Great shop video. I'm lucky I suppose that I still haven't broke a chassis on my 4s Outcast yet *crosses fingers 🤞* I haven't even looked at the pins on it heh. I'll definitely be keeping this tip in mind if I start having issues. I still just really want one of those center diffs.. 🙂🤘👍
Yeah the main issue is with the v2 4s cars those pins were way to short I found pretty quickly but with this v2.5 they have fixed it with tlr tuned typhon pins
How has it been holding up until now? Im debating between this and the granite blx and make it wider. Want a durable and easy to work on truck that backflips easy
@@t3floz well check out my community page theirs a link to a new video I will be making public in a few hours I have beat on this thing and it just don't break way better then my fully built 6s and 8s cars lol
@@RC4us absolutely man! The only worry I have is that I will breake the chassi because i really don’t want to have swap parts to a new one. But I know about the chassi brace and the hinge pin mod. Would they bulletproof it?
@@t3floz like I say in my new video I still haven't broken any of my 4s chassis....no rc is bulletproof that's just not a real thing but you can definitely set them up so your breaking simple thing like shock rod ends.... but your always going to need a weak spot for them bad landings doing the hinge pin mod and chassis brace will take care of almost all the broken chassis and I'm recording a video tonight on how to fix the steering another new mod I've been working on with garage life rc Here is the new video link ARRMA OUTCAST 4s Ramp Bash and it's still not broken ua-cam.com/video/V6lR5cTpuAE/v-deo.html
Hey would titanium pins would hold up better? I was just asking to avoid this drill part of the upgrade😊. Ali Express has listed titanium pins for $15 a pair
@@nivin3 I mean they would work but the problem isn't necessarily the material it's the actual length they come from the factory to short and rip out of the retainer
@@RC4us OK I just read your other comments that it's mostly a V2 problem. Forgot to mention mine is a V2.5 Kraton and light basher like 3ft that's all so hopefully I don't have to worry? Thanks man
@ yeah with the v2.5 the switched them to the tlr tuned length pins which helps a lot but didn't actually fix the problem as long as your not really sending it your probably safe just beware of cartwheels they will really hurt it.... the worst part is what breaks is the actual chassis so a lot of work
@@summy4998 absolutely it's the only one I have that I don't have them on but they are the same hubs on all the 4s cars... the new steering mod from garagelife rc works too
I actually know a few people but yes this design is a bit better it's more like the Mojave 4s chassis that's the reason m2c redesigned the chassis brace when they made the motor mount....
@@jasoncarroll-eo7ul I appreciate that make sure to hope over on m2c website and let them know I know they love feed back.... Hopefully you check out the other upgrade videos this v2.5 outcast of mine is becoming a stunt machine lol just got a hobbywing max10 g2 combo with the 2400kv motor an it's gonna be amazing lol
Yeah I just got a new Esc for my sons XMAXX on the way , stocker shit the bed yesterday. Slowly building two trucks outcast and XMAXX. Hope to add a third this summer prob a maxx v2
@@jasoncarroll-eo7ul I'm not big in to TRAXXAS but that probably shows lol I'd say get a 4s ARRMA less to worry about faster more stable easier to work on and cheaper
From what I’ve seen guys are still ripping pins out of the chassis instead of breaking arms even with the v2.5 because the arms are still to beefy. Sucks and such an oversight on arrmas part.
I've not had a issue since I started doing this an honestly the issue isn't the v2.5 they have fixed it not them selves but when the v2 came out the pins were to short they barely touched that red retaining block an them big beefy arms an tires would rip out of the retainer allowing the pin to come out of that end an still stuck in chassis snapping the chassis back then I used tlr typhon pins cause they are different then all other 6s cars... they use them adjusting pills in the suspension blocks those are the perfect length you don't need to do anything just put those in but I then learned the 6s pins are a tiny bit longer an that if you make it deeper the 6s pins fit mint well you saw in the video it's just a bonus to use m2c harden pins an the 7075 a & d retainer but it's not needed to fix this issue an the v2.5 don't even really need anything as they now use longer pins hope that helps clear up what I'm doing an thanks for watching
Sweet mod Mike.Gonna do that today.Not much else to do in rain soaked flooded England.Just wrenching and loving the thought of springtime.✌️
We go cold ice rain an snow all coming down
@@RC4us Get yaself some spiked tyres.Right now in uk a Rc Submarine would be good.✌
@@johnnyhaberfield721 I like tires with air control
Thanks Mike! Just finished my M2C Racing upgrades. I did the lower hardened pins all around and got the new chassis brace on. Time to get bashin! 👊🏻😎
Heck yeah my friend that's a great upgrade
awesome upgrade! thanks for sharing this with us!!!
With out M2C the RC community would be a lot different you and Mitch an scientist....
Excellent thank you. Now just need more on the v 2.5 especially Kraton v2.5!!
I will have more this is the same just shorter
Awesome video Mike thanks for sharing and letting us know about this , Stay awesome bother !
Chris :)
Great shop video. I'm lucky I suppose that I still haven't broke a chassis on my 4s Outcast yet *crosses fingers 🤞* I haven't even looked at the pins on it heh. I'll definitely be keeping this tip in mind if I start having issues. I still just really want one of those center diffs.. 🙂🤘👍
Yeah the main issue is with the v2 4s cars those pins were way to short I found pretty quickly but with this v2.5 they have fixed it with tlr tuned typhon pins
Thanks did you put countersunk screws before fitting bumpers or did you use normal ones from bumpers
@@owen8538 normal
@RC4us I will do same tho I putting larger m4 instead
Nice tip 👌
How has it been holding up until now? Im debating between this and the granite blx and make it wider. Want a durable and easy to work on truck that backflips easy
@@t3floz well check out my community page theirs a link to a new video I will be making public in a few hours I have beat on this thing and it just don't break way better then my fully built 6s and 8s cars lol
@@RC4us absolutely man! The only worry I have is that I will breake the chassi because i really don’t want to have swap parts to a new one. But I know about the chassi brace and the hinge pin mod. Would they bulletproof it?
@@t3floz like I say in my new video I still haven't broken any of my 4s chassis....no rc is bulletproof that's just not a real thing but you can definitely set them up so your breaking simple thing like shock rod ends.... but your always going to need a weak spot for them bad landings doing the hinge pin mod and chassis brace will take care of almost all the broken chassis and I'm recording a video tonight on how to fix the steering another new mod I've been working on with garage life rc
Here is the new video link
ARRMA OUTCAST 4s Ramp Bash and it's still not broken
ua-cam.com/video/V6lR5cTpuAE/v-deo.html
Hey would titanium pins would hold up better? I was just asking to avoid this drill part of the upgrade😊. Ali Express has listed titanium pins for $15 a pair
@@nivin3 I mean they would work but the problem isn't necessarily the material it's the actual length they come from the factory to short and rip out of the retainer
@@RC4us OK I just read your other comments that it's mostly a V2 problem. Forgot to mention mine is a V2.5 Kraton and light basher like 3ft that's all so hopefully I don't have to worry? Thanks man
@ yeah with the v2.5 the switched them to the tlr tuned length pins which helps a lot but didn't actually fix the problem as long as your not really sending it your probably safe just beware of cartwheels they will really hurt it.... the worst part is what breaks is the actual chassis so a lot of work
@@RC4us OK... I will learn to drill now... Lol thanks man jokes apart I might look at ordering the parts you mentioned
Sorry to bother again... The drill bits you uses is concrete or wood bits? Coz I see the tips are different on those even though it's 4mm
Dou you have any links for the parts you used?
m2cracing.net/shop/shop.php#!/M2C-3030-KRATON-TALION-OUTCAST-S-SERIES-HARDENED-STEEL-HINGE-PINS/p/478044783/category=136127923
m2cracing.net/shop/shop.php#!/M2C-3706-KRATON-OUTCAST-4S-V2-2-5-A-&-D-BLOCKS/p/586974439/category=138341144
m2cracing.net/shop/shop.php#!/M2C-3798-MOTOR-PLATE-FOR-V2-5-ARRMA-DIFFERENTIALS/p/612634806/category=138341144
m2cracing.net/shop/shop.php#!/M2C-3794-OUTCAST-4S-V2-5-CHASSIS-BRACE/p/620604391/category=138341144
Theirs the pins, retainers, motor mount, and the v2.5 chassis brace
This will work on a mojave 4s as well right?
@@summy4998 absolutely have it done to all my 4s cars and this works on the 3s cars as well
@@RC4us will the vitavon c hubs and spindles work on mojave 4s?
@@summy4998 absolutely it's the only one I have that I don't have them on but they are the same hubs on all the 4s cars... the new steering mod from garagelife rc works too
@@RC4us will the vitavon rear c hubs fit the mojave 4s as well?? Sorry for all the questions
@@summy4998 yep they sure do they easy way to find that stuff out is go on arrma site and plug in part number it will show you all models it fits
V2.5 chassis is completely different to the V2.0 chassis. Haven't seen anyone break one yet on the v2.5.
I actually know a few people but yes this design is a bit better it's more like the Mojave 4s chassis that's the reason m2c redesigned the chassis brace when they made the motor mount....
I’m on chassis number 4 Since release. V2.5. Did this upgrade and it has been rock solid absolutely pushing it to the limits
@@jasoncarroll-eo7ul I appreciate that make sure to hope over on m2c website and let them know I know they love feed back....
Hopefully you check out the other upgrade videos this v2.5 outcast of mine is becoming a stunt machine lol just got a hobbywing max10 g2 combo with the 2400kv motor an it's gonna be amazing lol
Yeah I just got a new Esc for my sons XMAXX on the way , stocker shit the bed yesterday. Slowly building two trucks outcast and XMAXX. Hope to add a third this summer prob a maxx v2
@@jasoncarroll-eo7ul I'm not big in to TRAXXAS but that probably shows lol I'd say get a 4s ARRMA less to worry about faster more stable easier to work on and cheaper
From what I’ve seen guys are still ripping pins out of the chassis instead of breaking arms even with the v2.5 because the arms are still to beefy. Sucks and such an oversight on arrmas part.
I've not had a issue since I started doing this an honestly the issue isn't the v2.5 they have fixed it not them selves but when the v2 came out the pins were to short they barely touched that red retaining block an them big beefy arms an tires would rip out of the retainer allowing the pin to come out of that end an still stuck in chassis snapping the chassis back then I used tlr typhon pins cause they are different then all other 6s cars... they use them adjusting pills in the suspension blocks those are the perfect length you don't need to do anything just put those in but I then learned the 6s pins are a tiny bit longer an that if you make it deeper the 6s pins fit mint well you saw in the video it's just a bonus to use m2c harden pins an the 7075 a & d retainer but it's not needed to fix this issue an the v2.5 don't even really need anything as they now use longer pins hope that helps clear up what I'm doing an thanks for watching
🫡