I can tell you from experience that if you walk into a sheet metal shop that makes AC ducts and give them dimensions of what you want, they can/will make it exactly what you ask for and it will have all the edges rolled or peened down. A lot of those guys love a break from the monotony and a challenge for the brain, so never shy away from asking. The ductwork is heavier gauge than the 24 or 26 gauge trim coils
Awesome hive, however, I hope you use fine mesh on your gable end air holes...what a nice warm place for wasps to build their nest, right above their food source.
Used ECO wood of a flame scorched/wire brushed cedar hive, makes it look "old barn wood". I didn't know/think about a water based tint. Ty, for your videos, Blessed Days...
Before I even got to listen to what you had to say I was distracted by your taped-up thumb. Got to know this is a wood worker I can identify with. I truly enjoyed to e content. Valuable information that is well explained. Thanks
I almost lost the tip of my thumb cutting frame components. I took some time off from the shop. I could have went to hospital but opted to self administer and it healed up fine except I have no feeling in the tip of the thumb - it's slowly getting feeling back, but I expect a year before it does. Thanks for noticing and please be careful too :)
@@enjoybeekeeping5612 I did it too. About 1/16th notch in the fleshy part of the tip of the thumb. didn't even nick the thumbnail. I think of it as the last warning from the saw
@@enjoybeekeeping5612I hope you get feeling back. I ran the tip of my thumb through the table saw and everything is healed except the nerve sensation. Sawdust went under my safety glasses and I instinctively reached for my eyes with my left hand and kept the right on the workpiece (just passed the blade and about to fall) it felt like a steel bar hit my thumb tip and I knew what I did.
Nice Video you made. I use the entrance discs also for my bait hives. It is very easy to close when you pick them op. Kind regards Jacques from the Netherlands
Thanks for sharing this. I like that roof idea. I have built two of these hives and made the gable roofs out of plywood wrapped with aluminum flashing. But giving the current price of plywood, I like your method much better. On mine I put screen over the vent holes in the gable ends to keep bugs out.
I built the Long Langstroth and went for the additional depth for much the same reasons as yourself. Concerned with the build up of dead bees over the winter. Also went for a hole on either end, angled upwards as much as the drill would allow. Heavy coats of paint and folk art flowers on the outside. Thank you very much for taking the time to mention the author of Beekeeping With A Smile.
Not a hive tip but a shop tip...I made a roller cart that the assembled hive sits on. I assemble the boxes on my workbench and as soon as the heavy box is complete, I slide it onto a rolling cart. The cart with the casters is at a height that is comfortable to work on plus you can roll it out of the way if you have several going at once. I highly recommend locking casters because there are times you don't want the cart to move. When it is time to put the hive in the truck, I just roll the hive over to the truck and slide it off the cart onto the truck bed. I am going to have to try the 1" frames because I have squished many bees in the top end frames.
I'd love to see pics of your cart. I've been thinking of making one myself and just haven't gotten there yet. If you don't mind, email me at enjoybeekeeping@gmail.com Thanks!
So, what about screwing 3 or 4 langstroth deep boxes side by side and drilling some bee sized holes between them for bee access and ventilation, then maybe cover the outside with a thin plywood and make small lids with the larger lid over that?
I agree the gable roof is the way to go. I typically add a couple of inches for an overhang. I'll need to look around for a supplier like you. Because of where I live, I do the box within a box design, I wanted more insulation than the 1 1/2" wood provided, though it did work as my first hive. I also prefer the roof setting on wood supports outside as well. I've had less issues with this and the hinges work better. On one hive I insulted the roof, just as an experiment. I wanted to see if the hive was cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. I still plan on using something on top of the frames. Good video, thanks for the information.
Have you made any conclusions with adding insulation permanently to the roof? I have been thinking to do that to keep the hive cool during our SC summers, and of course the winters.
Great video, keep them coming!!!!! Thanks for the tips & tricks, I’m going to experiment with them out here in southern Colorado. Also, just as a side note, I attended the same class with Dr. Leoclass
In my hives i build in a mesh bottom with a tray for varoa inspection underneath. Both the mesh and the tray can be removed for inspection or cleaning without emptying the hive.
Thanks for a great informative video on Layens hive modifications! Which honey extractor do you use for the Layens frames? Where would you recommend purchasing it?
Good to compensate for the wood swelling. In one of my layens the frames became very tight to get out. I had to jam a Metal bar in which eventually returned it to its original width.
I also use the Eco staind. However when I went to my local Home Depot they had no idea what I was talking about in terms of tint. Out of curiosity what color is your tint? I prefer that.
Hi Craig, I don't have written plans at this time, but hopefully by means of the videos I'll provide enough info that you can make these modifications on your own. I do have plans however to detail my gabled roof design for folks, so please hang in there until time permits me to get that done. Thanks for watching and Enjoy Beekeeping :)
Fantastic -- I just got out of beeschool where the organization essentially focused on Langstroth hives -- I didn't know much about the Layens hive until I came across your channel-- very fascinating! In your area how do you deal with stuff like Varroa? Does the Layens hive change your approach in any way, with Varroa, hive beetles, etc?
I added 2" in height then placed a false floor with screens down the middle. I cut a slot opening in each side for a slide in pan to hold vegetable oil to hopefully help control small hive beetles. It works great so far.
Given your other video on top ventilation and the bees plugging it up, do you still build gables roofs with vent holes in them or have you changed to unvented gable roofs?
I’ve built two of Dr Leo’s insulated hives with his design for the gabled roof. I used shingles I had laying around but I think I’ll contact a local HVAC company and try your tin roof idea next time. The shingles make the lid very heavy. It was a lot of work to do the insulation so I might try the 2x10s next time. Do you feel in the north both styles would be equal in insulating the bees? Also do you glue in your starter strips? FYI, I collected two swarms without any trouble first time out. They look like dark European bees. I’ll be doing it again next year. I put a bundle of sticks in front of the entrance to cause them to reorient when I moved them from the front yard swarm trap to the backyard hive. No issues with them returning to the front yard as I feared. The sticks really worked.
I felt that the shingled roofs would be too heavy myself and since the hive is already heavy enough I opted for a lighter version and feel it's well worth having the metal tops made. The insulation still fits underneath the flat part just fine so I see no reason it would not work fine in the northern climates as long as you are putting the insulation directly over your brood nest and using the follower board to close them down. For my starter strips, I cut a groove just wide enough that I have to gently force the plastic starter strip in and it holds just fine without using any glue.
Please tell me more about how to put the sticks in front of the hive to reorient them so you don't have to move the hives 3 miles away. Where do I get information on that?
My trap was in the front yard and my hives in the backyard. I took the trap down at night and put it on the stand next to their new home. At the same time I tied a bunch of sticks to the front that interrupted their exit from the front entrance causing all the bees to immediately reorient the next morning from the swarm trap. This looked like a small loose broom shape but with enough spaces so they weren’t blocked completely. They did reorient that day and a week later I moved them into their new home sitting next to their swarm trap. Worked like a charm. Here is Bee Boy Bob doing the same thing as he splits his hives. ua-cam.com/video/duWYJmaqnLM/v-deo.html
@@Rob_Brock thanks so much. That's really helpful. Are there any UA-cam videos on how to arrange the sticks? How many? It's just a lot better if I don't have to go move the hive three miles away for 7 days.
I used a few sticks and branches about 12 inches long and tied together at the top like a small broom. The sticks were a quarter inch in diameter. Make sure the bundle is loose so the bees have space to get through but can’t fly directly out. They need to climb across a few sticks before flying away. This acts like a tree limb that might have fallen down across the entrance. You just want to force them to engage their normal reorientation behavior.
I have a question that may be stupid - I love this idea and as I get older I like the idea of not having to handle or store all the boxes and frames. So here is the question - my bee traps are this at a primitive design - then I use as nucs once the bees are caught. What would stop the design from just being a wide nuc using the standard deep frames and going 20 wide. just drill additional holes in the front. Again, maybe I am off on this but I'm trying to find a way to utilize all the deep frames I already have.
There are lots of folks doing just that - using "long Langs". I think they will work better in areas with mild winters compared to the New England states or Canada however.
Loving the information you provide in your videos. My daughter and I are just starting on our beekeeping journey and already realise the commercial Langstath hive is going to be physically challenging. You talk in your video about different starter strips but not how do you actually attach them. Is it only glue you use? I have access to timber paint stirrers, but have also bought some sheets of wax sheets, can these only be used if supported by wire?
I've used fishing line instead of wire, but found a bamboo skewer also helps and it's quicker. You can pinch and nail in wax starter strips, or use hot wax to melt in a starter strip. I also cut a groove with my table saw into the top bars and squeeze in my plastic starter strips - no glue or wax needed.
Thanks for the tips. Has anyone mentioned how loud that metal non insulated roof might be for the bees to hear during rain? Thought it might be insulated with a non toxic material (wool) for sound dampening.
Amazing video Gene. And very helpful. I'm interested in the information about adding and or keeping extra space at the bottom of the hive for better ventilation for summer and winter, and having it help the queen lay down future. As you know, I have modified my frames to be 18.5" deep. Would you feel it would be a good idea to add a Slatted Rack to my hive? Or just add a 2" shim? Thanks my friend. P.S. By the way, my hive is thriving--can't wait to share a video.
late to the party. questions. if you have an inside cover attached to the roof how do you feed sugar water? also, bought an expensive extractor that wont fit those frames. so, has anyone come up with a frame that detaches halfway down so it can be put into a standard extractor. perhaps the two side rails can have a tongue and groove type fitting?????
I used the basic plans from horizontal hive, but just came up with the hinged roof idea on my own after about 3 different versions of the one shown in the video. I like this one best.
I have been researching hive types and I like this particular one but I have one major issue. I can't find a honey extractor other than the Italian one that Leo uses. The problem is that there are only a couple stateside and the manufacturer only has a few for sale in Italy. Do you know of any other 4 frame extractors available? I am about 3 hrs north of you.
Made a hive from dr Leo's plans, the label roof would have been better. It's so much easier to chek your bee's than the other. A new swarm probably would be better than an established hive moved to one. The front latch is a good idea, mine actually blew open, they didn't like that. So adding a simple latch.
NO - so if you have some of the discs that control the size of the opening, you might want to put them on in the late fall before winter sets in and mice are looking for a shelter.
I'm paying $15 per roof just for the metal covers, and I have a feeling I could shop around and get a better price, but these guys are really nice people and I like supporting local business owners, so I'll probably keep using them. Maybe I'll start asking for a bulk order discount and get a better price.
I have any thoughts on whyor why not choose a gable type of cover as opposed to a flat one? Thank you for your videos...I always enjoy them and learn from them.
I just like the way the gable roof looks vs the flat top. It still functions the same way when it comes to winter insulation, but it sheds water better. Thanks for watching!
I agree gable roof is better. Mine is 3.7:12 pitch with large overhang to buffer weather, 5" on gable ends and near 10" on sides. I don't vent my interior into the gable attic. I only vent gable attic directly to outside with layer of rigid insulation attached between gable attic plywood and interior. Then have interior have its own exterior vents on gable ends and vents on bottom. I also have 3" air space below. Can take 28 frames max and have two entrances that use HyfeGates while one can be used just for vent or completely closed. Want to add center entrance on next one. I enjoyed your video and got lots of good pointers (a lot on frames). Jealous of your extractor in the background.
Thanks for the information, as I am currently building my first Layens and frames. I see that your entrances have are about 3/4" or so from the bottom of the hive. Is there a reason not to put them flush with the bottom, or some benefit from justifying them up higher? Thanks again.
The entrance holes couldn’t be much lower. Going any lower you would be drilling into the bottom boards. One mod I do is use cedar 5/4 material (true 1”) for the bottom boards.
@@michaelmarks1391 Yes but also I just wanted to have thicker material on the bottom. The material I use ,the 5/4, is essentially 6” wide deck material. You can get untreated deck boards but I just like the Cedar. You will need (3) pieces to cover the bottom. I use a floating spline between them. From memory whatever I have to trim off two of the boards becomes these splines. I also make the hive a 1/4” taller to maintain that space between the frames and the bottom. Also… Leo uses a 1/2” tongue and grove, I just make it 1/4”. Personally I think the 1/2” is over kill.
What kind of a place do you go to to have those roofs made? And thanks for an excellent video. Been using the bamboo skewers they work great. Although I haven't tried extracting yet.
I go to a place that installs metal roofing and gutters. Just google your area and then just stop in a say hi and tell them what you need. Sometimes they just give you some scrap metal that's too small for a job, but perfect for a beekeeper.
I once thought a dead air space would be a good idea. I tested putting Langstroth framed colonies into Dadant depth poly hives to over-winter. Worst decision ever. Dead air space walls and floor became covered with black mould, only the area above the dead air space where the bees occupied was mould free. Conclusion I surmise is that dead air spaces may have some value in dry climates and Winters they are a health hazard for the bees in wet mild winters or places near coasts
On my old TBH, I drilled 5 holes that were the same since as wine corks. That way I could easily increase or decrease the opening size as desired. You may want to try that. Also, what are your thoughts on end entrances, vs on the side?
I had a TBH with the same configuration that you mention and it was an awesome hive with super strong bees. It even had a screen bottom that was open year round and they wintered great too. I think side entrances are fine. It just so happens that I've been using all the entrances along the long front side. I can't really say if there are any advantages either way except for beekeeper convenience.
Are you located in North Georgia? I think I saw that in another video. I'm in Nashville and want to copy your modifications, since it seems like we are in similar climates.
Yes, I'm about an hour north of Atlanta and you should do just fine with the modifications. It's really just about aesthetics more than anything because you still insulate the area above the brood nest the same way as a flat top Layens hive.
This year I have had problems with ants. They seem to be getting in on top where the roof section contacts the top of the box. Would a thin gasket help keep the ants out? Has anyone else had any experience with this issue? I was thinking 1 1/2" x 1/8" thick foam refrigeration gasket material would seal any unevenness in this joint.
Dr Leo suggests letting the bees get access to the roof section above the top bars, and they usually drive out ants. My only issue is that it also lets in hive beetles, so if beetles are not a problem in your area, you might just remove the last frame on the far side of your hive to allow bees to get access. I've done this on some of my colonies just by accident because I was short on frames and they keep ants out.
@@danbergquist5729 I've heard a good remedy if ants are really problematic is too sit each leg of hive stand in a dish of water? This way the ants have no way of climbing into hive to begin with.
Some of my hives have been filled to the brim five 10 frame boxes high that is I had 50 full depth frames in there and occasionally I need more room. I think your hive is way too small for the amount of cubic inches that you have inside. A strong colony of bees would be ready to swarm even though it looks large I don't think you have as much room as you need unless you take off honey during the honey flow like they do in Serbia. Some of my hives I have taken off over 32 frames and probably should have taken more because I think they may be honey bound in the first two supers.
Yeah, I modified it on my table saw - fortunately I still have my thumb. I'm doing much better and the table saw put the fear of God in me pretty good. I thought I was careful before, now I'm a safety zealot LOL!
@@enjoybeekeeping5612 wishing you the best. Hey, am I the exception to the rule in having zero SHBs and ZERO varroa mites?!?!? I’ve done several test as well as peeled open over 200 capped varroa and worker cells and nada, nothing-zero varroa! I truly believe it’s all because of my use of “Host Defense Longevity!”
Gene, I don't understand why people that don't use the standard Langsthroth hive always blow hard to show how much better their unconventional hive is. I don't see a single commercial beekeeper using Layens hive. Commercial beekeepers are in for the money and if the Layens hive gave them an advantage they would certainly be using it. Ah are you going to delete this comment too !
I agree - these are NOT well suited for commercial guys, and we'd never see them use them at this time. This doesn't mean that the "traditional" Langstroth hives are superior housing for bees - it just means that you can stick 4 colonies on a pallet and move it with a skid steer. What is happening in commercial beekeeping is NOT good for the bees, and we are already reaping what has been sown. You nailed it when you said that "Commercial beekeepers are in for the money" - too bad.
@@enjoybeekeeping5612 the only thing I see is that bees in nature prefer to build vertically ...so there are many who believe 6 Frame Deeps is the way to go. I've had very good results with this, but I'm definitely going to try a Layens as well
I can tell you from experience that if you walk into a sheet metal shop that makes AC ducts and give them dimensions of what you want, they can/will make it exactly what you ask for and it will have all the edges rolled or peened down. A lot of those guys love a break from the monotony and a challenge for the brain, so never shy away from asking. The ductwork is heavier gauge than the 24 or 26 gauge trim coils
Awesome hive, however, I hope you use fine mesh on your gable end air holes...what a nice warm place for wasps to build their nest, right above their food source.
I like the bamboo skewer feature. I've had a little trouble with frames 'blowing out' in the extractor.
I did my homework and selected the Layens frames, horizontal hives. I appreciate your input .
Man, your video qualifies for award winning. Very detailed
Working on my first Layens hive and really appreciate your tips.
Thanks for the video. I have a similar gable roof on a horizontal hive, and I used some old drawer pulls as lift handles.
Excellent Presentation. Thanks indeed.
I got my roof on. I found a sheet of 24"x36" mini corrugated tin. Looks amazing and I installed a drip edge. Used a LOT of your ideas.
Used ECO wood of a flame scorched/wire brushed cedar hive, makes it look "old barn wood". I didn't know/think about a water based tint. Ty, for your videos, Blessed Days...
I had my roofs done like yours. I would pack loose insulation under it for winter. Great for summer air flow and sun reflection
Before I even got to listen to what you had to say I was distracted by your taped-up thumb. Got to know this is a wood worker I can identify with. I truly enjoyed to e content. Valuable information that is well explained. Thanks
I almost lost the tip of my thumb cutting frame components. I took some time off from the shop. I could have went to hospital but opted to self administer and it healed up fine except I have no feeling in the tip of the thumb - it's slowly getting feeling back, but I expect a year before it does. Thanks for noticing and please be careful too :)
@@enjoybeekeeping5612 I did it too. About 1/16th notch in the fleshy part of the tip of the thumb. didn't even nick the thumbnail. I think of it as the last warning from the saw
@@enjoybeekeeping5612I hope you get feeling back. I ran the tip of my thumb through the table saw and everything is healed except the nerve sensation. Sawdust went under my safety glasses and I instinctively reached for my eyes with my left hand and kept the right on the workpiece (just passed the blade and about to fall) it felt like a steel bar hit my thumb tip and I knew what I did.
Thanks for all your knowledge!
Nice Video you made. I use the entrance discs also for my bait hives. It is very easy to close when you pick them op. Kind regards Jacques from the Netherlands
Good tip - best wishes to you and thanks for reaching out!
Thanks for sharing this. I like that roof idea. I have built two of these hives and made the gable roofs out of plywood wrapped with aluminum flashing. But giving the current price of plywood, I like your method much better.
On mine I put screen over the vent holes in the gable ends to keep bugs out.
I built the Long Langstroth and went for the additional depth for much the same reasons as yourself. Concerned with the build up of dead bees over the winter. Also went for a hole on either end, angled upwards as much as the drill would allow. Heavy coats of paint and folk art flowers on the outside.
Thank you very much for taking the time to mention the author of Beekeeping With A Smile.
Yes sir, thanks for the feedback.
Great video! Starting bee keeping with my wife and this contained a lot of needed info. Thanks!
Wonderful- thanks!
Not a hive tip but a shop tip...I made a roller cart that the assembled hive sits on. I assemble the boxes on my workbench and as soon as the heavy box is complete, I slide it onto a rolling cart. The cart with the casters is at a height that is comfortable to work on plus you can roll it out of the way if you have several going at once. I highly recommend locking casters because there are times you don't want the cart to move. When it is time to put the hive in the truck, I just roll the hive over to the truck and slide it off the cart onto the truck bed.
I am going to have to try the 1" frames because I have squished many bees in the top end frames.
I'd love to see pics of your cart. I've been thinking of making one myself and just haven't gotten there yet. If you don't mind, email me at enjoybeekeeping@gmail.com
Thanks!
So, what about screwing 3 or 4 langstroth deep boxes side by side and drilling some bee sized holes between them for bee access and ventilation, then maybe cover the outside with a thin plywood and make small lids with the larger lid over that?
I've just started watching you. I live in Forsyth County.
I was just there today having breakfast! You should take a ride and come check out the bee yard. Visit enjoybeekeeping.com for my contact info.
@@enjoybeekeeping5612
Just sent an email.
Great video Gene. I have Eco Treat from Home Depot but wasn’t aware they will tint it free once mixed. Sweet!!!
This is a great video. Thank you for sharing all the details.
Have you thought about screening the bottom and adding bottom for trays to capture mites and small hive beetles?
I agree the gable roof is the way to go. I typically add a couple of inches for an overhang. I'll need to look around for a supplier like you. Because of where I live, I do the box within a box design, I wanted more insulation than the 1 1/2" wood provided, though it did work as my first hive. I also prefer the roof setting on wood supports outside as well. I've had less issues with this and the hinges work better. On one hive I insulted the roof, just as an experiment. I wanted to see if the hive was cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. I still plan on using something on top of the frames. Good video, thanks for the information.
Wayne Heidler, I was curious what you learned from insulating the roof. I'm considering doing the same for the next hive or two I build.
I wondered about insulting as well. We are in the 90’s in the summer on the coast of SC
Have you made any conclusions with adding insulation permanently to the roof? I have been thinking to do that to keep the hive cool during our SC summers, and of course the winters.
Great video, keep them coming!!!!! Thanks for the tips & tricks, I’m going to experiment with them out here in southern Colorado. Also, just as a side note, I attended the same class with Dr. Leoclass
Awesome! Thank you!
In my hives i build in a mesh bottom with a tray for varoa inspection underneath. Both the mesh and the tray can be removed for inspection or cleaning without emptying the hive.
no need to worry about varoa unless you have weak bees
More practical and no bending over while working. Was thinking add a fold down work shelf on chains that you can use to clear the comb.
Thanks for a great informative video on Layens hive modifications!
Which honey extractor do you use for the Layens frames? Where would you recommend purchasing it?
Very useful detail. Thank you!
Good to compensate for the wood swelling. In one of my layens the frames became very tight to get out. I had to jam a Metal bar in which eventually returned it to its original width.
I also use the Eco staind. However when I went to my local Home Depot they had no idea what I was talking about in terms of tint. Out of curiosity what color is your tint? I prefer that.
Lots of good tips, thx for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Do you have plans for making the hive with your modifications? That would be extremely helpful as I really like the modifications you’ve added.
Hi Craig, I don't have written plans at this time, but hopefully by means of the videos I'll provide enough info that you can make these modifications on your own. I do have plans however to detail my gabled roof design for folks, so please hang in there until time permits me to get that done. Thanks for watching and Enjoy Beekeeping :)
Like your video. Is there any chance of getting a drawing of your hive so I can make one ? Also measurement if your frames. Thank you.
A saw a mason jar that would screw into bottom for a feeder. Mesh screen in jar for bees. Thoughts?
Another great video. Thanks for the tips!
Fantastic -- I just got out of beeschool where the organization essentially focused on Langstroth hives -- I didn't know much about the Layens hive until I came across your channel-- very fascinating! In your area how do you deal with stuff like Varroa? Does the Layens hive change your approach in any way, with Varroa, hive beetles, etc?
I added 2" in height then placed a false floor with screens down the middle. I cut a slot opening in each side for a slide in pan to hold vegetable oil to hopefully help control small hive beetles. It works great so far.
I'm glad to hear that since this is something I've been considering adding to the design as well.
If you use PVC elbows as entrances, you will eliminate the hive beetles.
@@BigLicker76 I seen other videos that clam this but I haven't used it yet, but I sure will soon. Thank you J. Taylor.
@@michaelyoho4848 hive beetles can't hover
@@BigLicker76
Didn't work for me
I like the simpler frames idea. What wood do you use, or use to cut to get to 1” wide
Given your other video on top ventilation and the bees plugging it up, do you still build gables roofs with vent holes in them or have you changed to unvented gable roofs?
If I took my old langstroth frames with comb and laid them in the bottom of my Laydens hive, would the bees move up to my new Laydens frames?
new to bee keeping. how do you spin the honey out of a bee made foundation? does it ruin the foundation?
I’ve built two of Dr Leo’s insulated hives with his design for the gabled roof. I used shingles I had laying around but I think I’ll contact a local HVAC company and try your tin roof idea next time. The shingles make the lid very heavy.
It was a lot of work to do the insulation so I might try the 2x10s next time. Do you feel in the north both styles would be equal in insulating the bees? Also do you glue in your starter strips?
FYI, I collected two swarms without any trouble first time out. They look like dark European bees. I’ll be doing it again next year. I put a bundle of sticks in front of the entrance to cause them to reorient when I moved them from the front yard swarm trap to the backyard hive. No issues with them returning to the front yard as I feared. The sticks really worked.
I felt that the shingled roofs would be too heavy myself and since the hive is already heavy enough I opted for a lighter version and feel it's well worth having the metal tops made. The insulation still fits underneath the flat part just fine so I see no reason it would not work fine in the northern climates as long as you are putting the insulation directly over your brood nest and using the follower board to close them down. For my starter strips, I cut a groove just wide enough that I have to gently force the plastic starter strip in and it holds just fine without using any glue.
Please tell me more about how to put the sticks in front of the hive to reorient them so you don't have to move the hives 3 miles away. Where do I get information on that?
My trap was in the front yard and my hives in the backyard. I took the trap down at night and put it on the stand next to their new home. At the same time I tied a bunch of sticks to the front that interrupted their exit from the front entrance causing all the bees to immediately reorient the next morning from the swarm trap. This looked like a small loose broom shape but with enough spaces so they weren’t blocked completely. They did reorient that day and a week later I moved them into their new home sitting next to their swarm trap. Worked like a charm. Here is Bee Boy Bob doing the same thing as he splits his hives. ua-cam.com/video/duWYJmaqnLM/v-deo.html
@@Rob_Brock thanks so much. That's really helpful. Are there any UA-cam videos on how to arrange the sticks? How many? It's just a lot better if I don't have to go move the hive three miles away for 7 days.
I used a few sticks and branches about 12 inches long and tied together at the top like a small broom. The sticks were a quarter inch in diameter. Make sure the bundle is loose so the bees have space to get through but can’t fly directly out. They need to climb across a few sticks before flying away. This acts like a tree limb that might have fallen down across the entrance. You just want to force them to engage their normal reorientation behavior.
Chamfering the edges of the body and roof also helps in opening and closing.
Great vid. Answered alot of my questions and concerns.
I wonder if logwood trap dye would suffice? it's just the shredded bark of a south American tree high in tannic acid.
Great information. I hoped you were going to say how to include the pest trays (for oil or dietenaceous earth) at the bottom...
I like to use the DE over oil. Less mess and no bad smells from dead beetles.
I also have same kind of box. So can i put 2 beehives in this by dividing this bix in to part ( sorry for bad english )
so, is there a profit to be made building these hives? What do you look for a percentage profit?
I have a question that may be stupid - I love this idea and as I get older I like the idea of not having to handle or store all the boxes and frames. So here is the question - my bee traps are this at a primitive design - then I use as nucs once the bees are caught. What would stop the design from just being a wide nuc using the standard deep frames and going 20 wide. just drill additional holes in the front. Again, maybe I am off on this but I'm trying to find a way to utilize all the deep frames I already have.
There are lots of folks doing just that - using "long Langs". I think they will work better in areas with mild winters compared to the New England states or Canada however.
@@enjoybeekeeping5612 many thanks
Loving the information you provide in your videos. My daughter and I are just starting on our beekeeping journey and already realise the commercial Langstath hive is going to be physically challenging. You talk in your video about different starter strips but not how do you actually attach them. Is it only glue you use? I have access to timber paint stirrers, but have also bought some sheets of wax sheets, can these only be used if supported by wire?
I've used fishing line instead of wire, but found a bamboo skewer also helps and it's quicker. You can pinch and nail in wax starter strips, or use hot wax to melt in a starter strip. I also cut a groove with my table saw into the top bars and squeeze in my plastic starter strips - no glue or wax needed.
Thanks for the tips. Has anyone mentioned how loud that metal non insulated roof might be for the bees to hear during rain? Thought it might be insulated with a non toxic material (wool) for sound dampening.
I never thought of that, but I'm not sure they really mind the rain sound.
@@enjoybeekeeping5612 I'm not sure either and it's likely a lot of vibration in the air too... just thoughts. Thanks for your videos.
In their natural habitat they sure wouldn’t have very loud sounding rain. Good thought Gen
Do you ever notice any wood movement with this specific hive? I ask because with plywood, it shouldn’t have near as much as solid wood would have.
Amazing video Gene. And very helpful. I'm interested in the information about adding and or keeping extra space at the bottom of the hive for better ventilation for summer and winter, and having it help the queen lay down future. As you know, I have modified my frames to be 18.5" deep. Would you feel it would be a good idea to add a Slatted Rack to my hive? Or just add a 2" shim? Thanks my friend. P.S. By the way, my hive is thriving--can't wait to share a video.
What about extracting? I have an extractor but biggest I can put in is deep langstrof frame
@@russwilkins1622 I never touch the 18.5” frames. It’s all brood and bee stores fir the hive. I have a flow hive super on top. No extraction needed
Brad that’s really smart! Do you just use standard langstrough frames for them to fill with honey?
@@charlieadams1313 no I own two cedar flow hives. Love them.
I have actually had the same idea bout adding dead space, I do have a question about it tho... Would you add dead space above or below the entrance?
Going to try the metal roof
You should cedar shingle one! 😁
When you make your hive deeper, do you add any material (peat moss, wood chips, etc) or just leave it as open air?
I do both depending on time and what I have on hand.
late to the party. questions. if you have an inside cover attached to the roof how do you feed sugar water? also, bought an expensive extractor that wont fit those frames. so, has anyone come up with a frame that detaches halfway down so it can be put into a standard extractor. perhaps the two side rails can have a tongue and groove type fitting?????
Did you use the plans from horizontal hive to build this? I’m looking for good plans. I really like what you’ve done!
I used the basic plans from horizontal hive, but just came up with the hinged roof idea on my own after about 3 different versions of the one shown in the video. I like this one best.
I have been researching hive types and I like this particular one but I have one major issue. I can't find a honey extractor other than the Italian one that Leo uses. The problem is that there are only a couple stateside and the manufacturer only has a few for sale in Italy. Do you know of any other 4 frame extractors available? I am about 3 hrs north of you.
I have a feeling Dr Leo is the only source that I'm aware of.
Betterbee
Brilliant!
Great mods! Do you have plans that include the mods?
Made a hive from dr Leo's plans, the label roof would have been better.
It's so much easier to chek your bee's than the other.
A new swarm probably would be better than an established hive moved to one. The front latch is a good idea, mine actually blew open, they didn't like that.
So adding a simple latch.
Good information! Are the round entrance holes small enough to keep mice out?
NO - so if you have some of the discs that control the size of the opening, you might want to put them on in the late fall before winter sets in and mice are looking for a shelter.
Where did you get the aluminum roofs?
What type of wood do you use for making frames?
Excellent as usual!!! Great idea to have the roof made with scrap. About how much $ per roof?
I'm paying $15 per roof just for the metal covers, and I have a feeling I could shop around and get a better price, but these guys are really nice people and I like supporting local business owners, so I'll probably keep using them. Maybe I'll start asking for a bulk order discount and get a better price.
I got a price and it was $125 per roof. What kind of place is actually give you rooms for $15. That's a steal
what was the tint color you had home depot add to your eco wood? Very good video thank you.
This batch was tinted with "chestnut", but I like to switch it up every now and then.
I made a top bar using an ammo box. They took to it right away!
I have any thoughts on whyor why not choose a gable type of cover as opposed to a flat one? Thank you for your videos...I always enjoy them and learn from them.
I just like the way the gable roof looks vs the flat top. It still functions the same way when it comes to winter insulation, but it sheds water better. Thanks for watching!
You can put a fence on a drill press and use the router bit and boom router table
Wow are plans available for this???
I agree gable roof is better. Mine is 3.7:12 pitch with large overhang to buffer weather, 5" on gable ends and near 10" on sides. I don't vent my interior into the gable attic. I only vent gable attic directly to outside with layer of rigid insulation attached between gable attic plywood and interior. Then have interior have its own exterior vents on gable ends and vents on bottom. I also have 3" air space below. Can take 28 frames max and have two entrances that use HyfeGates while one can be used just for vent or completely closed. Want to add center entrance on next one. I enjoyed your video and got lots of good pointers (a lot on frames). Jealous of your extractor in the background.
Thanks for the information, as I am currently building my first Layens and frames. I see that your entrances have are about 3/4" or so from the bottom of the hive. Is there a reason not to put them flush with the bottom, or some benefit from justifying them up higher? Thanks again.
I just followed the existing design on the bottom entrance, but I think either would work fine.
The entrance holes couldn’t be much lower. Going any lower you would be drilling into the bottom boards. One mod I do is use cedar 5/4 material (true 1”) for the bottom boards.
@@Bennett5363 You do this for rot resistance?
@@michaelmarks1391 Yes but also I just wanted to have thicker material on the bottom. The material I use ,the 5/4, is essentially 6” wide deck material. You can get untreated deck boards but I just like the Cedar. You will need (3) pieces to cover the bottom. I use a floating spline between them. From memory whatever I have to trim off two of the boards becomes these splines. I also make the hive a 1/4” taller to maintain that space between the frames and the bottom. Also… Leo uses a 1/2” tongue and grove, I just make it 1/4”. Personally I think the 1/2” is over kill.
@@Bennett5363 Thanks for the information!
what do you rip your 2x 10,s down to
What kind of a place do you go to to have those roofs made? And thanks for an excellent video. Been using the bamboo skewers they work great. Although I haven't tried extracting yet.
I go to a place that installs metal roofing and gutters. Just google your area and then just stop in a say hi and tell them what you need. Sometimes they just give you some scrap metal that's too small for a job, but perfect for a beekeeper.
So are the entrance holes below the frames?
Also will they build on that dead space below the frames?
Do you have hive plans?
I once thought a dead air space would be a good idea. I tested putting Langstroth framed colonies into Dadant depth poly hives to over-winter. Worst decision ever. Dead air space walls and floor became covered with black mould, only the area above the dead air space where the bees occupied was mould free. Conclusion I surmise is that dead air spaces may have some value in dry climates and Winters they are a health hazard for the bees in wet mild winters or places near coasts
On my old TBH, I drilled 5 holes that were the same since as wine corks. That way I could easily increase or decrease the opening size as desired. You may want to try that. Also, what are your thoughts on end entrances, vs on the side?
I had a TBH with the same configuration that you mention and it was an awesome hive with super strong bees. It even had a screen bottom that was open year round and they wintered great too. I think side entrances are fine. It just so happens that I've been using all the entrances along the long front side. I can't really say if there are any advantages either way except for beekeeper convenience.
Very much like skewer idea
Are you located in North Georgia? I think I saw that in another video. I'm in Nashville and want to copy your modifications, since it seems like we are in similar climates.
Yes, I'm about an hour north of Atlanta and you should do just fine with the modifications. It's really just about aesthetics more than anything because you still insulate the area above the brood nest the same way as a flat top Layens hive.
@@enjoybeekeeping5612 Thanks for replying. I'll keep watching.
That's very good indeed
This year I have had problems with ants. They seem to be getting in on top where the roof section contacts the top of the box. Would a thin gasket help keep the ants out? Has anyone else had any experience with this issue? I was thinking 1 1/2" x 1/8" thick foam refrigeration gasket material would seal any unevenness in this joint.
Dr Leo suggests letting the bees get access to the roof section above the top bars, and they usually drive out ants. My only issue is that it also lets in hive beetles, so if beetles are not a problem in your area, you might just remove the last frame on the far side of your hive to allow bees to get access. I've done this on some of my colonies just by accident because I was short on frames and they keep ants out.
@@enjoybeekeeping5612 Thanks for the feedback, I will try removing a frame and see how that works...Thanks again :-)
@@danbergquist5729 I've heard a good remedy if ants are really problematic is too sit each leg of hive stand in a dish of water? This way the ants have no way of climbing into hive to begin with.
The skewer works better vertical down the center.
Thumbs up!
Nice
Can you give the actaul dementions of the box please.
Can we got the plans for your roof?
Soon as I get a chance :)
It looks like a smaller version of top bar hive but frames are deeper
It's a "kissing cousin" to the top bar hive - which I also really love too!
Do you sell your hives?
oh crap, it's Andy Dufresne!
i didn't know he was a bee-keeper
What no gutters on it.😅
Some of my hives have been filled to the brim five 10 frame boxes high that is I had 50 full depth frames in there and occasionally I need more room. I think your hive is way too small for the amount of cubic inches that you have inside. A strong colony of bees would be ready to swarm even though it looks large I don't think you have as much room as you need unless you take off honey during the honey flow like they do in Serbia. Some of my hives I have taken off over 32 frames and probably should have taken more because I think they may be honey bound in the first two supers.
how do/can i order some of your hives?
We may be looking to sell some layens hives check us out instagram.com @roybalranchremedies
Send me an email to: enjoybeekeeping@gmail.com and I'll send you my prices
I see you hurt your thumb--how your on the mend.
Yeah, I modified it on my table saw - fortunately I still have my thumb. I'm doing much better and the table saw put the fear of God in me pretty good. I thought I was careful before, now I'm a safety zealot LOL!
@@enjoybeekeeping5612 wishing you the best.
Hey, am I the exception to the rule in having zero SHBs and ZERO varroa mites?!?!? I’ve done several test as well as peeled open over 200 capped varroa and worker cells and nada, nothing-zero varroa! I truly believe it’s all because of my use of “Host Defense Longevity!”
Gene, I don't understand why people that don't use the standard Langsthroth
hive always blow hard to show how much better their unconventional hive is.
I don't see a single commercial beekeeper using Layens hive.
Commercial beekeepers are in for the money and if the Layens hive gave them an advantage they would certainly be using it.
Ah are you going to delete this comment too !
I agree - these are NOT well suited for commercial guys, and we'd never see them use them at this time. This doesn't mean that the "traditional" Langstroth hives are superior housing for bees - it just means that you can stick 4 colonies on a pallet and move it with a skid steer.
What is happening in commercial beekeeping is NOT good for the bees, and we are already reaping what has been sown. You nailed it when you said that "Commercial beekeepers are in for the money" - too bad.
@@enjoybeekeeping5612 nailed it!!!
@@enjoybeekeeping5612 the only thing I see is that bees in nature prefer to build vertically ...so there are many who believe 6 Frame Deeps is the way to go. I've had very good results with this, but I'm definitely going to try a Layens as well
Talks too slow.
I am in the Houston area I would love to purchase one of these bee condos can you email me the contact info I want to order one asap!