+matt white Wow. He could have fooled me. I totally thought he was a well-versed, well-seasoned qualified mechanic. Did you mean he was not certified in engines?
Schrodingers Box Well, you totally had me fooled. Doesn't mean at all I would listen any less to you or your advice as it seems you are totally experienced and knowledgeable and know exactly what you are talking about. By the way, didn't think I'd ever actually get a response straight from you. I do find your videos quite helpful and clever. Thanks for a direct response. Totally surprised by that. Your Used Car Inspection Tip videos seem to be the first UA-cam video that comes up on Google when I searched "Used Car Inspection", which is how I found your channel. You must be doing something right.
Dathotness4ya Thanks, I actually try to respond to every comment if I can. It's pretty cool you would subscribe after the used car video lol- that was one of my first and I just cringe at the video and audio quality lol!!!
I've been binge watching your channel for the past 2 days and I enjoy watching and learning new mythotical ways to attack a problem. I appreciate that you take the time to show OUR craft in the proper light. I Flippin hate it when I see co-workers call themselves mechanics when,in actuality, they are only Parts Changers. I'll keep watching until you stop makin 'em. Maybe then I'll take the tourch. haha btw, ever figure out what the noise was? I really couldn't pinpoint where it was...audio Keep fighting the 98% here and I'll do the same at work.
timing light won't work. since there's only 3 coils per 2 cylinders. it uses wasted spark system. every 360 degrees. once on the compression stroke and then once on the exhaust stroke. As compared to 720 degrees on a conventional automotive engine. and these motors use a crankshaft position sensor to time the ignition.
@Mike Chainz- Just wanted to say thanks for the comments on my recent videos but especially for being brave enough to be the very first to make a call on the diagnosis on this one and "put yourself out there". You'd be surprised at the haters I have who would simply trash on me for not being able to tell the source of the noise by ear, but of course they would only do this AFTER they were told what the issue was. As of yet it will be a week before I can tear into the engine but I will let you know!! Thanks again Mike.
So happy I found this channel. I was helping a friend a while back and I thought I would do an audio recording of the knocking noise on his old VW bus. I analyzed the audio and the peaks in the waveform (the knock sound) were occuring 37 times over 5,184 seconds, so for frequency I took 37-1=36 occurencies over the period 5,184 = 6,9 ticks/sec and 416 ticks/min. Bus was on idle so I believe the revs therefore were 416*2=832 rpm. This would indicate that every other crank rotation produces a noise, in other words, ONE noise per 4-stroke period. From this info, am I right that it is not possible to rule out if the problem is crank or valve lifter related? Due to the ignition for one said cylinder happens every other crank rotation and also a lifter would happen every other crank due to the cam belt gear ratio of 2:1 (cam shaft rotating half the speed as the crank)
andrew donohue and that will take allot less time then pulling all 4.6. or 8 injectors connectors and then making sure you are keeping track of which connector came off of what cylinder
I've never struggled more when it comes to mechanics than when it comes to diagnostics (computers are a whole nother worldl. I just found this video as I was watching a bunch on engine flush and I just dropped the bottle of engine flush and grabbed a white board. I've never seen it done like this. by far one of the best video styles for diagnosings as it gets. thank you! I'll let you know what it was that cause the sound
99 Malibu, hmm. I'm gonna say it's too end probably timing chain. But I dunno. And yes I known this was probably made after you updated the cause but I am working at an auction and doing inspections and condition report writing. I am not so great with sounds either. These videos have been really helpful in broadening my tactics for discerning different problems. Was it this video that you had got flustered because of all the cars you had. Man do I know how you feel. I got them coming out if my ears some days. They just stack up and keep coming. Thanks again !
Maybe not timing but I'm saying too end I am pretty sure about that. Didn't seem deep enough to be the piston I think (not entirely sure ) that the tone is deeper. I mean it's metal on metal. But it is deeper in tone then the top end noises. I don't know how to explain it I guess. But either way I'm saying too end. And I missed the update or actually solution. Also I think the water in oil is a bit misleading in this case. I don't think the gaskets were leaking I'm gonna say it was condensate perhaps u live near the surf guessing by the hair. Ahhh man just kidding anybody hating on these videos c a promptly go fuck themselves. Thanks for your time and effort please don't flame my response. I am truly trying to become proficient in what I do.
Hi Matt and glad to see that you're back. When I first heard the noise, the valve train came to my mind. As Mike mentioned, I think there's one or more collapsed lifters because the oil pressure can't be maintained inside of the lifters because of the coolant in the oil. As for the coolant/oil mix, I would say that it's the head gasket. Thanks for posting your video Matt!
It's great work , man. Thanks for your important. Actually the video is comprehensive about checking the engine problems when a louder noise is out of it.
I like the posting. I had a car idling in the driveway and the gas pedal went to the floor. Don't know why but, it red lined for 7-9 secs b4 I got out and turned it off. Now I have a loud tapping noise. Three mechanics later, I have 3 different diagnosis's. That's why I am here. You are doing better than I am. Cause you can laugh about it. GOOD LUCK WITHOUT A COMPUTER TO YOU, ME, EVERYBODY. Noises in an engine are a bear. Multiple issues make it even more difficult. Good Video. Thanks.
Wel, well, I did not even check part #2 yet, but....I am saying, it is valve and timing chain related for sure. Chrysler engine, like famous 2.7 V6, has a very weak part, and it is water pump. I bet this engine has similar water pump, turned by timing chain!! They start leaking around 70-80000 miles,...how many miles this car has??And, when water pump start leaking, coolant goes into oilspace, and into valve covers/ heads. Sludge start accumulate, and then valves/ timing chain does not get enough lubrication/oil!!! First sing is that you start loosing coolant??? Was coolant low in this car??? If bottom end is still OK, bearing OK, you can still save this car by changing water pump/ timing chain, and adjust valves!!! Lets see, now I will watch part #2. interesting to see, if I was right =))
I would have to say it is coming from top-end. Common problem I have seen with those engines is that the rockers ripe them self out of the threads. From the video, it sure sounds as that.
mannn let me tell you i love your channel and not only because ALL the information you go over dont matter which issue you trying to troubleshoot i ALWAYS learn something new, my favorite video has been so far about the debate of either oxygen sensor or HC sensor, VERY VERY good videos, its not sometimes even the topics but is how you approach the diagnosis strategy, how you think from start to the end is incredible, anyone can know about many things but knowing how to express your thoughts is a HUGE difference from just knowing the subject. btw on this video to us "listeners" is hard to hear what type of noise that is since over the speakers of the camcorder the noise gets a little bit distorted, with all i did wanted to share with you that noise could be a possibility of a bad timing belt/ chain hydrolic tensioner, i had one of those in the past and it can be easily confused for internal knocking. i am not sure if you raved the engine at all during the troubleshooting but the vehicle i worked on the noise would go away after 2500 RPMs since the tensioner would gain pressure from oil, just a thought but again over the video recorded is hard to hear what a noise could be....but great video Matt, i been watching all your videos little by little and ALWAYS but ALWAYS learning something new!
is it possible to tell us a word about this noise that you can listen in the following videos on youtube : - mon Jts qui couine !!!! by :froget900 - citroen c2 1.4i sifflement côté courroie accessoire Thank you so much from France.
2005 Chevy Silverado HD 2500 has a tick is definitely an internal engine noise. Oil pressure seems to be ok (25-30 cold, or at idle - 40 warm and riding down the road). The tick comes and goes, but it has gotten worse (a bit 'harder' - 'louder'?) and more frequent lately, like almost everyday now. When I hear the noise I usually pull over and turn the engine off for more than 5-7 minutes on the side of the road (ugh!). After I sit for a little bit, normally it cranks with the noise, but after about 10 seconds, it goes away, and I am good for a little bit (sometimes the rest of the day, and sometimes not). When I allow my oil to get a little lower than maximum (1/2 quart low), I can pour marvel oil in it, and the sound will immediately change, and usually go away for a bit. Recently, I started putting a little sea foam in the engine with some success. My next step is to check each cylinder as you have done here, and see if the sound changes...
the flash was more then one flash per . . it's a bottom end problem in my opinion. . I had the 1990 grand-prix SE 3.1 v-6 at around 310,000 km I started hearing that same noise .. ... the 3.1 were known for water pumps and head gasket issues ... antifreeze getting into the oil (bottom) part of the engine, the piston and connecting rod get damaged because of lubricant issue. the head gasket is allowing enough air in to case a compression drop and eventually the rod will go through the lower part of the engine block (Cylinder 3) went on my car
Hi, Schrodingers Box... question.. I just saw this episode and noticed that the wipers where coming on when you where messing with the plugs. I have a simiular problem which my 1996 sebring in which I am driving and everyonce in a while my car stubles and then my wipers come on, also when it warms up on hot days the car will not drive well at all, but will start... now i have replace my disbiter but now it runs worse and stumbles. I relize that this is the year the OBDII came out so not sure what that means and I have been told I need to replace my PCM., other than that it drives great..just when its cold and for short drive.. :P Thanks
Stop the apologies!!! You are generously going through a lot of trouble, slowing your work, oiling up your camera, etc., for the public`s benefit.......public service work out of the goodness of your heart. If anyone criticizes you, tell them to pound salt and I thank you for the help.
I'd rather watch these videos by your average Joe instead of a pro.I'm not a mechanic so I don't always understand some of the terms used. And like in this video you sometimes learn what not to do..and that's always helpful.Not everyone watching these videos are mechanics and if you are a mechanic why would you need to? I say great job keep the vids coming!
Don't forget to check water pump and exhaust manifold gasket. A damaged water pump could produce this noise and the defective exhaust manifold bolts or gasket makes noise like that as well.
Had a crazy engine noise problem myself, sounded like there was a broken crank, or rod banging around when you would crank the engine, but it wouldnt start, had sump off, rocker cover, and pulled the front cover to check timing. Turned out to be the dual mass flywheel , the 2 pieces had almost come apart. (2009 ford transit van 2.2 tdci, rwd.)
Hi I just saw this comment- reminds me of a few years ago a Ford F250 that a neighbor brought to me with rod knock- he was all freaked out that his truck was doomed. It sounded exactly like rod knock- perfect rythym and everything but I did not find any play in the rod bearings using my "screwdriver test". Turns out somehow one of the driveplate-to-torque converter bolts backed out and was striking the torque converter access cover plate. It pays to check simple stuff because otherwise this would have been found in the process of removing the engine!
I don't even need to see the second video having owned 2 of these engines. Dollars to donuts, bad lifter. Works out since the intake manifold gaskets go out on these anyway, so you would have to take it apart either way. Doesn't sound like rod knock to me. The coolant in the oil is probably a second issue that accelerated wear on it. If there's white smoke or a bad compression test, it's probably a head gasket, though I've never seen one blow on one of these if maintained properly.
Valve tappets tapping away. coolant in the oil causes hydro pressure to drop in the hydraulic lash adjuster tappet. if it were a stuck valve or a single valve you would not have the continues noise. the noise would have more time between each noise. If you have a problem with locating noises get a stethoscope if you do not have one they work great and can get you right on top of the noise. I worked on these engines in the past and found that majority of coolant in the oil came from a crack between valves in the head. But also on that note this car may have had signs of overheating but sometimes not, the combustion gases enter into the coolant system and causes cooling system boil over. test for combustion gases in coolant also do cooling system pressure test both easy.
upper lower intake leaks were bad on 3.1s and 3.4s were bad for that. plus the rocker stud holes were bad as well and GM recommends rehelicoiling the threads in the rocker stud holes.
Your videos are very very good , You do not need to remove plug wires to knock out a cylinder , Use your test light to knock out 1 cylinder at a time ," make sure other end of test light is clamped to a good ground " slide the test light up in-between the spark plug wire and boot, "either end of plug wire will work" , this way you do not hurt the plug wire or yourself .
Enjoyed this series. I too am bad at diagnosing engine noises or whether there is an unusual noise. Going to use Blackstone Labs to test my engine oil over the next three oil changes. Seems somewhat scientific/objective.
I just wanted to say thanks for making this video.I'm having issues with engine noise in my car and im very thankful that you took the time to do this and help people.I'm actually kinda upset that my car is screwed up.And now i know where and how to eliminate the steps to try and find out what has happened.
Hi Matt, I have a 2000 chevy malibu that is making the exact same noise as this malibu. It did not start until after I had a head gasket and intake gasket replaced. The check engine light flashes at 30 mph, hesistation, rough idle when warmed up, and random misfire code. A mechanic is saying cylinder one has no combustion and cylinder four has 70 % combustion. What could it be?
@musicala- it's hard to say but doesn't sound good. Initially I was thinking it might be the timing is off between crank and cam, but not if just 1 and 4 show low compression. And if you didn't have camshaft and/or timing chain replaced then this is surely not the issue. I hate to say it but if the mechanic is right about the compressions then the head is going to have to come back off and be inspected. If the same head that was originally on the car was replaced back onto the car I would bet a lot of money that is your problem- the original problem requiring the gasket change just carried over with a new gasket. I have a cylinder head video I am working on as you read this that talks in detail about head gasket replacement to prevent these very issues. Should be out in a couple weeks.
hi very good video and good diagnosing techniques, i really like. i think if u just check vacuum pressure u can find problem right away internal engine problem (mechanical problem) or electrical problem.
You know this actually isn't a bad idea Nasir, I never looked at vacuum gauge readings from a stuck valve personally but I know it's supposed to cause regular drops on the needle. Then again I am not so sure a piston with bad rod bearings wouldn't also do that. It would be a great idea to compare the two types of issues on a gauge and see if there is a pattern that could be used to predict top or bottom issue better. One complication is that often the traditional diagnoses assume only one valve or one rod is bad- when you have multiple frozen lifters or multiple rod knock it gets harder to rely on patterns.
I have a Astra 58 plate only has 35000 miles on it been driving it for 2 weeks it's petrol engine when the car engine gets warm it's sounds like a Diesel engine mechanic say it' needs a new timing chain what will cost £350 what do u think ..?
LOL yeah you are right about the OIL, my engines knocking.. should i change the OIl LOL how dumb can a human get??. Analogy:: I'm having a heart attack so i'll change my blood???
When you get anti-freeze in the oil you lose lubrication properties of the oil! Then bearings begin to go! If the new oil is contaminated anti-freeze must be pouring in! Might be too late to save this engine? James
How do you do that procedure with coil packs tho ? GM 2.2L uses those, no plug wires. I have a ticking problem with my 2.2L Saturn L200 I can't locate with a screw driver or stethoscope.
Hi I watch your videos a lot, im wondering if you can help me.. I see you're a very trusted mechanic and you do a proper job of diagnosis and fixing. I have a 1.9L common rail diesel 4 cylinder engine and it's making a light tapping noise when revving. I believe it's the injector nailing as it's only between certain RPM. ( 2700-2900) and stops exactly after this. If I unplugged no 2 injector the noise goes away. It only taps during acceleration and stops as soon as you let off throttle but comes back with any minute amount of pedal pressed. I.e only under injectable conditions. Which leads me to believe it is the injector. I have two questions if you could kindly help I would really appreciate it and it would answer a lot for me as I can't find an answer to these anywhere. 1 would a tappet or valve train noise be constant or could it clear up after certain rpm? Could it mean I have piston damage and the relieved combustion in that cylinder quietens the noise? I have driven 3000 miles under these conditions and nothing has changed or worsened, it still tapps away how it does. Thanks in advance
I am a qualified mechanic been doing this for about 20 years now but I'm always learning something new and seeing new problems. I am working on a 2001 Buick rendezvous engine has a ticking noise like this, and overheating problem due to leaks, I did a compression test 4 cylinders are at 150psi one at 155psi and the #1 cylinder is at 35psi and that cylinder is pushing oil out the exhaust I pressurized that cylinder with air compressor with valves closed and did not hear it coming into the crankcase intake or exhaust it seemed to not leak anywhere so I am puzzled as to what is going on I am in the process of buying a micro boar scope to look inside the cylinder to see what it looks like inside. I was totally expecting pressurizing the cylinder would have air coming out of the crankcase indicating scored cylinder or bad piston rings but I had no air leaking anywhere. Usually this test putting 160psi to a sealed cylinder will show rings, bad valves, or cracked head or head gasket out. Any ideas on what to try next?
push rod backed out of the head aluminum head? Screw in the inserts back out eventually that's pushrod notice if you check all the Rockers you'll find one of them was some play in it
I have an 03 Ford escape n that's the exact same sound but when I step on the gas it gets louder n if I let it go then it goes back to the original knocking noise even when parked. I have completely change the spark plug..the valves the gasket which the noise didn't go away n now they are telling me to replace the engine!! someone please help me if their are other alternatives?
If there is a coolant in oil You should check level of that coolant because running engine without coolant is not a good idea :) High oil pressure is normal if the oil is cold and have high viscosity. By the way - great video. You have great distance to yourself. Take care!
I have 1993 Buick century and I replaced the fuel pump and filter runs but wont idle running ruff won't maintain rpm and is it possible to put an inline electric pump in and get the 45 psi of pressure to make it run the new replaced pump is only putting out 10 psi
I believe I'm missing something obvious, but what are you looking for when you pull out the spark plugs while it's running? Is it to listen for the sound being less because you stopped a cylinder that had the valve problem? Or would it rule out a bottom issue as that rod can't knock without a good power stroke?
I thought about it and my questions are the answers. If fuel injectors were easy to disconnect on one side and spark plugs are necessary to check on the other side, I'd just switch tactics on one side versus the other. The results would be close enough to being the same. ...but you want a controlled experiment, huh? :)
by the way, these engines suck, due to the engine coolant being drained into the engine block from the head (I had this EXACT same engine 3800 series II, and it cost me LOTS of money, and the engine still died) absolutely garbageengine, in my experience, always buying a 4 cylinder car here on out anyway, please comment :)
+newchan02 There is a known issue on the 1999-2004 3100 and 3400's where the intake manifold gasket leaked on the V6 models on the bank 2 rear corner causing exactly the issue you describe. There are two TSB's on it.
And the problem was???????/ Sorry I have not found it and do not have much time to browse all the comments. Can you tell, probably again, what the problem was? Thanks!
I found the best way to avoid fixing engines is to avoid GMC products, i have not had ANY serious engine problems in 30 years since i quite GMC previous to that ... many.....your Vids are great!! shows that anybody can learn automotive diagnostics , it really isn't rocket science keep it up..
Schrodingers Box Sorry i should explain, MY family own a very large construction company we buy 5 or 6 trucks per year and have 35 in service we have gone exclusively with 2500 Dodge platform products 5.7's hemi's and cummins we tried the GMC thing, the engines were Junk no torqued gas hogs, 4 blown motors while Hauling loads, (gas engines) and the allison transmissions was the true Disaster for all of them 50% of trucks got new transmissions within 50,000 miles , all SOLD immediately afterwards.. and Ford with its endless frozen-in- the block spark plugs extractions 2 or 3 on every vehicle can't sell them or give away... and other decades long engine issues carried by Ford Triton engines, JUNK no longer made.. as well as 5 late 90's and early 2000's dead powerstrokes engines 100,000 miles on them, rebuilt and sold immediately. been there done that.. lol never again!! LOL!! like i said we have gone with 2500 Dodge platform products 5.7's hemi's and cummins its night and day unquestionable difference in reliability..... so much that we fired our in house Trucks maintenance mechanic LOL (sleeping at the shop)... he's now a crane operator , he does carry around a small box of engine coils though...i will say that the NEW GMC's line are completely new trucks... why did it take them so long to finally build heaVy duty truck.. Screw ford still junk
My layman's explanation (plenty of in depth articles on the web): Detonation is unspent fuel/gases detonating within the cylinder AFTER normal combustion due to excessive heat/pressure. Detonation is not a controlled burn and has concussive force (sharp pressure spike). This force is what creates the ping/ring sound as the block resonates. This vibration has a specific frequency around 6000hz which knock sensors are tuned to pick up. Engines with higher HP per in3 are more susceptible to damage from detonation. Detonation can cause various types of damage: pitted piston crown, broken ring lands, scuffed piston skirts, fractured valves and plug ceramics, overheating, etc. Detonation and an overheating engine tend to go hand in hand. Ignition has a sweet spot in relation to degrees from TDC for all gasoline engines. If the fuel in a cylinder is ignited prior to the intended point (as in around 180 degrees before), you have pre-ignition. It is spontaneous combustion PRIOR to ignition. Typically occurs near the beginning of the compression stroke due to a hot element (plug, carbon ember, etc) which acts like a glow plug. There is no high pressure spike but rather excessively high pressure over long periods as expanding gases are compressed via the piston stroke. There is no noise associated with pre-ignition to alert you so it is usually not identified until after it causes catastrophic damage to the engine. Such damage will happen very rapidly as heat builds up, an engine will only survive a few seconds under pre-ignition conditions. Typical symptom is a hole melted through the piston since it is the weakest part with the least ability to dissipate heat, but melted plug electrodes and ceramics are also possible. A plug can actually begin to melt before pre-ignition and then become the source pre-ignition. So there is no such thing as pre-detonation. Common confusion.
if is nocking happing when the engine is cold my understanding GM build it so when is cold piston is extract and this made it less fraction and when come to normal tep which around 180 the noise go way .sorry aboud my spelling.
Well i admire you for admitting your not good at finding these noises, i don't think anyone is, you do get a rough idea of what it is top or bottom etc..comes a time where you have to pull the whole thing to bits ad look at it...i have watched quite a lot of your videos on here, pretty good, i was a motor engineer for 45 years from Fred in UK
+Tom Smith I read an article years ago when I was still an armchair mechanic from a guy on how to diagnose engine noise. He said "you should not only be able to tell by ear whether the noise is top or bottom but also WHICH CYLINDER is causing the noise. I was in awe at what skill that must require! But now that have experienced at least 2 dozen engine knocks, I realize that guy was 100% full of BS and yet another hack giving advice.
+Schrodingers Box my Dad told me that also. I have a Dodge Charger 2012 SE and I figured out a noise on the engine, like lock, lock, lock, lock. When I called him to let him know that, because he is in New York and I'm in Florida, he told me that too, "I can not only be able to tell by ear whether the noise is top or bottom."
Hey man! I wonder if you could find a way to record the engine noise in sync with cylinder firing, you know with data spiking on a graph that you can look at? That might be a better than watching the timing light and listening. Sounds like its in the top end man. Will be interesting to see.
+ILTSYC Yes someone else brought that up too- I think it's a brilliant idea! Wish I had thought of that lol! I think next time I get a rod knock or lifter noise I will try that!!
+Schrodingers Box The only reason I thought of it was because I saw you do the amps test on the starter to measure compression after getting a reference manual compression test on one cyclinder with the Vantage Pro. Maybe you have the stuff already to do it? My daugher's Focus is making a simular noise and unfortunately I just found a battered #4 spark plug. I almost couldn't get it out. Ford Focus are notorious for dropping valve seats.
if the oil pressure light goes out can it be assumed that you have enough oil pressure to not cause a noise. so then traditional methods of isolating if it's top or bottom and is disabling cylinders and the timing light which doesn't really seam that conclusive. in the past I have been able to hear a slight noise difference disabling cylinders. it'd be nice to have a test more concrete
yeah that "cylinder drop test" leaves a lot to be a desired. one of the things many proponents of that hack method forget is it is useless if there is knock on more than one bearing. To answer your question, the answer is yes- provided the pressure light is working properly and reflective of the actual pressure.
Schrodingers Box Right that makes a lot of sense if there's two bearings failed. Im dealing with an engine noise complaint. looking for a test or tests to point in a direction. minus oh im the more experienced tech in the shop oh I heard it sounds like x start tearing apart the engine scavenger hunt. it kind of sounds like the car in the video. not a bearing knock which is very distinct. This is why I like electrical dig. 12 volts here, not here done. Verified tests u can be confident in.
I like that you have documented steps to follow. Also that you take necessary precautions based on unforseen caveats. BTW, is having windshield wipers engaged necessary for this procedure? Lol
Hmm, idk but it sounds like one of those engines that runs free after a timing belt breaks. Once the belt is replaced, rods and pushers can be bent and hit the head and make this nose.
i think what you are trying to describe is an interference engine. Go ahead and look up what this is and then you will probably want to come back and edit this comment so it doesn't sound so funny.
hi i like your videos but you know pulling sparkplug wires off is a bad idea. because if you dont get shocked the spark has to go somwhere and its going back to the computers transistor to damage the transistor and then you have damaged that component if.... it dont shocks you or jumps to ground somwhere..... ground out spark wires propperly for things like this My wilde guess its the hydraulic lifters not being lubed with water oil mix , but only a guess noises on video diagnostic is almost not possibile in my opinion...
You are exactly correct inTrade100. And thats one of the reasons I initially wanted to pull the fuel injector connectors instead. In retrospect, a better idea would have been to use a ground to give the spark a path as you indicated but after getting shocked I didn't think too clearly and just wanted to get it over with lol!
+Schrodingers Box 9.1.16. You only need to pull 3 of the 6 plug wires.......because this is a waste spark ignition. Two cylinders are disabled by pulling just 1 plug wire. Good video series. 👍🏽👀
Steven Sapyak That makes no sense. On a waste spark, there is a separate plug for EACH cylinder. It is just that spark is also sent to the cylinder not at TDC that is shared on the coil. Unpluging just one wire from the coil only disables that cylinder.
+Schrodingers Box 9.2.16. Yes each cylinder has a spark plug, but there are only three coils....on a 3100/3400 V6 ...pull a plug wire off and the corresponding plug on that coil will not fire. (1-4 5-2. 6-3). The high voltage secondary circuit is open.
Thanks for the reply Jimmy but it is definitely not timing belt. It is either Rod knock or valvetrain noise. Guess again.... follow up video with the answer coming soon!
Wow you're not the sharpest knife in the drawer, are you? The point- quite lucidly stated several times I might add, was to show HOW you would diagnose an engine noise and as any complete tutorial worth its salt would do, it walks you through every possible permutation of etiologies that you might encounter. How, how did you not follow that- never mind, I already answered that.
Red Doe Running Ah yes I forgot about that- there was indeed a worn plug wire in this video wasn't there! Yep- plug wire arcing to the valve cover would definitely cause misfire. Good call. Anyway I think that other moron went back to Scotty's channel where he belongs.
Red Doe Running I know the one... actually most automotive channels by far take advantage of the fact that most people know nothing at all about cars but think they do. When a "professional" technician creating a channel is actually just as much of a parts changing hack as the audience, the growth, ironically, will be stupendous!!
+russwelday DING DING-- RUSS IS RIGHT. Coolant in oil, run it long enuff and cam will seize and break. I have the same engine that had the intake gasket common problem. By the time my son let me know what was going on figured what the heck-so changed to correct gasket-ran few minutes then changed oil again- started but with annoying tick in top end. Noticed oil light on so shut off. Tried to turn crankshaft but was very hard at certain points--Took top off -cam shaft piece close to pass side would turn but the other end was seized.
After I changed the fuel injectors the car started making a pretty loud fast ticking sound. If you git the gas it goes a way for a second then comes back, any idea?
+spiffcats Actually I take that back- there is another possibility I may have overlooked. What was data you got that indicated to you that you needed to change the injectors in the first place? That might be a clue!
Schrodingers Box It will run like new for 15 minutes, then suddenly start misfiring and surging. Once it starts doing that its almost impossible to drive. When I took the intake plenum off there was pools of gas, and gas in the vacuum lines.
spiffcats Ok again- what was the evidence the INJECTORS caused this? This is where I would start. What was the injector pulse average on each bank? What was the static and idle fuel Short and long term fuel trim? What was the O2 sensor reading idle vs WOT? I need to know how you determined the injectors (all of them??) were the problem. That is the clue to the engine noise bro.
Schrodingers Box I drove it again today, and the noise is gone. I also noticed cylinder 6 wasnt firing, so I replaced that spark plug (just replaced it 2-3 days ago, must have been defective), and it runs much better. It has been driven for a few hours in the city, no problems, going to take it to the highway and see if it surges at all. I only have an obd tool that makes the check engine light flash, so I dont know any important data. I figured some part of the fuel injector unit was leaking because there was gas in the vacuum lines. So, I replaced the whole thing as a unit.
The tensioner looked in tact and the chain seemed pretty tight but there was maybe a quarter inch play on the right side, I haven't turned the crank yet to line the timing I will post another video of the timing chain set
you may not be a qualified mechanic, but you know your stuff and make great vids. Ignore any thumbs down and neg comments, your work is great..
+matt white Wow. He could have fooled me. I totally thought he was a well-versed, well-seasoned qualified mechanic. Did you mean he was not certified in engines?
I'm not certified in anything. I'm a DIY.
Schrodingers Box Well, you totally had me fooled. Doesn't mean at all I would listen any less to you or your advice as it seems you are totally experienced and knowledgeable and know exactly what you are talking about. By the way, didn't think I'd ever actually get a response straight from you. I do find your videos quite helpful and clever. Thanks for a direct response. Totally surprised by that. Your Used Car Inspection Tip videos seem to be the first UA-cam video that comes up on Google when I searched "Used Car Inspection", which is how I found your channel. You must be doing something right.
Dathotness4ya Thanks, I actually try to respond to every comment if I can.
It's pretty cool you would subscribe after the used car video lol- that was one of my first and I just cringe at the video and audio quality lol!!!
Thumbs down are most likely by professional mechanics having hissy fits for him giving away this knowledge for nothing. ;) :)
Wish I had a mechanic like this in my town. They are all rip-offs
I've been binge watching your channel for the past 2 days and I enjoy watching and learning new mythotical ways to attack a problem. I appreciate that you take the time to show OUR craft in the proper light. I Flippin hate it when I see co-workers call themselves mechanics when,in actuality, they are only Parts Changers.
I'll keep watching until you stop makin 'em. Maybe then I'll take the tourch. haha btw, ever figure out what the noise was? I really couldn't pinpoint where it was...audio
Keep fighting the 98% here and I'll do the same at work.
timing light won't work. since there's only 3 coils per 2 cylinders. it uses wasted spark system. every 360 degrees. once on the compression stroke and then once on the exhaust stroke. As compared to 720 degrees on a conventional automotive engine. and these motors use a crankshaft position sensor to time the ignition.
+Eckehardt krieger Dang I didn't even think of that, omg I feel dumb lol! Great point bro!! You're the only one in like 2 years to notice that!!!
very informative video .....
it's a collapsed lifter
@Mike Chainz- Just wanted to say thanks for the comments on my recent videos but especially for being brave enough to be the very first to make a call on the diagnosis on this one and "put yourself out there". You'd be surprised at the haters I have who would simply trash on me for not being able to tell the source of the noise by ear, but of course they would only do this AFTER they were told what the issue was. As of yet it will be a week before I can tear into the engine but I will let you know!! Thanks again Mike.
My supreme is making a very similar noise, also coming from the right side of the engine
Could the problems lie in the spark plu wiring? I carry on watching till the end.
So happy I found this channel. I was helping a friend a while back and I thought I would do an audio recording of the knocking noise on his old VW bus. I analyzed the audio and the peaks in the waveform (the knock sound) were occuring 37 times over 5,184 seconds, so for frequency I took 37-1=36 occurencies over the period 5,184 = 6,9 ticks/sec and 416 ticks/min.
Bus was on idle so I believe the revs therefore were 416*2=832 rpm. This would indicate that every other crank rotation produces a noise, in other words, ONE noise per 4-stroke period. From this info, am I right that it is not possible to rule out if the problem is crank or valve lifter related? Due to the ignition for one said cylinder happens every other crank rotation and also a lifter would happen every other crank due to the cam belt gear ratio of 2:1 (cam shaft rotating half the speed as the crank)
My ocd is kicking in, Matt, turn the wipers off, PLEASE!!
if you ever want to crank an engine and disable the fuel injectors pull the fuel injector fuse OR pull the fuel pump relay. quick and easy
andrew donohue and that will take allot less time then pulling all 4.6. or 8 injectors connectors and then making sure you are keeping track of which connector came off of what cylinder
"Too late" I loled....after it wasnt a bad injury. Good methods and procedures man. Stay gold.
Lifters...
I've never struggled more when it comes to mechanics than when it comes to diagnostics (computers are a whole nother worldl. I just found this video as I was watching a bunch on engine flush and I just dropped the bottle of engine flush and grabbed a white board. I've never seen it done like this. by far one of the best video styles for diagnosings as it gets. thank you! I'll let you know what it was that cause the sound
99 Malibu, hmm. I'm gonna say it's too end probably timing chain. But I dunno. And yes I known this was probably made after you updated the cause but I am working at an auction and doing inspections and condition report writing. I am not so great with sounds either. These videos have been really helpful in broadening my tactics for discerning different problems. Was it this video that you had got flustered because of all the cars you had. Man do I know how you feel. I got them coming out if my ears some days. They just stack up and keep coming. Thanks again !
Maybe not timing but I'm saying too end I am pretty sure about that. Didn't seem deep enough to be the piston I think (not entirely sure ) that the tone is deeper. I mean it's metal on metal. But it is deeper in tone then the top end noises. I don't know how to explain it I guess. But either way I'm saying too end. And I missed the update or actually solution. Also I think the water in oil is a bit misleading in this case. I don't think the gaskets were leaking I'm gonna say it was condensate perhaps u live near the surf guessing by the hair. Ahhh man just kidding anybody hating on these videos c a promptly go fuck themselves. Thanks for your time and effort please don't flame my response. I am truly trying to become proficient in what I do.
tip when removing plug wires use a test light that is grounded and the spark with pass through the test light and not you lol
Hi Matt and glad to see that you're back. When I first heard the noise, the valve train came to my mind. As Mike mentioned, I think there's one or more collapsed lifters because the oil pressure can't be maintained inside of the lifters because of the coolant in the oil. As for the coolant/oil mix, I would say that it's the head gasket. Thanks for posting your video Matt!
That style spark/coil setup always shocks somebody
Well I am in agreement with the rest with a series of bad lifters. Well done Thanks.
It's great work , man. Thanks for your important. Actually the video is comprehensive about checking the engine problems when a louder noise is out of it.
**Thanks for your important tips**
Sometimes a Stethoscope will help pinpoint the noise
I like the posting. I had a car idling in the driveway and the gas pedal went to the floor. Don't know why but, it red lined for 7-9 secs b4 I got out and turned it off. Now I have a loud tapping noise. Three mechanics later, I have 3 different diagnosis's. That's why I am here. You are doing better than I am. Cause you can laugh about it. GOOD LUCK WITHOUT A COMPUTER TO YOU, ME, EVERYBODY. Noises in an engine are a bear. Multiple issues make it even more difficult. Good Video. Thanks.
sounds like lifter noise because it's a rattle . a rod noise would be more of a slower knock...
You are correct Vova. A rod knock will have a higher frequency, not a rod knock.
Wel, well, I did not even check part #2 yet, but....I am saying, it is valve and timing chain related for sure. Chrysler engine, like famous 2.7 V6, has a very weak part, and it is water pump. I bet this engine has similar water pump, turned by timing chain!! They start leaking around 70-80000 miles,...how many miles this car has??And, when water pump start leaking, coolant goes into oilspace, and into valve covers/ heads. Sludge start accumulate, and then valves/ timing chain does not get enough lubrication/oil!!! First sing is that you start loosing coolant??? Was coolant low in this car??? If bottom end is still OK, bearing OK, you can still save this car by changing water pump/ timing chain, and adjust valves!!! Lets see, now I will watch part #2. interesting to see, if I was right =))
I would have to say it is coming from top-end. Common problem I have seen with those engines is that the rockers ripe them self out of the threads. From the video, it sure sounds as that.
Never seen a lifter go bad in those engines before, but well done and finding and fixing
mannn let me tell you i love your channel and not only because ALL the information you go over dont matter which issue you trying to troubleshoot i ALWAYS learn something new, my favorite video has been so far about the debate of either oxygen sensor or HC sensor, VERY VERY good videos, its not sometimes even the topics but is how you approach the diagnosis strategy, how you think from start to the end is incredible, anyone can know about many things but knowing how to express your thoughts is a HUGE difference from just knowing the subject. btw on this video to us "listeners" is hard to hear what type of noise that is since over the speakers of the camcorder the noise gets a little bit distorted, with all i did wanted to share with you that noise could be a possibility of a bad timing belt/ chain hydrolic tensioner, i had one of those in the past and it can be easily confused for internal knocking. i am not sure if you raved the engine at all during the troubleshooting but the vehicle i worked on the noise would go away after 2500 RPMs since the tensioner would gain pressure from oil, just a thought but again over the video recorded is hard to hear what a noise could be....but great video Matt, i been watching all your videos little by little and ALWAYS but ALWAYS learning something new!
is it possible to tell us a word about this noise that you can listen in the following videos on youtube :
- mon Jts qui couine !!!! by :froget900
- citroen c2 1.4i sifflement côté courroie accessoire
Thank you so much from France.
2005 Chevy Silverado HD 2500 has a tick is definitely an internal engine noise. Oil pressure seems to be ok (25-30 cold, or at idle - 40 warm and riding down the road). The tick comes and goes, but it has gotten worse (a bit 'harder' - 'louder'?) and more frequent lately, like almost everyday now. When I hear the noise I usually pull over and turn the engine off for more than 5-7 minutes on the side of the road (ugh!). After I sit for a little bit, normally it cranks with the noise, but after about 10 seconds, it goes away, and I am good for a little bit (sometimes the rest of the day, and sometimes not). When I allow my oil to get a little lower than maximum (1/2 quart low), I can pour marvel oil in it, and the sound will immediately change, and usually go away for a bit. Recently, I started putting a little sea foam in the engine with some success. My next step is to check each cylinder as you have done here, and see if the sound changes...
the flash was more then one flash per . . it's a bottom end problem in my opinion. . I had the 1990 grand-prix SE 3.1 v-6 at around 310,000 km I started hearing that same noise .. ... the 3.1 were known for water pumps and head gasket issues ... antifreeze getting into the oil (bottom) part of the engine, the piston and connecting rod get damaged because of lubricant issue. the head gasket is allowing enough air in to case a compression drop and eventually the rod will go through the lower part of the engine block (Cylinder 3) went on my car
Hi, Schrodingers Box... question.. I just saw this episode and noticed that the wipers where coming on when you where messing with the plugs. I have a simiular problem which my 1996 sebring in which I am driving and everyonce in a while my car stubles and then my wipers come on, also when it warms up on hot days the car will not drive well at all, but will start... now i have replace my disbiter but now it runs worse and stumbles. I relize that this is the year the OBDII came out so not sure what that means and I have been told I need to replace my PCM., other than that it drives great..just when its cold and for short drive.. :P Thanks
very informative video .keep it. thank u.
Stop the apologies!!! You are generously going through a lot of trouble, slowing your work, oiling up your camera, etc., for the public`s benefit.......public service work out of the goodness of your heart. If anyone criticizes you, tell them to pound salt and I thank you for the help.
hi!can you check what kind of noise it is ( sendvid.com/jijs1yt1 )...i will really appreciate your help
I'd rather watch these videos by your average Joe instead of a pro.I'm not a mechanic so I don't always understand some of the terms used. And like in this video you sometimes learn what not to do..and that's always helpful.Not everyone watching these videos are mechanics and if you are a mechanic why would you need to? I say great job keep the vids coming!
Don't forget to check water pump and exhaust manifold gasket. A damaged water pump could produce this noise and the defective exhaust manifold bolts or gasket makes noise like that as well.
Had a crazy engine noise problem myself, sounded like there was a broken crank, or rod banging around when you would crank the engine, but it wouldnt start, had sump off, rocker cover, and pulled the front cover to check timing. Turned out to be the dual mass flywheel , the 2 pieces had almost come apart. (2009 ford transit van 2.2 tdci, rwd.)
Hi I just saw this comment- reminds me of a few years ago a Ford F250 that a neighbor brought to me with rod knock- he was all freaked out that his truck was doomed. It sounded exactly like rod knock- perfect rythym and everything but I did not find any play in the rod bearings using my "screwdriver test". Turns out somehow one of the driveplate-to-torque converter bolts backed out and was striking the torque converter access cover plate. It pays to check simple stuff because otherwise this would have been found in the process of removing the engine!
Schrodingers Box Phew! That saved a lot of work!
I don't even need to see the second video having owned 2 of these engines. Dollars to donuts, bad lifter. Works out since the intake manifold gaskets go out on these anyway, so you would have to take it apart either way. Doesn't sound like rod knock to me. The coolant in the oil is probably a second issue that accelerated wear on it. If there's white smoke or a bad compression test, it's probably a head gasket, though I've never seen one blow on one of these if maintained properly.
Valve tappets tapping away. coolant in the oil causes hydro pressure to drop in the hydraulic lash adjuster tappet. if it were a stuck valve or a single valve you would not have the continues noise. the noise would have more time between each noise. If you have a problem with locating noises get a stethoscope if you do not have one they work great and can get you right on top of the noise. I worked on these engines in the past and found that majority of coolant in the oil came from a crack between valves in the head. But also on that note this car may have had signs of overheating but sometimes not, the combustion gases enter into the coolant system and causes cooling system boil over. test for combustion gases in coolant also do cooling system pressure test both easy.
upper lower intake leaks were bad on 3.1s and 3.4s were bad for that. plus the rocker stud holes were bad as well and GM recommends rehelicoiling the threads in the rocker stud holes.
Your videos are very very good , You do not need to remove plug wires to knock out a cylinder , Use your test light to knock out 1 cylinder at a time ," make sure other end of test light is clamped to a good ground " slide the test light up in-between the spark plug wire and boot, "either end of plug wire will work" , this way you do not hurt the plug wire or yourself .
Lifters, you need to clean the lifters. With a solvent of some source, like gasoline, for example.
I need mechanical help . When I turn on the vehicle it makes a talking noise from the engine
Maybe the radio is on lol
Enjoyed this series. I too am bad at diagnosing engine noises or whether there is an unusual noise. Going to use Blackstone Labs to test my engine oil over the next three oil changes. Seems somewhat scientific/objective.
sounds like a loose rocker arm, also might be bad lifting rod. Rod knock "deeper", "heavier".
Sounds like loose valves and possibly piston slap!
I just wanted to say thanks for making this video.I'm having issues with engine noise in my car and im very thankful that you took the time to do this and help people.I'm actually kinda upset that my car is screwed up.And now i know where and how to eliminate the steps to try and find out what has happened.
I used a testlight with a long metal probe when pulling wires while the car is on
Valve ticking noise and I'm no mechanic, but I know the sound of those tickers.
Oh I have not watched your next video for what you found but I am going there now. I am curious
Hi Matt, I have a 2000 chevy malibu that is making the exact same noise as this malibu. It did not start until after I had a head gasket and intake gasket replaced. The check engine light flashes at 30 mph, hesistation, rough idle when warmed up, and random misfire code. A mechanic is saying cylinder one has no combustion and cylinder four has 70 % combustion. What could it be?
@musicala- it's hard to say but doesn't sound good. Initially I was thinking it might be the timing is off between crank and cam, but not if just 1 and 4 show low compression. And if you didn't have camshaft and/or timing chain replaced then this is surely not the issue. I hate to say it but if the mechanic is right about the compressions then the head is going to have to come back off and be inspected. If the same head that was originally on the car was replaced back onto the car I would bet a lot of money that is your problem- the original problem requiring the gasket change just carried over with a new gasket. I have a cylinder head video I am working on as you read this that talks in detail about head gasket replacement to prevent these very issues. Should be out in a couple weeks.
camshaft bearing are worn out i know that sound. mine had split on me(locked) up seized. All becuz of long period leaking coolant
hi
very good video and good diagnosing techniques, i really like. i think if u just check vacuum pressure u can find problem right away internal engine problem (mechanical problem) or electrical problem.
You know this actually isn't a bad idea Nasir, I never looked at vacuum gauge readings from a stuck valve personally but I know it's supposed to cause regular drops on the needle. Then again I am not so sure a piston with bad rod bearings wouldn't also do that. It would be a great idea to compare the two types of issues on a gauge and see if there is a pattern that could be used to predict top or bottom issue better. One complication is that often the traditional diagnoses assume only one valve or one rod is bad- when you have multiple frozen lifters or multiple rod knock it gets harder to rely on patterns.
I have a Astra 58 plate only has 35000 miles on it been driving it for 2 weeks it's petrol engine when the car engine gets warm it's sounds like a Diesel engine mechanic say it' needs a new timing chain what will cost £350 what do u think ..?
I think I would measure the timing chain slack
LOL yeah you are right about the OIL, my engines knocking.. should i change the OIl LOL how dumb can a human get??. Analogy:: I'm having a heart attack so i'll change my blood???
good analogy!
When you get anti-freeze in the oil you lose lubrication properties of the oil! Then bearings begin to go! If the new oil is contaminated anti-freeze must be pouring in! Might be too late to save this engine? James
How do you do that procedure with coil packs tho ? GM 2.2L uses those, no plug wires. I have a ticking problem with my 2.2L Saturn L200 I can't locate with a screw driver or stethoscope.
+Chas S Normally with coil packs I just test by grounding the control wire for each individual coil within the pack one at a time.
Hi I watch your videos a lot, im wondering if you can help me.. I see you're a very trusted mechanic and you do a proper job of diagnosis and fixing. I have a 1.9L common rail diesel 4 cylinder engine and it's making a light tapping noise when revving. I believe it's the injector nailing as it's only between certain RPM. ( 2700-2900) and stops exactly after this.
If I unplugged no 2 injector the noise goes away. It only taps during acceleration and stops as soon as you let off throttle but comes back with any minute amount of pedal pressed. I.e only under injectable conditions. Which leads me to believe it is the injector.
I have two questions if you could kindly help I would really appreciate it and it would answer a lot for me as I can't find an answer to these anywhere.
1 would a tappet or valve train noise be constant or could it clear up after certain rpm?
Could it mean I have piston damage and the relieved combustion in that cylinder quietens the noise?
I have driven 3000 miles under these conditions and nothing has changed or worsened, it still tapps away how it does.
Thanks in advance
What happened when you did the procedures shown in the video to differentiate top or bottom end?
I am a qualified mechanic been doing this for about 20 years now but I'm always learning something new and seeing new problems. I am working on a 2001 Buick rendezvous engine has a ticking noise like this, and overheating problem due to leaks, I did a compression test 4 cylinders are at 150psi one at 155psi and the #1 cylinder is at 35psi and that cylinder is pushing oil out the exhaust I pressurized that cylinder with air compressor with valves closed and did not hear it coming into the crankcase intake or exhaust it seemed to not leak anywhere so I am puzzled as to what is going on I am in the process of buying a micro boar scope to look inside the cylinder to see what it looks like inside. I was totally expecting pressurizing the cylinder would have air coming out of the crankcase indicating scored cylinder or bad piston rings but I had no air leaking anywhere. Usually this test putting 160psi to a sealed cylinder will show rings, bad valves, or cracked head or head gasket out. Any ideas on what to try next?
Sure lounds loike a worn or broken ring to me. Try the leakdown and detecting pressure at the PCV valve perhaps.
push rod backed out of the head aluminum head? Screw in the inserts back out eventually that's pushrod notice if you check all the Rockers you'll find one of them was some play in it
+mikewrightify What you are saying makes no sense whatsoever
Bad plug wire, and blown head gasket?
I have an 03 Ford escape n that's the exact same sound but when I step on the gas it gets louder n if I let it go then it goes back to the original knocking noise even when parked. I have completely change the spark plug..the valves the gasket which the noise didn't go away n now they are telling me to replace the engine!! someone please help me if their are other alternatives?
Hold on. Slow down. Matt (Schrodingers Box) has coolant in the oil. Do you?
If there is a coolant in oil You should check level of that coolant because running engine without coolant is not a good idea :) High oil pressure is normal if the oil is cold and have high viscosity. By the way - great video. You have great distance to yourself. Take care!
If there is coolant in the oil, running the engine period is a bad idea.
These engines are known for stripped threads on the rockers.
Thanks for yr guidance, jp from Australia
I have 1993 Buick century and I replaced the fuel pump and filter runs but wont idle running ruff won't maintain rpm and is it possible to put an inline electric pump in and get the 45 psi of pressure to make it run the new replaced pump is only putting out 10 psi
Sounds like you have a voltage drop problem. Test voltage drop- you never needed a new pump and filter obviously.
I believe I'm missing something obvious, but what are you looking for when you pull out the spark plugs while it's running? Is it to listen for the sound being less because you stopped a cylinder that had the valve problem?
Or would it rule out a bottom issue as that rod can't knock without a good power stroke?
Loved the ending comments about how meaningful it is for people to diagnose it if you already have versus here where you haven't said it yet. :)
I thought about it and my questions are the answers.
If fuel injectors were easy to disconnect on one side and spark plugs are necessary to check on the other side, I'd just switch tactics on one side versus the other. The results would be close enough to being the same.
...but you want a controlled experiment, huh? :)
Nice, clean engine. Too bad it sound like a box of rocks...
Actually i always powerwash an engine before doing major work. Trust me, this engine looked worse than it sounded when I got it!
do oil pressure test. lpumb in a guage.
my dodge van knocks same i cant find problem so im gonna pull oil pan. its a 3.0 i hate it. your hearing is fine.ur a good fixer.
Don't pull the pan- instead see my video "diagnosing engine knock using a screwdriver". MUCH simpler!
i have a diagonstic you need a ear test mate ha ha ha
use a piece of garden hose as a stethoscope
by the way, these engines suck, due to the engine coolant being drained into the engine block from the head (I had this EXACT same engine 3800 series II, and it cost me LOTS of money, and the engine still died) absolutely garbageengine, in my experience, always buying a 4 cylinder car here on out anyway, please comment :)
+newchan02 There is a known issue on the 1999-2004 3100 and 3400's where the intake manifold gasket leaked on the V6 models on the bank 2 rear corner causing exactly the issue you describe. There are two TSB's on it.
+newchan02 the 3800 is one of the best engines GM has ever built i will agree the 3.1 and 3.4 are not that good but the 3800 is a awesome engine
999 likes!!!
Sounds like a collapsed lifter to me.
And the problem was???????/ Sorry I have not found it and do not have much time to browse all the comments. Can you tell, probably again, what the problem was? Thanks!
It was shown clearly in the video dude!
You made me watch the video again and I did not see any conclusion. I must be stupid, dude!
it was the valves lol right..
I found the best way to avoid fixing engines is to avoid GMC products, i have not had ANY serious engine problems in 30 years since i quite GMC previous to that ... many.....your Vids are great!! shows that anybody can learn automotive diagnostics , it really isn't rocket science keep it up..
Not sure how you come to that conclusion about GMC when my channel alone disputes your argumentum ad populatum logic fallacy.
Schrodingers Box Sorry i should explain, MY family own a very large construction company we buy 5 or 6 trucks per year and have 35 in service we have gone exclusively with 2500 Dodge platform products 5.7's hemi's and cummins we tried the GMC thing, the engines were Junk no torqued gas hogs, 4 blown motors while Hauling loads, (gas engines) and the allison transmissions was the true Disaster for all of them 50% of trucks got new transmissions within 50,000 miles , all SOLD immediately afterwards.. and Ford with its endless frozen-in- the block spark plugs extractions 2 or 3 on every vehicle can't sell them or give away... and other decades long engine issues carried by Ford Triton engines, JUNK no longer made.. as well as 5 late 90's and early 2000's dead powerstrokes engines 100,000 miles on them, rebuilt and sold immediately. been there done that.. lol never again!! LOL!! like i said we have gone with 2500 Dodge platform products 5.7's hemi's and cummins its night and day unquestionable difference in reliability..... so much that we fired our in house Trucks maintenance mechanic LOL (sleeping at the shop)... he's now a crane operator , he does carry around a small box of engine coils though...i will say that the NEW GMC's line are completely new trucks... why did it take them so long to finally build heaVy duty truck.. Screw ford still junk
Pre-Ignition, not Pre-Detonation. Detonation is it's own bad thing, quite different from Pre-Ignition.
Explain the difference for the viewers please.
My layman's explanation (plenty of in depth articles on the web):
Detonation is unspent fuel/gases detonating within the cylinder AFTER normal combustion due to excessive heat/pressure. Detonation is not a controlled burn and has concussive force (sharp pressure spike). This force is what creates the ping/ring sound as the block resonates. This vibration has a specific frequency around 6000hz which knock sensors are tuned to pick up. Engines with higher HP per in3 are more susceptible to damage from detonation. Detonation can cause various types of damage: pitted piston crown, broken ring lands, scuffed piston skirts, fractured valves and plug ceramics, overheating, etc. Detonation and an overheating engine tend to go hand in hand.
Ignition has a sweet spot in relation to degrees from TDC for all gasoline engines. If the fuel in a cylinder is ignited prior to the intended point (as in around 180 degrees before), you have pre-ignition. It is spontaneous combustion PRIOR to ignition. Typically occurs near the beginning of the compression stroke due to a hot element (plug, carbon ember, etc) which acts like a glow plug. There is no high pressure spike but rather excessively high pressure over long periods as expanding gases are compressed via the piston stroke. There is no noise associated with pre-ignition to alert you so it is usually not identified until after it causes catastrophic damage to the engine. Such damage will happen very rapidly as heat builds up, an engine will only survive a few seconds under pre-ignition conditions. Typical symptom is a hole melted through the piston since it is the weakest part with the least ability to dissipate heat, but melted plug electrodes and ceramics are also possible. A plug can actually begin to melt before pre-ignition and then become the source pre-ignition.
So there is no such thing as pre-detonation. Common confusion.
really great video man thanks
if is nocking happing when the engine is cold my understanding GM build it so when is cold piston is extract and this made it less fraction and when come to normal tep which around 180 the noise go way .sorry aboud my spelling.
Yes you refer to "Piston slap" common in LS engines- good guess but this is not piston slap.
thanks for info I did watch yr ved and was lifter .
mazda tribute knocking noise when pushing on gas
Ok... what did your diagnostic indicate is the issue?
I know this is a stupid question, but what do you mean by top and bottom side?
Heads or block.
remove the valves cover and just listen and its a difference with different engine oil i mean mineral half syntetic or cold/warm engine ?
+Farming If I removed the valve covers why would I listen to it and get oil everywhere instead of just looking for loose rocker arms?
if you will know how you will wont get the oil... so just keep looking on your rocker arms bye ...
Farming Suddenly this became a yahoo answers chatroom.
Well i admire you for admitting your not good at finding these noises, i don't think anyone is, you do get a rough idea of what it is top or bottom etc..comes a time where you have to pull the whole thing to bits ad look at it...i have watched quite a lot of your videos on here, pretty good, i was a motor engineer for 45 years from Fred in UK
+Tom Smith I read an article years ago when I was still an armchair mechanic from a guy on how to diagnose engine noise. He said "you should not only be able to tell by ear whether the noise is top or bottom but also WHICH CYLINDER is causing the noise.
I was in awe at what skill that must require!
But now that have experienced at least 2 dozen engine knocks, I realize that guy was 100% full of BS and yet another hack giving advice.
+Schrodingers Box my Dad told me that also. I have a Dodge Charger 2012 SE and I figured out a noise on the engine, like lock, lock, lock, lock. When I called him to let him know that, because he is in New York and I'm in Florida, he told me that too, "I can not only be able to tell by ear whether the noise is top or bottom."
that sounds a lot like valve lifters or worn out rockers...
Bend valvs
Hey man! I wonder if you could find a way to record the engine noise in sync with cylinder firing, you know with data spiking on a graph that you can look at?
That might be a better than watching the timing light and listening.
Sounds like its in the top end man. Will be interesting to see.
+ILTSYC Yes someone else brought that up too- I think it's a brilliant idea! Wish I had thought of that lol! I think next time I get a rod knock or lifter noise I will try that!!
+Schrodingers Box
The only reason I thought of it was because I saw you do the amps test on the starter to measure compression after getting a reference manual compression test on one cyclinder with the Vantage Pro.
Maybe you have the stuff already to do it?
My daugher's Focus is making a simular noise and unfortunately I just found a battered #4 spark plug. I almost couldn't get it out.
Ford Focus are notorious for dropping valve seats.
if the oil pressure light goes out can it be assumed that you have enough oil pressure to not cause a noise.
so then traditional methods of isolating if it's top or bottom and is disabling cylinders and the timing light which doesn't really seam that conclusive. in the past I have been able to hear a slight noise difference disabling cylinders. it'd be nice to have a test more concrete
yeah that "cylinder drop test" leaves a lot to be a desired. one of the things many proponents of that hack method forget is it is useless if there is knock on more than one bearing.
To answer your question, the answer is yes- provided the pressure light is working properly and reflective of the actual pressure.
Schrodingers Box Right that makes a lot of sense if there's two bearings failed. Im dealing with an engine noise complaint. looking for a test or tests to point in a direction. minus oh im the more experienced tech in the shop oh I heard it sounds like x start tearing apart the engine scavenger hunt. it kind of sounds like the car in the video. not a bearing knock which is very distinct.
This is why I like electrical dig. 12 volts here, not here done. Verified tests u can be confident in.
I like that you have documented steps to follow. Also that you take necessary precautions based on unforseen caveats.
BTW, is having windshield wipers engaged necessary for this procedure? Lol
Hahahaha yeah I noticed the wipers on too during editing. Didn't even see it while filming lol
Great video, you are one smart cookie!!
How do you hook up the oil pressure test?
Just right to the potentiometer port.
Hmm, idk but it sounds like one of those engines that runs free after a timing belt breaks. Once the belt is replaced, rods and pushers can be bent and hit the head and make this nose.
i think what you are trying to describe is an interference engine. Go ahead and look up what this is and then you will probably want to come back and edit this comment so it doesn't sound so funny.
Nahh...im sure im way off, it was a guess after watching the video 2nds. Really not necessary, no prizes won here lol
hi i like your videos but you know pulling sparkplug wires off is a bad idea. because if you dont get shocked the spark has to go somwhere and its going back to the computers transistor to damage the transistor and then you have damaged that component if.... it dont shocks you or jumps to ground somwhere..... ground out spark wires propperly for things like this My wilde guess its the hydraulic lifters not being lubed with water oil mix , but only a guess noises on video diagnostic is almost not possibile in my opinion...
You are exactly correct inTrade100. And thats one of the reasons I initially wanted to pull the fuel injector connectors instead. In retrospect, a better idea would have been to use a ground to give the spark a path as you indicated but after getting shocked I didn't think too clearly and just wanted to get it over with lol!
+Schrodingers Box 9.1.16. You only need to pull 3 of the 6 plug wires.......because this is a waste spark ignition. Two cylinders are disabled by pulling just 1 plug wire. Good video series. 👍🏽👀
Steven Sapyak That makes no sense. On a waste spark, there is a separate plug for EACH cylinder. It is just that spark is also sent to the cylinder not at TDC that is shared on the coil.
Unpluging just one wire from the coil only disables that cylinder.
+Schrodingers Box 9.2.16. Yes each cylinder has a spark plug, but there are only three coils....on a 3100/3400 V6 ...pull a plug wire off and the corresponding plug on that coil will not fire. (1-4 5-2. 6-3). The high voltage secondary circuit is open.
Great video 👍
Sounds like the timing belt too me
Thanks for the reply Jimmy but it is definitely not timing belt. It is either Rod knock or valvetrain noise. Guess again.... follow up video with the answer coming soon!
That's the cleanest 3100 I've ever seen!
LOL, I actually always pressure wash the engine before I do any major mechanical procedure. Trust me- it didn't come in looking that way!
Seems like it's raining inside xD
this guy wastes so much time trying to diag bull shit stuff that has nothing to do with the noise. there is no misfire
Wow you're not the sharpest knife in the drawer, are you? The point- quite lucidly stated several times I might add, was to show HOW you would diagnose an engine noise and as any complete tutorial worth its salt would do, it walks you through every possible permutation of etiologies that you might encounter.
How, how did you not follow that- never mind, I already answered that.
Red Doe Running Ah yes I forgot about that- there was indeed a worn plug wire in this video wasn't there! Yep- plug wire arcing to the valve cover would definitely cause misfire. Good call.
Anyway I think that other moron went back to Scotty's channel where he belongs.
Red Doe Running Lol looks like you're having a binge-watching session bro! Take a break from it... the channel will be here lol
Red Doe Running I know the one... actually most automotive channels by far take advantage of the fact that most people know nothing at all about cars but think they do. When a "professional" technician creating a channel is actually just as much of a parts changing hack as the audience, the growth, ironically, will be stupendous!!
+Schrodingers Box A bit of prejudice here.. Scotty's channel remain as a good source for DIY repairs..
I have a question when i crank my car the engine makes a sound thats sounds like a aluminum can crushing. Anyone have any ideas?
Yes- there is an aluminum can in the cylinder. Remove it and problem solved.
Schrodingers Box seriously when i cranking it thats what it sounds like. Its a bmw 325i. Not sure where to start.
So what do you expect? It's a bad crankshaft pulley. I don't know. no one does Take it apart until you find what's broke that's all you can do.
Cam bearings
+russwelday DING DING-- RUSS IS RIGHT. Coolant in oil, run it long enuff and cam will seize and break. I have the same engine that had the intake gasket common problem. By the time my son let me know what was going on figured what the heck-so changed to correct gasket-ran few minutes then changed oil again- started but with annoying tick in top end. Noticed oil light on so shut off. Tried to turn crankshaft but was very hard at certain points--Took top off -cam shaft piece close to pass side would turn but the other end was seized.
There was a turd in the crankcase. I haven't watched the second video yet, either, but I'm pretty confident that a turd was to blame.
After I changed the fuel injectors the car started making a pretty loud fast ticking sound. If you git the gas it goes a way for a second then comes back, any idea?
+spiffcats Sounds like you didn't change the fuel injectors correctly to me. Go back and look for basic mechanical fault.
+spiffcats Actually I take that back- there is another possibility I may have overlooked.
What was data you got that indicated to you that you needed to change the injectors in the first place? That might be a clue!
Schrodingers Box It will run like new for 15 minutes, then suddenly start misfiring and surging. Once it starts doing that its almost impossible to drive. When I took the intake plenum off there was pools of gas, and gas in the vacuum lines.
spiffcats Ok again- what was the evidence the INJECTORS caused this? This is where I would start.
What was the injector pulse average on each bank? What was the static and idle fuel Short and long term fuel trim? What was the O2 sensor reading idle vs WOT?
I need to know how you determined the injectors (all of them??) were the problem.
That is the clue to the engine noise bro.
Schrodingers Box I drove it again today, and the noise is gone. I also noticed cylinder 6 wasnt firing, so I replaced that spark plug (just replaced it 2-3 days ago, must have been defective), and it runs much better. It has been driven for a few hours in the city, no problems, going to take it to the highway and see if it surges at all.
I only have an obd tool that makes the check engine light flash, so I dont know any important data. I figured some part of the fuel injector unit was leaking because there was gas in the vacuum lines. So, I replaced the whole thing as a unit.
I'd like your expert opinion on my knocking noise please help
Sure. What did your diagnostic test indicate?
No codes came up
stephen sparrow No the data from the video.
The tensioner looked in tact and the chain seemed pretty tight but there was maybe a quarter inch play on the right side, I haven't turned the crank yet to line the timing I will post another video of the timing chain set