How I use Hornady One Shot to lube my cases
Вставка
- Опубліковано 13 лип 2024
- You can purchase it here amzn.to/2Mx5ctZ
Help support my channel by shopping Amazon amzn.to/35bZzdK
For years One Shot was the bane of my reloading and I know people either love it or hate it with few in between. I tried using it several times over time but always struggled for some reason. Like lots of people I couldn't narrow down what was wrong and I also stuck cases which made it even more frustrating. I finally have it all figured out after talking to a friend who swore by the stuff. I hope this can help some of you who want to use it.
#oneshot #hornadyoneshot #caselube DISCLAIMER: This video and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. This helps support the channel and allows us to continue to make videos like this. Thank you for the support!
Videos on this channel are for informative, and entertainment purposes only. Using any of the information is at the risk of the individual using the information. We (including UA-cam) will not be held liable for any injury to yourself or damage to your firearms resulting from attempting anything shown in any our videos. By viewing or flagging this video you are acknowledging the above. - Спорт
Oh hell yeah! Lanolin is like fly paper and that stuff attracts everything that you don't want all over until it's cleaned up. It's frustrating and adds time and effort to reloading. Now I just use plain old Lee lube. I know Lee is blackballed as cheap but it works for me and I have never stuck anything with it. The stuff just works for my operation and I feel like it's keeping the trash to a minimum. Great video and thanks.
Since I watched your video I started using One Shot, I was loading some 223 and was using Reddding sizer wax after 10 cases I said no way ordered some One shot bout 2 months ago love it. no more wiping down cases with paper towels I used the one shot back in the 90's but stuck some cases of course I didn't read the instructions keep your dies clean, I really like it and I follow your method..thanks
Great video and great information
John, thanks for the tip. I tried it last week. Worked great. Sooooo much faster than stacking cases on a cookie sheet in neat rows before spraying. Keep the videos coming please!
I'm so glad that it helped you and I appreciate the support.
Great content as always, can you provide what sizing die you are using in the video? brand etc and do you prefer standard full length dies or bushing? I just converted to bushing
Yes... the true beauty of one shot is that you never get shoulder dents. This is one of those put it together moments for me though, one of those times when you just need someone else to say what you're already thinking. I do bulk reloading, and handloads. For some reason I've always uses one shot for bulk, but lanolin and alcohol for handloads. I think I can just go with one shot exclusively now. Thanks!
I love this channel. I have been wanting one shot in a process but all the debate was turning me off. I don't know why this video didn't come up earlier, but I feel like this probably explains a lot of the problems with one shot.
Good public service announcement. Cleaning your dies is necessary for any lube. Maybe that is why I have never had an issue with One Shot. I also coat the die with one shot for storage.
Like you I have gone back and forth with One Shot. I am back but what I have learned is that it does last forever, it evaporates and that is why it doesn't have an affect on powder. You need to do it in small batches of no more than 25-50 rounds treated at a time. Of course this will vary with how fast you process brass. Also, I apply a shot of One Shot into the die before I start. But you are absolutely right, you have to clean your die every time before you start.
Thanks for this video! I locked a case in my die when "tried" the Hornady lube after using sizing wax--very frustrating and hard to remove. I stopped using the Hornady until I saw this video. I thoroughly cleaned my new die first this time and now the Hornady works great.
Glad it helped.
I clean the die just like you. I also spray some in the die. Also i only use that stuff outside in "free air" ventilation. I even wear a respirator when sizing because my loading room is not well ventilated.
Thank You I’ll try it
Well thank you for that, I have about 200 cases I was going to prep and realy was not looking forward to lubeing one at a time.
I had my troubles with One Shot, but it's all I use now. I'm a little more particular about getting it in the necks when I'm running brass that will be seeing an expander ball. I stack them up in a cardboard box and spray it at an angle from several directions to get it in the necks and on the shoulders. I then set the box flat and spray and mix them a few times to get the bodies lubed. I use Imperial wax and One Shot in the same dies without cleaning and I haven't had an issue. I've found it hard to over-lube with the One Shot.
Got some of this on the advice of a mate, had 2 pieces of brass jam in around a hundred rounds and was not impressed. However I only sprayed the die with some brake clean, I'll have to buy a new die but I will clean it thoroughly and give it another chance.
Thanks for the advice ;)
I just saw this is the exact instructions on the Can of One Shot. So ill do it, clean up the sizing die
I arrange them in a dedicated loading block, put them in a dedicated plastic storage box, SHAKE the 1-shot can, and spray all four sides of the cases pointing downward at a 45 degree angle. Never a stuck case. I did throughly clean the die in the beginning.
The box method is great as well. I've done that too but just do the bag to keep the overspray to a minimum. Once I spray them I dump them into a bin for easy handling.
I've had many stuck cases with one-shot. In almost every incidence, I'm pretty sure it has been user error on my part. Either not giving it a full spray, not shaking enough, or not letting it dry, or not cleaning the dies or such. If you follow a sound approach, it works very well.
Thanks for your post! I just tried One Shot for the first time. Sized 100 rounds and it worked perfect! Do you clean your die after each use?
I just got a case stuck after switching from a wax to one shot. Wish I would’ve done this first. I’m a newbie but I’ve learned an important lesson that’s for sure.
I was a little skeptical because I typically use one-shot on cases in a case block so I can be sure the inside of the case mouths get fully coated. Gave this a try and it works great. Ran 500 through my LNL with Hornady Custom Grade full length sizing dies. Was actually smoother than when I lubed in the case block - guessing because the lube could reach the entire case. Thanks John!
Awesome! I'm so glad it was helpful for you.
I do something similar. I use a smaller plastic pail with about 100 cases. Squeeze in a few drops of greasy case lube and then spray with rotating the brass with my hand. Kind of in between greasy and the spray.
Thanks for the tip
No problem, hope it helps.
I used to stick brass in my die with 1 shot however I've found if I run my fingers up the brass before each stroke of the press it more evenly distributed the lube. Causing more consistent sholder bump. Also I've been seeing more scratched necks so I have to take the die apart and remove the scratches with a 600 grit silicon carbide sandpaper. And gently remove the imbedded grit. I've had lots of troubles. Shooting high power means lots of brass prep. I do thousands at a time. Using Hornady match dies. Has helped a little. However it's still brutal.
Nice video John!
However, I am just beginning to begin reloading for the 5.56/223 using RCBS Small base dies and using Hornady One Shot ONLY for this first time. I will be using a Dillon 550B for progressive reloading at some point. For the beginning I used my 40+ old RCBS Rockchucker Press, which I converted to Hornady’s Lock n Load system.
I had used Hornady One Shot with brass in a reloading block, sprayed them and gave them a short time to dry, no problems. I attempted to use your baggy technic and got my first case stuck in a long time, not sure what I did wrong. Sure looked like there was plenty of One Shot on the cases. RCBS tech support helped me with getting the stuck case removed here at home by sending me the tool to back the spindle out of the die and steel rods to pound out the brass, already had the version for drilling out the primer pocket which didn’t work. RCBS tech support was great on troubleshooting and just talking reloading.
So I am ready to give it another try after being burned and don’t want it to happen again.
Would you have any further suggestions or instructions?
Sure like to get to a point of reloading this rounds in the 550B to speed the process. Thank you, James
One Shot works well, after FL sizing I throw all the brass into a long towel I sewed into a bag, grab each end and pretend your polishing a bowling ball. Takes maybe one minute and all / any residue is gone. Wash the towel once a month. Been doing this for 3-4 years and it’s perfect.
As a newer reloader, I have loaded a few thousand rounds on a single stage, One Shot and Unique is all I have ever used. Luckily I have yet to get brass stuck in a die. I do have a stuck case removal set if it ever occurs. Somewhere I thought I had read that as long as you let One Shot dry thoroughly you shouldn't have a problem. I have been interested in using a homemade recipe for lube so if I am loading and run out I can make some.
Letting it dry is definitely key, however even if you let it dry completely and have a different brand of lube in your sizing die you run the risk of sticking it.
I spread a bunch of cases out on a cookie sheet one layer thick and give them a dusting with one shot without using the straw. Dust them at about a 45 degree angle from each direction shake the cookie sheet to let them roll around and maybe dust them lightly again. Takes very little. All the cases get hit this way. You can then dump them in a case feeder or with my 550 Dillion where I feed them by hand I just grab them right off of the cookie sheet. Never stick a case this way. When ammo is loaded I dump them in a small bucket lined with an old t shirt and massage the ammo inside the T shirt to remove most of the lube. Not really necessary but I think dust and things stick to the ammo when at shoots worse if the lube is still on it.
This is a good, fast way to use One Shot, but to guarantee you don’t have a stuck case, you should put them in a loading tray, neck up and spray each side at a 45 degree angle to get a little down inside the neck. I’ve never had a stuck case doing it this way on thousands of rifle cases.
I de-prime, wet tumble, dry, lube, size, then wet tumble again without pins to get the lube off because I don’t like loading slippery cases, dry, trim, chamfer, swage the primer pocket if needed and either store or load right away. This may seem tedious, but produces extremely consistent rounds.
Lol
I use the loading block also. It's perfect, never a stuck case
I've used both One Shot and homemade 99% isopropyl alcohol and lanolin. The only time I've stuck a case in the resizing die is with the One Shot in the pump sprayer. Once I switched to the One Shot aerosol I never had a problem. When I realized how much cheaper it was to use homemade isopropyl alcohol and lanolin and that it worked just as well I never looked back. Personally I think the method used to spray the cases matters more. I use an old cheap hard plastic pistol case that has been gutted to spray cases with lube. I put the cases in, give them a good spray, then close the lid and give the box a shake. As for cleaning the lube off the cases I've always cleaned after resizing regardless of what lube I use. I've never felt comfortable leaving the lube on the case in case the lube caused a problem with powder or case slip in the chamber.
That all sounds good and I agree. I just hate the stickiness of lanolin if I can help it.
@@FClassJohn yep I don't like how sticky lanolin is either. Like you I wear gloves.
Buy Hornady bore cleaner/luricant when you buy the case lube and spray the inside of your die with a long shot of the cleaner first, then wait a few seconds and then spray the inside of the die with canned air. No need to disassemble your die. Also, Ijust put a two deep layer of cases in a little smaller plastic shoe box type container like he has and spray without the little red tube while shaking the box full of cases, works great and faster.
I used to never understood why people had all these die issues. I've never had to unstick a case (at least not as in having to have it taken out with tools or anything), never dealt with lube bumps, etc. Always heard about it, but just couldn't understand why everyone else has these problems and I've literally never seen it.
I always used one-shot from the start. Just by luck because it's what I was taught when I was first learning.
For the curious I learned from an pretty old reloader and he put them in a tray (not like an upright tray that holds them individually, just a flat basic tray where they lay on their side, nothing reloading specific), 1 layer deep just laying in a line. He then squirts down the line and then jiggled the tray so they roll back and forth on it. Done.
Though John's ziploc method might be even better for distribution.
I started using the zip bag too but I just spray the inside of the bag first....less mess too.
Yeah I love this method.
Follow the directions on the can. Made my resizing a lot faster and they run like butter
Well I don’t load any rifle calibers on my Dillon 550 except 223 and no case feed, but I have used one shot exclusively and never stuck a case. Single stage yes, and I agree clean your resizing die completely and they won’t stick. I lube 20-30 at a time on a 45 year old RCBC lube pad and spray a lite cote inside the case mouth and roll on the case lube pad and wait 10-15 minutes and resize.
I like this bag idea but have questions..what if buy the method if one or a bunch get a direct shot into the cases, now you have some lubed neck IDs and some dry...bullet tension variations? Powder contamination??? Any thoughts
I've had no problems with 308 win, 243 win, 223 rem or 30-30 brass but, I no longer use it for 270 win. Had 2 stuck cases in 1 day.
Although I've had no problems with the cases I mentioned accept 270, My Lee case lube wax makes sizing easier on the press but, messy stuff to clean off of cases.
I'm glad to hear you have something that works. That's all that matters.
Are you lubing the inside of the neck before you run a mandrel or expander ball through to open it up?
The Tupperware method for applying the Lee paste lube works great. You have to then put some in the case mouth with a qtip. You have to let it try. It smells like bad sushi.
Where I made my mistake. I didn't spray down inside the shell. You gotta spray inside the shell if you're resizing it works great then
Thanks John I will give one shot another try I had night mares with one shot and I finally gave the can away and went back to my stand by which is Lyman case lube.Yes you always have a flash time to Waite on ,I guess that goes with out saying and I still use Dillon a lot but don't run my rifle brass threw my Dillon's and always use Lyman on my pistol brass just a spray over to help out the ease of the sizing die.I will give one shot another try .But I am not believing it yet ,Like the old saying goes ( See if Mike'ly Likes It ) Charlie.
Fingers crossed that you have success!!!
I never put brass in a bag before, guess Ill try that. Getting cases stuck is gettin old. Was honestly ready to just sell the reloading gear and buy ammo like normal people.
How does it get in all the case necks?
If it works it works. I've stuck cases with one shot and haven't yet with lanolin.
I do dry tumble afterwards.
Hey it's all good, different ways to do it and they can all work for people for different reasons. Glad you have one that works for you.
Thanks for the info. I'm brand new to reloading and am still learning. Running a RL1100.
I'd prepped thousands and thousands of cases. Never a problem with One Shot or home brew.
So getting lube IN the case neck/body isn't and issue with powder sticking during charge?
I polished the inside of my dies with flitz and a buffer wheel on my dremel. It made a HUGE difference in the feel and friction reduction during sizing.
Any issues running a mandrel through the neck after sizing or do you need to lube the neck again?
No I don’t have any problems but I’m also running only carbide mandrels and gage pins, so I never have to worry about it.
I have NEVER had a problem with Hornady lube.
Nice die! What brand?
Big question John. How long do you have after you put the stuff on until you resize? Sometimes I"ll have to leave the shop and not be back for a couple hours. Will I have to re-apply?
You shouldn't have any issues waiting. I've let it sit without any issues and worst case you just hit again real quick if you really feel you need to and there's no harm no foul.
@@FClassJohn Thank you John
I think you touched on it briefly, I've never locked up brass in the die, whats the procedure for removal if it happens? Also, any need/benefit to spraying one shot in the die prior to sizing?
There’s a stick case removal tool you can buy. It works pretty well. Also most die manufacturers will do it fire if you send it to them too. I’ve never put one shot in the die first but some people do.
You can drill and tap the Primer Hole of the case, thread in a bolt with washers and a socket to pull it out. Try throwing the die in the freezer overnight
Lee dies have a built in stuck case remover. you remover the clamp holding the pin, and pound it out with the pin. For every other die set I am aware of you have to buy a stuck case remover. I would recommend the RCBS. It comes with a drill bit and tap. then you put on a spacer with a bolt going into the threads you cut in the casings. It just yanks it out. I would get a stuck case remover just in case if I were you. First time I did it with a non lee system took me a week to get the case remover kit.... Only stuck casings a few times, but a case remover kit is a must have in my opinion.
A question from a reloading newbie , once you lube the case and make the complete bullet/round, do you clean the lube off of the bullet/round before using the bullet in a firearm?
Lately I don't bother but I use One Shot so it's less of a big deal and I've never seen if affect anything. HOWEVER, if you're using any other lube you'll definitely want to clean the lube off either after sizing or after loading. After sizing is the more practical.
I actually just started reloading yesterday. I realized that I didn't need the lube after I resized the cases. It dries and becomes harder to get off. I just used a rag after I finished reloading to get the lube off. I ain't doing that again. They aren't that shiny anymore but i was using lee case lube which was annoying to put on anyways and dried quickly and just didn't look good.
One question John, I lightly lube with one shot (9mm), let them dry a few minuets and then put them in the case feeder. If I don’t use all the cases, is it ok to leave them in the case feeder for a few days before I load them? Does the one shot dry up, get hard, go away or just stay ready for loading?
I've done it and left them for days at a time. They'll get just a little tacky but still sized fine for me. I'm sure some of it depends on your local humidity. That beings said, I try to only spray the cases I plan on sizing and letting them sit is a worst case scenario for me.
@@FClassJohn Thanks John. That’s great to know. Great video by the way.
Get yourself some carbide dies for your 9mm, no need to lube with those. I wet tumble all my brass first to keep grit out of my dies, then run my straight wall cases through them without lube. That’s the beauty of carbide dies. DO NOT do this with any bottle neck cases, they absolutely need to be lubed regardless if you have carbide dies for them.
It won't contaminate powder?
I use dedicated hornady universal loading trays, shoot brass with one shot at 45 degree angle each side, let sit for alcohol dry out, never stuck one. In order I deprime, lube and resize, wet tumble, prime, trim, seat. This way my cases arent lubey and the necks, while dry, are all the same consistency. I use a single stage though.
I trim prior to the wet tumble to get out any brass shavings, but always wondered if my trim process was affected by still having the lube on the cases. Is there a reason you do it just prior to seating?
@@fenomeno71 when I wet tumble after trimming with my giraud trimmer, the steel pins peen the case mouth and I lose that awesome chamfer on the neck that I got with the giraud. So after trimming I tap and/or blow into the cases to blow out any shavings. but I dont even think thats necessary honestly. The giraud doesn’t leave much behind.
@@BenBelkin Thanks. The lube does also make a mess of my Giraud; but I tumble without the ss afterwards. I'll give your Order a try next time around.
@@fenomeno71 Great, let me know how it goes. I never considered wet tumbling without pins, but I suppose it can get it clean with just the brass rubbing against each other.
This is older and I hope it gets read. Anyway, I use a rcbs lube pad and single stage. But I want to get a progressive loader and would love a faster and less messy way to lube.
Couple questions, with the one shot and zip lock bag process, that gets the inside case necks too?
Once done and resized I don't need to wipe off?
I read something in here about never have to lube again? This is a permanent lube?
Would I need to clean new dies before one shot use?
Lastly, do I need to clean the die between uses if only using one shot?
Thanks
You will get some of it inside the necks but it’s not super consistent. I used carbide expander mandrels, so I don’t worry about lube inside. You can shoot rounds that still have the lube on the outside if you want to as it’s a fairly minimal amount and it’s not super tacky are sticky but I prefer to tumble my brass just to knock it off.
Regarding the dies, even a new dies, I like to spray a warm up and run it up inside the dye a couple times just to prime it and then I run the wall mop in my sizing die every 100 to 200 rounds just to clean it out a little.
Thanks for the reply, as for the carbide expander. Who makes that and I assume it will fit all standard dies?
@@TnTriton225 21st century makes a really good assortment of black nitride. Carbide is harder to find unless versatile, but go to 21st-century and take a look at what they have.
You dont see a need to clean the cases after resizing with one shot?
What sizer is that?
Hello. I'm fairly new to reloading. Could you verify your process.... Dirty brass > Clean/tumble > Lube with one shot > let it dry > Resize/deprime > brass prep > and load. No need to clean again after you resize? Is this correct?
That's correct, I don't clean them a second time. That's the beauty of One Shot.
@@FClassJohn Thank you, and thanks for the great videos.
Not wanting to throw a monkey wrench in the works but I have noticed how easily the brass picks up dirt leaving one shot on cases. I clean again after sizing.
I was super excited about the DIY Lanolin/Alcohol lubricant until realizing it does not come off with a wet tumbler. It only comes off with chemicals or dry tumbling. What a freaking mess.
Yep exactly. That's why I only use One Shot now. Not to mention how messy the lanolin mixes are.
It does come off with a wet tumbler. Just add a good squirt of dawn dish soap, and run for 15-30min.
For those who wet tumble this is the best process. Forget the lanolin its not water soluable.
My local shop was going out of business. I got 5 cans of Hornady one shot for $ 5 a can
I’m sorry to hear about your LGS going out of business but that’s a great deal that you picked up on.
Do you have to clean the one shot off afterwards?
You don’t have to and I’ve done testing both cleaning it off and leaving it on with almost no difference in results. The only thing is long-term it just is a little tacky however minor.
What size blue bins are you using?
I’m not sure but I use the standard size and a much larger one depending on my needs.
😢 Me seeing this AFTER spending 30 Dollars on "Lyman quick slick" (absolute bullshit in my opinion), but based on this I'm going to do a complete clean and head to the gun shop.
There is "TWO kinds of One Shot" one shot case lube, smaller can, redder label and shaker ball inside. One shot "Gun Cleaner", larger can blacker label and no shaker ball. I've grabbed the wrong can before - that doesn't work so well. Just my thoughts
ABSOLUTELY! You definitely have to make sure you grab the case lube. I do wish like many others that they made the cans 'more' different than they already do to help this from happening. Historically a good percentage of people who think they've had problems with One Shot have had this happen to them. Thanks for the comment.
When you spray into the bag, you are getting an uneven amount of lube inside the case necks. I spray the bag first, and then add the brass. Problem solved. No lube inside the necks. I believe that inside case neck lube is detrimental to accuracy, especially when it is uneven.
Yeah I agree. That’s why I tumble after sizing to remove the lube. I know with one shot I don’t have to but I like cleaning them off anyway.
F class John do you lube the inside of your case necks before seating
Nope, not anymore.
@@FClassJohn now is that because you feel you get enough lube in the necks when you lube your brass in a bag with one shot or do you not believe in lubing case mouths, I personally use graphite on my hunting rifle because I use a expander ball and it sizes smoother I don’t know if it helps accuracy,just looking to expand my knowledge not knocking anyone
@@dwaynewood8156 Honestly it’s just because in my testing I’ve stopped seeing it as a variable that had any kind of discernible impact on my scores. I still think it has merit in some situations but for the volume that I shoot, it’s one step that if I can remove it and not have an impact then it makes my life easier.
@@FClassJohn roger that over
do you remove the lube after reloading ??
Yep. I throw it in the tumbler for five or 10 minutes.
What dies are you using in that tool head?
Newlon dies. I love them. You can only buy them as blanks and then you have to ream them.
I think everyone I know hates one shot 😆😆 I rather mix my own.
And I totally agree with making your own EXCEPT there's no replacing it when you use case feeders and want to keep everything clean and sticky-free. It does have its place on benches for that reason alone.
@@FClassJohn I deprime, clean, resize, clean off the case lube, then trim and debur prior to using my progressive. 1 shot is wicked unhealthy, I use a lanolin and alcohol mix, and will be trying alcohol and caster oil when I run out. supposedly it does not separate as easily.
Just use Lee Lube, clean and no issues ever
I’m plaqued by dented shoulders. No matter how little lube I use. It’s getting old quick
That Hornady one shot works but I hate how toxic the label makes it seem or sound. Rather not get cancer.
I’ve use the imperial wax with great success but it’s slow to apply it doesn’t work for a progressive press.
I’ll probably use lanolin homemade remedy and then just tumble after sizing When using a progressive press. When using a single stage press I’ll probably just go back to imperial wax
No one ever shows how to lube a case the very first time you use a die
I use a wood 12ga mop and just spray it heavily and run it up in my die. I've also just taken a large cleaning patch and wrapping around a bore brush and run it up in there.
Sooo the conclusion you came to was that tools work better when you clean them. smh
850 is not a quick video…
The worst-case lube out there.