I would like to see/hear more info on your rudder trim modifications. I like Cleaveland Aircraft Tools (CAT) a lot, too. Also, I like their UA-cam videos about their tools and how to use them. I do not understand why you used double sided tape to build the trailing edge of the rudder. In my opinion, it is structurally insignificant compared to the rivets. It might hold things in place when you are back riveting a trailing edge, but you used the special CAT squeezer set. I found that clekos hold everything in place quite adequately. I recommend alternating the rivets on a trailing edge between shop head up and factory head up. I also found that a half size longer rivet works just fine. It looks like your edge forming tool is different than the one that CAT sells. Is it any better or cheaper? I do not understand why you would need to use such a tool when building a trailing edge. I am also building an RV-10. My UA-cam channel is 345DF. My channel is much smaller than yours. I would welcome any suggestions or comments that you have about any of my videos.
Yes you could do it without the tape, but Vans recommends using the tape now. Consider reading section 5 of the plans, page 5-11. They even include the part number for the tape. The clecos hold it but it will slip a little without the tape. this way makes for a nicer straight line. I did alternate the rivets, as I have done on all of the other aircraft. :)
So cool that you still had the jigs! 😄
I would like to see/hear more info on your rudder trim modifications.
I like Cleaveland Aircraft Tools (CAT) a lot, too. Also, I like their UA-cam videos about their tools and how to use them.
I do not understand why you used double sided tape to build the trailing edge of the rudder. In my opinion, it is structurally insignificant compared to the rivets. It might hold things in place when you are back riveting a trailing edge, but you used the special CAT squeezer set. I found that clekos hold everything in place quite adequately.
I recommend alternating the rivets on a trailing edge between shop head up and factory head up. I also found that a half size longer rivet works just fine.
It looks like your edge forming tool is different than the one that CAT sells. Is it any better or cheaper? I do not understand why you would need to use such a tool when building a trailing edge.
I am also building an RV-10. My UA-cam channel is 345DF. My channel is much smaller than yours. I would welcome any suggestions or comments that you have about any of my videos.
Yes you could do it without the tape, but Vans recommends using the tape now. Consider reading section 5 of the plans, page 5-11. They even include the part number for the tape. The clecos hold it but it will slip a little without the tape. this way makes for a nicer straight line. I did alternate the rivets, as I have done on all of the other aircraft. :)
I like that debut tool. After building my 10 it felt dull. How do you change the blade?
ua-cam.com/video/itZ2RUrtr0w/v-deo.html (instructions for changing blades)
@@baselegaviation1614 Whats the lifespan of the cogsdill tool? Can you expect to change blades out through the Rv-10 build?
I would order a spare blade as once in a while you can break a blade. if you are careful they do seem to last.