I like the video very much! It reminds me of whenever I try to decide to do something myself and all of these unforeseen obstacles pop up. I actually broke a breaker bar half inch on the front so I’m not even gonna try this. Thanks for your sacrifice.
Sir, I just want to congratulate you on an excellent job and thank you for the video. Perhaps it's a bit too much for me to tackle on my 2005 Subaru Forester!
Looks like that inner suspension bolt has a concentric adjuster. In other words that bolt attachment allows for camber adjustment. You will need to take your car in to a shop that does alignment to have the rear camber set since you took off that inner bolt. The outer bolt is the one to remove, not the inner bolt due to the camber adjuster on the inside bolt.
Phil Brown it went really good once I got the right tools. Thankfully the manager at O’Reilly’s took the fornicated bearing back under warranty. I even told him that I screwed it up. I was able to take the long bottom bolts out and didn’t have to detach the two arms way up under it. Your video was a huge help. Thank you for taking the time to upload it!! My Forester is quiet as a mouse now!
Thank you, sir! That was extremely edu-ma-cational and it was nice to see this job attempted by someone else who hadn't done before either!👍🙂 I'm 98.3% certain that one of the rear wheel bearings is letting go on my 99 Foz and I may very well buy more tools and attempt it myself if the shop estimate is higher than the cost of the needed tools after watching this.👍 It looks much harder than it needed to be (as expected) but I wanted some of those tools anyway and I don't like the idea of anyone else messing with my Subaru. Lol
Once you do it you'll be confident to do it again and you can charge one of your friends good money and stilll save them some cash from going to the shop.
Also to know if it's your wheel bearing (usually it's the rear passenger one) you have to put load on it. Try turning to the right with all the fans and music off and see if the hum gets louder. If it does then it is more than likely your bearing.
and don’t forget to put your old tone ring on the new hun first. like me, i didn’t. and had to slide hammer it back off again. i did this in my drive way sitting on a damn bucket on a 90 degree day. never. never again
Good effort and tenacity, screw the inevitable haters at the end of the comments, too. Just pinging in or staking the hub to the axle or whatever, is the only main critique I have, in a friendly nice tone. I only know from other videos I have watched. Also, using pb blaster on the big long 14 mm nut you couldn't get out by itself, seems to fix the issue, instead of WD40. And then lastly, I guess you made it work, but I came here looking for which press kit to use, I have both on my Amazon wishlist, but I feel like the rear kit would have been better hear since it was a rear wheel bearing, but maybe it doesn't matter. The rear kit is like $30 and the front $76 or something. Just my 2 cents. I am going to attempt the job myself in about a month, just researching a lot beforehand. Oh and I am also going to use a seal puller for the seals, and yes, use lots of grease. Good game and keep at it bro, positive energy to you!!
ive done two of these. they are absolute hell. I work on Ford diesels and they are a cake walk compared to this. I did however heat the metal bracket ends before the rubber bushings. after two hours of beating with a sledge hammer, i added the heat and it started to move. i eventually got it. what a miserable car to work on and a miserable car period. i cant stand my forester. the rubber smoked a tad bit but i didn’t lose the bushings . it was well worth it
Agree on all counts. I think this is the last winter for my forester. I'd have ditched it already but I am waiting on parts for the replacement vehicle. Everything on this car seems to require removing something hard to get out. Of course an Audi or BMW make it look like cake so don't buy those either if you intend on wrenching on them yourself.
I actually tried a few other things on that bolt that didn't make the cut--including a bar for the wrench. Problem is there's not enough room under the car for much length in a bar. If I had it up on a lift, that would have worked great!
ya don’t have to burn the bushings out at all. just heat the metal bracket and give it hell squirting on blaster in it while you crank on it with a breaker bar
I changed the bearing and axle. The loud growling is gone but there's still a slight whoomp whoomp noise. That I think could be the backing play for the drums. But the sound gets louder when I turn. Its weird I don't know what's going on
Hey good intencions to show people to do it? But you should tell people what type of tools you using and zize of spindle socket! I did came around your video looking for what zize of socke to use on my, but l couldn’t.
How did ya fix the issue of the hub pushing out the rear seal? Did you end up with inner race issues from pressing on it? Seems like ya need a seat that holds both outter and inner bearing. Yet the clearance there needs a tapered seat. Thanks for the video! Just trying to remedy running into the loose hub install.
It's been quite a while since I did that job. I do remember making the mistake pushing the bearing in, but I'm still driving it and it hasn't been a problem so I guess it was okay. I think the key is to make sure your press is set up to be pushing on the right part of the bearing (the outer race when pushing it in.)
well ...I was thinking of doing this on my recently obtained 2004 forester but uh ....no ...videos such as these help me decide to let someone else deal with it 🤣
Hey man, i’ve been using your video to do this job on my 2000 forester and your video has helped a ton. I got the hub out and got the outer arm down (the one that doesn’t have the weird cover over the nut/the same one you were able to get loose) but i cant seem to move the drum/ wheel assembly enough to get the axle out. I’ve tried getting the infamous long bolt out but i was only able to get the nut off of it. Was there anything else you did to get the long bolt out of the knuckle or did you just pull it out with the strut/outer arm attatched to the bolt? Anything helps thanks!
Oh boy, it's been a while. I definitely did not get the long bolt out. I was able to get the hub to move enough to remove the axle with the one arm disconnected from under the middle of the car, and the other disconnected at the knuckle... I think.
@@philbrown5722 And 1 more question (sry). At 39:52 you put the bolt back in to the knuckle; to get it out did you just hammer it out from the other side when your camera died?
Yeah, still running that bearing and it seems fine. I think you're talking about the long bolt? I never got it all the way out. It remained trapped in the rear bushing. However, it came out of the front one, and that's all I needed. Basically, you've got two lower control arms coming down that have to be disconnected either at the body or the knuckle (where the long bolt is.) I got the rear one disconnected at the body (failed at the long bolt), and the front one disconnected from the end of the long bolt (I wasn't able to get that front body bolt).
Yeah, I ordered the "Orion Motor Tech 23-Piece FWD Front Wheel Drive Bearing Adapters Press Kit Puller Set Replacement Installer Removal Automotive Mechanics Tool Kit" from Amazon.
I never saw you stake the axle nut! You need to take a chisel(not a screwdriver) and peen the locking ring f the axle nut into the groove of the axle. Otherwise, you’re going to be doing this job again, except you’ll also be replacing the CV axle assembly too. The splines in the hub and on the axle will get ground down once the nut gets loose…
👏 👏. Great video. Makes me want to hate life right about now. I will say you put some effort into this 😂. Best video ever and way to use the foot and leg 🦵 breaker bar method. 🎉I do it so often. Love this.
Gotta say there is something to be said for your ingenuity and tenacity but I tuned in to see how the axle was taken out for access to the bearing. How did big bolt come out and did you really need to buy chinese hub or could you use the old one? Good to see go getters on you tube thanks!
You talking about the big hub bolt? It comes off pretty easy, un-peen it and then counter-hold the hub with a bar of some sort. In my video I take it off around 4:30. I *think* you could re-use the old hub. The parts kit I ordered came with bearings and hubs. The only issue is that you would have to get the inner race off the old hub somehow, which might be difficult. My process basically destroys the old bearing during removal. It leaves the inner race on the hub, which then gets discarded.
@@pauliebots Oh yeah, that. I didn't get it out. I tried the option of removing the support bolts near the rear diff, but only got one of those. With the one I did get, I was able to get the whole thing out of the way.
@@philbrown5722 ok I'm gonna do this job soon. Watched half a dozen vids think I'm ready. I'm getting too old for this shit. BUT, I am not paying 500 bucks to some mook. Thanks for the video and getting back to me!
Faster to buy whole assembly , pack extra grease behind the seal , they have very little grease from manufacturer , , I check mine by jacking up rear , both tires off the ground and spin by hand , u will hear and feel which one is getting rough , I just replaced right rear and 22000 later needs a new one, did not pack extra grease in the first one, be prepared to replace often , just like the head gasket , replace drive and replace , after 1996 subaru went down hill , they are junk .
If you live in an area where they salt the roads or you are parking near salt water then you have a whole different can of worms. Removing the long bolt is *the* problem. Everything else is just a special tool problem for the home mechanic. Any way around it you do not need to remove the cam bolt at the top of the link; just the long bolt.. For a video on removing said bolt (plus the rest of the repair) see ua-cam.com/video/w7rYxh0XWuA/v-deo.html. It takes the guy around 20mins to remove that bolt with heavy impact hammer use and he is calling that one relatively easy.
bro, ive done that bolt before and let me tell you now, the one he did wasnt that bad. mine i had to completely remove the knuckles, grind the centre and the ends of the bolt off basically cutting it off the car. and then using a 12 ton press and a blowtorch, i was able to finally press out the 2 bits of bolt left in the hub. it took me all day to do just one. tried everything else first. Its really luck of the draw tbh. i greased the hell out of mine before putting them back in, so fingeres crossed, because ive gotta do the bearings again. (moog bearings are crap btw)
@@philbrown5722 I brought the car to a subaru independent shop today and they worked on it to tell me the bolt on trailing arm is seized and can not be removed. I asked them to remove the lateral link bolt just like you did and they said they tried but seized as well. I had to drive back and now sprayed some penetrating oil around the bot to hopefully free it up. I am gonna spray multiple times and give it a try in a month. Thank you for the reply!
Why would you swap out a CAR part with a CHINESE part?! this is why I do it myself! I don't buy anything chinese especially on a car! WTF! You better reimburse your customer
Thanks. Best Subaru rear wheel replacement vid on UA-cam. Cheers.
Thank you sir! One couldn’t ask for a better video than this. A real life, learn as you work application. I also appreciate your diligence. 👍
Thanks bro. Was happy to see someone actually do the job and not a bunch of already loose bolts.
This is most helpful, I got a 2001 and about to do it. Waiting on parts and a few specialty tools
I like the video very much! It reminds me of whenever I try to decide to do something myself and all of these unforeseen obstacles pop up. I actually broke a breaker bar half inch on the front so I’m not even gonna try this. Thanks for your sacrifice.
This car is pristine. Try this job up north in the Salt and rust belt.
Sir, I just want to congratulate you on an excellent job and thank you for the video. Perhaps it's a bit too much for me to tackle on my 2005 Subaru Forester!
Looks like that inner suspension bolt has a concentric adjuster. In other words that bolt attachment allows for camber adjustment. You will need to take your car in to a shop that does alignment to have the rear camber set since you took off that inner bolt. The outer bolt is the one to remove, not the inner bolt due to the camber adjuster on the inside bolt.
Doing same job right now. Thanks for the great video!
Oh yeah, good luck. Let me know how it turns out!
Phil Brown it went really good once I got the right tools. Thankfully the manager at O’Reilly’s took the fornicated bearing back under warranty. I even told him that I screwed it up. I was able to take the long bottom bolts out and didn’t have to detach the two arms way up under it. Your video was a huge help. Thank you for taking the time to upload it!! My Forester is quiet as a mouse now!
Great! Glad I could help someone else. I think you are one of the lucky few who have been able to get that long bolt out. Nice job.
Thank you, sir! That was extremely edu-ma-cational and it was nice to see this job attempted by someone else who hadn't done before either!👍🙂
I'm 98.3% certain that one of the rear wheel bearings is letting go on my 99 Foz and I may very well buy more tools and attempt it myself if the shop estimate is higher than the cost of the needed tools after watching this.👍 It looks much harder than it needed to be (as expected) but I wanted some of those tools anyway and I don't like the idea of anyone else messing with my Subaru. Lol
Once you do it you'll be confident to do it again and you can charge one of your friends good money and stilll save them some cash from going to the shop.
Also to know if it's your wheel bearing (usually it's the rear passenger one) you have to put load on it. Try turning to the right with all the fans and music off and see if the hum gets louder. If it does then it is more than likely your bearing.
Thank you !! I will do same jobs 😏 but you video help me so much!!
I am about to do the the same job! Your video helped out, thanks!
Awesome. Good luck. Be sure to get those seals in the right orientation. That messed me up the first time around.
and don’t forget to put your old tone ring on the new hun first. like me, i didn’t. and had to slide hammer it back off again. i did this in my drive way sitting on a damn bucket on a 90 degree day. never. never again
good job man💪⚡️
Good improvisation.
Good effort and tenacity, screw the inevitable haters at the end of the comments, too. Just pinging in or staking the hub to the axle or whatever, is the only main critique I have, in a friendly nice tone. I only know from other videos I have watched. Also, using pb blaster on the big long 14 mm nut you couldn't get out by itself, seems to fix the issue, instead of WD40. And then lastly, I guess you made it work, but I came here looking for which press kit to use, I have both on my Amazon wishlist, but I feel like the rear kit would have been better hear since it was a rear wheel bearing, but maybe it doesn't matter. The rear kit is like $30 and the front $76 or something. Just my 2 cents. I am going to attempt the job myself in about a month, just researching a lot beforehand. Oh and I am also going to use a seal puller for the seals, and yes, use lots of grease. Good game and keep at it bro, positive energy to you!!
Wife: where the hell is my nail polish... Phil.... are you fixing your Forester again????
Haha
ive done two of these. they are absolute hell. I work on Ford diesels and they are a cake walk compared to this. I did however heat the metal bracket ends before the rubber bushings. after two hours of beating with a sledge hammer, i added the heat and it started to move. i eventually got it. what a miserable car to work on and a miserable car period. i cant stand my forester. the rubber smoked a tad bit but i didn’t lose the bushings . it was well worth it
Agree on all counts. I think this is the last winter for my forester. I'd have ditched it already but I am waiting on parts for the replacement vehicle. Everything on this car seems to require removing something hard to get out. Of course an Audi or BMW make it look like cake so don't buy those either if you intend on wrenching on them yourself.
To get the stubborn bolt you have to pry and use an air ratchet or impact at the same time. It's a pain in the butt to do by yourself.
Gracias saludos
The chicken at the end!
Instead of struggling buy a bar that can slide over ring spanner’s and socket wrenches to give you more leverage saves so much time and effort
I actually tried a few other things on that bolt that didn't make the cut--including a bar for the wrench. Problem is there's not enough room under the car for much length in a bar. If I had it up on a lift, that would have worked great!
Good job I got to do it I don't know if I can
BEST WAY TO GET THE BOLT OUT IS TO GET A TOURCH AND BURN THE BUSHINGS OUT, REPLACE WITH NEW RUBBER BUSHINGS, ,WORKS THE BEST
ya don’t have to burn the bushings out at all. just heat the metal bracket and give it hell squirting on blaster in it while you crank on it with a breaker bar
I changed the bearing and axle. The loud growling is gone but there's still a slight whoomp whoomp noise. That I think could be the backing play for the drums. But the sound gets louder when I turn. Its weird I don't know what's going on
Thank you!
do u have the parts number bearing and 3 piece seal?
Thank you for this video, I see it's not an easy job and it needs some extractors. I am surprised how rustfree is your car?!? Thanks again
what happened to the washer at the end when bolt put back in arm?
Hey good intencions to show people to do it? But you should tell people what type of tools you using and zize of spindle socket! I did came around your video looking for what zize of socke to use on my, but l couldn’t.
How did ya fix the issue of the hub pushing out the rear seal? Did you end up with inner race issues from pressing on it? Seems like ya need a seat that holds both outter and inner bearing. Yet the clearance there needs a tapered seat. Thanks for the video! Just trying to remedy running into the loose hub install.
It's been quite a while since I did that job. I do remember making the mistake pushing the bearing in, but I'm still driving it and it hasn't been a problem so I guess it was okay. I think the key is to make sure your press is set up to be pushing on the right part of the bearing (the outer race when pushing it in.)
well ...I was thinking of doing this on my recently obtained 2004 forester but uh ....no ...videos such as these help me decide to let someone else deal with it 🤣
I was thinking exactly the same!! 😃
Hey man, i’ve been using your video to do this job on my 2000 forester and your video has helped a ton. I got the hub out and got the outer arm down (the one that doesn’t have the weird cover over the nut/the same one you were able to get loose) but i cant seem to move the drum/ wheel assembly enough to get the axle out. I’ve tried getting the infamous long bolt out but i was only able to get the nut off of it. Was there anything else you did to get the long bolt out of the knuckle or did you just pull it out with the strut/outer arm attatched to the bolt? Anything helps thanks!
Oh boy, it's been a while. I definitely did not get the long bolt out. I was able to get the hub to move enough to remove the axle with the one arm disconnected from under the middle of the car, and the other disconnected at the knuckle... I think.
@@philbrown5722 Ok thx. I think also bought the same bearings and hubs that you did. Have you had any bearing issues since installing them?
@@philbrown5722 And 1 more question (sry). At 39:52 you put the bolt back in to the knuckle; to get it out did you just hammer it out from the other side when your camera died?
Yeah, still running that bearing and it seems fine.
I think you're talking about the long bolt? I never got it all the way out. It remained trapped in the rear bushing. However, it came out of the front one, and that's all I needed. Basically, you've got two lower control arms coming down that have to be disconnected either at the body or the knuckle (where the long bolt is.) I got the rear one disconnected at the body (failed at the long bolt), and the front one disconnected from the end of the long bolt (I wasn't able to get that front body bolt).
Hey is that the front wheel drive bearing press from Amazon? I can't figure out witch one I need?
Yeah, I ordered the "Orion Motor Tech 23-Piece FWD Front Wheel Drive Bearing Adapters Press Kit Puller Set Replacement Installer Removal Automotive Mechanics Tool Kit" from Amazon.
I never saw you stake the axle nut! You need to take a chisel(not a screwdriver) and peen the locking ring f the axle nut into the groove of the axle. Otherwise, you’re going to be doing this job again, except you’ll also be replacing the CV axle assembly too. The splines in the hub and on the axle will get ground down once the nut gets loose…
👏 👏. Great video. Makes me want to hate life right about now. I will say you put some effort into this 😂. Best video ever and way to use the foot and leg 🦵 breaker bar method. 🎉I do it so often. Love this.
Gotta say there is something to be said for your ingenuity and tenacity but I tuned in to see how the axle was taken out for access to the bearing. How did big bolt come out and did you really need to buy chinese hub or could you use the old one? Good to see go getters on you tube thanks!
You talking about the big hub bolt? It comes off pretty easy, un-peen it and then counter-hold the hub with a bar of some sort. In my video I take it off around 4:30. I *think* you could re-use the old hub. The parts kit I ordered came with bearings and hubs. The only issue is that you would have to get the inner race off the old hub somehow, which might be difficult. My process basically destroys the old bearing during removal. It leaves the inner race on the hub, which then gets discarded.
@@philbrown5722 video. Thanks I was referring to the long bolt everyone bitches about removing. 13 or 14 inch 5/8 or so.
@@pauliebots Oh yeah, that. I didn't get it out. I tried the option of removing the support bolts near the rear diff, but only got one of those. With the one I did get, I was able to get the whole thing out of the way.
@@philbrown5722 ok I'm gonna do this job soon. Watched half a dozen vids think I'm ready. I'm getting too old for this shit. BUT, I am not paying 500 bucks to some mook. Thanks for the video and getting back to me!
@@pauliebots Good luck!
Sma baby!
Faster to buy whole assembly , pack extra grease behind the seal , they have very little grease from manufacturer , , I check mine by jacking up rear , both tires off the ground and spin by hand , u will hear and feel which one is getting rough , I just replaced right rear and 22000 later needs a new one, did not pack extra grease in the first one, be prepared to replace often , just like the head gasket , replace drive and replace , after 1996 subaru went down hill , they are junk .
If you live in an area where they salt the roads or you are parking near salt water then you have a whole different can of worms. Removing the long bolt is *the* problem. Everything else is just a special tool problem for the home mechanic. Any way around it you do not need to remove the cam bolt at the top of the link; just the long bolt.. For a video on removing said bolt (plus the rest of the repair) see ua-cam.com/video/w7rYxh0XWuA/v-deo.html. It takes the guy around 20mins to remove that bolt with heavy impact hammer use and he is calling that one relatively easy.
bro, ive done that bolt before and let me tell you now, the one he did wasnt that bad. mine i had to completely remove the knuckles, grind the centre and the ends of the bolt off basically cutting it off the car. and then using a 12 ton press and a blowtorch, i was able to finally press out the 2 bits of bolt left in the hub. it took me all day to do just one. tried everything else first.
Its really luck of the draw tbh. i greased the hell out of mine before putting them back in, so fingeres crossed, because ive gotta do the bearings again. (moog bearings are crap btw)
Pro tip
Next time lift your car put your hand on the shock Spin the wheel, if you feel vibration in the shock,
The bearing is bad.
can you just reuse the old hub with the new bearing?
Yeah, the hub is reusable.
@@philbrown5722 I am replacing the bearing soon and hopefully can reuse the hub provided it is in good shape. Will see !
@@philbrown5722 what is the wrench size for the bolt and nuts at 42:49? Thanks very much
@@timexchen you know, it's been a while. I honestly don't remember. 18mm?
@@philbrown5722 I brought the car to a subaru independent shop today and they worked on it to tell me the bolt on trailing arm is seized and can not be removed. I asked them to remove the lateral link bolt just like you did and they said they tried but seized as well. I had to drive back and now sprayed some penetrating oil around the bot to hopefully free it up. I am gonna spray multiple times and give it a try in a month. Thank you for the reply!
U gave up way too easy I will of gotten that but out trust me
I gave up, but I didn't give up easy. I gave it the ol' college try, the "full beans", foul language, everything.
Why would you swap out a CAR part with a CHINESE part?! this is why I do it myself! I don't buy anything chinese especially on a car! WTF! You better reimburse your customer
DUDE !!!!
We dont need to watch you pull the car into the damn garage.
Yeah... I'm not a top tier UA-camr.
u have no clue what to do
Neither do you, that’s why your here. That that crap elsewhere.
boring
did you really click on a car repair video to be entertained? 🤔
@@redpillpusher LOL......good point.
@@robr9905 😜