SOLVED! Carbon Build Up/Deposits: The Causes Exposed, Prevention, & Removal Solutions 💨🚗
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- Опубліковано 16 жов 2024
- Carbon buildup has become a major issue for modern motorists, affecting engine performance and efficiency. This video explores what carbon buildup is, what causes it, and how you can remove, reduce or prevent it. We also discuss how manufacturers and car enthusiasts have tackled this problem with innovative solutions and modifications.
What is Carbon Buildup? 🌿
Carbon buildup refers to carbon deposits forming around the intake and valves in the engine. This can significantly restrict airflow, potentially reducing your engine’s performance by up to 60%.
Causes of Carbon Buildup 🔍
Direct Injection Engines: Unlike older port injection engines, modern direct injection engines don't wash the intake valves with fuel, leading to carbon deposits.
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR): Recirculates some exhaust gases back into the intake to reduce emissions, introducing carbon particles.
Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV): Vents excess pressure and oily vapors into the intake, creating a sticky surface for carbon buildup.
Mitigation Strategies 🌟
Use High-Quality Fuel: Ensures cleaner combustion, reducing carbon deposits.
Injector Cleaners: Keep injectors clean for efficient fuel spray and combustion, though they don't clean intake valves directly.
Regular Maintenance: Long drives help reduce carbon buildup by keeping the engine running efficiently and burning off residues.
Modifications to Reduce Carbon Buildup 🔧
Oil Catch Can: Traps oil vapors from the PCV system before they reach the intake, keeping it cleaner.
EGR Delete: Prevents carbon-laden exhaust gases from entering the intake (note: often illegal for on-road use).
Port Injection Retrofit: Combines port and direct injection to help clean the intake valves.
Cleaning Carbon Buildup 🛠️
Intake Sprays: Can be effective but require repeated use and careful application to avoid engine damage.
Professional Intake Cleaning: Computer-controlled cleaning processes offer thorough and safe cleaning.
Walnut Blasting: Uses crushed walnut shells to effectively clean carbon deposits without damaging engine components.
Manual Cleaning: Using solvents and abrasives with caution to avoid engine contamination.
Engine Types Affected by Carbon Buildup 🛞
Large Capacity, Low-Revving Engines: More prone to buildup and may require cleaning every 20,000-30,000 miles.
Small Turbo Engines: Less prone but still need attention, typically every 70,000-80,000 miles.
Final Tips 📋
Avoid short trips, keep your engine well-maintained, and consider these modifications and cleaning methods to keep your engine running smoothly and efficiently.
Share Your Experience!
Have you dealt with carbon buildup? Share your tips and tricks in the comments below. What worked best for your car?
👍 If you found this video helpful, please like, comment, and subscribe to our channel for more automotive insights and tips. Your support helps us bring you more valuable content!
#CarbonBuildup #EnginePerformance #DirectInjection #OilCatchCan #EGRDelete #WalnutBlasting #CarMaintenance #CarMods #FuelEfficiency #CarEngine
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Legal Notice: Unless we have inspected your car we can only provide generic theory. All information is provided without warranty, please check any recommendations made with a mechanic locally to verify it would be legal in your area or region and that it would be suitable for your car and your needs.
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Guys like this really are angels in human clothing. The time and effort that goes into making these productions is enormous, and for so little return. This is a guy who just wants to help other people.
Show your appreciation and hit like and subscribe. Please.
We can share his videos with our friends and on related forums. This way we can thank him for his efforts and also promote his channel so we can keep getting great videos like this one. 👍
Why do manufacturers take exhaust gases from before the d.p.f. or cat rather than from near the exhaust tailpipe where the gases are cleaner and much cooler?
@@AlunDutfield
It's a good question but you are asking the wrong person. I see videos saying EGR deletes are unadvisable as their function is often misunderstood, so my opinions are conflicted.
what cause more carbon build up pvc vale's or egr
it's a team effort in my opinion, the oil from the PCV helps the soot from the EGR stick to the intake valves. If I was going to remove just one to help with carbon build up it would probably be with an oil catch can on the PCV.
Best use for any engine is motorway use 💯
What is a "motorway?" Do you mean like the Freeway/Expressway/interstate? I'm American, so maybe it's called different things abroad. I'll have to look that up.
Okay. Just looked that up. It's definitely a UK thing to call the expressway a motorway. I think that's a bit strange, but I do think that calling calling 'soccer' as football is much better. Makes more sense. We should call our football...handball, lol.
@@Shadows-RC We don't call an expressway a motorway. We call a motorway and motorway.
@@Shadows-RC yeah a motorway is a motorway.
@@Shadows-RCyou American's are funny... You take the English language and change some words 😂
All meant in fun 😊
When it comes to cars I guess our languages evolved separately, it is a minefield I walk every day.
Brake rotor/Brake disk
Trunk/Boot
Fender/Wing
Sidewalk/Pavement
Tire/Tyre
Gas/Petrol
Tunes/Remaps
LOL - divided by a common language.
Old trick with carbon build up on piston heads was Redex down spark plug holes. In the US they like to use Berryman's B12 Chemtool.
1. Get car to operating temperature.
2. Remove coil packs and spark plugs.
3. Remove EFI fuse and/or disconnect injector plugs.
4. Pour 25ml to 50ml REDEX/Berrymans down each plug hole.
5. You can short soak for 30 mins or do a 24 hour soak (if 24 hour consider changing oil after as some may seep down your piston rings into sump).
6. Hand rotate engine a few times to allow product to penetrate Oil Control Ring and Compression Rings.
7. Place a towel over spark plug holes.
8. Crank car over for 10 seconds x 3 times to expel any remaining product from cylinders to prevent hydrolock.
9. Reconnect spark plug/coils and EFI/injectors.
10. Start car.
11. Car will sputter and may struggle to start. But it will.
12. Car may splutter and sound like misfiring but after a minute or two of ticking over this settles.
13. Expect lots of smoke from the exhaust!
14. Continue to idle until car reaches operating temperature.
15. Take car for a good highway blast, getting up to 60MPH/70MPH (legally of course)!
16. On occasion hold in 3rd gear and try and get car under load like up a steep hill.
17. Expect fist waves from angry motorists as smoke clears from your tailpipe.
18. Once smoke has cleared, go home and hope your neighbours are still friendly.
Disclaimer: Try this at your own risk! This is something I have done many times in the past as have millions of other drivers around the world. DIY Dave did this on his videos with his oil burning Corolla.
That's the wrong part of the engine, we are all talking about what is above the valves and what is in the intake. You're only looking at what is inside the cylinder.
Advice is about 40years out of date !
@@craig357 why dont you just pour it in the gas tank? Like what is recommended.
Best video 🎉
The ultimate solution is to avoid GDI cars all together 😂
Becoming more and more difficult...
Almost ALL gas and diesel auto's use DI now but some like Toyota use BOTH DI and Port injection 👍 to combat the carbon build-up issue.
Hi, there is a Canadian guy posting videos on the mk2 TT. He shows how he does his car walnut cleaning in a quite nice manner. Il would tend to believe this is a touchy by great method. I'll try and do it this winter when I replace my injectors. Again congrats for your videos. All the best
I just let my wife take over driving. It's harder on gas but I think she drove Formula 1 in a previous life.
😂
I respect that about your wife.
Makes the valve coking worse
now you're the one who's scared while driving in the passenger seat, my wife starts screaming in a corner at 200km/h, and you?
@@fzr1000981 Yeah, I'm not sold on the "Italian tuneup". You're going to rev the carbon off the valves?.....really?
So short trips are bad for engines, and motorway driving is an antidote for all types of build-up. Modern engines produce a fair bit more power than they used to, but people drive them probably more slowly these days due to traffic and never have to ride them through the gears, and anything with an automatic gearbox races through the cogs so the engines never really stretch themselves. An Italian tune up is always a good thing on a hot engine with good quality fuel.
i changed out the baffle plate for the pcv in my 2.0 Ecoboost with a labyrinth style baffle plate, this does a great job in preventing oil vapour reaching the intake.
previously the throttlebody was soaking wet with oil, now it is dry as can be. i replaced the intake manifold and took te liberty to clean the valve stalks, i left them soaking over night with wynn's DI valve cleaner, then with all kinds of brushes i got the valves pretty clean, for small contaminants you could spray the solution direct into the intake if you prefere
Thank you from Ontario Canada! Other UA-cam posts go on about Carbon Build up but fall short of explanation. This is arguably the best explanation I have found to date on how the carbon is getting into the intake. The EGR and PCV makes sense. I recently replaced my wife’s MPI mall crawler with a GDI ICE. For her short trips an EV might have been a better choice, but I’m not ready to embrace EV just yet. Seeing this video I think that I’ll be taking her car to work a couple time a week to hopefully “blow the carbon out” as we used to say in the 70s and 80s. Also I will study up on adding some sort of valve cleaning into my regular maintenance routine.
I'm in the process of carbon atm. I'm using oven cleaner, and a high-pressure water jet cleaner is the go. If I were doing this as a business, I would buy a large ultrasonic cleaner and wallnut blaster that would be the best.
On my old tdi, I had the intake off and the head ports were nasty.
Make sure the valve is closed and whack it a while with a propane torch and they cleaned up nice ,along with the manifold.
Sucks about most newer manifolds being plastic.
Still can use a propane torch to burn some of that crap out first and help any chemicals you might use.
I have a '19 Range Rover Velar P250 (petrol 4 cyl. turbo-charged) with GDFI. I take oil changes to a new level to mitigate carbon build up on the valves from the EGR and PCV systems. Change the oil every 6 mos. OR 3000 miles with a high quality oil, e.g., LiquidMoly LR.
I also try to make sure that any time driving the vehicle, I drive a minimum number of miles for a full warmup and I don't baby it.
Doesn't matter. Ingenium engines are junk.
Carbon build up was still an issue even on port injection and carburetor cars just less often. Where it’s been bad is DI cars with turbo applications. Usually due to poor pcv design or the ridiculous oil change lengths and the oil burns off and gets sucked into the valve.
Valvoline clean and restore oil actually helps more than you’d think.
Also there’s ALWAYS some sort of blow by regardless because there’s no such thing as perfectly sealed piston rings.
Don’t use cheap oil. Also pennzoil is terrible at oil vapor.
Oil catch cans don’t help a whole lot on cars that are bad like VW and Audi.
Also it’s not carbon usually it’s oil vapor burning on the intake valve when hot.
Ask any auto manufacturer they didn’t add port again to reduce carbon. It’s emissions efficiency not carbon reduction.
EGR is mostly the culprit. Egr and extended oil change intervals. Be wary of "flush" type treatments because they can cause big chunks of hardened carbon to circulate throughout your engine, blocking oilways & wreaking havoc.
Great videos keep 'em coming. Greetings from DownUnder.
Thanks, will do!
Catch cans: Junk just fills up with condensation that can freeze in winter. Will contain a little bit of oil. Intake sprays: Junk. Other that: spot on infos. Liked the video a lot. Only manual physical cleaning of intakes works... tis true. Moisture in the morning also feels like it has carbon build up.... You may notice that it does not appear when the motor is dry in the morning.
In the generator world, the 8.1 GM used to have some issues with the crankcase breather can freezing up, it has a cleanable filter inside like a k+n and there's always a half a cup of water and oil cottage cheese and it can all freeze up.
Once they put a thick blanket around it ,no more issues.
There's still plenty of moisture but it doesn't freeze and pump out 5 quarts from the front seal now.
Intake sprays only work as preventative maintenance. If you do them regularly (5-7k miles), they can prevent major carbon build-up. However, if you wait until the carbon is caked on thick, the sprays barely do anything.
Elite Engineering catch cans works great, dont go cheap and ignorant
@@MishtahPoog Might damage the piston rings, and all, running that much solvent through your motor and cat though.
Using the correct engine oil is essential
Blowby still happens in most boosted applications
Carbon (ash) build-up in my DPF choked the engine...a professional off car clean has restored performance and fuel economy to 'as new' levels even though the car has done 120,000 miles...it's a Mazda CX-7...cheers
@@cm-kl2wx I'm a mechanic, no one here tells you the truth, even the mechanics don't know, only I know maybe and someone else can know if you don't say it
@@miri2553 I used my brothers professional scan tool and checked differential pressures before and after cleaning...the post clean reading was zero pressure at idle and minimum levels at 3000rpm. This proved that the procedure had been successful. It's essential to know and be able to interpret the pressure readings. My brother who is also a mechanic learned something from the experience...cheers.
I'll have that brand new 6 litre ferrari please.
No problem, it has an egr valve to save the planet.
Oh good, What's the mpg again?
Stay the course mate. In a couple of years you'll have a million subs and growing.
A million subs would be something! I'm just happy to have built up such a great group of supportive & friendly followers on here.
This is exactly why i own two Toyota rav4s , with the 2.5 liter naturally aspirated engines. They have both, direct and port injection. They call it the (dynamic force engine) (d4s). Carbon buildup is not a concern !!!
@@jimguzell4993 The Ford Coyote engines also have both, although Ford and Toyota combine the two in different ways relative to load and RPM.
My son works for Ampol Australia. Here in Oz 95 & 98 unleaded fuel is given fuel injector cleaner @ 450 parts per million parts, as part of an additive package into the fuel, as it is loaded into tankers...
(same stuff you buy in the bottles which he describes as a "massive mega dose" when the whole bottle is added usually 250 ml)
Cheaper fuel suppliers/ petrol stations, here in Australia, do not have the injector additive, so add 2.5 millilitres per 50 litres of injector cleaner to your fuel if you are concerned. (two tenths of F'all)
My 2017 pathfinder with direct injection has been having sludge issues while my 2016 without di has none
Short of tearing the intake off there isnt anything you can do about this issue except egr and pcv delete (when the car is new)
Archoil 6900-P Max may help prevent carbon buildup on some direct injection engines. Although I have not yet seen a long-term test to show its efficacy. It certainly improves the burn of the fuel in my car.
Do you use it with regular E10 95 RON petrol or E5 99 RON premium fuel? I'm guessing the former?
How....you know how DI works right? Fuel has zero impact on intake valves
@@fzr1000981 it remains unburnt in the recycled exhaust and is fed back using egr. Also if you have a miller cycle engine, or an Atkinson cycle engine some fuel gets spit back behind the intake valve before combustion.
It may not be enough to completely prevent the issue but a cleaner burn and regular oil changes may slow its egress.
@@paulgroves8633 use it with either. I use E5 99 V Power as well to maximise the PEAs in the combustion cycles.
my 22 years old, 18 years and 8 years old are in great shape without any issue with carbon build up, Any !
I always using at least 95 RON and full synthetic engine oil and driving them a bit aggresive eventhough on daily commute ! both of them are Germany
-- Feel good --
Can you see inside then
@@volt8684 with the ages of the cars he listed they're probably not direct injection, if they are port injection the petrol/air mixture acts as a cleaning agent for the inlet valves.
Oil catch cans sadly doesn’t do anything and on most cars you can’t even delete egr because it’s an internal system working with cam phasers.
EGR by altered cam phasing doesn't contaminate the intake tract with carbon.
Catch cans do work
Planned obsolescence. When gasoline is injected directly onto the pistons. It washes, rinses & diluted the engine oil that's meant to be there for friction protection & to keep piston & its rings from damaging cylinder walls.
When enough oil has been washed, then that's when engine failures happens.
There will be a strong gas smell & most times "cappuccino" color in the old engine oil when an oil change has been done.
That makes a lot of sense... high pressure blasting the top of the piston with a solvent on every rotation. Not good.
Great information; thanks!
If the intake manifold is (partially) clogged, would that exacerbate this issue further, as there’s less air available for the incoming fuel?
Cheers
The more dirty the engine burn the more likely it is to have carbon issues, so yes a clogged intake can accelerate the carbon deposit slightly.
At 130 miles in the odo i just removed both heads and use my scotch brite stainless to remove all carbon by hand and with the help of a pick tool, tested all valvles for leak and put back with a new set of gasket. The power and smoth of engine went back pretty good, Although my engine is not direct injected.
I have a 2013 Genesis coupe 3.8, when I got it to 100k I decided to get it walnut blasted to clean out the carbon. It actually wasn't as bad as some I've seen. I went ahead and replaced injectors also. She's at 143k and still going strong *knock on wood* .
The media used to clean the back of the intake valves is grounded walnut shells. any walnut shell residu will be burned in the process of combustion.
In my personal experience, any name brand synthetic eng. oil. Will help with carbon build up, Just because it's a name brand synthetic eng. oil, don't extend your oil changes. The best synthetic. eng. oil is clean oil...
Eng. Oil is cheep, engines aren't.
Cheep oil is better, than extending your oil change, and even better than no oil change.
Are you a twin brother of Blackbelt Barrister?
You sound exactly like him and you look like him too!
We are both clones from the same batch, he got the brains & looks though!
Thank you. We just bought a new Nissan Rouge with a 1.5 engine. My wife drives back and forth to work five days weekly and it's about a 56-mile trip. Otherwise, it's trips in town of 20-30 minutes each.
Hopefully, this is a good driving mix to keep the carbon low.
Could you please do a video on the Three-cylinder engines, including the Nissan unit? Being new to a small engine and having never owned a turbo, help, and maintenance advice would be appreciated.
Really am enjoying your channel. Thank you.
The US Northeast distributor of a major heavy equipment manufacturer advised me to buy a used pre-dpf unit unless it was for commercial use due to the fact that the current model year equipment had between $7,000 and $14,000 added to the MSRP for emmissions warranty repairs. A homeowner was going to get screwed by the time factor of the warranty.
This is turning into a massive drag on the economy. I wonder what the total cost actually is.
Good points and totally correct 👍
the gas companies need to switch back to the old school gas and ditch the ethanol in the gas. Have noticed more frequent stops at the gas station and all these cars throwing EGR, catalytic converter and O2 sensor codes?
@user-in9et9hv4n ethanol makes more power and burns cleaner. Sure its worse gas mileage. Ethanol is cheap in NA. E85 is cheaper than regular 87AKI.
Cars that do that were already broken or had badly written self tuning software /diagnostic monitors. A modern engine with heated sensors will go into closed loop almost instantly and correct fuel doses by itself. It will even learn and correct baseline values over time. Slightly lower/higher octane or little bit of alcohol should not affect it.
If a fuel works well with modern cars and is cheaper to make without absolutely horrific additives they are not switching back.
@@stevo5976 Ethanol only seems cheaper because you are ignoring the federal subsidies that coerce you to think so. Also Ethanol has less energy than gasoline so it is impossible to "make more power" which is why you also get worse fuel mileage using ethanol. See U.S. Dept. of energy, Alternative fuels, Ethanol has 30% less energy than gasoline despite what some youtube experts claim.
You mean leaded gasoline?
I'm glad my 1.8t has port injection. 22 years old and still runs great.
What about diesel engines? They never had injectors spraying valves but they were clocking 500k and more in taxis and such.
They do carbon up as well , particularly if the EGR system and or injectors go bad or do lots of short trips, but as most car diesels are turbo these days and have loads of torque they are rarely driven at higher revs the effect on performance is less noticeable but if oyu are gettgin DPF issues say then you can be sure inlet side is cacked up as well.
Elite Engineering catch can for all DI engines, especially boosted
Great vid!
This is a dfi problem pfi has injectors spraying on the valves. Do a wet intake cleaning every 6 months
what is a wet intake cleaning?
@@kidnman4605 Solvent mist into intake.
It's Italian tune up time , spin those tires lady's 😂🤣😅
Walnut blast works wonders
this is why i will be getting port injection added to my 8J TTRS in a few weeks after having it pulled apart and the carbon build up cleaned out.
Are you going water methanol or regular fuel?
@@torquecars regular 98 oct. it wont be standard in the end. engine will be pulled out and forged pistons all new valves, fuel system and all supporting mods to run a bigger turbo with syvecs to manage it. nothing crazy though, its a street car. will chat with the mechanic about managing carbon build up and running the modified engine. its getting prazis airbag suspension put on it this week. with a set of 20" Vossen LC2-C1s. exhaust, downpipe, cae shortshifter, new bushings. rear sway bar, rear control arms, front and rear end links, dogbone mount. upgraded engine transmission mount. Audi R8 ignition coils, new sparkplugs. end of Feb start of March 2025 everything should be finished. Thats when the motor will come out, just have to ask whether its better to wait to get it all done at the same time and just have all the supporting mods done before the motor comes out. Intercooler, fuel pump, clutch etc. car currently has around 65,000ks on it. 3rd owner, 2011 model.
@@torquecars Just watched your "never buy a car from these years" vid. i picked the 8J TTRS for the shape and look of it. but i wanted a manual, as you know VW/Audi stopped making manuals in 2013 i think. It was either one of these or a BMW 1M. After researching modifications to the platforms i decided on the TTRS. After owning a 2011 mk6 Golf R i dont know if i could go back to a RWDM my first car was a 1989 FD RX7 savannah, modified bridgeport running a respecced T04. All supporting mods with microtech ECU managing them. So much fun, i miss driving a rotary. hearing the intank fuel pump squirting away while at the lights and the smell of fuel and oil mixture and the bridgeport idle. no need for a stereo system :P Glad i got to experience owning one tbh. 😁
I've only ever driven a rotary for a day and it was a real blast when I got over the need to rev it hard to get any torque.
I think you'll have great fun with the TTRS they are pretty good platforms to work on and upgrade.
@torquecars yeah I just wanted a car I know I'll keep as long as I can thats fun to drive. And still daily. It's why I've gotta sit down and have a good chat with the spanners at options and pros n cons. Tbh wide usable powerband that's as responsive as I can get it. I don't care for quarter mile times. There's no circuit where I live either, just a street car.
Hi , not sure if you know but CRC GASKET REMOVER dissolves carbon . Cheers
@@Cobra427Veight And the gasket on your engine also 😁
What would you recommend for cleaning a Golf mk3 vr6 2.8 1997 engine? Mine runs really well and has done over 205k miles now. Just wondering whether I'd need to anything with the engine or to leave it alone. It's passed all MOTs recently and I put a cleaner in the petrol tank and have it serviced regularly
Water injection for the win.
It's worth discussing this as it also has performance benefits, look out for the next video my friend....
2.0 TDI, thinking of cleaning the intake and the valves soon (used car but new to me). Undecided if a catch can will do much (it gets cold where I am. Required to keep my EGR system.
I went from a 1.5 DCI (Renault), to a Dynamic Force 2.0 (Toyota).
Modern diesels suck in city and short trips, which is what I ended up doing. Had to replace my four injectors (bad fuel? bad injectors?) in that Megane.
At least Toyota tries. It's got dual injection (port and direct), a chain, and vvti, with a 39% efficiency, stil has EGR and all that fluff.
Shame Toyota will 'downsize' in the next generation. Small capacity, highly strung turbos, bye bye reliability. All for the sake of emissions. Anyway, in ten years, we might not even be allowed petrol cars anyway.
I saw a video which recommened installing an oil catch can, claiming that this would prevent the carbon build-up on Direct injection engines.
It will significantly help on most engines but you'll still get soot from the EGR depositing on the intake.
Catch cans help reduce the gunk that glues the carbon from the EGR clogging ur intake. Total delete is the only true way to beat the problem.
7:41 what is considered a longer drive? Would that simply be reaching a certain temperature? For a certain period? Could a 15min freeway drive once a week be a good thing (as an example)? Running at higher revs more often vs trying to conserve fuel by keeping revs low?
@@genomedia44 both, for example, stay away from overdrive to keep your rpms higher while cruising at lower speeds. Plus opt to use the highway ( motorway lol ) to get to your destination when possible in order to get those higher speeds more consistently, thus providing your engine a more "natural" way of cleaning off the deposits.
Valvoline's new oil is showing promise on the intake valves. We are using it and scoping personal cars now. 3rd generation mechanic and engine builder.
Excellent vidéo.
Thank you
How to deal with it? Not buying GDI only engines, multiport is the best por performance and port injection only for longevity and reliability.
Any recommendations which cars to buy? Non gdi etc please
Hi. It would be very helpful if you could make a video or specify some popular car brands on which this problem can occur. Are there, for example, any popular engines in the Japanese car world where this problem occurs? I know on the skyactive engine on the mazda 3 this can occur. Is it widespread at Hyundai ? Does toyota have any ?
I advise strongly against catch cans unless you know exactly what you're doing. Improperly set up cans can overpressure a turbo crankcase causing bad problems. Unless you properly set up a top of the line ($$$) can system, you're really not accomplishing anything other than risk. In my experience, i caught nothing but water in the winter, nothing at all in the summer, & was pooling shocking amounts of oil in the charge pipes, all while the intake valves were completely coked at 20k mi. Luckily, I didn't blow out my main seals.
Wonder if anyone has tested water injection long enough to determine if it helps.
Youd think with the speed it would help keep the valves a little cleaner.
Sure ,carbon isnt water soluble but anything becones water soluble the longer it is exposed.
The intake and ports would probably only xlean up where theres a direction change and droplets cant make the curve so good.
I definitely agree!
Very true...
Don't have that problem... 3.5l V6 petrol engine.. both port and direct injection systems on it.
must be a Toyota V6
Nissan 350Z?
Dry ice blasting works even better.
The smoke is from the valve overlap . Mine egr pipe is super clean but my intake port are almost completely close 😮
Toyota’s have an additional injector in the inlet port to avoid carbon build up
Aromatics ? N-Methyl aniline, also known as NMA, is a chemical compound that can be used in the context of boosting fuel octane
Can this NMA produce gum buildup at high temperatures?
Carbon build up is cause by oil sticking onto the intake valve just cuasing vapors to stick onto the valve. Eliminate oil getting onto the intake valve will reduce vapor sticking onto the intake valve.
How, do you stop oil getting onto intake valves ………….
I have trouble understanding how hydrolocking could be a problem when you spray a cleaner into the intake of an engine. Lets say you have a 2000 cc four cylinder engine with 12:1 in compression ratio that idles at 800 rpm. That means that every 500 cc cylinder is ingesting nearly 500 cc of air 400 times in a minute (or 6.67 times every second) and that the 500 cc air is being compressed to 41.67 cc. Wouldn't you need to inject more than 41.67cc x 6.67 = 278 cc per second to achieve hydrolock? That is a lot of volume
I've never heard of hydrolock being a problem unless you drive into water that is so deep that it comes into the intake or if you have a ignition failure on a Top Fuel Dragster
It is indeed very unlikely but some of the products I've used contained the warning so I'm just covering myself by flagging this up - you might get that guy who decides to use multiple spray cans. Also bear in mind that some drivers have 3 cylinder small capacity engines and the delivery systems of these sprays (especially the pro formulations) are not just aerosol based.
Water injection ❤😊
Does it work in crdi diesel engine....
How about we use very high quality oil and filters. Also stop the higher mileage oil changes. We do all oil changes between 3,000 to 4,000 miles. Always a high quality full synthetic oil and OEM oil filters. Even on the newer engines that state 15,000 to 20,000 mile service. Not at my shop. As the oil gets older, it thins out and lowers cylinder sealing. Its all at very small amounts. It does cause more blow-by and more oil vapors enter the valve cover and intake hose before the throttle body. After that you get build up on the back of the intake valves.
Italian tune up baby.
Really cars are designed to run in a sweet spot of temperature etc. Outside that temp carbon builds up, don't rag out your ride but run it hard.
They need to put mini injectors in GDI engines to spray gas every ten revs or so
Even just a cold start injector or two would help.
The E.G.R. statements at 3:29-3:30 are not true. E.G.R. is only enabled after the engine reaches closed loop and operating temperature and it is never enabled at idle or just low RPM. It primarily is enabled at steady state cruising speeds and part-throttle loads just above cruising speed.
The following P.C.V. statements are also not entirely accurate. The Positive Crankcase Ventilation system is designed to contain the expected levels of "Blow-by" gases from escaping through previous engine designs vents and breathers that just allowed those gases to escape into the atmosphere. The P.C.V. system redirects these gases back into the intake manifold to be burned. It also prevents the gases from condensing into the engine oil where they form acids and deteriorate the engine oil prematurely and can etch the machined surfaces (journals, bores etc...).
The carbon build-up is from engine oil vapor and engine oil being deposited on the intake valve and passages. Some oil comes down the intake valve past the stem seal and guide. Primarily, the PCV system draws oil vapor through the intake manifold and contributes to the carbon build-up that does not get washed away without wet-flow induction systems (such as carburetion, throttle-body fuel injection or port-fuel injection). So, the problem stems from the move to Direct Injection alone. Direct injection should always be coupled with Port injection to prevent this occurrence. I personally think the gains from D.I. are not worth all the extra complexity and loss of durability. Port injection is still the best all-around way to introduce fuel into a gasoline combustion engine.
Catch-cans, if properly designed will indeed reduce the rate of oil vapor entering the intake manifold. Once installed, they should be opened and cleaned out regularly to maximize the intended effect of keeping the oil vapor out of the intake manifold and as way to monitor the engines overall health by visually seeing the levels of blow-by being captured.
Thank you so much for the clarification to my understanding, I think I got the wrong end of the stick here, unless there is a car maker out there that does something different to most, so I have snipped out the mention of warm up and idle. I'll use your comments to further improve the knowledge I can share and really appreciate your taking the time to share your wisdom. What a great community we have on here!
Unless your talking just on dpi variable revs you not only Italian tune up with the bonus oil flow speed. driving a car over its life using the lowest revs will build carbon up and low flow of oil causeing faster wear and tear
Just had my inlet valves walnut blasted
Eliminating the egr system would be the easiest way.
Most of my driving is at highway speeds. I never have a problem.
I use the good old Italian tune up on the m25
Sadly it's a myth, you will never get the engine hot enough.
Buy a petrol with port and direct injection or a Suzuki they are port injection only because they don't sell them in the USA or buy am older vehicle like my 1997 Toyota Hilux it has a carburator unfortunately that's only in Australia
Is this stuff more of an issue for the deisel, rather than a petrol engine? EGR valves are more common on deisels right?
They all have EGR now! Even Particulate filters are being put on petrol engines now.
Variable turbines do not like when you delete egr
Catch can, match can, …dirty knees, look at these. Don’t attach anything to your engine that is not designed to be there. Simple as.
Do you think premium diesel will help reduce/not increase carbon build up?
No
Good know thanks.
Modern cars suck lol.
I used to change my cars every few years because all my journeys were 5 mins or less between jobs and it was hard on the cars, seems like modern cars have NOT fixed that ptoblem just made it worse ...
An electric car might actually have a use case there lol 😂😂.
Retired now and happy with an ebike .😂😂
5:58?? Errm just no. Particle filter has no effect on carbon build up in intake or combustion chamber, as that's after any EGR happens, just reduces the amount of particulate combustion products that make it out the tail pipe.
Modern engines now use a PF before the EGR for this very reason. Gen 3 engines were moving towards this system. Anything older then you are probably right but I'm specifically mentioning MODERN engines here for that point.
I’m going to be using Valvoline’s new Restore and Protect oil to help keep the engine clean from the start.
I'll have to investigate that one, I've not heard of it before. Thanks for the heads up.
Unfortunately the area that is experiencing carbon fouling is the valves and intake systems which are not exposed to the engine oil nor the fuel. So neither oil nor fuel additive will affect the issue at hand which is dirty, oily air directed into the intake from the pcv & the egr. Those two emissions systems are the Achilles heel of these modern engines. You could also include the fuel management systems that cuts off cylinders and oil in the name of fuel economy, which is a joke. Physically it takes x amount of power to move a specific vehicle a certain speed, the fuel has x amount of power per a gallon, it's just limited by the laws of physics. The quest for unreasonable fuel economy and emissions are costing the consumer a fortune and driving the price of vehicles sky high.
Caused by direct injection, fixed with water/ meth injection
PCVs are the biggest contributor to carbon build up.
Unfortunately the days are long gone when it was dumped into the atmosphere.
Stop making direct injection petrol engines
It's not carbon, it's hydrocarbon.
EGR delete.
Stupid cars.
There is still the PVC.
I think the car manufacturers thought ok we got to cut emissions .. lets wear the engines out and make more money ... Idiot governments and climate cranks aren't helping ... Catch cans don't really work ... EGR reduction plate is a good idea 😊 ... A rethink from the engine design is needed and the ridiculous regulations need a review .
Now we know ev s are crap we need to sort these diesels out
I really would like to understand what car makers are thinking. I just leased a '25 Forester with typical Japanese quality in spades and a joy to drive...only to find out it has the fuel system of a 30yr old VW. Yikes.. I wouldn't think Subaru would want it's reputation tarnished so it is confusing.
Great video I’ve watched GDI vids over and over but finally learned something new