I cannot imagine giving Lyle crap for using an L pick to poke at a cap lead. Lyle is one of the finest techs in the western hemisphere. I think he knows what he is doing. 12 inches of wire is a pretty good sized antenna. In between repairs am making my own SMPS pedal board power supply with regulated positive and regulated negative voltage isolated outputs. Strymon, eat your heart out! I like Strymon a lot, but I own a few oddball effects that run on + DC gnd & - DC power ranging from +8VDC ground -8VDC to +18VDC ground -18 VDC. I have access to +48 VDC & -48VDC. It switches at 90KHz, using left over rocks (crystal oscillators) from my days fixing Willi Studer's transport mechanisms.
Great video as usual Lyle you are the Man I’ve learned so much from your channel especially the amps to stay away from thanks to your videos I can now make better amp buying decisions and I thank you for that.
I've mostly been a fan & user of Fender type amps but the more Marshall style amps videos of yours I watch, the more I'm interested in them. Thanks for the great content.
As a new subscriber, I have noticed many questions are due to failure to watch or comprehend the video. I’m learning and appreciate these videos. My only question is for the manufacturers, if these fixes are known to the repair experts, why can’t you make the necessary adjustments to your products?
@@RozsaAmplificationLLC I guess, since all four-holer marshalls have all those extra inputs that require the resistors on the jack to avoid multiple cables. It would be 4 cables instead of 2 going to the first tube. But yeah, it would be much better with just a single channel at 34k, where you would only have one shielded wire from the jack to a resistor on the socket. And then a switch later in the circuit to turn the extra gain stage on/off.
started watching your videos the other day i think your the best i've seen on youtube. i wath d-lab to i heard you say your out of Memphis i used to be on the road for years played with a guy from Memphis his name is Kevin Carson he played with a Band Carson & Pool and the Mudpuppies i recorded wit him in Mcomb Ms at Roland James Studio in the early 90's he told me about Shawn Lane great guitarist. you do great work and you care about your work did you used to made pedals i remember a well known guitarist on youtube talk about your pedals i could be wrong i think it was dave Grisom love your channel take care
Is there a sweet spot for the Ch2 volume? Perhaps form a permanent fixed voltage divider and then rewire the volume controls as per the 2203? Gain & pre PI MV. For stock plexi just dime the MV, for cascaded mode you’ve then got the MV to control the volume
I've been looking for an opportunity to ask a rookie question. Do you know where I can buy single conductor, shielded, 20 through 26 gauge wire? I'd prefer not to buy 100'. Or maybe the types of local places I can try in a small-sized city? I'm building a lookalike K&K, 3 disk piezo for acoustic guitar, on-the-cheap, or at least wasting some time on an experiment. Thanks, I enjoy your videos.
As it says in the video, next come the final voicing tweaks. This video covered replacing the bad volume pot, lowering the noise floor, and finding/fixing that bad cathode connection. Now we have a solid foundation on which to build.
Why are you/the customer asking to modify the amp?? I mean, it's a limited edition amp and worth money....if kept stock! You can always put back to stock, but not sure why changing. If customer is looking for "their tone" and not Randy's.....tweak a cheap-ass Marshall 2203 or SLP platform! Part of the Rhoads tone is that aggressive 4.7n bright cap. Yeah, sounds like some microphonic preamp tube in there. Looks like also, you bypassed the balancing pot and just soldered them direct. Would be better is you used 1% or .1% resistors and metal rather than 5%+ carbons and if you're not using the trimmer which would be used for exactly that and getting the 2 sides of the resistor to similar values and balancing out for lowest amount of hummmmmmmm.
Equinox, the balancing resistors are supposed to be able to burn if a tube shorts high voltage to the heaters, thereby protecting the transformer secondary. Carbon film resistors work fine for that, as long as they are elevated up off the board (so as not to scorch the board or adjacent parts ---- and anyway, carbon film resistors don't contain much flammable material compared to say carbon-comp resistors). Metal film resistors would likely take too long to burn out in the event of a tube short, and won't function as fuses.. You could buy special "fusible" resistors at increased cost, but to what advantage? Besides which, the preamp tubes all have center-tapped heaters, but it's unlikely that all those heaters are going to be within a few percent of each other in terms of their "hot" resistance, and therefore the voltage and current through each will be a little different; and so using 1% resistors is unlikely to make that big an improvement in the heater-hum level. The hum-balance adjustment pot is great for Hifi amplifiers, but the world of guitar amps is much more prone to intermittent mechanical and electrical connections due to being jostled and bumped around and played at high volume, and so the hum adjust potentiometer is just one more potential failure point that doesn't really need to be there, and won't act as a fuse either. Considering that modern amp designs and excessively high wall voltages often conspire to flog tubes "like rented mules" (to borrow an apt phrase from someone else here), and tube shortages that may lead to substitution with sub-par, unreliable Chinese tubes, heater-balancing resistors that can also act as fuses are pretty much a necessity.
@@goodun2974 If memory serves me, I could not understand why Marshall utilized the hum balancing circuit anyway as the transformer was centertapped and to avoid hum, but not utilized, again if memory serves me, soo just eliminate it all together and use the center tap to balance out the circuit. If Marshall (or anyone) wants to get rid of or keep hummmm to a minimum...do something with the heater dress that is always soo sloppy on Marshall's or better yet, just utilize DC heaters and call it a day! ...but then again, Marshall is not known as the quietest amps, or best tone for that matter, but Jim and Marshall are known as being the King of LOUD (as referenced in this video)!! If you want to keep the tone, but make the output at a managable level....just add a post-tone stack master, soo the preamp circuit is turned up, but you dont kill everyone in the room....especially with this beast! Yes, it's loud...VERY loud.
@@RozsaAmplificationLLC , resistors that can act as fuses is safer for the transformer in case of a shorted tube than having a centertapped heater winding secondary (and putting that centertap in the exact dead electrical center of the heater winding might be tricky). In some cases you probably get a better "balancing" from a pair of resistors than you do from the center tap of the transformer, unless that transformer is made to extremely high tolerances. A DC heater supply is nice but it adds some minor complexity to the amp; better to do all the basics 100% correctly in the first place than to try and fix your construction and layout mistakes by adding more components and more complexity. It has been said that an idiot admires complexity and a genius appreciates simplicity. Also known as the KISS principle ---- no, not the band, where the makeup was more complicated than the uninspiring music ---- ie, Keep It Simple Stupid!
Ignore the trolls. You are a pro - of course the caps are discharged.
I cannot imagine giving Lyle crap for using an L pick to poke at a cap lead. Lyle is one of the finest techs in the western hemisphere. I think he knows what he is doing. 12 inches of wire is a pretty good sized antenna. In between repairs am making my own SMPS pedal board power supply with regulated positive and regulated negative voltage isolated outputs. Strymon, eat your heart out! I like Strymon a lot, but I own a few oddball effects that run on + DC gnd & - DC power ranging from +8VDC ground -8VDC to +18VDC ground -18 VDC. I have access to +48 VDC & -48VDC. It switches at 90KHz, using left over rocks (crystal oscillators) from my days fixing Willi Studer's transport mechanisms.
I’m really having fun and learning much by watching your videos. Thank you!
Great video as usual Lyle you are the Man I’ve learned so much from your channel especially the amps to stay away from thanks to your videos I can now make better amp buying decisions and I thank you for that.
I've mostly been a fan & user of Fender type amps but the more Marshall style amps videos of yours I watch, the more I'm interested in them. Thanks for the great content.
Well Done. I loved the first clean tone.
As a new subscriber, I have noticed many questions are due to failure to watch or comprehend the video. I’m learning and appreciate these videos. My only question is for the manufacturers, if these fixes are known to the repair experts, why can’t you make the necessary adjustments to your products?
"Let me put on the headphones and turn this amp up" 🤘🤘
The grid resistors need to be directly on the sockets to prevent oscillations with this kind of circuit.
yeah, so not sure why Marshall used the 68k/68k dividers and just didn't add a 33k AT THE GRID and call it a day!
@@RozsaAmplificationLLC I guess, since all four-holer marshalls have all those extra inputs that require the resistors on the jack to avoid multiple cables. It would be 4 cables instead of 2 going to the first tube. But yeah, it would be much better with just a single channel at 34k, where you would only have one shielded wire from the jack to a resistor on the socket. And then a switch later in the circuit to turn the extra gain stage on/off.
Now that's my cup 'o tea!
Lighting looks bloody good, mate!
started watching your videos the other day i think your the best i've seen on youtube. i wath d-lab to i heard you say your out of Memphis i used to be on the road for years played with a guy from Memphis his name is Kevin Carson he played with a Band Carson & Pool and the Mudpuppies i recorded wit him in Mcomb Ms at Roland James Studio in the early 90's he told me about Shawn Lane great guitarist. you do great work and you care about your work did you used to made pedals i remember a well known guitarist on youtube talk about your pedals i could be wrong i think it was dave Grisom love your channel take care
I really love your channel. I do a little amp tech work, but go at it very carefully as I’m a novice compared to you.
Great video! I’d love to see Lyle looking at a Badcat USA Series Cub III. I’m super happy with mine, but I’d love some insight on their build quality!
Is there a sweet spot for the Ch2 volume? Perhaps form a permanent fixed voltage divider and then rewire the volume controls as per the 2203? Gain & pre PI MV. For stock plexi just dime the MV, for cascaded mode you’ve then got the MV to control the volume
I was watching the Deluxe Reverb video today and was wondering if the same stuff goes for the Custom 68 Pro Reverb
I've been looking for an opportunity to ask a rookie question.
Do you know where I can buy single conductor, shielded, 20 through 26 gauge wire? I'd prefer not to buy 100'. Or maybe the types of local places I can try in a small-sized city? I'm building a lookalike K&K, 3 disk piezo for acoustic guitar, on-the-cheap, or at least wasting some time on an experiment. Thanks, I enjoy your videos.
😎👍❤🖖
What do you use for "helping hands," Lyle? How do you get under that board for a joint without removing the PCB?
I just use little things to prop boards up. In this case my roll of solder did the trick. I did lift the PCB up for access.
Good job Lyle, amp's singing at the end, too bad ear splitting volume is needed!
I would miss the brightness.
As it says in the video, next come the final voicing tweaks. This video covered replacing the bad volume pot, lowering the noise floor, and finding/fixing that bad cathode connection.
Now we have a solid foundation on which to build.
But if the bright switch is off it is out of circuit. I don't get it, but I guess the customer is always ..."right-ish"
There is no bright switch
Wife and kids must be out and about today, eh?
Why are you/the customer asking to modify the amp?? I mean, it's a limited edition amp and worth money....if kept stock! You can always put back to stock, but not sure why changing. If customer is looking for "their tone" and not Randy's.....tweak a cheap-ass Marshall 2203 or SLP platform! Part of the Rhoads tone is that aggressive 4.7n bright cap.
Yeah, sounds like some microphonic preamp tube in there.
Looks like also, you bypassed the balancing pot and just soldered them direct. Would be better is you used 1% or .1% resistors and metal rather than 5%+ carbons and if you're not using the trimmer which would be used for exactly that and getting the 2 sides of the resistor to similar values and balancing out for lowest amount of hummmmmmmm.
See the first video.
Equinox, the balancing resistors are supposed to be able to burn if a tube shorts high voltage to the heaters, thereby protecting the transformer secondary. Carbon film resistors work fine for that, as long as they are elevated up off the board (so as not to scorch the board or adjacent parts ---- and anyway, carbon film resistors don't contain much flammable material compared to say carbon-comp resistors). Metal film resistors would likely take too long to burn out in the event of a tube short, and won't function as fuses.. You could buy special "fusible" resistors at increased cost, but to what advantage? Besides which, the preamp tubes all have center-tapped heaters, but it's unlikely that all those heaters are going to be within a few percent of each other in terms of their "hot" resistance, and therefore the voltage and current through each will be a little different; and so using 1% resistors is unlikely to make that big an improvement in the heater-hum level. The hum-balance adjustment pot is great for Hifi amplifiers, but the world of guitar amps is much more prone to intermittent mechanical and electrical connections due to being jostled and bumped around and played at high volume, and so the hum adjust potentiometer is just one more potential failure point that doesn't really need to be there, and won't act as a fuse either. Considering that modern amp designs and excessively high wall voltages often conspire to flog tubes "like rented mules" (to borrow an apt phrase from someone else here), and tube shortages that may lead to substitution with sub-par, unreliable Chinese tubes, heater-balancing resistors that can also act as fuses are pretty much a necessity.
@@goodun2974 If memory serves me, I could not understand why Marshall utilized the hum balancing circuit anyway as the transformer was centertapped and to avoid hum, but not utilized, again if memory serves me, soo just eliminate it all together and use the center tap to balance out the circuit.
If Marshall (or anyone) wants to get rid of or keep hummmm to a minimum...do something with the heater dress that is always soo sloppy on Marshall's or better yet, just utilize DC heaters and call it a day!
...but then again, Marshall is not known as the quietest amps, or best tone for that matter, but Jim and Marshall are known as being the King of LOUD (as referenced in this video)!! If you want to keep the tone, but make the output at a managable level....just add a post-tone stack master, soo the preamp circuit is turned up, but you dont kill everyone in the room....especially with this beast! Yes, it's loud...VERY loud.
@@RozsaAmplificationLLC , resistors that can act as fuses is safer for the transformer in case of a shorted tube than having a centertapped heater winding secondary (and putting that centertap in the exact dead electrical center of the heater winding might be tricky). In some cases you probably get a better "balancing" from a pair of resistors than you do from the center tap of the transformer, unless that transformer is made to extremely high tolerances.
A DC heater supply is nice but it adds some minor complexity to the amp; better to do all the basics 100% correctly in the first place than to try and fix your construction and layout mistakes by adding more components and more complexity. It has been said that an idiot admires complexity and a genius appreciates simplicity. Also known as the KISS principle ---- no, not the band, where the makeup was more complicated than the uninspiring music ---- ie, Keep It Simple Stupid!