I got an Kraton V5, in November, and an Notorious V5 today and this is the first I ever heard of this droop business. I have watched over an hours worth of videos of people trying to explain it and how to set it up....(including some from well known companies) and yours is by far the best. Simple and to the point. I was nervous about doing it myself, but not anymore. I have been a traxxas guy for 20+ years and just starting moving into Arrma. Thanks for you video!!!
Thanks buddy I really do appreciate that I’m glad the video was helpful. The droop is definitely important saves those shock ends a lot. Thanks for watching man.
I appreciate that, but yes, I know a lot of the information I put in some of my videos is obvious to people that have been in the hobby but there’s new people every day and I know I wish I had this information when I was first starting
I like your no nonsense approach to maintaining your Arrma 6s bashers, I also use WD-40 and see nothing but benefits. My bashing buddy is always replacing broke stuff because he doesn't use any lubricates a dondes not do his service per manual time frame. Thus he has replace gears, shocks, and differential's as w,ell as wheel bearings. I have only had to replace one wheel bearing in over 100 hours of bashing. I do go over the Arrma after every outing and do a quick check between batterys, double checking for loose fasteners and stabilizers. I will check for shock droop now as well thanks to your video. Great Job
I know a lil late to this one, but not sure if you've had the issue yet. If you've ever broken a wing mount screw in the suspension tower, what I did (besides upgrade to RPM and take the wing off if going to be in the air" is the bottom hex to the wing mount and the body post, I put a longer hex in it and put a secure thread bolt on it and have never had the problem again. And it's not easy to get a broken hex out of the tower. And I've had another wing bist to peices on it and the wing mount and hexes weren't even bent. I only put my wing on to mainly open field runs with little strghit air. Like I said not sure if you have done it yet. Probably have and I missed that video. And the Outcast/Notorious body mounts are the only ones you can do this to.
i don't use water but it's not a bad idea like you said if you use wd 40 . i prefer using my compressor and then wd40 . for a deep washing i disassemble all the parts and clean them one by one but it's very long ! nice vid !
Great tips and tricks maintenance video brother. Good call on those HD rod ends been using them for the longest. The Mojave rod ends is another great option as well.
The reason some people do not like WD-40 to spray on the whole RC is because it will deteriorate rubber and certain plastics. I think it’s ok, but I prefer silicone spray. The one thing I would definitely not spray WD on is the tires, but that my preference. I agree 💯 % do what works for you I always believe in that theory. 👍🏼
Yeah, I would agree with not spraying it on the tires for multiple reasons but so far hitting the normal plastic stuff inside the car I haven’t had any issues with
Isn't in wierd that jus a simple change of bearing can make if feal so new again. Even if your bearing aren't that old to begin with and taken care off. I know its because they're are new, but feels soooo nice.😁 🤜🤛
I take the wheels off to, and spray the car with cleaner and washing it. Dry it with compressor like you do, and finally I spray the hole car with wd40 and I let it dry again and then it’s ready for another bash session. I have about 25-30 bats through my K8 and it still looks brand new
Yeah I’ve had a lot of people asking and I’ve seen on a lot of the Arma Facebook sites and on here asking what droop was. So I figured I was resetting mine so I thought I would go over it.
I dont understand. I have an Arrma Kraton 6s v5 and supposedly where these droop screws are mine is like the bottom of a screw....its a threaded bolt. How are you using a hex to adjust when there is no hex opening on mine. Now if i turn my truck upside down where the chassis plate is then i can see the hex head of the screw....could my droop screws be installed upside down or something?
Yes I have had cars come with them in both directions if they’re on the bottom then you have to adjust them out or you could take them out and flip them around which ever way you would like them to be.
@@BarstoneRC Thanks! How would i get to them from the bottom though? Like i said the chassis plate is covering them. Do i need to take a bunch of screws out of the chassis plate to get to them?
@@BarstoneRC ... Thanks for all your help! I got to the droop screws from underneath like you said by fully compressing the A arms. Actually it is better to have the droop screws upside down because you dont have the rounded bolt part digging into the chassis plate like someone commented on another UA-cam channel. So yeah this way with the droop screws on my Kraton upside down the bolt head is pushing down onto the chassis plate....so my complaining to myself as to why Arrma put the droop screws on my Kraton the wrong way, is actually good.
What is the part# for the HD rod ends you use on the Kraton V4? Are they the same as this 1? Great video. Great info. And I agree with you on the cleaners. Those seem to be the best.
The problem that most people mention when talking about WD-40, is that supposedly it removes grease. I think the people who are always saying this, are the very same people who think people who use WD-40, are literally shooting it inside of parts that have grease. They do not realize that most people who use WD-40 are just simply spray coating the parts lightly to prevent rust. BTW, not sure if you know, but there's a WD-40 Silicone version, that's better for RC cars.
That’s exactly it, I spray everything just so that screws and drive shaft and things don’t rush I don’t use it as a lubricant lol but I’ll check out the silicone version I haven’t used it yet
@@BarstoneRC you should try cleaning without the water hose, compressed air and a brush will remove allot and simple green can clean what dosnt come off.
Do you have a tool kit with that screwdriver you used it with? I'm having trouble finding long small screwdrivers like that for my rc stuff mainly my outcast.
It’s definitely a lot of fun man just be sure to be very careful and properly store and charge your lipo batteries. Make sure they’re in some thing fire proof while in storage or charging
@@BarstoneRC yeah I already had 1 catch on fire on me 😳 must have been a bad battery but I ordered a lipo bag yesterday I feel like I'm doing more research on my batteries then I am my truck 😂
@@BarstoneRC no I have not done that yet thanks for that, I have also heard of putting a small (4mm) peace of fuel line in as a bump stop on shocks your thoughts?
Different manufactures have different placement and the way they set up the car and depending on what hole you use on the shock tower it gives the suspension a different characteristic
Hey brother I don't mean to be a bad news bear but the purple power has got caustic soda in the ingredients it does not play well on metals or electronics in that fact it don't play well on rubber eitherBut I do like the video I'm starting to get into the hobby I'm watching videos for pointers
&, on any new rtr, SATURATE the front & rear ends with wd40 a day before driving! Wd40 adds flexibility TO plastic! I use wd40 to EVERY rtr I buy. Especially if a arms, etc aren't available yet. (I've been doing the wd40 for 35+ years!)
@Bars&tone RC wD-40 is good stuff to remove water...I use PB blaster silicone on my I cleaned whit the compresor too...I like to clean my after every run..
Stop the ESC fan from spinning when you hit it with the air. You're forcing the fan to spin at way higher RPM than the bearing it has is rated for and will kill it significantly faster. Also WD40 is a solvent (it has a lubricant in it so it can penetrate deeper and dissolve dirt and grease) and should not be used for lubrication.
Yeah I know hitting the ESC with air is not the best I try not to do it very hard or very long but I’m wanting to get stuff dried out and I mainly use WD-40 as a water displacement.
I got an Kraton V5, in November, and an Notorious V5 today and this is the first I ever heard of this droop business. I have watched over an hours worth of videos of people trying to explain it and how to set it up....(including some from well known companies) and yours is by far the best. Simple and to the point. I was nervous about doing it myself, but not anymore. I have been a traxxas guy for 20+ years and just starting moving into Arrma. Thanks for you video!!!
Thanks buddy I really do appreciate that I’m glad the video was helpful. The droop is definitely important saves those shock ends a lot. Thanks for watching man.
@@BarstoneRCexactly what he said, first explanation I’ve seen yet. Thanks a lot man, really helps us noobs out here 😂
@G__Mason glad it was helpful, buddy
Thanks man amazing explanation out of all the other vids i saw yours was the easiest to understand thank u so much man!!
Glad it was helpful buddy
This is such a good explanation on maintaining your rc.
Sure some of it was obvious but what is obvious to some might be a revelation to others
I appreciate that, but yes, I know a lot of the information I put in some of my videos is obvious to people that have been in the hobby but there’s new people every day and I know I wish I had this information when I was first starting
Man that was the simplest how to set droop video I’ve seen on youtube thanks man👍
Glad it was helpful buddy thanks
I like your no nonsense approach to maintaining your Arrma 6s bashers, I also use WD-40 and see nothing but benefits. My bashing buddy is always replacing broke stuff because he doesn't use any lubricates a dondes not do his service per manual time frame. Thus he has replace gears, shocks, and differential's as w,ell as wheel bearings. I have only had to replace one wheel bearing in over 100 hours of bashing. I do go over the Arrma after every outing and do a quick check between batterys, double checking for loose fasteners and stabilizers. I will check for shock droop now as well thanks to your video. Great Job
Yeah I don’t think everything or the maintenance Hass to be super complicated all the time and that stuff works great for a lot of different purposes
I know a lil late to this one, but not sure if you've had the issue yet. If you've ever broken a wing mount screw in the suspension tower, what I did (besides upgrade to RPM and take the wing off if going to be in the air" is the bottom hex to the wing mount and the body post, I put a longer hex in it and put a secure thread bolt on it and have never had the problem again. And it's not easy to get a broken hex out of the tower. And I've had another wing bist to peices on it and the wing mount and hexes weren't even bent. I only put my wing on to mainly open field runs with little strghit air. Like I said not sure if you have done it yet. Probably have and I missed that video. And the Outcast/Notorious body mounts are the only ones you can do this to.
Well that’s a great video thank you, and WD does stand for water displacement…
i don't use water but it's not a bad idea like you said if you use wd 40 . i prefer using my compressor and then wd40 . for a deep washing i disassemble all the parts and clean them one by one but it's very long !
nice vid !
Great tips and tricks maintenance video brother. Good call on those HD rod ends been using them for the longest. The Mojave rod ends is another great option as well.
Thanks bud
The reason some people do not like WD-40 to spray on the whole RC is because it will deteriorate rubber and certain plastics. I think it’s ok, but I prefer silicone spray. The one thing I would definitely not spray WD on is the tires, but that my preference. I agree 💯 % do what works for you I always believe in that theory. 👍🏼
Yeah, I would agree with not spraying it on the tires for multiple reasons but so far hitting the normal plastic stuff inside the car I haven’t had any issues with
Solid information my friend! 👍🏻👍🏻
Isn't in wierd that jus a simple change of bearing can make if feal so new again. Even if your bearing aren't that old to begin with and taken care off. I know its because they're are new, but feels soooo nice.😁
🤜🤛
The smallest things and adjustments can make such a large difference on these cars
I take the wheels off to, and spray the car with cleaner and washing it. Dry it with compressor like you do, and finally I spray the hole car with wd40 and I let it dry again and then it’s ready for another bash session. I have about 25-30 bats through my K8 and it still looks brand new
Yeah I like spraying everything down with WD-40 it gets rid of the water that’s left in the wheels and bearings.
DAB of super glue on end of tread on stand offs , stops the bolt loosening up
Nice video brother. 👍 Great info for the new bee out there. 👍 😊
Yeah I’ve had a lot of people asking and I’ve seen on a lot of the Arma Facebook sites and on here asking what droop was. So I figured I was resetting mine so I thought I would go over it.
Good video my man! Droop is important...👍...
Great video! Very informative!
Thanks bud!!
I've been using dry silicone spray.
Diamond intel inside right here 😎 some other folk would have split this into about 4 videos diggin your style🤓
Peace out B’🤗
Thanks buddy.
Will this help prevent dog bone being thrown out? My Notorious throws the left dog bone after 5 minutes of playing in the yard. Very frustrating
Yes, this will help a lot so the arms don’t overextend and they don’t pop out is easy
I dont understand. I have an Arrma Kraton 6s v5 and supposedly where these droop screws are mine is like the bottom of a screw....its a threaded bolt. How are you using a hex to adjust when there is no hex opening on mine. Now if i turn my truck upside down where the chassis plate is then i can see the hex head of the screw....could my droop screws be installed upside down or something?
Yes I have had cars come with them in both directions if they’re on the bottom then you have to adjust them out or you could take them out and flip them around which ever way you would like them to be.
@@BarstoneRC Thanks! How would i get to them from the bottom though? Like i said the chassis plate is covering them. Do i need to take a bunch of screws out of the chassis plate to get to them?
If you fully compress the a arm you can just get a 2 mm Allen wrench on them
@@BarstoneRC ...
Thanks for all your help! I got to the droop screws from underneath like you said by fully compressing the A arms. Actually it is better to have the droop screws upside down because you dont have the rounded bolt part digging into the chassis plate like someone commented on another UA-cam channel. So yeah this way with the droop screws on my Kraton upside down the bolt head is pushing down onto the chassis plate....so my complaining to myself as to why Arrma put the droop screws on my Kraton the wrong way, is actually good.
Yeah I have seen them come both ways. I’m not sure why they do that?
What is the part# for the HD rod ends you use on the Kraton V4? Are they the same as this 1? Great video. Great info. And I agree with you on the cleaners. Those seem to be the best.
Yeah the ones in the video are the same ones I put on all of them they have been holding up really well.
@@BarstoneRC Thanks
great video did not know about shock droop keep them coning will that be a good thing to do to my 4s kraton thanks again
The 6s line has the droop set. The 3s and 4s line don’t have them.
@@BarstoneRC thanks
Nice info - dont want to much droop 😂😂😂👍👍 prefer the RPM Traxxas short rod ends as you get 12 for £8 and they just as tough as the Arrma ones
When you turn the servo on the 2WD Slash, the headlights light up.
The problem that most people mention when talking about WD-40, is that supposedly it removes grease. I think the people who are always saying this, are the very same people who think people who use WD-40, are literally shooting it inside of parts that have grease. They do not realize that most people who use WD-40 are just simply spray coating the parts lightly to prevent rust.
BTW, not sure if you know, but there's a WD-40 Silicone version, that's better for RC cars.
That’s exactly it, I spray everything just so that screws and drive shaft and things don’t rush I don’t use it as a lubricant lol but I’ll check out the silicone version I haven’t used it yet
@@BarstoneRC you should try cleaning without the water hose, compressed air and a brush will remove allot and simple green can clean what dosnt come off.
Wd40 will dry rot all the rubber use a silicone base spray
Do you have a tool kit with that screwdriver you used it with? I'm having trouble finding long small screwdrivers like that for my rc stuff mainly my outcast.
Amazon sells them for $12 dollars.
HRB 4pcs 1.5mm 2.0mm 2.5mm 3.0mm... www.amazon.com/dp/B07QGZW57K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
@@BarstoneRC lifesaver man really appreciate it!! Just getting started in the hobby and im addicted!!
It’s definitely a lot of fun man just be sure to be very careful and properly store and charge your lipo batteries. Make sure they’re in some thing fire proof while in storage or charging
@@BarstoneRC yeah I already had 1 catch on fire on me 😳 must have been a bad battery but I ordered a lipo bag yesterday I feel like I'm doing more research on my batteries then I am my truck 😂
would the droop also let the bone come out of the drive cup as well?
Yes because it lets the a arm extend too far down
@@BarstoneRC ok, I have moved the bump stop out 2 turns on both sides and I still have the left front output shaft pop out on landing
Have you remove the plastic shim washer on the top a arm and the red metal cap on the bottom one yet? If not do that
@@BarstoneRC no I have not done that yet thanks for that, I have also heard of putting a small (4mm) peace of fuel line in as a bump stop on shocks your thoughts?
After removing the top and bottom washer and spacer I haven’t had mine come out again now
I have noticed som shocks are inside and some ar outside what is the deffrencemine are on the inside
Different manufactures have different placement and the way they set up the car and depending on what hole you use on the shock tower it gives the suspension a different characteristic
@@BarstoneRC thanks
@@BarstoneRC in the front or the inside
I’m not sure exactly what you’re asking there’s only one place the shocks can be with the A arms.
@@BarstoneRC like closest toy the bumper or to the front tireslike how yours are in the back the opposite side
Do you think the bearings are needed for just driving on the street and grass?
Well any dirt and moisture that gets into them will eat them up but if you’re not getting them in the mud and water it’s not as big of a deal.
@@BarstoneRC Yep I tend to avoid water, had to get a new receiver in my Rustler because it shorted out.
What happens if the you're generous with the droop and your shocks are more compressed?
You’ll just lose suspension travel. And you’re always putting extra pressure on the seals on the shocks
@@BarstoneRC thanks. I picked up a used exb and for some reason they had the droop set aggressively.
Maybe they were running it in the road. Keeping the hight down on it?
@@lifetakesflight how’s the exb been for you does it have the lsd diffs in it🤔
My differentials in mine have been holding up good
Good stuff
Great stuff 👌🏽 new to the hobby and didn’t know about shock droop 👍🏽 do you still grease bearings after or just wd40?
Any bearing that I can get to without dismantling the car I spray it with WD-40 but anytime I do major maintenance I grease the bearings
Bro you don't take out the electronics the motor and esc ??
Nope lol
Nice vid
Thanks bud
Cool thx
Hey brother I don't mean to be a bad news bear but the purple power has got caustic soda in the ingredients it does not play well on metals or electronics in that fact it don't play well on rubber eitherBut I do like the video I'm starting to get into the hobby I'm watching videos for pointers
Good to know. I’ve been using it for a few years now and I’ve been ok but good to know.
@@BarstoneRC glad to help
&, on any new rtr, SATURATE the front & rear ends with wd40 a day before driving! Wd40 adds flexibility TO plastic!
I use wd40 to EVERY rtr I buy. Especially if a arms, etc aren't available yet. (I've been doing the wd40 for 35+ years!)
I like using it on the cars it’s been working well.
I use PB blaster silicone on my but I remove the electronic 😂😂🤦♂️
Nah why?
@Bars&tone RC what about the receiver do you remove it?
@Bars&tone RC wD-40 is good stuff to remove water...I use PB blaster silicone on my I cleaned whit the compresor too...I like to clean my after every run..
I do t remove anything unless it’s broken
@Bars&tone RC what about the receiver never get water in and acting up?
Stop the ESC fan from spinning when you hit it with the air. You're forcing the fan to spin at way higher RPM than the bearing it has is rated for and will kill it significantly faster. Also WD40 is a solvent (it has a lubricant in it so it can penetrate deeper and dissolve dirt and grease) and should not be used for lubrication.
Yeah I know hitting the ESC with air is not the best I try not to do it very hard or very long but I’m wanting to get stuff dried out and I mainly use WD-40 as a water displacement.
WD40 is not a solvent. Stop that nonsense.
2nd 😂