I’m a newbie on Diesel trucks, I have the same exact engine and I’m doing head gaskets on it, and I just did everything you did on cleaning the block, but I just happen to look for some others ways and I saw yours, so I kind of took it like Im on the right track!!!!! I’m just waiting for the sharpening stone which I literally ordered yesterday.
I use the pneumatic board sander with 80 grit and give it hell! The 80 grit gives you the proper porosity in the block for the gasket to grab. Paper towels, shop vac, and an air gun to remove the mess. Gives you a nice flat grippy surface. Most importantly have the heads milled… Even brand new ones should be check by a competent machine shop.
@@InTheShop no problem man we have to meet up sometime an snap some pics of the trucks an maybe collaborate on a UA-cam video! I started a UA-cam channel it’s 6.0_PaT but awesome job man
@@InTheShop hell yes!!!! I’m no pro at videoing lol myself or talking to a camera but I’ll get better an will have some better angels once I master the rest of it but you got to start somewhere lol.
Ford says you can use a brass wire wheel very gently. Which I’ve done with success. But usually I can get away with a carbide scraper, razor blade, and a sharpening stone if needed.
Sharpening stone for the win. Did the same on mine as well. I even used it for the step before, I wrapped the sandpaper tightly around it. Let the weight of the block clean it.
Here is an idea I had for the lifter "Soak". It seems to me that if one had one of those Food Saver vacuum machines and one of the canisters he could plop the lifters and oil into the canister, pull a vacuum on the thing and get the air out of the lifters fairly well. Any thoughts on this?
I’ve seen people prime lifters with vacuum exactly like that. It works great. Might be a little overkill but when building engines anything extra you do will only be a benefit.
I have when I haven’t needed to remove the crank but have been installing performance cams. You NEED to mark it before you remove the flange. The flex plate is doweled to the flange and is balanced but the flange is not doweled to the crank, allowing you to put it on any which way and throwing the engine out of balance… I usually just use a center punch and mark one side through the center of the flange and a corresponding one on the flange… I’ve had paint marker almost completely wash off in a washer and avoid using that anymore… flange is tight to the crank so there’s no worries of runout destroying seals.
@@ryanpatrick5265 I would add, when you reinstall, put a dial indicator on it to check for run out. I would bet you need to hold it to no more than a tenth or two (
@@danaschoen432 they don’t. I’ve looked several times… most of the service info says if you remove the flange scrape the crank… it’s pressed on, a pullers required to remove it. The first few I’ve done I use to check run out. But stopped after doing a handful of them.. they were always where they needed to be. 👍👌
I love to see your vedios ! I have e450 ford with 6.0 powerstoke i wanna rebuild that engine I already took it out please let me know if you can do it for me and share me ur info so i can contact you
I’m a newbie on Diesel trucks, I have the same exact engine and I’m doing head gaskets on it, and I just did everything you did on cleaning the block, but I just happen to look for some others ways and I saw yours, so I kind of took it like Im on the right track!!!!! I’m just waiting for the sharpening stone which I literally ordered yesterday.
Glad you got this head gasket on a Powerstroke 6.0 cleaned up looks nice bro.
Thanks Luis!!!
I use the pneumatic board sander with 80 grit and give it hell! The 80 grit gives you the proper porosity in the block for the gasket to grab. Paper towels, shop vac, and an air gun to remove the mess. Gives you a nice flat grippy surface. Most importantly have the heads milled… Even brand new ones should be check by a competent machine shop.
I agree! The heads in using are aftermarket new castings with o-rings on this build.
@@InTheShop
Damn, that’s gonna be nice. I’ve been anxiously watching for some updates on it. It’s a lot of work!
Thanks man. It’s been a ton of work but getting close!
I'm going to use a hand wire brush and gasoline. By the time I'm going back together it's all evaporated. It's a fantastic crud solvent
Gas in a spray bottle...
Awesome video Nate I learned a lot from these three videos awesome job buddy.
Thanks a lot man. I appreciate that!
@@InTheShop no problem man we have to meet up sometime an snap some pics of the trucks an maybe collaborate on a UA-cam video! I started a UA-cam channel it’s 6.0_PaT but awesome job man
@@SUBI_PaT sweet! I just smashed the subscribe button.
@@InTheShop hell yes!!!! I’m no pro at videoing lol myself or talking to a camera but I’ll get better an will have some better angels once I master the rest of it but you got to start somewhere lol.
Great Vids Nate .Doin g same Job on my 05 Excursion cab in ....i can change my lifters withmotor in . I forget... Geting same heads !
You have to pull the transmission and rear engine cover to change the lifters.
Ford says you can use a brass wire wheel very gently. Which I’ve done with success. But usually I can get away with a carbide scraper, razor blade, and a sharpening stone if needed.
Sharpening stone for the win. Did the same on mine as well. I even used it for the step before, I wrapped the sandpaper tightly around it. Let the weight of the block clean it.
I’ve been doing it this way for a while and really like the way it comes out.
Here is an idea I had for the lifter "Soak". It seems to me that if one had one of those Food Saver vacuum machines and one of the canisters he could plop the lifters and oil into the canister, pull a vacuum on the thing and get the air out of the lifters fairly well. Any thoughts on this?
I’ve seen people prime lifters with vacuum exactly like that. It works great. Might be a little overkill but when building engines anything extra you do will only be a benefit.
have you ever taken the rear flange off. I need to replace the cam (lifter failure) & really don't want to take the bed plate and crank out
I have when I haven’t needed to remove the crank but have been installing performance cams. You NEED to mark it before you remove the flange. The flex plate is doweled to the flange and is balanced but the flange is not doweled to the crank, allowing you to put it on any which way and throwing the engine out of balance… I usually just use a center punch and mark one side through the center of the flange and a corresponding one on the flange… I’ve had paint marker almost completely wash off in a washer and avoid using that anymore… flange is tight to the crank so there’s no worries of runout destroying seals.
@@ryanpatrick5265 I would add, when you reinstall, put a dial indicator on it to check for run out. I would bet you need to hold it to no more than a tenth or two (
@@danaschoen432 they don’t. I’ve looked several times… most of the service info says if you remove the flange scrape the crank… it’s pressed on, a pullers required to remove it. The first few I’ve done I use to check run out. But stopped after doing a handful of them.. they were always where they needed to be. 👍👌
What grit sandpaper and stone do you recommend?
I use 120 grit on the paper and I use this stone amzn.to/3xhlGy8
I love to see your vedios ! I have e450 ford with 6.0 powerstoke i wanna rebuild that engine I already took it out please let me know if you can do it for me and share me ur info so i can contact you