Thank you for your very helpful information on repairing the battery management board.I have an EGO BA1120 2.0AH battery that the red led was on constantly. I checked the MJD117 transistor and found that there was a short between the emitter and the collector. I ordered the MJD117 and was able to replace the one on the board. I had purchased another BA1120 that wouldn't take a charge. When I connected the battery management board from this one to my original battery the green led was constantly lit. This board had a the same short on the MJD117. It was interesting to see the same short in the MJD117 causing the red led or green led to be lit.
How the ridgid cordless brushless hyperdrive nail gun works is that it uses a pair of pistons that draw a vacuum to shoot and drive nails into the work surface.
I gave up on my repair, and just harvested the 18650 cells for use in a couple of USB power packs. I almost gave up as the cells didn’t fit till I realized that you have to remove the outer plastic and that state change material. I had a very difficult time removing the material in the first battery till I realized, you can just slid it off..
michael charach, sorry to hear that the repair was a no go. Yeah, always a bright side, the cells are great to reuse. The state change sleeves just slide off easy unless the cells has gotten hot enough to melt it. When it solidifies back it is stuck pretty bad.
Howdy Thrifty, Ive been trying to buy some used batteries to do just as you are here BC being on a fixed income i can sit and diagnose and fix them if they are not too severe so i could have a second battery BC i know with the Fl summer coming and my SON leaving tools out side I am sure he will cook the dang thing in a year! Yours Green Blinking I thought right away it was a wire back out ...but because they were sealed i wasn't sure you were gonna even play with them after you got the Replacement one. Heck I know I would after i had one coming Because it would let me poke around and see if I could fix it and know for future when they do run past warranty if ide need new one or could fix older ones. keep up the great work young man! Cow}:-o)
I have noticed lately that it's harder to find them on eBay for parts as cheap as they used to be. I would like a couple more just to have the spare cells but I will not pay to much for them because I just don't know how long they were in storage. If the same shorted transistor issue on them that means they have pulled down way to low to be good spare cells! Thanks for your comment and best of uck!
The UA-camr “jehugarcia” specializes in harvesting 18650 cells from overstock and used applications. He has a lot of videos on how to sort them and has links on where to buy them as deal come up. He often has new cells for about $1.5 per cell. Just an idea on where you could find new cells for an old pack. Not sure if it is with all of the soldering.
Do you know of any company or person who repairs EGO batteries? I have a 7.5 aH and used it for about four years so it is out of warranty. It seems EGO has no exchange or repair service. The battery has been charged about 150 times and only lasts about 25-30 minutes. When new, I could cut my entire yard on one charge, even while using the self-propel feature. Now I have to recharge twice to finish - 3 total. EGO said the battery should last 300-500 charges, so I am reluctant to lay down $349 for a new one after only half of the expected life from the original. Cheers, Fred
Hey, thank you for your videos and tutorials! You make it easy for even a layman to understand what you are talking about. I have a Ego 2.5 AH battery that I have used for about 3 years. I’m contacting Ego about a replacement but no success yet with COVID wait times. Right now the battery will charge on the charger and run in my blower. However the green light is blinking on it non-stop and the battery is draining down even when not in use. It had stopped charging and blinking completely recently but I did some trouble shooting and got it back to charging and blinking today. Do you know what the problem could be based on this blinking green light? The voltage across the terminals is 56.6. Any advice you can recommend? Anything I can test with a standard multimeter? Thank you.
I took my battery pack apart and every cell is bulged. None of the cells have a sharp shoulder like the batteries in your video. It checks at 32V when I check across the positive and negative terminals. I checked the bottom pack and each pack checks at 3.6 to 3.7 V the top pack checks .3-.8V per cell. Is the pack shot and not repairable?
Most likely yes the pack is basically shot. If you try to charge up (boost) the low cells to see if they will take a charge they might but chances are the capacity will be low and cells will most likely get unbalanced easily. If you like working on these things at least you have some spare out of it. If you do not like keeping the spare parts around these packs can still bring some money on eBay even non-working. Best of luck to ya!
Hi, thanks for your kind comments. I have not had luck buying any new replacement parts. I have had luck at times buying packs from eBay or market place if you watch for good prices. Bad packs can eventually get a good supply of spare parts. I even capacity test the cells and log which ones have a certain level of capacity left, internal resistance etc. and of course you can end up with spare connector boards etc. I have had to use a fuse link in the past to replace a fuse. I have had luck once also finding a used EGO pack in a recycle bin at the hardware store. I am always allowed to get them if I ask the manager. Since the pandemic, I have not found many batteries in the recycle bin unfortunately. Best of luck to ya!
You stated experiencing 3 different issues... can you tell me which issue caused a solid red led on the battery pack and/ or a solid green on the charger? (I.e. the charger LED stays on solid Green even when the battery is not plugged into it and does nothing else. Solid green at all times) on the battery... the led/ button is solid red when the button is pushed. This seems like a charger issue because of the constant green LED (as if it thinks theres a battery connected) any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Sounds most likely the Charger is the issue. I would absolutely test with another to make sure. At least the base charger is really cheap and if you don't have a spare yourself hopefully a neighbor or family member might?
Do you know the spec's for Q63? The code on this transistor is COPA. I only find 1 junction on this transistor and cannot decode it.How did you decode some of the other SMD's like Q8? Thank you.
I was not able to find info on the Q63 or Q64 but they are the same P/N and mine tested the same when comparing them to each other so I moved on. Mine is actually a COSA but I wonder if the CO is for Custom Ordered etc. It sucks web searches show nothing for it. As far as Q8 mine shows BL and sometimes searching for BL marking! ie: the BCX56-16 shows BL marking in the data sheet. It also helps when I can recognize that it is a SOT89 package when searching. I don't know them all by any means but I know the SOT23 and the differences compared to the larger SOT89 pretty well. Hope it helps (BTW if you can't find the Q64 it is hard to find it is bottom left beside the lower connector!)
I have followed this thread and ordered the MJD117. I fixing to tear down and replace. I just want to say, I don't know if anyone was not being able to charge the battery under the green flashing issue or not ? my charger would just go on and off, so I took it out put it in over and over and until I started holding the button in, in doing so then the charger went steady and charged the battery. of course the flashing green light eventually drained it. sometimes after the charger had charged the battery and stopped, it really did not charge so I repeated and it always charged the second time. Just want to say your help with this is very appreciated.
Thanks for your comment, and just to mention, you are doing great by trying to keep the battery charged. If the cells drop to far the cells will be damaged. And the charger is sensing low voltage and will try to pulse on/off to get the voltage up if it doesn't bump up after a amount of time it will show a faulty pack! Best of luck!
Nice vids. Gives me a slight idea of what to expect. My 5ah battery stopped working one day before the warranty so they are sending a replacement but I wanted to see if it was fixable. Shows 12v full at the slots but won't run the mower. The green button won't light up and the charger just try's for a bit then goes dark. Any suggestions? The Power management board maybe? Have yet to crack it...
Well I would lean toward problem being in the cells or at least one cell. Pack voltage should not get below 35V unless some cells or all cells have gone way to far delepleted. You really do not want cells to go below 2.5 each so 14s or 14 in series would be 35V. 12v is really low!
@@ThriftyToolShed and I'm guessing once a cell drops there is no safe way to kick start it into charging again huh? Thanks for the insight. I at least can go into this knowing it's not a quick fix like a fuse or bad wire.
@@Woffie70 Well typically it is nothing much we can do at that point, lithium has to be kept above 2.5V or so or damage occurs. In rare cases doing what is called boosting will bring a pack back up to a somewhat useful condition. I will put a current limited supply of 1A Constant Current and voltage limit of 4V accross each individual cell and sometimes they will charge back up, of course the cells have to be watched at all times making sure they are not shorted, or getting very hot! Bad news is that almost always some degradation of the cells will be noticed especially with that many cells they will all be different and not well balanced and some will be bad enough that after you charge them they will start to drop off voltage slowly due to internal damage. The pack may even get to the point of usable, but the capacity will be severly reduced. I have been lucky and just 1 or 2 cells dropped off quicker than the rest and by replacing them the capacity is pretty descent!
Michael Hodge, I do not have access to one at the moment. I have several years ago worked on a few ridgid cordless nailers and was very impressed by the engineering inside then. The motor had true speed feedback with an encoder and the cable and piston system was very unexpected. I wish I would have videoed all repairs I have done over the years. Thanks for your request! I will look into it.
Hi all great videos.. i have 2 4ah ego batteries one is charged to 57 volts. But blinks red or orange when pushing button.. will it still work? Why wouldnt it b green? The other is at 8 v . With a power supply at 56v its not charging at all. How could i charge it
If it's 57V, then 56V will not charge it. It's already above that. If you are saying 8V pack will not charge with 56V then test all cells one or more maybe at almost open condition? If blinking red it thinks it has a cell issue. Check individual cells to make sure they are balanced. If blinking orange it could be a thermal issue or it thinks it is. Could be NTC thermistor issue. The BMS board can of course cause this as well if all else checks out. I have taken time to share what I have learned on this one several videos. Hope it helps. Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed I thank you for your response . How can i charge individual cells without taking apart the whole pack. And i could test them on the bms board like you showed i guess. Wish they had a reset like on the newer ryobi 40v. .those are easy.. these are my first 2 56v.
It is no way to charge individual cells without disassembly. After disassembling and separating the halves it is fairly easy, but you have to make sure not to touch other cells or tabs while charging separately also.
Hi, Have you ever come cross a situation that all batteries in the pack (EGO 2.5Ah) were swollen and wouldn't charge. After taking the battery pack apart each cell has a charge of 3.6V and a total charge of 51.2V. Any idea as to what is going on?
When you mention swollen, you mean that the heat absorbing sleeves (phase changing sleeves) are swollen or the cells themselves under the sleeve? When you say would not charge is that just with the EGO charger, you don't mean putting a current limited 4v accross the individual cells and it would not charge right?
@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks for your reply. Yes, each individual cell in both packs (14 of them the cells under the green sleeve) are uniformly swollen. And yes the ego charge wouldn't charge the battery, the green light stay green but very dim. I have tried to charge individual cell as well as a combination of 2, 3 and 4 cells together with 4, 8,12 &16 volt at 1A. it goes through the charge process without any issues but the charging process only takes about 5 to 10 minutes. I wish I could send you a picture of the pack?
I have an issue charging an EGO battery. Although it is flashing green, it is accompanied by a loud clicking (relay) sound from the charger. Any thoughts? Thanks for the great videos!
B Appel, check your voltage of the battery. If it gets pulled down too low. It will do that. It will try to bump it up and then it will error out if not at a acceptable level. Sometimes the cells are beyond help in this case. If you are lucky sometimes bumping the battery up as I did with the Drok can help. Usually it may need individual cells replaced.
My brand new battery is doing this also. They are shipping a new replacement but I tore this one down to check things out. I confirmed each cell is reading exactly the same (around 3.71vdc). The voltages are also present at each of the charging terminals. Nothing happens when I push the power button on the pack (it used to light up green right out the box). The first time I put it on the charger it began to charge and the charger fan was going. Around 15 minutes later it started clicking. At least I have 14 new good cells!
I would be very new to the battery repair game, but I was thinking of getting some bad battery packs and trying to get them whole again, cheapest I found was 25 a battery with shipping, do you think it's worth while to do it? Thank you.
john voigt, I think so, I have noticed the prices on these batteries have gone up on eBay. As always it is a gamble, you don't know for sure how low the cells are. When I ordered 4 I was able to get 3 fully repaired and the 4th one I repaired the BMS to have spare, but used the good cells in it to fix the other 3. Best of luck!
My battery just developed a problem. I've only used it a handful of times (it's its first summer), and all of a sudden it went dead. No lights come on at all, charger won't have anything to do with it. Measured the voltage, it's actually all the way up to 58V! Were any of the batteries you repaired like that? I'm assuming it's a chip or a faulty connection.
Hi, I did not have any exactly like that. First of all it should still be under warranty. Contact ego to get new replacement. Then if they still tell you to keep the old one and recycle it as they did with me last year then open it up. I had one that had a bad fuse on the connect board and it read zero at the connections but all batteries were showing 58v in series once I read a cross all cells before the fuse? I have never had one read 58v at connections and still be bad!
Yes, they are sending me a new one but told me to recycle it! I'm an electrical engineer (industrial controls, not control boards, but I've played a little bit with then in school), so I'm genuinely curious and if I fix it, great! Will open it up once I get my hand on security torx. I doubt it's the fuse, since I read 58V right on the contacts.
nakednhappy, awesome. I feel the same way it will be interesting to see what you find. I have had a few different failures but not exactly like this one. It's a great sign that you have 58v on the cells. Seems like all your cells are in great shape, hopefully. I wonder if it's in the temperature feedback for the pack basically a NTC circuit. Btw, I am like you, I am Industrial electrician and have repaired drives and some boards over the years so more of I hobby for me aslo, and I really enjoy it. Best of luck.
Hard to say, the battery electronics are sealed pretty well. But I have not had a 7.5Ah apart yet to say for sure. Is it trying to charge at all? Any voltage reading at the terminals?Any light showing when the battery charge level indicator pressed?
@@ThriftyToolShed the charge cycle went through a normal process. when we install the battery in the mower the mower starts for about a second and then the battery flashes red then shuts off. no lights on the charge level indicator. as far as voltage at the teminals, can I just touch any two terminals to determine that, with my voltage meter?
You have to touch the (+ and - ) outside two terminals. I have seen bad cells cause the blinking red, the BMS board could cause that and a bad NTC could also cause it. Checking the voltage, if it is around 56-58v then the cells are most likey good. I also have a video about what is the T-terminal that will aid some in trouble shooting the terminators (NTC). Other than that it could possibly be a bad BMS board. Best of luck, I know these packs are not cheap, I have two 5Ah packs but no 7.5 yet!
I keep lots of spare cells from almost new packs parted out as well as other cells tested very well for capacity. I just about always have what I need for spares. I usually do not recommend cells because so many times it's hard to verify that they are not fake cells. The main thing to make sure is that the seller is truly selling genuine cells. I have had great luck using 18650batterystore.com in the past. I share some of this in this video if you find it helpful. ua-cam.com/video/f9SOPVEqgkw/v-deo.html
I have a link in the first Ego pack repair video description. Should be able to find it at any electronics supplier also. Link to the the Q12 replacement I ordered: rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5575400462&toolid=10001&campid=5338325412&customid=&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F1-pcs-Motorola-PNP-2A-100V-Darlington-Power-Transistor-MJD117%2F264256482703%3Fhash%3Ditem3d86e9ed8f%3Ag%3AdakAAOSwK1Rb-sIN
I mentioned in the video called Lithium Battery FAQ#1 how I use spare cells salvaged for mine on these. These are Li-ion 18650 2500mah and every EGO pack I have ever worked on has the 18650 physical size cells. (I do not know what is in the newer 10Ah and larger packs though). It is hard to say for sure which cells are in the packs due to the unmarked cells but we know they are close to 2500mah due to the 2.5ah, 5ah etc. rating. I bought several bad packs from eBay over the last 6 years or so and tested and collected the good cells from some packs while that helped me repair many packs. We know they will be high current cells. We have had some comments from viewers on here saying the cells they thought their packs have..... (Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed) mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
@@ThriftyToolShed thank you so much for the reply. i plan on doing a self repair on my eco battery. hopefully its easier i am working with the 6.0 hopefully it all goes smoothly
Thank you for your very helpful information on repairing the battery management board.I have an EGO BA1120 2.0AH battery that the red led was on constantly. I checked the MJD117 transistor and found that there was a short between the emitter and the collector. I ordered the MJD117 and was able to replace the one on the board. I had purchased another BA1120 that wouldn't take a charge. When I connected the battery management board from this one to my original battery the green led was constantly lit. This board had a the same short on the MJD117. It was interesting to see the same short in the MJD117 causing the red led or green led to be lit.
Interesting, Thanks for your comment!
How the ridgid cordless brushless hyperdrive nail gun works is that it uses a pair of pistons that draw a vacuum to shoot and drive nails into the work surface.
Your instructional are so descriptive and helpful. Much to consider as a newbie lithium repair diy!
Ksax Music, So glad you found it helpful. Thanks for your comment.
Are you on the West Coast? Would enjoy a session with hands on. If that would be something you’d consider. Las Vegas ripekg@me.com
Ksax Music, I’m on the east coast!
I fly to the east coast every now and then. Appreciate all the help sir.
How the porter cable cordless nail gun works is that it uses a flywheel to shoot and drive nails into the work surface.
I gave up on my repair, and just harvested the 18650 cells for use in a couple of USB power packs. I almost gave up as the cells didn’t fit till I realized that you have to remove the outer plastic and that state change material. I had a very difficult time removing the material in the first battery till I realized, you can just slid it off..
michael charach, sorry to hear that the repair was a no go. Yeah, always a bright side, the cells are great to reuse. The state change sleeves just slide off easy unless the cells has gotten hot enough to melt it. When it solidifies back it is stuck pretty bad.
Howdy Thrifty, Ive been trying to buy some used batteries to do just as you are here BC being on a fixed income i can sit and diagnose and fix them if they are not too severe so i could have a second battery BC i know with the Fl summer coming and my SON leaving tools out side I am sure he will cook the dang thing in a year! Yours Green Blinking I thought right away it was a wire back out ...but because they were sealed i wasn't sure you were gonna even play with them after you got the Replacement one. Heck I know I would after i had one coming Because it would let me poke around and see if I could fix it and know for future when they do run past warranty if ide need new one or could fix older ones. keep up the great work young man! Cow}:-o)
I have noticed lately that it's harder to find them on eBay for parts as cheap as they used to be. I would like a couple more just to have the spare cells but I will not pay to much for them because I just don't know how long they were in storage. If the same shorted transistor issue on them that means they have pulled down way to low to be good spare cells! Thanks for your comment and best of uck!
you too young man! Cow}:-o)
The UA-camr “jehugarcia” specializes in harvesting 18650 cells from overstock and used applications. He has a lot of videos on how to sort them and has links on where to buy them as deal come up. He often has new cells for about $1.5 per cell. Just an idea on where you could find new cells for an old pack. Not sure if it is with all of the soldering.
Do you know of any company or person who repairs EGO batteries? I have a 7.5 aH and used it for about four years so it is out of warranty. It seems EGO has no exchange or repair service.
The battery has been charged about 150 times and only lasts about 25-30 minutes. When new, I could cut my entire yard on one charge, even while using the self-propel feature. Now I have to recharge twice to finish - 3 total. EGO said the battery should last 300-500 charges, so I am reluctant to lay down $349 for a new one after only half of the expected life from the original.
Cheers,
Fred
Got mine for 20 each and hope to salvage 1 or two out of that!? E-GO! 🤗
I have 2 batteries that have the same problems after a short running time on the mower the yellow light comes on
Hey, thank you for your videos and tutorials! You make it easy for even a layman to understand what you are talking about. I have a Ego 2.5 AH battery that I have used for about 3 years. I’m contacting Ego about a replacement but no success yet with COVID wait times. Right now the battery will charge on the charger and run in my blower. However the green light is blinking on it non-stop and the battery is draining down even when not in use. It had stopped charging and blinking completely recently but I did some trouble shooting and got it back to charging and blinking today. Do you know what the problem could be based on this blinking green light? The voltage across the terminals is 56.6. Any advice you can recommend? Anything I can test with a standard multimeter? Thank you.
ua-cam.com/video/EH0GS0iUzzM/v-deo.html
This is the video that I repaired the 2.5ah BMS board blinking green...
Best of luck!
Thanks for your comment!
I took my battery pack apart and every cell is bulged. None of the cells have a sharp shoulder like the batteries in your video. It checks at 32V when I check across the positive and negative terminals. I checked the bottom pack and each pack checks at 3.6 to 3.7 V the top pack checks .3-.8V per cell. Is the pack shot and not repairable?
Most likely yes the pack is basically shot. If you try to charge up (boost) the low cells to see if they will take a charge they might but chances are the capacity will be low and cells will most likely get unbalanced easily. If you like working on these things at least you have some spare out of it. If you do not like keeping the spare parts around these packs can still bring some money on eBay even non-working. Best of luck to ya!
Great Videos, any idea where to get parts for these trying to get board with fuse and contacts for arc lithium 7.5 ah Thanks
Hi, thanks for your kind comments.
I have not had luck buying any new replacement parts. I have had luck at times buying packs from eBay or market place if you watch for good prices. Bad packs can eventually get a good supply of spare parts. I even capacity test the cells and log which ones have a certain level of capacity left, internal resistance etc. and of course you can end up with spare connector boards etc. I have had to use a fuse link in the past to replace a fuse. I have had luck once also finding a used EGO pack in a recycle bin at the hardware store. I am always allowed to get them if I ask the manager. Since the pandemic, I have not found many batteries in the recycle bin unfortunately. Best of luck to ya!
You stated experiencing 3 different issues... can you tell me which issue caused a solid red led on the battery pack and/ or a solid green on the charger? (I.e. the charger LED stays on solid Green even when the battery is not plugged into it and does nothing else. Solid green at all times) on the battery... the led/ button is solid red when the button is pushed.
This seems like a charger issue because of the constant green LED (as if it thinks theres a battery connected) any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Sounds most likely the Charger is the issue. I would absolutely test with another to make sure. At least the base charger is really cheap and if you don't have a spare yourself hopefully a neighbor or family member might?
Do you know the spec's for Q63? The code on this transistor is COPA. I only find 1 junction on this transistor and cannot decode it.How did you decode some of the other SMD's like Q8? Thank you.
I was not able to find info on the Q63 or Q64 but they are the same P/N and mine tested the same when comparing them to each other so I moved on. Mine is actually a COSA but I wonder if the CO is for Custom Ordered etc. It sucks web searches show nothing for it.
As far as Q8 mine shows BL and sometimes searching for BL marking! ie: the BCX56-16 shows BL marking in the data sheet. It also helps when I can recognize that it is a SOT89 package when searching. I don't know them all by any means but I know the SOT23 and the differences compared to the larger SOT89 pretty well.
Hope it helps (BTW if you can't find the Q64 it is hard to find it is bottom left beside the lower connector!)
I have followed this thread and ordered the MJD117. I fixing to tear down and replace. I just want to say, I don't know if anyone was not being able to charge the battery under the green flashing issue or not ? my charger would just go on and off, so I took it out put it in over and over and until I started holding the button in, in doing so then the charger went steady and charged the battery. of course the flashing green light eventually drained it. sometimes after the charger had charged the battery and stopped, it really did not charge so I repeated and it always charged the second time. Just want to say your help with this is very appreciated.
Thanks for your comment, and just to mention, you are doing great by trying to keep the battery charged. If the cells drop to far the cells will be damaged.
And the charger is sensing low voltage and will try to pulse on/off to get the voltage up if it doesn't bump up after a amount of time it will show a faulty pack!
Best of luck!
Nice vids. Gives me a slight idea of what to expect. My 5ah battery stopped working one day before the warranty so they are sending a replacement but I wanted to see if it was fixable. Shows 12v full at the slots but won't run the mower. The green button won't light up and the charger just try's for a bit then goes dark. Any suggestions? The Power management board maybe? Have yet to crack it...
Well I would lean toward problem being in the cells or at least one cell. Pack voltage should not get below 35V unless some cells or all cells have gone way to far delepleted. You really do not want cells to go below 2.5 each so 14s or 14 in series would be 35V. 12v is really low!
@@ThriftyToolShed and I'm guessing once a cell drops there is no safe way to kick start it into charging again huh? Thanks for the insight. I at least can go into this knowing it's not a quick fix like a fuse or bad wire.
@@Woffie70
Well typically it is nothing much we can do at that point, lithium has to be kept above 2.5V or so or damage occurs. In rare cases doing what is called boosting will bring a pack back up to a somewhat useful condition. I will put a current limited supply of 1A Constant Current and voltage limit of 4V accross each individual cell and sometimes they will charge back up, of course the cells have to be watched at all times making sure they are not shorted, or getting very hot! Bad news is that almost always some degradation of the cells will be noticed especially with that many cells they will all be different and not well balanced and some will be bad enough that after you charge them they will start to drop off voltage slowly due to internal damage. The pack may even get to the point of usable, but the capacity will be severly reduced. I have been lucky and just 1 or 2 cells dropped off quicker than the rest and by replacing them the capacity is pretty descent!
Do a teardown video about the ridgid cordless brushless hyperdrive nail gun.
Michael Hodge, I do not have access to one at the moment. I have several years ago worked on a few ridgid cordless nailers and was very impressed by the engineering inside then. The motor had true speed feedback with an encoder and the cable and piston system was very unexpected. I wish I would have videoed all repairs I have done over the years. Thanks for your request! I will look into it.
Hi all great videos.. i have 2 4ah ego batteries one is charged to 57 volts. But blinks red or orange when pushing button.. will it still work? Why wouldnt it b green? The other is at 8 v . With a power supply at 56v its not charging at all. How could i charge it
If it's 57V, then 56V will not charge it. It's already above that. If you are saying 8V pack will not charge with 56V then test all cells one or more maybe at almost open condition? If blinking red it thinks it has a cell issue. Check individual cells to make sure they are balanced. If blinking orange it could be a thermal issue or it thinks it is. Could be NTC thermistor issue.
The BMS board can of course cause this as well if all else checks out. I have taken time to share what I have learned on this one several videos. Hope it helps. Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed I thank you for your response . How can i charge individual cells without taking apart the whole pack. And i could test them on the bms board like you showed i guess. Wish they had a reset like on the newer ryobi 40v. .those are easy.. these are my first 2 56v.
It is no way to charge individual cells without disassembly. After disassembling and separating the halves it is fairly easy, but you have to make sure not to touch other cells or tabs while charging separately also.
Hi, Have you ever come cross a situation that all batteries in the pack (EGO 2.5Ah) were swollen and wouldn't charge. After taking the battery pack apart each cell has a charge of 3.6V and a total charge of 51.2V. Any idea as to what is going on?
When you mention swollen, you mean that the heat absorbing sleeves (phase changing sleeves) are swollen or the cells themselves under the sleeve?
When you say would not charge is that just with the EGO charger, you don't mean putting a current limited 4v accross the individual cells and it would not charge right?
@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks for your reply. Yes, each individual cell in both packs (14 of them the cells under the green sleeve) are uniformly swollen. And yes the ego charge wouldn't charge the battery, the green light stay green but very dim. I have tried to charge individual cell as well as a combination of 2, 3 and 4 cells together with 4, 8,12 &16 volt at 1A. it goes through the charge process without any issues but the charging process only takes about 5 to 10 minutes. I wish I could send you a picture of the pack?
@@moghadamk
You can send picture through my Facebook page if you like....
I have an issue charging an EGO battery. Although it is flashing green, it is accompanied by a loud clicking (relay) sound from the charger. Any thoughts? Thanks for the great videos!
B Appel, check your voltage of the battery. If it gets pulled down too low. It will do that. It will try to bump it up and then it will error out if not at a acceptable level. Sometimes the cells are beyond help in this case. If you are lucky sometimes bumping the battery up as I did with the Drok can help. Usually it may need individual cells replaced.
B Appel, Best of luck and thanks for your comment.
My brand new battery is doing this also. They are shipping a new replacement but I tore this one down to check things out. I confirmed each cell is reading exactly the same (around 3.71vdc). The voltages are also present at each of the charging terminals. Nothing happens when I push the power button on the pack (it used to light up green right out the box).
The first time I put it on the charger it began to charge and the charger fan was going. Around 15 minutes later it started clicking. At least I have 14 new good cells!
I would be very new to the battery repair game, but I was thinking of getting some bad battery packs and trying to get them whole again, cheapest I found was 25 a battery with shipping, do you think it's worth while to do it?
Thank you.
Excellent video thank you again
john voigt, I think so, I have noticed the prices on these batteries have gone up on eBay. As always it is a gamble, you don't know for sure how low the cells are. When I ordered 4 I was able to get 3 fully repaired and the 4th one I repaired the BMS to have spare, but used the good cells in it to fix the other 3. Best of luck!
My battery just developed a problem. I've only used it a handful of times (it's its first summer), and all of a sudden it went dead. No lights come on at all, charger won't have anything to do with it.
Measured the voltage, it's actually all the way up to 58V!
Were any of the batteries you repaired like that? I'm assuming it's a chip or a faulty connection.
Hi, I did not have any exactly like that. First of all it should still be under warranty. Contact ego to get new replacement. Then if they still tell you to keep the old one and recycle it as they did with me last year then open it up. I had one that had a bad fuse on the connect board and it read zero at the connections but all batteries were showing 58v in series once I read a cross all cells before the fuse? I have never had one read 58v at connections and still be bad!
Yes, they are sending me a new one but told me to recycle it! I'm an electrical engineer (industrial controls, not control boards, but I've played a little bit with then in school), so I'm genuinely curious and if I fix it, great!
Will open it up once I get my hand on security torx. I doubt it's the fuse, since I read 58V right on the contacts.
nakednhappy, awesome. I feel the same way it will be interesting to see what you find. I have had a few different failures but not exactly like this one. It's a great sign that you have 58v on the cells. Seems like all your cells are in great shape, hopefully. I wonder if it's in the temperature feedback for the pack basically a NTC circuit.
Btw, I am like you, I am Industrial electrician and have repaired drives and some boards over the years so more of I hobby for me aslo, and I really enjoy it. Best of luck.
We left our 7.5 out in the weather and it no longer will charge. Any ideas where to start?
Hard to say, the battery electronics are sealed pretty well. But I have not had a 7.5Ah apart yet to say for sure. Is it trying to charge at all? Any voltage reading at the terminals?Any light showing when the battery charge level indicator pressed?
@@ThriftyToolShed the charge cycle went through a normal process. when we install the battery in the mower the mower starts for about a second and then the battery flashes red then shuts off. no lights on the charge level indicator. as far as voltage at the teminals, can I just touch any two terminals to determine that, with my voltage meter?
You have to touch the (+ and - ) outside two terminals. I have seen bad cells cause the blinking red, the BMS board could cause that and a bad NTC could also cause it. Checking the voltage, if it is around 56-58v then the cells are most likey good. I also have a video about what is the T-terminal that will aid some in trouble shooting the terminators (NTC). Other than that it could possibly be a bad BMS board. Best of luck, I know these packs are not cheap, I have two 5Ah packs but no 7.5 yet!
Where can buy the cells
I keep lots of spare cells from almost new packs parted out as well as other cells tested very well for capacity. I just about always have what I need for spares. I usually do not recommend cells because so many times it's hard to verify that they are not fake cells. The main thing to make sure is that the seller is truly selling genuine cells. I have had great luck using 18650batterystore.com in the past.
I share some of this in this video if you find it helpful.
ua-cam.com/video/f9SOPVEqgkw/v-deo.html
where can i purchase a q12 transistor?
I have a link in the first Ego pack repair video description. Should be able to find it at any electronics supplier also.
Link to the the Q12 replacement I ordered:
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5575400462&toolid=10001&campid=5338325412&customid=&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F1-pcs-Motorola-PNP-2A-100V-Darlington-Power-Transistor-MJD117%2F264256482703%3Fhash%3Ditem3d86e9ed8f%3Ag%3AdakAAOSwK1Rb-sIN
where can we buy the cells?
I mentioned in the video called Lithium Battery FAQ#1 how I use spare cells salvaged for mine on these.
These are Li-ion 18650 2500mah and every EGO pack I have ever worked on has the 18650 physical size cells.
(I do not know what is in the newer 10Ah and larger packs though).
It is hard to say for sure which cells are in the packs due to the unmarked cells but we know they are close to 2500mah due to the 2.5ah, 5ah etc. rating. I bought several bad packs from eBay over the last 6 years or so and tested and collected the good cells from some packs while that helped me repair many packs. We know they will be high current cells. We have had some comments from viewers on here saying the cells they thought their packs have.....
(Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed) mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
@@ThriftyToolShed thank you so much for the reply. i plan on doing a self repair on my eco battery.
hopefully its easier i am working with the 6.0 hopefully it all goes smoothly
@optimiskong4219
Awesome! Hope all goes well!
@@ThriftyToolShed which is your most detailed video that can help me with the full repair.
@@ThriftyToolShed i ran into a problem my cells are orange for the 6.0 battery and there is sillacone blocking everything.