some detail about how the 80-20 is attached to the floor would be helpful. There is a brief view of the frame that looks like it was attached directly to the cargo van floor. Did you then build the finish floor around it?
Plus-nuts and Riv-nuts are excellent in van builds! But getting them snugged correctly is tricky. Too tight and you can damage the threads. Too loose and you run the risk of the fastener spinning in place. Best fix for either one is to add a small drop of superglue to the outside facing flange. Capillary action will pull the glue around the rim and ensure solid adhesion, keeping it from spinning. This also works if you have a cross-threaded bolt that won't come free of the nut without spinning. Love what you've done so far! Looking forward to the next video.
Hi, I’ve been considering the rivnut placement and locating in material that overlay the rivnuts. I think the use of a laser level device might help. Adjust the level until it bisects the rivnut, secure the level, overlay the material then mark it for drilling. It’s all theory of course as I haven’t tried it in practice 🤓.
I would like to know if you use something to isolate the 8020 from the van frame as a thermal break? A piece of rubber, a piece of plastic, something? Also, the aluminum is anodized, so for grounding purposes, do you run a wire to some place on the 8020 where you've removed the coating to make sure the aluminum conducts? Thank you!
Hey, I bought some 1.5" extruded aluminum to test and its way heavier than I imagined! I might switch to a smaller size but I'm not sure what I'm giving up
Hello Drew! I am not the video creator, but just someone who has been working with T-Frame aluminum extrusion. The answer to what you are giving up is a complicated question. When you think about 1 inch vs 1.5 inch the biggest difference is in horizontal tensile strength and torque strength. There are some differences in how many attachment methods exist as well. 10-Series (1 Inch) T-Frame is impressively strong. It should handle most structural tasks you give it with ease. An 82" 10-Series bar can hold me doing chin ups in the middle of it with negligible bowing. This means that my queen bed frame made out of 4 82" 10-series extrusions is overkill. And overkill is not necessarily a bad thing. But as you aware from your comment, weight is a big issue in a van conversion. 15-Series (1.5 inch) is ~ 180% stronger than 10-series in foot tensile strength. This can be used for high stress parts (walkable roof rack / solar) but even for those applications the failure points will probably bee the mounting points on the solar, roof, or parts other than the T-Frame itself. Your best bet is to USE YOUR JUDGEMENT. Play with the materials. Think about the use case for their application. You can do it!
Curious. Rather than attach the 80/20 with L-brackets, why not drill a hole through the 80/20? If countersunk, you could still probably pass T-nuts through the channel of the 80/20.
Couldn’t I use rivnuts to attach L tracks throughout the van which would enable me to attach my 80/20 cabinet to the L track? In essence making it modular, enabling me to move cabinets around.
Thanks for these videos. I'm wondering if the 20mm series would be strong enough to build upper cabinets with, or possibly the kitchen cabinets? Just thinking the upper cabinets won't have to hold too much weight.
Question: (and I'm sure I'll find the answer on 8020.net) but my cargo trailer is aluminum-framed, not steel. So dissimilar metals causing galvanic corrosion is a MAJOR concern for me. Any thoughts on proper fastening into aluminum structure? Excellent video BTW!
Thanks! I used a thermal break x 2 mass vinyl and lixard skin so the 8020 is not touching the sheet metal.....but I not an expert on galvanic corrosion but I figured that should help me.
Im doing kinda of the same build and Im using controlled dynamics products because its one tool and its super strong. I ordered 8020 stuff but it wasnt strong and there was alot of movement.
1) Before putting the ceiling up, install the rivnuts wherever the cabinets will be fastened. This needs to be precise. 2) Insert a bolt with the head cut off and sharpened to a point. 3) Hold the panel in place. 4) Give it a whack with a hammer so you can see the indentation of the bolt on the backside of the wood. 5) Drill a hole through the panel. 6) Cover one side of the panel with marine vinyl. 7) Cut a small hole in the fabric where the bold will go through the insert. Hope that helps!
@@scottadamson6116 Thanks for the explanation Scott! I saw someone on another channel show some kind of bolt that has a point on it.. basically your idea. Thanks!
Any questions about using Extruded Aluminum in your van??? Let me know below 👇
na but wher i get that dope ass hat though? haha thanks for the information bro!
some detail about how the 80-20 is attached to the floor would be helpful. There is a brief view of the frame that looks like it was attached directly to the cargo van floor. Did you then build the finish floor around it?
You said it's hard to find the rivnut in the ceiling, how did you actually do it? Did you measure from reference points you knew for sure?
I would also like know if there are any tips/tricks to locating rivnuts behind panels.
Plus-nuts and Riv-nuts are excellent in van builds! But getting them snugged correctly is tricky. Too tight and you can damage the threads. Too loose and you run the risk of the fastener spinning in place. Best fix for either one is to add a small drop of superglue to the outside facing flange. Capillary action will pull the glue around the rim and ensure solid adhesion, keeping it from spinning. This also works if you have a cross-threaded bolt that won't come free of the nut without spinning.
Love what you've done so far! Looking forward to the next video.
Hi, I’ve been considering the rivnut placement and locating in material that overlay the rivnuts. I think the use of a laser level device might help. Adjust the level until it bisects the rivnut, secure the level, overlay the material then mark it for drilling. It’s all theory of course as I haven’t tried it in practice 🤓.
Yeah good idea.
I would like to know if you use something to isolate the 8020 from the van frame as a thermal break? A piece of rubber, a piece of plastic, something? Also, the aluminum is anodized, so for grounding purposes, do you run a wire to some place on the 8020 where you've removed the coating to make sure the aluminum conducts? Thank you!
What exact,corner fasteners? Anchor?
Did you purchase the alum through amazon
How do you attach 80/20 to the van floor?
the more video you make ,the more we will watch and learn .thanks for taking the time to do them .
Hey, I bought some 1.5" extruded aluminum to test and its way heavier than I imagined! I might switch to a smaller size but I'm not sure what I'm giving up
Hello Drew!
I am not the video creator, but just someone who has been working with T-Frame aluminum extrusion.
The answer to what you are giving up is a complicated question. When you think about 1 inch vs 1.5 inch the biggest difference is in horizontal tensile strength and torque strength. There are some differences in how many attachment methods exist as well.
10-Series (1 Inch) T-Frame is impressively strong. It should handle most structural tasks you give it with ease. An 82" 10-Series bar can hold me doing chin ups in the middle of it with negligible bowing. This means that my queen bed frame made out of 4 82" 10-series extrusions is overkill. And overkill is not necessarily a bad thing. But as you aware from your comment, weight is a big issue in a van conversion.
15-Series (1.5 inch) is ~ 180% stronger than 10-series in foot tensile strength. This can be used for high stress parts (walkable roof rack / solar) but even for those applications the failure points will probably bee the mounting points on the solar, roof, or parts other than the T-Frame itself.
Your best bet is to USE YOUR JUDGEMENT. Play with the materials. Think about the use case for their application. You can do it!
@@shadradson Hey thank you! That helped me a lot
Curious. Rather than attach the 80/20 with L-brackets, why not drill a hole through the 80/20? If countersunk, you could still probably pass T-nuts through the channel of the 80/20.
Couldn’t I use rivnuts to attach L tracks throughout the van which would enable me to attach my 80/20 cabinet to the L track? In essence making it modular, enabling me to move cabinets around.
Thanks for these videos.
I'm wondering if the 20mm series would be strong enough to build upper cabinets with, or possibly the kitchen cabinets? Just thinking the upper cabinets won't have to hold too much weight.
How do you ensure a vapour barrier with direct frame attachment?
What do you use as a "thermal barrier"? :)
Question: (and I'm sure I'll find the answer on 8020.net) but my cargo trailer is aluminum-framed, not steel. So dissimilar metals causing galvanic corrosion is a MAJOR concern for me. Any thoughts on proper fastening into aluminum structure? Excellent video BTW!
Thanks! I used a thermal break x 2 mass vinyl and lixard skin so the 8020 is not touching the sheet metal.....but I not an expert on galvanic corrosion but I figured that should help me.
How did you secure the Aluminum Extrusions to the floors? Especially the front of the cabinets where there are no tie-downs/drings to secure too?
I have the same question, and if you have used rivnuts how did you watertighten them?
Certainly a departure from wood. UA-camr Humble Road customizes vans using almost entirely 8020 aluminum and it is very very solid.
@@GOLDVIOLINbowofdeath I see your point.
I have only heard pros about 8020 so I am seriously considering it for my future build!
Just remember the heat conductivity of aluminium thing. Have to insulate to avoid heat transfer of loss into van
More great stuff
Thanks for watching!
Im doing kinda of the same build and Im using controlled dynamics products because its one tool and its super strong. I ordered 8020 stuff but it wasnt strong and there was alot of movement.
what's the best place/site you've found for ordering extruded aluminum (and the fittings) for Canadians?
I have a local supplier, but you can try i think its Rocky Mountain MOtion Control ships all over Canada.
But how did you find that riv nut through the Marine ceiling. Measurement triangulation? Stud finder?
1) Before putting the ceiling up, install the rivnuts wherever the cabinets will be fastened. This needs to be precise.
2) Insert a bolt with the head cut off and sharpened to a point.
3) Hold the panel in place.
4) Give it a whack with a hammer so you can see the indentation of the bolt on the backside of the wood.
5) Drill a hole through the panel.
6) Cover one side of the panel with marine vinyl.
7) Cut a small hole in the fabric where the bold will go through the insert.
Hope that helps!
@@scottadamson6116 Thanks for the explanation Scott! I saw someone on another channel show some kind of bolt that has a point on it.. basically your idea.
Thanks!
Cool roof liner!