Just got my car checked out at an Audi Service shop here in Sydney. They quoted me $2400 for the front upper control arms LH & RH bushings Glad i came across your video because I’ll be doing the job myself. For a replacement kit that will cost me maybe $300-500 to buy and DIY Thank you for your video
The thing is i think because here in Australia if you wanted genuine audi parts, the thing why they might be this expensive is because they get imported, taxed and you’re paying for all of this included. But i managed to find a mechanic who did it for $1600AU and yes i know that is Still expensive but it was the cheapest i could get quoted for
Yup. OEM German car parts are EXPENSIVE!!!!! in Australia. Just did it myself for $140 AUD. Not OEM control arms. Thanks for video. No seized bolts either. Next up, front brakes. Quoted $1900.00 AUD to do front rotors and pads. $550.00 myself with quality upgrades. MB, BMW, and AUDI should hang their heads in shame for these prices.
A hint from Germany, to loosen the screw, it is useful to tear off the screw head on the right side. Then you should put washers on the left side on the screw thread and then put the nut back on. Afterwards turn the nut until no screw thread is left. Then put washers back on until the screw is out. And don’t forget to use some fluids. Heating the aluminum construction can cause some cracks. And if you are working on it don’t forget to put some washers into the slits to avoid damage.
Thanks a lot for sharing your knowing. I own a 2012 A5 Sportback 2.0 TFSI with 145.000 km, and it has become so imprecise (Last 20.000 km I've noticed more and more imprecission)...upper control arms bushings seems to be too much worn out...so i'm about to receive a new set of control arms for replacing it, following your nice tricks! I hope this refresh improves the driving experience 🤞
Hello, greetings from Madrid. I have already changed the front upper control arms and I have to say I have a new car!! When removing the old arms, I have the feeling that the problem that generates the inaccurate steering is not so much the silentblocks as the ball joints (these have a lot of movement and play and can be moved with a finger, in contrast to those that come in the new arms , you need a hammer to move them). Otherwise, the process has been easier than expected, because the through screw came out very easily on both sides. Thank you so much for everything. Audi forever!
I've been fighting tons of seized bolts on my b5 v6. I don't even bother turning them without applying some heat now. I know this bolt will be another pain but at least it is easier to access than the down pipe studs. I had to engineer a special jig to drill them out precisely and not damage the threads. Anyway, best upper control arm vid I've seen on UA-cam, thanks!
@@mikes.garage Took my time and in 2 hours after taking a break every 15 min I got it off. Once it started to budge I kept going back and forth while spraying penetrating oil and it was so satisfying to see it pull out.
Leave an entire can of wd 40 24 then 48s hrs on before then they come straight off. Trust this is the norm with rusty bolts I work on land rovers and I need a fully qualified archeologist with me to un earth some of those bolts
I should preemptively make a jig, this looks like it could be a pain. Mine my control arms are fine now, but I’d rather not panic when it comes time to do this repair.
Its not that bad of a mix, Al alloys are very close to carbon steel on their own. The bolts are zinc plated which protects the AL but over time when its exposed to salt it will still corrode. Its a crappy design unfortunately, and the only solution is to remove and grease the bolts within a couple of yeas before they freeze.
Attempting this at the weekend. Just lifted the car to get some plusgas on the bolts and both sides turned with the breaker. Keeping my fingers crossed for it!
This is first best video about upper control arms. All others using some pointless special tools and shit. You just do i as real mechanic. Using what you've got. Im about to replace mines in few days. And exactly like you did. Never used any f... Special tools. And job still gets done 😎🤙👍
Don't use heat. Best to spray penetrating fluid on the bolt, if you can start doing it regularly a few days or better weeks before the repair. Best method is to snap the bolt head of. Then use the threaded side to pull the bolt out. Use washers when you tighten the nut, it will pull the bolt. Unscrew the nut, add more washers, tighten, unscrew again, more washers, tighten and so on. Works in 99% of cases and you'll get that bolt out in 15 minutes.
I have the same. It's either the worn brake pads or the sway bar U-brackets. Brakes being done next, so will know for sure now. Audi dealership couldn't work it out, pathetic. 😞
One of my upper control arms is not flush with the knuckle, is it designed like that by factory. I have seen all other Q7 and Q5 and they are flush on both sides
You can use something like this Powerbuilt 640830 3/8-Inch Drive Crowfoot Wrench Set, 10-Piece a.co/d/1sK0y0H. Or just tight it with two wrenches tight.
How long does it take for these to seize? My mechanic struggled with taking off if not one of the pinch bolts, then both of them just like this in 2021. I had the ctrl arms replaced back then with cheap eBay knockoffs. They’re toast now so I got a good set from Urotuning of Meyle HDs. Would 2021 up to now be enough for them to seize this much? The car also sat from Jan 2023 to Sep 2024, just recently started being driven.
@@mikes.garage You´ll find enough videos about it. Steal you can heat as it is nessessary but aluminium is other metal. With the time ist will lose its structure. You can't see it right after work now - but there might be consequences - as to say aluminium has a special brain after having heated it.
@@hanszahl5706 I'm sorry man, but you should know, there is enough wrong videos about everything. I don't try to teach anybody of anything, I just show to people how I did it and how all of this looks like. Also I was studying how to mix and smelt metals and I know for sure that they do not have brain and after heating it up nothing is going to happen.
Since a torque wrench is too big to fit the between the spring and the upper control arms. What did you use to torque them to the 50Nm + 90 degrees? A regular wrench can't torque them.
You can put Fixed Square on your torque wrench and it will fit www.amazon.ca/dp/B000NPR2BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_ZLp0FbPNV8A7M Also this tool will work www.amazon.ca/dp/B07WVV2G18/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_GSp0Fb73QTQJC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Is the control arm threaded? Or does the bolt just go slide through and get tightened with the nut? Just about to tackle my wife’s Q5 drive axle and it says to loosen control arm to remove on passenger side… driver side I did a month ago and didn’t have to remove bolt
You do not put copper grease near aluminium fittings as there is a risk of concentration cell corrosion. Put ceramic grease in. It's easier to fit the arms to the rear mounts first and then put them in the hub carrier.
May I ask what's the working position? I've watched a few audi control arm videos and nobody seems to be precise about this point. Is it simply lowering it all the way down?
@@mikes.garage tnx for link. I am battling 3h and iit did move but in half way it stop and i demolish the thread on a nut side and no luck to find the nut in store. I will punch it tru with heat. Wish me luck.
Don’t use copper slip on Aluminum/steel… you will make it gall and seize and weld up for sure… aluminum or nickel anti seize is best or some ceramic… but NEVER copper!
why is that? copper is closer to alu then nickle is on the galvanic chart, and copper is used all the time with aluminum fins on heat exchanges, there must be something else otherwise copper is the better choice.
See how loose the cornering capabilities are how unstable this is in turning feel when you drive to wobbly to stay in proper lanes and stay stable in passing to other Lane's.
Thank you for watching! But this copper paste is not damages aluminum. Here read description: www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/permatex-copper-anti-seize-226-g-0383776p.html Applications: Spark plug threads installed in aluminum, exhaust manifold bolts, engine bolts, oxygen sensors, knock sensors, thermostat housing bolts, fuel filter fittings and battery cable connections
@@mikes.garage seeing you posting a link from Canadian Tire (BTW, that's what I've bought too) there's only 1 conclusion, we live in the same county... Greetings from Langley BC!
@@mikes.garage I've survived to New Brunswick for 2 years, I've literally bored the hell out of myself for another 2 years in Edmonton, I've been living in BC (bring cash) for quite some years now, I've seen all of Canada from Newfoundland to Victoria, BC it's still the best place to live. Welcome to BC, do you like beer?
Cut the head, in outer side put on good quality nut, then heat it + some smash to overall loosening, then you can just unscrew this bolt, nut will push it via thread.
Amazing DIY video :) I recently bought a 2009 A5 with 87k miles. I am aware the front shock need replace at time of purhase. Considering replacing those 2 control arms same time. May i ask what mileage is your can and what symptoms you experiene with these bad bushing. Just dont want to replace the arms if they many years life left:)
Thank you! My had over 200 000 km. The symptoms was not clear control and the noise of torn rubber rubbing against each other when cornering. To check, it is best to lift the car so that the wheels are in weight and turn the wheels to one side and watch the state of the rubber bushings, if they have big cracks then it's time to replace them.
@@mikes.garage thanks. I'll heat it up and turn it, if it breaks... I'll put a few washers, put the nut back and thighten, hopefully I'll pull it out, if doesn't work... I'll stick a punch in and beat the shit out of it, if doesn't work... I'll take the whole thing down and drill the bolt out...
Thats a good question, from what i gather, grease or anti seize is a cost adder, both material and time, thats multiplied over 500,000+ units, so its rarely used. Parts seizes up after the warranty period, so the company does not care. The only places i have seen grease used from the factory are the in-chassis nuts such as rear upper damper bolts and the 4 sub frame bolts. if the sub frame bolts ever sized up and broke, it can pretty much write off the car. Since "engine out" work is expected im sure the dealers dont want to be responsible for that 🤣
Here is the link www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/audi,2010,a5,3.2l+v6,2002707,suspension,control+arm,10401 But you still need to choose yours car year model and engine type. This was 2010 A5 with 3.2L engine.
Great DIY video. I assume you didn't use a torque wrench to tighten the upper control bolts, because there wasn't enough room to get a torque wrench in there. Thanks.
Thank you! I didn't at this time, but I torque it when I received my wrench ends www.amazon.ca/dp/B004QO9JOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_i_6P83E2ZDH6MHXXQ083B1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Hi do you recall the milage on the car at this point and what was the reason for changing them? What sort of symptoms or problems did it give for needing to replace them? Thank you 🙏
Hi, milage on this car was around 200 000 km. The reason for changeing was not clear control and the noise of torn rubber rubbing against each other when cornering. To check, it is best to lift the car so that the wheels are in weight and turn the wheels to one side and watch the state of the rubber bushings, if they have big cracks then it's time to replace them.
You probably have bend arms. Or maybe installed wrong arms. It has upper front and rear arm plus front wheel and all wheel drive car has different arms.
That was luck. Using the hammer may bend the bolt. And a bent bolt won't fit through the hole. My to cents: It is mandatory to pull this bolt instead of pushing it. Some people break off the head and use the thread to pull (multiple washers and nut screwed on, repeat several times with even more washers).
Those pinch bolts are a real pain in the ass, heat on aluminium can cause cracking I’ve had to replace those hub carriers before now, I dread doing these.
My bro did 2 audis, i attempted mine... Disastrous, both sides upper control arm bolts seized and busted. I bought used spindles, brand new upper and lower control arm kits, new wheel bearings and hubs. Now i just unbolt from the subframe side and put all new. This design holds the road good, but its a bitch to fix!
@@mikes.garage yes, previous owner (garage) replaced control arms, so it was already damaged. When i lowered my car and torqued it, it broke (at 40nm), so had to replace the whole spindle.
@@marktaylor6359 oh really? I wasn't aware that was the reason. Thanks. German cars must be the one most annoying cars to do work on. I've an Audi A4 I can attest to that 😂
Video should be renamed. " how to remove the poxy audi pinch pin.".. Lots of swearing. Hitting heating swearing. Screaming. Sparyomg swearing some more
Just got my car checked out at an Audi Service shop here in Sydney.
They quoted me $2400 for the front upper control arms LH & RH bushings
Glad i came across your video because I’ll be doing the job myself. For a replacement kit that will cost me maybe $300-500 to buy and DIY
Thank you for your video
Thank you for watching! This is crazy price for repair.
2400? Holy hell my local German specialty shop quoted 450, they were trying to rip you off big time.
300 to 500 for the kit? Including the control arms? That's really cheap!
The thing is i think because here in Australia if you wanted genuine audi parts, the thing why they might be this expensive is because they get imported, taxed and you’re paying for all of this included.
But i managed to find a mechanic who did it for $1600AU and yes i know that is Still expensive but it was the cheapest i could get quoted for
Yup. OEM German car parts are EXPENSIVE!!!!! in Australia. Just did it myself for $140 AUD. Not OEM control arms. Thanks for video. No seized bolts either.
Next up, front brakes. Quoted $1900.00 AUD to do front rotors and pads. $550.00 myself with quality upgrades.
MB, BMW, and AUDI should hang their heads in shame for these prices.
A hint from Germany, to loosen the screw, it is useful to tear off the screw head on the right side. Then you should put washers on the left side on the screw thread and then put the nut back on. Afterwards turn the nut until no screw thread is left. Then put washers back on until the screw is out. And don’t forget to use some fluids. Heating the aluminum construction can cause some cracks. And if you are working on it don’t forget to put some washers into the slits to avoid damage.
it was impossible to remove that bolt even with heat. Thank god these cars are everywhere at scrapyards so i got a spindle with brand new upper arms.
Thanks a lot for sharing your knowing. I own a 2012 A5 Sportback 2.0 TFSI with 145.000 km, and it has become so imprecise (Last 20.000 km I've noticed more and more imprecission)...upper control arms bushings seems to be too much worn out...so i'm about to receive a new set of control arms for replacing it, following your nice tricks! I hope this refresh improves the driving experience 🤞
Thank you for watching! This is definitely will improve your driving experience
Hello, greetings from Madrid. I have already changed the front upper control arms and I have to say I have a new car!! When removing the old arms, I have the feeling that the problem that generates the inaccurate steering is not so much the silentblocks as the ball joints (these have a lot of movement and play and can be moved with a finger, in contrast to those that come in the new arms , you need a hammer to move them). Otherwise, the process has been easier than expected, because the through screw came out very easily on both sides. Thank you so much for everything. Audi forever!
I've been fighting tons of seized bolts on my b5 v6. I don't even bother turning them without applying some heat now. I know this bolt will be another pain but at least it is easier to access than the down pipe studs. I had to engineer a special jig to drill them out precisely and not damage the threads.
Anyway, best upper control arm vid I've seen on UA-cam, thanks!
Thank you for watching! And good luck with this job 😉
@@mikes.garage Took my time and in 2 hours after taking a break every 15 min I got it off. Once it started to budge I kept going back and forth while spraying penetrating oil and it was so satisfying to see it pull out.
@@MusicalLounge I'm glad you made it!
Leave an entire can of wd 40 24 then 48s hrs on before then they come straight off. Trust this is the norm with rusty bolts I work on land rovers and I need a fully qualified archeologist with me to un earth some of those bolts
I should preemptively make a jig, this looks like it could be a pain. Mine my control arms are fine now, but I’d rather not panic when it comes time to do this repair.
Best engineers ever putting a steel bolt together with alu controll arm 😂
Its not that bad of a mix, Al alloys are very close to carbon steel on their own. The bolts are zinc plated which protects the AL but over time when its exposed to salt it will still corrode. Its a crappy design unfortunately, and the only solution is to remove and grease the bolts within a couple of yeas before they freeze.
Yeah I have hated Audi for this design several times, once I could not get the bolt out and the customer needed to pay for a new hub carrier 🙄
@@brm3162 You're joking, right?
Attempting this at the weekend. Just lifted the car to get some plusgas on the bolts and both sides turned with the breaker. Keeping my fingers crossed for it!
Good luck!
This ASMR idea is actually exellent.
Thank you!
This is first best video about upper control arms. All others using some pointless special tools and shit. You just do i as real mechanic. Using what you've got. Im about to replace mines in few days. And exactly like you did. Never used any f... Special tools. And job still gets done 😎🤙👍
Thank you for support! 😁
your wrench collection is impressive!!
Thank you!
Don't use heat. Best to spray penetrating fluid on the bolt, if you can start doing it regularly a few days or better weeks before the repair. Best method is to snap the bolt head of. Then use the threaded side to pull the bolt out. Use washers when you tighten the nut, it will pull the bolt. Unscrew the nut, add more washers, tighten, unscrew again, more washers, tighten and so on. Works in 99% of cases and you'll get that bolt out in 15 minutes.
@@dmdwst8787 Not always work your method.
My A5 coupe has a ticking noise when setting off and turning right
Not the CV joint...wonder if its the top links
I can’t say like this, what wrong with it.
@@mikes.garage it's going in again to my Audi specialist next week
I have the same. It's either the worn brake pads or the sway bar U-brackets. Brakes being done next, so will know for sure now. Audi dealership couldn't work it out, pathetic. 😞
One of my upper control arms is not flush with the knuckle, is it designed like that by factory. I have seen all other Q7 and Q5 and they are flush on both sides
Thank you for the video .. maybe already mentioned here but do I need a new alignment after that?
Thank you for watching! Preferably to do the alignment after any suspension repair but this is not mandatory 😉
Hi. I didnt see you torque the arm bolts. I cant get the large torque wrench in position to torque. What did u do?
You can use something like this Powerbuilt 640830 3/8-Inch Drive Crowfoot Wrench Set, 10-Piece a.co/d/1sK0y0H. Or just tight it with two wrenches tight.
How long does it take for these to seize? My mechanic struggled with taking off if not one of the pinch bolts, then both of them just like this in 2021. I had the ctrl arms replaced back then with cheap eBay knockoffs. They’re toast now so I got a good set from Urotuning of Meyle HDs. Would 2021 up to now be enough for them to seize this much? The car also sat from Jan 2023 to Sep 2024, just recently started being driven.
@@EJR20 They should be fine. I think pinch bolts will come out easily
@ I’m guessing it would take 10s of thousands of miles before they seize this much?
@ it wold take over 100000 km to seize like that
Hey Man - all is alumnium alloy! Be aware of heating all parts. The material may get senseriously damaged - There are other better ways to put it out
Which way is the better way?
@@mikes.garage You´ll find enough videos about it. Steal you can heat as it is nessessary but aluminium is other metal. With the time ist will lose its structure. You can't see it right after work now - but there might be consequences - as to say aluminium has a special brain after having heated it.
"Special brain" 😂🤣 How about aluminum cookware?
I can repeat my question. Which way is the better way?
@@hanszahl5706 I'm sorry man, but you should know, there is enough wrong videos about everything. I don't try to teach anybody of anything, I just show to people how I did it and how all of this looks like. Also I was studying how to mix and smelt metals and I know for sure that they do not have brain and after heating it up nothing is going to happen.
Thank you! I'm not heating it up even close to 200 degrees, that's why you shouldn't concern about it.
At 660 degrees aluminum is melting already.
Since a torque wrench is too big to fit the between the spring and the upper control arms. What did you use to torque them to the 50Nm + 90 degrees? A regular wrench can't torque them.
You can put Fixed Square on your torque wrench and it will fit www.amazon.ca/dp/B000NPR2BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_ZLp0FbPNV8A7M
Also this tool will work www.amazon.ca/dp/B07WVV2G18/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_GSp0Fb73QTQJC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Is the control arm threaded? Or does the bolt just go slide through and get tightened with the nut? Just about to tackle my wife’s Q5 drive axle and it says to loosen control arm to remove on passenger side… driver side I did a month ago and didn’t have to remove bolt
The bolt slides through and tightened with nut.
You do not put copper grease near aluminium fittings as there is a risk of concentration cell corrosion. Put ceramic grease in. It's easier to fit the arms to the rear mounts first and then put them in the hub carrier.
May I ask what is the reason for lowering the hub on an axle stand before tightening the bolts that go through the bushes?
Because bushings should be in a work position before you tight them. If you tight them like this, they will break in a hurry.
@@mikes.garage top advice. Cheers 👍🏻
May I ask what's the working position? I've watched a few audi control arm videos and nobody seems to be precise about this point. Is it simply lowering it all the way down?
Working position is when the car on a wheels standing on the ground.
So i have a question, i’ve watched a few of these videos. Why not just impact the bolt? Increased chance of breaking?
Yes, it can break.
Hi! Where i can buy this pinch bolt??? Thank You
EBay or dealership
Can i just cut bolt out? Have the same isue. Impossible to get it out.
You can try to remove it this way ua-cam.com/video/EpZd9aElA0U/v-deo.html
@@mikes.garage tnx for link. I am battling 3h and iit did move but in half way it stop and i demolish the thread on a nut side and no luck to find the nut in store. I will punch it tru with heat. Wish me luck.
Good luck!
Don’t use copper slip on Aluminum/steel… you will make it gall and seize and weld up for sure… aluminum or nickel anti seize is best or some ceramic… but NEVER copper!
Good call 👍
why is that? copper is closer to alu then nickle is on the galvanic chart, and copper is used all the time with aluminum fins on heat exchanges, there must be something else otherwise copper is the better choice.
Nice, this real mechanic!
Pls i have done this type of job till the alignment is not straight why
You have to get a alignment immediately right after thats why they usually recommend a person with a lining machine so it could be done right after
See how loose the cornering capabilities are how unstable this is in turning feel when you drive to wobbly to stay in proper lanes and stay stable in passing to other Lane's.
Best video. With all specification. .please more videos . I have a a4 b8 2010. 216.000 km
Thank you for watching!
THANKS A TON. I ALMOST MESSED UP.
Thanks
I torqued also and 6 months later the rear upper is loose in the hole & knocking .
my experience, jack up the entire suspension a little bit, in normal position, control arms bolt will loose easily.
Lucky you 🙂
wow. that's a lot of work. good job
Thank you for watching!
good video but copper pasta reacts with aluminum and damages it!
Thank you for watching! But this copper paste is not damages aluminum. Here read description: www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/permatex-copper-anti-seize-226-g-0383776p.html
Applications: Spark plug threads installed in aluminum, exhaust manifold bolts, engine bolts, oxygen sensors, knock sensors, thermostat housing bolts, fuel filter fittings and battery cable connections
@@mikes.garage 👍🏻👍🏻
@@mikes.garage seeing you posting a link from Canadian Tire (BTW, that's what I've bought too) there's only 1 conclusion, we live in the same county... Greetings from Langley BC!
@@RomanTrollanski o really, I going to move to BC next month. I live in Calgary now.
@@mikes.garage I've survived to New Brunswick for 2 years, I've literally bored the hell out of myself for another 2 years in Edmonton, I've been living in BC (bring cash) for quite some years now, I've seen all of Canada from Newfoundland to Victoria, BC it's still the best place to live.
Welcome to BC, do you like beer?
Are the control arms from the a5 the same on a s5 b9?
Yes, should be the same.
Did even pre load the bushes cowboy
Cut the head, in outer side put on good quality nut, then heat it + some smash to overall loosening, then you can just unscrew this bolt, nut will push it via thread.
It may work.
@@mikes.garage In Europe we have tons of audi's multilink and its common "trick".
ua-cam.com/video/7CocoD1wu7k/v-deo.html&ab_channel=marewel
Thank you for your comment i will try doing that to my A4
It took me all day literally and I still did not manage to get it out. Broke the nut, bent the bolt, now I don't know what to do.
Now only one way to drill it out.
Mikes thanks for sharing this video very useful... greedings from Costa Rica 🇨🇷
Thank you for watching!
So that suspension needs a little tightening to feel more comfortable while driving on the roadway's for safety and security of confident driver's
Amazing DIY video :)
I recently bought a 2009 A5 with 87k miles. I am aware the front shock need replace at time of purhase. Considering replacing those 2 control arms same time.
May i ask what mileage is your can and what symptoms you experiene with these bad bushing. Just dont want to replace the arms if they many years life left:)
Thank you! My had over 200 000 km. The symptoms was not clear control and the noise of torn rubber rubbing against each other when cornering. To check, it is best to lift the car so that the wheels are in weight and turn the wheels to one side and watch the state of the rubber bushings, if they have big cracks then it's time to replace them.
Muss mann die Spur dann einstellen?
Sorry I don't understand your question.
He means does it need an allignment after this
@@martbe95 The alignment after this is not necessarily
the worst thing I've done is try to separate that! drove me nuts! 😂👍
This is the true, stupid pinch bolt 😉
I can't get the pinch bolt out, just ordered new ones, and I'm about to drill it out.
Be careful with aluminum knuckle.
@@mikes.garage thanks. I'll heat it up and turn it, if it breaks... I'll put a few washers, put the nut back and thighten, hopefully I'll pull it out, if doesn't work... I'll stick a punch in and beat the shit out of it, if doesn't work... I'll take the whole thing down and drill the bolt out...
Good luck!
Soo satisfying to watch u work magic sir
Thank you for watching!
D;...why copper...use ceramic paste
A question for Audi engineers why do you not lubricate this screw on the assembly tape? Do you do it on purpose?
Thats a good question, from what i gather, grease or anti seize is a cost adder, both material and time, thats multiplied over 500,000+ units, so its rarely used. Parts seizes up after the warranty period, so the company does not care. The only places i have seen grease used from the factory are the in-chassis nuts such as rear upper damper bolts and the 4 sub frame bolts. if the sub frame bolts ever sized up and broke, it can pretty much write off the car. Since "engine out" work is expected im sure the dealers dont want to be responsible for that 🤣
You could put B6 and probably B7 in the title too as it looks identical to those.
Thank you, I will put it in a tags
@@mikes.garage yeah I only know that because I just replaced all the control arms on my b6 :)
@@mikes.garage and your video was very informative thank you!
@@TheFoyer13 Thank you for watching 😉
urrrrrghhhhhh gotta do this at the weekend, and after seeing this, I cannot be bothered hopefully i dont need torch to heat it up
Good luck with pinch bolt ! 🙂
Can you provide me with the link to where you got the control arms? I’m assuming it’s the same type as on an A4 b8?
Here is the link
www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/audi,2010,a5,3.2l+v6,2002707,suspension,control+arm,10401
But you still need to choose yours car year model and engine type. This was 2010 A5 with 3.2L engine.
@@mikes.garage yes thank you. Does that company have genuine and quality parts?
Amazon has genuine parts. TRW this is Genuine parts for Audi suspension.
I got TRW control arms with the Audi logo filed off from Autodoc. Paid about £23 each upper arm.
Great video! 👏🏻 Thank you!
Thank you for watching!
Great video, i still dont understand why audi puts 4 control arms on each side plus, the ball joint worse design ever.,
You are lucky for that pinch bolt. If it brakes you have to drill out.
I know, that's why I didn't force it.
Great DIY video. I assume you didn't use a torque wrench to tighten the upper control bolts, because there wasn't enough room to get a torque wrench in there. Thanks.
Thank you! I didn't at this time, but I torque it when I received my wrench ends www.amazon.ca/dp/B004QO9JOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_i_6P83E2ZDH6MHXXQ083B1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If you’re going to do this job, start spraying PB Blaster days in advance.
Hi do you recall the milage on the car at this point and what was the reason for changing them? What sort of symptoms or problems did it give for needing to replace them? Thank you 🙏
Hi, milage on this car was around 200 000 km. The reason for changeing was not clear control and the noise of torn rubber rubbing against each other when cornering. To check, it is best to lift the car so that the wheels are in weight and turn the wheels to one side and watch the state of the rubber bushings, if they have big cracks then it's time to replace them.
@@mikes.garage thank you for the reply! Very helpful. Look forward to seeing more of your videos.
@@fastlane2914 Thank you for watching!
Superb!
Do not heat the steering knuckle🚫🔥☝🏼
Shouldnt have used coller grease on aluminum
@@scapegoatjoe9939 This grease compatible with aluminum
Unfortunately somebody put the front control arm's bolt and nut on backwards, which means the whole assembly needs to come out.
Oh, no. I hope that pinch bolt not stuck, as it was replaced before?
made me laugh when you got all the spanners out as wedges great vid
Thank you for watching! 😉
Volkswagen - Das Auto!!
I had to drill out the bolts ..
I think, this is the fastest way
@@mikes.garagehad no other choise when bolts broke ..
Did you use new pinch bolts or re use the existing ones?
I used new pinch bolt.
hello
I want to know how to handle the front wheel tilt, which is too tilted. please tell me how ?
Hello, what do you mean by tilt wheel? Maybe you mean how to turn it?
@@mikes.garage I mean, the right front wheel is curved a lot from top inward
You probably have bend arms. Or maybe installed wrong arms. It has upper front and rear arm plus front wheel and all wheel drive car has different arms.
my car is audi a7, and i didn’t found any adjusting bolt, only arms
Is is looking bended?
very helpful thanks a million
Thank you for watching!
There's two there I see it now so clearly
Nice.
Awesome. Thank you.
Thank you for watching!
i got 2010 audi a5 3.2 quattro, need replace upper and lower control, got a quote today, parts and labor, $2140 i am Australia.
This is quite a bit expensive. Parts would cost you around 400-500$ Try to get another quote from different shop.
You can extract that in 10 minutes with a much more simpler system.
How?
That was luck. Using the hammer may bend the bolt. And a bent bolt won't fit through the hole.
My to cents: It is mandatory to pull this bolt instead of pushing it. Some people break off the head and use the thread to pull (multiple washers and nut screwed on, repeat several times with even more washers).
I just recently tryed to do this your way at work and broke the nut side as well. So I must to drilled it out at the end.
very helpfull video. thanks
Thank you for watching!
Those pinch bolts are a real pain in the ass, heat on aluminium can cause cracking I’ve had to replace those hub carriers before now, I dread doing these.
@@BRM101 You can drill them out.
👍🏻👍🏻
Now you just need an alignment because you took both control arms out at once.
After this kind of job it's better to do alignment anyway.
@@mikes.garage i build shit boxes
Easy peasy...
That Fuking pinch bolt is on so god dam tight; I couldn’t get it out!!! I don’t have a blow torch…
You can try to drill it out
Copper on rubber is a no no
This copper paste is compatible with aluminum
@@mikes.garage ok what about the rubber bushes?
I didn't apply it on rubber. And if I would even put some of it, it doesn't matter as this rubber, oil protection as inside of ball joints is grease.
good video but the way you bolted the tire back ruined it...
😂🤣 Thank you for watching. This is the way I do, never any problems )
i need your help please respond asap i have a issue with my car
What kind of help do you need? You should ask already, and maybe get the answer back )
Same as pinch bolt , upper bolts should be always replaced for new .
Bei eBay gibt es einen guten Abzieher und er ist günstig.
Разве можно в алюминиевом кулаке использовать медную пасту?
@@ДжоБабах-ы1э Можно!
My bro did 2 audis, i attempted mine... Disastrous, both sides upper control arm bolts seized and busted. I bought used spindles, brand new upper and lower control arm kits, new wheel bearings and hubs. Now i just unbolt from the subframe side and put all new. This design holds the road good, but its a bitch to fix!
6:17 when mine broke... not to tight is my advise. Damage $350 :)
Your knuckle broke? With 40 Nm?
@@mikes.garage yes, previous owner (garage) replaced control arms, so it was already damaged. When i lowered my car and torqued it, it broke (at 40nm), so had to replace the whole spindle.
Looks like started in the morning, then finished next in the morning.........
Not that bad 😂
Great video I liked this production and having done this job I can appreciate what a bitch it can be
That pinch bolt can be a nightmare
your not wrong , its because its a steel bolt in an aluminium housing , they always sieze up
@@marktaylor6359 oh really? I wasn't aware that was the reason. Thanks. German cars must be the one most annoying cars to do work on. I've an Audi A4 I can attest to that 😂
It was a nightmare 😣
🌴👍🌴
Had 4 upper control arms replaced yesterday ........$2200 parts and labor..........
You paid a lot. How about lower control arms?
WHATTT
that’s so much, did you have them gold plated or something? Nice video btw, the pinch bolt was annoying but at least it didn’t snap!
Thank you for watching!
J'ai chauffé la vis l'aluminium ne s'est pas déformé j'ai fait 150000km depuis au un jeu dans la direction
so you destroyed now the steel grade because you used fire
No, I removed pinch bolt.
😨
Zu hot
What a dumb upper control arm design lol
Video should be renamed. " how to remove the poxy audi pinch pin."..
Lots of swearing. Hitting heating swearing. Screaming. Sparyomg swearing some more
😂🤣
Terrible job