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Great explanation. A key is tank volume turnover. The remaining organics are cycled through the filter again to transform it to an inert state at a nitrate level.
One thing I think people are doing that could lead to these thoughts of it being dangerous to the bacteria is, they probably only use one type of filter on every tank. I prefer two. Something like a hob or canister or internal power filter AND a sponge filter in a corner. Sponges are great and if the power blinks out when you are at work it doesn't need primed and will help maintain your tank until you can get back home and see the problem. It also helps you use your hob/canister/internal as a more defined tool. Meaning you can set it up for extra biological filtration if you have clear water but high nitrate and nitrites. On the flip side if water quality is good but you have smaller particles floating you can add finer sponges to act as a water polisher. The best advice I got from my fish store was simply "always have two filter options on any tank with fish you'll be sad to loose"
Thank you for explaining where the Purigen should be placed in a HOB filter I had it wrong and that explains a lot for me. I’ll be replacing by biomax material tomorrow along with Purigen it’s due to be changed. New to your site but love it so far! 😊
Awesome, thank you! Glad it was helpful. Not enough people explain it correctly. Im probably going to make an updated version of this soon because i think i can do a better job
I thought you wanted the more coarse sponge before the fine filter floss...so the bigger debris gets caught first and then the smaller stuff passes through. But I suppose it doesn't matter that much.
So in a canister filter like an fx6 you would want the coarse sponge before filter floss to make the floss last longer so you don’t have to break it down as much. In a sump it’s common to use a filter sock or a section of filter floss near the beginning of the flow to catch as much debris as possible, and to change out that floss or filter sock more often, because it’s much easier to access. In many cases it’s just pull the sock out and drop a new one in there so you don’t have to turn off your pumps and deep clean the sump very often.
Those fish are bichir (bye-shure or bih-sheer). They are members of the polypterus family. I have a couple endlichiri bichir, a couple ornate bichir, a Delhezi bichir, and a Senegal bichir. If you’re interested in them I got some videos of them up on the channel
Shit works gooooood man I was doing water changes weekly in my 5 gallon now it’s every two weeks much appreciated not even slightly stressed out price is tooo much but it’s good
It will help remove excess nutirents and make the water mkr clean, but for brown diatoms specifically I would use seachem phosguard. Diatoms need silicates in the water to grow so phosguard starves them out :)
when you set up an undergravel filteryou understand that its not something youre going to be adding too, often. That said, you can hang a bag of purigen in a tank short term to clarify the water. I have personally clamped the bags near the rim of a tank many times. Its obviously not as optimal as adding it to a hang on the back filter or canister filter but you cant expect every product to be 100% compatible with every other filter solution
100% positively no reason to use carbon at all unless it's to remove meds (certain chemicals/tannins) or smell from your water. Otherwise it's a pointless waste of money.
@Fathom Aquatics If you have ANY of those things in your aquarium, it would be best to give up the hobby cause you have absolutely no clue on what you're doing.
The best size for you would be the 100ml pouch. That should last a while and give you good results. If you look in the video description and scroll down to chemical media and click the purigen link, just choose the 100ml pouch option :)
The "need" for purigen is a direct representation of a poorly maintained, poorly set up or undersized filtration system along with or too much bio-load for the aquarium as a result of an over populated tank or overfeeding. A properly set up aquarium has absolutely 100% no need for purigen at all. Not my opinion, that is fact.
Correct! Most people use is purely to polish water. I lived in Germany for a while and they absolutely love the stuff there. No question it helps to improve water clarity.
@Andreas Hessler It's odd then, my water is literally crystal clear and I've never used purigen, ever. I mean crystal clear. You wouldn't be able to even tell there's water in the tank if it weren't for the bubbles rising from airstones.
@@gunnerneikoify I don't use it either. I don't generally overfeed or overstock and I keep up with my tank maintenance/filtration is good (my water is also crystal clear). However, purigen does a job if it's your thing. A colleague of mine keeps a big overstocked Malawi tank and he swears by it.
This product isnt as great as the hype over it.....go ahead....have soft water youre trying to buffer up? The difference between activated carbon and Purigen is, Purigen will remove the waters capacity to buffer leading to an extremely quick PH crash. Activated carbon is still the superior product to use in this situation.
This is not true at all. First of all there is a big difference between activated carbon and any resin polymer to include purigen and chemipure blue/green. You’re looking at comparing apples to oranges because they have one thing in common. Purigen does not remove water’s capacity to buffer in any significant way. You do whatever you want but don’t be spreading misinformation in my comments. PM me a study or journal from a reputable source that claims that purigen is removing buffer capacity in a significant amount and that purigen is causing ph crashes. Go ahead let’s see it
This is not true at all. First of all there is a big difference between activated carbon and any resin polymer to include purigen and chemipure blue/green. You’re looking at comparing apples to oranges because they have one thing in common. Purigen does not remove water’s capacity to buffer in any significant way. You do whatever you want but don’t be spreading misinformation in my comments. PM me a study or journal from a reputable source that claims that purigen is removing buffer capacity in a significant amount and that purigen is causing ph crashes. Go ahead let’s see it
@@FathomAquatics This is what happened in my case less than 2 hours after putting it in the filter. Took it out, put the carbon back, and Ph began climbing again. Purigen is all I did differently.
@@JTCT371 there’s nothing in purigen that would raise PH though. The only thing I can think of is if there’s high tannins there might be a minimal change but the compounds are still in the water. I would explore what other things could be effecting the ph short term like if it was close to a water change and the fresh water was still gassing off or if the new water was still equalizing. There’s gotta be another explanation. It’s like saying an inert object raised your ph and when you took it out it went back down - there has to be something else going on at the same time because if something is inert it cannot be the reason for oh swings
@@FathomAquatics My PH didn't rise. It crashed from 6.8 to 6.0 in less than 2 hours, its all I did differently...checked PH before placing it in. This is not misinformation, this is the reality of my experimentation with a product. Whatever benefit the crush coral I used was giving to the slow rising of my PH was completely filtered out of the aquarium water, by the Purigen. And Im 100% sure of it.
I have like 8 bags and I use two at a time and when I'm down to the last two I renew the dark bags. I'm in the process of making a guide for that if you want to check back soon. It's pretty easy. I know some people say they never rewnew it and just tthrownit away because they don't want kids running around bleach and stuff but you can renew in a sealed container and responsibly put it out of reach of any pets or children. The bags end up being like $10 each so you really are just wasting money and also keeping extra trash out of the landfills when you renew them.
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Thank you! Still learning about the Nitrogen cycle. You've helped me with realistic expectations of filtration products.
Great explanation. A key is tank volume turnover. The remaining organics are cycled through the filter again to transform it to an inert state at a nitrate level.
Great point!
One thing I think people are doing that could lead to these thoughts of it being dangerous to the bacteria is, they probably only use one type of filter on every tank. I prefer two. Something like a hob or canister or internal power filter AND a sponge filter in a corner. Sponges are great and if the power blinks out when you are at work it doesn't need primed and will help maintain your tank until you can get back home and see the problem. It also helps you use your hob/canister/internal as a more defined tool. Meaning you can set it up for extra biological filtration if you have clear water but high nitrate and nitrites. On the flip side if water quality is good but you have smaller particles floating you can add finer sponges to act as a water polisher. The best advice I got from my fish store was simply "always have two filter options on any tank with fish you'll be sad to loose"
Great tip! I have at least two filters on my big tanks so this checks out
Thank you for explaining where the Purigen should be placed in a HOB filter I had it wrong and that explains a lot for me. I’ll be replacing by biomax material tomorrow along with Purigen it’s due to be changed. New to your site but love it so far! 😊
@@zoradavinci3 thanks for stopping by!
Love your explanation on this. Exactly the clarity that I was looking for to be able to understand. Just subbed. Thank you!!
Awesome, thank you! Glad it was helpful. Not enough people explain it correctly. Im probably going to make an updated version of this soon because i think i can do a better job
Such a helpful video, thank you so much!
Thanks for stopping by :)
Absolutely 💯 percent
Thank for your time in creating this amazing video. quick question, do I have to pre rinse the Purigen with water before running the filter pump
You don’t have to but it might have some fine white powder that will rinse off if you choose to rinse it in a sink.
sweet, thank you for the quick reply!@@FathomAquatics
Do any of the alternatives work as well and how long until you have to switch out the purigen?
I thought you wanted the more coarse sponge before the fine filter floss...so the bigger debris gets caught first and then the smaller stuff passes through. But I suppose it doesn't matter that much.
So in a canister filter like an fx6 you would want the coarse sponge before filter floss to make the floss last longer so you don’t have to break it down as much. In a sump it’s common to use a filter sock or a section of filter floss near the beginning of the flow to catch as much debris as possible, and to change out that floss or filter sock more often, because it’s much easier to access. In many cases it’s just pull the sock out and drop a new one in there so you don’t have to turn off your pumps and deep clean the sump very often.
@@FathomAquatics OK, yeah that makes sense. Thanks for explaining.
This was a really great video.
Thank you, Glad you think so!
Using this as a polishing filter on my HOB for easy access and rechsrge instead of it being on my canister filter.
These work great in HOBs!
Great explanation and very informative 👍
Thanks, Glad you liked it!
Great video best explanation
Thank you!
What type of fish are those at the end? Good video, thanks. After planting submerged plants I had to switch from activated carbon to purigen.
Those fish are bichir (bye-shure or bih-sheer). They are members of the polypterus family. I have a couple endlichiri bichir, a couple ornate bichir, a Delhezi bichir, and a Senegal bichir. If you’re interested in them I got some videos of them up on the channel
@@FathomAquatics Thanks. I have seen senegal up close. But yours looked bigger.
@@rahulgkhs yeah the fish in that tank are not senegals they are much bigger species of bichir
Shit works gooooood man I was doing water changes weekly in my 5 gallon now it’s every two weeks much appreciated not even slightly stressed out price is tooo much but it’s good
This is some great info
Thanks glad you got something out of this
i have 5.5 gallon with growing diatoms (brown algae). will this work for me?
It will help remove excess nutirents and make the water mkr clean, but for brown diatoms specifically I would use seachem phosguard. Diatoms need silicates in the water to grow so phosguard starves them out :)
Thanks
Thank you so much I’m glad you got something out of this video!
I been a long time user of carbon . Purigen is now my new go too. If it was harmful, my plants would die first.
But what if you're using an undergravel filter?
when you set up an undergravel filteryou understand that its not something youre going to be adding too, often. That said, you can hang a bag of purigen in a tank short term to clarify the water. I have personally clamped the bags near the rim of a tank many times. Its obviously not as optimal as adding it to a hang on the back filter or canister filter but you cant expect every product to be 100% compatible with every other filter solution
Fathom Should carbon be used along side Purigen? Thanks.
100% positively no reason to use carbon at all unless it's to remove meds (certain chemicals/tannins) or smell from your water. Otherwise it's a pointless waste of money.
You can use carbon as well as purigen at the same time. You can clear tannins in the water very fast with both
@@gunnerneikoify Not everything on this list is a med or odor related..
Per the book “Treatment of Water by Granular Activated carbon”, McGuire, the followings can be removed by activated carbon:
Mineral oil, BTEX, Poly aromatic hydrocarbons (PACs), 2,4-D, Deisopropyltatrazine, Linuron, Alachlor, Desethylatrazine, Malathion, Aldrin, Demeton-O, MCPA, Anthracene, Di-n-butylphthalate, Mecoprop, Atrazine, 1,2-Dichlorobenzene, Metazachlor, Aziphos-ethyl, 1,3-Dichlorobenzene, 2- Methyl benzenamine, Bentazone, 1,4-Dichlorobenzene, Methyl naphthalene, Biphenil, 2,4- Dichlorocresol, 2-Methylbutane, 2,2-Bipyridine, 2,5-Dichlorophenol, Monuron, Bis(2-Ethylhexyl) Phthalate, 3,6-Dichlorophenol, Napthalene, Bromacil, 2,4-Dichlorophenoxy, Nitrobenzene, Bromodichloromethane, Dieldrin, m-Nitrophenol, p-Bromophenol, Diethylphthalate, o-Nitrophenol, Butylbenzene, 2,4-Dinitrocresol, p-Nitrophenol, 2,4-Dinitrotoluene, Ozone, Carbofuran, 2,6- Dinitrotoluene, Parathion, Diuron, Pentachlorophenol, Endosulfan, Propazine, Chlorobenzene, Endrin, Simazine, 4-Chloro-2-nitrotoluene, Ethylbenzene, Terbutryn, 2-Chlorophenol, Hezachlorobenzene, Tetrachloroethylene, Chlorotoluene, Hezachlorobutadiene, Triclopyr,
Chrysene, Hexane, 1,3,5-Trimethylbenzene, m-Cresol, Isodrin, m-Xylene, Cyanazine, Isooctane, o. Xylene, Cyclohexane, Isoproturon, p-Xylene, DDT, Lindane, 2,4-Xylenol, Aniline ,Dibromo-3 chloropropane, 1 Pentanol, Benzene, Dibromochloromethane, Phenol, Benzyl alcohol, 1, 1- Dichloroethylene, Phenylalanine, Benzoic acid, cis- 1,2- Dichloroethylene, o-Phthalic acid, Bis(2-
chloroethyl) ethe, rtrans-1,2- Dichloroethylene, Styrene, Bromodichloromethane, 1,2. Dichloropropane, 1, 1,2,2-Tetrachloroethane, Bromoform, Ethylene, Toluene, Carbon tetrachloride, Hydroquinone, 1, 1, 1-Trichloroethane, 1-Chloropropane, Methyl Isobutyl Ketone, Trichloroethylene,
Chlorotoluron, 4-Methylbenzenamine , Vinyl acetate
@Fathom Aquatics If you have ANY of those things in your aquarium, it would be best to give up the hobby cause you have absolutely no clue on what you're doing.
How much Purigen should I use on 250 litre tank?
The best size for you would be the 100ml pouch. That should last a while and give you good results. If you look in the video description and scroll down to chemical media and click the purigen link, just choose the 100ml pouch option :)
As much as you want
What about fx6 set up
It's most efficient to have it in the very bottom basket of an fx6.
The "need" for purigen is a direct representation of a poorly maintained, poorly set up or undersized filtration system along with or too much bio-load for the aquarium as a result of an over populated tank or overfeeding. A properly set up aquarium has absolutely 100% no need for purigen at all. Not my opinion, that is fact.
😂 it’s just a tool for managing nitrates between water changes. You don’t need it, it just helps.
Correct! Most people use is purely to polish water. I lived in Germany for a while and they absolutely love the stuff there.
No question it helps to improve water clarity.
@Andreas Hessler It's odd then, my water is literally crystal clear and I've never used purigen, ever. I mean crystal clear. You wouldn't be able to even tell there's water in the tank if it weren't for the bubbles rising from airstones.
@@gunnerneikoify yeah there’s more than one way to polish water…
@@gunnerneikoify I don't use it either. I don't generally overfeed or overstock and I keep up with my tank maintenance/filtration is good (my water is also crystal clear). However, purigen does a job if it's your thing. A colleague of mine keeps a big overstocked Malawi tank and he swears by it.
This product isnt as great as the hype over it.....go ahead....have soft water youre trying to buffer up? The difference between activated carbon and Purigen is, Purigen will remove the waters capacity to buffer leading to an extremely quick PH crash. Activated carbon is still the superior product to use in this situation.
This is not true at all. First of all there is a big difference between activated carbon and any resin polymer to include purigen and chemipure blue/green. You’re looking at comparing apples to oranges because they have one thing in common. Purigen does not remove water’s capacity to buffer in any significant way. You do whatever you want but don’t be spreading misinformation in my comments. PM me a study or journal from a reputable source that claims that purigen is removing buffer capacity in a significant amount and that purigen is causing ph crashes. Go ahead let’s see it
This is not true at all. First of all there is a big difference between activated carbon and any resin polymer to include purigen and chemipure blue/green. You’re looking at comparing apples to oranges because they have one thing in common. Purigen does not remove water’s capacity to buffer in any significant way. You do whatever you want but don’t be spreading misinformation in my comments. PM me a study or journal from a reputable source that claims that purigen is removing buffer capacity in a significant amount and that purigen is causing ph crashes. Go ahead let’s see it
@@FathomAquatics This is what happened in my case less than 2 hours after putting it in the filter.
Took it out, put the carbon back, and Ph began climbing again. Purigen is all I did differently.
@@JTCT371 there’s nothing in purigen that would raise PH though. The only thing I can think of is if there’s high tannins there might be a minimal change but the compounds are still in the water. I would explore what other things could be effecting the ph short term like if it was close to a water change and the fresh water was still gassing off or if the new water was still equalizing. There’s gotta be another explanation. It’s like saying an inert object raised your ph and when you took it out it went back down - there has to be something else going on at the same time because if something is inert it cannot be the reason for oh swings
@@FathomAquatics My PH didn't rise. It crashed from 6.8 to 6.0 in less than 2 hours, its all I did differently...checked PH before placing it in. This is not misinformation, this is the reality of my experimentation with a product. Whatever benefit the crush coral I used was giving to the slow rising of my PH was completely filtered out of the aquarium water, by the Purigen. And Im 100% sure of it.
how many times do you personally renew your purigen?
I have like 8 bags and I use two at a time and when I'm down to the last two I renew the dark bags. I'm in the process of making a guide for that if you want to check back soon. It's pretty easy. I know some people say they never rewnew it and just tthrownit away because they don't want kids running around bleach and stuff but you can renew in a sealed container and responsibly put it out of reach of any pets or children. The bags end up being like $10 each so you really are just wasting money and also keeping extra trash out of the landfills when you renew them.