You seem to know a ton about these carbs! Mine is sometimes leaking fuel from the central venturi stack when it sits off. Do you think think this could happen due to an improperly adjusted float? What else could cause something like this? Thank you
..my right carb is popping. Gonna try your method, but i dont want to take the carb out. Hoping to leave it bolted in.. i have a 69 baywindow,… do u for-see any problem, or do u have any tips to cleaning out the carb while on the engine. Thanks
Why can't they just make the carburetor with the correct jets to start with? There should be only one jet size that will attain the correct fuel to air ratio for a given air flow rate. Not counting air density or cold starts which will require more or less fuel. Your engine size shouldn't really matter because the jets are matched to the air flow rate through the carburetor. Also fuel viscosity will play a role in jet size but it should be close to the perfect size for a given air flow rate.
I just did a rebuild on a weber 40 idf and the thing will not ideal and only stay running with the accelerator pump sprays . After this video I believe I know where the issue is cuz my ideal jets was clean when I removed them . Gonna be taking carby off again . Thanks for the detailed info .
One of the best ways to combat these issues is to run a fine mesh Pre-filter in addition to a quality air filter that is supple enough to make a good seal. It’s sad people often care more about the looks of carbs than having them function properly.
Exactly what I have, ruined a lifter I didnt catch it early enough. So it finally went out completely, no gas when I push the nipple in on the shrader valve. New pump here I come. I have the same OBDII scanner btw
Your video helped me a lot thank you so much. I do have a question though. My driver side carb seems to be stuck at 10 on the synchroneter and I can’t get it to go down to match 5 to the other side. It is now unclogged but doesn’t seem to want to be adjusted now.
That cylinder has the intake valve adjusted tighter than the rest. Making it open farther and longer. That causes more air flow through the meter. Or it has a different bore size. It happens all the time because the cylinders are not always matching. That you would have to figure out with an engine builder near you. It takes measuring tools to figure that out, it could also have a different head to Block spacer. Sometimes you can never get the carbs to match. Also, sometimes exhaust tubing can be different lengths causing the same problem different airflow amount. Best I can do from here. Good luck
@@vicferrarisgarage thank you I appreciate the help. Everyone who has driven the car before me says they “can’t get the carbs right” so what you said makes a lot of sense
Vic, Very informative video. I am new to the Webers as I recently bought a 1972 Corvette with a Jim Inglese 8 stack Weber downdraft setup. I do have a lean pop on the passenger side. I am also running very rich out both sides. I need to find out what size jets are in there and see what Jim recommends for jet sizes. Thank you for posting this video.
Vic, I've watched your video at least a dozen times and it was very helpful in getting my carbs rebuilt. What I experiencing now is after I shut the car off it keeps dumping fuel down the carbs. I did some research and people were talking about the replacement gaskets may be blocking that brass air hole on the top of the carb. They said they were experiencing the same problem I am and once the got that area of the gasket corrected it worked fine. I read one review where I bought my kit and he mentioned he had to trim that area of the gasket slightly as to not block the passage. Will having the air hole blocked cause it to keep dumping fuel after shut down?
@@Haiamksadfkasfthey basically put some shirts that like kinda promote the devil and other crap like that but I’m not scared because I know the devil is already defeated by Jesus!
Center mount rack and pinion and equal length tie rods would eliminate that issue. The VW box requires too many turns where as a R&P is a 3/4 turn lock to lock
I have a 350 chevy small block with mild cam on 1965 c10 truck. Theres no thermostat. Engine runs fine. Should I install one? I live in Southern California were we have good weather
@@nursecuenca leave it alone it likes it. Sometimes it works. I would try a 180f just to see if you get closer to 180-190 but mainly for the morning heat up to expand the rod & main bearings quicker so you don’t beat them to death.
@@vicferrarisgarage what??? all rods expand... with out thermostat, cause its internel temperature. oil gets hot vey fast oil tep is one thing cooler temp another,, i know it caused i worked a lot in racing
Wow , thanks for this great reveal of this circuit , Vic !
Love your idea!!!! Thank you!
You seem to know a ton about these carbs! Mine is sometimes leaking fuel from the central venturi stack when it sits off. Do you think think this could happen due to an improperly adjusted float? What else could cause something like this? Thank you
For a 2161cc stroker engine, which valve setting would u recommend?
I run my 2176 at 7. 😊
..my right carb is popping. Gonna try your method, but i dont want to take the carb out. Hoping to leave it bolted in.. i have a 69 baywindow,… do u for-see any problem, or do u have any tips to cleaning out the carb while on the engine. Thanks
I always pull them. It always bites me later if I don’t. Thanks 😊
Nice overview. Good information on a poor quality carburator. Thanks.
Great job thinking outside of the box and keeping it theme related at the same time.
Why can't they just make the carburetor with the correct jets to start with? There should be only one jet size that will attain the correct fuel to air ratio for a given air flow rate. Not counting air density or cold starts which will require more or less fuel. Your engine size shouldn't really matter because the jets are matched to the air flow rate through the carburetor. Also fuel viscosity will play a role in jet size but it should be close to the perfect size for a given air flow rate.
I just did a rebuild on a weber 40 idf and the thing will not ideal and only stay running with the accelerator pump sprays . After this video I believe I know where the issue is cuz my ideal jets was clean when I removed them . Gonna be taking carby off again . Thanks for the detailed info .
what about the cooling fans?
Thank you
AWESOME IDEA
My Weber 40's are doing the pop. Would it be possible to use a slight vacuum and reverse clean thru the key straw?
Using a tap I like t bar to turn tap
Will no thermostat work as a temporary fix for a n52 bmw engine
One of the best ways to combat these issues is to run a fine mesh Pre-filter in addition to a quality air filter that is supple enough to make a good seal. It’s sad people often care more about the looks of carbs than having them function properly.
Where can I find that roof cover??
Very good.
what are your thoughts on empi oil cooler system that returns to front oil relief
😂
So where can I see your kit. Need things.
Thanks I finally understand the idle circuit! I hope God is blessing you!
I shat myself
Good thinking 🤔
Awesome! Thank you Vic.
Can anyone give a rough estimate of what it costs to have a 3 Rib gone through? Aside from any damage found of course...
That's a great explanation providing insight into how these carbs actually function, Thank you!!
Glad to help. Enjoy the holidays
it would be nice if you let us see a close up of your machine work
Thank you for the info. Knowing where the air and fuel are fed from and where it's supposed to go really makes cleaning the carb simple.
Great explanation Vic.
Can car fan come on without the thermostat in the car
Yes if the coolant reaches the fan trigger temp the system sensor is set for.
Ok my car pass temperature level but fan is not coming i replaced new temp sensor still not came on and i'm running it bypass what can be the cause 😢
Exactly what I have, ruined a lifter I didnt catch it early enough. So it finally went out completely, no gas when I push the nipple in on the shrader valve. New pump here I come. I have the same OBDII scanner btw
Your video helped me a lot thank you so much. I do have a question though. My driver side carb seems to be stuck at 10 on the synchroneter and I can’t get it to go down to match 5 to the other side. It is now unclogged but doesn’t seem to want to be adjusted now.
That cylinder has the intake valve adjusted tighter than the rest. Making it open farther and longer. That causes more air flow through the meter. Or it has a different bore size. It happens all the time because the cylinders are not always matching. That you would have to figure out with an engine builder near you. It takes measuring tools to figure that out, it could also have a different head to Block spacer. Sometimes you can never get the carbs to match. Also, sometimes exhaust tubing can be different lengths causing the same problem different airflow amount. Best I can do from here. Good luck
@@vicferrarisgarage thank you I appreciate the help. Everyone who has driven the car before me says they “can’t get the carbs right” so what you said makes a lot of sense
😂
People who don’t know how to science for $200 Alex
Vic, Very informative video. I am new to the Webers as I recently bought a 1972 Corvette with a Jim Inglese 8 stack Weber downdraft setup. I do have a lean pop on the passenger side. I am also running very rich out both sides. I need to find out what size jets are in there and see what Jim recommends for jet sizes. Thank you for posting this video.
Glad I could help!
@@vicferrarisgarage I need to tear these down and see if there is a problem causing mine to run so rich.
Vic, I've watched your video at least a dozen times and it was very helpful in getting my carbs rebuilt. What I experiencing now is after I shut the car off it keeps dumping fuel down the carbs. I did some research and people were talking about the replacement gaskets may be blocking that brass air hole on the top of the carb. They said they were experiencing the same problem I am and once the got that area of the gasket corrected it worked fine. I read one review where I bought my kit and he mentioned he had to trim that area of the gasket slightly as to not block the passage. Will having the air hole blocked cause it to keep dumping fuel after shut down?
They ain't going woke theyre just doing what gets them money.
Nice😂 hahaha
Hilarious.
Sinking fast get the buckets!!! Or don’t bahahahaa
I'm so confused Sorry ice never seen this channel idk what's going on 😭
target’s selling lgbtq clothing for kids and people did not like that
@demo_main6973 ah thanks!
Quite literally 😂
So true!
How so?
@@Haiamksadfkasfthey basically put some shirts that like kinda promote the devil and other crap like that but I’m not scared because I know the devil is already defeated by Jesus!
@@Haiamksadfkasfthey've lost 10 billion dollars in the past week for promoting queer shit on baby and toddler clothes
Deus Vult.
You defo watch dark meme compilations.
Center mount rack and pinion and equal length tie rods would eliminate that issue. The VW box requires too many turns where as a R&P is a 3/4 turn lock to lock
That mount is a nice bit of kit...
I can’t thank you enough for your informative video. This helped me tremendously figure out what’s wrong with mine.
I have a 350 chevy small block with mild cam on 1965 c10 truck. Theres no thermostat. Engine runs fine. Should I install one? I live in Southern California were we have good weather
What temp are you averaging during a drive? For best gas mileage 180-190 engine temp after full warm up is perfect.
@@vicferrarisgarage runs at 200 degrees
@@nursecuenca leave it alone it likes it. Sometimes it works. I would try a 180f just to see if you get closer to 180-190 but mainly for the morning heat up to expand the rod & main bearings quicker so you don’t beat them to death.
NO
@@vicferrarisgarage what??? all rods expand... with out thermostat, cause its internel temperature. oil gets hot vey fast oil tep is one thing cooler temp another,, i know it caused i worked a lot in racing
Thanks so much for the class.
or just use a brake bleed vaccum pump. Vac pipe inserted in the hole with idle jet removed, sucking all that dirt right out into the bleeder bowl