If you want to light the floor, one option I would look at would be mounting the leds at floor level in the surrounding structures. I've worked in a lot of heavy industrial industries and floor level lighting is never on the floor, too easy to break with heavy equipment. Love your work man
I love this hangar! As I'm new to Gunpla and model building, I feel like I need to get a few cool kits decorating my place before I go in for this type of setup. Thanks for showing us what's possible!
I'm guessing there are small 1/8 watt resistors pre-soldered to those LEDs under the heatshrink at their bases. This is a thing some hobby suppliers do. Just saves you a step. I buy my LEDs in bulk and my resistors in bulk. I'll spend $2 on 100 resistors, and $8 for 100 LEDs. You just have to do a little extra work. Since I work in N scale (1/160), I also like to have the LEDs in the models solo, without the resistors, and have the resistor on the other end of the wire, by the power source. You can get what is called a "Proto PCB". The brown single sided ones are super cheap, and if you want higher quality, you can pay extra for the green double sided proto PCBs. Just solder pin headers to the board, solder 1/8 watt through hole resistors of the desired value, connecting each side of the resistor to the appropriate pin header. On the LED side, a second row of pin headers is placed adjacent, and is all wired to either your positive or your ground supply (depending on how you chose to control your LEDs). And example below would show 8 LEDs wired for common ground, and positive control. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 (-) o o o o o o o o o | | | | | | | | | R R R R R R R R | | | | | | | | | | o o o o o o o o | LED (+) o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o--' LED (-) If you use negative control, then just swap all the (+) and (-) wiring. If you get a wire wrap tool, you can directly attach the LED wires, without solder, directly to the pin headers. If you don't have that, you can also buy pin header wire kits. They have the appropriate sockets that plug into pin headers pre-crimped to wires. Cut them in half, strip some insulation, and solder (or twist the wires, like you are doing, either way is fine), and shrink tube the joint. THis lets you plug the LEDs into the board With a cheap label printer, you can even label what LEDs the board controls and apply the labels to the board. As far as power source goes, I just buy cheap off brand Arduinos, and attach the LEDs to the digital outs. That way, I can control the LEDs remotely. You can also use simple switches to control things. If you don't want to deal with programing, and want basic flashing lights, you can either use self flashing LEDs, or you can try using an adjustable 555 timer board. Probably skip the relay versions and go with the smaller no relay version (relays audibly click). You only need a relay for large loads, and LEDs take very little power. A transistor or MOSFET driver is all you need to control LEDs. Many of these boards can be bought pre-assembled for a couple bucks each, and even come with the pin headers, so you can use the pin header jumper wires. You find the jumper wires often listed as "Dupont wire jumpers", "Arduino wire jumpers", or "breadboard wire jumpers". Depending on if you install pin headers or sockets on your boards, you might need "male to female" or "female to female" (giggety). Regarding the topic of 3D printers... I'm personally saving for a resin printer. It'll easily pay for itself in no time, with the things I can make myself, vs what I'd pay buying them. I've seen the prices of some of these "fine detail" pieces, in the model train scene, and I've quickly realized it would literally pay off to just make my own shit. It'll be way cheaper that way. I guess for me, I'm more willing to do the extra wiring work to keep things on the cheap. I also like my LEDs to be more hidden. No light should ever look like an LED. It should look like a modeled light. At N scale sizes, this can be very difficult. It's why I never use resistors (or pre-installed resistors) at the LED. I've ordered plenty of cheap Chinese crap, and even quality domestically sourced parts from distributors like Digikey, Mouser, etc, and even sourced parts from surplus suppliers like Electronics Goldmine, All Electronics, and even local shops (I love this place about 2 hours away from me called Ax-Man. Absolutely crazy stores. See if you have local surplus stores, they can be interesting places).
Go to digikey's website. They have the best search tool. For resistors, Mouse over "Products", "Passives", "Resistors", "Through Hole Resistors", and click. When the page loads, Click the "In Stock" box, and choose "Cut Tape (CT)" under Packaging, "Active" under Part Status, "0.125W, 1/8W" under Power (Watts), and then click the "Apply Filters" button. From there, you'll get a list of a few hundred resistors. Ignore the few specialty ones that are expensive in the list, and pick the value you want. They have a min-max range option under the Resistance search, which is easy enough to use. As of November 2019, if I click a random value, like the 100Ω, you see that the pricing gets better the more you buy. If you buy 100 pieces, it's only $2.01. You could select five different resistance values for a mere $10, and have some options to adjust whether you want an LED to be a little brighter or dimmer. Or you can use Aliexpress and add a zero to the resistor count. Literally 1000 for about $3... Shipped... It's insane that theres even profit in that. I'm more weary of Chinese sourced chips (counterfeits are a huge problem), but resistors tend to be pretty basic, so you're probably okay. Just Google an LED resistance calculator to figure out what value resistor you need. For LEDs, China tends to be a pretty decent source. Both Ebay and Aliexpress tend to be VERY cheap, and you usually get a reasonably decent quality. You can find pre-wired SMT LEDs on ebay for about $15-16 per 20 pieces, shipped from the US (if you provide your own resistor). On Aliexpress, I've found some even more impressive deals. One seller is (currently) selling 100 piece lots of "pre-soldered micro wired LEDs" (I searched "pre-soldered LED 100") for $18-25 depending on size and color. That's DEFINITELY a deal, but be prepared for long shipments and Chinese shenanigans sometimes. Fortunately, Aliexpress tends to be very decent with handling disputes. Just take pics if applicable, describe if something is wrong, and they'll fix it. f you wanna stack LEDs onto a Digikey order, you can certainly give that a shot if you want, but I find Digikey can often be more expensive, sometimes *_A LOT_* more expensive. I rarely order LEDs from Digikey, unless I need a VERY specific color or type, and only if I don't need many. Aliexpress and ebay are also both good sources of "Proto PCB", if you wanna use that too. I got my Arduinos from a brick and mortar store called Microcenter, but ebay and Amazon carry both, and will be good sources. You don't need a name brand one. ny of the clones are fine, and legal. Arduino is an open standard. Means as long as the clone doesn't try to sell itself as an original, it works more or less like an original. One warning about Aliexpress... If you use a VPN, _disable it before logging into their site!_ China don't like VPNs, and unfortunately, that site seems to put your account into lockdown if you happen to sign in from a VPN. It's dumb. They say it's a "security" measure. Seems Digikey won't load if accessed from a known VPN address, but it won't lock your account the way Aliexpress does. It's really dumb.
If you want to light the floor, do some indirect lighting. You could use a stantion or a lightbox extended from the back wall. But the aim is to have a light were you can't see the bulb, just the light that it throws. This way it looks better filming as it won't blind the lens.
topnotch quality diorama itsagundam! THIS IS AWESOME! Add that now you have a camera in your head. **edited** Chest camera. Really got hook on your Gunpla hobby and it shows how amazing it is :D
So cool. I want to do something like this when I get back into building kits. Thanks for the info on the LED you use. I was planning out circuits with resistors, etc. Now I know I don't have to.
I'm not a Gundam fan, not by a mile, never saw the appeal. BUT, i still like the models and the effort put in it, cause i'm still a Hobbyist by the end of the day, i'm a long time WH40k player and collector, so i can appriciate the work some people spent on their Gunpla. And i gotta say, this Diorama is an absolute UNIT, its detailed, realistic, grim and used,and you can see and feel that if it was a real Hangar, it would be practical and realistic, the lights are doing a great job. Its a really worthy piece, good job dude.
Found this only because of that auction you posted on other "main" channel. This is amazing man. Its beautiful. Ive always appreciated the background parts of a diorama more so than whatever is the featured part.
Damn fine light set up in the hangar sir! Been meaning to try out LED lighting for a couple of projects....but I've been mostly scavving mine out of Christmas ornaments and whatever else has 'em. But yours looks professional, hats off to you!
beautiful and very professionally built, class! Someday I'm going to build something like that ... Which lens and camera do you actually use, tight images!
@@ItsAGunpla i think he means that you said around 3:08 that he best way to go about it would be a soldering iron. I was going to comment on this, maybe you meant to say heat gun.
I know I'm late to the comment party, but I've recently found your channel. Have you seen videos from Luke Towan? He is a highly skilled diorama creator, and his videos help with my decisions on certain set ups. I feel some of his lighting techniques would come in handy for your future endeavors. I like his subway video.
I dont know if this will work on that small of a scale, but I work with 10 to 22 AWG power wire alot. To twist them together I take the black and red wire and tighten the ends in a cordless drill and let it spin while keeping tension on the spools. It's easiest with 2 people but you can do it and make it look like factory-twist with practice. Thanks for vid papa Gundam!
Bro this is amazing work. My bank account won’t like it and my wife might even divorce me but oh well I could always remarry I see a lot of guys using this as an outlet for depression and honestly I could use some help so I’m gonna start model building again starting with the Sazabi Ver ka
You do you boo, always. Tho are heat guns not more easy to manage and pretty cheap these days for arts and crafts level tools? No Fuel costs and management, pretty easy on electricity. If you light the floor I'd say less is more. Perhaps spotlights in the corners of the Mech Bay, and/or Just Ramp and Walkway highlights. And lastly my dude, all you do is appreciated and if I had any dollars to give I'd be delighted to give them to you.
I think the reason why Evan design doesn't want to solder the wire cause it can easily melt the solder on the led as their wires are good conductor of heat.
What would look cool is if you can get a shot/some shots from the actual worker model figurines eye level perspective, instead of just the usual panning shot. Would give a great idea of just how big these gundam really are.
I know you wouldn't, but I'd really love to see what a kitbash from you would look like. You seem like the type who'd end up going over the top in the best ways.
@@ItsAGunpla It would be really super slick to see WIP posts/videos in that case! Especially since that's a custom I'd really like myself :P Might steal-I mean be inspired by your work.
Man what a coincidence! I was looking on Evan's website to buy leds to lit up a MG unicorn/nu gundam. Only thing that im concerned of is that, costing that much and you know, which size should i buy for those two suits? Any suggestions?
That's good to hear that LED wiring is easier. But still, I don't have the confidence or tools to do even these easier LED work. That's cool that you get the LEDs from the same place as Otaku Builder. I also watch his videos and I'm always impressed. These must be good quality if both of you guys use it. Thanks for giving us a quick overview of how you do your LED work. I've always wondered how you did it and made it come out so good. Buy a 3D printer... LOL Aren't those like a mini fortune?
ItsAGunpla so all details (people railings and trucks) are from HO? How out of scale are these for 1/144 scale Gumplas? You have other details for the 1/144 scale?
ok i must be dumb. how exactly do you power them? Ive never fkd with LED's before. would be a better alternative than buying bandais expensive af LEDs for kits if i could figure this stuff out. oh. also that diorama is amazing. i dont think anyone on youtube has you beat.
hot pepperoni JENIC, Mussasino Pla, NoriTv, Gunpla Lab, Bunker Pla, Ravi Pla, check the suggested after you search those, you will find more. Jenic is probably my fav though.
Thank u for this. Still the best English Gunpla UA-camr ever!!
The gundam music at the end
:3 what a compliment
If you want to light the floor, one option I would look at would be mounting the leds at floor level in the surrounding structures. I've worked in a lot of heavy industrial industries and floor level lighting is never on the floor, too easy to break with heavy equipment. Love your work man
That is a good idea
I love this hangar! As I'm new to Gunpla and model building, I feel like I need to get a few cool kits decorating my place before I go in for this type of setup. Thanks for showing us what's possible!
Came in on Bob Ross of Gunpla vid and man the evolution is unreal and a pleasure to watch the work that goes into it.
You can use heat guns used to bend pvc pipes for those shrink tubing. They're quite cheap and almost always available in hardware stores.
its about time I got one
hey gundam, thanks for putting this much effort. i really appreciate your channels and the work you have done
I am pushing the English gunpla community into the future watch others adopt my approach I guarentee it.
Also if you are building 1/144th scale Gumpla, it's the same as N scale model trains(1/160th scale).
I'm guessing there are small 1/8 watt resistors pre-soldered to those LEDs under the heatshrink at their bases. This is a thing some hobby suppliers do. Just saves you a step. I buy my LEDs in bulk and my resistors in bulk. I'll spend $2 on 100 resistors, and $8 for 100 LEDs. You just have to do a little extra work. Since I work in N scale (1/160), I also like to have the LEDs in the models solo, without the resistors, and have the resistor on the other end of the wire, by the power source. You can get what is called a "Proto PCB". The brown single sided ones are super cheap, and if you want higher quality, you can pay extra for the green double sided proto PCBs. Just solder pin headers to the board, solder 1/8 watt through hole resistors of the desired value, connecting each side of the resistor to the appropriate pin header. On the LED side, a second row of pin headers is placed adjacent, and is all wired to either your positive or your ground supply (depending on how you chose to control your LEDs).
And example below would show 8 LEDs wired for common ground, and positive control.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 (-)
o o o o o o o o o
| | | | | | | | |
R R R R R R R R |
| | | | | | | | |
o o o o o o o o | LED (+)
o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o--' LED (-)
If you use negative control, then just swap all the (+) and (-) wiring.
If you get a wire wrap tool, you can directly attach the LED wires, without solder, directly to the pin headers. If you don't have that, you can also buy pin header wire kits. They have the appropriate sockets that plug into pin headers pre-crimped to wires. Cut them in half, strip some insulation, and solder (or twist the wires, like you are doing, either way is fine), and shrink tube the joint. THis lets you plug the LEDs into the board With a cheap label printer, you can even label what LEDs the board controls and apply the labels to the board.
As far as power source goes, I just buy cheap off brand Arduinos, and attach the LEDs to the digital outs. That way, I can control the LEDs remotely. You can also use simple switches to control things. If you don't want to deal with programing, and want basic flashing lights, you can either use self flashing LEDs, or you can try using an adjustable 555 timer board. Probably skip the relay versions and go with the smaller no relay version (relays audibly click). You only need a relay for large loads, and LEDs take very little power. A transistor or MOSFET driver is all you need to control LEDs. Many of these boards can be bought pre-assembled for a couple bucks each, and even come with the pin headers, so you can use the pin header jumper wires. You find the jumper wires often listed as "Dupont wire jumpers", "Arduino wire jumpers", or "breadboard wire jumpers". Depending on if you install pin headers or sockets on your boards, you might need "male to female" or "female to female" (giggety).
Regarding the topic of 3D printers... I'm personally saving for a resin printer. It'll easily pay for itself in no time, with the things I can make myself, vs what I'd pay buying them. I've seen the prices of some of these "fine detail" pieces, in the model train scene, and I've quickly realized it would literally pay off to just make my own shit. It'll be way cheaper that way.
I guess for me, I'm more willing to do the extra wiring work to keep things on the cheap. I also like my LEDs to be more hidden. No light should ever look like an LED. It should look like a modeled light. At N scale sizes, this can be very difficult. It's why I never use resistors (or pre-installed resistors) at the LED. I've ordered plenty of cheap Chinese crap, and even quality domestically sourced parts from distributors like Digikey, Mouser, etc, and even sourced parts from surplus suppliers like Electronics Goldmine, All Electronics, and even local shops (I love this place about 2 hours away from me called Ax-Man. Absolutely crazy stores. See if you have local surplus stores, they can be interesting places).
Jesus wept. Thanks for that detail. Do you have recommends on where to buy the items you referenced?
Go to digikey's website. They have the best search tool.
For resistors, Mouse over "Products", "Passives", "Resistors", "Through Hole Resistors", and click.
When the page loads, Click the "In Stock" box, and choose "Cut Tape (CT)" under Packaging, "Active" under Part Status, "0.125W, 1/8W" under Power (Watts), and then click the "Apply Filters" button. From there, you'll get a list of a few hundred resistors. Ignore the few specialty ones that are expensive in the list, and pick the value you want. They have a min-max range option under the Resistance search, which is easy enough to use. As of November 2019, if I click a random value, like the 100Ω, you see that the pricing gets better the more you buy. If you buy 100 pieces, it's only $2.01. You could select five different resistance values for a mere $10, and have some options to adjust whether you want an LED to be a little brighter or dimmer.
Or you can use Aliexpress and add a zero to the resistor count. Literally 1000 for about $3... Shipped... It's insane that theres even profit in that. I'm more weary of Chinese sourced chips (counterfeits are a huge problem), but resistors tend to be pretty basic, so you're probably okay.
Just Google an LED resistance calculator to figure out what value resistor you need.
For LEDs, China tends to be a pretty decent source. Both Ebay and Aliexpress tend to be VERY cheap, and you usually get a reasonably decent quality. You can find pre-wired SMT LEDs on ebay for about $15-16 per 20 pieces, shipped from the US (if you provide your own resistor). On Aliexpress, I've found some even more impressive deals. One seller is (currently) selling 100 piece lots of "pre-soldered micro wired LEDs" (I searched "pre-soldered LED 100") for $18-25 depending on size and color. That's DEFINITELY a deal, but be prepared for long shipments and Chinese shenanigans sometimes. Fortunately, Aliexpress tends to be very decent with handling disputes. Just take pics if applicable, describe if something is wrong, and they'll fix it.
f you wanna stack LEDs onto a Digikey order, you can certainly give that a shot if you want, but I find Digikey can often be more expensive, sometimes *_A LOT_* more expensive. I rarely order LEDs from Digikey, unless I need a VERY specific color or type, and only if I don't need many.
Aliexpress and ebay are also both good sources of "Proto PCB", if you wanna use that too.
I got my Arduinos from a brick and mortar store called Microcenter, but ebay and Amazon carry both, and will be good sources. You don't need a name brand one. ny of the clones are fine, and legal. Arduino is an open standard. Means as long as the clone doesn't try to sell itself as an original, it works more or less like an original.
One warning about Aliexpress... If you use a VPN, _disable it before logging into their site!_ China don't like VPNs, and unfortunately, that site seems to put your account into lockdown if you happen to sign in from a VPN. It's dumb. They say it's a "security" measure. Seems Digikey won't load if accessed from a known VPN address, but it won't lock your account the way Aliexpress does. It's really dumb.
Youve come a long way dude, i didnt think you were going to do a diarama at first but look at this??! Its badass.
If you want to light the floor, do some indirect lighting. You could use a stantion or a lightbox extended from the back wall. But the aim is to have a light were you can't see the bulb, just the light that it throws. This way it looks better filming as it won't blind the lens.
topnotch quality diorama itsagundam! THIS IS AWESOME!
Add that now you have a camera in your head. **edited** Chest camera.
Really got hook on your Gunpla hobby and it shows how amazing it is :D
makes it easier for people to see.
@@ItsAGunpla great video. Love the look of your kits and background structures.
Cool man, I’ve been thinking of adding lighting to my hangar 🤓
Just watched this video man and can wait for that next diorama ... love your stuff
So cool. I want to do something like this when I get back into building kits. Thanks for the info on the LED you use. I was planning out circuits with resistors, etc. Now I know I don't have to.
Oh I've been waiting for something like this PapaG. Thanks for uploading stuff like this and not just the reviews
I'm not a Gundam fan, not by a mile, never saw the appeal.
BUT, i still like the models and the effort put in it, cause i'm still a Hobbyist by the end of the day, i'm a long time WH40k player and collector, so i can appriciate the work some people spent on their Gunpla.
And i gotta say, this Diorama is an absolute UNIT, its detailed, realistic, grim and used,and you can see and feel that if it was a real Hangar, it would be practical and realistic, the lights are doing a great job.
Its a really worthy piece, good job dude.
Found this only because of that auction you posted on other "main" channel. This is amazing man. Its beautiful. Ive always appreciated the background parts of a diorama more so than whatever is the featured part.
Damn fine light set up in the hangar sir! Been meaning to try out LED lighting for a couple of projects....but I've been mostly scavving mine out of Christmas ornaments and whatever else has 'em. But yours looks professional, hats off to you!
Thank you for another delicious meal papa Gundam
Looks amazing, I'm totally blown away, very nice dude.
beautiful and very professionally built, class!
Someday I'm going to build something like that ...
Which lens and camera do you actually use, tight images!
Thanks for showing us this, it's so cool! I literally have no clue how you could top this diorama, but go ahead, surprise us! ;)
THERE'S A GUNDAM DOWN HERE!
Professional handyman
I wouldn't go that far lol.
Your hangar is awesome man keep it up
Wouldn't using a heat gun be a better option for the tubing?
Used whad I had on hand
@@ItsAGunpla i think he means that you said around 3:08 that he best way to go about it would be a soldering iron. I was going to comment on this, maybe you meant to say heat gun.
I know I'm late to the comment party, but I've recently found your channel. Have you seen videos from Luke Towan? He is a highly skilled diorama creator, and his videos help with my decisions on certain set ups. I feel some of his lighting techniques would come in handy for your future endeavors. I like his subway video.
I dont know if this will work on that small of a scale, but I work with 10 to 22 AWG power wire alot. To twist them together I take the black and red wire and tighten the ends in a cordless drill and let it spin while keeping tension on the spools. It's easiest with 2 people but you can do it and make it look like factory-twist with practice.
Thanks for vid papa Gundam!
starting mine now!!!
A space feature would look noice.
I don't do gunpla. But jokes on you Gundam. Your wallet is already dead xD
Dude that is so dope amazeballs,holy f@$k. Love this channel ,you rock man great job
Bro this is amazing work. My bank account won’t like it and my wife might even divorce me but oh well I could always remarry I see a lot of guys using this as an outlet for depression and honestly I could use some help so I’m gonna start model building again starting with the Sazabi Ver ka
keep up the good work man, so impressive, respect
Hi I am new to gunpla and by far this is my favorite channel... o have heard of other channels by you, how can I find them
Good bday video for me 😁, great video!!!! Makes me excited to build mine
You do you boo, always. Tho are heat guns not more easy to manage and pretty cheap these days for arts and crafts level tools? No Fuel costs and management, pretty easy on electricity. If you light the floor I'd say less is more. Perhaps spotlights in the corners of the Mech Bay, and/or Just Ramp and Walkway highlights. And lastly my dude, all you do is appreciated and if I had any dollars to give I'd be delighted to give them to you.
Awesome work bro.. kip it up..
Holy fuck dude that looks fucking bad ass
You have strong-looking hands. Notice me senpai ;)
*rubs head with hands* lmao
I think the reason why Evan design doesn't want to solder the wire cause it can easily melt the solder on the led as their wires are good conductor of heat.
I really love your work thanks for sharing!
What would look cool is if you can get a shot/some shots from the actual worker model figurines eye level perspective, instead of just the usual panning shot.
Would give a great idea of just how big these gundam really are.
Little hard with the size of my camera lens it's as big as a wing 1/100 scale kit
Do you mind to tell me where did you get the truck and the oil drum?
Hey ItsAGunpla, how are you powering all these LEDs? Is it from one power source?
Looks amazing
Amazing job pappa gundam
Is all of your LED lights and the flashing ones are connected to a usb as a power source?
Pretty dam cool I think love your videos
You . . . think?
I know you wouldn't, but I'd really love to see what a kitbash from you would look like. You seem like the type who'd end up going over the top in the best ways.
I already have my kit bash parts in the back room I'm going to make an RG GPO3
@@ItsAGunpla It would be really super slick to see WIP posts/videos in that case! Especially since that's a custom I'd really like myself :P Might steal-I mean be inspired by your work.
what are the stairs you have along the left-side of the cage?
I have two American Eskimos. Named Flurry and Ghost.
Appreciate ya bruv!
I love your work
Man what a coincidence! I was looking on Evan's website to buy leds to lit up a MG unicorn/nu gundam. Only thing that im concerned of is that, costing that much and you know, which size should i buy for those two suits? Any suggestions?
I'd ho nano
That's good to hear that LED wiring is easier.
But still, I don't have the confidence or tools to do even these easier LED work.
That's cool that you get the LEDs from the same place as Otaku Builder.
I also watch his videos and I'm always impressed.
These must be good quality if both of you guys use it.
Thanks for giving us a quick overview of how you do your LED work.
I've always wondered how you did it and made it come out so good.
Buy a 3D printer... LOL
Aren't those like a mini fortune?
@xxnike629xx Do you want to buy a *BOX* of a 3D Printer? I heard its *BOX* is big too 😸😹😸😹
Scratch - so what scale is the tank container you have in the hanger? The Vangood I think it says.
HO scale
ItsAGunpla so all details (people railings and trucks) are from HO? How out of scale are these for 1/144 scale Gumplas? You have other details for the 1/144 scale?
DUDE THAT IS SO FUCKING SICK TIGHT!
ok i must be dumb. how exactly do you power them? Ive never fkd with LED's before. would be a better alternative than buying bandais expensive af LEDs for kits if i could figure this stuff out.
oh. also that diorama is amazing. i dont think anyone on youtube has you beat.
I did say 12volt, but I didnt show that part so thats on me for missing an important part.
@@ItsAGunpla nah not entirely man, i dont get electronics and wiring and shit at all.
i need to do my own research into it though
Where can i buy this hangar
Is there a link to buy this hangar.. thx guys
Cool
I remember you saying that there are a lot of good Korean gunpla builders, so would you mind telling me the names of a few of them?
hot pepperoni JENIC, Mussasino Pla, NoriTv, Gunpla Lab, Bunker Pla, Ravi Pla, check the suggested after you search those, you will find more. Jenic is probably my fav though.
@@thebigbient8736 thank you
thanks papa
Neat vid
Does anyone know any gunplay or mecha models related discord server? I am looking for one
Honestly I would Google it. Or go on like a gunpla forum
Why are these videos better muted?
Heat gun is what I have always used. Always worked for me and no fire.
People will not know what hit them........... neither will my wallet. HA !!!!!!
No access to evan design in SE asia ;(
im still working on mine since march. ive a roof on mine but think it gets over lit
I made the mistake, or well informed decision, of buying some gundams for me and the kiddo. Ughh, i need to get rid of a hobby.