Good work! A question and a suggestion: The 'main' blower motor out under the hood sounded a bit too slow when you switched it into the hi position. Could your grampa have traded out that motor for a 12 volt version? Suggestion: to get more devices powered on safely you can add a second ballast resistor and hot wire directly from the battery(thru a fuse at the battery of course!)if you need to. That would lessen the load on your 'main' resistor. P= EI power in watts equals volts multiplied by amps the device draws. You know the volts:12 (actually 13.8), you can measure the current draw by placing a d.c. ammeter in the line. Multiply the meter amp current reading by the volts, 12, and that gives you roughly the power consumed in watts. That will tell you roughly how big a wattage resistor you need to supply the amp load without overheating. Hope this helps. 😊
I don't believe my Grandfather switched out the motor, so it should be the original 6 volt. I'm going to have to get more ballast resistors soon to finish all of the 6 volt wiring, so I'll probably just wire it to its own resistor.
@@jonersmotors Yep. It was just a thought that came up in my feeble brain. Those cars were a lot newer when I was your age 😂. I think the next year in '57(or maybe 58 ? I may be wrong about the exact date, cant remember.) Dodge went all 12 volts. But most of the hardware, like the heater duct, etc., stayed the same on some of the models, only the motor changed. Have fun!
You would think after the 1st time knowing there's no light under that dash that you'd get a light to shine up under there for the next time you show us under the dash, but no, you keep doing the same thing and expecting a different result, lol.
I enjoy watching you figure this stuff out. Maybe get a tripod and show more of the work and the test drives? Thanks!
Good work! A question and a suggestion: The 'main' blower motor out under the hood sounded a bit too slow when you switched it into the hi position. Could your grampa have traded out that motor for a 12 volt version? Suggestion: to get more devices powered on safely you can add a second ballast resistor and hot wire directly from the battery(thru a fuse at the battery of course!)if you need to. That would lessen the load on your 'main' resistor. P= EI power in watts equals volts multiplied by amps the device draws. You know the volts:12 (actually 13.8), you can measure the current draw by placing a d.c. ammeter in the line. Multiply the meter amp current reading by the volts, 12, and that gives you roughly the power consumed in watts. That will tell you roughly how big a wattage resistor you need to supply the amp load without overheating. Hope this helps. 😊
I don't believe my Grandfather switched out the motor, so it should be the original 6 volt. I'm going to have to get more ballast resistors soon to finish all of the 6 volt wiring, so I'll probably just wire it to its own resistor.
@@jonersmotors Yep. It was just a thought that came up in my feeble brain. Those cars were a lot newer when I was your age 😂. I think the next year in '57(or maybe 58 ? I may be wrong about the exact date, cant remember.) Dodge went all 12 volts. But most of the hardware, like the heater duct, etc., stayed the same on some of the models, only the motor changed. Have fun!
You would think after the 1st time knowing there's no light under that dash that you'd get a light to shine up under there for the next time you show us under the dash, but no, you keep doing the same thing and expecting a different result, lol.
You would think I would learn this by now, but I'll do it again😎