@@juanbarturen2726 thank you. The 53 is still in the family and will stay in the family. Eventually we will have the opportunity to finish it and share that process with everyone.
I liked your installation... I did the same except my aim was to eliminate through-bolts going through the wood to hold the box to the frame. I used the same square tubing you used instead of the wood blocks but I welded the steel blocks to the cross-sills instead of the frame. Drilled a square hole in the bottom of the square tubing pieces and a bigger round hole in the cross-sill to accept carriage bolts. I too use truck mud flaps for all my rubber cushion needs... One trick I've gleaned from you video is to drill the bottom of the frame to clear a socket and attach the front cross-sill to the upper flange of my boxed frame. That will eliminate the protruding nut and bolt that gets in the way of my hoist's rear pads.
NICE job on the truck! I am in the middle of rebuilding my 1947 Chevy 3/4 ton. I'm not going as FAR as you are, but it is down to every nut, bolt, and rusted washer!
The reason I couldn’t weld the nuts on is because the bed is held down with carriage bolts in the wood floor of the bed so you have to tighten them from below.
Forgive me, what are the wood boxes for? They didn't come from the factory like that. Why would someone want those blocks of wood? I must be missing something here?
thank was looking for some instruction on mounting the bed , can you show where the cross braces go . One other thing do you have any video on the rear cab mounts and how to shim it.
Hey good evening. Just wondering if you could give me some information on how you built your custom crossmember with the driveshaft loop. I really like what you did with it. Where did you get a bent pipe like that? I presume it’s a 2” pipe. Also what wall thickness? How far apart did you space your exhaust cutouts? Do you have a video of making that crossmember? Thanks for your time.
Hey Brad thanks for the question I got the tubing loop from Art Morrison industries the part number is 33330125 it sells for 35 bucks the tubing is 1-7/8 and the crossmember was 2 x 5 with a wall thickness at .188 or 3/16 , the exhaust cut outs are 8 inches from the inside of the frame to the center of the cut out.
Hi Steven. I understand perfectly, about the steel. But for some reason, I haven’t found the sizes of the “wooden blocks”. Can you give them to me? Thanks and have a great day.
Here’s your dimensions Mark, the wood blocks are 1 3/4“ x 2 1/4“ and 2 1/ 8th inches tall and there’s a 1/2 inch hole through the center. Hope that helps Mark.
@@idahofabricator8710 I'm holding it my hand lol! I should just get your email cuz I feel like I'm gonna need a lot of helping figuring out this body lol
its for, when u drill through the bed wood carrage bolt.the washer should be counter-sunk even with the bed-wood. it is offset so that when you install the bed on the frame, the washer wont spin around
No my original bed was usable somebody had taken 3/16 inch plate steel and stick welded it all around the perimeter for a bed floor and they also welded it to the cross sills underneath that welding severely warped all the panels so I bought a new bed from Mar-k I believe it cost 1300 and that included everything, cross sills new tailgate with hidden hardware and the quality is amazing
Robert, thanks for the question. I got my fuel tank from a company called Tanks Inc. they have all kinds of fuel tanks. I knew the measurements of the frame in the area that I wanted the tank to fit in, I wanted to have the fuel filler coming out of the left rear fender and I wanted it set up for fuel injection, so I chose a tank for a 1941 to 48 Ford. They give you all the measurements for the fuel tanks so you can find the exact one that’s gonna fit your application and they weren’t very expensive for a brand new fuel tank.
@@idahofabricator8710 thank you sir for the information and the quick reply. Having the filler neck come out of the fender is very ingenious. Most just take the easy way and have it located in the bed floor near the tail gate thus eliminating the spare tire. Can't wait to see more of your truck. By far the best on you tube! Your craftsmanship and ideas are superb. The delivery is entertaining and the camera work is excellent too. Very respectfully, Robert MASON El Paso, Tx
my question how do you title it ? 49 and under has it vin. number on the frame and if you change the frame the vin. number changes or dont match 1950 and up there are numbers on different parts of the body no one has answered that question
There is no Vin number on the frame of my truck. The Vin number is on the drivers door jam. It’s a blue plate that’s riveted to the drivers door jam on the hinge side. If the plate is missing you can buy OEM style plates and stamp your own numbers and rivet them on the door jam
Idaho Fabricator where your feet are on floor board pass side it is stamped in frame that follows the car 49 and down in the state of Illinois they even cut your floor board out if the suspect don’t match and confiscate the truck
Donny Moose Well that’s crazy Donnie I’m surprised that Illinois DMV doesn’t have some allowance for that, and you can’t be the first person to have to replace the frame
Hi Steve. Did you do a segment on mounting the cab. I find it strange that there is a gap between the floora.d the chassis mount.the floor will colapse. When tightened. I thought of enlarging the hole thru the floor.and adding bishing..what did you do?
Steve. I miss you so damn much. I have so many questions. Thank you Family for reading posting. I watch it over and over. God Bless you all
I keep watching you. There will never be anyone like you. I hope your sons keep the project going. DONT SELL IT !!!
God Bless You Steve. I miss you
@@juanbarturen2726 thank you. The 53 is still in the family and will stay in the family. Eventually we will have the opportunity to finish it and share that process with everyone.
I liked your installation... I did the same except my aim was to eliminate through-bolts going through the wood to hold the box to the frame. I used the same square tubing you used instead of the wood blocks but I welded the steel blocks to the cross-sills instead of the frame. Drilled a square hole in the bottom of the square tubing pieces and a bigger round hole in the cross-sill to accept carriage bolts.
I too use truck mud flaps for all my rubber cushion needs... One trick I've gleaned from you video is to drill the bottom of the frame to clear a socket and attach the front cross-sill to the upper flange of my boxed frame. That will eliminate the protruding nut and bolt that gets in the way of my hoist's rear pads.
Steve . Miss you a lot
But. You are still helping me. I keep watching your videos over and over. GOD BLESS YOU. BYOU
Still love watching Steve’s ideas and it helps. Hope you guys are finishing his truck 🙏🙏
Really really enjoy your content! Perfect amount of detail in your description. (And your camera lady does great work as well!)
Best Chevy/GMC fat fender fab videos on UA-cam. Appreciate you passing along your wisdom.
🙏🙏🙏 I miss your Dad's content..
Thanks for the great tips!! I just recently bought a 49 pick up 5 window. These tips will go a long way.
Awesome video and simple explanation. It was cool showing us your thought process. Thank you.
Nice job, and I like the mud flap idea. I will be using that.
Great Video with some helpful , on the cheap tips. Looking Good.
I studded the bed on my truck, so the carriage bolts did not show through the wood. Nice work.
Thanks for the mudflap tip.
NICE job on the truck! I am in the middle of rebuilding my 1947 Chevy 3/4 ton. I'm not going as FAR as you are, but it is down to every nut, bolt, and rusted washer!
Love the detailed video going to try an make thees for my 53 i am building to set the bed on
You get my thumbs up as I also have a 53 Chevy.
Very helpful.. Same as the 40 chevy truck.
Nice video. Nice work !
U do really nice work! Impressive!
Love your videos learned a lot I’m also building a 53 Chevy 3100 looking for your video on notching frame for rear springs
The reason I couldn’t weld the nuts on is because the bed is held down with carriage bolts in the wood floor of the bed so you have to tighten them from below.
I don't follow ,where does the sub rail fit into all of this ? by the way great work
Thank's for the engineerin' tip. Lookin' to redo the one's on my 50 -5 window soon.
-11b4p 82nd '71-'74 22019
Forgive me, what are the wood boxes for? They didn't come from the factory like that. Why would someone want those blocks of wood? I must be missing something here?
thank was looking for some instruction on mounting the bed , can you show where the cross braces go . One other thing do you have any video on the rear cab mounts and how to shim it.
What's the measurements on the blocks the one u made out of wood ,??
Hey good evening. Just wondering if you could give me some information on how you built your custom crossmember with the driveshaft loop. I really like what you did with it. Where did you get a bent pipe like that? I presume it’s a 2” pipe. Also what wall thickness? How far apart did you space your exhaust cutouts? Do you have a video of making that crossmember? Thanks for your time.
Hey Brad thanks for the question I got the tubing loop from Art Morrison industries the part number is 33330125 it sells for 35 bucks the tubing is 1-7/8 and the crossmember was 2 x 5 with a wall thickness at .188 or 3/16 , the exhaust cut outs are 8 inches from the inside of the frame to the center of the cut out.
@@idahofabricator8710 Awesome! Thanks so much.
Hi Steven. I understand perfectly, about the steel. But for some reason, I haven’t found the sizes of the “wooden blocks”. Can you give them to me? Thanks and have a great day.
Here’s your dimensions Mark, the wood blocks are 1 3/4“ x 2 1/4“ and 2 1/ 8th inches tall and there’s a 1/2 inch hole through the center. Hope that helps Mark.
I'm sorry about steve
Man, I can't tell you how helpful you have been! Quick question, what is the washer with the star shaped hole for??
I’m glad I was able to help. I’m not sure what washer with the star shaped hole you’re talking about, what part of the video did you see that in
@@idahofabricator8710 I'm holding it my hand lol! I should just get your email cuz I feel like I'm gonna need a lot of helping figuring out this body lol
22savageshooter@gmail.com
its for, when u drill through the bed wood carrage bolt.the washer should be counter-sunk even with the bed-wood.
it is offset so that when you install the bed on the frame, the washer wont spin around
Is that bed the one that was on the truck when you pulled it from the field? If replacement panels were used what vendor did you go with thanks
No my original bed was usable somebody had taken 3/16 inch plate steel and stick welded it all around the perimeter for a bed floor and they also welded it to the cross sills underneath that welding severely warped all the panels so I bought a new bed from Mar-k I believe it cost 1300 and that included everything, cross sills new tailgate with hidden hardware and the quality is amazing
Sir
Super information and great videos!
What gas tank did you use? I havent seen any video on that?
Robert, thanks for the question. I got my fuel tank from a company called Tanks Inc. they have all kinds of fuel tanks. I knew the measurements of the frame in the area that I wanted the tank to fit in, I wanted to have the fuel filler coming out of the left rear fender and I wanted it set up for fuel injection, so I chose a tank for a 1941 to 48 Ford. They give you all the measurements for the fuel tanks so you can find the exact one that’s gonna fit your application and they weren’t very expensive for a brand new fuel tank.
@@idahofabricator8710 thank you sir for the information and the quick reply. Having the filler neck come out of the fender is very ingenious. Most just take the easy way and have it located in the bed floor near the tail gate thus eliminating the spare tire. Can't wait to see more of your truck. By far the best on you tube! Your craftsmanship and ideas are superb. The delivery is entertaining and the camera work is excellent too.
Very respectfully,
Robert MASON
El Paso, Tx
Does anyone know the dimensions of the bed to frame bolts
on the shortbed 53?
Any video for how to align the hood, someone
Ow many sills u used
A total of three sills one at the front of the bed one that just bolts to the bed and the third one is one of the mounting sills
love your videos but Invest in a microphone. Very difficult to hear
my question how do you title it ? 49 and under has it vin. number on the frame and if you change the frame the vin. number changes or dont match 1950 and up there are numbers on different parts of the body no one has answered that question
There is no Vin number on the frame of my truck. The Vin number is on the drivers door jam. It’s a blue plate that’s riveted to the drivers door jam on the hinge side. If the plate is missing you can buy OEM style plates and stamp your own numbers and rivet them on the door jam
Idaho Fabricator where your feet are on floor board pass side it is stamped in frame that follows the car 49 and down in the state of Illinois they even cut your floor board out if the suspect don’t match and confiscate the truck
Donny Moose Well that’s crazy Donnie I’m surprised that Illinois DMV doesn’t have some allowance for that, and you can’t be the first person to have to replace the frame
Hi Steve. Did you do a segment on mounting the cab. I find it strange that there is a gap between the floora.d the chassis mount.the floor will colapse. When tightened. I thought of enlarging the hole thru the floor.and adding bishing..what did you do?
Juan send me your email address and I’ll send you some pictures of my cab mounts
@@idahofabricator8710 Hey there. Sorry to bother you so much. I'm not good with computers. I have an E Mail. Jbart3751@gmail. Com.thanks
@@idahofabricator8710 I wish I could have you te t them or something .I tried with this laptop. I couldn't
Jaun I’ll send you some pics of the cab mounts tomorrow
@@idahofabricator8710 ok. Sorry for being such a bother
Im doingmy bed like that it wont beld the metal? Let me knoe
I don’t understand your question could you explain it again for me
Those metal s u put on on the frame to bolt the sills
I made those from 2 1/2 inch 3/16 thick square tubing they are very stout, you shouldn’t have any worries about bending the steel bed mounts.
Ok thanks budy shoot out from Salinas .california