I did not know what jointing is on a router, what it’s purpose is, how it works, and why does the out feed needs to be slightly out more. After searching all videos on UA-cam, no one was able to explain it clearly or show a closeup video to show the details of how it actually works. This video was super educational and was very clear. It especially helps me understand even better with the close up video that shows how the bit is cutting the edge as well as how the slightly outward out feed works. Thank you for taking the time to create the details of this video.
Well I'm glad this show was able to shed some light on the subject for you Jason. This video was filmed quite some time ago and I have since revamped the way I do it. I still have the fences offset but I don't do such a drastic offset. I only go about 1/16" now and it gets much cleaner results. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave your comment. I truly appreciate it.
@@acutabove_woodworkings it may be a while ago that you’ve created the video but it’s more educational than some of the new ones by others. It’s not about how much content one has or how old the content is. It’s more about the quality of your content/teaching methods. Thank you for spreading/sharing your knowledge and skills.
I have watched SEVERAL videos on this topic. I have to say you explained it the best and you are the only person who suggested adding a piece of wood to the outfeed fence. My table fence does move independently, but it is a pain to try to set it accurately. I finally figured out from your video I am putting too much pressure on the wood on infeed side also. I knew most of the pressure should be on outfeed side, but by you saying the trick was the pressure you put on it, I realized I’m not paying enough attention to that aspect. Thank you so much!
Glad that the show could be of help to you Miranda. One thing I would suggest is using a thinner piece of stock on the out-feed table to take a lighter "bite" from the stock you are trying to joint. It will really cut down on tear-out. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave the kind words.
I didn't even think of this as an option. For the last hour I've been shopping online for joint planer but I now realize I already have a router table and a straight bit. Thanks!
+CrushAssad A jointer planer is a handy thing for straightening cupped stock when planing on the surface but if all you need is edge planing for joining boards with a butt joint, the router table method will definitely serve you well. Thanks for tuning in.
Very helpful video! I couldn't justify buying a stand alone jointer, but just got my first router not even knowing this was an option. Total eye opener, very happy to see this!
Glad you liked the show Scott. You may have better results with a smaller shim on the out-feed side of the table. I originally said 1/8" but I have since tested and found that smaller shims are better. Less tear out with less material removal. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave me a comment. I appreciate it.
+Keith Rose Glad to hear that this video was helpful to you. Thanks for tuning in to the show and thank for taking the time to leave me a comment. Much appreciated.
A very helpful tutorial. Thank you. I was trying to joint a long edge and kept having a scalloped-out area at the end as the end of the edge passed by the router bit. I had assumed it was because I had setup the infeed fence incorrectly. I was able to eliminate the scallop by angling the leading edge of the infeed fence back a bit. But now I realize the scallop was caused by not enough pressure on the outfeed side of the work piece. The setting back of the infeed fence was coincidental. Your video is the first to clearly state the importance of the correct hand pressure on the outfeed side.
Without the pressure being applied to the out-feed side of the table Eric, it will create a snipe of sorts on the ends of the board. Jointing pressure on the out-feed is extremely important if you want to achieve good results. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave the kind words on the show.
This has been quite helpful. I lack the shop space for tools with their own stands, so I am exclusively table-top. This will work great with my table-top router table. Thanks for sharing.
Terrific video -- thorough explanation (but no extraneous gabbing), and quality editing. And just about the time I was thinking "I wonder if..." you would explain that, and when I was wishing for a close-up of the routing, there it would be! I'm about to build a table (without a jointer) and needed a really good method for jointing. This is just what the doctor ordered! Liked and subscribed!
Glad that you enjoyed the show Tim and I'm glad to have you aboard as a viewer. Thank you very much for the kind words. One thing I might suggest is to take less of a bite from the pieces and use a thinner shim on the outfeed table. Over time, I have found that a thinner shim of 1/16" or less gives much better results and although it takes more passes on the table to get the flat edge, there is far less tear out and a much smoother profile. I hope this helps. Good luck with your project and thank you for tuning in to the show. I truly appreciate it.
Really enjoyed this and learned a very useful technique..especially since I don’t have access to a jointer or table saw. A table router I do have so this was perfect for me! Thank you.
You're are very welcome. I'm glad that you enjoyed the show and that you found it useful. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave me a comment. I appreciate it.
Thanks for the kind words on the show. I'm glad that it all worked out for you. As a suggestion, in this video, the difference between the in feed and the out feed fence was extreme and it was exaggerated to show how this system really works. The difference between these two fences need not be that extreme. A 32nd of an inch or a 16th would be just fine and would use up less stock to accomplish the flat edge. While it would take more passes to accomplish this, it would also be a lot easier on the router. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave me a comment. It is appreciated.
Great video - answered lots of questions I had. For 89 cents, you could buy a self-stick vinyl tile and cut it to size. Then paste on the outfence. Less than 1/8" thick, I would guess. Perfect for that touch-up jointing.
Great suggestion Frank. It's a little too permanent for my liking as I use my fence for all kinds of other jobs in the shop and the tile would interfere. However, a replaceable fence board with the tile attached to it would be perfect for router table jointing. Great suggestion. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your idea.
Glad that you liked the show. I have since found that taking a much smaller "bite" out of the stock provides much better and cleaner results with less tear out. Thanks for the kind words on the show and for tuning in. I truly appreciate it.
Great video brother I bought a cheap little router table at a garage sale that cost me about $20 and it came with the router attached to the bottom but it does not have an adjustable fence the fence on mine is adjustable but it's one solid piece so I was thinking about doing the same exact thing I just seen in this video!! Now I'm a little more confident I can pull this off after watching this 👍👍👍👌
ziggydog24 Glad that you enjoyed the video. Just remember to keep the outside table, just slightly proud of the infeed table. You don't want to take too much of a bite out of the stock. Good luck.
You definitely can use a straight bit without the bearing Alan. The bearing just makes the setup a whole lot easier. Make sure that your cutting edge is perfectly lined up with the out feed table and you will be fine. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
For the most part, the speed of the router bit is determined by its diameter. A general rule of thumb is..... 1" and under....max rpm 24, 000 1 1/4"-2".....max rpm 18,000 2 1/4"-2 1/2".......max rpm 16,000 3"-3 1/2"......max rpm 12,000 Of course you can adjust slightly to suit your needs but these value will serve you well in most situations. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Glad that you liked the show Tim. I would suggest taking a smaller amount of material from the stock than I did here in this video. The less of a bite you take, the less chance you have for tear out. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
thanks for going through all the steps for us noobs. Very good instruction. Is it possible to make the other side parallel without a table saw to finish the board up? If so what would be your suggestions?
The short answer here Matt, is no. Jointing gives a flat reference face so that the stock can ride on the ripping fence of a table saw. Sadly, the only way to parallel the opposite side would be a table saw. Feel free to ask any questions you might have and I would be more than happy to help you out.
I have been practicing this but not having a lot of success (I will have a smooth path and then what looks like ruts in mud, then smooth). When I change pressure to be against the outfeed table, will the piece against the infeed come away slightly from the fence? I am going to try tomorrow with thinner boards.
I would also suggest using a thinner spacer on the out feed table. You might be trying to take off too much material at once. Try a spacer that is only about 1/32" thick so that you are taking off thinner strips.. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Did what you suggested and it worked much better. I can see it takes practice not to jiggle in the middle of the feed! FYI, I am a 73 yo woman returning to woodworking and loving it. Hope it doesn't embarrass you to have an old woman enjoy your channel.
@@holidaze8998 Not at all. In fact, I'm more than happy to have you here and I applaud you getting back in to woodworking. Everyone should be able to enjoy this hobby to some extent and as far as I am concerned, age has nothing to do with it. Heck, you could probably teach me a few things. Glad to have you hear as a viewer and I'm glad you enjoy the show. Thanks so much for tuning in and if you ever have any questions or comments, please don't hesitate to chime in with them and I will do my best to help out if I can.
Thank you for the kind words. I truly appreciate it. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help you out. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Nice one Kenny, good tip and one I'll definitely be trying.. :-) Cheers for all the effort you put in mate, the quality is right up there and the close up shows exactly what we're looking for
derek4dragons Glad to hear that you enjoy the show. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to drop me a comment. Always great to hear from the viewers.
No worries Kenny, to be honest I've watched a good number of your compatriots vids; and some of them frankly seem intent on taking as many digits in freezer bags to the OR for re-sewing as possible :-). I think yours is one of the few channels that gives a proper safety perspective, as well as some neat projects, so keep up the good work and look forward to the next one. BR Del
I too, have seen some terrible videos and wonder how they still have all their digits. Although I sometimes forget a few safety aspects (dust mask is one that I almost always forget) I try to provide a show that demonstrates a safe working environment. Glad to know that it is getting noticed and appreciated.
Does the bearing always need to be above the level of the wood to joint ? Seems like if the bearing touches the edge of the wood the bearing would follow the crooked or rough level of the board. Thanks for a great idea. I don't have a jointer so truing stock to glue up laminates for pen turning can be a real problem. Rich E NC
Yes, the bearing always need to be above the stock. You want to rely on the fences to guide your stock, not the bearing. The fact that the in-feed and out-feed fences are at different levels is what makes this method work. By placing the bearing at the level of the stock, not only are you only duplicated the imperfections that are already there, but you are also not cutting all of the edge grain of the wood. I hope this answers your question. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave me a comment.
I watched a few different videos on this. But this one was like "ah ha I see. " and I was able to figure it out. I have a couple of thrift store craftsman router tables all missing something. One had a built in adjustable out feed offset. Now I need some taller bits to do bigger stuff! Mine look like 3/8" ?!? Good video. Helped me
Well done Kenny nice video. My question is why can't you move the outgoing fence forward by the thickness of the board which you added on with double sided tape?
If your router table is equipped with such a feature, you definitely could do this. Mine is equipped to be adjustable but I was trying to produce a video for those who might not have an adjustable setup. Good eye.
First thanks for the video, I have a bunch of pallet boards that I want to joint and I don't have a jointer so this will be the way to go. Now I have a question, I have seen you answered several people asking about jointing the other side of the board without a table saw and you say it's difficult to do. My router table has a track on front just like yours that run parallel to the fence of the router. It has slots for attaching featherboards on it and adjust them. Now if I attach those featherboards there, square them properly using the front and sides of the table (or the router fence) and then put my previously jointed side of the board against the featherboards, and pass them through the router, will that joint them properly or at least make them roughly jointed like th other side? Thanks for all your info.
Excellent videos, very informative. Question, what about the other side? Do you just flip it and do the same process...say I wanted a panel board joint nice and tight?
No, flipping the board will not accomplish what you want. You joint the one side as a reference point. Then the opposite side would be cut on your table saw after checking that your blade is square etc. The jointed surface give a flat reference side so that it will ride perfectly on the table saw fence. By using the jointed side against the fence and ripping the board through the table saw, you are ensure that both edges are now parallel and flat and they can then be laminated to other boards if you wish. If you just flip the board and it both sides are not parallel to each other, you will just be duplicating the irregularities of the board. I hope this answers the question.
How are the extensions on the fence attached to it? I mean how is it not raising the fence system if there is a nut below each side? Talking about the two parts on each side that extend the fence in order to attach it on the table.
The fence is held to the table with large T-bolts that connect to threaded inserts that are recessed into the table. They are flush with the table's work surface so the fence can still sit flush to the table. I hope this answers your question. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thank you for the reply, Im referring to the extensions that are on each side of the fence. The T-bolts run into those extensions and go into the table inserts but how are the extensions attached to the fence?
@@Greece360 The fence support is steel and has threaded holes in it that bolts attach the fence extensions. (the white parts on the fence). These are held in place with bolts that countersink into the extension so that they do not interfere with any routing. I hope this answers your question.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Yes thank you, the reson im asking is because I have the same fence but there is no countersink hole for the bolt head to sit in. Thanks again
I just got a bosch router table and router specificaly for jointing but no matter what i do i seem to get a diagonal cut. Do you know why that would be?
I have to ask what you mean by "diagonal". Do you mean that the router is cutting a crooked line along the grain of the board? Or do you mean that the edge of the board is not being cut square to the board's face? If the cut line is crooked, that would be a user error thing where you need to place the pressure on the out feed side of the table while jointing. If the cut is not square to the face, that is a setup thing and it sounds like your bit is not square to the table. This can be as simple as your router plate needing to be levelled to your table or you may have to check the mounting of your router to make sure that it is square to the table. I hope this has helped, but if not, feel free to continue this conversation so that we can work together and get this corrected for you. Thanks for tuning in.
I'm glad that this will help you in your edge jointing John. I would suggest taking less of a pass than what I show here in the video though. The thicker pass was only done as a demonstration and you would want to take lighter passes for a practical project. Thanks for tuning in,
I am no longer using this system. I'm not sure who would carry it anymore. I tried to find one a while back for someone who was asking and I was unsuccessful. I hope you are able to find what you are looking for. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@davidbryanwoodworksandmore, the lady I bought it from found it in her garage. Her husband passed away about nine months ago and she had no idea where he put stuff. Luckily, her neighbor was helping her sort things out and they found it. I dodged a bullet there.
@@Dragonuv2002 that’s good. I was going to say I think it’s the Rousseau brand. I’ve got some. Anyways eBay has them. But maybe it’s not Rousseau but I’m pretty sure it is. I use them on my custom router miter bench in my shop. Just the inserts.
Glad I could help Jay. For those who don't have a jointer planer but need to get a flat edge by edge jointing, this method is perfect. Thanks for tuning in.
1/8" is a very aggressive cut and I would not normally do this amount of a cut. The purpose for setting it at 1/8" in this video was to exaggerate the process and make a little more clear as to what actually happens when you offset your fence like this. A 1/16" cut would be ideal for router table jointing. Great eye!!! Thanks for tuning in
Getting the opposite side perfectly parallel without a table saw is a difficult thing indeed. Obviously, the table saw would be my first and foremost choice, but if I had absolutely no choice I would consider the band saw (using a fence as a guide) or I could get away with using the router table with a straight bit and a fence, being sure to only take light passes with the flat edge of the stock firmly against the fence. All in all though, these alternate methods are quite barbaric and the table saw would be the preferred method. You could also use a combination of the band saw and table saw but using the band saw to get your rough dimension and then using the router table and fence to finish off the cut and bring it to its final dimension. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
Use a circular saw and straight edge. Draw a line exactly parrael to the routed side. Run the saw down that line. If the cut is rough take it back to the router and take a little off to make a nice smooth edge.
That is correct Earl. The out-feed fence has to be slightly proud of the in-feed but level with the bit. For better results, I would suggest a little less of a difference in the two fences than what I suggestion in this video. You just want a small amount of material removal. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Great demo. I had an idea. Instead of hardboard maybe use washers on the back side of the outfield fence for spacing. I'm going to try it out... thanks for the info
That would work as well Matt. You just want to be careful exactly how much you take off and how thick those washers are. In this video I used a 1/16" thick piece of hardboard (I think) but in reality, you should be much thinner than that. You only need to take a small shaving off of the stock in order to flatten it over many passes. Taking too much off can cause chip out on your board so taking less is a better way to go. Good luck with your edge jointing on the router table and thanks for tuning in to the show.
Wet Paint no matter what method you use to edge joint a board, only one edge will be done. Once the stock is flat on one edge, the stock is ripped on the table saw using the fence to provide a parallel edge on the opposite side of the board.
The size of the bit isn't that important but I believe this particular bit was a 3/8" diameter bit with a 1/2" shank. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
So I would joint one side, then use jointed side against a rip fence on table saw to cut other side the same? Would I then butt that flush side on a non cut board ?
I'm not 100% positive that I know what you are asking here. The purpose of jointing the on edge of the board is to get a perfectly flat edge. Placing that flat edge against the table saw fence, allows you to rip the board and duplicate this flat edge on the opposite side of the board, giving you a board with two, perfectly flat (straight) and parallel edges. If you wanted to glue boards together to make a larger or wider board, you would have to repeat the process on every board that you wanted to glue together. Each board in the glue up must have the same straight and parallel edges. I hope this helps but if I didn't answer your question, please let me know and we will try and get you an answer. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I just picked up a freud table but it's missing the fence if anyone knows where I can get a fence or if you guys know of anyone who has made a fence for this type of table please let me know thank you all and thank you for the video it's very helpful for me.
The fence for this router table is very simple to make. All you need is a base with some slots cut in it that align with the threaded holes in the table top and an upright piece at 90 degrees to the base. It doesn't have to be anything fancy. It just needs to support your piece while routing. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in. (if you are seriously looking for the Freud fence though, maybe Facebook marketplace would have something)
@@acutabove_woodworkings thank you i will try to make something to fit it i seen the threaded holes and i wasn't sure which ones to use i appreciate your reply.
@@prospectingwithdisabilitie8288 If I remember correctly (I no longer have this table) there are a total of 6 threaded holes. 3 on the left and 3 on the right. You can use any row of holes you want for your fence setup. Whichever one will get the fence closest to where you need it initially is how your choose which row of threaded holes to use. I hope this helps.
Exactly!! The router has already jointed and made one edge perfectly flat. That flat edge rides on the edge of the tablesaw fence while will allow you to cut a second side, perfectly parallel to the flattened side. The jointing forms a basis from which all other cut will be referenced. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
Discovered the outfeed depth adjustment on my router table has little relation to precision. I used your suggestion and added 1/8th material to the fence and have precise results. Thanks again. Woodworking is so much easier when you have repeatability.
@@bryancrawford3498 Glad to hear it Bryan. Your success with this is the exact reason that I continue to produce this show. Thanks once again for tuning in.
@@acutabove_woodworkings used your technique today on some cherry boards for a table top. The edges turned out great, and I did keep in mind your comment about keeping pressure on the forward fence. That helped a lot, and I’ll be using the technique more in the future. Thx again…
@@Greghc48 Glad that it worked out for you. It's truly a great technique that works well. If you need a lighter amount of material taken off the stock you are jointing, just use a thinner piece of stock on the out-feed table. Thanks for tuning in again and good luck on your future jointing.
Sure you can. As long as the cutting edge of the spiral bit is perfectly lined up with the out-feed table, it will work just fine. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
Glad that you enjoyed the show Gary. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help you out. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
You would think that would be the case Mike but in fact, no it would not create the same thing. The purpose of jointing is to get a perfectly flat edge to work with and that is what we are creating here by having the out-feed side of the fence, just proud of the in-feed side and yet level with the router bit. It is mimicking the tables on a jointer. As the wood's edge is being planed off, it is allowed to ride on the out-feed fence, trimming any imperfections away from the board that is trailing behind. After several passes, you are left with a flattened edge without any imperfections. By using the fence on a table saw, you are only duplicating the imperfections and will never get a perfectly straight edge. If you wanted to use the table saw fence to joint a boards edge, you would have to attach a perfectly flat reference piece to the board you are cutting and allow the flat piece to run against the fence, therefore duplicating the perfectly straight edge and not the imperfect edge of the board you are cutting. I hope this helps.
My offset was a little heavy during this demonstration, that's for certain. I like your method David. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your methods.
Glad that you liked it. Thanks for subscribing. I hope you will find plenty of episodes that will interest you. The show airs every Friday and Tuesday, with Fridays being the woodworking part of the show and Tuesdays can be about anything. Thanks for tuning in and taking the time to leave a comment. I truly appreciate it and I look forward to your comments on future shows.
1/4" is a very aggressive pass for jointing Kathy but if your router table has an adjustable out-feed fence, you can certainly adjust it for whatever amount of material you want to remove. I was showing an alternative though for those who don't have an adjustable out-feed fence. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I really don't think that there would be much of a difference Rick other than the price point of the spiral bit. If the bit was to be used to cut out a mortise or something like that then I would suggest a spiral but for simple jointing on the router table, I can't see there being much of a difference in cut or cut quality especially give the small amount of material that is being taken off with each pass. Thanks for tuning in.
I no longer have my Freud router table as I gave it away when I upgraded to a Jessem. This is a discontinued unit that used to be carried by the big box stores. It's a reliable fence and table that will serve you well. I used mine for years with absolutely no issues whatsoever so I'm sure that you will enjoy yours. Thanks for tuning in to the show Joni. It's very much appreciated.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thanks for Reply - on Mine where tt=he Shop Vac Hose goes into the Back is RED Color and Made of Steel , the Black Plastic is Also Smaller Square with a Clear Ring - other than that the Adjustment Knobs are the Same - Question the Aluminum Track on the Front - is it Standard - 3/4"x 3/8" T- Track ????? Looking to Add a Feather Board - New to DIY
@@jonienglish3231 I don't recall exactly if the T-track was a standard size or not but with that being said, I don't recall ever having a problem getting T-bolts for jigs and fixtures to mount to the table. I'm pretty sure it was a standard size that works with most track installed accessories. I hope this helps Joni.
You're very welcome Neil. As I have suggested to other viewers, to avoid tear-out in your stock, you might want to use a thinner board on the out-feed side of the fence. This will remove a smaller amount of material and I have found that there is far less tear-out using that method. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
Using a thinner material than I did in the demonstration would definitely go a long to way to giving finer results. Good for you for thinking outside of the box. Thanks for tuning in and chiming in with your experience. Very useful information.
If the edge of the board is not perfectly straight, then the fence of the table saw will only duplicate the imperfections of the board in the cut to some degree. The purpose of jointing it to give a perfectly flat edge to reference all other cuts from. This is just an alternate method for those who do not have a jointer but have a router table. After the initial side is flattened by "jointing" then the board can be cut to its final dimension and the fence will only duplicate the flatness of the jointed side.
I did not know what jointing is on a router, what it’s purpose is, how it works, and why does the out feed needs to be slightly out more. After searching all videos on UA-cam, no one was able to explain it clearly or show a closeup video to show the details of how it actually works. This video was super educational and was very clear. It especially helps me understand even better with the close up video that shows how the bit is cutting the edge as well as how the slightly outward out feed works. Thank you for taking the time to create the details of this video.
Well I'm glad this show was able to shed some light on the subject for you Jason. This video was filmed quite some time ago and I have since revamped the way I do it. I still have the fences offset but I don't do such a drastic offset. I only go about 1/16" now and it gets much cleaner results. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave your comment. I truly appreciate it.
@@acutabove_woodworkings it may be a while ago that you’ve created the video but it’s more educational than some of the new ones by others. It’s not about how much content one has or how old the content is. It’s more about the quality of your content/teaching methods. Thank you for spreading/sharing your knowledge and skills.
@@jasonsmith5660 You're very welcome. Thanks for your kind response and once again, thank you for tuning in to the show.
One of the best walk-throughs on the Tube. Thanks, brother.
You're very welcome. I'm glad that you liked it. Thanks for tuning in.
High quality production, very clear and complete. A video of this quality is worth 10,000 words in a "using your router table" book!
I have watched SEVERAL videos on this topic. I have to say you explained it the best and you are the only person who suggested adding a piece of wood to the outfeed fence. My table fence does move independently, but it is a pain to try to set it accurately. I finally figured out from your video I am putting too much pressure on the wood on infeed side also. I knew most of the pressure should be on outfeed side, but by you saying the trick was the pressure you put on it, I realized I’m not paying enough attention to that aspect. Thank you so much!
Glad that the show could be of help to you Miranda. One thing I would suggest is using a thinner piece of stock on the out-feed table to take a lighter "bite" from the stock you are trying to joint. It will really cut down on tear-out. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave the kind words.
I didn't even think of this as an option. For the last hour I've been shopping online for joint planer but I now realize I already have a router table and a straight bit. Thanks!
+CrushAssad A jointer planer is a handy thing for straightening cupped stock when planing on the surface but if all you need is edge planing for joining boards with a butt joint, the router table method will definitely serve you well.
Thanks for tuning in.
Very helpful video! I couldn't justify buying a stand alone jointer, but just got my first router not even knowing this was an option. Total eye opener, very happy to see this!
Glad you liked the show Scott. You may have better results with a smaller shim on the out-feed side of the table. I originally said 1/8" but I have since tested and found that smaller shims are better. Less tear out with less material removal. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave me a comment. I appreciate it.
I do not have money for a jointer, however I did build my own router table, so this video was incredibly helpful. Thank you for posting this.
+Keith Rose Glad to hear that this video was helpful to you. Thanks for tuning in to the show and thank for taking the time to leave me a comment. Much appreciated.
A very helpful tutorial. Thank you. I was trying to joint a long edge and kept having a scalloped-out area at the end as the end of the edge passed by the router bit. I had assumed it was because I had setup the infeed fence incorrectly. I was able to eliminate the scallop by angling the leading edge of the infeed fence back a bit. But now I realize the scallop was caused by not enough pressure on the outfeed side of the work piece. The setting back of the infeed fence was coincidental. Your video is the first to clearly state the importance of the correct hand pressure on the outfeed side.
Without the pressure being applied to the out-feed side of the table Eric, it will create a snipe of sorts on the ends of the board. Jointing pressure on the out-feed is extremely important if you want to achieve good results. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave the kind words on the show.
This has been quite helpful. I lack the shop space for tools with their own stands, so I am exclusively table-top. This will work great with my table-top router table. Thanks for sharing.
+Ian Johnson
I'm glad to hear that this video is helpful to you. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave me a comment. I appreciate it.
Terrific video -- thorough explanation (but no extraneous gabbing), and quality editing. And just about the time I was thinking "I wonder if..." you would explain that, and when I was wishing for a close-up of the routing, there it would be! I'm about to build a table (without a jointer) and needed a really good method for jointing. This is just what the doctor ordered! Liked and subscribed!
Glad that you enjoyed the show Tim and I'm glad to have you aboard as a viewer. Thank you very much for the kind words. One thing I might suggest is to take less of a bite from the pieces and use a thinner shim on the outfeed table. Over time, I have found that a thinner shim of 1/16" or less gives much better results and although it takes more passes on the table to get the flat edge, there is far less tear out and a much smoother profile. I hope this helps. Good luck with your project and thank you for tuning in to the show. I truly appreciate it.
Really enjoyed this and learned a very useful technique..especially since I don’t have access to a jointer or table saw. A table router I do have so this was perfect for me! Thank you.
You're are very welcome. I'm glad that you enjoyed the show and that you found it useful. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave me a comment. I appreciate it.
kick ass video demonstration. I built a router table and fence today and tried this out. Works beautifully! Subscribed.
Thanks for the kind words on the show. I'm glad that it all worked out for you. As a suggestion, in this video, the difference between the in feed and the out feed fence was extreme and it was exaggerated to show how this system really works. The difference between these two fences need not be that extreme. A 32nd of an inch or a 16th would be just fine and would use up less stock to accomplish the flat edge. While it would take more passes to accomplish this, it would also be a lot easier on the router. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave me a comment. It is appreciated.
Your videos are very helpful.. I always learn something new.
Glad to hear that you are finding the show to be informative. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for the kind words. It's truly appreciated.
Great video - answered lots of questions I had.
For 89 cents, you could buy a self-stick vinyl tile and cut it to size. Then paste on the outfence.
Less than 1/8" thick, I would guess. Perfect for that touch-up jointing.
Great suggestion Frank. It's a little too permanent for my liking as I use my fence for all kinds of other jobs in the shop and the tile would interfere. However, a replaceable fence board with the tile attached to it would be perfect for router table jointing. Great suggestion. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your idea.
I know this was made awhile ago but thanks that’s a really great video and very informative!
Glad that you liked the show. I have since found that taking a much smaller "bite" out of the stock provides much better and cleaner results with less tear out. Thanks for the kind words on the show and for tuning in. I truly appreciate it.
Nice one Kenny; simple, clear and effective.
+lodgeblog
Glad to hear that you enjoyed it. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave me a comment.
Great video brother I bought a cheap little router table at a garage sale that cost me about $20 and it came with the router attached to the bottom but it does not have an adjustable fence the fence on mine is adjustable but it's one solid piece so I was thinking about doing the same exact thing I just seen in this video!! Now I'm a little more confident I can pull this off after watching this 👍👍👍👌
I'm glad to hear that the show was helpful to you Gerardo. Good luck with the new router table. Thanks for tuning in.
Really good video, very well presented. Will have to give this one a go. Thanks again from across the lake in the UK.
ziggydog24 Glad that you enjoyed the video. Just remember to keep the outside table, just slightly proud of the infeed table. You don't want to take too much of a bite out of the stock. Good luck.
Great video , thank you. Would I be able to use a straight router bit without a bearing?
You definitely can use a straight bit without the bearing Alan. The bearing just makes the setup a whole lot easier. Make sure that your cutting edge is perfectly lined up with the out feed table and you will be fine. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thank you! Your easily understood video and explanation was really helpful to me
Glad to hear that it was helpful Mark. Thanks for tuning in and if you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
Awesome instruction really helpful. Many thanks from sunny England
Glad that you liked it Adrian. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave a comment. It's appreciated.
How do you determine the speed of the router bit? Faster for hardwood slower for soft wood? Great video!
For the most part, the speed of the router bit is determined by its diameter. A general rule of thumb is.....
1" and under....max rpm 24, 000
1 1/4"-2".....max rpm 18,000
2 1/4"-2 1/2".......max rpm 16,000
3"-3 1/2"......max rpm 12,000
Of course you can adjust slightly to suit your needs but these value will serve you well in most situations. I hope this helps.
Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Great demonstration Kenny, thanks! Now i eliminated my snipe problem.
Glad that you liked the show Tim. I would suggest taking a smaller amount of material from the stock than I did here in this video. The less of a bite you take, the less chance you have for tear out. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
thanks for going through all the steps for us noobs. Very good instruction. Is it possible to make the other side parallel without a table saw to finish the board up? If so what would be your suggestions?
The short answer here Matt, is no. Jointing gives a flat reference face so that the stock can ride on the ripping fence of a table saw. Sadly, the only way to parallel the opposite side would be a table saw. Feel free to ask any questions you might have and I would be more than happy to help you out.
I have been practicing this but not having a lot of success (I will have a smooth path and then what looks like ruts in mud, then smooth). When I change pressure to be against the outfeed table, will the piece against the infeed come away slightly from the fence? I am going to try tomorrow with thinner boards.
I would also suggest using a thinner spacer on the out feed table. You might be trying to take off too much material at once. Try a spacer that is only about 1/32" thick so that you are taking off thinner strips.. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings thanks so much for your suggestion, Kenny. Have subscribed.
Glad to have you aboard as a subscriber. I hope you continue to enjoy future episodes of the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Did what you suggested and it worked much better. I can see it takes practice not to jiggle in the middle of the feed! FYI, I am a 73 yo woman returning to woodworking and loving it. Hope it doesn't embarrass you to have an old woman enjoy your channel.
@@holidaze8998 Not at all. In fact, I'm more than happy to have you here and I applaud you getting back in to woodworking. Everyone should be able to enjoy this hobby to some extent and as far as I am concerned, age has nothing to do with it. Heck, you could probably teach me a few things. Glad to have you hear as a viewer and I'm glad you enjoy the show. Thanks so much for tuning in and if you ever have any questions or comments, please don't hesitate to chime in with them and I will do my best to help out if I can.
I just got same router table.. thank you for sharing this..
You're very welcome Rudy. Good luck with your routing and thanks for tuning in.
!!! Great job !!! Thanks for sharing with us and helping us to save some money
You're very welcome. Thanks fo tuning in to the show. I'm glad that you liked it.
Excellent Video! Thanks for the close-ups!
Thank you for the kind words. I truly appreciate it. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help you out. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Nice one Kenny, good tip and one I'll definitely be trying.. :-) Cheers for all the effort you put in mate, the quality is right up there and the close up shows exactly what we're looking for
derek4dragons Glad to hear that you enjoy the show. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to drop me a comment. Always great to hear from the viewers.
No worries Kenny, to be honest I've watched a good number of your compatriots vids; and some of them frankly seem intent on taking as many digits in freezer bags to the OR for re-sewing as possible :-). I think yours is one of the few channels that gives a proper safety perspective, as well as some neat projects, so keep up the good work and look forward to the next one. BR Del
I too, have seen some terrible videos and wonder how they still have all their digits. Although I sometimes forget a few safety aspects (dust mask is one that I almost always forget) I try to provide a show that demonstrates a safe working environment. Glad to know that it is getting noticed and appreciated.
Does the bearing always need to be above the level of the wood to joint ? Seems like if the bearing touches the edge of the wood the bearing would follow the crooked or rough level of the board. Thanks for a great idea. I don't have a jointer so truing stock to glue up laminates for pen turning can be a real problem. Rich E NC
Yes, the bearing always need to be above the stock. You want to rely on the fences to guide your stock, not the bearing. The fact that the in-feed and out-feed fences are at different levels is what makes this method work. By placing the bearing at the level of the stock, not only are you only duplicated the imperfections that are already there, but you are also not cutting all of the edge grain of the wood. I hope this answers your question. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave me a comment.
I wonder if you used a 6" cut length end mill bit, would it produce satisfactory results on the wide surface. Sure would be cheaper than a 6" jointer.
I watched a few different videos on this. But this one was like "ah ha I see. " and I was able to figure it out. I have a couple of thrift store craftsman router tables all missing something. One had a built in adjustable out feed offset. Now I need some taller bits to do bigger stuff! Mine look like 3/8" ?!? Good video. Helped me
Glad that you found the video to be useful. Thanks for tuning in and for the kind words.
Well done Kenny nice video. My question is why can't you move the outgoing fence forward by the thickness of the board which you added on with double sided tape?
If your router table is equipped with such a feature, you definitely could do this. Mine is equipped to be adjustable but I was trying to produce a video for those who might not have an adjustable setup. Good eye.
First thanks for the video, I have a bunch of pallet boards that I want to joint and I don't have a jointer so this will be the way to go. Now I have a question, I have seen you answered several people asking about jointing the other side of the board without a table saw and you say it's difficult to do. My router table has a track on front just like yours that run parallel to the fence of the router. It has slots for attaching featherboards on it and adjust them. Now if I attach those featherboards there, square them properly using the front and sides of the table (or the router fence) and then put my previously jointed side of the board against the featherboards, and pass them through the router, will that joint them properly or at least make them roughly jointed like th other side? Thanks for all your info.
Excellent videos, very informative. Question, what about the other side? Do you just flip it and do the same process...say I wanted a panel board joint nice and tight?
No, flipping the board will not accomplish what you want. You joint the one side as a reference point. Then the opposite side would be cut on your table saw after checking that your blade is square etc. The jointed surface give a flat reference side so that it will ride perfectly on the table saw fence. By using the jointed side against the fence and ripping the board through the table saw, you are ensure that both edges are now parallel and flat and they can then be laminated to other boards if you wish. If you just flip the board and it both sides are not parallel to each other, you will just be duplicating the irregularities of the board. I hope this answers the question.
kennyearrings1 Yes it does, thank you. Looking forward to more videos.
If you have any questions Joel, feel free to ask. I'd be more than happy to help you out.
How are the extensions on the fence attached to it? I mean how is it not raising the fence system if there is a nut below each side? Talking about the two parts on each side that extend the fence in order to attach it on the table.
The fence is held to the table with large T-bolts that connect to threaded inserts that are recessed into the table. They are flush with the table's work surface so the fence can still sit flush to the table. I hope this answers your question. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thank you for the reply, Im referring to the extensions that are on each side of the fence. The T-bolts run into those extensions and go into the table inserts but how are the extensions attached to the fence?
@@Greece360 The fence support is steel and has threaded holes in it that bolts attach the fence extensions. (the white parts on the fence). These are held in place with bolts that countersink into the extension so that they do not interfere with any routing. I hope this answers your question.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Yes thank you, the reson im asking is because I have the same fence but there is no countersink hole for the bolt head to sit in. Thanks again
I just got a bosch router table and router specificaly for jointing but no matter what i do i seem to get a diagonal cut. Do you know why that would be?
I have to ask what you mean by "diagonal". Do you mean that the router is cutting a crooked line along the grain of the board? Or do you mean that the edge of the board is not being cut square to the board's face? If the cut line is crooked, that would be a user error thing where you need to place the pressure on the out feed side of the table while jointing. If the cut is not square to the face, that is a setup thing and it sounds like your bit is not square to the table. This can be as simple as your router plate needing to be levelled to your table or you may have to check the mounting of your router to make sure that it is square to the table. I hope this has helped, but if not, feel free to continue this conversation so that we can work together and get this corrected for you. Thanks for tuning in.
Wow, my jointer died, this allows me to start the project for which I needed the jointer, brilliant!
I'm glad that this will help you in your edge jointing John. I would suggest taking less of a pass than what I show here in the video though. The thicker pass was only done as a demonstration and you would want to take lighter passes for a practical project. Thanks for tuning in,
Are you still using the Freud PKG0026 setup? I’m having a hard time finding a table insert and rings. Do you know of any place still selling them?
I am no longer using this system. I'm not sure who would carry it anymore. I tried to find one a while back for someone who was asking and I was unsuccessful. I hope you are able to find what you are looking for. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Did you find it?
@@davidbryanwoodworksandmore, the lady I bought it from found it in her garage. Her husband passed away about nine months ago and she had no idea where he put stuff. Luckily, her neighbor was helping her sort things out and they found it. I dodged a bullet there.
@@Dragonuv2002 Good to hear.
@@Dragonuv2002 that’s good. I was going to say I think it’s the Rousseau brand. I’ve got some. Anyways eBay has them. But maybe it’s not Rousseau but I’m pretty sure it is. I use them on my custom router miter bench in my shop. Just the inserts.
This video was a huge help, thank you!
Glad I could help Jay. For those who don't have a jointer planer but need to get a flat edge by edge jointing, this method is perfect.
Thanks for tuning in.
Nice video! Do you find 1/8" to be too aggressive of a cut? I would be tempted to use a 1/16 outfeed.
1/8" is a very aggressive cut and I would not normally do this amount of a cut. The purpose for setting it at 1/8" in this video was to exaggerate the process and make a little more clear as to what actually happens when you offset your fence like this. A 1/16" cut would be ideal for router table jointing. Great eye!!! Thanks for tuning in
hi Ken excellent video as normal ,how does one get the parallel side square with out a table saw??
Getting the opposite side perfectly parallel without a table saw is a difficult thing indeed. Obviously, the table saw would be my first and foremost choice, but if I had absolutely no choice I would consider the band saw (using a fence as a guide) or I could get away with using the router table with a straight bit and a fence, being sure to only take light passes with the flat edge of the stock firmly against the fence. All in all though, these alternate methods are quite barbaric and the table saw would be the preferred method. You could also use a combination of the band saw and table saw but using the band saw to get your rough dimension and then using the router table and fence to finish off the cut and bring it to its final dimension. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
Use a circular saw and straight edge. Draw a line exactly parrael to the routed side. Run the saw down that line. If the cut is rough take it back to the router and take a little off to make a nice smooth edge.
you did say align the outfeed fence with the bearing on the bit .......right????
That is correct Earl. The out-feed fence has to be slightly proud of the in-feed but level with the bit. For better results, I would suggest a little less of a difference in the two fences than what I suggestion in this video. You just want a small amount of material removal. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Great demo. I had an idea. Instead of hardboard maybe use washers on the back side of the outfield fence for spacing. I'm going to try it out... thanks for the info
That would work as well Matt. You just want to be careful exactly how much you take off and how thick those washers are. In this video I used a 1/16" thick piece of hardboard (I think) but in reality, you should be much thinner than that. You only need to take a small shaving off of the stock in order to flatten it over many passes. Taking too much off can cause chip out on your board so taking less is a better way to go. Good luck with your edge jointing on the router table and thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings ok. Thanks for the info!
You're very welcome @@mattmac6546
Can you also joint the other edge of the board this way? Or will they not be parallel to each other.
Wet Paint no matter what method you use to edge joint a board, only one edge will be done. Once the stock is flat on one edge, the stock is ripped on the table saw using the fence to provide a parallel edge on the opposite side of the board.
Like the simple. Well explained. Thnx
Glad that you enjoyed the show Tim. Thanks for tuning in and taking the time to leave the comment. It's appreciated.
awesome video. what size but did you use?
The size of the bit isn't that important but I believe this particular bit was a 3/8" diameter bit with a 1/2" shank. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
Kenny, go the next step with a table saw for both of the ends. GREAT JOB!
LOL. I may have to look into that.
Nice Job Kenny!
Great video, thanks for posting. I learned a thing or 4.
You're very welcome David. I'm glad to hear that you found the program useful. Thank you for tuning in.
So I would joint one side, then use jointed side against a rip fence on table saw to cut other side the same? Would I then butt that flush side on a non cut board ?
I'm not 100% positive that I know what you are asking here. The purpose of jointing the on edge of the board is to get a perfectly flat edge. Placing that flat edge against the table saw fence, allows you to rip the board and duplicate this flat edge on the opposite side of the board, giving you a board with two, perfectly flat (straight) and parallel edges. If you wanted to glue boards together to make a larger or wider board, you would have to repeat the process on every board that you wanted to glue together. Each board in the glue up must have the same straight and parallel edges. I hope this helps but if I didn't answer your question, please let me know and we will try and get you an answer. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings awesome answer yes makes sense I'm a beginner and you got yourself a subscriber thank you so much
Glad to have you aboard redcon. If you have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask.
I just picked up a freud table but it's missing the fence if anyone knows where I can get a fence or if you guys know of anyone who has made a fence for this type of table please let me know thank you all and thank you for the video it's very helpful for me.
The fence for this router table is very simple to make. All you need is a base with some slots cut in it that align with the threaded holes in the table top and an upright piece at 90 degrees to the base. It doesn't have to be anything fancy. It just needs to support your piece while routing. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in. (if you are seriously looking for the Freud fence though, maybe Facebook marketplace would have something)
@@acutabove_woodworkings thank you i will try to make something to fit it i seen the threaded holes and i wasn't sure which ones to use i appreciate your reply.
@@prospectingwithdisabilitie8288 If I remember correctly (I no longer have this table) there are a total of 6 threaded holes. 3 on the left and 3 on the right. You can use any row of holes you want for your fence setup. Whichever one will get the fence closest to where you need it initially is how your choose which row of threaded holes to use. I hope this helps.
That absolutely helps me thank you so much for your time and help I appreciate it
So then you put the routed edge against the fence on your table saw?
Exactly!! The router has already jointed and made one edge perfectly flat. That flat edge rides on the edge of the tablesaw fence while will allow you to cut a second side, perfectly parallel to the flattened side. The jointing forms a basis from which all other cut will be referenced. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
Thanks Bruddah!
You're very welcome @@bryancrawford3498
Discovered the outfeed depth adjustment on my router table has little relation to precision. I used your suggestion and added 1/8th material to the fence and have precise results. Thanks again. Woodworking is so much easier when you have repeatability.
@@bryancrawford3498 Glad to hear it Bryan. Your success with this is the exact reason that I continue to produce this show. Thanks once again for tuning in.
Great instruction. Thx for sharing.
Glad that you liked it. Thanks for tuning in to the show. It's very much appreciated.
@@acutabove_woodworkings used your technique today on some cherry boards for a table top. The edges turned out great, and I did keep in mind your comment about keeping pressure on the forward fence. That helped a lot, and I’ll be using the technique more in the future. Thx again…
@@Greghc48 Glad that it worked out for you. It's truly a great technique that works well. If you need a lighter amount of material taken off the stock you are jointing, just use a thinner piece of stock on the out-feed table. Thanks for tuning in again and good luck on your future jointing.
@@acutabove_woodworkings thx again… really appreciate your help.
Can I use a spiral bit to do this?
Sure you can. As long as the cutting edge of the spiral bit is perfectly lined up with the out-feed table, it will work just fine. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
Thank you, very informative, WILKO, Australia
Glad that you enjoyed the show Gary. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help you out. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Hi. Wouldn't cutting a board with a table saw against a fence achieve the same thing
You would think that would be the case Mike but in fact, no it would not create the same thing. The purpose of jointing is to get a perfectly flat edge to work with and that is what we are creating here by having the out-feed side of the fence, just proud of the in-feed side and yet level with the router bit. It is mimicking the tables on a jointer. As the wood's edge is being planed off, it is allowed to ride on the out-feed fence, trimming any imperfections away from the board that is trailing behind. After several passes, you are left with a flattened edge without any imperfections. By using the fence on a table saw, you are only duplicating the imperfections and will never get a perfectly straight edge. If you wanted to use the table saw fence to joint a boards edge, you would have to attach a perfectly flat reference piece to the board you are cutting and allow the flat piece to run against the fence, therefore duplicating the perfectly straight edge and not the imperfect edge of the board you are cutting. I hope this helps.
kennyearrings1
Ah I see. Thank you buddy
You're very welcome.
This has helped me. THANKS!!!!
I'm on amazon looking for extra long straight bits now. lol
You're very welcome Robert. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thanks for this.
You're very welcome Joseph. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
I found it easier for me to set my offset (how much cut I want to take. Usually around 1/32), then line up my outfield fence to the cutter.
My offset was a little heavy during this demonstration, that's for certain. I like your method David. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your methods.
Great video. Thank you.
You are very welcome. Thanks for the kind words and for tuning in to the show. It's appreciated.
great tip!!!! subscribed
Glad that you liked it. Thanks for subscribing. I hope you will find plenty of episodes that will interest you. The show airs every Friday and Tuesday, with Fridays being the woodworking part of the show and Tuesdays can be about anything. Thanks for tuning in and taking the time to leave a comment. I truly appreciate it and I look forward to your comments on future shows.
Could you just have just adjusted it on the outfeed side that 1/4 of an inch difference?
1/4" is a very aggressive pass for jointing Kathy but if your router table has an adjustable out-feed fence, you can certainly adjust it for whatever amount of material you want to remove. I was showing an alternative though for those who don't have an adjustable out-feed fence. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
great vid, nicely done and clearly explained, subbed.
+lordmcted Glad that you enjoyed it. I hope that this method becomes useful to you.
Thanks for the no nonsense (eg: cutesy hoo ha) video. I'm wondering about the validity and value of using a spiral vs. a straight bit.
I really don't think that there would be much of a difference Rick other than the price point of the spiral bit. If the bit was to be used to cut out a mortise or something like that then I would suggest a spiral but for simple jointing on the router table, I can't see there being much of a difference in cut or cut quality especially give the small amount of material that is being taken off with each pass. Thanks for tuning in.
i just picked up a used Freud Router Table top - Looks Same as Yours
I no longer have my Freud router table as I gave it away when I upgraded to a Jessem. This is a discontinued unit that used to be carried by the big box stores. It's a reliable fence and table that will serve you well. I used mine for years with absolutely no issues whatsoever so I'm sure that you will enjoy yours. Thanks for tuning in to the show Joni. It's very much appreciated.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thanks for Reply - on Mine where tt=he Shop Vac Hose goes into the Back is RED Color and Made of Steel , the Black Plastic is Also Smaller Square with a Clear Ring - other than that the Adjustment Knobs are the Same - Question the Aluminum Track on the Front - is it Standard - 3/4"x 3/8" T- Track ?????
Looking to Add a Feather Board - New to DIY
@@jonienglish3231 I don't recall exactly if the T-track was a standard size or not but with that being said, I don't recall ever having a problem getting T-bolts for jigs and fixtures to mount to the table. I'm pretty sure it was a standard size that works with most track installed accessories. I hope this helps Joni.
Very good Thank you.
You're very welcome Neil. As I have suggested to other viewers, to avoid tear-out in your stock, you might want to use a thinner board on the out-feed side of the fence. This will remove a smaller amount of material and I have found that there is far less tear-out using that method. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
thanks good thinking
Glad that you liked it Frank. Thanks for tuning in.
I did this for guitar tops and used a piece of masking tape on the out feed
Using a thinner material than I did in the demonstration would definitely go a long to way to giving finer results. Good for you for thinking outside of the box. Thanks for tuning in and chiming in with your experience. Very useful information.
AMAZING!!
Thanks for the kind word and for tuning in to the show.
EXCELENTE THANKS
You're very welcome. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
1K thumbs up
Thanks for the kind words and for tuning in.
Why not just cut edge on table saw
If the edge of the board is not perfectly straight, then the fence of the table saw will only duplicate the imperfections of the board in the cut to some degree. The purpose of jointing it to give a perfectly flat edge to reference all other cuts from. This is just an alternate method for those who do not have a jointer but have a router table. After the initial side is flattened by "jointing" then the board can be cut to its final dimension and the fence will only duplicate the flatness of the jointed side.
Smart
Thanks Joe.
I would use mdf and plywood