Yes sir. After I got 19k on my bike I did a total S&S cam chest upgrade with the latest oil pump hotter cam, lifters, and everything. The bike was a 2017 and I plan on keeping it for a while, no reason to upgrade a bike I can upgrade cheaper than buying a new bike.
I think I’m having sumping/scavenging issues and want to change my pump out. I don’t want to cut the pushrods as I already have a big bore and cam that was installed by an independent. What mic are you using in the video to check runout. I was told that Fueling has the only tool to check runout and requires taking everything out including the cam.
HELP I was watching this video to replace my m8 oil pump. Now im not sure if my valves are in the correct location. Is there a way to tell where the valve cam is rotated without pulling the rocker covers? Help!
@@KenMrKLC Good to hear. Hopefully there’s no more HD engineering gremlins waiting. I have a few bikes that I beat the shit out of, this is the only one I’ve needed repairs on this year.
Hands down drop the extra! I was going to buy the cheap one too until I jacked it up and saw the difference in stability…. This jack is AWESOME….. it lifts high enough to feel like you have a bike lift table. Couldn’t be happier
It is also recommended to remove the case sump plug and reinstall a shorter plug. The stock plug is too long and blocks proper flow, which can cause sumping.
IMO the cam plate is fine. I have a 2017 parts book, and checked its part number on Harley’s OEM parts finder and that plate has never been updated. I see it’s still being used on 2023 bikes. I have a 2017 too, and was looking at a pump upgrade. I don’t want to waste money where I don’t need to, and I haven’t found any complaints about the 2020 oil pump or cam plate. Sure S&S would like to convince you to upgrade, but from I’ve heard unless you’re building a motor bigger than a 117 there’s really no need. Last point put your bike in transport mode before working on it. Your flashers were going off while you were filming.
Your turning the motor over with the cam still in the motor which is holding. Some of the valves in a fully or partially opened position. You may have just hit those valves with your pistons. You have to at least remove the pushrods.
Yes sir. After I got 19k on my bike I did a total S&S cam chest upgrade with the latest oil pump hotter cam, lifters, and everything. The bike was a 2017 and I plan on keeping it for a while, no reason to upgrade a bike I can upgrade cheaper than buying a new bike.
Did same!
Where’s the update on the oil pump video
Very good information! I’ve done a few oil pumps and cams myself by watching videos on UA-cam!
Nice!
You don’t have to turn on the ignition to check the mileage. Just press the toggle on the left switch pack.
Well done 👍
I think I’m having sumping/scavenging issues and want to change my pump out. I don’t want to cut the pushrods as I already have a big bore and cam that was installed by an independent. What mic are you using in the video to check runout. I was told that Fueling has the only tool to check runout and requires taking everything out including the cam.
Did you make a video of the install
I've seen No re-installation videos of the pump upgrade without pulling the push rods off. Am I missing something?
HELP
I was watching this video to replace my m8 oil pump.
Now im not sure if my valves are in the correct location.
Is there a way to tell where the valve cam is rotated without pulling the rocker covers?
Help!
I have the same bike, had the oil light coming on from the sumping issue at 3k miles. Just put the 2020 HD pump on.
Nice, that should solve it .... has been great so far.... at least 500 miles on it since
@@KenMrKLC Good to hear. Hopefully there’s no more HD engineering gremlins waiting. I have a few bikes that I beat the shit out of, this is the only one I’ve needed repairs on this year.
Good video. How do you like that Harbor Freight jack? I have been trying to decide which one to get, that one or the $100 red one
Hands down drop the extra! I was going to buy the cheap one too until I jacked it up and saw the difference in stability…. This jack is AWESOME….. it lifts high enough to feel like you have a bike lift table. Couldn’t be happier
@@KenMrKLC thank you, I was leaning towards that jack.
First again. Love the bike. One day buddy we will ride together. Good I idea with the new oil pump. Nice work, great video Ken!
For sure Mike….. curious what distance we have between us. I have a cousin who lives on the border in US side….. I’ll map it sometime
Brandon from Berndt Lawn Care came and visited my shop. Not sure if you are sub to him.
@@KenMrKLC I am about an hour 20 minutes from Buffalo
@@KenMrKLC Is the UA-cam name Berndt’s Lawn Care & Mower Repair? If so, I just did subscribe. Thanks Ken!
Good video... :-)
Thank you ;)
It is also recommended to remove the case sump plug and reinstall a shorter plug. The stock plug is too long and blocks proper flow, which can cause sumping.
Fp3 will not work with stage 2 468 cam upgrade you will need it a real tune to get the bike to run correctly tts tuner is a good option.
IMO the cam plate is fine. I have a 2017 parts book, and checked its part number on Harley’s OEM parts finder and that plate has never been updated. I see it’s still being used on 2023 bikes. I have a 2017 too, and was looking at a pump upgrade. I don’t want to waste money where I don’t need to, and I haven’t found any complaints about the 2020 oil pump or cam plate. Sure S&S would like to convince you to upgrade, but from I’ve heard unless you’re building a motor bigger than a 117 there’s really no need.
Last point put your bike in transport mode before working on it. Your flashers were going off while you were filming.
I agree, and great point about transport mode
It looks like it’s dropping back below zero that’s where you need to zero it out.
Or calculate total distance between the high and low.
Your turning the motor over with the cam still in the motor which is holding. Some of the valves in a fully or partially opened position. You may have just hit those valves with your pistons. You have to at least remove the pushrods.
You spend too much time talking about future plans and not explaining what you are doing... and the camera is WAY too far away in most of your video
I appreciate the constructive criticism