It's a Singer! I always loved the way the old Land Rover engine ran, no vibrations, no noise, just a fuss free running engine. Beautiful. Good find by the way. I would have been tempted to look at ignition etc.
That sounded as convoluted to find as the problem I had with the 200di I have in the old girl was.....rough running and idle was the symptom, a loose cover plate on the injector pump was the eventual cause....took me bleedin ages to sort that one!
My s2 2-1/4 petrol was a nightmare of poor starting and lumpy running and about 14mpg! I fabbed up a 90deg long manifold and fitted a single. 1-3/4 SU, better starting, smooth running and 22 mpg, although most of that was probably down to porosity in the old carb castings! Phil
The old Zeniths had problems with the castings warping - you could never get the mixture right Edit - I fitted a 1-1/2 SU to a 1300 MK 1 Escort back in the day, and it was very economical SU were the best car in my opinion for simplicity and economy - the downside was the floats leaked but a Viton tipped needle sorted that out!
I would say distributor-less ignition has been tried and tested on millions of vehicles over the years and I think it is great - crank sensor and a very simple ecu is all you need - no points bounce, shaft wear, capacitors, rotor arms, caps, damp, advance and retard etc In other words - no moving parts HOWEVER The combined it with fuel injection and that was the issue - then it got complicated (especially with emissions and all the shite that went with it) SU carb - simple as and easy to tune - end of.
@@BritannicaRestorations I'm looking at it from the point of view of a really old guy who understands the workings of the old gubbins, I can test and change a condenser, points, coil etc, once an electronic ignition component fails I have no idea. Because it was "the thing to do", and no other reason, I put breaker-less ignition into my Triumph motorcycle, had issues and so put the points back in, it worked fine.
I understand, but when you have a crank positioning sensor which is really a magnetic switch, then the rest is easy as the switch will only 'turn on' at a set point - the ecu can work out the rpm and adjust the advance and retard accordingly - in milliseconds HOWEVER! Retro fitting electronic ignition using a crank sensor is not the same as breakerless I have electronic 'points' in the S1, and it works perfectly, but not the same as true electronic ignition - which in today's electronics would fit in a woodbine packet!
Always fascinating seeing these old girls run. Fantastic educational content as always, love and look forward to your adventures. Stay well from Jonathan in Kidderminster Worcestershire
Just rebuilt mine today. The idle jet thingy on the side (#23), ran like crap until i opened it just a wee bit and it smoothed out. Curious- it has a little set screw coming into the side of the body, presumably to lock the threads once adjusted. Anyways, runs fine now. Thanks again 👍 PS- still got your raccoon? Great little guy.
Nice to see me jet again! When you took it out (pardon!) to show us, did you need to count the turns on the mixture screw to be able to put it back in at the right place - or doesn't it work like that? Weird how it just stopped idling and it took a new jet to sort it. In any case it sounds and runs great. Glad the jets helped.
The idle fuel enters the jet via the small hole at the end of the jet, where it then mixes with air. Most think the fuel comes out of the tiny hole.....but its the other way around....so you get a blockage in the actual jet body itself.... just a bit of crud floating around trapped within the jet body. Because fuel has slightly less energy than years gone by, for example the use of Ethanol mix in petrol, I have noticed that with all the carbs I set up, they need to be just a touch richer than 'the book' written in the 70s😀 to find the sweet spot. The 52 jet is actually a .52.5...so exactly half way between a .50 and a .55 so you can dial it in nicely.
Thanks for the info, Mike. I have the same carb on my 2.25 and it's always run rich. I live at just over 6,000 feet elevation, and I know these carbs are jetted for sea level, so I've been considering rejetting it for my altitude. The guidance I've seen is to go down one jet size for every 1000 feet once you're above 3000 feet. Do you have a link to the site where you got the jets?
Mike good morning,from experience having converted many land rovers to Webber carbs,back in the day,what you are suffering from is a build up of Alloy in the float chamber,this is caused by the material that the carb is made from gently dissolving when it come into contact with unleaded petrol,Webber had quite a problem with this happening,but solved it in the end by changing the alloy for the original mayzac to a higher grade that resists the effect of the fuel dissolving the body. All that is interesting but won't solve your problem,however this occurs more usually in vehicles that are infrequently used as the fuel sits in the float chamber and remains until it evaporates leaving a deposit Now I know that this is going on a bit but stick with me and I will give you some tips as how to prevent the alloy being affected in this way If you think back to when unleaded was first introduced here in the U.K we had great problems with pinking and hot running not to mention valve seat recession caused by the removal of the lead from the fuel. How we got round this ,well a couple of three ways ,you can if you wish get hold of some roofing lead and put a roll of it in the fuel tank where it will dissolve into the fuel very gently over time this will help to a certain extent, or take a couple of small pieces and place them in the bottom of the float chamber being careful not to block any passages!!.. and making sure that the float hight is not disturbed . However the best way ,if you can get your hands on one is a product that used to be marketed by a company called fuel saver which is to all purposes a tinning device consisting of a tube with a fuel union at each end, and inside a lot of small lead balls which the fuel passes through and picks up enough lead in doing so to prevent the problem occurring I don't know if these things are still available,but they work brilliantly and would be well worth trying to find one for your LR Be good to hear how you get on with it Cheers from Bristol. Reuben aka Mr Coggins.
Ethanol, it corrodes brass. Ask any classic bike, owner it attacks the pilot jet first more often after a layup. Perhaps an SU might be a better bet its only got one jet with a big hole and a needle that wipes it clean.
@@BritannicaRestorations Sorry my fault I didn't explain it properly. The Ethanol corrosion causes a growth similar to Verdigris and its this that blocks small jets and its a well known big problem for carburettors especially those fitted to old motorcycles .
Based on recent reference to the Owner's Handbook, Mike will doubtless send them a stiffly worded telegram before departing. "It's fxxxing stopping. STOP I can't stop this STOP. I'll be stopping by next week. STOP. hope you can stop it STOP. And that's before I start my brake stopping trouble. STOP. "
@@BritannicaRestorations On a less frivolous note, the last time I attempted to exhume my Series One from the shed it was spitting back through the carb when attempting throttle opening. It has been retrofitted with a Weber, which seemed fine previously . This was probably just before they started watering down petrol with corn fed ethanol. I've put this down as maybe a sticky inlet valve or rusted valve seat. Any opinions welcomed.
Brings back the memories playing on my weber. 😁
Cheers King Mike. 🥃
Love your videos you make a big difference in terms of helping on the landrover world
Thank you !
It's a Singer! I always loved the way the old Land Rover engine ran, no vibrations, no noise, just a fuss free running engine. Beautiful. Good find by the way. I would have been tempted to look at ignition etc.
Well said!
Love a 34 Weber on a petrol Landy. Tick over at 100 rpm. Silent !!
Spot on with the detective work yet again 👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it
That sounded as convoluted to find as the problem I had with the 200di I have in the old girl was.....rough running and idle was the symptom, a loose cover plate on the injector pump was the eventual cause....took me bleedin ages to sort that one!
My s2 2-1/4 petrol was a nightmare of poor starting and lumpy running and about 14mpg! I fabbed up a 90deg long manifold and fitted a single. 1-3/4 SU, better starting, smooth running and 22 mpg, although most of that was probably down to porosity in the old carb castings!
Phil
The old Zeniths had problems with the castings warping - you could never get the mixture right
Edit - I fitted a 1-1/2 SU to a 1300 MK 1 Escort back in the day, and it was very economical
SU were the best car in my opinion for simplicity and economy - the downside was the floats leaked but a Viton tipped needle sorted that out!
That is pretty good for an 2.25p. my s3 does 20/21 uk mpg with a Weber carb. I do have a fancy programable distributor though
I still long for the simple life of distributors and the simple carburetor. Where have we gone wrong?
I would say distributor-less ignition has been tried and tested on millions of vehicles over the years and I think it is great - crank sensor and a very simple ecu is all you need - no points bounce, shaft wear, capacitors, rotor arms, caps, damp, advance and retard etc
In other words - no moving parts
HOWEVER
The combined it with fuel injection and that was the issue - then it got complicated (especially with emissions and all the shite that went with it)
SU carb - simple as and easy to tune - end of.
@@BritannicaRestorations I'm looking at it from the point of view of a really old guy who understands the workings of the old gubbins, I can test and change a condenser, points, coil etc, once an electronic ignition component fails I have no idea. Because it was "the thing to do", and no other reason, I put breaker-less ignition into my Triumph motorcycle, had issues and so put the points back in, it worked fine.
I understand, but when you have a crank positioning sensor which is really a magnetic switch, then the rest is easy as the switch will only 'turn on' at a set point - the ecu can work out the rpm and adjust the advance and retard accordingly - in milliseconds
HOWEVER! Retro fitting electronic ignition using a crank sensor is not the same as breakerless
I have electronic 'points' in the S1, and it works perfectly, but not the same as true electronic ignition - which in today's electronics would fit in a woodbine packet!
Always fascinating seeing these old girls run. Fantastic educational content as always, love and look forward to your adventures. Stay well from Jonathan in Kidderminster Worcestershire
Glad you enjoyed it
Great video, Mike. A lovely car - don't sell it!
May have to go one day..
I never use it now
Nice one Mike .
Just rebuilt mine today. The idle jet thingy on the side (#23), ran like crap until i opened it just a wee bit and it smoothed out. Curious- it has a little set screw coming into the side of the body, presumably to lock the threads once adjusted. Anyways, runs fine now. Thanks again 👍
PS- still got your raccoon? Great little guy.
You may have to fit a larger jet - took me a while to work it out
Nice to see me jet again! When you took it out (pardon!) to show us, did you need to count the turns on the mixture screw to be able to put it back in at the right place - or doesn't it work like that? Weird how it just stopped idling and it took a new jet to sort it. In any case it sounds and runs great. Glad the jets helped.
One and a half turns out is a rule of thumb - thanks for sending them over!
I like the new Spanish 110 intro, it adds a little something to the video format. How are they getting on with the Spanish 110, do you know?
Spanish 110 now has a new owner in Toronto!
The idle fuel enters the jet via the small hole at the end of the jet, where it then mixes with air.
Most think the fuel comes out of the tiny hole.....but its the other way around....so you get a blockage in the actual jet body itself....
just a bit of crud floating around trapped within the jet body. Because fuel has slightly less energy than years gone by, for example the use of Ethanol mix in petrol, I have noticed that with all the carbs I set up, they need to be just a touch richer than 'the book' written in the 70s😀 to find the sweet spot. The 52 jet is actually a .52.5...so exactly half way between a .50 and a .55 so you can dial it in nicely.
Good to know
Same carb as old ford cortina escort mike
if you struggle with getting the correct jet size, you can always solder up the original and re-drill to spec size, would get you in the ball park.
IF you had a drill that small! Lol!
Thanks for the info, Mike. I have the same carb on my 2.25 and it's always run rich. I live at just over 6,000 feet elevation, and I know these carbs are jetted for sea level, so I've been considering rejetting it for my altitude. The guidance I've seen is to go down one jet size for every 1000 feet once you're above 3000 feet. Do you have a link to the site where you got the jets?
www.webcon.co.uk/
Mike good morning,from experience having converted many land rovers to Webber carbs,back in the day,what you are suffering from is a build up of Alloy in the float chamber,this is caused by the material that the carb is made from gently dissolving when it come into contact with unleaded petrol,Webber had quite a problem with this happening,but solved it in the end by changing the alloy for the original mayzac to a higher grade that resists the effect of the fuel dissolving the body.
All that is interesting but won't solve your problem,however this occurs more usually in vehicles that are infrequently used as the fuel sits in the float chamber and remains until it evaporates leaving a deposit
Now I know that this is going on a bit but stick with me and I will give you some tips as how to prevent the alloy being affected in this way
If you think back to when unleaded was first introduced here in the U.K we had great problems with pinking and hot running not to mention valve seat recession caused by the removal of the lead from the fuel.
How we got round this ,well a couple of three ways ,you can if you wish get hold of some roofing lead and put a roll of it in the fuel tank where it will dissolve into the fuel very gently over time this will help to a certain extent, or take a couple of small pieces and place them in the bottom of the float chamber being careful not to block any passages!!.. and making sure that the float hight is not disturbed .
However the best way ,if you can get your hands on one is a product that used to be marketed by a company called fuel saver which is to all purposes a tinning device consisting of a tube with a fuel union at each end, and inside a lot of small lead balls which the fuel passes through and picks up enough lead in doing so to prevent the problem occurring I don't know if these things are still available,but they work brilliantly and would be well worth trying to find one for your LR
Be good to hear how you get on with it Cheers from Bristol. Reuben aka Mr Coggins.
So much for the lead substitute I was using in the petrol!
That can be of some use in helping to lessen the valve seat regression,but not effective in preventing the deterioration of the alloy
I might have piece of asbestos cloth .it might work lol
Back of the class Chris - you said the 'A' word!
Lol!
Ethanol, it corrodes brass. Ask any classic bike, owner it attacks the pilot jet first more often after a layup. Perhaps an SU might be a better bet its only got one jet with a big hole and a needle that wipes it clean.
If it wore the brass than the engine would run rich surely?
@@BritannicaRestorations Sorry my fault I didn't explain it properly.
The Ethanol corrosion causes a growth similar to Verdigris and its this that blocks small jets and its a well known big problem for carburettors especially those fitted to old motorcycles .
E10 fuel over here is a nightmare
Where is here? Is that a litre?
@@BritannicaRestorations England e10 fuel is a nightmare with old carbs
Try taking it to the dealership for service..
Based on recent reference to the Owner's Handbook, Mike will doubtless send them a stiffly worded telegram before departing. "It's fxxxing stopping. STOP I can't stop this STOP. I'll be stopping by next week. STOP. hope you can stop it STOP. And that's before I start my brake stopping trouble. STOP. "
STOP - Hammer time!
@@BritannicaRestorations On a less frivolous note, the last time I attempted to exhume my Series One from the shed it was spitting back through the carb when attempting throttle opening. It has been retrofitted with a Weber, which seemed fine previously . This was probably just before they started watering down petrol with corn fed ethanol. I've put this down as maybe a sticky inlet valve or rusted valve seat. Any opinions welcomed.