Factory ford cam bearings are brass finish. I have a brand new set on my bench today brass color! Not to say yours are not worn, but without micrometers impossible to tell or if they are gouged and scared!
Your right. I was surprised when I saw the new bearings. The very last bearing was warn a little bit but I would say it was probably caused by deflection from turning the high pressure pump. You can see it at 10:47 in the video.
I wish I had your skillset. As DIY/technical as I am, I’d never tackle a rebuild like this. It’s cool that you’re going for precision. Even cooler you mentioned possibly selling down the road. Obviously not wanting to pass on a problem to someone else. Our 04 has been very reliable and still pulls our 13k fiver with ease. We’d like a new truck but we can drop a new engine in our 04 for not much more than it costs to replace just the fuel system in a 6.7. Dang.
I’ll tell you I didn’t succeed the first time. And I still make mistakes. It’s hard to justify these newer diesels when the older ones still make great power and are much more reasonable in price to repair.
I'm doing a engine rebuild now. and didn't realize the Tolerance on the Bore spec was soo tight. and well.. i think i'm just gonna send it. my cylinders have no taper, and are not out of round. but my bore is 0.003" worn. and it seems a bit redicoulus to me that the spec is 0.001" all the other diesel engines i've worked on the tolerance is 0.005"-0.008" and most of them have higher compression than a 6.0L i'm sure if i gap the rings at the upper end and go with 0.005" tolerance it will work just fine with new rings. the bearings on this engine looked new you couldn't tell they were in a running engine unless i told you. the engine came out of a F550 with a PTO and a crane so it had around 80,000 miles and 9000 hours. (likely in high idle.) Edit: just seems ludacris ford specs state its okay to have 3 times more out of round and bore taper than bore diamater tolerance
In video #1 you said that when the spool Is put in backwards you have a high pressure oil problem. Could you elaborate? Will you have a no start problem with that also?
When the spool valve is installed face it the wrong direction. Or the spool valve body is installed facing the wrong direction. The spool valve will not allow high pressure oil flow at the correct time. Which will most likely cause a no start or dead mis on that cylinder.
The crank bearings weren’t horrible. The very last cam bearing I removed had warn pretty good. The cam bearings are the same color as the crank and cam when new. Cam bearing 10:46 into the video
Fixing to tare down my wife 6.0 it has 212000 miles on it I was debating on just getting the heads done . But seeing the cam bearing and main bearing worn on the you checking just curious on how many miles that motor had and is that other motors as well. Thanks
I did not but I did install them. If I remember most of those have a shoulder that the freeze plug seats against. You may have to drill the center, run a screw in then use a slide hammer. When removing I usually just hit one side with a chisel.
@@showmerepair my 04 block had 2 that were that way. Pretty tough to get out. It’s kind of a mystery to me as to why when all the others don’t have the flange
I need some help... 1. If the cyl walls are good...can I just pop std rings in? 2. If crank looks good can I just throw in std rod and cradle bearings in?
Did you measure the cylinders and the crank? You need the measure to make sure they are standard size. But yes if the cylinders still have cross hatching I see no red in boring.
How many miles? Looking to pull my motor and gasket it. I (ave major oil leak gallon a week and now loosing coolant owned truck since new and has 305k was thinking about also doing rings but now idk maybe do whole motor over bearings seals and send heads and block to get cleaned up and machined at this point. Or getting lower mileage motor and using the full rebuild stage 2 kit I bought new turbo and injectors and all seals and updated stuff that goes with doing full over haul and bulletproof
I wish I knew how many miles were on this engine. I got it from a guy as a used replacement. He said it was a good running engine. I’ve seen engines with similar bearing wear with around 150000 miles. I’d imagine the bearing wear was caused by lack of oil changes. I’m going to have turbo rebuild video up soon. I found replacement parts for the vgt that you can not buy from ford or any where else that I know off.
I didn’t really need to have this block power honed. You could still see the cross hatch in the cylinders. I’d say if your engine is still running good and you can see cross hatching. Rering the pistons and roll on. Check you wrist pin bearings for play. That is normally over looked.
O-ringed heads, bearings, gaskets, machine work. Rist pin bushings. I’m setting at $3700. I look back and I shouldn’t have bought some stuff. I bought new main bolts that I didn’t need. Fords workshop manual does not say to replace. And I didn’t need to power hone. The power hone cost around $800. I’ll go over cost at the end of the engine build. So everyone has a good idea what it cost.
@@georgeaxtell5997 Did you ever go with a stage 2 kit? I have my 6.0 block stripped and the cylinders are kinda crap so figured I’d go up to stage 2 pistons and cam. Just waiting on the cash to start everything. Block is sitting in my garage till I save up some cash 😭
Hey boss. I desperately need those specs you got your note sizes and all the dimensions for crank journals etc. every time I try to find it on google search I get everything except what I need. I tried to screen shot your papers when they came up in the video but I can’t read all the dimensions. I have a2005 f250 6.0. Started out frustrated with it until I finally tore it all the way down, now I’m in love with my 6 0. Such a simple design and few flaws but nothing that can’t become pluses with the right tweaks. I’ve got all my parts and my micrometer and dual g bore gauge among other tools are coming in Monday but I only have part of the dimensions I need to order bearings. Can you share your source?
Other then buying a tool. maybe get a flat piece of metal that you can sand or grind down till it just fits in the cam journal. Then use a bar to hit the flat piece of metal to drive the old bearing out.
How much you cost you to have machine shop check it out. I wish I could find one that will put together just the bottom end for me with out costing thousands
Hey Chris do you have another way I can contact you? I'm in spokane wa, and I have a problem with my 6.0 that know one can figure out. I've heard it could be a flat cam!
I got to talk to Mahle at SEMA last year. I wouldn’t be afraid to use them. Ford pistons are good to use. I just use stock pistons. There are a lot of companies that sell ceramic coated pistons. I do not have experience with the ceramic coated pistons. I always use ford rings. I’m getting ready to build another. I’m using ford rings that have been modified by total seal rings to give the second ring additional sealing.
OEM is expensive. I can get new at my local Ford dealer. I can check prices there on Monday. If your interested shoot me an email. Are you wanting standard size, 10 over or 20 over?chrisbpowerstroke@gmail.com
@@showmerepair I'll like to keep it at standard size if I can. I'm disassembling the motor tomorrow to see what is going on with the bottom end. I have a 2004 late model in my truck and a 2006 that I just picked up. I was told it hydro locked, therefore thinking its probably and most likely a piston issue. hoping the crank and block is spared. see what you can come up with on Monday. thanks
If you have a bell housing bolt out. Take it with you to compare. Don’t want to see you buy all thread that isn’t right. Good luck. I hope to have new videos up soon
Identifix is what I use. They use info straight from Ford. try.identifix.com/direct-hit-1-form/?lead_source=adwords&marketing_source=test-drive&ad_group=branded&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_Nux6rKB7gIVyrzACh1mLQbdEAAYASAAEgKxf_D_BwE I think you can buy info for one vehicle.
I don’t have packages set up. I usually like to get the block and heads to the machine shop to have things checked before putting a quote together. There are a lot of great engine rebuilders that offer great packages. They probably have an engine ready to ship out. J&K engines, Choate engineering, Kill devil diesel, Dynamic diesel performance are some top options I can think off. I can try to help answer any questions you may have. Keep in Touch ID like to hear how it’s goes with any company. That way I can share how it went and give people good info on companies to use.
@@showmerepair the calipers are not as accurate as they say especially cheap ones. you should be using an outside micrometer. a $200 mitutoyo 6" caliper says it is accurate +\- 001 with half thou resolution. The pistburg says the same...for $20? not worth trusting China on that amigo
I like your video, but your measuring technique is problematic. You are trying for a resolution of .0001 and you are setting up your bore gage with a set of calipers that have a resolution of 1 half of a thousandth. That bore gage needs to be checked against a 4 decimal place micrometer that has been verified with a standard. Otherwise just stick the calipers in there and take that as your measurement.
@@showmerepair Thanks for that feed back. I was not trying to offend and don't seem like you were. I'm glad I didn't. Too many "Tubers" get their feelings hurt when they are approached with a comment about a technical inaccuracy. On the other side of that coin, that too can be understood given the kinds of criticism that is lobbed at them. (Anyone who attempts this sort of thing in the public square is a special kind of brave. So hats off to you for that). All that said, it looks like this very same project is in my near future so I'll be watching this whole series as well as several others. Thanks for the work you did on this.
I agree and appreciate your criticism. I should always strive to be better. I appreciate you watching the series. Feel free to email me if you have any questions.
Thanks for sharing that link for the cam bearing tool. Just ordered it for my build.
Thank you so much for your quick response.
Agreed I have never seen a cam Bearing worn that bad. Vary interested to hear what the Machinist fines on the mains as well.
This video is truly detailed 👍
Thank you
I may hafta do this. Can't justify spending so much money to get a new truck!
Great video thank you sir
Your welcome. Thanks for watching
Factory ford cam bearings are brass finish. I have a brand new set on my bench today brass color! Not to say yours are not worn, but without micrometers impossible to tell or if they are gouged and scared!
Your right. I was surprised when I saw the new bearings. The very last bearing was warn a little bit but I would say it was probably caused by deflection from turning the high pressure pump. You can see it at 10:47 in the video.
I wish I had your skillset. As DIY/technical as I am, I’d never tackle a rebuild like this. It’s cool that you’re going for precision. Even cooler you mentioned possibly selling down the road. Obviously not wanting to pass on a problem to someone else. Our 04 has been very reliable and still pulls our 13k fiver with ease. We’d like a new truck but we can drop a new engine in our 04 for not much more than it costs to replace just the fuel system in a 6.7. Dang.
I’ll tell you I didn’t succeed the first time. And I still make mistakes.
It’s hard to justify these newer diesels when the older ones still make great power and are much more reasonable in price to repair.
@@showmerepair what happened the first time?
@@jacobgomez2682 the first time I rebuilt an injector I hydro locked the engine.
@@showmerepair see I've wanted to rebuild my own 6.0 injectors they are simple enough but my luck I'll do the same, and I need an injector actually!🙄
@@jacobgomez2682 have you watched my injector videos? I go over the things that could cause that issue.
I'm doing a engine rebuild now. and didn't realize the Tolerance on the Bore spec was soo tight. and well.. i think i'm just gonna send it. my cylinders have no taper, and are not out of round. but my bore is 0.003" worn. and it seems a bit redicoulus to me that the spec is 0.001" all the other diesel engines i've worked on the tolerance is 0.005"-0.008" and most of them have higher compression than a 6.0L i'm sure if i gap the rings at the upper end and go with 0.005" tolerance it will work just fine with new rings. the bearings on this engine looked new you couldn't tell they were in a running engine unless i told you. the engine came out of a F550 with a PTO and a crane so it had around 80,000 miles and 9000 hours. (likely in high idle.)
Edit: just seems ludacris ford specs state its okay to have 3 times more out of round and bore taper than bore diamater tolerance
In video #1 you said that when the spool
Is put in backwards you have a high pressure oil problem. Could you elaborate?
Will you have a no start problem with that also?
When the spool valve is installed face it the wrong direction. Or the spool valve body is installed facing the wrong direction. The spool valve will not allow high pressure oil flow at the correct time. Which will most likely cause a no start or dead mis on that cylinder.
Those bearings don't look bad at all. But great series.
The last cam bearing I pulled out was pretty warn.
@@showmerepair it's a shame how much the camera just doesn't pick up sometimes.
The crank bearings weren’t horrible. The very last cam bearing I removed had warn pretty good. The cam bearings are the same color as the crank and cam when new. Cam bearing 10:46 into the video
Agree bearing wear was not bad. Just the top soft layer lead or zinc got rubbed off.
Whats the solution to the crank bore being out of spec , thicker bearings ?
Yes. They would line bore the crank journals then use a thicker besring
Just curious how your build turned out. Did those mains turn out to be fine? You did have them torqued before measuring I’m sure.
Turned out great. Ended up selling it to a friend. I’m getting parts together to build another.
Fixing to tare down my wife 6.0 it has 212000 miles on it
I was debating on just getting the heads done .
But seeing the cam bearing and main bearing worn on the you checking just curious on how many miles that motor had and is that other motors as well. Thanks
Did you pull your own freeze plugs? I’m having a time with mine
I did not but I did install them. If I remember most of those have a shoulder that the freeze plug seats against. You may have to drill the center, run a screw in then use a slide hammer. When removing I usually just hit one side with a chisel.
@@showmerepair my 04 block had 2 that were that way. Pretty tough to get out. It’s kind of a mystery to me as to why when all the others don’t have the flange
I need some help...
1. If the cyl walls are good...can I just pop std rings in?
2. If crank looks good can I just throw in std rod and cradle bearings in?
Did you measure the cylinders and the crank? You need the measure to make sure they are standard size. But yes if the cylinders still have cross hatching I see no red in boring.
How many miles? Looking to pull my motor and gasket it. I (ave major oil leak gallon a week and now loosing coolant owned truck since new and has 305k was thinking about also doing rings but now idk maybe do whole motor over bearings seals and send heads and block to get cleaned up and machined at this point. Or getting lower mileage motor and using the full rebuild stage 2 kit I bought new turbo and injectors and all seals and updated stuff that goes with doing full over haul and bulletproof
I wish I knew how many miles were on this engine. I got it from a guy as a used replacement. He said it was a good running engine. I’ve seen engines with similar bearing wear with around 150000 miles. I’d imagine the bearing wear was caused by lack of oil changes. I’m going to have turbo rebuild video up soon. I found replacement parts for the vgt that you can not buy from ford or any where else that I know off.
I didn’t really need to have this block power honed. You could still see the cross hatch in the cylinders. I’d say if your engine is still running good and you can see cross hatching. Rering the pistons and roll on. Check you wrist pin bearings for play. That is normally over looked.
How much to uhave into it with parts and machine shop? Did u bulletproof has well? What did u do for new stuff? Injectors egr cooler and such
O-ringed heads, bearings, gaskets, machine work. Rist pin bushings. I’m setting at $3700. I look back and I shouldn’t have bought some stuff. I bought new main bolts that I didn’t need. Fords workshop manual does not say to replace. And I didn’t need to power hone. The power hone cost around $800. I’ll go over cost at the end of the engine build. So everyone has a good idea what it cost.
@@georgeaxtell5997 Did you ever go with a stage 2 kit? I have my 6.0 block stripped and the cylinders are kinda crap so figured I’d go up to stage 2 pistons and cam.
Just waiting on the cash to start everything. Block is sitting in my garage till I save up some cash 😭
Hey boss. I desperately need those specs you got your note sizes and all the dimensions for crank journals etc. every time I try to find it on google search I get everything except what I need. I tried to screen shot your papers when they came up in the video but I can’t read all the dimensions. I have a2005 f250 6.0. Started out frustrated with it until I finally tore it all the way down, now I’m in love with my 6 0. Such a simple design and few flaws but nothing that can’t become pluses with the right tweaks. I’ve got all my parts and my micrometer and dual g bore gauge among other tools are coming in Monday but I only have part of the dimensions I need to order bearings. Can you share your source?
Email me. Then I can share it with you
Can i also ask for the same spec sheet please? I don’t see your email on your UA-cam page.
Any other methods to removing cam bearing without the sweet tool?
Other then buying a tool. maybe get a flat piece of metal that you can sand or grind down till it just fits in the cam journal. Then use a bar to hit the flat piece of metal to drive the old bearing out.
Are you trying to avoid going to a machine shop?
How much you cost you to have machine shop check it out. I wish I could find one that will put together just the bottom end for me with out costing thousands
I can’t remember exactly. I’m thinking it was around $400.
That was cleaning the block checking clearances.
Hey Chris do you have another way I can contact you? I'm in spokane wa, and I have a problem with my 6.0 that know one can figure out. I've heard it could be a flat cam!
Chrisbpowerstroke@gmail.com
@Nikk Anderson chrisbpowerstroke@gmail.com
Instagram
@chrisbryant_jcbryant
hi, I'm following your series on the 6.0 rebuild. what brand pistons and rings do you reccomend? thanks
I got to talk to Mahle at SEMA last year. I wouldn’t be afraid to use them. Ford pistons are good to use. I just use stock pistons. There are a lot of companies that sell ceramic coated pistons.
I do not have experience with the ceramic coated pistons.
I always use ford rings.
I’m getting ready to build another. I’m using ford rings that have been modified by total seal rings to give the second ring additional sealing.
@@showmerepair oem pistons hard to find and expensive.
OEM is expensive. I can get new at my local Ford dealer. I can check prices there on Monday. If your interested shoot me an email. Are you wanting standard size, 10 over or 20 over?chrisbpowerstroke@gmail.com
I’m definitely always looking for ways to save money but cheap is not good for pistons.
@@showmerepair I'll like to keep it at standard size if I can. I'm disassembling the motor tomorrow to see what is going on with the bottom end. I have a 2004 late model in my truck and a 2006 that I just picked up. I was told it hydro locked, therefore thinking its probably and most likely a piston issue. hoping the crank and block is spared. see what you can come up with on Monday. thanks
What size bolts and what hardware did you use to connect the block to the stand?
I used all thread then cut it down. It is the same thread pattern the transmission bell housing bolts. I found on a site. The thread pitch is M12x1.75
@@showmerepair thx brother
If you have a bell housing bolt out. Take it with you to compare. Don’t want to see you buy all thread that isn’t right. Good luck. I hope to have new videos up soon
Time Stamp 11:21 Spec says .0001 spread between min and max bore dia. Then it says .003in taper. What are they saying?
Let me look it up and get back to you
Where did you get the engine specs papers . Thanks for the video
Identifix is what I use. They use info straight from Ford. try.identifix.com/direct-hit-1-form/?lead_source=adwords&marketing_source=test-drive&ad_group=branded&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_Nux6rKB7gIVyrzACh1mLQbdEAAYASAAEgKxf_D_BwE
I think you can buy info for one vehicle.
What kind of engine stand is that?
Harbor freight
You have to measure vertical on crank bearings thats why you are out of spec
Thanks for the tip.
THOSE BEARINGS ARE TYPICAL OF A 6.0 WITH SOME MILES ON IT. NEW BEARINGS AND RUN IT YOU WOULD BE FINE.
I’m guessing you’ve rebuilt a lot of 6.0?
What’s the cost to rebuild that engine?
Let me get back to you
How much would you charge to rebuild an engine
I don’t have packages set up. I usually like to get the block and heads to the machine shop to have things checked before putting a quote together.
There are a lot of great engine rebuilders that offer great packages. They probably have an engine ready to ship out. J&K engines, Choate engineering, Kill devil diesel, Dynamic diesel performance are some top options I can think off. I can try to help answer any questions you may have. Keep in Touch ID like to hear how it’s goes with any company. That way I can share how it went and give people good info on companies to use.
WARNING do not use calipers for this they are not remotely accurate enough you should be using a micrometer.
What are you talking about?
@@showmerepair the calipers are not as accurate as they say especially cheap ones. you should be using an outside micrometer. a $200 mitutoyo 6" caliper says it is accurate
+\- 001 with half thou resolution. The pistburg says the same...for $20?
not worth trusting China on that amigo
@@over9000pontiacs oh for measuring the crank. Yea I need to pick up a good set of micrometers.
I like your video, but your measuring technique is problematic. You are trying for a resolution of .0001 and you are setting up your bore gage with a set of calipers that have a resolution of 1 half of a thousandth. That bore gage needs to be checked against a 4 decimal place micrometer that has been verified with a standard. Otherwise just stick the calipers in there and take that as your measurement.
Your right. Thankfully I’m not doing the machine work myself. I’ll make sure I get a nice micrometer set before doing this again. Thank you
@@showmerepair Thanks for that feed back. I was not trying to offend and don't seem like you were. I'm glad I didn't. Too many "Tubers" get their feelings hurt when they are approached with a comment about a technical inaccuracy. On the other side of that coin, that too can be understood given the kinds of criticism that is lobbed at them. (Anyone who attempts this sort of thing in the public square is a special kind of brave. So hats off to you for that). All that said, it looks like this very same project is in my near future so I'll be watching this whole series as well as several others. Thanks for the work you did on this.
I agree and appreciate your criticism. I should always strive to be better.
I appreciate you watching the series. Feel free to email me if you have any questions.
Damn everything was going good until I saw the Pittsburgh caliper 🥲
lmao thank you