I had calculated how much it was costing when buying 5 gallons at a time from the manufacturer and I think it was just under 5 cents a board foot. Cheap insurance.
I just recently started watching your videos and have really enjoyed them. Have learned so much from watching them. I am in the process of retiring from pool construction after 47 years and sawing hardwood and marketing it on a small scale. You are awesome!!
You’re the best watch across the board of all the content o watch. Cant get enough of how real always are. This was a fantastic yet simple video! Keep em coming.
I wish I would’ve seen this a while back. A big pecan tree fell down on our family farm and I decided I would start chopping it up to mill. A lot of videos online say that house paint works. I had to learn the hard way that house paint lets your logs crack seeing as how I got a can of anchor seal and put on the ends of some of the logs later and they still haven’t cracked much. I’m learning a bunch of stuff the hard way because I just got an Alaska chainsaw mill and I’ve been milling up this pecan tree. Some are turning out pretty good now. And now I watched your slab video and learned that I probably slabbed cut them wrong also. Are you going to make any videos on how you cut and dry burls? Thanks from the rookie mill guy out here in Oklahoma
Thanks, Robert. I learn a lot from your videos. Just starting out with my LT 35 hydraulic. So far mostly making stickers and getting the lumber yard set up. In the meantime learning all I can. Thanks again.
I had a great clip of Chip lifting his legs and applying yellow colored end sealer but I figured it would get me trouble with the UA-cam police! It was hilarious. He was just trying to help!
Robert, thanks for taking your time to produce these videos. I learned something new today, thanks to you. Have a great one. From a fellow "retired" engineer.
When I get logs in I re buck the ends then roll on sealer while logs are whole. Uses less product and keeps ends clearer so I can see better where to put my blade. I only quarter saw so seeing is very important to me. I get next to no checking.
I love your videos. One of the main things I love about your teaching is that you explain why you should do things in a certain way. Like when you explained in this video how stickers act like a moisture reservoir to help arrest cracks. Makes total sense. And I agree that end sealer was probably designed to seal end grain but there really wasn’t any reason given why house paint wouldn’t perform the function in the same way. As far as I can see, it soaks in and seals up with a latex barrier. Don’t we use latex gloves to protect our hands from all types of wet things? My wife says I can’t use body wash on my hair because the bottle clearly says “Body Wash.” But if you read the list of ingredients on the bottle and compare them to what’s in shampoo, they’re almost identical. Hmmm. I wonder if the marketing people had anything to do with that. So give us a better reason not use house paint than the fact that it’s called “house paint.”
Sure, I forgot to mention that end sealer is designed to evaporate off the boards and lumber so that there is no residue on the board after kiln drying, and so to will not stick to planer cutters and drive rollers, and then mark the boards. This is extremely important. Been there done that. Also, latex paints are surface treatments, but the glycol in the end sealer makes it soak into the endgrain so that if the board splits from the end, it will rarely outrun the depth of the glycol. In addition, since end sealer, remains relatively flexible when it dries, it will bridge most cracks and try to keep them sealed. End sealer also dries clear, which is huge, as it allows me and customers to see the endgrain on the boards so to better know what they are buying. When quartersawng, clear sealer on the logs lets me see the grain when I'm sawing, which is a necessity to mill accurately. So end sealer has both functional advantages as well as processing advantages over paint. Last but not least, when I spray or paint with end sealer, there is no need to clean the spray equipment, the sealer never cures hard like a paint, so there is zero clean up. Much much convenient for the user, much better for sawing and selling lumber to see the grain, and has properties that are better than paint for preventing cracking. To sum to up, its "just better" and people know I will always try new things, and will always switch to what's better.
I don't saw a whole lot, but that's about to change. You are absolutely right (no surprise there) that end sealer is cheaper from other sources than Amazon. I bought a 5 gallon bucket of it from a store online and saved 40 bucks over the Amazon price. Great video as always! Thanks, Robert!
Just google "green wood sealer" and several will come up. Most are just repackaged from a few large manufactures, despite what the selling companies say. So most are good, not much difference between them. I'm not big into sponsorship at this point, I want to be able to say what I want to say without selling my soul for a bucket of stuff. I've had to buy all our tools with our own money we earned form the business, so I'm not sure what they could give me that I don't already have or would want. However, if Caterpillar wanted to give me a D10 Dozer, I would probably say I like them... but everybody else gets the truth from me, good or bad. However, I don't own any Cat equipment, because although I've looked at some of their skid steers and mini excavators, I wasn't overly impressed. Nobody is going to sponsor me because they know I will not always say what they want me to say.
Ha, what pay grade? Folks get money doing this? People just started calling me the "Sawmill Professor" and also the "Wood Yoda" and since I'm much taller that Yoda, I figured I'd use the "sawmill professor" name, instead. Not a name I came up with, but hey, I figure I look like the Professor on Gilligan's Island, so just roll with it!
Another great video, Robert. Any recommendations for those in winter/northern climates as to the timing of when to apply it? The sprayer is a great time-saver if you can get the viscosity right. I find the same with spraying ATF to lubricate the sawmill. I agree with Jake. I miss seeing Chip helping you apply the sealer! Probably was too windy for him.
I had a great clip of Chip lifting his leg and applying a stream of yellow colored end sealer but I figured it would get me trouble with the UA-cam police! It was hilarious. He was just trying to help!
Hello Ireland! Glad to meet you! I was going to say something different about trying to get "end sealer" from people who didn't know what you were talking about! Maybe they would be thinking more of a medical emergency and hand you a big cork as an "end sealer!" Thanks for commenting!
I ought to try that as an experiment, but end seal requires no cleanup at all, not even water. It's amazingly convenient. Endsealer also evaporates off in the kiln so doesn't leave any residue own the boards.
You shouldn’t use dark colored stickers such as walnut, nor stickers that trap water, like basswood. However, most hardwood stickers will work fine for most species as long as they are dry. You have to use the same stickers as the wood you are drying.
Sir, your videos are great and very helpful. I'm a weekend sawer with a LT15, just ordered a 40. Do you use a typical garden sprayer or is there a specific one used for anchor seal (i seem to remember you saying it was specific). If so, could you let us know what sprayer you use? Thank you!
Zero- I never clean it. The anchor seal never fully cures or dries, no water clean up or anything. Spray, put it away, and forget about it until next time.
Nope. Leave a little end trim on the logs when you buy or cut them, stack them until you are ready to mill them, then buck them to exact length to clean the ends up, saw them up, sticker and end seal. It works great, saves time and product, and I do it all the time.
Before kiln drying, and it doesn't affect the drying process at all. As a matter of fact, I forgot to mention that it evaporates off in the kiln, so there is no residue.
You crack me up … I never miss a video!
Thanks!
I had calculated how much it was costing when buying 5 gallons at a time from the manufacturer and I think it was just under 5 cents a board foot. Cheap insurance.
Yes, I agree, it is relatively cheap and makes a big difference.
Right in the middle of your demonstration, UA-cam breaks in with an add for the latest Ghostbusters movie 😂
Are you kidding me??? That is just creepy and hilarious at the same time!
…and there was a scene in Ghostbusters when they used a sprayer to mitigate ghosts. Coincidence? I think not.
Iam knew but learning so much.
Great!
been using endsealer for years never thought about a sprayer thanks
It works great.
I just recently started watching your videos and have really enjoyed them. Have learned so much from watching them. I am in the process of retiring from pool construction after 47 years and sawing hardwood and marketing it on a small scale. You are awesome!!
Welcome aboard!
You’re the best watch across the board of all the content o watch. Cant get enough of how real always are. This was a fantastic yet simple video! Keep em coming.
Appreciate that
I wish I would’ve seen this a while back. A big pecan tree fell down on our family farm and I decided I would start chopping it up to mill. A lot of videos online say that house paint works. I had to learn the hard way that house paint lets your logs crack seeing as how I got a can of anchor seal and put on the ends of some of the logs later and they still haven’t cracked much. I’m learning a bunch of stuff the hard way because I just got an Alaska chainsaw mill and I’ve been milling up this pecan tree. Some are turning out pretty good now. And now I watched your slab video and learned that I probably slabbed cut them wrong also. Are you going to make any videos on how you cut and dry burls? Thanks from the rookie mill guy out here in Oklahoma
Well, at least you know that what I say works and is the real deal. Next time I get burls I will make a video.
Thanks, Robert. I learn a lot from your videos. Just starting out with my LT 35 hydraulic. So far mostly making stickers and getting the lumber yard set up. In the meantime learning all I can. Thanks again.
Glad to help! Make sure you let your stickers air dry before you use them.
I think you should let Chip brush it on with his tail. LOL
I had a great clip of Chip lifting his legs and applying yellow colored end sealer but I figured it would get me trouble with the UA-cam police! It was hilarious. He was just trying to help!
I have implemented the Professor’s end sealer exhortation. And it works great-much faster than a paint brush. Thank you,Sir.
Great to hear!
Robert, thanks for taking your time to produce these videos. I learned something new today, thanks to you. Have a great one. From a fellow "retired" engineer.
Cool! Glad to be able to provide some useful information!
The David Letterman of Saw Milling 😂😊 Always enjoy your Videos. Thanks
I've been called that before. They say I look like him. I done;t see it, I figure I look more like Tom Cruise.
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama 😂😂 he is a bit shorter lol
I live right across the road from the #2 largest lumber mill in my state. 19 million board feet annually. I produce substantially less.
Me too, I'm a long way from even 18 million bdft annually.
Thanks for the tip on the stickers. Now excuse me while I go buy a 5 gallon bucket of anchor seal.
Good plan!
Where are you buying it
Thanks Robert. Always love your videos and all the knowledge and tips that you share in each of them.
Thanks!
As always you share important information.
I appreciate that!
When I get logs in I re buck the ends then roll on sealer while logs are whole. Uses less product and keeps ends clearer so I can see better where to put my blade. I only quarter saw so seeing is very important to me. I get next to no checking.
I spray logs too, but I'm not sure it saves any product. I use about a gallon per thousand bdft either way, logs or lumber.
Thanks Robert.... good stuff! Love your videos...
Thanks!
Thanks you for the tips there always very helpful!
Thanks!
Thanks Robert! I'll give that green wood sealer a shot!
You will like it!
Thanks for the tips!
Thanks for watching!
Appreciate the tips Sir.
Thanks!
Thanks
I appreciate it!
I love your videos. One of the main things I love about your teaching is that you explain why you should do things in a certain way. Like when you explained in this video how stickers act like a moisture reservoir to help arrest cracks. Makes total sense. And I agree that end sealer was probably designed to seal end grain but there really wasn’t any reason given why house paint wouldn’t perform the function in the same way. As far as I can see, it soaks in and seals up with a latex barrier. Don’t we use latex gloves to protect our hands from all types of wet things?
My wife says I can’t use body wash on my hair because the bottle clearly says “Body Wash.” But if you read the list of ingredients on the bottle and compare them to what’s in shampoo, they’re almost identical. Hmmm. I wonder if the marketing people had anything to do with that.
So give us a better reason not use house paint than the fact that it’s called “house paint.”
Sure, I forgot to mention that end sealer is designed to evaporate off the boards and lumber so that there is no residue on the board after kiln drying, and so to will not stick to planer cutters and drive rollers, and then mark the boards. This is extremely important. Been there done that. Also, latex paints are surface treatments, but the glycol in the end sealer makes it soak into the endgrain so that if the board splits from the end, it will rarely outrun the depth of the glycol. In addition, since end sealer, remains relatively flexible when it dries, it will bridge most cracks and try to keep them sealed. End sealer also dries clear, which is huge, as it allows me and customers to see the endgrain on the boards so to better know what they are buying. When quartersawng, clear sealer on the logs lets me see the grain when I'm sawing, which is a necessity to mill accurately. So end sealer has both functional advantages as well as processing advantages over paint. Last but not least, when I spray or paint with end sealer, there is no need to clean the spray equipment, the sealer never cures hard like a paint, so there is zero clean up. Much much convenient for the user, much better for sawing and selling lumber to see the grain, and has properties that are better than paint for preventing cracking. To sum to up, its "just better" and people know I will always try new things, and will always switch to what's better.
I’m sold!
I don't saw a whole lot, but that's about to change. You are absolutely right (no surprise there) that end sealer is cheaper from other sources than Amazon. I bought a 5 gallon bucket of it from a store online and saved 40 bucks over the Amazon price.
Great video as always!
Thanks, Robert!
Thanks for commenting!
What store did u use
@Peter-od7op UA-cam deleted my comment, probably because I put a link to the store in it.
Search for, U-C Coatings Anchorseal
@Peter-od7op P. S. The price is the same for 5 gallons now, as it was when I bought it in January of '23.
They keep deleting my comment.
U-C Coatings
I've been using waterproof wood glue on logs, lately, since they're still outside
Got to use what you think works. Wood glue is not as good as a wood sealer.
Great information.
Thanks!
I have only used Amchorseal. Not sure if another brand is better. Maybe if you mentioned who you use they would be a sponsor. Thanks
Just google "green wood sealer" and several will come up. Most are just repackaged from a few large manufactures, despite what the selling companies say. So most are good, not much difference between them. I'm not big into sponsorship at this point, I want to be able to say what I want to say without selling my soul for a bucket of stuff. I've had to buy all our tools with our own money we earned form the business, so I'm not sure what they could give me that I don't already have or would want. However, if Caterpillar wanted to give me a D10 Dozer, I would probably say I like them... but everybody else gets the truth from me, good or bad. However, I don't own any Cat equipment, because although I've looked at some of their skid steers and mini excavators, I wasn't overly impressed. Nobody is going to sponsor me because they know I will not always say what they want me to say.
Great videos, Robert 👍, I've painted end sealer on , that sprayer is 100 times faster.
Yeah, I spent my time brushing on end sealer. It'ss a 9.5 out of 10 on the "suckometer."
I didn’t know that about the sticker placement either - close to the end of the board.
Yes, it's really does work.
I like it!
Thanks!
Sawmill Professor. Like that much! Better than a teacher??
Hopefully, the pay grade is better.
Ha, what pay grade? Folks get money doing this? People just started calling me the "Sawmill Professor" and also the "Wood Yoda" and since I'm much taller that Yoda, I figured I'd use the "sawmill professor" name, instead. Not a name I came up with, but hey, I figure I look like the Professor on Gilligan's Island, so just roll with it!
Great video, thanks for sharing! Do you have any sort of comparison test video? Boards with and without Anchorseal after drying?
Not yet, but that would be a pretty good video to make. I should try it with a bunch of alternatives. Thanks for the idea.
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama awsome, thanks!
Another great video, Robert. Any recommendations for those in winter/northern climates as to the timing of when to apply it? The sprayer is a great time-saver if you can get the viscosity right. I find the same with spraying ATF to lubricate the sawmill.
I agree with Jake. I miss seeing Chip helping you apply the sealer! Probably was too windy for him.
I had a great clip of Chip lifting his leg and applying a stream of yellow colored end sealer but I figured it would get me trouble with the UA-cam police! It was hilarious. He was just trying to help!
When you ask for end sealer they look at you as if you have 2 heads here in Carlow Ireland
Hello Ireland! Glad to meet you! I was going to say something different about trying to get "end sealer" from people who didn't know what you were talking about! Maybe they would be thinking more of a medical emergency and hand you a big cork as an "end sealer!" Thanks for commenting!
Awsome
Thanks!
Good tips ! Thanks .
Glad it was helpful!
Robert Small amounts I use wood glue. Titebond cheaper than anchoseal
I ought to try that as an experiment, but end seal requires no cleanup at all, not even water. It's amazingly convenient. Endsealer also evaporates off in the kiln so doesn't leave any residue own the boards.
Whats your opinion on using stickers of same or different species of from what your stacking.
You shouldn’t use dark colored stickers such as walnut, nor stickers that trap water, like basswood. However, most hardwood stickers will work fine for most species as long as they are dry. You have to use the same stickers as the wood you are drying.
Sir, your videos are great and very helpful. I'm a weekend sawer with a LT15, just ordered a 40.
Do you use a typical garden sprayer or is there a specific one used for anchor seal (i seem to remember you saying it was specific). If so, could you let us know what sprayer you use?
Thank you!
Chapin Heavy Duty backpack sprayer and the anchor seal diluted just a smidge with water to flow better.
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama thank you sir
Do you use the end sealer for kiln dry also? Or only when you let air dry.
Always use end sealer, whether kiln drying, air drying or both. Thanks for watching!
I use house paint...🤣 Just kidding...
Arghh!! Good one!
Robert, how difficult is it to clean your sprayer after spraying the Anchorseal?
Zero- I never clean it. The anchor seal never fully cures or dries, no water clean up or anything. Spray, put it away, and forget about it until next time.
Thanks!@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama
I thought you needed to seal the log as soon as it’s cut, even before milling the boards. Is that not correct?
Nope. Leave a little end trim on the logs when you buy or cut them, stack them until you are ready to mill them, then buck them to exact length to clean the ends up, saw them up, sticker and end seal. It works great, saves time and product, and I do it all the time.
Do you spray the log sealer on sawn lumber before or after you kiln dry it? If before, how does it effect the drying process? Thanks
Before kiln drying, and it doesn't affect the drying process at all. As a matter of fact, I forgot to mention that it evaporates off in the kiln, so there is no residue.
Do you enseal your logs before you cut them into boards?And then after you stack your wood.I noticed you and sealed the boards
I rarely end seal the logs, unless there is a cracking emergency that requires it. I end sell the boards after I've sawn them 95% of the time.
Do you add weight on top of your stickered lumber stacks?
Yes, either slabs of concrete or other packs of lumber, many thousand pounds.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks!
Wax
Wax is fine, Endealer is a mix of wax and glycol.