Find all the parts for your VW or Audi! - www.shopdap.com/ - We appreciate your Support and Purchases! - Find your oil extractor here! - www.shopdap.com/werkzeug-usa-tool/vw-audi-oil-extractor.html
The lesson learned when using one of those oil extractors is to always make sure the adapter where the tubing switches to smaller diameter is secured firmly. Mine came off when I was pumping the oil out of the extractor into the oil jug and made a mess.
From a self certified DIY mechanic, this video is very funny, I have never taken my new 4 runner to the shop. After 80,000k of oil changes done by myself. Why would I. I love working on my cars. Great video😂. Keep them coming. After I took the car out of the dealer floor, within a 3 months I was already getting calls from them to do the first oil change and check up. I just ignored them completely, actually, I told them I can do that all myself to have a blessed day. They never call me again, just sent me silly emails there after. I have a membership to a car wash, everytime I pull up to the Toyota dealership to buy oil, they keep on commenting,” wow this car looks new.” I grinch every time I see the long line ups of cars waiting to get oil changes and services at the dealership.
I thank you very much for all your videos, they are very useful, I am from Saltillo, Coahuila, Mexico, and there is no one here who is as specific and professional as you, in VW TSI engines, your instructions are the most complete that there are in yt, Thank you again, I would like your videos to include subtitles in Spanish, we appreciate you very much, and we hope that your channel and your professionalism last forever, thank you
I have visited Saltillo many times (for business trips) and have always enjoyed my visits. For others who may visit, definitely see the Museo del Desierto. I would venture that maybe someone in Puebla may produce videos en Espanol specific to VW.
So I'm a volkswagen dealership technician and something that surprised me when I first joined the brand was that VW actually specifically write on service sheets "do not extract oil" so technically VW say that you shouldn't do this but like you say in the video its a known process in the VW and audi community, personally I think no matter how you drain the oil the most important thing is the oils getting replaced either way
I think it can suck gaskets n seals from within... if it's to strong.. IMO . How lazy can you be to need n extractor.. 5min to do oil changes. Been doing it since 1993.
@@hotshotfx3502 for sure not on the Mk 7 Golfs unless you're really rushing. You have to remove the belly pan to access the drain plug. The vacuum pumps don't have enough suction to damage seals, either; even if they did, if you leave the fill cap or filter housing open, there's no chance of pulling a vacuum in the crankcase at all.
@@hotshotfx3502 Its not about being lazy, its about ramp space, floor space, garage space. Lets say you park on the road, you can use one of these instead of jacking up each side of the car, putting stands under, and crawling under a confined space. If you have a proper garage and even a car lift, if you have a car up on the lift, you can do an oil change out in the parking lot. I live in a city I do all my oil changes, and car work on a street with people driving past me, I just cant bring myself to climb under the car unless I really need to. If you have a garage and you have ramps, and all that stuff, then using one of these is I agree lazy, as you wont even save much time.
I carefully used a pipe wrench on the plastic filter housing, worked fine. And I love this method of changing oil, I will never take off the oil plug ever again on this car.
I perform an additional step when using an oil extractor (bought mine from Griot's years ago); after removing the pipette from the dip stick tube, wipe it off and place it in the bottom of the filter housing to suck up the remaining oil there. You'll have to pump the handle once or twice while moving the tube around but it works quite well to remove whatever's left. Then install the new oil filter.
@@GymChess don't think you quite understand...after removing the oil filter, if you look down into the bottom of the filter housing, there is oil sitting there that doesn't make it to the pan. It's maybe a few ounces at most, but I like to remove it so it doesn't contaminate the new oil.
@@GymChess Well, there are quite a few people dead set against using an oil extractor cuz they don't think it gets all the dirty oil out! I'm just anal! 😂
@@jeandunow7794 I used an extractor myself in October when I did my most recent oil change. It works great. The only downside as I see it, is that you don't get to do s general check under the car like when you do a "normal" oil change. Other than that, sucking the oil up is perfectly fine.
In contrast, over my 30 years of Japanese car ownership, the owner's manuals have been models of clarity and brevity. Right to the point, and with an index too! That's my experience with Suzuki, Mazda, and Honda owner's manuals.
Agreed. I’ve owned Hondas since 2015 and their manuals pretty much tell you all you need to know for servicing the car, compared to a vw manual that just basically tells you to take it to the dealer.
I was surprised to see how much oil didn’t come out ofter extraction. You’ll still get the non-believers.. “you cut the video, you just edited it” blah blah blah. 😂
OMG I can’t believe you mentioned the oil change place emptying the transmission fluid and overfilling the engine oil. Happened to my son. Luckily he realized something was up and was very close to a reputable mechanic. No damage done.
I love vw's one manual to confound them all. Been trying to work out what oil to get for my Mum's 08 1.9 pd tdi for 3 months..... Thanks for the label tip
The amsoil site is actually a really good resource as well, even if you don’t buy their stuff it shows the capacity and oil type required for quite a lot of vehicles
@@Mr330d Many thanks for that tip. It sent me back to the manual and I think that its 507 that Mum's Bertha Bluebell needs and not a moment too soon. Her cataract surgery went well so now she can see the "service now" warning. LOL
I paid $50 for a HF version years ago. It's a game changer for me. No need to read the user manual just throw it away. This is one of my top 10 items you must buy from HF. I use this for everything from bleeding brake to power steering to oil change. I use this once ever 5K then full change every 10K so I can swap out the filter ... yeah yeah I have to jack it up to get access. I love this device man, can't speak enough value it bought when doing brake bleed by myself. I used to suffer from massive hand sore using hand pump, for a few extra bucks this thing just take entire stress out of the equation. I mean 0 stress and I'm loving it. As a matter of fact the pump is so powerful, you're going to need to work fast or your master cylinder will be empty and you'll end up with more air pockets.
@@Deutscheautoparts suitably qualified professional..Do it on the back of a shirt with the phrase I am a #suitablyqualifiedprofessional..I think that would be hilarious and would definitely buy one!!
Thank your for the video. Thanks to this video I bought an oil extractor as I am planning to change the oil every 10.OOO km (=6.200 miles) of my recently bought used VW Beetle cabrio 2016 1.2 tsi. I will have to baby that itty bitty engine. Greetings from Belgium.
I tried making my own oil extractor about 15 years ago. I converted a small Harbor Freight air compressor into a vacuum pump and used a 5 gallon bucket as the vessel. It worked pretty well on water and coolant with a 1/2 inch i.d.hose.........but when I used a 1/4 i.d hose to suck out cold 15w40 diesel oil, the bucket completely imploded.
I love that I don't have get under my mk7.5 GTI for oil changes. Did the same with my 2014 Beetle and its 1.8L. Now my wife's Mitsubishi, nope! Can't even get the pickup pipe into the oil pan. There is some sort of obstruction that the dipstick can flex around, but the plastic 1/4 inch pipe can't. I have to go under anyway to get the filter, so no big deal. And the Outlander with the V6 is tall enough to not need to use ramps.
Downward engine filters are the worst , I'm happy a lot of cars nowadays have it facing upwards, makes life 10 times easier. My 2006 VW BNV engine has 32 mm upward facing oil casing too :) Happy the MK8 has the steel oil pan , they learnt from the plastic one that burst
On my mk4 Golf TDI, I changed the oil every 10K miles. I sold it with just shy of 400K miles on it. The engine and turbo were still original and ran perfect. 10K mile oil change intervals are probably fine unless you really thrash your car. I do the same thing on my mk7 Golf TDI, and at 90K miles, I've had no issues.
Nice usually they say cars with turbos to change the oil more frequently most probably due to more friction with the turbo as it's constantly spinning etc but yeah 5/7.5/10 is good as long as it gets changed you'll be golden...got a MK4 GTi myself
@@DesolationTech Diesels can be softer on the oil as the particulate is less likely to cause wear and the fuel is less harsh, it's not uncommon to do 10k on many diesels with good results unless run hard. I change it more often on turbo gas vw's because oil dilution can be an issue especially if the pcv isn't working so good or something is chunking out bits of metal (like bpy cam followers).
I love it, great video as always from you folks! You address real world topics and do so in a way that is extremely useful whilst being hilarious. I mean I have watched videos where I am not really doing it for the topic you are covering but I still enjoy it, and always learn something. I have been curious about these oil extractors myself because after doing my own maintenance for years I gave up all my tools in an international move and now live in an apartment. My last oil change was extremely expensive and I still don't really know why. Having one of those would allow me to do it in my parking spot - but I too had this assumption that it was somewhat critical to drain the pan each time. Much appreciated and thank you again for the work you do, which benefits us all!
An oil extractor that is designed to be connected to an air compressor will create constant suction and remove more oil than the hand pump ones, and sometimes remove more oil than a drain. Even the smallest and cheapest air compressor will do, which can be purchased for about $50 at a big box store. One could use a $25 12V tire inflator, but the only problem is that those kind of devices usually don't have interchangeable hose connectors, and can only be used to inflate tires. Many oil extractors designed to be used with an external air compressor are less expensive than the ones with a hand-pump.
I know it's just a small thing, but I only use new oil when coating the O-ring or the mounting gasket on a screw on oil filter. The old oil is full of acids and contaminants. I can't prove it damages the gasket, but I remember years ago when I coated a filter gasket with old oil, it was the only time I had an oil leak from the base of the filter. Maybe it was just a coincidence and I hadn't tightened the filter enough, but I've done many oil changes and it only happened that time.
This depends on the engine. According to the repair manual, you can extract the oil from the dip stick tube on the EA888, but not on many of the other engines in the VAG line.
Just wanted to jump in, late as it is, to comment about the double change thing. I used to work at the food court in the mall and had this busted old salvage title Mitsubishi Galant. Since I didn't really have a ton of space in college, or the interest in doing my own oil changes anyway, I would just get it done at Sears while I was working because I could drop it off at the start of my shift and pick it up on break. I took my car in one day to get an oil change and drove off after, only to have my car suddenly start shuddering at low speed while driving through the mall parking lot back to my side of the mall. Gliding towards my parking space the car shuddered again and shut down entirely. It did all of this again on the way home, which had me thinking my car was dying after my oil change. Watching to eliminate the oil change, I took it back, described the issue to them and had them look the car over. They couldn't figure out what was going on. The car continued the shuddering and shutting down which really makes a drive home in 5pm traffic a daring game. The next day I took it to the mechanic I would usually go to that I trusted, and they checked it out for all of about 10 minutes before coming back into the waiting room and saying "Yeah, they drained your transmission fluid...that's what was going on. We re-filled it for you, but I would recommend you never go back there again". That was the last time I got an oil change done at a place that wasn't a dedicated dealership, though now with the ability to not need to jack the car up and crawl under it (things my apartment complex doesn't exactly smile on in their parking garage) I can start doing them myself. Great video!
I changed my oil in my Mk7.5 every 5000km/~3000mi, from new, and my first 5 or so oil changes, at 5000km, the oil was BLACK. But after about 25000km/~15,000mi, the oil only gets slightly darker between oil changes now. So it's DEFINITELY beneficial to change your oil more often when the engine is new.
I wonder if the VW 50800 Oil in america is different. Here in germany these cars have 30000km/ 2 year intervals (around 20000miles) by VW and every car enthusiasts says that 12-15tkm/ 8-10000miles/ 1 year oil change is totally acceptable. Also with these direct fuel injected engines a black oil is normal, even a sign that the oil has cleaning additives. when I change the oil in my diesel it's black after the first startup.
@@JohnDoe_333 It wasn't simply blow-by because it did go away after about 5 changes. It's possible they are different, you guys got multi-port injection, and we just got direct injection without the port injectors...
When the OEM’s recommended/approved way to remove the oil at the dealers is sucked out… dealers don’t get given enough time to service via the sump plug, the technician would lose time and thus money doing extra untimed work. You can request the change via the sump plug but expect an extra charge.
When I purchased by 2016 Sportwagen VW had an app that put the owners manual on your iPhone and iPad. It was great for searching on key words like type of oil and it was an easy way you to quickly look up info on your car. Unfortunately, they discontinued it, which was a shame because it was extremely useful.
i got me an extractor last month for doing this and was impressed what came out and to see what came out after you pulled the plug, was rather impressive. now if ya can get the pump for the dsg trans in stock so i can do mine.
Fun fact. When i was first out of college I used to change the oil/filter on my Jetta. At 25K miles the oil pump seized. VW blamed me for not being a certified VW mechanic and voided my warranty. BTW, I have an engineering degree, which is what led me to conclusion that the Germans way over complicate the engineering on their vehicles.
I also do all my oil changes myself. However, you can't expect VW to give warranty for all DYI people. It's enough to make a 'small mistake' to ruin the engine so they will request to do the service themselves to preserve warranty.
I had the same with Ford, ask for a quote for brake pads and discs, got a lecture about how these should be done by a qualified engineer, funny that, I did a Rolls Royce apprenticeship and qualified in mechanical engineering craft studies. I never went back to Ford, still did my brake for a tenth of the price.
I also had flecks of that red stuff in my Arteon filter. First oil change had a bit in nearly every pleat; also a small amount of similar green material; also 3 metal slivers, 2-4mm long and under 0.5mm wide. 2nd oil change had ~25 flecks of the red stuff (all under 1.5mm x 0.8mm), which is maybe 7% of the material found in the first change. Also 6 metal flecks, all under 0.4mm long/wide. 3rd oil change had 8 red flecks, no metal.
Bought the extractor for my 23 GTI and it basically enabled easy mode. Did my first chang at 4k and found that i too had red flecks in my oil filter. Hopefully VW isnt as RTV happy as Subaru is with the BRZ.
Bought one. Works great with older vehicles and mowers. Did not work well with my Impala. The sleeves did not make it through the oil dip stick sleeve.
I remember looking at my corrado manual and can still picture the oil grade chart 30 years ago that had arrows and ambient air temps. I never liked that chart but it seems so much better than the crap in the new manuals.
The cheapest VW 508 oil is the 5 quart jug of Mobil1 ESPx2 0W-20 European Car Formula. It's only $27.97, or $5.59/quart. I buy 3 jugs and have enough for 2 oil changes on a 2020 Audi SQ5 with the EA839 V6. With filter, it works out to about $50 an oil change, which is less than 1/3 what the dealer would charge. It is really an unbeatable value.
I brought my 2023 GTI 40th Anniversary to the dealership for its first oil change and the dealership overfilled it with oil. I had to use an oil extractor to get it to the proper level 😮
I found with the EA888 plastic sumps it leaves over a liter of oil after extraction. It all comes down to the design of your sump. So yes, there is an absolute valid argument as to doing this.
@@Deutscheautoparts I got my wife an extractor for her EA888. She didn't follow up with draining the pan but based on the before and after on the dipstick we figured she removed all but about 100 ml also.
I have used an extractor on my 2015 GLI, My wifes 2015 Jetta 1.8T Sport, and my daughters 2011 GTI many times...and have left no more than a shotglass full of oil behind.
My 12 year old Scirocco 1.4 TSI 160Hp got oilchange every year. No consumption at all, but of course more expensive maintenance. Probably less carbon in the intake as well.
I did the same test on a Mini today and got the same result. My only concern is that if the oil is dirty towards the bottom of the sump, the flow of oil coming out the conventional way will flush it out better and not leave deposits on the sump surface.
nearly every car maker displays up to 100k+miles in manual because that is the standard rate of maintenance once you reach over 100k on any car it should have a detailed overhaul and inspection of nearly everything, due to weather/time/corrosion ect and change as needed. Also the highest mileage VW was a 1986 jetta that hit 600,000miles on the original engine which is roughly 1million kms. Cars are not meant to last "forever" again the standard is about 120k miles before it needs detailed overview that does not mean its done. Just that it should be properly checked and maintained.
I just love watching this video! He’s funny as hell. Hell i forgot what I was looking up he’s so funny. Carol must be a jerk! But yes we can do what the “F” we want and burn the hell out of ourselves 🤣 Sometimes you read both books to learn it says contact dealer. “F”!!!!!!!!! You guys are the BEST!
Anecdote time: I did the 'over pump happy fun time' and caused the vacuum to explode inwardly, launching hot oil all over me, the car, and the driveway. I lost a good pair of socks and sneakers that day.
Hey I bet you learned not to wear your good socks and sneakers when goofing off in the garage, though. I used to hate how all of the current tools are made super cheaply, causing stuff that's supposed to hold vacuum to fracture if you actually try pulling a ton of vacuum on it. Then I realized that loads of people probably got hurt back in the day by blowing stuff up and today's stuff, while shitty, probably has "softer" failure modes.
Question: When sucking the oil out, do you lose the benefit from a conventional drain of having contaminants "flushed out" with the flow of oil rather than staying at the bottom of the pan? I'd like to see a comparison of oil pans from vehicles that have done only conventional drain versus only sucking the oil out.
No. You actually get more oil out with extractor BECAUSE the drain hole is up from the "floor" of oil pan. But if you are sucking a different make for the first time, then if would not hurt to verify. Now if you see a drain plug on bottom of pan, be aware that often a nut is tacked inside. So now it's like the drain hole is a castle with an oil moat around it. Extractor could win.However, on my 97 tdi by design the drain plug is the lowest part of the pan, almost like a funnel. Crawling under car sucks, and so does my extractor! If you are worried about 1 oz oil in pan, then watch these guys flip an engine for teardown. There is SO much oil that pours out of the block. Recently I did an engine treatment flush. Drained oil and replaced with cheapest and wrong weight oil. Then I ran engine for ~2 minutes. Sucked it out and replaced with proper oil. What came out was alot darker than 5 minutes earlier. I did it with a new filter and just left it in. Will be interesting to see next change. I usually park a front wheel on a short 2x6 so oil oozes downhill toward dipstick. I recently heard Europeans are worried about oil being dumped on grass. To combat this drain plugs no longer exist. Next door neighbor used to work for BMW. I assume he wasn't pulling my leg about sucking oil in German cars. But knowing how they do things in the Eastern Block, and since they have moved west, so has the oil dumping problem.
Suggestion... When you loosen the oil filter housing, be sure you break the seal so air can enter the housing. After a minute or so you shouldn't see any oil dripping from the filter when you remove it. I never do.
@@enacku : The oil in the filter housing is the same oil that is in the sump. It's just trapped in the housing by vacuum. It will drain back to the sump anyway when you break that vacuum so you want to do it before you pump out the sump.
Beware, check your car first! I bought an extractor based on this and other videos, and have changed it this way 3 times (2L Passat TDI 2013 / CFGC). Third time I measured the quantity of oil coming out and it was not enough. Drained the oil again with extractor, then opened the drain plug. Almost a litre was left in the sump :(. I think what is happening is due to an obstruction that I needed to push past when placing the extractor tube. The tube contacted the sump floor at an angle, so that it started sucking air with several millimetres still remaining. Once it sucks air, you cant suck any more oil.
I call shenanigans. You should have more than that on these gravity vacuum pumps and there is a reference to it in their own documentation. I have seen a powered vacuum clean and sum like this.
Thanks for the great tutorial! Just a question, did you add all 5+1 = 6 liters of new oil into the car, or did you add 5.7 liters (I think that's what the owner manual as the capacity for mk8 GTI)?
Glad I’m not the only one who’s been brain washed by the ways of Captain Planet. “Don’t run water while you brush your teeth kids”. Great video as always!
If you cut your old oil container in half you can stick it in your oil fill hole and voila a free oil funnel.....and if you put the lid back on and slide the 2 parts together and it keeps it nice and tidy for your next time
The cautions and warnings dont actually comes from a lawyer but instead the risk management file, If they cannot design something that can be inheriently safe, then they will add a warning and caution in the manual that no one reads :)
Extractor works perfectly on my Mk7 GTI--pretty much all the oil. On my 2012 Beetle Turbo with a 2.0T, not so much--still leaves over 1.5 liters of oil.
Sounds like you may not be getting to the bottom of the oil pan. I have a 2015 GLI, 2015 Jetta 1.8T Sport, and a 2011 GTI and my oil extractor works perfectly on all of them.
Find all the parts for your VW or Audi! - www.shopdap.com/
- We appreciate your Support and Purchases! -
Find your oil extractor here! - www.shopdap.com/werkzeug-usa-tool/vw-audi-oil-extractor.html
I love My oil extractor it works very well
Can this tool work on a 2017 VW GTI ?
I love using oil extractors for changing oil. Sooo much easier than crawling under.
The lesson learned when using one of those oil extractors is to always make sure the adapter where the tubing switches to smaller diameter is secured firmly. Mine came off when I was pumping the oil out of the extractor into the oil jug and made a mess.
Same
thanks for the heads up.
This makes me so happy! I’ve been using an extractor on my MK7 since new. It’s a 2017 with the factory oil drain plug still! 🤣
From a self certified DIY mechanic, this video is very funny, I have never taken my new 4 runner to the shop. After 80,000k of oil changes done by myself. Why would I. I love working on my cars.
Great video😂. Keep them coming.
After I took the car out of the dealer floor, within a 3 months I was already getting calls from them to do the first oil change and check up. I just ignored them completely, actually, I told them I can do that all myself to have a blessed day. They never call me again, just sent me silly emails there after. I have a membership to a car wash, everytime I pull up to the Toyota dealership to buy oil, they keep on commenting,” wow this car looks new.” I grinch every time I see the long line ups of cars waiting to get oil changes and services at the dealership.
I never thought an oil change could be so entertaining
I don't even own a VW any longer, but still watched and enjoyed the video.
I just spent 20 minutes watching a guy change oil. This is what I do with my free time. 😆
But did you like it?
@@Deutscheautoparts, it sucked. 😆
No, you watched a short case study. It's like college, but you're learning something useful.
That’s not true, about 5 minutes of it is someone reading the owners manual
At least he keeps it entertaining. Lol
I thank you very much for all your videos, they are very useful, I am from Saltillo, Coahuila, Mexico, and there is no one here who is as specific and professional as you, in VW TSI engines, your instructions are the most complete that there are in yt, Thank you again, I would like your videos to include subtitles in Spanish, we appreciate you very much, and we hope that your channel and your professionalism last forever, thank you
I have visited Saltillo many times (for business trips) and have always enjoyed my visits. For others who may visit, definitely see the Museo del Desierto.
I would venture that maybe someone in Puebla may produce videos en Espanol specific to VW.
Honestly, changing oil this way is like 100 times easyer, better, cleaner and for sure more pro!
Best part is how much the camera guy appreciates your comedy
Try holding the oil bottle on the side while you pour the oil. Prevents the bubbles, easier perfect pours ;)
Yep, stops the glug.
I changed my oil for the first time on my GTI a few months ago thanks to you!
They wrote the manual to make fun of you lol, lucky to have knowledgeable ppl who point in the right direction.
Or if you happen to be slightly more clever, youd be investing in a *Haynes Manual* Just Sayin'... 👍
So I'm a volkswagen dealership technician and something that surprised me when I first joined the brand was that VW actually specifically write on service sheets "do not extract oil" so technically VW say that you shouldn't do this but like you say in the video its a known process in the VW and audi community, personally I think no matter how you drain the oil the most important thing is the oils getting replaced either way
I think it can suck gaskets n seals from within... if it's to strong..
IMO . How lazy can you be to need n extractor..
5min to do oil changes. Been doing it since 1993.
@@hotshotfx3502 for sure not on the Mk 7 Golfs unless you're really rushing. You have to remove the belly pan to access the drain plug.
The vacuum pumps don't have enough suction to damage seals, either; even if they did, if you leave the fill cap or filter housing open, there's no chance of pulling a vacuum in the crankcase at all.
@@hotshotfx3502 Talking about being lazy but spells and as n and instead of saying in my opinion you say IMO.
@@bfielder9097 I know No time with all the oil changes I'm knocking out.
@@hotshotfx3502 Its not about being lazy, its about ramp space, floor space, garage space. Lets say you park on the road, you can use one of these instead of jacking up each side of the car, putting stands under, and crawling under a confined space. If you have a proper garage and even a car lift, if you have a car up on the lift, you can do an oil change out in the parking lot. I live in a city I do all my oil changes, and car work on a street with people driving past me, I just cant bring myself to climb under the car unless I really need to. If you have a garage and you have ramps, and all that stuff, then using one of these is I agree lazy, as you wont even save much time.
Love where vw is putting the filter now, just makes it easier
Is this not where the oil filter had been for a while now? My mk6 is in that general spot. I think it's been the same since maybe the mk5.
@@rjmari no way I had two Mkv’s and they only had the housing underneath. So it was done with the Mk6’s?
@@04r32murse Oh ok. Bad assumption on my part. But yea, it's in this same location since mk6.
Mk 5 GT diesel filter is up on top of the engine.
Im a big fan of Automotive Neal Brennan. Dude's hilarious.
Can't believe I've never thought of doing it this way! Will be having a go on my MK8 GTI Clubsport at the weekend.
I carefully used a pipe wrench on the plastic filter housing, worked fine. And I love this method of changing oil, I will never take off the oil plug ever again on this car.
My Golf doesn't even have engine oil and I still loved this video.
I was surprised to see a steel oil pan and crush washer rather than the composite one from the MK7!
VW cuts cost sometimes but other times they over engineer.
I perform an additional step when using an oil extractor (bought mine from Griot's years ago); after removing the pipette from the dip stick tube, wipe it off and place it in the bottom of the filter housing to suck up the remaining oil there. You'll have to pump the handle once or twice while moving the tube around but it works quite well to remove whatever's left. Then install the new oil filter.
But the remaining oil flows down to the pan anyway.
@@GymChess don't think you quite understand...after removing the oil filter, if you look down into the bottom of the filter housing, there is oil sitting there that doesn't make it to the pan. It's maybe a few ounces at most, but I like to remove it so it doesn't contaminate the new oil.
@@jeandunow7794 lol well if you think that a few drops make a difference go ahead.
@@GymChess Well, there are quite a few people dead set against using an oil extractor cuz they don't think it gets all the dirty oil out! I'm just anal! 😂
@@jeandunow7794 I used an extractor myself in October when I did my most recent oil change. It works great. The only downside as I see it, is that you don't get to do s general check under the car like when you do a "normal" oil change. Other than that, sucking the oil up is perfectly fine.
In contrast, over my 30 years of Japanese car ownership, the owner's manuals have been models of clarity and brevity. Right to the point, and with an index too! That's my experience with Suzuki, Mazda, and Honda owner's manuals.
2017 Subaru manuals total about 2 inches thick and are as bad as the video's
Agreed. I’ve owned Hondas since 2015 and their manuals pretty much tell you all you need to know for servicing the car, compared to a vw manual that just basically tells you to take it to the dealer.
I was surprised to see how much oil didn’t come out ofter extraction. You’ll still get the non-believers.. “you cut the video, you just edited it” blah blah blah. 😂
OMG I can’t believe you mentioned the oil change place emptying the transmission fluid and overfilling the engine oil. Happened to my son. Luckily he realized something was up and was very close to a reputable mechanic. No damage done.
Paul, I do a oil change every 5,000km on every car I own so I’m doing one every week, open up a store in Australia. TRUST ME.
The comment Carl's are the ones keeping your channel alive.
I love vw's one manual to confound them all. Been trying to work out what oil to get for my Mum's 08 1.9 pd tdi for 3 months..... Thanks for the label tip
The amsoil site is actually a really good resource as well, even if you don’t buy their stuff it shows the capacity and oil type required for quite a lot of vehicles
Bro, Rotella T6 for life My Son...
Any oil that meets VAG 504/507 standards usually 5w30 or 5w40
@@Mr330d mannol is cheap and is what I run in all my cars, just as you said get the spec needed for your car and change regularly not every 15k.
@@Mr330d Many thanks for that tip. It sent me back to the manual and I think that its 507 that Mum's Bertha Bluebell needs and not a moment too soon. Her cataract surgery went well so now she can see the "service now" warning. LOL
I paid $50 for a HF version years ago. It's a game changer for me. No need to read the user manual just throw it away. This is one of my top 10 items you must buy from HF. I use this for everything from bleeding brake to power steering to oil change. I use this once ever 5K then full change every 10K so I can swap out the filter ... yeah yeah I have to jack it up to get access. I love this device man, can't speak enough value it bought when doing brake bleed by myself. I used to suffer from massive hand sore using hand pump, for a few extra bucks this thing just take entire stress out of the equation. I mean 0 stress and I'm loving it. As a matter of fact the pump is so powerful, you're going to need to work fast or your master cylinder will be empty and you'll end up with more air pockets.
That phrase should be on one of your t shirts!!! I would definitely buy one!!
Which one
@@Deutscheautoparts suitably qualified professional..Do it on the back of a shirt with the phrase I am a #suitablyqualifiedprofessional..I think that would be hilarious and would definitely buy one!!
Thank your for the video. Thanks to this video I bought an oil extractor as I am planning to change the oil every 10.OOO km (=6.200 miles) of my recently bought used VW Beetle cabrio 2016 1.2 tsi. I will have to baby that itty bitty engine. Greetings from Belgium.
I tried making my own oil extractor about 15 years ago. I converted a small Harbor Freight air compressor into a vacuum pump and used a 5 gallon bucket as the vessel. It worked pretty well on water and coolant with a 1/2 inch i.d.hose.........but when I used a 1/4 i.d hose to suck out cold 15w40 diesel oil, the bucket completely imploded.
Great attempt though! Sure you had a royal mess afterwards...
the image of a harbor freight contraption's bucket imploding with a guy looking dumbfounded looking at it was very funny
There’s plenty of cheap 12v pumps on The ‘Zon now for oil extraction. Key is, the engine oil has to be warm-to-hot, cannot be cold.
I love that I don't have get under my mk7.5 GTI for oil changes. Did the same with my 2014 Beetle and its 1.8L. Now my wife's Mitsubishi, nope! Can't even get the pickup pipe into the oil pan. There is some sort of obstruction that the dipstick can flex around, but the plastic 1/4 inch pipe can't. I have to go under anyway to get the filter, so no big deal. And the Outlander with the V6 is tall enough to not need to use ramps.
Just changed my oil (new Skoda Octavia VRS, same engine). I used my vacuum extractor. Worked perfectly and got out the full 5.7 litres.
This is a great idea. If it works on your particular car. Easier, cleaner, etc.
Downward engine filters are the worst , I'm happy a lot of cars nowadays have it facing upwards, makes life 10 times easier.
My 2006 VW BNV engine has 32 mm upward facing oil casing too :)
Happy the MK8 has the steel oil pan , they learnt from the plastic one that burst
I used my pump yesterday on my LandRover Discovery 3 well impressed with it
Always did this to my Audis and VWs. If your filter is on top it makes the easiest oil changes.
Best thing I ever bought, never have to get under the car.
On my mk4 Golf TDI, I changed the oil every 10K miles. I sold it with just shy of 400K miles on it. The engine and turbo were still original and ran perfect. 10K mile oil change intervals are probably fine unless you really thrash your car. I do the same thing on my mk7 Golf TDI, and at 90K miles, I've had no issues.
Nice usually they say cars with turbos to change the oil more frequently most probably due to more friction with the turbo as it's constantly spinning etc but yeah 5/7.5/10 is good as long as it gets changed you'll be golden...got a MK4 GTi myself
@@DesolationTech Diesels can be softer on the oil as the particulate is less likely to cause wear and the fuel is less harsh, it's not uncommon to do 10k on many diesels with good results unless run hard. I change it more often on turbo gas vw's because oil dilution can be an issue especially if the pcv isn't working so good or something is chunking out bits of metal (like bpy cam followers).
I'm freaking out at 6k miles because I usually change at 4k. Been too busy.
10000km is the perfect oil change interval! 15000km is the economy one :P The lazy one is somewhere in between. The last one is the one I use.
I love it, great video as always from you folks! You address real world topics and do so in a way that is extremely useful whilst being hilarious. I mean I have watched videos where I am not really doing it for the topic you are covering but I still enjoy it, and always learn something. I have been curious about these oil extractors myself because after doing my own maintenance for years I gave up all my tools in an international move and now live in an apartment. My last oil change was extremely expensive and I still don't really know why. Having one of those would allow me to do it in my parking spot - but I too had this assumption that it was somewhat critical to drain the pan each time. Much appreciated and thank you again for the work you do, which benefits us all!
Almost spat out my drink with Captain Planet pun. Classic!
“How Low Can It Blow”
Title of your next UA-cam channel
Got an extractor when I bought my audi, so nice
An oil extractor that is designed to be connected to an air compressor will create constant suction and remove more oil than the hand pump ones, and sometimes remove more oil than a drain. Even the smallest and cheapest air compressor will do, which can be purchased for about $50 at a big box store. One could use a $25 12V tire inflator, but the only problem is that those kind of devices usually don't have interchangeable hose connectors, and can only be used to inflate tires. Many oil extractors designed to be used with an external air compressor are less expensive than the ones with a hand-pump.
I know it's just a small thing, but I only use new oil when coating the O-ring or the mounting gasket on a screw on oil filter. The old oil is full of acids and contaminants. I can't prove it damages the gasket, but I remember years ago when I coated a filter gasket with old oil, it was the only time I had an oil leak from the base of the filter. Maybe it was just a coincidence and I hadn't tightened the filter enough, but I've done many oil changes and it only happened that time.
Owell
Pretty sure you got more oil out with the extractor than I do by pulling the drain plug 😆
Pro Tip: Cut the end of the suction hose at an angle. Then you can shove it all the way down, 'til it bottoms out.
This depends on the engine.
According to the repair manual, you can extract the oil from the dip stick tube on the EA888, but not on many of the other engines in the VAG line.
Just wanted to jump in, late as it is, to comment about the double change thing.
I used to work at the food court in the mall and had this busted old salvage title Mitsubishi Galant. Since I didn't really have a ton of space in college, or the interest in doing my own oil changes anyway, I would just get it done at Sears while I was working because I could drop it off at the start of my shift and pick it up on break.
I took my car in one day to get an oil change and drove off after, only to have my car suddenly start shuddering at low speed while driving through the mall parking lot back to my side of the mall. Gliding towards my parking space the car shuddered again and shut down entirely.
It did all of this again on the way home, which had me thinking my car was dying after my oil change. Watching to eliminate the oil change, I took it back, described the issue to them and had them look the car over. They couldn't figure out what was going on.
The car continued the shuddering and shutting down which really makes a drive home in 5pm traffic a daring game. The next day I took it to the mechanic I would usually go to that I trusted, and they checked it out for all of about 10 minutes before coming back into the waiting room and saying "Yeah, they drained your transmission fluid...that's what was going on. We re-filled it for you, but I would recommend you never go back there again".
That was the last time I got an oil change done at a place that wasn't a dedicated dealership, though now with the ability to not need to jack the car up and crawl under it (things my apartment complex doesn't exactly smile on in their parking garage) I can start doing them myself.
Great video!
I changed my oil in my Mk7.5 every 5000km/~3000mi, from new, and my first 5 or so oil changes, at 5000km, the oil was BLACK. But after about 25000km/~15,000mi, the oil only gets slightly darker between oil changes now.
So it's DEFINITELY beneficial to change your oil more often when the engine is new.
I wonder if the VW 50800 Oil in america is different. Here in germany these cars have 30000km/ 2 year intervals (around 20000miles) by VW and every car enthusiasts says that 12-15tkm/ 8-10000miles/ 1 year oil change is totally acceptable.
Also with these direct fuel injected engines a black oil is normal, even a sign that the oil has cleaning additives. when I change the oil in my diesel it's black after the first startup.
@@JohnDoe_333 It wasn't simply blow-by because it did go away after about 5 changes.
It's possible they are different, you guys got multi-port injection, and we just got direct injection without the port injectors...
When the OEM’s recommended/approved way to remove the oil at the dealers is sucked out… dealers don’t get given enough time to service via the sump plug, the technician would lose time and thus money doing extra untimed work. You can request the change via the sump plug but expect an extra charge.
When I purchased by 2016 Sportwagen VW had an app that put the owners manual on your iPhone and iPad. It was great for searching on key words like type of oil and it was an easy way you to quickly look up info on your car. Unfortunately, they discontinued it, which was a shame because it was extremely useful.
Are u sure u are not Marc Antony's brother? U look like him. Thanks for sharing this. I always believe in this method.
i got me an extractor last month for doing this and was impressed what came out and to see what came out after you pulled the plug, was rather impressive. now if ya can get the pump for the dsg trans in stock so i can do mine.
in mark7, the 0,5l - 0,6l left. good job vw.
Fun fact. When i was first out of college I used to change the oil/filter on my Jetta. At 25K miles the oil pump seized. VW blamed me for not being a certified VW mechanic and voided my warranty. BTW, I have an engineering degree, which is what led me to conclusion that the Germans way over complicate the engineering on their vehicles.
Best engineering and design keep it simple, reliable and lasting.
I also do all my oil changes myself. However, you can't expect VW to give warranty for all DYI people. It's enough to make a 'small mistake' to ruin the engine so they will request to do the service themselves to preserve warranty.
I had the same with Ford, ask for a quote for brake pads and discs, got a lecture about how these should be done by a qualified engineer, funny that, I did a Rolls Royce apprenticeship and qualified in mechanical engineering craft studies. I never went back to Ford, still did my brake for a tenth of the price.
now i want that oil extractor!. thought manual pump didnt exists until this video
I also had flecks of that red stuff in my Arteon filter. First oil change had a bit in nearly every pleat; also a small amount of similar green material; also 3 metal slivers, 2-4mm long and under 0.5mm wide. 2nd oil change had ~25 flecks of the red stuff (all under 1.5mm x 0.8mm), which is maybe 7% of the material found in the first change. Also 6 metal flecks, all under 0.4mm long/wide. 3rd oil change had 8 red flecks, no metal.
Bought the extractor for my 23 GTI and it basically enabled easy mode. Did my first chang at 4k and found that i too had red flecks in my oil filter. Hopefully VW isnt as RTV happy as Subaru is with the BRZ.
Bought one. Works great with older vehicles and mowers. Did not work well with my Impala. The sleeves did not make it through the oil dip stick sleeve.
Answer 11:10
"I sucked this thing dry" LOL -perfect delivery.
I don't have a GTI but that was very entertaining 👍🏾
The moment the drain plug was removed and nothing came out...priceless
For some reasons in Europe vw don’t like extractors, it says on the service sheets you must drain not extract
I remember looking at my corrado manual and can still picture the oil grade chart 30 years ago that had arrows and ambient air temps. I never liked that chart but it seems so much better than the crap in the new manuals.
This is my exact process...except I usually have a cold beer in my hand while I wait for the extractor to do its thing.
Love the constipated voice impression of Comment Carl
The cheapest VW 508 oil is the 5 quart jug of Mobil1 ESPx2 0W-20 European Car Formula. It's only $27.97, or $5.59/quart. I buy 3 jugs and have enough for 2 oil changes on a 2020 Audi SQ5 with the EA839 V6. With filter, it works out to about $50 an oil change, which is less than 1/3 what the dealer would charge. It is really an unbeatable value.
Paul, you crack me up so much it hurts!
Perfect video except that perfect pour 😅 turning the bottle horizontal allows you to pour alot smoother and accurate. I guess better airflow 🤷🏾♂️
getting zero drip is so damn impressive
I brought my 2023 GTI 40th Anniversary to the dealership for its first oil change and the dealership overfilled it with oil. I had to use an oil extractor to get it to the proper level 😮
14:00 Torque wrenches are what set “Volkswagen Certified Service Mechanics” from “Certified Mechanics who service Volkswagens”. 😀
Exactly the same with my Polo 6N1 in Germany. The oil was 100% extracted.
I found with the EA888 plastic sumps it leaves over a liter of oil after extraction. It all comes down to the design of your sump. So yes, there is an absolute valid argument as to doing this.
We tested on a MK7 and got 100ml
@@Deutscheautoparts It be good if you did a compiled list of what engines you can can cant do it on.
@@Deutscheautoparts I got my wife an extractor for her EA888. She didn't follow up with draining the pan but based on the before and after on the dipstick we figured she removed all but about 100 ml also.
@@randys3010 I just did it on my S1 EA888 2.0 and same got basically nothing out of it lol. Can confirm this also happens on a 2015 Polo GTI EA888 1.8
I have used an extractor on my 2015 GLI, My wifes 2015 Jetta 1.8T Sport, and my daughters 2011 GTI many times...and have left no more than a shotglass full of oil behind.
Came for the car subbed for the comedy :)
My 12 year old Scirocco 1.4 TSI 160Hp got oilchange every year. No consumption at all, but of course more expensive maintenance. Probably less carbon in the intake as well.
Captain planet lol... always entertaining guys! You're awesome!
I did the same test on a Mini today and got the same result. My only concern is that if the oil is dirty towards the bottom of the sump, the flow of oil coming out the conventional way will flush it out better and not leave deposits on the sump surface.
I love how their maintenance manual only shows maintenance to 120k miles... They're not expecting the car to last beyond that point.
nearly every car maker displays up to 100k+miles in manual because that is the standard rate of maintenance once you reach over 100k on any car it should have a detailed overhaul and inspection of nearly everything, due to weather/time/corrosion ect and change as needed. Also the highest mileage VW was a 1986 jetta that hit 600,000miles on the original engine which is roughly 1million kms. Cars are not meant to last "forever" again the standard is about 120k miles before it needs detailed overview that does not mean its done. Just that it should be properly checked and maintained.
I do it on my CLK 500 to get that 8th quart out of the engine and is so worth it cause my oil stays so clean for at least 3000 miles
Oh man, they got rid of the grey piece on the end of the dipstick that made it easier too see the level.
I just love watching this video! He’s funny as hell. Hell i forgot what I was looking up he’s so funny. Carol must be a jerk! But yes we can do what the “F” we want and burn the hell out of ourselves 🤣
Sometimes you read both books to learn it says contact dealer. “F”!!!!!!!!!
You guys are the BEST!
Excellent vid Paul
Anecdote time: I did the 'over pump happy fun time' and caused the vacuum to explode inwardly, launching hot oil all over me, the car, and the driveway. I lost a good pair of socks and sneakers that day.
Hey I bet you learned not to wear your good socks and sneakers when goofing off in the garage, though.
I used to hate how all of the current tools are made super cheaply, causing stuff that's supposed to hold vacuum to fracture if you actually try pulling a ton of vacuum on it. Then I realized that loads of people probably got hurt back in the day by blowing stuff up and today's stuff, while shitty, probably has "softer" failure modes.
Yikes 😳
Question: When sucking the oil out, do you lose the benefit from a conventional drain of having contaminants "flushed out" with the flow of oil rather than staying at the bottom of the pan? I'd like to see a comparison of oil pans from vehicles that have done only conventional drain versus only sucking the oil out.
No. You actually get more oil out with extractor BECAUSE the drain hole is up from the "floor" of oil pan. But if you are sucking a different make for the first time, then if would not hurt to verify. Now if you see a drain plug on bottom of pan, be aware that often a nut is tacked inside. So now it's like the drain hole is a castle with an oil moat around it. Extractor could win.However, on my 97 tdi by design the drain plug is the lowest part of the pan, almost like a funnel. Crawling under car sucks, and so does my extractor!
If you are worried about 1 oz oil in pan, then watch these guys flip an engine for teardown. There is SO much oil that pours out of the block.
Recently I did an engine treatment flush. Drained oil and replaced with cheapest and wrong weight oil. Then I ran engine for ~2 minutes. Sucked it out and replaced with proper oil. What came out was alot darker than 5 minutes earlier. I did it with a new filter and just left it in. Will be interesting to see next change.
I usually park a front wheel on a short 2x6 so oil oozes downhill toward dipstick.
I recently heard Europeans are worried about oil being dumped on grass. To combat this drain plugs no longer exist. Next door neighbor used to work for BMW. I assume he wasn't pulling my leg about sucking oil in German cars. But knowing how they do things in the Eastern Block, and since they have moved west, so has the oil dumping problem.
Suggestion... When you loosen the oil filter housing, be sure you break the seal so air can enter the housing. After a minute or so you shouldn't see any oil dripping from the filter when you remove it. I never do.
why would you want more oil caught with dirty elements in the filter drain back in to engine?
@@enacku : The oil in the filter housing is the same oil that is in the sump. It's just trapped in the housing by vacuum. It will drain back to the sump anyway when you break that vacuum so you want to do it before you pump out the sump.
Beware, check your car first! I bought an extractor based on this and other videos, and have changed it this way 3 times (2L Passat TDI 2013 / CFGC). Third time I measured the quantity of oil coming out and it was not enough. Drained the oil again with extractor, then opened the drain plug. Almost a litre was left in the sump :(.
I think what is happening is due to an obstruction that I needed to push past when placing the extractor tube. The tube contacted the sump floor at an angle, so that it started sucking air with several millimetres still remaining. Once it sucks air, you cant suck any more oil.
Why did I just watch an entire oil change video? 🤣 speaking of that though, I need to do mine I’m at 59,945!
I call shenanigans.
You should have more than that on these gravity vacuum pumps and there is a reference to it in their own documentation.
I have seen a powered vacuum clean and sum like this.
I mean…. We showed the results
Thanks for the great tutorial! Just a question, did you add all 5+1 = 6 liters of new oil into the car, or did you add 5.7 liters (I think that's what the owner manual as the capacity for mk8 GTI)?
Glad I’m not the only one who’s been brain washed by the ways of Captain Planet. “Don’t run water while you brush your teeth kids”. Great video as always!
I like how the manual words “you can check the oil…” as if they are giving you permission 😂
If you cut your old oil container in half you can stick it in your oil fill hole and voila a free oil funnel.....and if you put the lid back on and slide the 2 parts together and it keeps it nice and tidy for your next time
The cautions and warnings dont actually comes from a lawyer but instead the risk management file, If they cannot design something that can be inheriently safe, then they will add a warning and caution in the manual that no one reads :)
This is a verry well lubricated video.
That's what she said
Extractor works perfectly on my Mk7 GTI--pretty much all the oil. On my 2012 Beetle Turbo with a 2.0T, not so much--still leaves over 1.5 liters of oil.
Sounds like you may not be getting to the bottom of the oil pan. I have a 2015 GLI, 2015 Jetta 1.8T Sport, and a 2011 GTI and my oil extractor works perfectly on all of them.
This was a hilarious video. You going thru the owners manual had me in tears.
"give me your wallet, send it UPS"