Hello, Joe, thank you so much for the demonstration< I love the FLUKE multi neater, however I am contemplating buying the UNI-T UT-181A, it's awesome and it has an optional BlueTooth adapter for use with a phone, tablet or computer. Thank you so much for the time you took to do this. Awesome! 👍❤
While the 181A has far too many issues, it may indeed be an awesome meter for you. While it is is possible to get the BLE adapter to work with a PC, I am not aware of any software from UNI-T that supports it. I believe that there is some open source projects. You can see the 181A BLE in operation in the following video, starting at 20 minutes in. ua-cam.com/video/e_YzwO62feQ/v-deo.html
I really thank you for all your great videos!! What I really like by your videos is that there are no fanboy or hatred, you do evaluate every product no matter if it is a Fluke, UNI-T or other in a neutral manner with data to back it up!! Wary nice and what make your channel better then most!
I have nothing to gain by making the videos. No one is paying me to make them. So I end up running meters I find of interest. It really doesn't matter to me how they perform. You see what I see. I also don't care what products people buy. That's really up to the individual. So the channel will continue to be data driven. If I start talking for a half hour about how I feel about a product, I suggest you find another channel as I have gone off the tracks!! Take care.
@@joesmith-je3tq Precisely why your channel is so fantastic! There are one other UA-camr who almost forgive anyting from bad soldering, bad user-design and many other thing, as long it has the right name, where other less prestige products that even when they use high end solutions gets bashed for being bad! You can even here it in his voice right from the start what the result will be! :-)
@@friedmule5403 Well, after running so many meters I have brand bias. I can't ignore the data. It's obvious there are some brands that will hold up to these tests much better than others. I can also look at a meter and have a pretty good idea how it is going to behave. Still, once in a while I still get it wrong. The transient generators are not brand loyal so in the end the data overrides any bias I have.
I recently purchased the 171B model, the 181 was not available, i'm really happy with it, for my hobby purposes is a space shuttle, hope you will do review of this model in the future.
Joe doesn't buy a multimeter with any intention of going swimming with it. Unlike a certain Australian electronics blogger I think we are all familiar with.
IMO, functionally one of the best UNI-T products I have looked at. Like most UNI-T products, the fact it is so sensitive to even the most basic transients, it's not a product I would ever recommend.
Yes same here!!! but price factor in this brand is also very 👌... but these transits are necessary for electrical field!!! for electronics I think neglecting at certain level due to somewhat these transits may not be the part of electronics... Right??? but Metrahit, Fluke, Beryam like brands are too great for extreme environments, transits, accuracy etc...
@@partscience I could walk through my house and create a bigger transient independent of my hobby .... Right??? I have no use for a meter that can't handle the most basic of transients no matter the price. Seeing that you brought up price, the 181A was around $300 USD and the BMB869s around $230. There is no comparison which one is more robust.
I am not sure on the reliability part. I don't use UNI-T products except for the reviews, except for the UT210E clamp. One of the clamps I use frequently developed an intermittent switch after about a year of moderate use. No, I don't consider the reliable but as you suggest, it is a very inexpensive meter.
Joe great video. For reference what is the peak output voltage of the grill starter you use? If you can't measure it can you spark it and measure the maximum distance you can get to see the spark fly?
Hello. Today the quality is not very good. I bought a UT181A and it has problems: there are a lot of solder balls inside the case, a broken varistor, and in the mode of measuring capacitors up to 6nF - an incorrect measurement, but in 60nF mode, everything is fine. Maybe you know how to fix the error and calibrate the device? Thanks for the detailed review.
From my own testing, it seems you can buy quality product today. Really odd you would find a broken MOV from the factory. I would have returned the meter for a replacement. I am not aware of an alignment procedure for the 181A. You would need to request that from UNI-T. Another option may be to return the meter to have the MOV replaced and the meter aligned.
@@joesmith-je3tq Thank you for responding. Sending back a parcel from our country is quite an expensive undertaking. I wrote to the UniT support service, but they are silent, like partisans. I compared my copy with the one presented in your video, so their circuitry is a little different. By the way, do you know anything about the secret service menu: when you turn on, hold down the F2+F3 buttons? 00000 will appear on the screen and God only knows what to do with it. :))
@@AD-wd7ff That's too bad. If it was brand new, I would have thought the seller would replace it. I've never tried to see if there were hidden menus. I can certainly understand them not making the alignment public as you can imagine all the hobbyist trying to align them with their 9V batteries then complaining when they damage the meter and can't get it serviced. Still, it would be good if they would release it to cal labs or under NDA. I keep holding out that UNI-T will make an improved version of this meter.
Wow, I'm sold. One question though. I'm an idiot and I keep forgetting to take the lead out of the amps jack, is this thing idiot proof in that regard? I'm kinda sick of popping fuses because I keep forgetting! I know the Flukes will tell you that the lead is in the wrong socket, but will this meter? Cheers!
My apologies, I ought to pay more attention. I saw in the disassembly that it had photodiodes on the jacks but I wanted to make sure that they did what I thought they would (tell me when the lead's in the amps jacks). I'll be rewatching the video for my dinnertime/bedtime entertainment!
Agilent U1273A killer festures, accuracy, killer speed and spot on! Quality construction! I have in this case, F289 F87V and the Agilent. Best compromise!
Hey mate another great review thanks! I hope you can fix it... This model isn't cheap for the price i was expecting more safety! the features make it look like an over the top UT61E....
+everyday “everyday survival” survival gear Thanks! I think this is the highest end model they make. It may be an over the top UT61E but in the end, it fails the same.
I don't normally make recommendations as I would have no way to know your particular use case. I assume you took the time to watch both videos and understood the all of the shortcomings and are not concerned. With this video now being 6 years old, the battery included with mine has started to fail. Something else to consider.
@@joesmith-je3tq ok. Thank you very much for replying. Although I have found an offer in my country (Spain) for 285$, I think I will definitely look for an alternative to this uniT meter because of the problems you mentioned. In your professional opinion, what do you think is the biggest problem with it? What I liked the most about this tester is the speed of updating the analog bar (which is important to me), the quality of the screen and display and also the possibility of data logging. The only alternative I have found is the Fluke 283 but it is really out of my reach because of its high price :( Thank you very much
@@recursoseninternet Hard to say. I think for me the biggest concern I would have is I can't trust that the meter would be ready to use when I need it. If the battery is low, you can't just toss in a new set of standard batteries. The meter takes several hours to charge and you can't use it during that time. That would happen once. Again, you may be perfectly fine with it's shortcomings. The good part is there are a lot of products available to choose from.
@@joesmith-je3tq Thank you very much. I will continue looking for the tester with similar functions but without those problems and with a similar price. Thank you very much for your help!
Hello Joe, I want buy a handheld oscilloscope but i am undecided between UT181A and UT81C. Can you help me with the biggest diference and if the UT181A (data logger) can work with oscilloscope? Very thanks
Hello, I am thinking of buying this meter, can you comment on the display update speed? Do you have any idea how many updates/sec? And does it have latching continuity?
Have Just Purchased This meter and it reads a 100k as 68 k also it cannot lock on to a 700k resistance on the auto range setting it keeps dithering between 600 k range and 600M ranges with out giving a reading is this a fault in my instrument or has anyone else come across this ?
I'm sure I could buy one but I have ran a lot of UNI-T products and they never perform very well in my tests. I can't see wasting any more time with them. If they ever release an improved version of the UT181A, I will have a look at it.
@@joesmith-je3tq I'm having a hard time finding a cheap solution for this. If you know of any cheap current source or diy project, I'd be glad to know. Thanks.
@@camurgo I am not sure what your goals are. If you were for example planning to review meters, maybe just state what the manufactures call out in the manual. If you are trying to calibrate or align meters, it will depended on the meter. Just having the reference standard calibrated may not be cheap, depending on what cheap means to you. If you have a meter that is better than what you plan to check and that meter is in current calibration, you could just use it as a reference. If you are looking for a used standard, there is always eBay.
@@joesmith-je3tq yes, it's not a definite plan but I'd like to review meters and other equipment in the future. I'd like to be able to connect meters in series (having one them being the 'standard', maybe my fluke 289) , increase the current passing through them in very small steps, and see how they compare. I know this doesn't tell me all that much, but it would be cool to perform.
@@camurgo You never mention what cheap means to you. I would just check some used equipment prices with some sort of trial period and price having it sent in for calibration. Or you could just watch what most people do for their reviews and follow suit.
Joe Thanks for a great vid. End Of Test! Ha! Would like to see comparison of several datalogging meters. Does someone make an "event datalogger"? I don't want time-based recording but rather to know when a parameter has breached a threshold, and to record all such events.
Thanks. Yes, it was a little sad to see it die but then again this is pretty typical for the UNI-T meters I have tested. Data logging is such a generic term it's hard to say without having details about what you need. If for example you wanted to log some sort of transient on the AC mains, I suggest you have a look at some of HIOKI's products. If you wanted to look at low voltage signals, maybe have a look at what National Instruments offers. It really depends what your trying to do. Do your homework!!
+joe smith *affordable* AC power transient recording. Seems only power quality analyzers do this and are $k's. Do you know of anything that will do single-phase transient monitoring and recording for sub-US$1k?
The HIOKI's I use are in the range of 9K or so but are well made. Well worth the price. For under 1K, I really have no idea what you would use that would still be useful. If you find something you think may work, post about it.
Would be nice to see Brymen or other quality group do an affordable copy of this: tinyurl.com/hlvnz6f Fluke 345 clamp quality analyzer. Manual: www.instrumart.com/assets/Fluke-345-Manual.pdf For its age (2006) it's pretty good.
99% of UNI-Trend's products are total junk but for some reason, it's like they tried with the UT-181A. It's the only bit of UNI-T kit, I keep in the lab but for the UT-513 door stop.
I have to agree. The UT81A has potential to be a really nice meter for electronics use. I also like the UT210E current clamp, just for that 1mA DC resolution. I've personally looked at two of the clamps that after a year or so of moderate use, the function switches started going bad. I would gladly pay more for higher end versions of these two products.
What would you recommend for a meter/scope at a decent price level similar to say the 181 ? I've had one of the UT210 current clamps for several years now, and have never had any issues with it. For the money it's a bargain. But I'd like a handheld scope meter for quick testing on both automotive and LV electrical.
The trendplot test was not near detailed enough... it looks to me that the fluke has a lot more data points and thus also draws a lot slower. From what I have seen the fluke has about 3 p/s, so how does the UNI-T stand up?
Looks as slow as the 289. If that works for you so be it but it's very poor compared with the 181A. Too bad he had nothing to compare it against in his review.
Yep, that's why I asked. It's the key point of a graphical multimeter vs a more std. data logging. In any case I have decided on the fluke 289 (calibrated). Seems to me it's the most precise and detailed.
If I were to buy a Fluke for my own use, the 289 is what I would get. When I borrowed my friends for these tests, I was glad I went with the BM869s instead because of the 289's long boot times and small fonts. The battery life is not great but really for me, I doubt it would have been too much of a problem. I have no idea how robust its front end is compared with the BM869s. Too bad that 181A isn't a better made product.
looks as if UNI-T is sort of a copy of fluke! one can see the F1 - F4 btn's are no different no? ( It's not that hard to copy and manipulate software too.)
I doubt I will run these as they do no appear to be very common or available here. I did a quick search and did not come across any pictures showing how they are constructed. They look like another Fluke copy cat. If you own one, you should do a teardown video of it.
I would prefer the Brymen BM869s. If I had to go with Fluke branded meter, I would want a 189 but they no longer offer it. But I suspect what you really want to know is what meter YOU should buy and I really can't answer that for you.
@@joesmith-je3tq is it fair to compare basic text meters with a scope display ? As surely anyone considering the UT181a would be doing so largely for that ability ? it failed in the ESD test....but for a normal daily user on say automotive or LV electrical, how likely is such damage to occur ?
@@blow0me I'm not sure what you are asking, "is it fair". The UT181a is not a scope replacement and I doubt anyone would purchase it thinking it was. It can log data but at a fairly slow rate. Basically, it's a Fluke 289 knockoff with a few added features. ESD will depend on a lot of factors, like humidity, proper grounding.
@@joesmith-je3tq For testing automotive ( variable voltage signals ) sensors, rotational sensors even a slow handheld scope can be very handy, where a regular multimeter is effectively useless. Likewise for seeing voltage dropouts during testing. The graph/scope feature can be vital, Hence a meter with one vs one without, in this instance there is no real comparison about effectiveness.
Should also mention that I don't use the meter often. The battery would normally be recharged every 50 or so hours of operation. You may find under heavy use, your battery life may be less.
Good lawd, they haven't updated these $$$ multimeter models in SIX YEARS ... our pocket phones are supercomputers, why are these multimeters stuck in 2005.
LOL thats too bad. Only thing i have from them is the clamp meter you have shown and I like that . Other then that I have only seen bad things with this brand. I like the 1 ma resolution on the clamp for battery drain issues.
Holly shit this meter is a copy of the Fluke 289. I have one Fluke 289, display is not very good, the UT181 come with excellent oled display. Do you recoment this meter? Thanks so much.
I will say that I still like the Brymen BM869s over any of the meters I have looked at. There are way too many variables for me to make recommendations. For me, any meter that is damaged this easily I would have no need for. If they make a better version of it, I would be interested in having another look.
The Fluke 289 is a disappointing purchase for me personally, it sucks your battery fast, Slow response, Display sucks, Must have a charging port for charging the batteries, Stupid menu access when it comes to switching between items. , it is only perfect for data logging purposes, reports, accuracy is perfect, well protected.
Not sure what the charging port would be but I agree with the rest and would add that slow boot up time would bother me along with the very slow graphing. If it can't zoom, pan... in your hand fast, what's the point. This is why you won't see one on my bench anytime soon.
I have posted data about the grill starter on eevblog for those interested. www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hear-kitty-kitty-kitty-nope-not-that-kind-of-cat/msg912425/#msg912425
I'm always surprised when someone new comes around and reacts with comments like these before reading the FAQ or doing any research. Of course, the FAQ is well hidden, in the description for this video. I suggest you start there. There is also a lot of information archived on EEVBLOG about the tests I have ran. If you have questions after doing a little homework, feel free to ask.
I already had eBay listings pulled up on this meter from everything you've shown in the video, right up until the very end. The price difference between this meter and the Hioki 4256 that I was looking to buy wasn't all that significant to me and the extra functionality and precision is definitely handy... such as the triple display for AC+DC, a good diode test range, seeminly responsive continuity, high contrast display, good battery life, responsive bar graph, high~ish frequency counter etc. I use an Amprobe 38XR-A as a "go to" meter which is a good all around meter, just a bit dated at this point. So... you're a terrible person. Way to ruin my fun. Hahah just kidding of course.. but wow that's a real shame. What are the characteristics of that grill igniter? Rise time/voltage? I wonder if there's some capacitive coupling due to the fast transient that simply glitched it. I hope it's not actually dead and salvageable after a full reset. After the pulse, the LCD still seems to be "on" but frozen in the video, with just the backlight being off..
+whatlions After I shot the video, I pulled both batteries, let it set then reinstalled. Dead. Not just back light, really dead. I had measured that grill starter at one time. I'll see if I can find some of the data and post in on the eevblog site.
+joe smith Super unfortunate. Maybe the clamping was just too slow.. or that protection circuitry took a day off. Hope you can get a warranty repair out of it. Thank you again for making these videos.
+whatlions I have yet to try and return a meter for warranty as I knowingly have the full intent to test them to failure. The only time I even considered this is with Brymen and that was only because I had an open dialog going with them. It is rare that a company will respond to my emails. There will be a part 2 for this meter but it will have to wait.
+joe smith I find that in business in general you have to try to engage the right employee at a company to get a dialogue started. If you just end up with some HR/support person, they may not know what to do with your email and not respond. But for non-English speaking companies this is just much harder unfortunately. I've had maybe a 90% response rate whenever I've emailed high ranking people. The problem was always just getting that contact info to begin with and structuring your messages to be concise and to the point. The main thing is just to prove that you're not a crazy person and that there's merit to the dialogue. I look forward to part 2! Thank you for using your own money to do this destructive testing.. not many people would. :/
Hello, Joe, thank you so much for the demonstration< I love the FLUKE multi neater, however I am contemplating buying the UNI-T UT-181A, it's awesome and it has an optional BlueTooth adapter for use with a phone, tablet or computer. Thank you so much for the time you took to do this. Awesome! 👍❤
While the 181A has far too many issues, it may indeed be an awesome meter for you. While it is is possible to get the BLE adapter to work with a PC, I am not aware of any software from UNI-T that supports it. I believe that there is some open source projects. You can see the 181A BLE in operation in the following video, starting at 20 minutes in. ua-cam.com/video/e_YzwO62feQ/v-deo.html
Thank you, learn a lot from you. An excellent engineering review on UT-181.
Great review Joe...i can see a Fluke 289 too.
I really thank you for all your great videos!! What I really like by your videos is that there are no fanboy or hatred, you do evaluate every product no matter if it is a Fluke, UNI-T or other in a neutral manner with data to back it up!! Wary nice and what make your channel better then most!
I have nothing to gain by making the videos. No one is paying me to make them. So I end up running meters I find of interest. It really doesn't matter to me how they perform. You see what I see. I also don't care what products people buy. That's really up to the individual.
So the channel will continue to be data driven. If I start talking for a half hour about how I feel about a product, I suggest you find another channel as I have gone off the tracks!! Take care.
@@joesmith-je3tq Precisely why your channel is so fantastic! There are one other UA-camr who almost forgive anyting from bad soldering, bad user-design and many other thing, as long it has the right name, where other less prestige products that even when they use high end solutions gets bashed for being bad! You can even here it in his voice right from the start what the result will be! :-)
@@friedmule5403 Well, after running so many meters I have brand bias. I can't ignore the data. It's obvious there are some brands that will hold up to these tests much better than others. I can also look at a meter and have a pretty good idea how it is going to behave. Still, once in a while I still get it wrong. The transient generators are not brand loyal so in the end the data overrides any bias I have.
extremely helpful review
thanks a lot dear, waiting more of this excellent efforts
Damn uniT is rocking it.
This is the best review i've ever watched thank you very much sir
Gee what a pity. I was really hoping it could go a bit higher. Thanks for this video, Joe
No problem. Glad you enjoyed it. Would have liked it to do better myself. I keep waiting for a UT181B with EMC and safety approvals.
I recently purchased the 171B model, the 181 was not available, i'm really happy with it, for my hobby purposes is a space shuttle, hope you will do review of this model in the future.
Did you read through this thread? Maybe you will find something of interest: www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/uni-t-ut171b-teardown/
Thanks for your review, 👍🏻
Joe doesn't buy a multimeter with any intention of going swimming with it. Unlike a certain Australian electronics blogger I think we are all familiar with.
Nice review, thank you.
That's content I was searching and telling you at another video!!😁
IMO, functionally one of the best UNI-T products I have looked at. Like most UNI-T products, the fact it is so sensitive to even the most basic transients, it's not a product I would ever recommend.
Yes same here!!! but price factor in this brand is also very 👌... but these transits are necessary for electrical field!!! for electronics I think neglecting at certain level due to somewhat these transits may not be the part of electronics... Right??? but Metrahit, Fluke, Beryam like brands are too great for extreme environments, transits, accuracy etc...
As price for that reliability is paid...
@@partscience I could walk through my house and create a bigger transient independent of my hobby .... Right??? I have no use for a meter that can't handle the most basic of transients no matter the price. Seeing that you brought up price, the 181A was around $300 USD and the BMB869s around $230. There is no comparison which one is more robust.
I am not sure on the reliability part. I don't use UNI-T products except for the reviews, except for the UT210E clamp. One of the clamps I use frequently developed an intermittent switch after about a year of moderate use. No, I don't consider the reliable but as you suggest, it is a very inexpensive meter.
Joe great video. For reference what is the peak output voltage of the grill starter you use? If you can't measure it can you spark it and measure the maximum distance you can get to see the spark fly?
+Ig Saturation Here you go: www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hear-kitty-kitty-kitty-nope-not-that-kind-of-cat/msg912425/#msg912425
Hello. Today the quality is not very good. I bought a UT181A and it has problems: there are a lot of solder balls inside the case, a broken varistor, and in the mode of measuring capacitors up to 6nF - an incorrect measurement, but in 60nF mode, everything is fine. Maybe you know how to fix the error and calibrate the device? Thanks for the detailed review.
From my own testing, it seems you can buy quality product today. Really odd you would find a broken MOV from the factory. I would have returned the meter for a replacement. I am not aware of an alignment procedure for the 181A. You would need to request that from UNI-T. Another option may be to return the meter to have the MOV replaced and the meter aligned.
@@joesmith-je3tq Thank you for responding. Sending back a parcel from our country is quite an expensive undertaking. I wrote to the UniT support service, but they are silent, like partisans. I compared my copy with the one presented in your video, so their circuitry is a little different. By the way, do you know anything about the secret service menu: when you turn on, hold down the F2+F3 buttons? 00000 will appear on the screen and God only knows what to do with it. :))
@@AD-wd7ff That's too bad. If it was brand new, I would have thought the seller would replace it. I've never tried to see if there were hidden menus. I can certainly understand them not making the alignment public as you can imagine all the hobbyist trying to align them with their 9V batteries then complaining when they damage the meter and can't get it serviced. Still, it would be good if they would release it to cal labs or under NDA. I keep holding out that UNI-T will make an improved version of this meter.
Wow, I'm sold. One question though. I'm an idiot and I keep forgetting to take the lead out of the amps jack, is this thing idiot proof in that regard? I'm kinda sick of popping fuses because I keep forgetting! I know the Flukes will tell you that the lead is in the wrong socket, but will this meter? Cheers!
Your question was covered in the video.
My apologies, I ought to pay more attention. I saw in the disassembly that it had photodiodes on the jacks but I wanted to make sure that they did what I thought they would (tell me when the lead's in the amps jacks). I'll be rewatching the video for my dinnertime/bedtime entertainment!
I would suggest you also download and read the manual before you purchase one.
I'm impressed with this review. I was slowly being convinced toward this UNI-T...hmmm...better stay away.
Imma buy this
Edit : after seeing display update rate, I'm considering fluke 87v. Which one is better? I'm working on automotive industry
Agilent U1273A killer festures, accuracy, killer speed and spot on! Quality construction! I have in this case, F289 F87V and the Agilent. Best compromise!
Hey mate another great review thanks!
I hope you can fix it... This model isn't cheap for the price i was expecting more safety! the features make it look like an over the top UT61E....
+everyday “everyday survival” survival gear Thanks! I think this is the highest end model they make. It may be an over the top UT61E but in the end, it fails the same.
I am thinking of buying a UNI-T UT181A as my main multimeter, do you recommend this model or maybe another one?
I don't normally make recommendations as I would have no way to know your particular use case. I assume you took the time to watch both videos and understood the all of the shortcomings and are not concerned. With this video now being 6 years old, the battery included with mine has started to fail. Something else to consider.
@@joesmith-je3tq ok. Thank you very much for replying. Although I have found an offer in my country (Spain) for 285$, I think I will definitely look for an alternative to this uniT meter because of the problems you mentioned. In your professional opinion, what do you think is the biggest problem with it? What I liked the most about this tester is the speed of updating the analog bar (which is important to me), the quality of the screen and display and also the possibility of data logging. The only alternative I have found is the Fluke 283 but it is really out of my reach because of its high price :( Thank you very much
@@recursoseninternet Hard to say. I think for me the biggest concern I would have is I can't trust that the meter would be ready to use when I need it. If the battery is low, you can't just toss in a new set of standard batteries. The meter takes several hours to charge and you can't use it during that time. That would happen once. Again, you may be perfectly fine with it's shortcomings. The good part is there are a lot of products available to choose from.
@@joesmith-je3tq Thank you very much. I will continue looking for the tester with similar functions but without those problems and with a similar price. Thank you very much for your help!
@@recursoseninternet The 181A is basically is a copy of the Fluke 289. The 289 has it's own problems (like every meter).
Hello Joe,
I want buy a handheld oscilloscope but i am undecided between UT181A and UT81C. Can you help me with the biggest diference and if the UT181A (data logger) can work with oscilloscope?
Very thanks
The major difference is the sampling frequency, resolution and bandwidth.
Hello, I am thinking of buying this meter, can you comment on the display update speed? Do you have any idea how many updates/sec? And does it have latching continuity?
The manual doesn't cover your questions?
Is this multimeter uni t 181 option activate deactivate audible diode mode in case of test diode or transistor?
Download the manual and read it before buying.
Have Just Purchased This meter and it reads a 100k as 68 k also it cannot lock on to a 700k resistance on the auto range setting it keeps dithering between 600 k range and 600M ranges with out giving a reading is this a fault in my instrument or has anyone else come across this ?
Wow, that's pretty bad. I have not heard of any problems like this. Showing 68K for a 100K device, something is wrong.
@@joesmith-je3tq Cheers Joe will send the bugger back Regards Martin
Any chance you can get your hands on a UNI T UT195E?
I'm sure I could buy one but I have ran a lot of UNI-T products and they never perform very well in my tests. I can't see wasting any more time with them. If they ever release an improved version of the UT181A, I will have a look at it.
What kind of instrument would you use if you wanted to compare the multimeters' microamp range?
A current source.
@@joesmith-je3tq I'm having a hard time finding a cheap solution for this. If you know of any cheap current source or diy project, I'd be glad to know. Thanks.
@@camurgo I am not sure what your goals are. If you were for example planning to review meters, maybe just state what the manufactures call out in the manual. If you are trying to calibrate or align meters, it will depended on the meter. Just having the reference standard calibrated may not be cheap, depending on what cheap means to you. If you have a meter that is better than what you plan to check and that meter is in current calibration, you could just use it as a reference. If you are looking for a used standard, there is always eBay.
@@joesmith-je3tq yes, it's not a definite plan but I'd like to review meters and other equipment in the future. I'd like to be able to connect meters in series (having one them being the 'standard', maybe my fluke 289) , increase the current passing through them in very small steps, and see how they compare. I know this doesn't tell me all that much, but it would be cool to perform.
@@camurgo You never mention what cheap means to you. I would just check some used equipment prices with some sort of trial period and price having it sent in for calibration. Or you could just watch what most people do for their reviews and follow suit.
Joe
Thanks for a great vid.
End Of Test! Ha!
Would like to see comparison of several datalogging meters.
Does someone make an "event datalogger"? I don't want time-based recording but rather to know when a parameter has breached a threshold, and to record all such events.
"transient logging"?
Thanks. Yes, it was a little sad to see it die but then again this is pretty typical for the UNI-T meters I have tested. Data logging is such a generic term it's hard to say without having details about what you need. If for example you wanted to log some sort of transient on the AC mains, I suggest you have a look at some of HIOKI's products. If you wanted to look at low voltage signals, maybe have a look at what National Instruments offers. It really depends what your trying to do. Do your homework!!
+joe smith
*affordable* AC power transient recording.
Seems only power quality analyzers do this and are $k's.
Do you know of anything that will do single-phase transient monitoring and recording for sub-US$1k?
The HIOKI's I use are in the range of 9K or so but are well made. Well worth the price. For under 1K, I really have no idea what you would use that would still be useful. If you find something you think may work, post about it.
Would be nice to see Brymen or other quality group do an affordable copy of this:
tinyurl.com/hlvnz6f
Fluke 345 clamp quality analyzer.
Manual:
www.instrumart.com/assets/Fluke-345-Manual.pdf
For its age (2006) it's pretty good.
99% of UNI-Trend's products are total junk but for some reason, it's like they tried with the UT-181A. It's the only bit of UNI-T kit, I keep in the lab but for the UT-513 door stop.
I have to agree. The UT81A has potential to be a really nice meter for electronics use. I also like the UT210E current clamp, just for that 1mA DC resolution. I've personally looked at two of the clamps that after a year or so of moderate use, the function switches started going bad. I would gladly pay more for higher end versions of these two products.
What would you recommend for a meter/scope at a decent price level similar to say the 181 ? I've had one of the UT210 current clamps for several years now, and have never had any issues with it. For the money it's a bargain. But I'd like a handheld scope meter for quick testing on both automotive and LV electrical.
The trendplot test was not near detailed enough... it looks to me that the fluke has a lot more data points and thus also draws a lot slower. From what I have seen the fluke has about 3 p/s, so how does the UNI-T stand up?
Sample rate was set the same. UNI-T was much faster. Not too surprised, based on a much newer design.
Looks as slow as the 289. If that works for you so be it but it's very poor compared with the 181A. Too bad he had nothing to compare it against in his review.
Looks like he compared it in another video. Have a look and see what you think.ua-cam.com/video/DLMGDNcHEUU/v-deo.html
Yep, that's why I asked. It's the key point of a graphical multimeter vs a more std. data logging. In any case I have decided on the fluke 289 (calibrated). Seems to me it's the most precise and detailed.
If I were to buy a Fluke for my own use, the 289 is what I would get. When I borrowed my friends for these tests, I was glad I went with the BM869s instead because of the 289's long boot times and small fonts. The battery life is not great but really for me, I doubt it would have been too much of a problem. I have no idea how robust its front end is compared with the BM869s. Too bad that 181A isn't a better made product.
Maximum distance a spark can travel at 1000V is 1.2mm
Hello!
What did you solve with the defect: 48:10 ?
I solved having too many meters to decide from.
muito bom parabéns
looks as if UNI-T is sort of a copy of fluke! one can see the F1 - F4 btn's are no different no? ( It's not that hard to copy and manipulate software too.)
Can you do a review between the Victor VC187 and Victor VC189 please?
I doubt I will run these as they do no appear to be very common or available here. I did a quick search and did not come across any pictures showing how they are constructed. They look like another Fluke copy cat. If you own one, you should do a teardown video of it.
What would you prefer ut181a or fluke 287 for the same price of 300$?
I would prefer the Brymen BM869s. If I had to go with Fluke branded meter, I would want a 189 but they no longer offer it. But I suspect what you really want to know is what meter YOU should buy and I really can't answer that for you.
@@joesmith-je3tq thank you!
@@joesmith-je3tq is it fair to compare basic text meters with a scope display ? As surely anyone considering the UT181a would be doing so largely for that ability ?
it failed in the ESD test....but for a normal daily user on say automotive or LV electrical, how likely is such damage to occur ?
@@blow0me I'm not sure what you are asking, "is it fair". The UT181a is not a scope replacement and I doubt anyone would purchase it thinking it was. It can log data but at a fairly slow rate. Basically, it's a Fluke 289 knockoff with a few added features. ESD will depend on a lot of factors, like humidity, proper grounding.
@@joesmith-je3tq For testing automotive ( variable voltage signals ) sensors, rotational sensors even a slow handheld scope can be very handy, where a regular multimeter is effectively useless. Likewise for seeing voltage dropouts during testing. The graph/scope feature can be vital, Hence a meter with one vs one without, in this instance there is no real comparison about effectiveness.
Fluke 289 is going down, I have one and I don't like it. Will grab that Uni-t soon
Just be aware that the battery in mine has started to fail. This should provide you with some idea what to expect for a life time.
@@joesmith-je3tq started to fail after? How long
@@MicrosiMe Check the date of the video. Should give you some idea what yo expect from yours.
Should also mention that I don't use the meter often. The battery would normally be recharged every 50 or so hours of operation. You may find under heavy use, your battery life may be less.
@@joesmith-je3tq 6 years? That's great 👍
Good lawd, they haven't updated these $$$ multimeter models in SIX YEARS ... our pocket phones are supercomputers, why are these multimeters stuck in 2005.
LOL thats too bad. Only thing i have from them is the clamp meter you have shown and I like that . Other then that I have only seen bad things with this brand. I like the 1 ma resolution on the clamp for battery drain issues.
+Don Muscarella I like the clamp a lot. I would never use the probe inputs, but the clamp itself is really nice.
+joe smith same here
Fluke has LoZ V AC, so, does UNI-T has?
The user manuals for both meters are available on-line.
Holly shit this meter is a copy of the Fluke 289.
I have one Fluke 289, display is not very good, the UT181 come with excellent oled display.
Do you recoment this meter?
Thanks so much.
I will say that I still like the Brymen BM869s over any of the meters I have looked at. There are way too many variables for me to make recommendations. For me, any meter that is damaged this easily I would have no need for. If they make a better version of it, I would be interested in having another look.
The UT181A presently on the Uni-T website shows a release date of 2018-09-19. Was this datalogging multimeter updated since this 2016 review?
The Fluke 289 is a disappointing purchase for me personally, it sucks your battery fast, Slow response, Display sucks, Must have a charging port for charging the batteries, Stupid menu access when it comes to switching between items. , it is only perfect for data logging purposes, reports, accuracy is perfect, well protected.
Not sure what the charging port would be but I agree with the rest and would add that slow boot up time would bother me along with the very slow graphing. If it can't zoom, pan... in your hand fast, what's the point. This is why you won't see one on my bench anytime soon.
I have posted data about the grill starter on eevblog for those interested. www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hear-kitty-kitty-kitty-nope-not-that-kind-of-cat/msg912425/#msg912425
It JUST occurred to me. PTC = Pyro Technic Component! Ha. Ha Ha
Why would you input 5000V into a multimeter when it can only take 1000V? If it can take 5000V, the manufacturer will mark it 5000V for limitation.
I'm always surprised when someone new comes around and reacts with comments like these before reading the FAQ or doing any research. Of course, the FAQ is well hidden, in the description for this video. I suggest you start there. There is also a lot of information archived on EEVBLOG about the tests I have ran. If you have questions after doing a little homework, feel free to ask.
Hola muy buenas soy electricista y me gustaría comprarme un multímetro fluke 87V que le parece a usted o me recomienda otro para mí profesión
I can't understand why you are testing 1-2 kV rated multimeters with 5 kV.
That's a fairly common comment and covered in the FAQ. I actually test many of them to much levels.
I already had eBay listings pulled up on this meter from everything you've shown in the video, right up until the very end. The price difference between this meter and the Hioki 4256 that I was looking to buy wasn't all that significant to me and the extra functionality and precision is definitely handy... such as the triple display for AC+DC, a good diode test range, seeminly responsive continuity, high contrast display, good battery life, responsive bar graph, high~ish frequency counter etc. I use an Amprobe 38XR-A as a "go to" meter which is a good all around meter, just a bit dated at this point. So... you're a terrible person. Way to ruin my fun. Hahah just kidding of course.. but wow that's a real shame. What are the characteristics of that grill igniter? Rise time/voltage? I wonder if there's some capacitive coupling due to the fast transient that simply glitched it. I hope it's not actually dead and salvageable after a full reset. After the pulse, the LCD still seems to be "on" but frozen in the video, with just the backlight being off..
+whatlions After I shot the video, I pulled both batteries, let it set then reinstalled. Dead. Not just back light, really dead. I had measured that grill starter at one time. I'll see if I can find some of the data and post in on the eevblog site.
+joe smith Super unfortunate. Maybe the clamping was just too slow.. or that protection circuitry took a day off. Hope you can get a warranty repair out of it. Thank you again for making these videos.
+whatlions I have yet to try and return a meter for warranty as I knowingly have the full intent to test them to failure. The only time I even considered this is with Brymen and that was only because I had an open dialog going with them. It is rare that a company will respond to my emails. There will be a part 2 for this meter but it will have to wait.
+joe smith I find that in business in general you have to try to engage the right employee at a company to get a dialogue started. If you just end up with some HR/support person, they may not know what to do with your email and not respond. But for non-English speaking companies this is just much harder unfortunately. I've had maybe a 90% response rate whenever I've emailed high ranking people. The problem was always just getting that contact info to begin with and structuring your messages to be concise and to the point. The main thing is just to prove that you're not a crazy person and that there's merit to the dialogue. I look forward to part 2! Thank you for using your own money to do this destructive testing.. not many people would. :/
I am on Mars
Too big