During the audio-less test pull clip I am 95% sure Adam said: "Linear powerband, simple build, Blitz 003's, Ganadors, gripped up, Ford 9", Garrett G-series turbo"
Adam - "It's faster! Wow, that's half of what this engine can do" Collete - "Adam, the viewers want more 335i content, can you confirm you will work on it soon?" Adam - "Yes, I'd be delighted to."
Just wanna let you know, that a bit of surface cleaning wont get rid of the mold in the headliner. Not even close. You'll still have tons and tons of spores building and releasing into the air of the cabin. If you really want to get rid of it, the headliner either needs to go entirely or at the very least get a heavy clean outside the car, so you can decontaminate the inside at the same time.
From one of the earlier videos it looks like it's running a factory Mazda cooler, so assuming that it's flowing alright it should be fine. Those factory coolers do an outstanding job until they crack, haha.
In Australia we don't mess about with cooling Rotary's.. big aftermarket oil coolers and radiators are some of the first mods we do to handle increased power.
Seriously all you needed was the plastic cap that goes on the ball at the bottom of the shifter. Back in those days Mazda only had 4 transmissions. A rwd manual, a rwd auto, a fwd manual, and a fwd auto. Even the trucks and Miata used the FC's transmission 😂 so the fix is the same on them all! I had this problem in all three of my FCs and all 4 of my B series trucks stupid simple and the dealers sell them for $.87 each 😊
yes ima miata guy, same design with the bushing at the bottom pivot ball, its nylon/ plastic oem so they disintegrate into dust over time. ADAM YOU HAVE NO BOTTOM BUSHING LMAO it should be a 10$ part and you just push it over the pivot ball (bottom of fulcrum)
Hey Adam, IV got a S5 trans. What makes the biggest difference is the cup bushing that holds the ball at the bottom of the shifter. Mazdatrix sell a kit with the tool required 😊
Hi Adam, that spring is for returning the shifter to neutral from the 1st / 2nd gear side. It will only stop the sloppyness when in neutral. There's a bush that sits in the gearbox that the ball of the shifter will sit into, and the shifter ball has a bush ontop. So basically the ball of the shifter once locked in place will have a bush top and bottom
Change the radiator hoses to hard pipes, and put in a single or double pass radiator. Also oil and water temps work hand in hand. A good oil cooler setup will help alot with water temps.
The radiator is fine get a radiator hose with the metal spring in it. The hose had been hot so many times or is so old that it lost the rubberized form and rigidity. It happens on older cars all the time
Yes, exactly this. You need a lower rad hose with a anti-collapse spring in it. Also, it probably wouldn’t hurt to flush the cooling system as the coolant has probably broken down from all the over heats.
Yep, back flush that rad quick with a hose then refill with cleaner and distilled water. Drive 50 miles or so and drain that dirty distilled... replace with new. Distilled water cools 5-7% better than most glycol based coolant as it can hold and pull away heat more efficiently as well as being easier on your pump needing less head pressure to pull through a resistive triple like that EDIT: Did I hear Adam say he has no thermostat so it stays open ? That can def be a problem in itself as the water is moving through the system faster than the heat can be wicked away from the water, especially with very little cool air even getting to the rad with the oil cooler + intercooler stealing it first
I had the same cooling issue with my old car. You mentioned no thermostat. You’re not allowing the coolant to stay in the radiator long enough to get cool. That’s why when you spray water at it it’ll get cold again. Throw a thermostat in it and coolant. The no thermostat and straight water did the same thing to my car. 👍🏻
Could be. Alot of people pull the thermostat down south. I pulled mine on a turbo build and it worked great never had an issue with over heating. Just some issues with getting it to heat up on cold days.
Agree 100%! I had a built SBC and no thermostat caused it to overheat no matter what I done. Swapped a bigger radiator, still overheated. Put a thermostat in it, it stopped overheating. Just like you said, the coolant needs enough time in the radiator to actually cool. The only test he needed to see if it was leaking combustion was the dye test, even the smallest amount of combustion will turn that dye yellow QUICK! That being said, the upper hose expanding and the lower hose collapsing 100% says the radiator is a flow restriction.
This is a common misconception. Faster flow does mean the water doesn't stay in the radiator as long, but also means you're cooling more water in the same amount of time. You can never flow too fast, but you can absolutely flow too slow.
@@jckf you absolutely can follow too fast and too slow, it depends on the coolant and the radiator design etc how noticeable it will be, but too fast will absolutely cause issues in certain situations.- Pop a thermostat in the datto and see what happens, cheap/easy, worth a shot :)
@@jckf so if you run water through a pipe that is a constant 70 degrees for 5 seconds it’ll be the same temperature when exiting the pipe as it would be if you run the water through the same pipe for 10 seconds? Nah it’s not a common misconception, it’s science and common sense 🤣
I'd try a new radiator, ive experienced issues with lower quality radiators. Needs a thermostat as well, helps fight cavitation in the pump. I drill a small hole in thermostat to help get fluid to the back of it if car sits for periods of time as well
So, get a lower radiator hose with a spring in it to prevent the vacuum created by the water pump from sucking the hose shut. Some are molded into the hose, some are simply put inside the hose.
get a lower hose with a spring in it, very common with OEM hoses, you need a thermostat to control the flow/ pressure of the coolant. also you should have some coolant or water wetter mixed in the water to raise the boiling point and to help with heat transfer.
It’s very common for lower radiator hoses to have a spring in it to stop that from happening. It could be that the hose is too soft for the amount of suction it’s under. It’s happened to me multiple times on older cars, hot rods etc. I would put a spring in the lower hose (buy a cheap universal flex hose and pull the spring out of it) and add a thermostat back to the engine and see if that fixes it. That’s worked for us more than once.
If you want to get the headliner really clean try a bathroom cream cleaner, we used to use those for mould all the time as they were cheap and available before there were a million detailing products available. Also great for sun visors.
hey Adam, I used to work fire and flood restoration, and did a lot of mold mitigation back in the day. make sure you get a good antimicrobial (microban) on top of this, or it will come back. even bleach, all it does is dries out the spores, in Florida being hot and moist it will almost guaranteed just come back, worse. good luck man.
Some cars like the Jeep XJ from the factory have springs in their lower coolant hose to prevent the hose from collapsing like that. Consider using a spring or just adding a section of pipe where the hose is collapsing.
I've seen this on a rotary where the previous owner mixed multiple types of coolant that turned into gunky stuff and blocked the water flow inside the engine. Hopefully not the case here.
How good is Adam building Datsun content out of everything this is hands down the most raw and funniest, fd content and the crew all building mad cars is all well and good but this has been great.
@@twodogsyyc6729 If you had any idea about Rotaries you would know that doesn't have an FD water pump on it so it's not a reverse rotation pump. I've never seen a s4 s5 reverse rotation pump made by anyone either. Sure you can fit an FD pump to a s4 s5 engine with a fair bit of stuffing around but why would you bother.
It’s really common for there to be vacuum on the lower hose. A lot of factory hoses have a spiraled steel wire inside it. Common on swaps when people are just piecing random hoses together. I had to add a spring to my lower hose on my buggy and LS swapped jeep…. Also run a thermostat. Often without one the coolant doesn’t spend enough time in the radiator to properly cool. 😊
he can just gut a thermostat and just use the body of it- same thing as an open stat. if the coolant flows thru the radiator and doesn't cool sufficiently- the radiator tubes need to be physically cleaned- rod & repair job.
Such a great vid watching people diagnose a problem and learn new things at the same.time. this really highlights how easy it is to go down a rabbit hole with an issue and spend bulk money on things that don't fix the issue.
*no audio portion final draft* Adam: "Wow kinda fast, that's only half of what this engine can do" Collette: "what did you say?" Adam: "thats only half"
I've had that problem before a lot on old V8s for some reason or another. However, it still seems to me that the radiator is barely flowing given the pressure on the upper rad hose while the lower hose is imploding
I was gonna come say the same thing, you don't actually want crazy flow rates - and if it's building that much pressure in the hose it definitely is pushing a tonne of coolant flow - because the rad can't work efficiently. Not 100% sure, though, since wetting the radiator clearly helps a lot so it *can* cool it, but it's where I'd start
If the rad really is that bad it will idle at high temps not allowing enough cooled water into the engine efficiently , happened on my 1973 spitfire. changed to a happier flowing rad and it fixed it.
Hey bro. Been there. Done that. It’s a cracked plate or blown seal. Get another motor and build it while you enjoy this one. Make sure to stud the next engine. Use rotary aviation seals. Engine will run at 185 after that. Mine ran for years at 10k rpm
I’m dying at the added commentary. “Omg Adam this car is the fastest car you own, I wanna be with you forever because of that pull you just did” 🤣 I was rolling.
Pressure is a restriction to flow, I would definitely be looking at that radiator, including the cap. Worth replacing the hoses too, and you need the thermostat to ensure the coolant has enough time to cool when it does flow through the radiator.
Just install a set of coil wired hoses and you'll be golden (they are just hoses with a coiled wire insert. I don't even know if they still sell them). That used to be an issue on older cars. I remember replacing them on my in-laws 240z years ago, same issue. Nothing to do with the car being a Datsun.
Loving this!!! Working on engines, before the days of computers, was all the 6 senses- 6th was that gut feeling about the other 5 being wrong. Todays tech is amazing! 🙂🙏
Adam: "this thing's kinda fast huh?... whenever you laugh you have to do a pushup" Colette: "what did you say?" Adam: "when you laugh." Colette: "don't say that"
Super here for all of this. I'm biased, having a white 71 240z myself I'm in the process of making roadworthy again. Old cars are the most fun cars. Race cars are great, but you make a lot of trade offs when building road cars like race cars. I think everyone needs the experience of cruising in a mildly modified cool old car with friends. In today's world of barely ever seeing old cars on the road, it's SO much fun.
You’ve got to pump the hose with it running during the sniffer test. Also thermostats are a vital part of the cooling system to slow the coolant flow down in the system.
I'm lucky to have a dad that knows a bunch about cars and has always helped me learn. If I had never had someone show me how to pull a 9 inch, and the videos I could find were 8.8s, I would be very confused as well. That's why you make the big bucks. I would never post a video of me learning shit and messing up on the way. But that's why most of us started watching this channel. Watching someone learn from the ground up is the content people want.
Keep it simple and reliable to have bulk fun Adam. More you tinker with rotaries the more problems they attract= less seat time. Many an owner has flagged a build with an empty wallet going down that path. 😅
The spring is to re-centre the shifter after you let it go, to replace it is a pain, taking the trans out makes it easy, I would wait till you have to pull as it won’t make anything tighter while it’s in gear really 👍
Bleach actually won’t get rid of mold. You really should look in to mold specific products. Ozone the interior at least. You probably have mold spores in the carpet and seats and that is something you don’t want to mess with. Been battling kidney issues due to mold contamination for over a year now
Make sure there is nothing inside the house as well. Had a car that kept overheating after an engine was swapped. Chased it for a while and when I removed the lower rad hose there was a plug for the inlet of the motor. It was put on by the place that sold the motor to protect it and never removed when it was swapped. It was causing similar issues.
This would make a really good fun seat time drift car being so light throwing it into corners handled the donut with ease and I loved the voice over you did for you both during the pulls when the go pro sound gave in so funny and I am sure that was word for word from Colette to 😂😂👌🏼👍🏼
Looks like you having a great time on this build.. we have plenty of these beauts here in south africa.. one day I'll build one.. Keep up the the great content 👏🏻
Another pro tip the factory clutch on these transmissions is so good as are the synchros, that if you lose the master or slave cylinder you can drive the car with easy rev match shifts just remember you are starting in gear and make sure your path is clear. I drove my last B2600 truck with out a slave cylinder for 3 weeks until the new one came in. Yes you can Rev match from neutral to first gear from a dead stop. Alternatively you can shut it off and restart at every stop😂. I drove an FC from Norman Oklahoma to the Dallas Texas burbs with no master and only shut it down when I stopped for gas and snacks. Got home and stole the master off my B2200 then stole the master off my B2000 for the B2200 then replaced the clutch master and slave on the 2000 and sold it. Oh and get a stock FC cooling package you'll be surprised as to how effective they are.
We had similar problems years back, all we did trackside was find a spring the same diameter as the inside of the hose and push it inside. It stopped the hose sucking flat and also stopped the cavitation caused by the water pump. Our actual fault was a faulty radiator core.
13:58 I would use a diagnostic tool like Bosch FSA 500. In my short time as a mechanic, we learned that possible leaks from the combustion chamber into the cooling circuit can be measured with the pollutant broadband sensors. To do this, attach the broadband sensors to the expansion tank and cover it if necessary. Let the engine run and if exhaust gas enters the circuit, the broadband sensors should record it.
Hey Adam! You can quick solve the problem with wire hose. My guess is that the water pump running unrestricted by the thermostat is causing a shit tons of vacuum on the intake side of the pump causing the soft hose to suck in and shut. A wire hose isn't soft like that it has a hard metal coil winding through the rubber which enables it to take some vacuum without imploding like that. It's commonly used in marine engine cooling applications! 👍
1- FD'S and Rx8's have a spring in the bottom rad hose to keep it from collapsing. 2-cavitation is a HUGE issue in rx8 oem water pumps because of the impeller design along with FC. Change the water pump with one of the many aftermarket improved impeller designs along with a reinforced low rad hose (typically with a metal spring inside). Had to put a s2 water pump on my rx8 front cover as I was cavitating hard and overheating with the oem pump
![[柴犬ASMR]曼玉Manyu&小白Bai 毛发护理Spa asmr](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0TsXQ7z2Dh4/mqdefault.jpg)
During the audio-less test pull clip I am 95% sure Adam said:
"Linear powerband, simple build, Blitz 003's, Ganadors, gripped up, Ford 9", Garrett G-series turbo"
Nah he said linear twice but otherwise you nailed it.
haha so true
And a carbon roof
😂
"Griot's Garage, Heatwave, DriftHQ, LZMEUFUGGA"
Adam - "It's faster! Wow, that's half of what this engine can do"
Collete - "Adam, the viewers want more 335i content, can you confirm you will work on it soon?"
Adam - "Yes, I'd be delighted to."
Yes please, I miss the 335i needs to do it right this time
YESSS
We demand it
Please
Collete - "Meh modern BMW's suck balls, make them wait, we should do a 2002 instead"
Adam: “Wow, this drives way better than any of TJs cars!”
Collette: “Even the ones he doesn’t drive?”
Adam: “Especially the RX7 he never drives!”
🥇
lmao this is gold
Just wanna let you know, that a bit of surface cleaning wont get rid of the mold in the headliner. Not even close. You'll still have tons and tons of spores building and releasing into the air of the cabin. If you really want to get rid of it, the headliner either needs to go entirely or at the very least get a heavy clean outside the car, so you can decontaminate the inside at the same time.
Its not a meth lab, calm down
@@r7kelley553 breathing mold spores is really bad for his health..
@@r7kelley553 mold is extremely bad for you bro
He should run his Ozone-machine in there for 24-48 hours. That will kill off any live mold spoors.
@@dustinrecker7376 in fact I’ve done meth and I don’t even wanna try breathing in mold spores 😂
The Datsuns biggest problem is it isn't 500hp yet
Do you see those front tires?
@@Justinhomii its a drag car, theyre supposed to be that thin
@@Justinhomii Just needs to go straight and stop. The turning can happen at lower speeds.
500hp would be too much in the light of a car to actually out it down. 375 and wheelies is what we want.
yea like a 500 or 550 rotary engine it will be soo good and weight stripping from the car it will be soo good and it will be a wheelie car also
After that pull..... LZ - "marry me Collete" Collete - " yes duh, about time" lmao
I say six months and we have a collete proposal!
And after the about time answer
Adam: I have trust issues!
@@scottmoore6131 yeah idk if adam will get married again anytime soon. the person we dont speak about really did him dirty
Adam, don't do it
YOOOO
Best part of the video is definitely when Adam was adlibbing the car ride with Collette. That shit was straight hilarious 🤣 😂
yep, thats the part that prompted me to comment to. that was comedy gold.
as an RX7 guy myself, make sure the oil cooler is big enough and flowing. a good portion of the cooling on a 13b is the oil cooler.
Always always make sure it's cool enough, large radiator, oil coolers, all that!
From one of the earlier videos it looks like it's running a factory Mazda cooler, so assuming that it's flowing alright it should be fine. Those factory coolers do an outstanding job until they crack, haha.
@@bentracy7463 this is true butt like he said at the end of it, I don't think the radiator is getting enough cold air😬
In Australia we don't mess about with cooling Rotary's.. big aftermarket oil coolers and radiators are some of the first mods we do to handle increased power.
@@kotajames6211 no doubt, more cool air can never hurt.
Seriously all you needed was the plastic cap that goes on the ball at the bottom of the shifter. Back in those days Mazda only had 4 transmissions. A rwd manual, a rwd auto, a fwd manual, and a fwd auto. Even the trucks and Miata used the FC's transmission 😂 so the fix is the same on them all! I had this problem in all three of my FCs and all 4 of my B series trucks stupid simple and the dealers sell them for $.87 each 😊
yes ima miata guy, same design with the bushing at the bottom pivot ball, its nylon/ plastic oem so they disintegrate into dust over time. ADAM YOU HAVE NO BOTTOM BUSHING LMAO it should be a 10$ part and you just push it over the pivot ball (bottom of fulcrum)
Thumb up 👌🏼
@@Goodtimesbadluckv2ū
Yeah that was the top bushing. Forgot the tag description.
Thissssss he is missing the tip bushing
Let’s be fair, the Datsun needs a full rip out and rebuild.
And also let’s be fair, she’s definitely worth it.
But then keep it yanky, its 50% of the fun of the car :D
@@thegiantgaming7592 Maybe. Fully spic and span though, it'd be priceless.
And let’s be fair. It’s Adam. He can’t do it the cheap way
Adam: "Holy cow its kinda fast!"
Colette: "Stop granny shifting instead of double clutching like you should be."
Cringe line from cringe movie
Hey Adam, IV got a S5 trans. What makes the biggest difference is the cup bushing that holds the ball at the bottom of the shifter. Mazdatrix sell a kit with the tool required 😊
This ! ^ hopefully he sees this
bump this
dunno if that works on here or it does by likes on comment..? but any way LZ get on that sheiiiit booy! my mans mr kennedy knows whats good
IV got a 1989 S5 down here in Australia, keen for Adam to come down so I can go to the invitational
Hi Adam, that spring is for returning the shifter to neutral from the 1st / 2nd gear side. It will only stop the sloppyness when in neutral. There's a bush that sits in the gearbox that the ball of the shifter will sit into, and the shifter ball has a bush ontop. So basically the ball of the shifter once locked in place will have a bush top and bottom
Yep! The Miata is the same way except for the spring
Change the radiator hoses to hard pipes, and put in a single or double pass radiator. Also oil and water temps work hand in hand. A good oil cooler setup will help alot with water temps.
The radiator is fine get a radiator hose with the metal spring in it. The hose had been hot so many times or is so old that it lost the rubberized form and rigidity. It happens on older cars all the time
THISS , and in my country also you need to clean the insides of the radiator .
This. Easy and cheap to try before you start replacing expensive stuff.
Yes, exactly this. You need a lower rad hose with a anti-collapse spring in it. Also, it probably wouldn’t hurt to flush the cooling system as the coolant has probably broken down from all the over heats.
Yep, back flush that rad quick with a hose then refill with cleaner and distilled water. Drive 50 miles or so and drain that dirty distilled... replace with new. Distilled water cools 5-7% better than most glycol based coolant as it can hold and pull away heat more efficiently as well as being easier on your pump needing less head pressure to pull through a resistive triple like that
EDIT: Did I hear Adam say he has no thermostat so it stays open ? That can def be a problem in itself as the water is moving through the system faster than the heat can be wicked away from the water, especially with very little cool air even getting to the rad with the oil cooler + intercooler stealing it first
no neither nissan nor mazda uses hoses with springs in them- they should know- we tooled them up.
I had the same cooling issue with my old car. You mentioned no thermostat. You’re not allowing the coolant to stay in the radiator long enough to get cool. That’s why when you spray water at it it’ll get cold again. Throw a thermostat in it and coolant. The no thermostat and straight water did the same thing to my car. 👍🏻
Could be. Alot of people pull the thermostat down south. I pulled mine on a turbo build and it worked great never had an issue with over heating. Just some issues with getting it to heat up on cold days.
Agree 100%! I had a built SBC and no thermostat caused it to overheat no matter what I done. Swapped a bigger radiator, still overheated. Put a thermostat in it, it stopped overheating. Just like you said, the coolant needs enough time in the radiator to actually cool. The only test he needed to see if it was leaking combustion was the dye test, even the smallest amount of combustion will turn that dye yellow QUICK!
That being said, the upper hose expanding and the lower hose collapsing 100% says the radiator is a flow restriction.
This is a common misconception. Faster flow does mean the water doesn't stay in the radiator as long, but also means you're cooling more water in the same amount of time. You can never flow too fast, but you can absolutely flow too slow.
@@jckf you absolutely can follow too fast and too slow, it depends on the coolant and the radiator design etc how noticeable it will be, but too fast will absolutely cause issues in certain situations.- Pop a thermostat in the datto and see what happens, cheap/easy, worth a shot :)
@@jckf so if you run water through a pipe that is a constant 70 degrees for 5 seconds it’ll be the same temperature when exiting the pipe as it would be if you run the water through the same pipe for 10 seconds? Nah it’s not a common misconception, it’s science and common sense 🤣
don't think I can get enough rotary datsun content!!
I'd try a new radiator, ive experienced issues with lower quality radiators. Needs a thermostat as well, helps fight cavitation in the pump. I drill a small hole in thermostat to help get fluid to the back of it if car sits for periods of time as well
And braided radiator hoses help aswell
and your water pump/thermostat tip holds valid for a rotary motor cooling system, as well?
Honestly love this back to the roots content of Adam not knowing wtf he's doing 😂
These videos are like watching a Japanese cartoon come to life. Good job you two. Thanks for sharing your adventures. New form of channel. Love it
So, get a lower radiator hose with a spring in it to prevent the vacuum created by the water pump from sucking the hose shut. Some are molded into the hose, some are simply put inside the hose.
10:30 adam- thats fast huh collete- yeaaa
6:51 when Adam said that! I couldn't believe it!
get a lower hose with a spring in it, very common with OEM hoses, you need a thermostat to control the flow/ pressure of the coolant. also you should have some coolant or water wetter mixed in the water to raise the boiling point and to help with heat transfer.
This has been my fav build so far honestly love Adam working on the cars himself it feels like we’re back at the lz garage back in the days 😅
Lol Adam talking over the dash cam footage was hilarious
It’s very common for lower radiator hoses to have a spring in it to stop that from happening. It could be that the hose is too soft for the amount of suction it’s under.
It’s happened to me multiple times on older cars, hot rods etc.
I would put a spring in the lower hose (buy a cheap universal flex hose and pull the spring out of it) and add a thermostat back to the engine and see if that fixes it. That’s worked for us more than once.
"I've been nurturing this motor"
[roll montage of all the launches and drifting in the last video]
If you want to get the headliner really clean try a bathroom cream cleaner, we used to use those for mould all the time as they were cheap and available before there were a million detailing products available. Also great for sun visors.
He should run his Ozone-machine in there for 24-48 hours, That will kill off any live mold spoors.
@@Danger-Dave Yes, but that doesn’t remove the staining !
hey Adam, I used to work fire and flood restoration, and did a lot of mold mitigation back in the day. make sure you get a good antimicrobial (microban) on top of this, or it will come back. even bleach, all it does is dries out the spores, in Florida being hot and moist it will almost guaranteed just come back, worse. good luck man.
Some cars like the Jeep XJ from the factory have springs in their lower coolant hose to prevent the hose from collapsing like that. Consider using a spring or just adding a section of pipe where the hose is collapsing.
I've seen this on a rotary where the previous owner mixed multiple types of coolant that turned into gunky stuff and blocked the water flow inside the engine. Hopefully not the case here.
Your voice over was epic lol you've found your calling. This car is so awesome
We definitely need more of the funny voice overs 😂😂
How good is Adam building Datsun content out of everything this is hands down the most raw and funniest, fd content and the crew all building mad cars is all well and good but this has been great.
I'm learning so much following along with this build.
Change the rad and check to make sure the water pump is turning the proper direction. Good luck I'm sure you'll get it sorted
It's literally impossible for the pump to be spinning the wrong way champ.
@@Gooie69 there are water pumps that spin reverse rotation champ
@@twodogsyyc6729 If you had any idea about Rotaries you would know that doesn't have an FD water pump on it so it's not a reverse rotation pump. I've never seen a s4 s5 reverse rotation pump made by anyone either. Sure you can fit an FD pump to a s4 s5 engine with a fair bit of stuffing around but why would you bother.
It’s really common for there to be vacuum on the lower hose. A lot of factory hoses have a spiraled steel wire inside it. Common on swaps when people are just piecing random hoses together. I had to add a spring to my lower hose on my buggy and LS swapped jeep…. Also run a thermostat. Often without one the coolant doesn’t spend enough time in the radiator to properly cool. 😊
he can just gut a thermostat and just use the body of it- same thing as an open stat. if the coolant flows thru the radiator and doesn't cool sufficiently- the radiator tubes need to be physically cleaned- rod & repair job.
Such a great vid watching people diagnose a problem and learn new things at the same.time. this really highlights how easy it is to go down a rabbit hole with an issue and spend bulk money on things that don't fix the issue.
*no audio portion final draft*
Adam: "Wow kinda fast, that's only half of what this engine can do"
Collette: "what did you say?"
Adam: "thats only half"
Maybe put a thermostat in it? Not having one can cause too much water through the radiator and not give it enough time to cool down.
yes it can an will
I've had that problem before a lot on old V8s for some reason or another. However, it still seems to me that the radiator is barely flowing given the pressure on the upper rad hose while the lower hose is imploding
I was gonna come say the same thing, you don't actually want crazy flow rates - and if it's building that much pressure in the hose it definitely is pushing a tonne of coolant flow - because the rad can't work efficiently.
Not 100% sure, though, since wetting the radiator clearly helps a lot so it *can* cool it, but it's where I'd start
yep very common issue on rotors. they need the restriction
If the rad really is that bad it will idle at high temps not allowing enough cooled water into the engine efficiently , happened on my 1973 spitfire. changed to a happier flowing rad and it fixed it.
Hey bro. Been there. Done that. It’s a cracked plate or blown seal. Get another motor and build it while you enjoy this one. Make sure to stud the next engine. Use rotary aviation seals. Engine will run at 185 after that. Mine ran for years at 10k rpm
I’m dying at the added commentary. “Omg Adam this car is the fastest car you own, I wanna be with you forever because of that pull you just did” 🤣 I was rolling.
Pressure is a restriction to flow, I would definitely be looking at that radiator, including the cap. Worth replacing the hoses too, and you need the thermostat to ensure the coolant has enough time to cool when it does flow through the radiator.
send it to a good radiator shop and let them decide what it needs
Just install a set of coil wired hoses and you'll be golden (they are just hoses with a coiled wire insert. I don't even know if they still sell them). That used to be an issue on older cars. I remember replacing them on my in-laws 240z years ago, same issue. Nothing to do with the car being a Datsun.
I like the videos when you (Adam LZ) are diving in and figuring things out... Great video LZ
Loving this!!! Working on engines, before the days of computers, was all the 6 senses- 6th was that gut feeling about the other 5 being wrong.
Todays tech is amazing! 🙂🙏
Adam: "this thing's kinda fast huh?... whenever you laugh you have to do a pushup"
Colette: "what did you say?"
Adam: "when you laugh."
Colette: "don't say that"
Love your vedios adam just gives me motivation to build cars
I don’t know anything about rotary engines but it sounds like a thermostat or water pump issue.
Super here for all of this. I'm biased, having a white 71 240z myself I'm in the process of making roadworthy again. Old cars are the most fun cars. Race cars are great, but you make a lot of trade offs when building road cars like race cars. I think everyone needs the experience of cruising in a mildly modified cool old car with friends. In today's world of barely ever seeing old cars on the road, it's SO much fun.
You’ve got to pump the hose with it running during the sniffer test. Also thermostats are a vital part of the cooling system to slow the coolant flow down in the system.
Adam definitely said it’s actually feels pretty fast
Yeah I’m gonna need more voiceovers
7:00 preach Adam 🙏🙏 those were some true spoken words
Adams playing the long con with his back being bad but his hose being able to still go rock hard😂😂😂
Adam said: "I should throw Tarmacs on this and daily it"
V mount the intercooler and radiator and you could probably rule out the cores being sandwiched
No room
I'm lucky to have a dad that knows a bunch about cars and has always helped me learn. If I had never had someone show me how to pull a 9 inch, and the videos I could find were 8.8s, I would be very confused as well. That's why you make the big bucks. I would never post a video of me learning shit and messing up on the way. But that's why most of us started watching this channel. Watching someone learn from the ground up is the content people want.
The voiceover was literally amazing and it made me laugh out loud lolol
Adam said: “I should buy a Prius and turn it into a drift missile”
Adam we hear you loud and clear 😂 6:56
9:10 funniest shit ever!!!!! that 2nd shift threw Collette back so hard lmao
I love how mike gets some decision on what clips go in at the end. 10/10 👌
Rev limiter does not equal 2-step. This car is becoming my favorite.
It has an ecu. The 2step is set high because it’s a florida Puerto Rican car.
"the power was so linear!"
Keep it simple and reliable to have bulk fun Adam. More you tinker with rotaries the more problems they attract= less seat time. Many an owner has flagged a build with an empty wallet going down that path. 😅
The spring is to re-centre the shifter after you let it go, to replace it is a pain, taking the trans out makes it easy, I would wait till you have to pull as it won’t make anything tighter while it’s in gear really 👍
Anyone else notice collete has a TATTOO.
i saw that too
Yeah,,, I wonder what LZ thinks of it… never figured she’d ever get one..
Bleach actually won’t get rid of mold. You really should look in to mold specific products. Ozone the interior at least. You probably have mold spores in the carpet and seats and that is something you don’t want to mess with. Been battling kidney issues due to mold contamination for over a year now
Bleach 100% kills black mold, which would stop whatever cant be seen or removed from spreading.
Best LZ video series in a long time
the commentary was by far the best thing ever!!!Very Funny!!
I'm so happy you got the Datsun Definitely going to be following your videos more often🫶🔥
I just love this project... There was a plan around a decade ago to do this same chassy with a K20/b18 or some aluminum straight 6.
I think this is the best video to date, the voice over got me rolling 🤣
Loving this car and the build!!!
Make sure there is nothing inside the house as well. Had a car that kept overheating after an engine was swapped. Chased it for a while and when I removed the lower rad hose there was a plug for the inlet of the motor. It was put on by the place that sold the motor to protect it and never removed when it was swapped. It was causing similar issues.
This would make a really good fun seat time drift car being so light throwing it into corners handled the donut with ease and I loved the voice over you did for you both during the pulls when the go pro sound gave in so funny and I am sure that was word for word from Colette to 😂😂👌🏼👍🏼
The only yt Chanel making cars atmosphericly safe 😂
Looks like you having a great time on this build.. we have plenty of these beauts here in south africa.. one day I'll build one..
Keep up the the great content 👏🏻
Another pro tip the factory clutch on these transmissions is so good as are the synchros, that if you lose the master or slave cylinder you can drive the car with easy rev match shifts just remember you are starting in gear and make sure your path is clear. I drove my last B2600 truck with out a slave cylinder for 3 weeks until the new one came in. Yes you can Rev match from neutral to first gear from a dead stop. Alternatively you can shut it off and restart at every stop😂. I drove an FC from Norman Oklahoma to the Dallas Texas burbs with no master and only shut it down when I stopped for gas and snacks. Got home and stole the master off my B2200 then stole the master off my B2000 for the B2200 then replaced the clutch master and slave on the 2000 and sold it. Oh and get a stock FC cooling package you'll be surprised as to how effective they are.
Lol!! Adam, youre such a dag, but i love it. The fact you dont take yourself too seriously at this point is great man, keep it up.
I love the real audio that was not ad-lib'd at 9:30 and the real life reaction after such a pull.
Adam LZ Great Video I'm sorry to hear that your Datsun 1200s Radiator doesn't work and I hope it gets replaced or fixed soon
We had similar problems years back, all we did trackside was find a spring the same diameter as the inside of the hose and push it inside. It stopped the hose sucking flat and also stopped the cavitation caused by the water pump. Our actual fault was a faulty radiator core.
A: "This is a really fast car!" C: "What did you say?" - love this Datsun content. Good fun!
Yoooooo the voice over was immaculate! For real though, hella funny!
13:58 I would use a diagnostic tool like Bosch FSA 500. In my short time as a mechanic, we learned that possible leaks from the combustion chamber into the cooling circuit can be measured with the pollutant broadband sensors.
To do this, attach the broadband sensors to the expansion tank and cover it if necessary. Let the engine run and if exhaust gas enters the circuit, the broadband sensors should record it.
12:11 “baby flames” i beg your pardon 😂
Shifter needs a little white cup bushing that goes on the ball at the bottom of the shifter. I think LRB Speed makes them out of delrin.
The voiceover is hilarious, great job 😂
first video i've actually enjoyed in a while
Don’t be sorry for being a noob!! Don’t ever change that’s why we love you❤
Keep the content comin. Cant wait to see you live in Utah 🤙🏼
Adams voiceover of the gopro clip was hilarious, I loved it hahahaha
I love the no audio part. Had me cracking up. Reminds me of the old show MXC where it was all voice overs that seemed wrong.
Hey Adam! You can quick solve the problem with wire hose. My guess is that the water pump running unrestricted by the thermostat is causing a shit tons of vacuum on the intake side of the pump causing the soft hose to suck in and shut. A wire hose isn't soft like that it has a hard metal coil winding through the rubber which enables it to take some vacuum without imploding like that. It's commonly used in marine engine cooling applications! 👍
This is actually one of the coolest cars I've seen, I'm in love with it
"Did you see that frog? I think it had abs! Like jacked with abs!"
"Bombastic"
1- FD'S and Rx8's have a spring in the bottom rad hose to keep it from collapsing.
2-cavitation is a HUGE issue in rx8 oem water pumps because of the impeller design along with FC.
Change the water pump with one of the many aftermarket improved impeller designs along with a reinforced low rad hose (typically with a metal spring inside). Had to put a s2 water pump on my rx8 front cover as I was cavitating hard and overheating with the oem pump