Installing the Edelbrock RPM Air Gap Intake Manifold
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- Опубліковано 26 сер 2024
- Check out my new website for parts and merch that I am selling - krusebuilt.com/
Edelbrock RPM Air Gap Intake Manifold - part number 7521 - Amazon Link: amzn.to/3kSC7xR
Felpro Thermostat Housing Gasket - part number 35067 - Amazon Link: amzn.to/3IZv6DE
Ford Small Block Intake Manifold Gaskets -
The car is a 1966 Mustang Fastback with a 347 Stroker and T5 transmission.
Shot with GoPro Hero 9 with the Media Mod, edited on Davinci Resolve 17.
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Can't get over how great that engine looks in that bay! Nice work Andy
Thanks 👍
For the distributor, when removing, the rotor turns a few degrees counterclockwise. I mark that position on the distributor before pulling out the distributor. When installing, align the rotor with this mark and the distributor falls in nicely.
Great video as usual.
That's a good idea. :)
I wish we were neighbors, it would be like having a real knowledgeable little brother helping you out from time to time.
That's what the videos are for, internet neighbors. :)
Correct
I love that Mustang! My first car was a 65’ my Dad and I built. I’m about to retire again and I’m scouting for a 65-66 convertible. I like what you did with the guide bolts. I did the same thing with sections of all thread to keep from sliding around. My only tip is when you use gasket seal instead of the front and rear gaskets is to put a thin bead on the intake itself, then the block and wait about ten minutes so it becomes tacky. Keep building on it, I’m loving the videos.
Thanks for the heads up. :)
I have the same exact setup on my ‘66. I’m running a 1/2” phenolic spacer with a 3” tall air cleaner on a stock hood w/o clearance issues. 👌🏽
Yeah, there's lots of combos to make this stuff work, it's great. :)
It runs better without the spacer. It’s already up there in height. How much more should a carb sit on top of a already air cooled aluminum intake?
Hi Andy. I am getting people to your channel as best I can. Great content. Thanks 👍
Much appreciated!!
Hard to believe that your almost at 10k! Great vids as always, and love that intro!
Thanks a ton! I keep telling myself that 10k is just a number, but then I laugh and get excited. :)
I'd love to see the dyno results comparing the Performer to the Air Gap. There's very little info on stroker motors paired with stock/Performer intakes for those that have extremely tight hood clearances. I totally understand that the low-rise stock-style intakes hinder air flow, but some people don't have much of a choice!
Thanks for vids Andy, they're informative and entertaining for us car nerds.
Dyno results on any of these mods would be nice to have. The problem I have is the info out there is always for a different engine, at a different elevation, with different fuel, and additional mods. I just need to buy a dyno and go from there. :)
I had a feeling you were going to go that route when you got the new engine. You'll get a wider RPM band for sure.
Yeah, I figured it was going to happen eventually, just not this soon. I was able to get a good deal on this unit from a guy in Florida, so it falls under the "make it happen!" category. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel awesome
According to dyno results, the Air Gap is worth 3-4 HP over the Performer RPM. But who really knows for sure. lol
@@robertclymer6948 yeah the RPM Preformer is a slight difference from the Air Gap, but Air Gap vs the regular non RPM Preformer intake is a noticable gain. I love my RPM it was a big difference past 5200 compared to my old Preformer. Andy's 347 will scream past 5500 now.
Build is coming along nicely Andy
Thank you!!
Nice job Andy....Weather is improving..Over 60 on the West side today and better tomorrow. The lower profile filter will restrict air flow to some degree. It may be a toss up.
Yeah, the weather is wanting to be better here.
As long as the total filter area is not smaller than the area above the primary and secondary throttle plates, a thin filter works fine. :)
Great video. I'm going to tell you my experience with small block ford's. With this type of build. A custom cam for your build will almost always be a better driving experience. More usable power with higher power. A distributor that has been curved to match your build will improve power everywhere. A better carburetor will improve power everywhere.
These three things will be huge power and drive ability increases.
A custom cam will almost always be better on valve train.
But if you keep your cam. The distributor curve and a better carb will still improve power everywhere.
By quite a bit.
By no means am I putting down your build. You have a great build, I would be very happy calling it mine.
I'm just sharing my experiences.
With my own builds over the years.
Thanks for the heads up.
Seeing such a clean engine makes me jealous!
If you decide to remove the phenolic spacer, make sure to check clearance on the carburetor movement points. I wasn't able to run my Holley without a spacer. My choke bracket was making contact.
Thanks! I'm trying to keep it clean as I go, but I still have some work to do.
I ended up pulling the spacer, everything clears, so far so good. :)
I have the same intake manifold. Had a leak when filling the engine with coolant and it came out from the manifold. Realized the gasket wasn’t properly sealed. Followed your video on how to replace and all went fine except my bolts wont stay torqued. I ordered some new ARP bolts that hopefully will fix this issue! Awesome video!
Yeah, not sealing those crossover ports for the coolant bit me on a previous project. Not sure why your bolts won't stay torqued, the only thing I can think of is maybe there's some gunk or something down inside the threads? :)
@@AndyKruseChannel yes, i made sure to lay a good bead on those crossovers, overall im happy with my install. My next project will be a holley 650cfm carb. I believe i have a edelbrock 450cfm as of now. Im sure I’ll need the upgrade.
I have air gap intake on on my 289, 1/2" spacer, drop air cleaner base and standard hi-po air cleaner with k&n filter. Carb is Edelbrock avs2. That setup fits nicely under stock hood without scoop. You probable have to use lower air cleaner and spacer.
I may change the air cleaner down the road, but for now just removing the phenolic spacer was good enough. :)
Any info on losing HP when using a drop base air filter?
The way you work on the engine now you can just tell that's your baby 😜 lol but nice upgrade thanks for the informative entertaining video as always 👍 the cars come a long way I'm happy for you!
Thank you!
send it down to the tri cities, no snow, been pretty warm lately. and ill drive it for you for no charge hahaha
Haha, drove it today, the weather is finally giving me a break. :)
Very nice upgrade Andy. Now that you have the RPM Air Gap, maybe you can lose the phenolic spacer for some room? Also maybe a lower profile filter, but with a top breather. Edelbrock makes a nice one, and it comes in blue. Just sayin’!
Thanks!
Yeah, I have left that spacer off, it's been good since so I'll just leave it off. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Better to take off the spacer than to compromise on the height (not location, but physical measurement) of the air cleaner, that significantly impacts horsepower because you lose air cleaner surface area!
Nice upgrade cheers.
Thanks 👍
excellent
Thanks.
I have the FordRacing crate 302 with the e-cam and the GT-40 heads in my 78 F100. I’m basically going to the 1983-85 Ford 302 HO aluminum 4 barrel intake manifold with rear water jackets. Maybe it will better at lower rpm. Don’t care for the higher rpm
That's going to be great, it'll be a nice upgrade over stock. :)
Hi Andy! Great Video. How long does the black gasket maker have to set up before torqueing it down? And, with the Air Gap, you probably wont need the Phenolic spacer like you stated early on. Plenty of air flow to keep the carb cool I am thinking. Thanks for sharing. Cheers from Motown/Dearborn.
my thoughts exactly on the spacer
Some say within an hour or two for that gasket maker, but this is coming from a friend who was a mechanic back in the '80s, so I don't know if they did that just to get the cars to move through the shop or if it's really something that can be applied and go.
That spacer is nice because it makes more room below the carb for the heater hoses and stuff, but it's been fine since I installed it, so I guess I'll leave it off. :)
I really like the air gap manifold, it really pulls at higher RPM. The only downside I found (except hood clearance) is it does take noticeably longer for the car to warm up in the morning. It's a real dog for a good 10 minuets in cold weather, or what passes for cold weather in Sacramento. Not as bad in summer but still noticeable. What's that white stuff in your driveway?🤣
You're the second person to point that out, which is good because I noticed the same thing when the car first gets going. We can force it to warm up, do 6500 rpm drag pulls down my street, my neighbors would love that. :)
I'm so done with the snow, we've had it for almost 5 months now, it doesn't usually stick around this long.
I wonder if that gasket maker is going to be thick enough to keep the rest of the gasket from sealing. I guess it depends on how much crush is build into the gasket. I got one of these intakes just because I didn't have a computer for my EFI setup and have a few spare carbs.
If it did, I would know by now, this video was made almost a year ago. :)
Don't understandhow sealer on bottom only doesn't leak creats a different thickness in that area.
Me neither, but it works. :)
Good stuff
Thanks for the visit :)
Great videos, they have helped me complete so many different things that I needed to do to my 66. How long did it take you to replace your manifold? Was it just a few hours? Thanks
Thanks! It's always great to here my videos are providing some value to others in this hobby.
A few hours is a safe bet. It's hard to tell because I always have to mess with the camera and make sure I know what I want to say. But a good chunk of time will be spent cleaning/prepping the surface for your new gaskets and manifold. I don't recommend shorting this section, everything needs to be clean and properly prepped to install the new parts. Everything else is just the disassembly/assembly parts, which goes fairly quickly and is sort of fun. :)
what is the 347 stroker brand? is it a 8 ounce? did they have to balance the strokerkit? i'm having engine vibrations after putting a scat stroker in my block
My build is a custom build (by a local engine builder) and he used several different brands for the various components to make my 347. My setup has a 28oz imbalance, which goes with the 28oz harmonic balancer and Flywheel I have. Yes, they balanced the internals before finishing the assembly.
If you're having vibrations, it is likely that your flywheel does not match your internals close enough that it's causing the vibrations. So on this end, I don't think I'm going to be much help to you. :)
Great video as always. I always learn so much. Was the block a roller or flat tappet to start with? I have a flat tappet 302 now, that I’m looking to do stroke to a 347 like yours but I’d like to convert to a roller cam.
Thanks!
Block was already a roller, and in the end it was cheaper to buy that block from my Engine Builder than to take my 289 and convert it over. :)
Thank you. Keep it up
Nice vid Andy! That's the Mr. Gasket manifold gasket right? I've got to do this same task and this vid will help me out greatly with my 306 crate engine. Also, how do you like that distributor?
Thanks!
Permatex Ultra Black Gasket Maker is what I used. The distro is fine, I wish the cap fit a bit more snuggly, it seems like there may be a 1 degree wiggle worth of timing if the cap gets bumped. Not enough to ruin my day, but I imagine I'll get an upgraded unit some day. :)
not in a hurry... probably need to change the oil with the coolant you dropped down the distributor opening....
That video is coming. :)
I reused my water next gasket no issue but it was a better solid gasket not paper like you have
ok
That engine and bay are absolutely gorgeous, great build. Do you think you’ll go EFI eventually?
I'd like to do ITBs some day, but for now I'm enjoying the challenge of the Carb. :)
Did you change the oil after spilling Antifreeze into the oil pan? Oil is cheaper than a new motor
Yes
@@AndyKruseChannel 👍🏻
Love the videos Andy! What are you going to do with that performer manifold?
Probably going to slap it back on that 289 I pulled from this car. I can't decide if I should have it built for another project (that I don't even have, so who knows) or just sell the block and put that money towards this car. :)
@Andy Kruse I can't tell you what to do, but I'm at the point where my expendable income goes into my 65. If you decide to sell that performer intake, let me know. Mine is more of a stock build and it would fit perfectly for what I've got going.
I noticed you don’t have the ford steal me junction (solenoid) on the fender. What did you have to do to delete it since I’d like to delete mine. Hate all those wires connected to it!
I still have it, I moved it to the other side of the passenger shock tower, on the fender apron. Every once in a while you can see it in my videos. I did tuck the wires a bit in one of my videos I made while I was waiting for my 347 (last winter), I talk about it there. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thanks! I’m about to get my car out of body shop jail since it’s not getting worked on and start doing some of the same upgrades as you so watching all your videos now! Thanks!
Hi Andy. Love your channel. How many hours should it take a qualified mechanic to do an intake/carb swap on a 302?
This can be done in one hour, but likely two. I suspect if any time is spent beyond just unbolting and bolting in parts, it's cleaning the gasket surfaces on the heads. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thank you!
Hey man so I’m going through the exact same process as this but the issues I’m running into is how I would run my heater lines, on my stock manifold I have the heater line running from the top of the thermostat housing, when putting in the new manifold do I follow how you have yours set up with the heater line coming from the intake?
Yes. There’s a port on the water pump that goes to your thermostat housing bypass, and a port in your water pump that goes to your heater core. There would also be a hose that goes from your intake manifold to the heater core. Some people bypassed their heater by taking the heater hose from the intake and routing it directly to the water pump.
Would there be any change in reliability and performance if I ran it directly to the water pump, or ran it from the manifold?
@@1970STANGCOUPE No reliability or performance impact. Lots of people bypass their heater cores, not only in southern states, but all people like me who only drive the car in fair weather. :)
Great vidieo how do you like the new power plant? Have you abused those rear tires yet?😁
New power plant is great, big improvement over the worn out 289 I had in there. :)
Hi do you know the length of the intake bolts for the air gap thanks
I do not recall the length, but I used the ARP Intake Bolt Kit, part number 154-2101. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel ok thank you
When I installed my air gap the only thing I noticed was a significant warm up time, the car runs like absolute dog shit for the first 15 minutes or so, totally undrivable until it's completely up to temp.
I've noticed that too, but I was blaming it on not having the carb tuned for my setup, maybe it's the intake like you said. :)
I might be interested in picking up the seat extensions for the front seats, do you sell for local pickup?
Sorry brotha, my website isn't really setup for that. :)
Wish edelbrock gave some love to the i6 🥲 would love to do an edelbrock intake on the thing
Give them a call, see what they say. 🙂
You figure out that air cleaner ?
Yeah, this video is old. :)
Also curious do u have a later block that has the bosses for the lifter hold down? I opted for the more costly link bar lifters on current build. Didn't want holes in the block
Sorry Boss, I don't know on that. The block was one that my Engine Builder had at the shop, sold it to me "cheap". :)
Yes it does. You can see the dog bones and spider lifter hold down when he removes the intake.
@@pauls7751 good observation
@@Donny.C.wlWilliams in the mid 1980's Ford introduced the roller camshaft in its 302/5.0 engines. The blocks came machined from the factory to accommodate the hardware required to keep the lifters straight (aka dog bones) and to hold the dog bones in place (aka spider).
@@pauls7751 thanks
Considered going coil overs in the front and removing the shock towers?
Where would the top of the coilover attach to? Where would the upper control attach to?
I see what you're thinking though, I'd like to get rid of the towers, but it'll have to be done with a new front end, and I don't have the cheddar for that. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel sorry. Meant rack and pinion
Tried a 1" carb spacer yet?
Yes, and for my current setup I had to go down to a 1/2” spacer so the air cleaner would fit perfectly in the scoop on the hood. 🙂
There’s probably nowhere in the instruction that said, please turn the petcock on the radiator and drain your radiator fluid into a big dish that would be helpful
It's probably in super fine print, last page, in the corner. :)
Nice video! I have a question for you. Im getting ready to break in my new hydraulic flat tappet cam and have to set #1 to TDC. Initially i was using the crank bolt to turn it and it would turn with relative ease. It’s gotten to the point where it’s gotten really hard to hand crank using the crank bolt. I’ve primed the oil pump but can’t get it to budge. What could be the reason as to why? Any fix for this??
Were you able to completely turn the motor over a few times before, or was it easy to turn a little but then it got hard to turn? With the plugs in place, you're building compression the firing cylinders and it's difficult to turn the motor over by hand with the spark plugs in. If you remove a few plugs then it should be easier to turn over. It the motor straight up won't turn over with a big socket and wrench on the crank bolt, you have a bigger issue.
@@AndyKruseChannel i could then it over before but not anymore. There are no spark plugs in it. I have the trans attached but other than that not sure what could be keeping it stuck
@@jovanistreety6565 make sure cam timing and or may be you have to much lift and valve is hitting pistons. If you can’t turn over with plugs out don’t force it .
Silly question, but did you make sure the trans is in neutral while trying to turn the motor over?
@@AndyKruseChannel i tried it in neutral, nothing :/
Or.....shaker hood scoop?
Yeah, lots of options out there. :)
What are you doing with your old intake? Is it for sale?
Probably going to slap it back on that 289 I pulled from this car. I can't decide if I should have it built for another project (that I don't even have, so who knows) or just sell the block and put that money towards this car. :)
Don't forget to make a video when you get on it,😏
On it! :)
Do you run conventional or synthetic oil?
It's a synthetic blend for diesel engines, Shell Rotella T4 15W-40. It's not what I would have chosen if I was asked, but this is what my Engine Builder told me to use, so...... :)
have you ever port matched?
No, but if I'm looking to get that little bit extra HP out of this motor, I know I'll have to do that. :)
Get them miles in, then you can do that electric power steering. :-)
The sooner I get everything else done on the car, the sooner I can put that electric steering in. 😆