I'm a retired Occupational Therapist (on the wrong side of 70 yrs), just getting back into various hobbies that interested me when I was a youngster, and know little about electrical/electronic testing of equipment. I'm very glad I subscribed to your fascinating channel and see the scientific approach you follow in all your tests. I think for anyone wanting to get really useful, accurate and practical information about these products, your channel is a "must subscribe" situation. You have manufactured a unique series ot test equipment, and follow a specific procedure for testing all the products. It's quite an eye opener, as I'm aware of all the effort that goes into this type of video production. Thanks for all your skill in videography, editing and the knowledge that you so freely share with such enthusiasm.
One day I hope to retire as well. For now I'm still having too much fun. I'm glad you are enjoying the videos. It's been a learning experience for me. Most of the brands I had never heard of.
7:39 looks like the mystery is solved when u have that one that was damaged... that had a broken SMD Inductor also thanks too utube for connecting the dots recommending this vid
I had that same issue with my EEVBlog BM235 where the jack was off center. However a lot more than your video. It was basically covered by the case on one side. Required a lot of force to plug the probes in. Seeing your video explains how that happened during assembly! Ended up getting a deal on a 87V on eBay.
Well, that was interesting to watch. Being a non electric person I did not understand a lot of the testing you did but was good to see that it was passing them. Thank you for your time and effort for doing this.
The "Interference" you indicated, I have more information on that! Dave Jones reviewed a "bad" unit sent in by an owner of this meter. That very inductor part was broken! Good review; above and beyond what most do -- great job! BTW, for 'a few dollars more', you can get the BM257S, with better specs and more features.
I bought one of these from Dave at end of Jan 2018. Looking at mine just now, the L3 part has been moved down and to the left instead of sitting right next to L2. Mine doesn't have any part of the screw post cut away as I guess with the component moved there is no physical interference anymore.
Thanks for these in-depth reviews. Based on these, while I like the BM235, it lacks a scale display and AC/DC are combined. So, I decided on the BM257s and I am very happy with it. My line of work and my hobby (both dealing with arcade games/pinball), won't have me sending 20KV into the meter, but it is nice knowing that the Brymens are solid and accurate. It's fast enough to detect fluctuating 5VDC voltage from a game's power supply, identifying its mystery problem where my old meter showed steady voltage. You're helping a lot of people make educated decisions when buying these tools. Thanks!
This is incredible work you're doing. This is far and away some of the most rigorous electrical testing I have seen done on multimeters. I'm really glad that I stumbled on your channel. BTW, if you ever want some fodder for your transient generator, I have a handful of junky meters I could send you. Maybe you're aiming to look only at "real" meters, but mine are mostly off-brand hardware store buys and a couple "Ebay Specials," seeing as I'm actually still using my good meters.
Thanks. I'm glad you are enjoying them. I think the biggest reasons you don't see more testing on meters is cost and time. When you watch this video, realize the transient generators and high voltage probes are all home made. Price out a real generator. Not to mention the hazards if someone went with a purchased unit. Then there is the cost of the meters. But the worst part is the time. If you look at the clock on the transient generator, you can see how long these tests take to run. I do it out of my own interest. I appreciate your offer to provide some meters for testing. I have ran all sorts of meters. That analog meter was $15 and was as off brand as they come.
Keep up the good work, your tests/evaluations are a fabulous independent resource. I have received one of these BM235's as a gift and have enjoyed using and your tests provide another level of confidence in it.
Im amazed by the 235, voltages that it should never see in a lifetime it coped :-D Other than physically throwing the generator at it, the 235 is bullet proof. Yes i think your lighting system in the uni-t is really clever, never need to think about seeing the display again :-D.
Sold me. Just bought the BM235 straight from Bryman for £82. Unusual to find a manufacturer that is cheaper at selling their own stuff than anyone else. Even ebay doesn't come close.
Nice review, I always wondered if it would pass you transient generator testing. Its good to see it passed. I also really like this meter, it's become one of my favorites. One feature not mentioned is the 235 will read ACV variable frequency drives, it has a mode selector specifically for this in the AC voltage reading. Not a common thing to run across in a home hobby, but I did recently run across something I was repairing and it was the only meter to take an accurate reading. I personally never thought I would use it, but It worked good and I was glad I had it. The low pass filter is a nice feature that can be used to discharge caps and get more accurate readings in some situations when taking a reading on a variable frequency drive or composite sine waves created by inverters. The auto mode works good detecting AC or DC (also the low pass filter mode) but you loose resolution when using the auto mode. I also wish it read higher frequencies and had the ability to read duty cycle. Besides that it's a great meter. P.S. It did survive the electric ⚡️ fly swatter test at 2.3KV DC.
Thank you very much for your review. I have a Fluke 12, two Fluke 117's (home and work) but wanted a meter that did uA for electronics. The easy choice was a 87V but that would take a bite out of my fun money. I homed in on the BM235 as a reasonable unit for the money. That other Brymen sure looked interesting but I couldn't find it in USA. Maybe if I had looked a bit harder. Anyway, you made me feel like buying one is a good choice for my current level of need and experience. Thank you again.
Only half way through the video but wanted to mention the non-pop parts have to do with three different models being used for these PCB's. You will see 231,233,235 with pads next to it in each PCB. And they drop solder in what the one is populated for. I don't have the cutout on the back screw post, this might also be because they changed the components in version two (white box) and some other slight changes to stop the LCD light sound on some of the original versions. The new components might be thicker and they had to cut the post to adapt to this thicker parts? Just my guess.
Hey Scott. I almost called you out on the difference between a cap and a bead. lol. As I mentioned, the two extra clamps are not routed. The question then is if you have the other models and have looked at how they are populated. Sounds like you have. I am interested in knowing then which version of the meter is using the MOVs? I measured the stack up for the case and PCB as well as took some pictures of mine. These are up on the EEVBLOG site if you want to have a look.We need to revamp the flyswatter test. Maybe parallel / series a few hundred of them! lol.
Sorry, I don't have the other meters, this is my first Brymen. It's just a guess like the cheaper flukes are the same PCB for 4 or 6 different meters just with missing parts. AVE did a tear down on one and I noticed it was the same as others flukes but missing a DAC and IC for RMS, also the temp reading and other features worked but didn't have a button pad or a whole for the button on the front of the case. I just did a google image search for thenother models to do side by side of the PCB boards. I own two fly swatter, so we have three. Might be easier to remove flyback circuits from old tube televisions. Or I have a box of ignition coils with about 25 of them, lol.
Ok, I thought with you pointing out that the non-pop parts have to do with the different models, that you knew the details about the MOVs that were a no pop on the 235. At 2.5KV DC, you could use it to charge a bank like I did with the cap when I took out the UT90A. I have not had mine apart to measure the size of the filter cap.
LOL! Imagine calling up UNI-T and saying, please send me one of your top of the line meters so I can benchmark it (using a potentially destructive test) against your competitors, make a public video about it and store the data on-line so anyone can see it.
@@mattjmwmatt I get offers like this from distributors but really have no interest in being in their back pocket. I am not putting these videos up as a source of income. There are no ads and I don't ask for handouts. I test the meters that I am interested in seeing how they perform.
44:27 continuity test: looks just as fast as on the BM789 that I bought. For me, this is the main aspect in which Brymen multimeters stand out about the rest. Sluggish continuity on cheaper multimeters was a big source of frustration for me.
Hi Joe.An excellent video. I am interested in the over-voltage testing of multimeters to show compliance with the Cat standards. IEC61010-1 lists the over-voltage test limits required depending on the maximum working voltage being measured. So for example if a meter is marked as 600V Cat III then it must be able to tolerate 3.4kV for 60 seconds. The front end protection on most meters claiming a Cat level are very similar to the the Brymen circuit that you have sketched out in the video. Whilst I can see how the circuit protects against short duration surges I cannot see how it is designed to protect against longer duration over-voltages. If one imagines that a 3.4kV over-voltage appears across the meter input then the PTC will heat up until it drops most of the voltage, will it not then breakdown with about 1.4kV across it resulting in a large power dissipation in the first 1k resistor? Is this 1k resistor a fusible type that is designed to go open circuit in such situations? I have not seen any of these over-voltage tests presented online, it would be interesting to see how various meters perform.
I have heard of people attempting to directly measure the output of a MOT with their handheld. You need to take a step back and just think about what you are suggesting. Does this even make sense to you? I would read how they define Working Voltage. Make sure you read Note 1. Maybe Annex E. I am not sure where the 60 seconds came from. Maybe you could provide the sections you are referring to.
I think I have misunderstood the standard. I was looking at the test voltages in Annex K and thinking that these were differential voltages across the input of the meter. I think that these are actually a test of the insulation and therefore not a differential test. The 60 seconds is mentioned in K.1.3.1 & Table K.8 That being the case, what is the purpose of the PTC in the protection circuit? It is never going to respond quickly enough to transients. The other thing that I don't understand is how some meters manage such impressive ACV bandwidth. I have a Fluke 287 here which is almost flat to 1MHz! How is this possible when the input resistance is a minimum of 10M? Even a few pF will result in a low cut-off. The front end doesn't appear to be compensated like scope inputs and putting a high voltage cap across the 10M seems like a bad idea.
I can't really comment on the whys of meter designs. 61010 is a safety standard and if we assume the meter is not required to survive then why have a PTC or anything else as long as it does not make an unsafe condition? Of course if your products are always being returned from being damaged, as a supplier maybe you need to address it? In the end, I assume if a company certifies and to what standards, how much protection they add, it all boils down to how to make money. If you watched the video I made where I look at making the UT61E more robust, you may find your answer. If not: ua-cam.com/video/cMutvk_6xhY/v-deo.html
Adding slots to a circuit board is a fairly common practice. Searching for creepage and clearances. I'm not sure what plastic you are referring to. It's pretty common to have plastic that will fit inside these slots as well.
Hey Joe, you mention at 17:25 that the UT61E has an adapted backlight. Did you add that because I can't find a UT61E on Amazon that has a backlight? Thanks!
There's a video showing that modification to the meter. Go the main page and type UT61E in the search, or try backlight. YT has a some features that if you take the time to learn them, will save you time.
@@joesmith-je3tq Yes, I did see that after I posted my question. Sorry. Do you know if Uni-T has a similar multimeter that includes a built-in backlight? I looked at their website, but I have no clue as to what's compatible with the UT61E.
@@joesmith-je3tq Oh no, not at all. I ordered the 210E right after you posted your recommendation. But I would like to have a better multimeter as well. Something that will read milliamps, unlike my crappy $12 Craftsman. :)
@@idealynx The 210E will read down into the mA. I've measured quiescent currents on cars below 10mA with it, no problems at all. For more generalized meters, I don't normally make recommendations. There are too many variable.
Thanks for very informative videos and this in particular. At this point I can say I'm leaning toward these Brymen, the BM 235 or the more advanced BM269s. One think I don't understand: what difference is there between the EEVblog rebranded and "regular" one? Can one tell me about the battery life of the Brymen 235 and the BM269s?
I went to Brymen's website and do not see a BM26 series. For battery life, you may want to just download and check the manuals. I am not sure I have ever looked at the current draw and cutout voltage for any meter. The physical difference as far as I know for the BM235 is the color and marking.
That's there to measure small weights. Asking specifics would be like asking what do I use a volt meter for. I did make a video where I used it as part of a small dynamometer. It's pretty fast and has an RS-232 port on it.
To be clear, I have no interest in RC toys but I did post about the dyno as I was constructing it on a RC site. You may find it here. www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forums/topic/81512-self-built-rc-dyno/?page=6
Wow, those are some impressive analyses. Nice looking setup as well. I didn't read every post in the thread, so forgive me if this was discussed already, but it would be interesting to do some comparisons between similarly sized/spec'd brushed vs. brushless motors.
Glad you enjoyed looking at them. At least it gives you an idea of what not to do. I had several people contacting claiming to be some big motor suppliers and such asking about the dyno. I just kept explaining that I didn't own any RC toys and this was just a model for a larger dyno. I'm not sure why but people had a hard time believing I was not some sort of RC race guru. The absorber will handle about 100 Watts. There is a ground shaft to align everything when installing a motor. With the ceramic bearings, I could do pulls well above 20K RPM with it but proper alignment was very important!
Hey Joe, appreciate all the work you've put into this. I'm trying to access your Google spreadsheet for your data on the meters, but it looks like the link isn't working any more?
Thanks for your incredibly detailed video. It was a fascinating watch. Incredible it survived 10kV. Another nice feature of the BM235 that I've noticed my BM257s can't is the ability to show the forward voltage and light a white/blue LED.
Some of the poorly designed ones fail the ESD or the AC line test and never even make it to the this part of the test. There are not that many meters that make it past 6KV. This is one of the more robust meters I have looked at. Brymen did a good job with it. I never understood the need to light up an LED with a meter. Personally I would want a handheld that could measure a HV diode but I don't see that happening. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Hi Joe! Thank you so much for this very detailed review. Currently I own two Fluke's, the 117 and the 17B+, but when I bought those (specially the 117) I didn't knew better, and I work more with analog electronics, so, I miss some features like mA on the 117 and true RMS on the 17B+. So, I was thinking about trading both for other units on the same price range (around $100 to $150 each). Do you recommend the BM235 or do you have any better suggestion for me? Thanks!
The BM235 is a great little general purpose meter. And while it's very robust, it lacks many things I use a meter for. My advice is download and read the manual. If you have questions, ask before you buy.
i was hoping you would test that meter. I like my brymen 829 as well. doesn't have the resolution that yours does but I don't need that. Great video as always I enjoy your videos.
my first 829 was from tme and it had an issue so i sent it back. after 9 months of trying to get answers i finally just recieved a refund. Good pricing there but as far as customer service they need alot of help.
I just wrote Brymen direct when I planned on running the 869s. They had the best communications of any of the companies I contacted. Mine came from TME as well. No problems at all. Very fast shipping and a good price as you mention.
yes i agree they were great to deal with, they even helped me yell at TME because they stopped responding to me. Eventually I just sent the same email to every contact on TME website until they just gave me some story about my meter being damaged in shipping and refunded me. I just didn't have a good experience with TME . I considered Greenlee(looks like same meter( but the price was much higher.
Hey Joe, great video! Thanks for posting it. I'm trying to decide on a good prosumer-level automotive multimeter for home use. What do you recommend? Also, where can I get the chart that shows your test results for the various DMMs? Thanks!
Most people I know working in auto repair have the Modis. I've looked at a few simple DMMs for automotive. Those videos are new enough that the link for the data should be in the description. Just go to the main page and select the Motorcycle playlist. There are three different videos for automotive meters shown. You would need to watch and decide if one of them suits your needs.
@@joesmith-je3tq Ok will do. BTW, do you think that I would be better off getting a general-purpose multimeter? I know you really like the Brymen BM869. Of course, a Greenlee-compatible model might be easier to find in the U.S.
@@idealynx I would have no idea of what problem you are having, what features you need..... Only that you want some thing for automotive. The Modis seem to be the tool of choice. Maybe the only tool?
@@joesmith-je3tq Sorry, Joe. I should have provided you with more detail. Right now, I'm trying to track down a parasitic battery drain on a 2019 Mazda 3, but since the only multimeter I own is a cheap Craftsman model I was thinking about getting a more general-purpose multimeter that I could use for the problem at hand, as well as other Harry Homeowner things that may arise. :) BTW, I'm really digging your multi-part review of the 121GW.
@@idealynx That's what you should have asked. It's VERY rare I will offer any advice when it comes to meters but in this one case, I use the UNI-T UT210E clamp meter just for this purpose. Costs about $30. Will last about a year or two if you are careful with it. Maybe longer. Really a crap meter but does this one job well. Of course, that doesn't mean it will fix your car and you still need to understand how to use the tool. Good luck
Thanks for the video. Was thinking about getting into ardiuno projects, would you recommend this meter, or is there another that would be better for the same price. I have seen it on amazon.ca for about 145.00 CAD.
Sorry but I can't make recommendations as I really have no idea what your needs are. I would read the manual for it and see if it has the features and accuracy you need. If you have a specific question about the meter, you may want to set up an account on EEVBLOG and post it there. I'm sure Dave and others would be more than happy to help you out.
@@joesmith-je3tq I assume you made that "resistance box" or whatever its called. Can we buy those somewhere or do you have tutorial links? How difficult to build? Thanks Joe! Oh btw I ordered an EEVblog BM235 should be here tomorrow, still going to buy a fluke but thanks to you not an 87V & its difficult to choose a fluke for hobbyists.
@@Metalhead-4life I made a video about this box. ua-cam.com/video/PeQpyn3926k/v-deo.html I have added a few features since then including a K-type TC simulator, current source and HV ACDC waveform. Someone had asked me about the hardware I used and how much error it would contribute. That comment is pinned on this video: ua-cam.com/video/X28bwdTBW8g/v-deo.html&lc=Ugz_uMkETNXRhxlgG2x4AaABAg
Hi, i enjoyed your video. I just received my EEVBlog 235 meter. You mentioned that the continuity buzzer was not very loud. I found mine was also very low volume until i hit the range button and the volume got very loud. I don't know if thats a new feature of the D firmware that mine has or is just a undocumented feature, but thought i would mention it.
When i tried the continuity test I could just barely hear the tone but the back light flashed on and off, so pushed the range button, (I think), i was also pushing the select button trying to figure things out. The next time i tried it, it was nice and loud with the backlight still flashing. Since then, I've tried to turn it back down again and i cant figure out how to do it, so maybe Dave can explain it. Even my wife a daughter noticed the volume come up.
It has never been realigned since I have owned it. For the calibration, you can see even after all of the testing I performed on it, there was no effect. I later did a video were I looked at the temperature feature of this meter compared with others.
01:30 : One thing I fail to understand is that the protection circuit you're demonstrating here appears to be common in other meters that you've showcased as well yet it's only in this case that it is located in a separate board and, I don't see why every manufacturer doesn't just make this part as a separate piece that is a common for each entire range of meters. Even better, it could be sourced as an individual part from an OEM, just like it is done with LCDs. I can understand that the economies of scale may dictate a single board instead of two or more and the extra costs these entail. I can't understand it, however, when this circuit (or what could be a part of it) maybe a safety liability. 06:05 - 06:10 : Do these clamps need to be close to the ICs they're protecting or can they be shifted to the input protection circuit? Is the track lead inductance a determining factor in their placement? 06:52 - 07:02 : I bet this can be easily achieved using a template during hand assembly. Does the tinned track on the back of the mini board have to be created by hand or are there robots that can do the tinning? It doesn't look as if it's been done by hand but I really can't tell.
Many choices will not make sense if you are not a EE and not a designer. Business decisions may not make a lot of sense to someone who doesn't work in the industry as well.
I can't say I know much about the business model of such specialised companies - it's a complete mystery to me and I'm quite happy with it staying that way - but I suspect the clientele of companies such as Fluke, Gossen, Tektronix etc. is predominantly comprised of professionals and not hobbyists. Probably every aspect of designing such instruments is a specialised field even among EE professionals - as with most fields of enterprise nowadays. In addition, there are the secrets of the trade to compound what is already a complicated enough matter to those on the outside. I am certainly not expecting any of these active professional to appear out of the blue and start answering design questions regarding a specific model in a public forum - I would expect that might be quite contrary to their contractual obligations or professional ethics. By posting questions or points on aspects that tickle my interest I'm hoping to generate a discussion or invite qualified responses from whoever might share a similar interest or has something to add that might aid understanding. Everyone's level of expertise is quite different of course.
You must realize this is a small channel and very few people leave comments. It you are looking to have a discussion, I would suggest you join some of the EE forums. You will get a lot more feedback them than you will find here.
The attached link is where I typically post about the handheld meter testing. Feel free to join and ask your questions. www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hear-kitty-kitty-kitty-nope-not-that-kind-of-cat/
a-ha! Thanks for the link - I hadn't realised you had a dedicated topic on EEVblog. I don't frequent EEVblog much but maybe I should. I'll definitely check the topic you''ve created. I've been hopping around your videos on different meters but haven't had the patience to go through one of your longer series on a single meter yet. The reason is probably that I'm interested primarily in certain tests such as ESD,, RMS measurement bandwidth, etc. more than others (e.g. functional testing). Now, if I had my eyes set on a particular meter, it would be a different story of course. What has impressed me watching your videos, however, is that there is no single meter you've reviewed that is without drawbacks - regardless of price. It's more that some are better than others in certain respects. As I've only found your channel, the wealth of information is quite overwhelming and I ought to pace myself. I'm interested in the capabilities some of the more advanced meters you're testing have to offer especially with some which could be used as bench top replacements. I can't bring myself to fork out the cash one of these cost - I just don't really need these capabilities, I just find them interesting. Then again you never know what I might find on ebay in a couple of years. In any case, it's good to have some idea of what lies under the bonnet. I suppose if I ever decide to go for one of those, I'll be buying it with my eyes open. I know very little about the workings of digital meters and these videos have certainly widened my perspective on their limitations. But you're right in that the yt channels are not the proper place to have discussions anyway - the format is not ideal for this use for a start.
Now that is what you call a meter being tested! Like a man! No messing about making sure your muff doesn't have a stray spiders leg before filming!I'd love to see you review a car! 😀Subfukinscribed! Lol 💪👊
Love the review. The crooked terminal was a bit anal! No function was impaired. Ps it's only $130 AUD. Geez for that I would buy 20 of these compared to others.
Having the terminal stressed every time the leads are installed, not to mention having to work the loads a bit to get them inserted is not a detail I would gloss over. There are many reviews that are far less detailed. I suggest you look for those.
I wasn't criticizing. I was trying to say for a cheap meter, the crooked terminal is not really big problem in the scope of things:) Keep up the good work.
If it caused the solder joint to fracture, the connector to fail prematurely or make it difficult to insert the test leads, I would say it's a problem. I don't like the fact they notched the plastic as well. Again, you personally may not care about this level of detail but this channel may not be for you.
Why Dave Jones did not make a review of his selling meter? I just want him to criticise small details like he did with other brands. But I see he's a little bastard, he only did some unboxing, repairs and a lot of marketing...
It's possible too that he views it as a conflict of interest and is looking for impartial reviews from others. That's fine as well. I don't mind digging in and I'm sure others don't as well.
@@joesmith-je3tq I think it would be fair to do a critical review+teardown of his meters also. He might win a few more buyers and extra sympathy from all of us for being honest and fair..
haha just bcoz a little crazy Australian guy trying to survive and sells some rebranded shitty multimeters, they aren't better as any other Chinese noname brand.
@@joesmith-je3tq Forking A. If you spout some smack prove it with data. I have watched the whole video and really appreciate that you have done some VERY extensive testing. And what I got from the video was "This is an Acceptable meter for the price point". Thank you for the effort you expended in getting the information out. (Now I'm out to go buy one). Oh and subscribed, liked, and clicked the bell.
I'm a retired Occupational Therapist (on the wrong side of 70 yrs), just getting back into various hobbies that interested me when I was a youngster, and know little about electrical/electronic testing of equipment. I'm very glad I subscribed to your fascinating channel and see the scientific approach you follow in all your tests. I think for anyone wanting to get really useful, accurate and practical information about these products, your channel is a "must subscribe" situation. You have manufactured a unique series ot test equipment, and follow a specific procedure for testing all the products. It's quite an eye opener, as I'm aware of all the effort that goes into this type of video production. Thanks for all your skill in videography, editing and the knowledge that you so freely share with such enthusiasm.
One day I hope to retire as well. For now I'm still having too much fun. I'm glad you are enjoying the videos. It's been a learning experience for me. Most of the brands I had never heard of.
Thanks for running those tests, it survived well.
No problem. Thanks for hosting the EEVBLOG site.
@@danuber5558 Lmao
7:39 looks like the mystery is solved when u have that one that was damaged... that had a broken SMD Inductor also thanks too utube for connecting the dots recommending this vid
I had that same issue with my EEVBlog BM235 where the jack was off center. However a lot more than your video. It was basically covered by the case on one side. Required a lot of force to plug the probes in. Seeing your video explains how that happened during assembly!
Ended up getting a deal on a 87V on eBay.
The spreadsheet may be found at: www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hear-kitty-kitty-kitty-nope-not-that-kind-of-cat/
Amazing amount of effort gone into your tests. Very thorough!
Well, that was interesting to watch. Being a non electric person I did not understand a lot of the testing you did but was good to see that it was passing them. Thank you for your time and effort for doing this.
The "Interference" you indicated, I have more information on that! Dave Jones reviewed a "bad" unit sent in by an owner of this meter. That very inductor part was broken! Good review; above and beyond what most do -- great job! BTW, for 'a few dollars more', you can get the BM257S, with better specs and more features.
Saw that repair video he made. Sure looks like this was Brymen's correction for it.
I bought one of these from Dave at end of Jan 2018. Looking at mine just now, the L3 part has been moved down and to the left instead of sitting right next to L2. Mine doesn't have any part of the screw post cut away as I guess with the component moved there is no physical interference anymore.
Thanks for these in-depth reviews. Based on these, while I like the BM235, it lacks a scale display and AC/DC are combined. So, I decided on the BM257s and I am very happy with it. My line of work and my hobby (both dealing with arcade games/pinball), won't have me sending 20KV into the meter, but it is nice knowing that the Brymens are solid and accurate. It's fast enough to detect fluctuating 5VDC voltage from a game's power supply, identifying its mystery problem where my old meter showed steady voltage.
You're helping a lot of people make educated decisions when buying these tools. Thanks!
What sort of BEMF can you get from an unclamped pinball solenoid?
@@joesmith-je3tq Good question, will have to see..
@@brianthompson1138 Time for the HV probe and scope, not the meter... lol.
This is incredible work you're doing. This is far and away some of the most rigorous electrical testing I have seen done on multimeters. I'm really glad that I stumbled on your channel.
BTW, if you ever want some fodder for your transient generator, I have a handful of junky meters I could send you. Maybe you're aiming to look only at "real" meters, but mine are mostly off-brand hardware store buys and a couple "Ebay Specials," seeing as I'm actually still using my good meters.
Thanks. I'm glad you are enjoying them. I think the biggest reasons you don't see more testing on meters is cost and time. When you watch this video, realize the transient generators and high voltage probes are all home made. Price out a real generator. Not to mention the hazards if someone went with a purchased unit. Then there is the cost of the meters. But the worst part is the time. If you look at the clock on the transient generator, you can see how long these tests take to run. I do it out of my own interest. I appreciate your offer to provide some meters for testing. I have ran all sorts of meters. That analog meter was $15 and was as off brand as they come.
Keep up the good work, your tests/evaluations are a fabulous independent resource. I have received one of these BM235's as a gift and have enjoyed using and your tests provide another level of confidence in it.
Nice work! My Brymen 869s has become my favorite meter as well.
Thanks for a very comprehensive review. You are the Meter Man!
Im amazed by the 235, voltages that it should never see in a lifetime it coped :-D
Other than physically throwing the generator at it, the 235 is bullet proof.
Yes i think your lighting system in the uni-t is really clever, never need to think about seeing the display again :-D.
LOL!! The case on that generator is 1/4" thick plate aluminum. Throwing it at any meter would cause some damage!
Sold me. Just bought the BM235 straight from Bryman for £82. Unusual to find a manufacturer that is cheaper at selling their own stuff than anyone else. Even ebay doesn't come close.
Thank you for the test. It helped me made up my mind what DMM to buy.
No problem. Glad you found it useful.
Nice review, I always wondered if it would pass you transient generator testing. Its good to see it passed. I also really like this meter, it's become one of my favorites.
One feature not mentioned is the 235 will read ACV variable frequency drives, it has a mode selector specifically for this in the AC voltage reading. Not a common thing to run across in a home hobby, but I did recently run across something I was repairing and it was the only meter to take an accurate reading. I personally never thought I would use it, but It worked good and I was glad I had it.
The low pass filter is a nice feature that can be used to discharge caps and get more accurate readings in some situations when taking a reading on a variable frequency drive or composite sine waves created by inverters.
The auto mode works good detecting AC or DC (also the low pass filter mode) but you loose resolution when using the auto mode.
I also wish it read higher frequencies and had the ability to read duty cycle. Besides that it's a great meter.
P.S. It did survive the electric ⚡️ fly swatter test at 2.3KV DC.
Thank you very much for your review. I have a Fluke 12, two Fluke 117's (home and work) but wanted a meter that did uA for electronics. The easy choice was a 87V but that would take a bite out of my fun money. I homed in on the BM235 as a reasonable unit for the money. That other Brymen sure looked interesting but I couldn't find it in USA. Maybe if I had looked a bit harder. Anyway, you made me feel like buying one is a good choice for my current level of need and experience. Thank you again.
Only half way through the video but wanted to mention the non-pop parts have to do with three different models being used for these PCB's. You will see 231,233,235 with pads next to it in each PCB. And they drop solder in what the one is populated for. I don't have the cutout on the back screw post, this might also be because they changed the components in version two (white box) and some other slight changes to stop the LCD light sound on some of the original versions. The new components might be thicker and they had to cut the post to adapt to this thicker parts? Just my guess.
Hey Scott. I almost called you out on the difference between a cap and a bead. lol. As I mentioned, the two extra clamps are not routed. The question then is if you have the other models and have looked at how they are populated. Sounds like you have. I am interested in knowing then which version of the meter is using the MOVs? I measured the stack up for the case and PCB as well as took some pictures of mine. These are up on the EEVBLOG site if you want to have a look.We need to revamp the flyswatter test. Maybe parallel / series a few hundred of them! lol.
Sorry, I don't have the other meters, this is my first Brymen. It's just a guess like the cheaper flukes are the same PCB for 4 or 6 different meters just with missing parts. AVE did a tear down on one and I noticed it was the same as others flukes but missing a DAC and IC for RMS, also the temp reading and other features worked but didn't have a button pad or a whole for the button on the front of the case. I just did a google image search for thenother models to do side by side of the PCB boards.
I own two fly swatter, so we have three. Might be easier to remove flyback circuits from old tube televisions. Or I have a box of ignition coils with about 25 of them, lol.
Ok, I thought with you pointing out that the non-pop parts have to do with the different models, that you knew the details about the MOVs that were a no pop on the 235. At 2.5KV DC, you could use it to charge a bank like I did with the cap when I took out the UT90A. I have not had mine apart to measure the size of the filter cap.
You should get sponsor so we can test stuff like new Siglent 3045 etc... :)
Nice work!
LOL! Imagine calling up UNI-T and saying, please send me one of your top of the line meters so I can benchmark it (using a potentially destructive test) against your competitors, make a public video about it and store the data on-line so anyone can see it.
Just like them pore FLUK 87 lol
@@joesmith-je3tq uni-t definitely wouldn't, but maybe an online electronics seller would.
@@mattjmwmatt I get offers like this from distributors but really have no interest in being in their back pocket. I am not putting these videos up as a source of income. There are no ads and I don't ask for handouts. I test the meters that I am interested in seeing how they perform.
that would be a very fair video.
I'd have settled for your not depriving us the removal of the unit's rubber case.
Nice, you get a brand new meter and have to repair it before even using it.
44:27 continuity test: looks just as fast as on the BM789 that I bought. For me, this is the main aspect in which Brymen multimeters stand out about the rest. Sluggish continuity on cheaper multimeters was a big source of frustration for me.
The measured data I collected is available for free on-line. The BM235 was much slower.
Another great video, thank you. I have a Bryman 867s and love it.
That thing is a tank for it's size and price.
I haven't been this impressed since I got out of the shower dripping wet 😎 Really OUTSTANDING VIDEO. Much appreciated. Thank you 👍😁
Wow. Such in depth work. Cool stuff.
Hi Joe.An excellent video.
I am interested in the over-voltage testing of multimeters to show compliance with the Cat standards. IEC61010-1 lists the over-voltage test limits required depending on the maximum working voltage being measured. So for example if a meter is marked as 600V Cat III then it must be able to tolerate 3.4kV for 60 seconds.
The front end protection on most meters claiming a Cat level are very similar to the the Brymen circuit that you have sketched out in the video. Whilst I can see how the circuit protects against short duration surges I cannot see how it is designed to protect against longer duration over-voltages.
If one imagines that a 3.4kV over-voltage appears across the meter input then the PTC will heat up until it drops most of the voltage, will it not then breakdown with about 1.4kV across it resulting in a large power dissipation in the first 1k resistor? Is this 1k resistor a fusible type that is designed to go open circuit in such situations?
I have not seen any of these over-voltage tests presented online, it would be interesting to see how various meters perform.
I have heard of people attempting to directly measure the output of a MOT with their handheld. You need to take a step back and just think about what you are suggesting. Does this even make sense to you? I would read how they define Working Voltage. Make sure you read Note 1. Maybe Annex E. I am not sure where the 60 seconds came from. Maybe you could provide the sections you are referring to.
I think I have misunderstood the standard. I was looking at the test voltages in Annex K and thinking that these were differential voltages across the input of the meter. I think that these are actually a test of the insulation and therefore not a differential test.
The 60 seconds is mentioned in K.1.3.1 & Table K.8
That being the case, what is the purpose of the PTC in the protection circuit? It is never going to respond quickly enough to transients.
The other thing that I don't understand is how some meters manage such impressive ACV bandwidth. I have a Fluke 287 here which is almost flat to 1MHz! How is this possible when the input resistance is a minimum of 10M? Even a few pF will result in a low cut-off. The front end doesn't appear to be compensated like scope inputs and putting a high voltage cap across the 10M seems like a bad idea.
I can't really comment on the whys of meter designs. 61010 is a safety standard and if we assume the meter is not required to survive then why have a PTC or anything else as long as it does not make an unsafe condition? Of course if your products are always being returned from being damaged, as a supplier maybe you need to address it? In the end, I assume if a company certifies and to what standards, how much protection they add, it all boils down to how to make money.
If you watched the video I made where I look at making the UT61E more robust, you may find your answer. If not:
ua-cam.com/video/cMutvk_6xhY/v-deo.html
It seems to be a quite good dmm for the money.
Yes it is.
Why does it need an air-gap around the connectors? Isn't the plastic a better insulator than air anyway?
Adding slots to a circuit board is a fairly common practice. Searching for creepage and clearances. I'm not sure what plastic you are referring to. It's pretty common to have plastic that will fit inside these slots as well.
Thanks
You didn’t compare the Loz feature
Did you ? Thanks
Compare it how?
Hey Joe, you mention at 17:25 that the UT61E has an adapted backlight. Did you add that because I can't find a UT61E on Amazon that has a backlight? Thanks!
There's a video showing that modification to the meter. Go the main page and type UT61E in the search, or try backlight. YT has a some features that if you take the time to learn them, will save you time.
@@joesmith-je3tq Yes, I did see that after I posted my question. Sorry. Do you know if Uni-T has a similar multimeter that includes a built-in backlight? I looked at their website, but I have no clue as to what's compatible with the UT61E.
@@idealynx Sorry, I do not. I take it you don't like the 210E for some reason or another. Odd because it does this one job really well.
@@joesmith-je3tq Oh no, not at all. I ordered the 210E right after you posted your recommendation. But I would like to have a better multimeter as well. Something that will read milliamps, unlike my crappy $12 Craftsman. :)
@@idealynx The 210E will read down into the mA. I've measured quiescent currents on cars below 10mA with it, no problems at all. For more generalized meters, I don't normally make recommendations. There are too many variable.
Thanks for very informative videos and this in particular. At this point I can say I'm leaning toward these Brymen, the BM 235 or the more advanced BM269s.
One think I don't understand: what difference is there between the EEVblog rebranded and "regular" one?
Can one tell me about the battery life of the Brymen 235 and the BM269s?
I went to Brymen's website and do not see a BM26 series. For battery life, you may want to just download and check the manuals. I am not sure I have ever looked at the current draw and cutout voltage for any meter. The physical difference as far as I know for the BM235 is the color and marking.
F
Just noticed the Mettler AJ100 analytical balance in the background. What do you use that for?
That's there to measure small weights. Asking specifics would be like asking what do I use a volt meter for. I did make a video where I used it as part of a small dynamometer. It's pretty fast and has an RS-232 port on it.
Interesting. I just watched two videos of your dynamometer. I'd be interested in a detailed video explanation of your setup, if you have the time.
To be clear, I have no interest in RC toys but I did post about the dyno as I was constructing it on a RC site. You may find it here. www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forums/topic/81512-self-built-rc-dyno/?page=6
Wow, those are some impressive analyses. Nice looking setup as well. I didn't read every post in the thread, so forgive me if this was discussed already, but it would be interesting to do some comparisons between similarly sized/spec'd brushed vs. brushless motors.
Glad you enjoyed looking at them. At least it gives you an idea of what not to do. I had several people contacting claiming to be some big motor suppliers and such asking about the dyno. I just kept explaining that I didn't own any RC toys and this was just a model for a larger dyno. I'm not sure why but people had a hard time believing I was not some sort of RC race guru. The absorber will handle about 100 Watts. There is a ground shaft to align everything when installing a motor. With the ceramic bearings, I could do pulls well above 20K RPM with it but proper alignment was very important!
Hey Joe, appreciate all the work you've put into this. I'm trying to access your Google spreadsheet for your data on the meters, but it looks like the link isn't working any more?
I just loaded it.
@@joesmith-je3tq Thank you sir, appreciate it
@@Weezulguy You were able to load it then or are you still unable?
@@joesmith-je3tq yes i have access
@@WeezulguyGood to hear. Let me know if you have any additional questions.
Thanks for your incredibly detailed video. It was a fascinating watch. Incredible it survived 10kV. Another nice feature of the BM235 that I've noticed my BM257s can't is the ability to show the forward voltage and light a white/blue LED.
Some of the poorly designed ones fail the ESD or the AC line test and never even make it to the this part of the test. There are not that many meters that make it past 6KV. This is one of the more robust meters I have looked at. Brymen did a good job with it.
I never understood the need to light up an LED with a meter. Personally I would want a handheld that could measure a HV diode but I don't see that happening. Glad you enjoyed the video.
I also have a 257s mine won't read three silicone diodes in series, but it's still the best field meter iv'e come across to date
Hi Joe! Thank you so much for this very detailed review. Currently I own two Fluke's, the 117 and the 17B+, but when I bought those (specially the 117) I didn't knew better, and I work more with analog electronics, so, I miss some features like mA on the 117 and true RMS on the 17B+. So, I was thinking about trading both for other units on the same price range (around $100 to $150 each). Do you recommend the BM235 or do you have any better suggestion for me? Thanks!
The BM235 is a great little general purpose meter. And while it's very robust, it lacks many things I use a meter for. My advice is download and read the manual. If you have questions, ask before you buy.
Thanks!
i was hoping you would test that meter. I like my brymen 829 as well. doesn't have the resolution that yours does but I don't need that. Great video as always I enjoy your videos.
Thanks. I'm impressed with the Brymen brand so far. I use mine a fair amount and have not had any problems with it.
my first 829 was from tme and it had an issue so i sent it back. after 9 months of trying to get answers i finally just recieved a refund. Good pricing there but as far as customer service they need alot of help.
I just wrote Brymen direct when I planned on running the 869s. They had the best communications of any of the companies I contacted. Mine came from TME as well. No problems at all. Very fast shipping and a good price as you mention.
yes i agree they were great to deal with, they even helped me yell at TME because they stopped responding to me. Eventually I just sent the same email to every contact on TME website until they just gave me some story about my meter being damaged in shipping and refunded me. I just didn't have a good experience with TME . I considered Greenlee(looks like same meter( but the price was much higher.
I wrote Greenlee and asked if they had changed anything with the 869s besides the color. They did not respond. So, TME it was.
Why do you keep on the screen protection film?
The lens on some of the meters get scratched fairly easily while I work on them. For the most part I just leave them on now.
Hey Joe, great video! Thanks for posting it. I'm trying to decide on a good prosumer-level automotive multimeter for home use. What do you recommend? Also, where can I get the chart that shows your test results for the various DMMs? Thanks!
Most people I know working in auto repair have the Modis. I've looked at a few simple DMMs for automotive. Those videos are new enough that the link for the data should be in the description. Just go to the main page and select the Motorcycle playlist. There are three different videos for automotive meters shown. You would need to watch and decide if one of them suits your needs.
@@joesmith-je3tq Ok will do. BTW, do you think that I would be better off getting a general-purpose multimeter? I know you really like the Brymen BM869. Of course, a Greenlee-compatible model might be easier to find in the U.S.
@@idealynx I would have no idea of what problem you are having, what features you need..... Only that you want some thing for automotive. The Modis seem to be the tool of choice. Maybe the only tool?
@@joesmith-je3tq Sorry, Joe. I should have provided you with more detail. Right now, I'm trying to track down a parasitic battery drain on a 2019 Mazda 3, but since the only multimeter I own is a cheap Craftsman model I was thinking about getting a more general-purpose multimeter that I could use for the problem at hand, as well as other Harry Homeowner things that may arise. :) BTW, I'm really digging your multi-part review of the 121GW.
@@idealynx That's what you should have asked. It's VERY rare I will offer any advice when it comes to meters but in this one case, I use the UNI-T UT210E clamp meter just for this purpose. Costs about $30. Will last about a year or two if you are careful with it. Maybe longer. Really a crap meter but does this one job well.
Of course, that doesn't mean it will fix your car and you still need to understand how to use the tool. Good luck
Thanks for the video. Was thinking about getting into ardiuno projects, would you recommend this meter, or is there another that would be better for the same price. I have seen it on amazon.ca for about 145.00 CAD.
Sorry but I can't make recommendations as I really have no idea what your needs are. I would read the manual for it and see if it has the features and accuracy you need. If you have a specific question about the meter, you may want to set up an account on EEVBLOG and post it there. I'm sure Dave and others would be more than happy to help you out.
Thanks for the info.
Do they ( brymen) make clamp meter ?
I am looking for clamp meter with Loz
Thanks
Brymen has a website. You can find manuals and other information for every product they offer there.
Thanks for the incredibly informative videos!
I'm glad you enjoy them.
Which DMM should I buy? This brymen 235, Greenlee DM-510A, Amprobe am-570, BK precision 393 or any others beside Uni-T!
There is a FAQ that you may find here: www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hear-kitty-kitty-kitty-nope-not-that-kind-of-cat/
@@joesmith-je3tq I assume you made that "resistance box" or whatever its called. Can we buy those somewhere or do you have tutorial links? How difficult to build? Thanks Joe! Oh btw I ordered an EEVblog BM235 should be here tomorrow, still going to buy a fluke but thanks to you not an 87V & its difficult to choose a fluke for hobbyists.
@@Metalhead-4life I made a video about this box. ua-cam.com/video/PeQpyn3926k/v-deo.html I have added a few features since then including a K-type TC simulator, current source and HV ACDC waveform. Someone had asked me about the hardware I used and how much error it would contribute. That comment is pinned on this video: ua-cam.com/video/X28bwdTBW8g/v-deo.html&lc=Ugz_uMkETNXRhxlgG2x4AaABAg
Hi, i enjoyed your video. I just received my EEVBlog 235 meter. You mentioned that the continuity buzzer was not very loud. I found mine was also very low volume until i hit the range button and the volume got very loud. I don't know if thats a new feature of the D firmware that mine has or is just a undocumented feature, but thought i would mention it.
Mine is also revision D and the range/level button has no effect on the loudness. I'm not sure why yours would. You should post Dave about it.
I just posted to Dave about the continuity loudness, I will let you know if he answers me.
Hopeful that he does. If I could have replicated it, I would have made a post with a video. Is there some specific steps you did to get it to change?
When i tried the continuity test I could just barely hear the tone but the back light flashed on and off, so pushed the range button, (I think), i was also pushing the select button trying to figure things out. The next time i tried it, it was nice and loud with the backlight still flashing. Since then, I've tried to turn it back down again and i cant figure out how to do it, so maybe Dave can explain it. Even my wife a daughter noticed the volume come up.
Hey Joel. I did post your question on Dave's forum. Dave was not aware of it.
Why he doesn't review the Fluke 28 2 ,which is made for those conditions.
Because he is not interested in the meter and he is already seeing a trend as far as Fluke goes.
@@joesmith-je3tq Hi. What is the trend with Fluke?
Amigo donde lo compraste busco el modelo 338 d brymen k cheka sensores inyectores etc automotrices gracias por kompartir
This meter was supplied to me directly from Brymen. You could try checking tme.com.
So it didn't require calibration after sockets resoldering?
It has never been realigned since I have owned it. For the calibration, you can see even after all of the testing I performed on it, there was no effect. I later did a video were I looked at the temperature feature of this meter compared with others.
Meanwhile I'm using my good old chinese multimeter.
Excellent Review !
01:30 : One thing I fail to understand is that the protection circuit you're demonstrating here appears to be common in other meters that you've showcased as well yet it's only in this case that it is located in a separate board and, I don't see why every manufacturer doesn't just make this part as a separate piece that is a common for each entire range of meters. Even better, it could be sourced as an individual part from an OEM, just like it is done with LCDs.
I can understand that the economies of scale may dictate a single board instead of two or more and the extra costs these entail. I can't understand it, however, when this circuit (or what could be a part of it) maybe a safety liability.
06:05 - 06:10 : Do these clamps need to be close to the ICs they're protecting or can they be shifted to the input protection circuit? Is the track lead inductance a determining factor in their placement?
06:52 - 07:02 : I bet this can be easily achieved using a template during hand assembly. Does the tinned track on the back of the mini board have to be created by hand or are there robots that can do the tinning? It doesn't look as if it's been done by hand but I really can't tell.
Many choices will not make sense if you are not a EE and not a designer. Business decisions may not make a lot of sense to someone who doesn't work in the industry as well.
I can't say I know much about the business model of such specialised companies - it's a complete mystery to me and I'm quite happy with it staying that way - but I suspect the clientele of companies such as Fluke, Gossen, Tektronix etc. is predominantly comprised of professionals and not hobbyists.
Probably every aspect of designing such instruments is a specialised field even among EE professionals - as with most fields of enterprise nowadays. In addition, there are the secrets of the trade to compound what is already a complicated enough matter to those on the outside. I am certainly not expecting any of these active professional to appear out of the blue and start answering design questions regarding a specific model in a public forum - I would expect that might be quite contrary to their contractual obligations or professional ethics. By posting questions or points on aspects that tickle my interest I'm hoping to generate a discussion or invite qualified responses from whoever might share a similar interest or has something to add that might aid understanding. Everyone's level of expertise is quite different of course.
You must realize this is a small channel and very few people leave comments. It you are looking to have a discussion, I would suggest you join some of the EE forums. You will get a lot more feedback them than you will find here.
The attached link is where I typically post about the handheld meter testing. Feel free to join and ask your questions. www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hear-kitty-kitty-kitty-nope-not-that-kind-of-cat/
a-ha! Thanks for the link - I hadn't realised you had a dedicated topic on EEVblog. I don't frequent EEVblog much but maybe I should. I'll definitely check the topic you''ve created.
I've been hopping around your videos on different meters but haven't had the patience to go through one of your longer series on a single meter yet. The reason is probably that I'm interested primarily in certain tests such as ESD,, RMS measurement bandwidth, etc. more than others (e.g. functional testing). Now, if I had my eyes set on a particular meter, it would be a different story of course. What has impressed me watching your videos, however, is that there is no single meter you've reviewed that is without drawbacks - regardless of price. It's more that some are better than others in certain respects.
As I've only found your channel, the wealth of information is quite overwhelming and I ought to pace myself. I'm interested in the capabilities some of the more advanced meters you're testing have to offer especially with some which could be used as bench top replacements. I can't bring myself to fork out the cash one of these cost - I just don't really need these capabilities, I just find them interesting. Then again you never know what I might find on ebay in a couple of years. In any case, it's good to have some idea of what lies under the bonnet. I suppose if I ever decide to go for one of those, I'll be buying it with my eyes open. I know very little about the workings of digital meters and these videos have certainly widened my perspective on their limitations.
But you're right in that the yt channels are not the proper place to have discussions anyway - the format is not ideal for this use for a start.
Now that is what you call a meter being tested! Like a man! No messing about making sure your muff doesn't have a stray spiders leg before filming!I'd love to see you review a car! 😀Subfukinscribed! Lol 💪👊
agree with others, this is fantastic work you're doing, it's really awesome
Love the review. The crooked terminal was a bit anal! No function was impaired. Ps it's only $130 AUD. Geez for that I would buy 20 of these compared to others.
Having the terminal stressed every time the leads are installed, not to mention having to work the loads a bit to get them inserted is not a detail I would gloss over. There are many reviews that are far less detailed. I suggest you look for those.
I wasn't criticizing. I was trying to say for a cheap meter, the crooked terminal is not really big problem in the scope of things:) Keep up the good work.
If it caused the solder joint to fracture, the connector to fail prematurely or make it difficult to insert the test leads, I would say it's a problem. I don't like the fact they notched the plastic as well. Again, you personally may not care about this level of detail but this channel may not be for you.
Ok. I won't watch anymore of your videos. You think I am not good enough for your channel as you say.
The fact you would put words in my mouth so to say, may be another reason this is not a good channel for you.
Now, I'm sure what second meter to buy hehehehe... ty
👍👍
nice vid, thankyou
No problem. Glad you enjoyed it. Not a bad little meter.
peel those films off... :/
Dry your thumb off.
Why Dave Jones did not make a review of his selling meter? I just want him to criticise small details like he did with other brands. But I see he's a little bastard, he only did some unboxing, repairs and a lot of marketing...
He's in the business of selling meters now. Did you ever see him give a critical review of his 121GW? I haven't.
It's possible too that he views it as a conflict of interest and is looking for impartial reviews from others. That's fine as well. I don't mind digging in and I'm sure others don't as well.
@@joesmith-je3tq I think it would be fair to do a critical review+teardown of his meters also. He might win a few more buyers and extra sympathy from all of us for being honest and fair..
@@aicisha I tend to agree with you.
haha just bcoz a little crazy Australian guy trying to survive and sells some rebranded shitty multimeters, they aren't better as any other Chinese noname brand.
You are basing this on what? I've shown my data, show me yours.
@@joesmith-je3tq Forking A. If you spout some smack prove it with data. I have watched the whole video and really appreciate that you have done some VERY extensive testing. And what I got from the video was "This is an Acceptable meter for the price point". Thank you for the effort you expended in getting the information out. (Now I'm out to go buy one). Oh and subscribed, liked, and clicked the bell.
@@Javafiendcuppajoe Thanks. I appreciate the comment.
@@joesmith-je3tq Just ordered my new multimeter, its gonna be 2 days...
Oh FFS, the author of this video spent so many hours doing a crazy amount of testing and you dismiss it because why? Your "feelpinion"?