I'm confused by your control horn comments. The control arm on the elevator surface is angled so the pivot point is over the hinge line when at neutral position... seems the horn on the servo should be 90 degrees to the rod at neutral... But maybe I'm missing something. I know it's debated a lot.
For sure. On this setup if you did run the arms at 90 to the servo body, the pre made slots would not work and you cant off set the servo enough. The control arms are much shorter than the arms on the surface so my offset does bring the servo arm to a 90 degree to the control rod.
Your comment on matching the servo horn angles isn't correct. What you want is an imaginary line from the hinge line to the centre of the clevis pin/ball link of the surface when it's centred. The angle between that and the pushrod wants to be 90 degrees. Same for the servo end, from the centre of the servo to the pushrod wants to be 90degrees when centred. If the control surface end isn't 90 then you want to match it at the other end but mirrored. So if the ball link is behind the hinge line then you angle the servo horn away from the hinge line. The other thing is you want the shortest servo horn and longest control horn you can whilst still getting the surface travel you want. This increases torque, resolution and precision.
Awesome! Said many times to use the shortest horn possible. If you run the servo arms at 90 degrees to servo you can't offset the servo enough to work with the stock slots. Cheers!
I think it would be a fun setup. The only downside with the Rebel is the intakes are too small for EDF. I have see one done where additional cutouts were created on the canopy and it looked great!
Hi Jonathan, can you please share the reasoning behind cycling the servos. Please share how many cycles and how can we do it without a Jetibox. Super helpful video, as always. Thank you very much!!
Hey. The Theory. If there is going to be an electronic problem, it will generally arrise sooner than later. So hopefully during the "Burn in " phase. First video in the upcoming F16 build I cover it in more detail. 990 cycles as that's the max the jeti box will go to. Full travel and speed at 30. You don't need a jeti box specifically but you will need a servo cycler.
Now tjat you have finished that one and she is a pretty stunning peice of kit. I would paint a Mustang in same colours on the side he,s gotta get one. Goosd to see yyya getting some flying in before the big White happens. Keep at it now.
Thanks for an excellent job on the build video. I have the same jet on order. It will be my first turbine build, so this is extremely helpful and looking forward to watching more!
My concern with one battery for everything isn't that the battery could fail, although it could but the probability is very small... The concern is that if any of the components (ECU / Light / Gear controller) fails and start shorting the power, you will potentially lose everything instead of just losing the turbine / light or gear.
Alright, so I have to ask: At least on the "bigger" turbines, manufacturers tell you to set the tip of the turbine cone to "x" mm (25mm) from the pipe, not the bell mouth. In this instance, you're splitting the difference. Granted, 26mm (your number) is pretty much the same but, you're saying to split the distance of the bell mouth and "it's very important" to do so. Let's assume that 1/2 distance is different from the manufacturer's recommended distance. Why is it better to do it your way?
All of our links are Here: linktr.ee/thelightersideofrc
I appreciate talent and commitment to perfection. You are an amazing master builder and I throughly enjoy watching your videos.
Thank you so much!
Great video as always Jonathan, very happy your finding the BVM Clevis pliers a handy shop tool!!!
Thanks again!
I'm confused by your control horn comments. The control arm on the elevator surface is angled so the pivot point is over the hinge line when at neutral position... seems the horn on the servo should be 90 degrees to the rod at neutral... But maybe I'm missing something. I know it's debated a lot.
For sure. On this setup if you did run the arms at 90 to the servo body, the pre made slots would not work and you cant off set the servo enough. The control arms are much shorter than the arms on the surface so my offset does bring the servo arm to a 90 degree to the control rod.
@thelightersideofrc Perfect. I understand now, I misunderstood what you were saying in the video. Beautiful plane as all of them are!
Beautiful plane, love the paint. Congrats to the contest winner!
Thanks!
@@thelightersideofrc any time!
Hi Jon ,
Rumbling on , very nicely !!
Looking VERY nice !!
Cheers mate ,
Phil
Thanks Phil!
Nice attention to details. Very, informative.
Thank you!
Your comment on matching the servo horn angles isn't correct.
What you want is an imaginary line from the hinge line to the centre of the clevis pin/ball link of the surface when it's centred.
The angle between that and the pushrod wants to be 90 degrees.
Same for the servo end, from the centre of the servo to the pushrod wants to be 90degrees when centred.
If the control surface end isn't 90 then you want to match it at the other end but mirrored. So if the ball link is behind the hinge line then you angle the servo horn away from the hinge line.
The other thing is you want the shortest servo horn and longest control horn you can whilst still getting the surface travel you want.
This increases torque, resolution and precision.
Awesome! Said many times to use the shortest horn possible. If you run the servo arms at 90 degrees to servo you can't offset the servo enough to work with the stock slots. Cheers!
I’d like to see ya build one of these and set it up for edf! Not all fields allow turbines but we like the big stuff as well in edf
I think it would be a fun setup. The only downside with the Rebel is the intakes are too small for EDF. I have see one done where additional cutouts were created on the canopy and it looked great!
Hi Jonathan, can you please share the reasoning behind cycling the servos. Please share how many cycles and how can we do it without a Jetibox. Super helpful video, as always. Thank you very much!!
Hey. The Theory. If there is going to be an electronic problem, it will generally arrise sooner than later. So hopefully during the "Burn in " phase. First video in the upcoming F16 build I cover it in more detail. 990 cycles as that's the max the jeti box will go to. Full travel and speed at 30. You don't need a jeti box specifically but you will need a servo cycler.
Now tjat you have finished that one and she is a pretty stunning peice of kit. I would paint a Mustang in same colours on the side he,s gotta get one. Goosd to see yyya getting some flying in before the big White happens. Keep at it now.
Yea the VooDoo Reno Racer would be dang cool!
What speckled paint do you use on the inside of the fuselage
Rustoleum stone finish.
I was thinking 08:12 . . . maybe a Jeti Rex Assist . . . instead of seperate gyro ? . . . Or SystemBox with 1x Rsat and 1x Rex Assist . . .
Love they Cortex too much to not use one!
Thanks for an excellent job on the build video. I have the same jet on order. It will be my first turbine build, so this is extremely helpful and looking forward to watching more!
Glad I could help! Really nice aircraft!
WHOO HOO!!!! Email sent! Super excited about the prize!
😎
what exactly colour / material are you using inside the fuselage ?
Rustoleum Grey Primer and Stone paint Black/White/Grey
Another great video.. 😳😳One battery for EVERYTHING…. thanks Jonathan 🙏🏻
Thanks! I know! What kind of craziness is this!😂😂
Hi, what paper do you use to wrap/mask the fuselage?
Just masking paper from Home Depot or Automotive shop.
My concern with one battery for everything isn't that the battery could fail, although it could but the probability is very small... The concern is that if any of the components (ECU / Light / Gear controller) fails and start shorting the power, you will potentially lose everything instead of just losing the turbine / light or gear.
Of course! Could happen with any situation and setup.
Must be nice
It is
Get tired of watching it twice😅 but I enjoyed it both times 😊
HAHA. Thanks!
Il signor pirotti progetta da dio i suoi aerei
😎
What's the point of spraying the inside of the fuselage ? Isn't that unnecessary weight ? Yes. It looks pretty.
Looks good........That's it........and it protects the wood structure.
What brand and type of paint is that you use inside the fuselage it looks great!
Alright, so I have to ask: At least on the "bigger" turbines, manufacturers tell you to set the tip of the turbine cone to "x" mm (25mm) from the pipe, not the bell mouth. In this instance, you're splitting the difference. Granted, 26mm (your number) is pretty much the same but, you're saying to split the distance of the bell mouth and "it's very important" to do so. Let's assume that 1/2 distance is different from the manufacturer's recommended distance. Why is it better to do it your way?
Normal pipe setup with small bell or flange is 25-30mm. Large bell mouth go to middle. Grumania is a good example. Their bells are like 4” in depth.
yawn, lets us know when you get BDX
Maybe some day!