three different printers.
I think I'm going to get the any cubic ultra tough to use for tecco toys mecha figures. Was gonna try siryatech blu nylon but this video disuaded me for sure
@@trollpaintingminis4496 I'm glad that was helpful. You may have already seen this, but I did a video on the Anycubic Tough Ultra. It's definitely worth a try if you need something super tough. ua-cam.com/video/u6vqb5tQAGU/v-deo.html
Blu is a great resin, but it's not as flexible as some Tough resins out there. I was using it exclusively for a couple of years and recently switched to Sunlu ABS and Tough. As far as your curing in the vat, I've never had that, and I've left Blu in the vat for months in-between uses. I suspect Siraya Tech is right, it's largely your exposure settings. Run a calibration test like the Cones and see what they tell you. I used to always just use manufacturer suggested settings and had all sorts of inconsistent results. Now, I calibrate everything, and the results are night and day better. Nearly zero failures since starting that and very good dimensional accuracy. For you, the over exposure could be causing bleed/bloom and curing resin near the masked area. I imagine with a transparent resin, this is only more crucial.
@@ColinKlupiec I print in a sunny room with my mars 2. Ive added a printed handle to top of the lid so its easy to lift one handed and have put a cardboard box with the bottom and a side cut away, as well as a slot at the top for the added handle to protrude through. I keep the open side facing away from the window and have sometimes had resin sitting in the vat for months without issue, just need to mix the separated resin in the vat up using a silicone spatula before printing again. The stock covers resin printers come with are probably good against limited ambient light but i figured that some no cost light proofing just made sense. Thanks for putting up your vids about hardy and mixed resins, im just about to print some stuff that needs to survive, RC parts, so its been very informative :)
I've had the same resin issues with my D2 but with monocure's range of resin. Anycubic brand works fine, but I need to crank up the exposure times when using other brands. odd.
So far it’s the only resin I’ve had issues with. Siraya Tech reckon they’ve got an improved version called Blu Lava Black. I’ll be testing that soon. BTW, the D2 is still my favourite printer. I’d rather pay more and have a DLP over LCD any day.
I had gooey results exactly like this with Phrozen Nylon Green. Thus far its been wildly impressive. I'm willing to bet it would survive the impact test easily and would snap at extreme pinch only. Caveat I've never really tested it in cold weather so ymmv.
That's interesting. I'm yet to dive into the world of Phrozen resins. I'll put it on the list...😀
I used to print Casio watch adapter using Siraya tech Blu Nylon Black resin when I started my etsy shop, but I got many complains that the adapters broken in short period of time. I switched to Anycubic ABS-like Pro 2, and I never have complains since after. Siraya tech Blu Nylon Black costed me $45 a bottle while Anycubic ABS-like Pro 2 costs me $21 a bottle. Ironically Anycubic resin in my experience is much better than that Siraya resin that I once had faith with. I still have couple bottles of Siraya tech Blu Nylon Black resin I have no idea what to do with them. Now thanks to your video I can try mixing them with Anycubic ABS-like Pro 2 to see if I can use them without wasting.
Glad the video was helpful. I was also wondering how to get value from the resin I had left over. Now I’ve been able to use it all without wasting it.
Hi, in your experiences of printing Siraya Tech Blue Nylon Black, is it normal to have slow lift speed? I am using 33mm/min. I have a Anycubic mono M3. Thanks.
I think it’s important to consider application of each resin. I use anycubic for my connector parts but I use siraya tech for things that require impact resistance mainly hair clipper moving parts.
Thanks for adding your experience. I’m testing Antinsky High Tough Resin and AmeraLabs TGM-7 at the moment. Videos out soon.
What’s your wash and cure process for this mix?
IPA wash for 3min, and then cure for 5min. Same process I use for all my prints. Works well. 😀
@@ColinKlupiecHave you cured your parts submerged in warm water or at higher temperatures like >120°F?
Most resin i buy i get specifically to mix. Brittle bad. I think your exposure time issue is due to the UV SLIGHTLY geling up the resin through light bleed. The transparent resin does allow the uv to penetrate into the vat outside where you want it to cure up on the model.
Yes, I think you’re right. I’ll be testing some other clear resins very soon and it will be interesting to see if I get the same issues.
@@ColinKlupiec It's fun to play around with. And sketchy at the same time. I'm always nervous i'm going to crack my glass from a failure.
Im really curious as to whats going on with that curing in the vat. Ive never had that before with anycubic or elegoo and ive been printing for years
Me too. I can't figure it out. It's the only resin I've ever had that problem with and I've been using lots of different resins, on three different printers.
I think I'm going to get the any cubic ultra tough to use for tecco toys mecha figures. Was gonna try siryatech blu nylon but this video disuaded me for sure
@@trollpaintingminis4496 I'm glad that was helpful. You may have already seen this, but I did a video on the Anycubic Tough Ultra. It's definitely worth a try if you need something super tough. ua-cam.com/video/u6vqb5tQAGU/v-deo.html
Blu is a great resin, but it's not as flexible as some Tough resins out there. I was using it exclusively for a couple of years and recently switched to Sunlu ABS and Tough.
As far as your curing in the vat, I've never had that, and I've left Blu in the vat for months in-between uses. I suspect Siraya Tech is right, it's largely your exposure settings. Run a calibration test like the Cones and see what they tell you. I used to always just use manufacturer suggested settings and had all sorts of inconsistent results. Now, I calibrate everything, and the results are night and day better. Nearly zero failures since starting that and very good dimensional accuracy. For you, the over exposure could be causing bleed/bloom and curing resin near the masked area. I imagine with a transparent resin, this is only more crucial.
Thanks for the info. That’s helpful. 👍
@@ColinKlupiec I print in a sunny room with my mars 2. Ive added a printed handle to top of the lid so its easy to lift one handed and have put a cardboard box with the bottom and a side cut away, as well as a slot at the top for the added handle to protrude through. I keep the open side facing away from the window and have sometimes had resin sitting in the vat for months without issue, just need to mix the separated resin in the vat up using a silicone spatula before printing again.
The stock covers resin printers come with are probably good against limited ambient light but i figured that some no cost light proofing just made sense.
Thanks for putting up your vids about hardy and mixed resins, im just about to print some stuff that needs to survive, RC parts, so its been very informative :)
@@zid_just_zid Great. I'm glad it's been helpful. I'm testing another one at the moment. Video out soon on #antinsky hard tough resin. 😀
I've had the same resin issues with my D2 but with monocure's range of resin. Anycubic brand works fine, but I need to crank up the exposure times when using other brands. odd.
So far it’s the only resin I’ve had issues with. Siraya Tech reckon they’ve got an improved version called Blu Lava Black. I’ll be testing that soon. BTW, the D2 is still my favourite printer. I’d rather pay more and have a DLP over LCD any day.
@ColinKlupiec Same here, even though I got the new fancy Saturn 4 ultra, I still turn the my little blue D2 when I need a prefect print.
I mix Sunlu ABS and Phrozen ABS and it comes out amazing and lowers over cost.
Is the Sunlu stronger than the Prozen resin on its own?
Thanks for the tip.