Most Common 350Z Issues Episode 7
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- Опубліковано 30 чер 2024
- Hey guys just a simple run down on a few common 350Z problems for various years and models. Let me know if have any other ones in the comment section below. Once again, thanks for watching, and see you in the next video.
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He's straight to the point and don't waste your time with bs. Very informative
Thanks for the support, much appreciated! 👍
After 11 years of ownership of a 2007 HR model I can tell you that I've experienced most of these. You're 100% spot on with the tips. Broken door handle, rear diff. bushing, window regulators, scratched interior, TPMS issues... All of those I experienced.
Thanks for making this video. Hope some future buyers pay attention to this.
Josh Bartlett anything else??
The drive belt broke at 14k, but I believe it ended up being a recall on the '07's. They fixed that on the '08's. The rear hatch struts don't last long and need to be replaced every few years, don't forget to replace the springs with them as well. The clear coat on the car is thin and partially non existent, you'll end up wet sanding and respraying clear coat to keep it looking good. The paint jobs just don't come out very well from Nissan. The speakers are comically horrible in quality and should be replaced with anything you can find which would be an improvement over what it comes with from the factory. Being a staggered setup on the wheels you can't rotate them, so the tires wear very fast. I wouldn't spend too much $ on a set. I just put on my 4th set, this time I went with firehawks and think it was a good value for the $.
The car has held up well overall. But everything the video covered and what I just wrote is what I've experienced. As of today I sit just shy of 140k miles. I've owned the car since brand new. Hope that helps.
Josh Bartlett my 08 hr has recently developed a hesitation at low rpm on light throttle...it kinda stutters for a fraction of a second and makes driving in slow traffic a jerky process...otherwise it runs perfectly...have you had any experience of this?
What type of gas have you been putting in it? I'll only use Shell or BP premium fuel only.
Josh Bartlett always use shell vpower nitro...had it 4 years and its been perfect up till now...it only happens on light throttle driving and pulling away from standstill,fast driving is unaffected
Very informative, I like how you went into detail with all the issues. Great video man! If you could make a part 2 that’d be great. 😁
Spot on with all these issues, Sir.
I have had an 2004 350Z for about 4 years now. And so, on the oil consumption, which had me freaked out... I went with a small, in-line oil separater for the Pcv Sucker Line. I've tried several oil catch can-set ups, but I like this little filter the best. I saw the same set up I have, at Harbor Freight the other day. Like for an air compressor. It's Cheap. Solves the problem and passes Cal Smog. Just use the Approved Vac Line type...
Charlie....you've covered a lot! Appreciate you, thank you very much, guy!
Greats vids every time. Very informative for Z owners. Keep em coming!
Sorry for the super late response. Thanks man!
Thanks!
I've had my '04 350z for 7 years. Super fun car for the price.
Adding to your list, these are a few issues that I've (gotten) fixed (or tried to fix);
- Replaced rear hatch gas struts (like you mentioned)
- Rear hatch often requires two pushes on the release button (even after replacing the springs & adding pennies in there, removing the weight, as well as a rear wiper delete).
- Rear stabilizer bar control link bushings.
On my to do (or to live with) list;
- Front, lower control arm bushings (like you mentioned)
- Replace rear stabilizer bar end links (cause of squealing when accelerating [& turning] over small bumps?)
- Passenger seat forward/backward slide switch intermittently works.
- Squealing brakes, only when going in reverse.
- Rare & random/intermittent sub-woofer function for years.
- 6-disc CD changer stuck & non-functional for years.
Pic of my Z -- imgur.com/gVZQ56V
Yeah, I've ran into several of these issues as well. They've just not been as common as some others, thanks for the feedback though, I haven't had too many touring package z's. However, my girlfriend does have one and I have noticed the intermittent subwoofer issue as well. Thanks for letting me know, and good luck with your z, they really are fun cars.
I bought a 2003 350Z last summer, the 1st owner had added wood grain interier to all the inside areas that always get bad. i love it, and it will never get scratched etc ever.
Keith Simpson That's cool, it's all about personal preference. As long as you like it, then it's great.
Very nice video, help me alot on my reserch for some problems on mine ! Thanks dude !
Awesome, glad I could help you out!
stopped 2 minutes in to say YEP lol did a cd009 swap, changed filter o rings, painted interior pieces, installed a pcv oil catch can, replaced flca and uca as well as lower ball joints, window regulator went out, center dash door doesnt work, single cup holder broken, rear catch struts are shot, oem plastic radiator caps blew, tpms are shot & did diff and subframe bushings....only my first z lol oh and the clutch hard line from the master! have to delete that because theres a huge loop in it that catches debris. Good content my guy!!
Nick Nunez lmfao, sounds like your on the same boat as me, lol. I've replaced some of these parts so many times I can't keep track haha
I have 04 G35, and all the things you said, actually had to fix >.< except the back
Holy shitz 15 350zs? Lmao
I own one and want to get another. They are so cheap and and look nice.
Nice Video, looking forward to episode 2
VQNorth
Thanks for the support!
with the windows motors I have repaired all of mine by replacing the brushes, works like a charm
Great content brother.
Very helpful!
Just bought a 04 for my wife. Thanks for the info. I hear a thump when going into D. Will check diff bushing for leak.
Rudie Yeah, no problem. Good luck with the z they're really fun cars.
Wow...sincerely, thank you SO much for covering ALL these issues within a span of 15 minutes my friend!! Fyi, from my 2004, with only 70k miles...Air Bag light comes on sometimes. If at one time or another I dropped something underneath the seat or moved the wire assembly. The Airbag light would flash...any prevention's there??
It's probably your clock spring, this causes the SRS light to come on and go off intermittently when the steering wheel is turned throughout the duration of daily driving. I've had to replace the clock spring a few times, including on my personal car because of this.
I’ve had everyone one of these issues on my Z except the differential one.
Great video, looking in to picking up a '07 and this helped me alot. Cheers.
philip danielsson no problem, good luck tho, they're great cars overall. 👍
Holy shit you responded quickly!
ITomorrow I'll drive the car for the first time.
But something I noticed when I sat in it yesterday was the clutch being really heavy (car just sitting in the parking lot).
Is the clutch supposed to be like this or was it because it was not up to temperature, or is there perhaps a future issue here with clutch or gearbox?
You just earned a subscriber! (:
You mean the clutch was hard to depress? Hard to push down? And thanks for the support, I should have another 3-5 videos coming out in the next few weeks.
Hard to push down.
But keep in mind that I'm comparing it to my current 1.2 petrol Seat Leon which has a super soft and 'tall' clutch.
Some clutch pressure plates vary in stiffness, it may be that. But, for the z platform it should be relatively stiff. It's better than the mushy clutch feel that z's and g's tend to get.
I see you have 3.6k subscribers.... i subscribed so you can grow ur channel :) btw love 350Zs
Thanks bro! I Appreciate the support!
Not any more. In a year it's doubled.
Lmao I just got an 03
And I’ve been learning to drive stick
I started double clutching to help the synchros
I haven’t even used 5th or 6th yet
And I find out 5th grinds too
FmL
Thanks for the vid tho
Super helpful
Thanks man! And it's a common thing, you can still drive the car tho:)
@@fullthrottleperformance if the trans was recently removed, check if the shifter or shifter plate is misaligned. That happened to me and took me a ton of research to figure it out.
meant to reply to you lol
Great video!
Noah Wilson Thanks for the support bro!
Thanks for the information in this video. I just discovered your channel recently and have been watching because I have a 2005 G35 Coupe. Today I just purchased a 2005 350Z with 44,000 original miles. I Carfax'd it and checked with the DMV, no accidents, no floods, only normal maintenance service and the mileage is legit. It is totally stock, just like it came from the dealer, no aftermarket mods of any kind. What advice would you give for my first few mod's, of course after I change hoses, belts, tires and fix both doors so they open from the outside!! Paid $5,200 for the car, think I got a screaming dope deal.
Sounds like you got a great deal to me too, lol. That's awesome, honestly with any car the first mods are usually exhaust, and intake, but these cars are pretty limitless with a huge world of aftermarket parts. Go with whatever you think would be awesome to you, but I usually start with exhaust, intake, suspension, etc..
Right away you want to drop a twin turbo in the thing. Racing bucket seats. Aftermarket exhaust. Roll cage. Just the basics to start with.
Had my 05 7 years, at 185k so far, none of these isues. My G35 had a high idle, I fixed with a relearn using pedals & ignition.
Really nice video👍
Thanks man, I appreciate the support!!
I have an 03 350z ive owned for 5 years now and have had a couple of the issues you mentioned, the biggest being 3rd and 5th grind. I put a 009 trans in it and problem solved, i also put a light weight flywheel in at same time which made the car considerably snappier. Now im dealing with a clicking left front ball joint, not sure how easy lower ball joints are to replace in these cars but im about to find out. Nice vid
Cody Hackl I'm looking forward to a lightweight flywheel, lol. The ball joints are difficult to get back in without ripping the boot
Same o ring issue with 06 Nissan titan cheap replacement, dealer parts guy played stupid at first wanted to sell whole extender then when I started to leave he pulled a handful out of his desk draw and said you mean one of these.
Lol, that's the stealership for you
I have a Japanese 03. Gearbox shifts just like a new one. It has 95k (KM) on the clock right now. Interior is in pristine condition also.
I wonder if your z ever had the cd009 revision done. But awesome, glad to hear you have an awesome condition z:)
your the man
You're *
Ive own my 350 04 for 3 years now and it sucks not having cup holders mine broke already ._. , my indoor handle broke, the trunk is soo heavy and my shit broke too LOL Thanks for the video
I need more videos on 350z!!!
The idle issue might be can shaft position sensor same thing happened on my buds de g35
The window motors is a simple fix but you have to take the motor completely apart to get at the carbon brushes. The brushes have tins of life left on them but what happens is there's a small plastic guide that the brushes go through that gets clogged with carbon dust and the springs on the brushes are too weak to push onto the motor. Wd40 clearned mine right up and never a problem in 4 years now.
That wido motor on the ground was easily repairable and I would much rather have a motor that's been fixed over a brand new one that will need to be fixed in no time. There's steps ypu can do to the brush sleeves that will make it so it never is a problem ever again.
Wow!!! There's an 07 down the street for sale with 60k miles on it. I've been considering it, but now after your vid and reading the comments I wonder. My 87 300zx was a good one back in the day.
If some interior scratches and sensor replacements scare you away then you probably need a brand new car with a warranty. The 350's are super reliable where it counts. Most of them will go for 200k+ miles easy without major work.
@@coffeeandlifting I learned my lesson with a used 05 Corvette, thank God I had a warranty! I'm still driving an old 2000 camry 240k miles with ice cold factory air and a forever check engine light😄. I had a z in 87 and I'm a still a fan.
These issues with the 350z would never keep me from buying one of these cars. I'm looking for my second one as we speak.
I have a 350z and here are some more issues:
- Crankshaft Sensors- Noisy and grinding gearbox - Window Motor- Rattles inside interior- Banana arms- Lower control arm bushes- Rust
350’s are the cheapest high performance car you could buy however they are heaps of shit for daily’s. The gearbox grind is a huge issue and is well known to Nissan. Only fix is a gearbox recon. All the bushes seem to be made of paper mashy. The interior scratches easily and will start to rattle which really pisses you off on your daily commute. Window motor goes and you window randomly goes down through the night. Oil usage about 1ltr every 1-2 months. Arches WILL bubble and rust. Banana arms are at least 200£ each. Lower control arm bushings are cheap but a lot of labour. When sensors go your car runs like shit. Replace both sensors on top/back of engine for good measure. Interior is loud as hell also, so loud it’s hard to have a conversation. Read carefully before buying.
Seymore Butts Yes, a lot of what you said is covered in the video. However, I have to disagree with the "heaps of shit for daily" comment. I've had my z for a daily for over 2 years, yes I've dealt with some issues, but nothing has been unbearable. Many z owners i talk to love their cars. Plus every car on the market has issues with age, not just z's.
Seymore Butts which sensors are you talking about...my 08 hr has recently developed a hesitation at low rpm on light throttle which is driving me fucking nuts
On automatics too😬?
The crankshaft and camshaft sensors commonly fail on these engines. I also had to replace the electric radiator fan assembly which failed after 12 years on my Z. Ironically, the new fan assembly came with a 12 year guarantee.
Will you be making a video on the oil leakage/ breather install with part numbers to buy? (Just subbed)
Johnny Tran Are you talking about the oil leakage behind the sandwich plate for the oil filter? And thanks bro, I appreciate the support!
Charlie, I have a '06 automatic roadster and the car has begun making a deep sounding thunk when put in drive. Any ideas what that could be? Thanks man!
Currently experiencing dealing with a P1759 code on the transmission. Second one installed just failed and waiting on another low mileage one for a 2005. Just praying this one is the right one to get the car back on the road.
ua-cam.com/video/GAveITCubOQ/v-deo.html
This guy explains how to fix it
don't waste your time by putting a breather hose/cap your intake vacuum, i recommend buying a cheap oil catch can online, it helps tons, and keeps a proper looped system.
I've done a lot more research on this method since this video came out. I will be uploading a proper set-up and go over everything in this video again soon
Oh, be careful buying replacement trunk struts. Non OEM types tend to
have areas where they mount that are bigger then OEM and when you shut the
rear hatch, it does not sit correctly..
I have seen this before, I am not too familiar with the brand names though, but hey, thanks for the info.
Can confirm, did it with mine.
thank you
No problem my dude👍
If you ever do a clutch again, show a rear main seal swap. Another nightmare flaw that these cars get. No one on UA-cam has a good break down of the swap. You did a great job on the clutch swap, but doing the rear main seal is smart for those unaware of this issue. Subbed
Richard Blix I will for sure do that, I want to get a JWT clutch kit soon. I'll look into it, thanks for the support tho, I appreciate it.
Gave your video a thumbs up. Where is your shop?
Right outside of Sacramento, California.
I’m glad my 02 doesn’t have the painted interior bits
With reapect to the transmission grinding in 3 and 5, do you
mean it just makes a grinding sound while driving in that gear or
is it a thing of when you change from 2nd to third you grind while
trying to shift into that gear?
I find my 04 will be hard to shift without double clutching when it
is real cold out until everything warms up. But once warm, it
has no issues. Even with 125 K miles on it now, it still shifts good.
The one thing I do notice is that the force needed to depress the clutch pedal
is a bit more then with my 2014 Infiniti Q60S and it feels like you
need two feet as compared to my 1990 5.0L Mustang's clutch pedal.
I use a full synthetic gear oil in the Z and that helped over the original Nissan
gear oil. Syncros work well once everythingis warmed up. Even cold it is better then
it was with the Nissan fluid.
Have you thought about switching to Redline MT-85? I've used it multiple times and it always seems to do well. Just make sure you use GL-4, DO NOT use GL-5 if you ever try it. But the clutch is always pretty heavy on z's unless the slave or master cylinder is starting to go bad. Flushing it with Motul RBF 600 feels super nice to me and should help with your double clutching issue as long as it's properly bled. But as for the grinding issue, it just simply grinds into 3rd and 5th with the CD0#1(also known as the CD008) Trans. The CD009 or CD0#2 works amazing and can hold up to a substantial amount of power, and I've never heard of a grinding issue with it.
archangele1 If you want improved shifting from the clutch pedal, replace it. The OEM one is absolute garbage, and I realized that the second I replaced mine with the RJM Performance clutch pedal. Extremely worth the money in my opinion. Though I always knew the OEM clutch pedal wasn’t very comfortable to drive with, I never knew just how awful it was until I got the RJM pedal in.
I have tried the MT-85 from Redline and it works well. The car with 125K on it is going to have it's clutch replaced before it fails and ruins everything. While in there I'll dump the slave cylinder and probably the one on top since I have seen many people with these cars have issues with the hydraulic clutch system.
I'm in Florida and I am sure the heat kills the things. The thing here is that in the winter it actually gets
down to 20 degrees and that is the only time the shifting is a bit stiff. When it is 50 degrees or warmer,
I have absolutely no issues with shifting. I have noticed that on both the 350 and the Q60 you really have to have it together with respect to clutching and shifting timing or both cars will give that characteristic
grinding. I have found my old Mustang as well as much older muscle cars are a LOT more forgiving.
My friend's 67 GTO was fairly simple to rev match and shift without the clutch. You could also speed shift it fairly easy (Holding the gas to the floor while clutching and up shifting real fast.. Not easy with the Z or the Q)
I find these newer cars are not as forgiving.
ok this guy is god
Lol, thanks bro👍👍
TPMS sensors go bad on all vehicles that have them. Not just 350Z's. Most tire installers won't replace them when they change your tires when the car comes in with the light off. As he noted, they last about 7 years. They are about 45-65 bucks each and it is easier to have them changed at the tire change than to change them later when you will pay for the dismount/ mount charge again.
O Damn, you DID cover it, my apologies !
I have a 2003 Nissan 350z and I really love the car but I’m considering selling it because of the oil problems my car has , another amazing thing that happens to me is no matter what I do I can not read my dipstick I could have just done an oil change drive around for a few then next morning check my oil and it won’t read. So it’s hard for me to know if I am actually burning or not but my rear bumper gets built up with soot so I believe it might be.
What would you recommend I do to help with the oil burning issue I saw your video on the breather but that would only vent it to the atmosphere and not stop it from loosing oil
If you take some rough grit sandpaper and sand the tip (in-between the low/high) part of the dip stick the oil will stick better, and you can read it a little more accurately. And the oil breather filter I did, doesn't allow the oil to be sucked into the upper plenum, hopefully avoiding the oil burning issue these engines have. Hope that helps
@@fullthrottleperformance In my case, the oil did not get sucked into the upper plenum but it spits oil in the engine bay. What would you suggest in my case please? Thanks.
Had the original 03 engine and trans w the 3rd gear issue easy fix is to throttle blip and double clutch i tend to double clutch regularly out of habit just from my lifetime trucker father always stressing how much better it is on the clutch and trans overall! Never grinded unless a low rpm fast/forced shift without double clutching so double clutch and you’re golden at any rpm I always like to wind em out at least to 3k minimum! Your welcome
I'm actually a truck driver, learned on a manual, and drove that Kenworth for a while. Never actually had an issue with that truck whatsoever. But, a car is much different than a big rig, I can shift my truck without ever touching the clutch, the only time I'd have to would be to start in 3rd, because truckers never start in first, it's a waste of time and effort. However, I know all about double clutching, but it's not commonly used in trucking anymore, unless you're carrying a very heavy load. But anyways, you can't just double clutch to solve a synchro issue. Trust me I've tried. I've owned a lot of 350zs. 03-04 zs transmissions just suck
Love this, I actually loved my Z but these little things started to annoy me
It does get annoying, but after you fix stuff one by one, it all goes away......until one of the window motors stop again lmao
@@fullthrottleperformance Yeah my window would roll down and roll halfway back up and stop lol. But thanks for the upload and the reply. I will subscribe
That seems to happen a lot with these cars lol. But hey man no problem, I'm enjoying the fact that I can reply right now(because smaller channel), when I do upload a lot, it gets kinda difficult tho... :/ Thanks for the sub, should have two-three more videos out within the next few days:)
@@fullthrottleperformance Awesome cant wait
@@omnione12 Thanks for the support!
my z has always slipped since I got in 2017 I rarely used the car until now. I’m getting maintenance done and clutch is making a noise I think it’s the throw out bearing
It's when I drive slow or go over road bumps or dip
For the interior trim i wrapped it in matte black 3m. Its 99% identical to the paint.
Where do you get that wrap shit?
One thing missed that’s extremely pervasive on 350Zs. The door regulators/stops! Those heavy doors are always looking to chop your leg off or bang your elbow!
You need to shim the door stops and they will work better than new.
Can you please do a video on how to adjust the headlights on my '05..thanks !
I will be lining up the front end on my girlfriends z very soon, I can do a video of adjusting the headlights as well. Thanks for the idea!
Having trouble cranking my 2003 350Z , as I have changed all my sensors, fuel pump, ignition coils, spark plugs, everything basically and most recent today the crankshaft sensor and still it wont start up. Even a Locksmith came too check out if the key had got disprogrammed and it was ok. Soo what could be the issue in that case?
Did you let your woman drive it?
On the issue of the pcv valve.. Would an oil catch can help better than venting the oil vapors?
Yes, an oil catch can is a better option
You forgot to mention the position cam sensor that goes on the back of the head. I had a lot of problems with it. My 06 rev up motor has a total of 4 sensors. Also, about the pcv valve, what happens when oil comes through the air filter?
Thanks.
Yeah, I was just pointing out the most common issues I've came across, the sensor I haven't had too many issues with. And the filter just allows vapor to be alliviated, and I'll be doing another video soon, on the proper way to install the filter because the video I did, wasn't completely accurate on the process because you're supposed to drill through the pcv valve.
I just replaced both camshaft sensors and the crankshaft sensor on my 2004 350z. People on the Nissan forums recommended that all three sensors be replaced when the first sensor failure occurs. The Nissan forum users also recommended the Hitachi parts. They said that some of the over-the-counter parts (Autozone) are notorious for premature failure. I bought all three sensors from Rockauto but only replaced the failed bank one camshaft sensor. (For some reason, the bank one camshaft sensor always seems to fail first on this engine.) The other camshaft sensor, on the driver's side, failed about six months later so I replaced that and the crankshaft sensor. The crankshaft sensor is easiest to replace and you can replace the camshaft sensors without removing any hoses, throttle body, or other parts on my 2004 350z.
No one really covers the doors handle problem. After a period of time, the door handle mechanisms breaks inside to where you can no longer open your doors from the outside.
Exactly the issue, I recently posted a video of replacing that door handle on my car.(Shown in this video)
haha just worked with a 350 w/ broken handles like that😂
Modified Mafia Co Super common issue with z's lol
Not to mention they're around 100 dollars each..
hack deez Check Quirk Parts on eBay, they're a Nissan genuine parts retailer and they sell them for 65-80 for a brand new OEM one
Full throttle, have you had any common issues with abs,vdc, slip? Just got into an 04 and those lights are on.
Could be brake fluid, YAW rate sensor could be unplugged if the prior owner tried drifting it, a abs sensor going bad throws the lights, low trans fluid if its an automatic. Those are a few reasons I've seen
Sick video! I have this issues were my front right ball joint or something makes a clunk sound. Like metal hitting metal. Would u know what this can be ?
Sergio Aragon could be your compressing arm bushings, this happened to my girlfriend once and we just pulled over and I found out it was a loose ball joint nut. I'd just recommend getting down and torque everything down and make sure everything is tight. Loose suspension's no joke lol
Full Throttle thank you for the info. I really appreciate it !!
Sergio Aragon no problem, hope you find the issue
Very informative video thanks, you really k ow your stuff about this car👍been thinking getting a 350z or a G35 as a daily or 2nd car. Are you in southern California?
Jake R Thanks, I appreciate the support. The z or g chassis is great and honestly I wouldn't pick a different platform. I'm in Nor-Cal, Sacramento. But if you do get a z or g check the oil frequently. My car doesn't burn any oil, but a lot of people talk about this issue. But other than having to check your oil they're great cars with plenty of power stock.
Hey Charlie, I'm in need of some assistance for my 350z and you seem like a really knowledgeable guy and you actually responded to my message a while back , so cleaning the throttle bodies for my car has turned to an absolute nightmare, after cleaning my old ones I began getting a high idle and had the engine light flash on, so then my mechanics reprogrammed and it did nothing, after that I got new throttles bodies and the mechanic took it to the Nissan dealer to get it reprogrammed and that costed a lot, and still even though the check engine light is gone my idle is still a little high and rpms move slow and still at around 1-1500 rpms I'm broke as all heck and my car is still not right I dont know what else I could do to get to normal idle, any word of advice?
Did you disconnect your battery when you cleaned them?
@@fullthrottleperformance Well my mechanic cleaned them but I have a suspicion that they probably didn't that's why I had to buy new ones because the older ones once cleaned were making my idle all crazy and the engine light turned on:/
@@Thebizkit123 yeah, the battery needs to be disconnected, and brake cleaner shouldn't be used. Maf cleaner/softer on electronics cleaners should be used on electronically controlled throttle bodies. Have you tried an ECU reset?
@@fullthrottleperformanceHmm yeah i'm hoping they didn't use brake cleaner on these new ones they installed that's for sure...well I know that they did the whole pedal dance, used some computer to make the engine light go away that helped nothing with my surging idle, when they took it to the nissan dealer they said they did a reprogramming in getting the new throttle bodies to match up with the ecu, so I think they might have done that if i'm correct anyways the engine light is gone but my idle is slightly above 1000rpms and the revs kinda hang in the 1000-1500 rpms range my car literally is impossible to stall right now I just dont know what else to do to get the idle back to normal, you think it will correct itself over time?
@@Thebizkit123 look up how to do an ECU reset yourself, and see if by resetting the ecu will make any difference, and I wouldn't go to that shop anymore. Do they work on Nissan's primarily, or are they just a regular, "all vehicle" shop
I'm looking into buying a 03 350z with 103k miles. Should I stay away? I dont want to have to replace or rebuild a transmission
Have you done the oil pressure sensor?
Hey i work at a discount tire and if you ever need a TPMS relearn they will do it for free. Just want everyone to save some money 👍
Dave Ward Thanks for the info bro, much appreciated! 👍
which one? i work at one in AZ lmao
My control arm bushings on my g35 are finally giving in past 100k squeaking on bumps, but that's old age for ye. Looking to get white line bushings soon!
Replacing them is definitely worth it, good luck with your install. Hope the video helps with the Whiteline ones as well.
is there a way to clean out the engine top that you showed in the box? I know my car burns oil im in the process of ordering a vented catch can. but i want to clean my top cover out.
Yeah you can remove it and clean it if you want. Just make sure your careful with the throttle body(s) and disconnect the battery so you don't have to do a idle relearn
Question; On the 2004 (de motor) 350z for the roadster, did Nissan put these TPMS on this model?
As far as I know they came standard on every model
Hey man thank you for the detailed video! I have a question though, I am about to buy an 08 350z HR, is there anything I need to look out for? The car needs some body work, the traction control won’t come off and shows a light, and it has Lambo doors which are hideous ( can I convert these back to normal?). Please help, this is the scariest purchase i am about to buy.
Richard Delvecchio If you're gonna get it for a hella good deal it might be worth it. It all depends whether they are welded on. And where the welds were placed.
Honestly, just check it over completely. Just like any other car purchase, but check over all the stuff in this video and other vids alike. In the end, it's all about the price, miles, maintenance records, title status, etc
I have an 04 touring. And i have the strut door handle and wondow motor problem. Just wondering if you could tell me how much all this will cost to fix. Generally speaking
For a used OEM window motor, trunk struts, and a new OEM door handle should cost in between $130-200 depending on where you get everything. And whether it's OEM or A/M. And to have someone else install everything I'd say in the $300-400 area altogether.
Hey thanks for the vid! I have a 2004 350z convertible with 88k miles and i noticed over the last couple months that it wasn’t giving me as much power. It periodically got worse, to the point where when it reached 4k revs, the car would stall and just wouldn’t go above 4k revs. I ran codes on it and i got p0335 (cam sensor) and p0327 (knock sensor). I got all sensors replaced and although the check engine light doesnt pop up and even though no more codes pop up, the car still isn’t running with as much power.
When i shift into first to get the car running, i have to rev it a lot to get it to move forward. Any suggestions on what to do or go about this issue?
Do the rpm's go up smoothly, and feel normal? If your engine is running fine, but the car isn't accelerating as it should it might be your clutch starting to wear out. 80-100k miles is often clutch replacement time for z's, in my own experience.
Ya but it's pretty easy to tell if your clutch is going. Plus when the rpms go up the clutch grabs and you stop losing power.
Are these mechanical problems the same with the automatics?
I already change the 4 lower control arms and I still have a clunk noise coming from driver side and feels like is from that area, do you have an idea what could be?
Francisco Arceo Núñez Aftermarket, or OEM replacements?
I dont know where you are located but I have a 2007 1000HP TwinTurbo LS1/T6060 /8.8 IRS with 4.10s..I have full interior but its all custom aluminum and Carbon Fiber and I have Red Alcantera Corbeau seats with a center console delete and door card delete and you said you are wanting tge parts...I will give them ALL to you.The parts might be in my garage on my rental property that is vacant or in my garage here in Vail where I live..you pay for shipping and you can have it al and not worry about cup holders which obviously a huge deal for you.I removed EVERYTHING at just over 7,000 miles so the stuck is all like new...Your door handle issue is from people opening the door AS YOUR UNLOCKING IT AND THEY ARE PULLING..I also have a BUILT 08 which has forged EVERYTHING,Port matched intake and heads which are a stage 3 turbo swirl,as is the entire intake and runners,cams,springs,injectors and a Precision Twin Turbo set up and im running just over 780hp and 731 trq..It has a Liberty Walk kit on it which was fully built by a guy in Santa Monica and I have 18x13s with 315/30s rear and 18x 9.5 with 275/35s and use CUSTOM VALVED BC COILOVERS ON BOTH CARS BUT anyway if you want thise like new parts which are wrapped up in plastic shipping sheets and boxed.Actually it here in Colorado with me so let me know before I get rid of all these boxes that are in ny way ALL THE TIME!! LOL.If it will help you,leave a message and ill get my info to you.Take care...C
Hit me up on Instagram, @Justdriftcharlie send some pics. My profile is the one with the same picture I have here on UA-cam.
Full Throttle Hey Bro..Im sorry but I dont have or use instagram..Its just my gig.I have Email amd FB ..Thats it.Ill happily take your email..I own a few Dispensaries here in Colorado and I have a dedicated person for the stores social media.That is a big reason I am private with public info.Let me know what you would like to do..Cheers
Okay, that's understandable though. My facebook is Jusdrift Charlie, and has my photo there as well. Shoot me a message, with the stuff you're talking about. Sounds like you've got a pretty impressive build. I'd like to see some pictures of that too! lol.
Full Throttle Ok man.Easy enough.Ill hit ya up after I get off the road.Im dealing with heavy snow at Loveland Pass.Ill give u my info on a DM.C
Having issues on my 05. Brembo brakes. They are sticking so I have to put my foot under brake pedal and lift to release. "Sometimes " my abs and slip light comes on. Any ideas?
It could just be low fluid, those lights usually come on when the fluid is too low. If you have enough fluid, I'd recommend replacing the brake fluid. If you don't have a power bleeder, you'll need to bring it to a shop.
I have a question, I want to buy a new car but my limit is $7,000 I wanted a Nissan 350z but is there something else I should think about first or just a flat out better option?
It's all up to what you like, and what you're into, I personally love the 350Z. But, I love drifting. So, if you're looking for a pretty dependable car, you can pick up a nice 350z for 7k. Check out craigslist, facebook, offerup, and letgo and just look around. Everything covered in this video are just common issues, every car has them, but this just highlights some of the issues with the z33. I think they're great cars, but it's all up to what you like, and what you'd be buying it for. Good luck, and buying a carfax for a car before buying one is always a good thing.
Some people really like the Mazda Miata. Both the 350z and the Miata have pretty good reviews but I think the 350z is a faster car and the Miata is more reliable with less issues.
Does it matter if the lower control arm is rubbing on the frame?
Yes, it will make your LCA rub off too much material to replace the bushing, so you'll need to replace the entire arm, instead of just the bushing
I’m dealing with all these problems lol
I've a 2003 Auto., it's exhibiting the ECU. warning Light on the dashboard, when an OBD2 code reader is plugged-in it indicates a [Primary] Ignition prob., cylinder #4 Changed Ignition Coil #4 and all spark plugs, new (fully-synthetic oil) the code has returned...
Possibly a wiring issue, does it say there's a circuit fault? And try testing the compression, hopefully that's not the issue for you tho. Let me know what you find, I can't think of any reasons off the top of my head besides a wire fault/circuit fault, or plugs/coil. Where did you get the Ignition coil from? Used? or new?
Thanks !
Yes, I've taken my 'z' to the Nissan Main Dealership, they've re-read the error code/s,
and are now stripping part of the engine to enable access to test Primary Ignition...
Could be rather expensive - I might as well have left my arm and a leg with them,
but hopefully they'll be able to be definitive; they're a NISMO. specialist garage.
PS.: The replacement ignition coil for #4 is a new aftermarket part.
Will let you know what transpires...
That differential bushing going bad did the diff shake a little when shifting gears bc thats what mine is doing from 2nd to 3rd and i think its the bushing im not 100 percent?
Mikey Gio I didn't replace the bushing, however, your diff will jump around if the rear bushing is bad. I've had a bad rear diff bushing for almost 40k miles and never really had an issue that really bugged me to replace. The only reason I want to replace mine is you eliminate wheel hop when I drift. Otherwise, It's not that big of an issue. The shaking issue I believe it's because of the design of the transmission linkage. I have a shaking when I let off the gas and I'm slowing to a stop occasionally. But all the z's I've had have this issue. I'm assuming it's because of the design of the linkage
Full Throttle thanks so much for the reply really appreciate it
Any idea of what a valve seal replacement might cost?
Honestly, I don't know. Never had to do that before, but if you do I'd change the valve covers at the same time since they're known for leaking
Hey buddy GREAT video thank you!! Any idea of whats going on with a '03 trunk that opens on it's own? It's like you can hear a relay clicking-the trunk opens-and finally kills the battery..any ideas?...anyone?
Mike Poirier wow, I've never heard of that issue. Do you have an aftermarket alarm system? And thanks for the support!
No aftermarket-found the same in a couple of online forums but no clear answer-Thanks you got a new sub!
Mike Poirier Thank you, let me know if you find the issue.
Looking to get a 2004 Enthusiast Model, anything else I should look out for?
Since this video was made, these still apply. I'm sure if I sat for a little while and thought about it, I could probably come up with more. Like valve covers leaking, oil cooler o-ring leaking, valve adjustment, etc. But only stuff like that, overall, IMO these are some of the best engines Nissan ever made. There's a reason they still use them, even after almost 20 years since the VG30DE
Full Throttle Thanks so much for the reply! Was a big help!
Covered a lot of stuff I found on my z lol
I still haven't fixed everything on my z, lol.
No idea why the heck they painted parts from the factory LOL for some reason with the g35 they left it grey so those don't have the issue.
Why? I don't know lol, but Nissan continued to do it in the G37 as well. Dumbass idea from Nissan
Are these problems common too with Automatics?, seen a 04 and 05 models and they are quite cheap
Pretty much everything besides the trans issues, I've seen 200k mi zs with auto trans that still shift fine lol
@@fullthrottleperformance thank you
07-09 owners know these 3 letters all too well, C S C mine just blew on me will be replacing it with a zspeed HD eliminator kit
Hahahaha, yes the CSC is quite an engineering failure lol
Whats a CSC
@@jesseshiness concentric slave cylinder, basically the clutch slave is mounted inside the bellhousing as oppose to the usual when it's mounted to the side and pushes on a clutch fork that's attached to the throwout bearing, a CSC is basically all of that in one package and the one in the later model 350z's and 370z's are synonymous for going bad quick
Hey I went in recently to get my control arms changed and the guy said that my sub- frame is bent and needs to be replaced. How much do these jobs estimate too in $$$. Or can it be accomplished on the driveway? Really need help, I'm getting charged $1200 for a new sub -frame .
Front, or rear?
Full Throttle front! Forgot to mention haha I guess the sub frame caused the left control arm bushing to pop and left ball joint to leak grease. It was in a "small" accident, front left got hit.
It is a little more difficult to drop the front sub frame, but it can be done in the garage or driveway if it's not raining, etc. I did it back before I had my shop on my girlfriends car when her's was in an accident. You'll just need to support the engine and remove the braces, lca's, etc. Then throw the new one up, I'd replace the engine mounts while your at it because it'd be a lot better to do while you have it dropped then to do it all again another time. But overall not that hard of a job, not worth paying $1200 to be done, it'll just take a weekend with the buds in a drive way or garage. Make sure your on level ground tho, don't want anything heavy to fall on you while your working under there, lol.
I got a clicking coming from front of car every time I turn left at low speeds. Just replaced both front hubs and it's still their.any ideas? 2006 Z
Sorry man, didn't see this comment. You ever figure out the problem? Replaced anything else?
A screw or nail in your hire.
My mrs has a 350z and i maintain it, one issue I have is shudder under brakes. I know a bit about cars and can't seem to find the cause. have changed rotors etc.
Any insight into this?
driftke70 Is it under hard braking? Or just normal pressure? Could be something loose, or compression arm or lower control arm bushings. Check everything to make sure it's all tight, and check all the bushings. You have any lights on the dash on?
Full Throttle light and hard and fairly violent. Checked all bushes etc will go over it again.
driftke70 it sounds very consistent with warped rotors, but if you've changed them then it has to be part of the suspension. Possibly hub bearings? When you lift the car grab the wheel on both sides and shake it to see if the hub bearing is bad
Full Throttle yeah will do. Hard to get the motivation to work on my mrs car when she doesnt want to pay for parts and the cars always red hot when she vomes home etc haha
driftke70 Well happy wife, happy life, lol.
Hey man i have a 2007 nissan 350z and when i turn the steering wheel to the left there is always a cluncking sound but only when turning left
Sorry man, it could be a lot of different suspension parts. I'm gonna need a little more info than that. It could be the compression arm, ball joint, etc. The easiest way would be to take a look under the car and see if any of the parts look worn, ripped, etc
@@fullthrottleperformance Looks like the little boot for the rack and pinion is ripped would that affect it
@@osbaldorojas1259 The boot itself will not affect it, but if the boot rips and debris gets into whatever part it can cause premature failure. I can't really give any solid answers without seeing anything. Look at all the bushings on all the control arms, remove the boot from the ps rack and replace it if nothing is wrong. Your best bet is to find a place near you that does free diagnosis, that way they just tell you what the issue is lol
can you show how to fix this stuff
I have shown how to fix a few in my other videos, but more will come as parts fail on my car. Hit that subscribe button to watch the video's as they are posted.
how can i fix the 3rd & 5th grind? any idea
Gerald Grant Man, I'm sorry but I'm pretty sure you have to rebuild or buy another transmission. If you have a garage floor and jack stands you can replace your trans(I did it with no knowledge). Watch my video on how to replace a clutch and that will help with replacing your transmission. It's not as bad as it sounds, but if you get a cd009 trans you'll be happy. Good luck and I hope it goes well. If that's what you decide to do 👍
Gerald Grant bro its the synchros you dont need a new tranny common problem with the zs
The problem is the synchros. However, in order to replace them you'll need to drop the transmission and rebuild it. Hence, why I said replace or rebuild. If you replace the synchros, you might as well rebuild the trans if it's all taken apart already.
best answer get a cd009! lol
You could buy the cd009 or double clutch
This guy's pissed about those cup holders. How's he supposed to drive and drink redbull Nissan, big design flaw.
🤣🤣
Where u located here in California bro??
Sacramento, my dude
You know your door handle is broke when it fails to open the door...... Genius....
That's when you know lol, but first you gotta hit that unlock button :D
You don't know shit genius.
I have an 02 fairlady and none of the interior pieces are painted
What do you mean? Like completely scratched off? lol