Bosch Front Load Washing Machine Door Gasket -- How to Install
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2017
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I wanted to give a tip for those that have a hard time with the back spring retainer wire. I could not stretch the spring for the life of me (female, even though I tried in a vice grip too). I bought a tool on Amazon to stretch it but the tool points were too big. So I used 2 knitting needles (size 3) to stretch it. You can by hand if you are strong enough. I stepped on one needle and pulled up with the other. Actually stretched it easily too far, lol, luckily had a back-up spring. But it was very easy. I did bend one knitting needle but they are very cheap to replace. I hope that helps someone.
For those of you that want to now how to get the front panel off, go to this video "Bosch Washer Repair - How to Replace the Drain Pump (Bosch # 00436440)" There are 4 screws that need to be removed. He also demonstrates how to put on the 2nd Band.
6/6/20: Ours is an old Bosch Nexxt 500 Series: Washer Model: WFMC3301UC/04. Your good video with another definitely helped me today, as I successfully replaced the door seal (gasket) and two spring and wire loops to secure the seal in place. In the case of my particular model, like others who have commented, I had an absolute mind-blowing bear of a time putting on the smaller, outer spring and wire loop. The larger, inner spring and wire loop was also difficult, but much easier than the smaller, outer booger, which nearly prompted my white flag of surrender after five grueling hours of trial and error, cut and sore hands, and many new bad, hyphenated words I concocted along the way. Cutting to the chase, here is how I finally succeeded - with no extra hands to help: I first got the rubber seal or "gasket" in place on the inner plastic door frame, "securely" seated in proper position on the many plastic catches (like many "lips") around the circumference of the hole. As I sat on the front of the seat of a small, low, folding card table chair, facing the washer with its door wide open and out of the way to the left, and with my left leg a little forward of my right, I positioned my body, weight, and my left knee ready to lean forward into the seal to press on it and hold it as low as I could get it - at around the 8 o'clock position - for when I would get the wire in its groove at that area. I held the spring and wire loop in my left hand with my left hand around 10 or 11 o'clock and the spring oriented downward at about 6 o'clock, so it would fit where designated by instructions. With that ready on the left, I had a flat head screwdriver in my right hand (I am right handed), and also with my right hand, was holding the spring loop at around 1 or 2 o'clock. Next, slowly and carefully, I first started putting the spring wire loop in its groove at 12 o'clock. Keeping a careful, constant, slightly firm, and deliberate downward pull with my left and right hands - avoiding slack in the wire and never applying too much pull, and always keeping the remaining spring wire loop very - very close to the rubber seal as I worked, got the loop in the groove to around 8 o'clock on the left and 4 o'clock on the right. Then, I leaned my left knee forward, pinning the rubber seal with spring wire loop in the groove at about 8 o'clock. Now, carefully - slowly - firmly everywhere, keeping my left knee pressing forward to hold things together over there at 8 o'clock, I temporarily used my left hand to press and hold the rubber seal (gasket) with wire in groove at 4 o'clock, while I carefully - carefully put the flathead screwdriver between the wire loop and rubber seal at around 4:30, and started to work the wire into the groove (working my way clockwise) - while also tending to the wire on the left from around 8 o'clock to 6 o'clock, and with considerably more downward force toward the very end only, getting the spring over the rubber seal near 6 o'clock. Basically, using my left knee as my extra "hand," this finally became doable. I pray that I will need to buy a new washer nexxt time the seal starts leaking. Good luck.
Thanks for the video, the only one I found that explains the trouble with this kind of spring. (Reminder to myself, when shopping for a new washing machine, check the spring design, this is the worst.)
Thanks for posting this. I also checked the absorbing shocks and end up replacing them at the same time while I had a front off. I realized a few guys had a problems removing the front cover. In my case there were two rivets that you have to drill out at the bottom of cover.
Nice job Marko,
Thanks so much for your input.
How do you check the shocks?
great video that helped me fix the washing machine dirt cheap and in less time than to find a competent repairman
Thanks so much 😊👍
I couldn't get the door off either but managed to shimmy everything into place anyway. Thanks for the help on this!
Nicely done😊
Thanks for the video! Getting the front panel off didn't work out for me, it was weird it had a L bracket thing at the bottom with 4 screws connecting it to the rest of the unit. I didn't have a 90 degree driver on hand so I just pulled the top out a good bit and then was able to get the seal in.
Nice job👍
Benjamin Fugate Mine has the same kind of bracket on the bottom and has two torques drive screws on the bottom.
this video was perfect, except where I got stuck was installing that last outer spring which wasn't covered in this video. I couldn't get the outside spring on even with the help of another person. Tried soap, tried using the original spring, tried various tools. No luck. What ended up working in less than a minute was using multiple clamps. This is for the outside spring. I would line a spring up at the bottom, then start at the top center. Clamp there. Then run it along the sides to 9:00 and 3:00, and then clamp there then continue further down, and clamp again. Once the sides were clamped I was able to take the top one at 12:00 off and use it further down. I would just continue this until I got to just the spring and then pull the spring right over. Hope that helps others!
Nice job😊
Yes, I just had the same problem with the outer gasket and the clamps are the only solution. Thanks
Thanks for doing the video. Great to beable to see what you see. Don't get that much. Hands free. Just got a washer used. Be back to learn more
Thanks so much Adam✨😊
Your a good teacher. Thank you.
Thanks so much Tom😊😊😊
I too wasn't able to get the front panel off.. just worked it in with my hands and a screwdriver. Took some work, but eventually got it past the concrete stabilizers and onto the back groove. Rear spring was easy. Front spring was a bit more challenging. I suggest working from the top, down to the spring. Seemed to work best for me. 2 hours from start to finish, although I did waste about 30-45 minutes trying to figure out how to get the front panel off before I quit that route.
Did you use screwdrivers for the front spring?
@@ckyana no.. Just kept trying to keep it on when pulling. A 2nd set of hands would help. It tends to slip off when you try to connect the ends.
I am stuck on the front panel too. Been nice if he had included that in the video.
To put the wire and spring on - we bent the hook up that holds the spring to the wire. We unhooked one side of the spring, looped thick string through the spring (made a bowline knot) and pulled the spring back to the hook. We connected the spring and the hook and pushed the hook back down. The liquid was a great idea that we tried also, but this needed more brute force.
Nice job
I’ve done this twice now and just was watching the video as a refresher. What helped me get the spring on last time for the outer part of the boot was to make a homemade “spreader”. I basically used two 1 1/2” drywall screws driven all the way into a 1/2” short piece of wood so the screws were sticking out the back about 1”. I hooked One end of the spring on the one screw and pulled the other end onto the second screw to keep it stretched while I easily slipped the wire over the boot. When I wanted to release the spring and let it retract into place, I just needed to unscrew one of the screws from the board. Easy Peezy!
Where do u buy this? Link please
Scott my Bosch Nexxt Model WFMC2100uc does not have the two screws that secure the front panel but plastic clips. How do you manage to remove with clips?
Ron Fullerm
Please can you tell me which year is this model is?
Mine has like 2 zip tie looking screws on each side on the inside of the front panel, restricting me from taking it off >< advice?
It’s ok to bend it down to around 80 degrees to give you access .
Which year they make this Model?
So I recently replaced mine, this video was certainly helpful. The issue I ran into was after replacing the gasket, the lock mechanism is struggling to lock and unlock. You have to hold the door closed for it to lock and when the wash cycle is complete it buzzes when trying to release and you have to do the same thing. Seems like a combination of door sag and tight new gasket. Any suggestions?
Taking the concrete counterweights off was a must for me.
You might try using a blow dryer to heat up the door gasket for about 10 minutes as you move the hair dryer around the perimeter of the door gasket to soften up the rubber and then close the door on the rubber gasket and keep it tightly shut using inward pressure and duct tape for a few hours.
That should help to shape the door gasket so that it doesn’t push out against the door as much.
@Scott The Fix-It Guy DIY Appliance Videos Scott, just seeing this reply, late TY. Now the lock won't open. I assume it has failed and it's locked shut. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
The video skips important four more screws (top left&right; bottom center) on removing the front panel. Also the keyhole attachment design. Trying to do this job without removing the panel and you will get bloodied trying to work the spring. At least I did.
Hi... How many days to change gasket rubber in front load washing machines... Pls give me reply..
You can do it in 45 minutes.
A COUPLE TIPS after doing this repair . . . My entire front panel also didn't mysteriously disappear after removing the two screws at the bottom. Per the advice in comments (from JHZR2 under Tin Nguyen's question - "how do you get the front panel off"), don't try to remove the entire front panel, just the door and center insert - 8 screws and you're in business. From there you have plenty of room - but be warned that with the insert out, the exposed sheet metal edges are sharp! Definitely remove the weights - with them out of the way I had the gasket and inner ring in place in just a few minutes. The outer ring is much harder to get back on - I recommend a helper to press the ring into the groove while you stretch the spring apart with a couple tools - I used some hook shaped picks, but needle nose pliers or smallish screwdrivers should work too. Good Luck!!
Like others, I had trouble getting the outer spring on. Cleaned and lubed the gasket channel and spring with dishwashing soap, then unhooked one end of the spring, guided the wire into the channel all the way to the spring, then grabbed the spring and the wire with pliers and re-hooked. Took me about 10 tries to get it to re-hook, and if you go this route I recommend safety glasses, as the reason it took so many tries is the spring or wire would slip at the last second, and it's obviously under tension.
Nice job Tom😊
I gave a BOSCH NEXXT PREMIER. The washer was overloaded and forced the timed door lock to fail and the door open. All videos say I can change the mechanism by undoing 2 screws and it pops right out. Mine does not pop out, but seems secured to the unit. It is at least 14 years old. HowdoI get the locking latch off? HELP!
Does this help: How To Fix A Bosch Washer DOOR LOCK
How To Fix A Bosch Washer DOOR LOCK
ua-cam.com/video/c2SSmd5jMQw/v-deo.html
What part # is the gasket?
00667487
How do you get the front panel off?
Once the 4 screws are removed, you just pull it up by making sure the 4 clips on top are out of the slots and then pull the entire panel out.
@@DiyEndeavours You have to have the special tool to take the four screws and unhooking the door lock mechanism wiring harness from the front panel
Its more than just the 2 bottom machine screw. There's at least 2 more at the top. Then there looks to be some plastic hooks on the inside on both sides. Also, mine to looks like its riveted at the bottom. Going to try to squeeze on without taking off the front cover. This video would have been better if it addressed the front cover in more detail.
Front panel does not have to come off. Just use your fingernails to work the gasket over the lip from the inside of the gasket, inch by inch. Slowly, takes about 1/2 hour. Then use 2 screwdriver (blade end) to force the clamp on. Helps to lock one side with a third screwdriver as shown in this video. Don't use the other 2 as levers as shown by this video. The hardest part is the outer clamp. Any ideas?
Just remove the front insert, the whole panel doesn’t have to come off. Remove the door (four screws on the door itself, two for the hinge), then the two screws at the latch, and the whole white plastic insert will come off.
Notice you left out the front panel removal. That’s the hardest part so why didn’t you put that in the video?
yep Same question???
The outer spring is the hardest part for me
It really helps to coat it in liquid detergent .
Scottthefixitguy i got it on with my sisters help. So hopefully ill never need to use that. Because i hated this project
how the fuck does that help??
I watched my local authorized repaid guy replace the seal without taking anything (other than the seal itself) apart. The spring is a pain in the ass.....
Obviously super edited to keep short. Needs more attention to taking the top, front, and door... He skipped all of those steps. When you get to the point where you put the deep spring back, just take off the weights. Makes it so much easier. The door gasket spring is a super pain and will require a second set of hands to seat it without pulling the gasket out repeatedly ... Doable in an hour and a half.