I bought 2 of those engine stands , they were only £40 each. I made a couple of modifications to them , I extended the stem with a slightly bigger box section to make it telescopic and use a bottle jack to raise it up and down. I also attached a 50x50mm tube across the bottom as a stabiliser and hepresto I now have a cheap usable spit roast 😂 this was perfect for painting my new chassis . And I can also still use it as an engine stand . Win win
The plot thickens! But, good for us viewers to see the inside of a 2.0 litre petrol. That's going to be a lovely smooth engine when this project is done.
Hey Mike, the spacer you talk about hasn’t been missed. It’s not required for a standard 2.0l in a series 1. The holes you see in the chassis have probably been drilled to add the spacer at some point in its life to fit a later 2.25 engine. Obviously it’s now back to ‘original’ spec but still has the extra holes in the chassis.
I bought 2 of those engine stands , they were only £40 each. I made a couple of modifications to them , I extended the stem with a slightly bigger box section to make it telescopic and use a bottle jack to raise it up and down. I also attached a 50x50mm tube across the bottom as a stabiliser and hepresto I now have a cheap usable spit roast 😂 this was perfect for painting my new chassis . And I can also still use it as an engine stand . Win win
Pity it didn't have castors on the back too
Normally a 300tdi guy but thoroughly loving this work Mike. That engine is going to be cracking!
Yes I think so too!
The plot thickens!
But, good for us viewers to see the inside of a 2.0 litre petrol.
That's going to be a lovely smooth engine when this project is done.
I think so too
This isn't the only 2.0 petrol that Rover made. I really like the 'gas' Rover engines. Land Rover - Making Owner's Mechanics since 1948!
Hey Mike, the spacer you talk about hasn’t been missed. It’s not required for a standard 2.0l in a series 1. The holes you see in the chassis have probably been drilled to add the spacer at some point in its life to fit a later 2.25 engine. Obviously it’s now back to ‘original’ spec but still has the extra holes in the chassis.
Could be the centre hole was very large like the S2
Running a litre of Marvel Mystery Oil in your crankcase before teardown cleans out the sludge throughout the engine nicely. Good stuff 👍
Great tip!
Could the chain have a bit stretch in it after all those years? Definitely looks a bit slack. The vapour blaster makes a great job.
I think the problem was the tensioner - supposed to be hydraulic, but I think the ball valve was sticking open
Beautiful work on the manifold. You might want to try some ats505 to remove that sludge. It’s not cheap but boy does it clean.
It's not too bad now - I will flush the motor with a light oil run it, and change the filter before driving
I get the engine color from LRSOC. 250cc was enough to the engine and head paint and still have some to any other stuff.
Sending paint to North America is usually prohibited
@@BritannicaRestorations Yes, I see.😒
Some of the worst things to hear from a mechanic:
1. While we're in there......
2. Custom.....
3. I think it'll work.....
Has that chain stretched at all, Mike?
Not really but while I am there...
@@BritannicaRestorations good lad!
In for a penny in for a pound hey Mike.
Might as well do it all so as you know it's done.
I guess we have all been there!
Duck egg blue
That was on S2a onwards and MoD rebuilt engines
Chain does seem loose tensioner problem by looks off it
Yes - and notice these early engines didn't have guides for the chain
Will the engine stand be out of balance when you raise it, or should you widen the legs too?
I think it will be fine
I would like to have your 109
It's a S1 88"
The truck you considered letting go that was a combination build
My 130? Yeap It will be sold this year
Yes
You can contact me britrest@britrest.com