Someone Condemned This Chevy 5.3L V8, Over This? It Was An Easy Fix But Now... Not So Much
Вставка
- Опубліковано 21 жов 2022
- For parts go to www.Importapart.com OR email us at Importapartsales@gmail.com.
Today's teardown, a regular ol' Gen4 Iron block 5.3L V8, the LMG. This is a 310hp engine found in the 2007-2009 Full size 1/2 ton Chevrolet and GMC Trucks. This is the same as the 2010-2013 engine with the exception of VVT.
We've seen a lot of failure modes on these engines on this channel, and this one is no exception. However, what's sad is that this failure was totally repairable. This engine clearly had lengthy oil change intervals which I believe contributed to this failure, however I'm not sure why this wasn't fixed. The good news is that I now have some much needed parts for my shelves, and for the price, I did quite well on this core.
Why am I doing this? My name is Eric and I own and run a full service auto salvage facility in the Saint Louis Missouri area. Part of our model is tearing down core, or bad engines and salvaging good parts for resale. We do not rebuild engines here, we merely supply parts to those that do.
As always, I love all the comments, feedback and even the criticism.
Catch you on the next one! - Авто та транспорт
![ПОЛНАЯ ИСТОРИЯ ЭКЗОРЦИЗМА [Топ Сикрет]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qBySr6Bt0B8/mqdefault.jpg)
I LOVE that you DONT have any stupid music playing. No fans, or highway noise. I can hear you talk all the time. Keep up the great work.
Facts
Excellent audio/ wireless mic placement & level.
"this beautiful, mint-condition water pump" - ooh, he's gonna throw it. Throw it! "I would definitely use that." CLANG! :D
Love the "Is it really locked up" check 😁
I replaced the hydraulic lifters in my 5.7 litre Chevrolet LS1 V8 engine about 4 years ago & it's still going good, they were just noisy once the engine warmed up & I checked the oil pressure which passed GMs specifications so it wasn't caused by an oil pressure issue.
It didn't have an oil change for 17,000 kilometres (10,500 miles approx) once in its life before I bought the car (Holden VY SS Commodore sedan) & the LS1 lifters tended to be known for becoming noisy for some reason.
So I replaced them with aftermarket LS7 items as well as a brand new Rollmaster timing chain & Melling timing chain damper & adaptor bracket while the timing cover was removed because the timing cover gasket was leaking.
I have had no problems with it ever since & yes, there's people over here in Australia who would've just bolted another engine in instead as well !
For those who are interested a good trick to remove a stuck and broken off dipstick tube from an LS engine block(better then pushing it into the pan and leaving it there) is to find a M6 x 1mm bolt, 3 to 4 inches long, and thread into the dipstick(the bolt will make the threads it needs) and knock the piece of dipstick back and forth until it comes out.
😊😊😊😊
I'll remember that for the next one... Would have been great 3 months ago....🤣
Do it right or not at all
Always lube my stick with silicone grease never had a problem, lube youre sticks guys your pullout will be much easier
@@Airman.. lol
You'd be surprised at all the things you can find in an oil pan. I've found bolts, a 10 mm wrench, an 8 mm swivel socket, 1/2 of a crank sensor, and a whole bunch of broken engine parts. I may be forgetting some things too.
UA-cam just served this video up to me, and I have to admit you have really blown my mind. Way back in my younger days my brother and I rebuilt several late 70's / early 80's Chevy 350's. When you started this tear down I was expecting that once you got to the insides it would all look familiar, but wow, I was so wrong. The only things I recognized were the pistons, connecting rods, crankshaft, camshaft and push rods, nothing else looked familiar. It's been 40+ years since I did any serious mechanic work, I had no idea that engines had changed so much. The insides of a bow-tie 350 were so simple compared to this engine. All I can say is "Wow, just wow." Great video, by the way.
Had a guy do the same with a 6.2 LT platform. Now he’s been waiting 6ish months for a new engine because the new 6.2 L86’s are made of unobtanium.
Another good tear down video. I do like the slightly longer videos. With all the different brands and accessories', I have learned so much watchig them every week. Keep up
the good work. Wishing you and the family congratulations on the new family member.
Wow.....7.5 hours to teardown an engine...You rock 🎸 🎸 🎸
Your sense of humor makes watching these videos so much more enjoyable. Thank you for sharing this with us.
Having torn down lots of engines (usually in far worse condition than this one) I really love these videos, mostly because it's someone else getting his hands dirty lol!! But, very thorough job, and nicely diagnosed. Clearly this motor had had some work done (broken dipstick, head bolts not all torqued down, missing sump bolts), but you got some good saleable bits out of it, so a win!
What a great channel I really enjoy watching all tear downs. It is awesome when you get a lot good parts from the engine. It would be nice to see more around the parts washer. Thank you for all the hard work making these video's us.
Fantastic content as usual. I still remember the first video that showed up in my feed. I almost didn't passed it up as I didn't think someone could be that clean after taking apart an engine and it had to be click bait. Now I am hooked and look forward to all the videos, rehoming, rehabs, rebuilds, and ridiculous amounts of spicy breath. As far as recommendations for future videos, keep going the direction you are going. I don't think it really matters what engine you are tearing down, I would watch even if it was 3.5 hp Briggs & Stratton lawn mower engines, or even 3.x L Dodge, and Chrysler V6's. The amount of knowledge you share from just your experiences is priceless, and you remind me of someone but I cant quite figure out who yet, lol Just kidding.
Thank you for spending all your time in making these videos! It is worth it.
Great presentation, As a retired mechanic seeing many other vids makes me shudder. A little tip I used to do in same situation albeit trying to save everything is once you have movement get the heads off before forcing and use a bottle brush hone to clean the cylinders of rust. Can save damage to piston lands.
love the tear down videos , great to see how these engine are put together.
I still hope for a Northstar engine. Another great video.
Many of these engines end up being scrapped simply because of bad head bolt threads. I'm slowly working on mine and it's mint looking after 130k but sadly head bolt threads have crapped out and need to be redone.
Please don’t think I’m being negative or trying kill your dreams. The Cadillac Northstar is not an engine I would give to my worst enemy. They have so many problems with the majority being head gasket leaking from the minute it left the dealership. Do yourself a favor run from this engine that poses as a northstar.
@@dreece2000 100 percent agree. I’m just interested in seeing the fail points of this infamous engine in a tear down video. I’m an LS guy myself.
@@dreece2000 The many years after the head bolt fix, proved Northstars were very reliable, and powerful motors. People just only remember the bad things about something lately,
@@bricktonyb I respectfully disagree
Hone the cylinders, new rings on the pistons, lifters and you are good to go!
weird. I just pulled a LH6 5.3 l at the wrecking yard today and brought it in the shop not even half an hour ago. So far looks like a winner! all I see is a broken timing chain guide. Pulling the heads, lifters and cam next! I do cars too😉
Your a winner! 👍
Great video as always. Nice to see you got some useable parts to sell. Missed Ol’ Blue and the Safety Tote on this episode. Thanks for the videos and laughs.
Great tear down. That block was super dirty inside. No wonder it developed an oiling problem, most with the dod lifter failure is due to shoddy service intervals. My first vid, I think I’ll become a regular. As an engine builder, keeps my eyes sharp.
Congrats on 150K subscribers Eric! Seems like yesterday that we were celebrating the 100K mark
awesome work bro, love everything you do..... congrats on 150k subs!
Should have way more subs than that!
I think you might be the best car comedian out there. I loved the bent pushrod pull.
Love your content, though I recognize that this is a huge amount of work -- likely 3 hours of editing on top of the teardown. I appreciate that you do it; and I have to say, this is really clever marketing. Thousands of people see your product, see how you handle it, and see what your values are. Really smart, and well done.
What a great channel. Love watching the teardowns and I enjoy the rescue/resto videos as well. Could you maybe show a before & after cleaning of the parts you intend to keep? I would be especially interested to see how the heads & blocks turn out after you run them through the parts washer since a lot of the cores you get were left out in the elements.
All the best to you and your family and thanks for the quality content!
Hoping you just found the channel because if so there’s a lot of videos to catch up on!!
I would watch no matter how long I wish that I worked for you, I always loved to tear down and assemble motor and transmission. Even out of the vehicle depending on what it is and where it is at.
I'm really learning a lot about the 5.3 watching you tearing them apart thank you
It's never a "bad idea" if it works....Love the way you test push rods LOL!
i like the sound of him tapping out the pistons with the hammer handle sped up. good asmr sound.
Oh man i really love your videos! Always a Pleasure to watch. I would love to see you disassemble an Porsche Engine, maybe even a turbo one. Keep up you’re good work and greets from Bavaria, Germany ✌🏻
As far as that cross, I have found 2 different setups depending on the engine. Someone will always counter but on untouched stuff I have always found this true. If the engine has 799 heads on it, it has those pock marked piston with the cross cast in. Find the same engine but with 243 heads on it, it has the smooth pistons without the crosses. I assume its just assembly plant parts supply things.
Time to grab a case of beer and relax to my favorite channel!! Hoping for some total carnage!!
Cracking the headbolts loose is Mechanic ASMR... love it!
Thank you for the video.
I think the head gasket blown is the cleaning of the piston and a water pump was an attempt to repair the over heating.
My truck had one owner before I bought it (2011 Silverado 5.3) and has a good history on oil changes. I change oil every 4-5k, when it hits the 20% change. I’m at 176k and it’s running well. I still hate the DOD but it is what it is.
Congrats for 150k subscribers 🎉😁
nice content again! And here 's another example what will happen when you do not change the oil often enough
Holy Cow, I didn’t know you guys were located in Hazelwood, MO. I used to live in Hazelwood as a kid and even went to Hazelwood Central high school for a semester my freshman year. In fact, I lived all over the St.Louis metro including on the IL, side of the river. I still have family there as well. I know live in Kansas, just on the west side of the MO boarder. Thanks for the awesome video
The ones with the cross on the top have a rougher finish, and the ones without the cross are smooth as glass.
I wonder if the cross adds strength? ....or heat dissipation? .......or compression.....and all of that having to do with it's location relative to the engine compartment of that particular model. Just a guess.
"if you start noticing issues, stop driving immediately"
Solid advice. But I was curious. I had a seized lifter in my 2012 GMC Sierra. Knew I would be doing a motor because I also had low oil pressure issues. But as I said, I was curious. So I kept driving it on 7 cylinders with low oil pressure. Pretty soon the seized lifter on 6 managed to wipe out cylinder 8. At that point I stopped driving it, mostly because it wouldn't drive. I didn't know it at the time, but I also had the classic oil consumption problems. Piston skirts, glazed cylinder walls, PCV, etc.
I promise I'm taking much better care of the new motor. I just didn't care about the old one because I bought the truck used. Previous owner didn't keep up with oil changes. It was too late by the time I took ownership.
Your channel name says it all for me. Thanks
Very nice presentation! Great filming. Easy to watch, in fact I kinda got sucked in, but I loved it. Wish I had a shop to do this too. Do you have an assistant to reposition the camera? or do you have to stop and take off the gloves every time?
Watching and liking your contents from Saudi Arabia 🇸🇦 👍🏻 keep on
keep up the videos and we all win. love the channel
I do an L96 swap a couple times a year, and yeah that dipstick is a pain. I had one break like that, and now I just pull the pan and knock it out from the underside.
You are a legend... Thanks for your time and knowledge ... Much appreciated dude ...
I liked the checking to see if all the pistons come up to the top. Maybe a new mini segment interlude with game show music or a "pick the piston(s)" guessing game. And as always, I love your channel and I'll catch ya on the next one. 🤙
About a month and a half ago I bought a 2008 Silverado with 148k with one of these engines. 2 weeks after owning it cyl 1 dod lifter collapsed. The same exact location as on this engine. It took me and a buddy a weekend to get it fixed as we’ve never taken apart one of these engines and weren’t prepared for this to happen at All. After getting it fixed with just a few new lifters, everything is running smoother than when I purchased the truck. I’ve since bought a range technology module that doesn’t allow it to go into 4 cyl mode and I just finished up a nice road trip with 0 hiccups whatsoever so I suppose I was one of the lucky ones where only a few lifters took care of the problem. The cam and all other parts that can get wiped out were okay on it, I guess I caught it early enough. The previous owners must have taken decent care as the inside of the engine seemed pretty clean to me also.
One can only hope for a ford 460, love the videos !
I dunno if it’s still broke, but would love to see more before and after shots in the parts washer.
It’s fixed, and I’ll incorporate some of that into future teardowns
@@I_Do_Cars fries are done
@@picax8398 you remember ❤️
@@I_Do_Cars nice! There’s still a part of me that’s addicted to power washing videos…..what if you put a GoPro in the parts washer???
@@I_Do_Cars of course I do! Who doesn't like caustic fries?
I have an 07 Avalanche and had this problem. Actually it's not an easy call to replace a bad lifter as there are a number of parts that should be replaced along with the lifters if you want an engine you can count on. When the AFM lifters go they usually have $1600 in upgrade parts to comply with the service notices and even then it seems the valve problems cause oil to get sucked past rings and they stick and have high oil consumption. I ended up buying a factory remain for about $4200 and swapping it out. I had good results after about 50000 miles on the remain everything has been great. One thing I found surprising was that GM really wanted the core back, REALLY! The core charge was $2000 and that makes me wonder what sort of knuckle head left this engine out in the rain?
I see this about once a month at work. DOD failure is not an option, but only a matter of when. Best thing to do is a DOD Delete kit if you are buying one. By the looks of this one. Oil Changes went a few thousand over due, and cheap off brand oil was used a lot. Just keep this one thing in mind when it comes to engine oil. Good isn't cheap, and cheap isn't good. Plus an oil treatment like Lucas or BG's MOA is worth the extra bucks. I use Lucas in my 2003 Ranger with over 300,000 on the clock, and my 2003 Forester with 200,000 on it. Both are original engines and still gets me where I need to go. And the insides look nice and clean when I replaced the valve cover gaskets on the Ranger, and Head Gaskets on the Subaru (also handy tip. On the EJ 2.5. Use the turbo WRX gaskets and Dexcool, and never worry about them again).
Valvoline VR1 recently saved my bottom end from a random oil pump failure. Well worth the extra few bucks.
I second the endorsement of Lucas oil treatment and premium oil. Good stuff!
What Lucas Oil product do you use? Their website is filled with products.
My 03 5.3 has 548,629 as of right this minute. Only o rings on pick up tube and intake gasket is as deep in as I've been on it. I'm second owner and I know the other guy. I bought it off him at around 180,000. I just use 10/30 control in winter and 10/40 in summer. Sorta on 4000 mile changes. Every other change I'll put trans fluid in a couple days before to clean it out. I think another important thing that I do religiously is let her warm up to temp in the morning before hitting the road.
Edit: it does smoke on start up now and started that at about 500,000. Still runs hard and don't give it any slack.
I honestly don't see any value in adding Lucas in a engine, especially when the bearing tolerances are crucial to the lifespan of the engine. On a cold start in winter has it occurred to ya that the viscosity is changed causing the oil to increase premature wear due to the amount of oil at the cam,mains,and rod journals is less than what it should be? Just run regular 5W30 synthetic blend and your engine will be right as rain. Now a REAL oil additive that does not alter the viscosity number is MOA from BG, I have never seen a engine failure from the use of this product, I stand on that with the one leg i have left too!!!
Wow. I typically have my car engines changed every 10k miles since there is probably some wear at that point. Can't be too careful.
My Sierra 4x4 had a similar issue, roller compressed. Did a DOD delete and replaced pushrods and rockers since I was already inside. Did all the work myself and really wished I had a engine lift to properly remove and install the pick up tube. Was a nightmare getting access to it while inside the engine. And with the 4x4, I had even less space to work with, oil pan was unable to be removed completely. And caused me some oil leaks that will need to fix with a new oil pan gasket and maybe a simple resurface.
I wish I could quadruple like videos, cause I would on your videos. I appreciate your doing them. Specially when it came to the powerstroke. Thank You!
I picked up a 2010 Silverado 5.3 DOD pickup with 110K on the clock. The previous owner had the GM recall where they replaced cam/lifters/oil pump/DOD system. Put another 10K on it without any issues - lifters are quiet and oil pressure is normal. The previous owner faithfully used the Oil Life Indicator as indicator to change the oil plus used name brand oil + decent filters. I have changed the oil several times and always use Mobile 1 high mileage synthetic. It took a few changes to get the oil to stay light-colored and not turn dark. I believe the oil life system isn't the best indicator of when to change the oil especially in New England where every winter a lot of vehicles will be in 'severe service' operation due to excessive idling/not warming up. Hoping it will keep running strong and the problems will be limited to the GM electrical system that we all are used to fixing!
The main reason people go for 2007+ pistons and rods is on the earlier model 5.3's the pistons are much thinner, ie the skirt to top of piston is shorter. This causes something called "piston slap" on the earlier engines where the shorter pistons have enough give to rock back and forth and "slap" the side of the cylinder walls. Now piston slap rarely causes issues but its an unpleasant noise to hear on startup.
Another Sunday morning watching a teardown, drinking coffee while the wife is still in bed. Just me, the dog and I DO CARS. 👍👍👍👍👍
Yesssss thanks a lot for all these video😍
Ive probably commented about it before but nice heated hoodie, i have one of the original ones in grey, and i just got a new one in green, new one heats up super fast
The moment I saw the "textbook failure" I wondered if it was a DoD/AFM failure. Shame this engine was condemned for just that. Delete kit and it would've been on the road again.
Those lifters are the Achilles heal of those gm engines
My mom had a '10 Silverado that developed that issue. The shop bill wasn't pretty, but it was less than a new engine.
Really enjoying your channel! Keep it going?
another great teardown video. thanks
The vaunted LS . I started buying them after realizing they'll be in high demand for the next century or 2. Alum blocks , even more so . Super Compact[fit in anything] , Inexpensive High HP potential. All 4.8 -5.3 iron bloks easily bore to 3.90 LS1 5.7 spec.[$400 in Austin Tx] . If you don't have one , get it kwik , keep it dry. Lithium spray is a good long term preservative.
Great info, Great video
#265👍👏🎉🤔🤣💖Great show Eric! You always brighten my Saturday!! Glad this was good for business too. There is something enjoyable about these simple engines? Not so overly complicated! I had a 69 442 Olds I would have liked to have kept but Dad let broken tire chains and rust rot ruin a really nice car. Traded it in 1980 for a 280zx! Such a great ride too!! Later...
The cross on top is from dies during the casting process. I used to work for a security company at GM and seen many of those pistons. I'd bet those pistons have a GMPT-B on the side from GM powertrain casting facility in Bedford INDIANA.
Love the videos, I know it would be hard to find but I think it would be great if you got a Ford 300 or an amc 242 i6
especially the ford 300, that would be really interesting to take a look into
Problem with the AMC I6 is finding one that's failed to take apart.
That and taking it apart would be about a five minute video.
Yeah both are very simple and robust engines but I think if one did blow it would end up being spectacular
Great video just come over, Rainman Ray sent me and if this is any indication, I will be watching more of them.
I have that same engine in my Tahoe. I did a DoD delete, replaced the oil pump, changed the cam with a little lope to it and it runs great. I have about 260k on it.
One of the best channels ever!!!!!
Just another reason I love my Gen3 5.3. It probably doesn't get quite as good fuel economy as the newer AFM/VVT engines, but I don't have to worry about those systems failing.
love the sarcasm of oh that's in really nice shape! chucks it in a bin with a loud clang!
Enjoyed the video :)
Would love to see anything Honda K24, or GM 3800 series. Plentiful motors, both highly regarded (granted not so much the Series II) but still reliable motors sold in many vehicles.
High likelihood many viewers have owned one, or multiple of these.
Eric did a couple K20's over a year ago.
I guess it’s time for some more Honda carnage 😎
@@I_Do_Cars K24W1 or W9. Those are the DI ones they had in the Accord and CR-V and for some reason they drink oil (or at least the ones I see do).
@@I_Do_Cars j35 with VCM!!!
*Me patiently wating to hear that water pump grow wings* THUD! Me: Ahhhhh there it is! 😆
That's just another way I test push rods! 😆
As a used car mechanic I enjoy all your videos. I would like to request a video on the Chrysler 2.7L V6.
Mike in Nebraska
The really locked up check was quite funny! Glad the loader did not come out.
On stuck V engines I usually see someone put whatever fluid in the cylinders to free the rings not realizing its only going to pool at the bottom. Turning the engine so each bank is vertical for a few days with however much fluid is what I've done since un-freezing my first "will it have a sticker next week" car three decades ago. Just my one and a half cents.
11:30 - You should be able to go to your fave metal-monger or Online Metals and buy tube which will fit closely around the pushrod and have enough wall thickness to keep that from happening.
22:09 - Buff right out!
22:17 - Rods get all the 'stuff'; they're at the bottom of the food-chain when it comes to lube. Mains should be good.
24:15 - Are ten-over piston/ring sets available? Bet you'd get a good ring seal.
"I wonder if it's rust.... It's probably not rust..." I laughed :)
Absolutely true about maintaining AFM LS engines. Change the oil at least every 6000 miles and use a good quality synthetic motor oil and they seldom have issues. BTW- there is a small screen in the oil passage feeding the LOM module, if it becomes restricted or plugged with debris it will cause AFM lifter failure. The screen is accessable under the oil pressure sender. Thanks, great video as always!
Can you find and do a Toyota 1HD? These 4.2 straight 6 engines are known for extreme heavy hauling and high milage. The Landcruiser 100 is my most favorite 4x4 and used (in Holland) by the more fortunate builders and market salesmen. Hauling up to 9 tons or 20.000 lbs (and above) day by day.
Big fan of your channel
PERFECT candidate for an iron block 5.7
Greatest show on UA-cam
A VW TSI 4 banger would be a cool teardown. Three different Gens put in a ton of cars
@@killdizzle maybe he means a 1.4 litre tsi. Nightmare engines
My LMG has 125k on her now, and the stock lifters are still alive! I know - a friggin miracle, lol. I attribute that to my use of synthetic oils since 2,500 miles, plus a Range AFM disabler I plugged in at 75k miles. Lifters either would have already failed, or would be failing right now had I not!
Eric,
Do you ever have any of the parts you pull Magnafluxed? I do that for a living and got to inspect an old VW bug crank recently. It had quite a few cracks on the bearing journals and a few at the radius where the journal meets the counterbalances.
My Pontiac G8 6.0 had one of the standard lifters fail. Metal flaking off the roller wheel and chewed up the bearings. Doesn't seem too common the failure that I had.
Every time I see all your miata parts I get so jealous lol I have a small hoard of parts myself. But for some reason I feel like it's never enough. I just wanna own 50 miatas and parts for all of them.
I normally use my company23 Subaru front CV shaft roll pin removal punch to drive those LS family dipstick tube stumps out of blocks. It's not perfect, it does flare the end of the tube sometimes and I have to cut it off before it'll fit through the block, but it always knocks it loose.
I got a '99 Z-71 pickup with a new 5.7 that was locked up. The story was that the guy installed the new engine, it wouldn't start, he got pissed off, and left it to rot. It wouldn't start because he installed the distributor 180 off, it sucks that he didn't catch that. I'm guessing that the fuel washed the oil off the cylinders from trying to start it and after many years of sitting the cylinders rusted and locked it up. I forced it free which took a fair bit of effort, but as soon as I got it freed enough that it would crank over it fired up and ran perfectly. I was shocked that there was no noise or oil smoke.
Great teardown Dr. Eric.
I had my own 'I Do Cars' exploratory moment when I thought I landed a deal on a JD 214 tractor I was going to use to level a spot for a shop pad.
Turns out the p.o. ran 'er into the ground without oil (big surprise, eh?) til the piston friction welded itself into the cylinder, turning a pretty average ring job into a complete rebuild. Then I get a bit further and see all the carnage in the bottom end. 🤦♂ Yeah, that just went from $200 in parts to a 'can this be saved??' $1000 machining project. Welp, not the end of a recent purchase I wanted to be on, but now I have the experience of seeing someone else's misdeeds like this fine fellow does!
Been a long time subscriber and I love the content. Sure it's fun to imagine how the carnage happens, lol but it has been very informative in a lot of different ways. But I've wanted to buy things from you and haven't been able to. I've been to your website too. But I'm hoping to get a relatively decent 5.7lts eagle hemi. I really want to work on building one but I only want it if I can get the core from you. Can you help me out with purchasing one? Thank you. Keep the malice coming.
Bought chevys since the 80s. Really enjoyed the gm points when it came time to buy a new one. Always had 2 or 3k knocked off my best negotiated price. 2015 silverado blew up at 70k. Needed 5grand to rebuild so I traded it in for a new 2018. I assumed I had messed up the repair on misfiring cylinder... new coil fixed the problem for a month.
After buying the 18 I find tons of dod stories about this problem dating back many years, even happening to new vehicles. A class action lawsuit in progress. I've got some 2500 points racked up but I'll never give them my money again.
I'd but a Ford or Ram next but truck prices are ridiculous. My solution for now is a dod delete via the OBD port. It stays 8cyl all the time and lifters never collapse. Mileage has not been affected significantly at all. I'm getting 18.3/21 running the a/c, even better rest of the year. DOD is a stupid gimmick with no appreciable returns.