Choosing a Backup Generator Plus 3 LEGAL House Connection Options - Transfer Switch and More
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- Опубліковано 2 лип 2019
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Want to choose a backup generator wisely and connect it to your house legally? You've got to make a connection the right way to keep line workers safe and to avoid trouble with the law. This video is about choosing a backup generator and understanding the 3 legal methods for connecting it to your home.
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As a member of the IBEW,I thank you for mentioning linemen can be injured or killed by generator feedback from generators being hooked up by diy folks that just do not realize the dangers.
I agree. This is why generator safety is very important ua-cam.com/video/I1jT3ANENvI/v-deo.html hope you stay safe as well
IBEW.
Aren’t they under UAW’s thumb?
I got into a heated discussion with a homeowner while I was working on his furnace and he said he just tied into a 30A breaker but didn't bother to use the interlock. He claimed "I'll never forget to turn off the main!) Yeah ok, let's take that chance!
use an interlock kit in you main panel, then can not be backfeeding any power. It is intuitively the easiest way to gen power the home.
Never assume power is off! Can't you electricians plug in a lightbulb or something to tell you when power is on?
Very informative video! I just bought a Duromax XP 12000EH, am a fairly new home owner, and have never used a generator for anything besides powering construction equipment. In March of this year (2020) my area was hit with an F4 tornado. Both the house my wife and I live in and another we own on the same street were damaged, so we've been through several months construction and are now trying to be prepared for the next disaster (and also sell the smaller home). Aside from a tornado shelter lagged to my garage floor, I've bought the DuroMax for power-outage scenarios. Wasn't sure what kind of a hookup situation I wanted to go with, or even what all is available, but your video here helped me decide: transfer switch/panel. Looks like the best option. Thanks!
Retired Union Electrician here, good article, code correct. Here is #4, a cheap and 'legal' [NEC compliant] method:
Use a mechanical interlock on your main breaker [must be the correct part for your electric panel] it will prevent both the main and genset breakers from being energized at the same time. The interlock cost $71 for my Cutler Hammer 200 amp panel. Buy a couple of CO2 detectors, too, cuz more people die from CO2 fumes than in hurricanes and tornados combined.
PRO: Cheap, safe, easy to install.
CON: You must manually switch off 2 pole high load circuits to reduce demand below your genset's capacity. In my house, this includes the HW heater, dryer, 4 ton HVAC, and range. If you don't, you'll trip your genset's breaker, requiring a manual
reset, usually in the dark, just as you fall asleep!
BTW, do not worry about linemen's safety. These men know how to work safe with very high voltage. The danger is that any service sharing your 'step down' line xfmr [13.2 KV to 240 volts] will also become energized, meaning your neighbor's houses!
Stay safe folks, remember that gensets kill more people than storms every year. Don't do electrical work if your unqualified.
--'Ten fingers' Chris
I do this for a living so let me throw in a few tips: The typical portable gen set will use gasoline or LP at the rate of about 1 gallon per hour for each 5 KW draw. What that means is your 7 - 9 KW set running at 50 - 60% capacity will drink about a gallon per hour if you draw that much juice. Since so many thing in a house run in cycles of varying lengths you may find your consumption is not all that much. IOW, the fridge or heat will shut off when the t-stat. says it's up to snuff. The well pump will only run for 1 - 2 minutes at a time. Basically you will need the gen's higher capacity to start these loads but after a few hours it's not much load at all and the fuel use will drop off in proportion. Here's a few more things to consider: Your fridge can hold most of it's cold for a good 8 hours if the door is closed and it will reach temp with 3 - 4 hours of run time. If you can run your gen for 3-4 hours in the morning and another 5-6 in the evening, then that's enough to maintain some heat in the house, some cold in the fridge, and keep up with minimum demands of other needs. (water and such) Keeping all this in mind you can run the average small home on about 5 gallons of fuel daily... but you need to stick to the rules. One more thing.... it will cost you about FOUR TIMES more to make your own power versus what you pay the utility company, not counting the cost of the gen or it's installation / maintenance. Basically you need to shut off things that are not important and you will be fine.
"The typical portable gen set..." And that's why I bought a more expensive Generac 4000XL, instead of a typical one. I was once without power for 3 days in the middle of a NY winter. I left the generator running 24/7 over those 3 days, and ran the oil furnace, oil hot water heater, 240v well pump, TV, lights, and everything else in the house (minus the oven and the electric clothes dryer). I went out to fill the generator's 4 gallon tank at 6AM and 6PM. Not once was the tank empty - and it usually only took about 2-3 gallons. Total gas used over 3 days was less than (3) 5 gallon cans. According to rupe53's calculations, a 'typical' generator would have munched through about 75 gallons of gas. The moral of the story is "don't buy a typical generator". Do your homework, and get something that will meet your power needs, without requiring you to keep 100 gallons of gasoline on hand.
@@username-mc7jw … Gotta read between the lines here. 1 gallon per hour on a 5 KW DRAW. With appliances running intermittently there will be peaks but the average draw after the first few minutes will be half of that. (maybe less if there are no kids at home) After a few hours the heat will cycle off and you will drop to around 1 KW per hour draw. IOW, 10 hours operation on about 5 gallons of fuel or less. Your mileage may vary depending on your personal habits. I have run a draw test on my own home in the evening with a few rooms worth of lights, TV, 2 computers, fridge, and heat cycling. The power use comes in at around 5 amps per leg, unless the water pump kicks in during a shower. I don't bother with running the set at night unless the temps are WELL below freezing. All I'm looking to do is maintain something over 50 degrees by morning. On a sunny 30 degree day I can open the drapes and let the sun keep the house at 60 while I go to work.
This is why you buy a dual fuel generator that can run on natural gas and propane.
Don't know what kind of generator you have but I get about 10 hours for 3.5 gallons. Just found a generator that runs ac, fridge, tv and lights for 16 hours on 3.5 gallons. 30amp
@@elmerwaltermeyer8340 The output of the generator when using propane is less than when using gas. The only benefit is if you have large propane tanks or natural gas attached to it.
Great video! I’m a lineman and a supervisor for our service department. This explains generators and how to hook them up in a very simple way that most anyone can understand.
I have a question that no video has answered. I'm installing an interlock in my breaker panel for the generator. Do I need to do anything with the neutral from the utility? Every video Ive seen just says to hookup generator live to the generator breaker. The neutral they don't specify if I need to isolate generator neutral and utility neutral.
@@craigf2137 - If your house was wired properly, the neutral should be connected to earth ground at the panel and there should be a heavy copper wire going to a ground rod nearby. The utility company may have connected the neutral at the transformer to ground as well, although this is not assured. The upshot is that no matter what happens within your residential wiring system, the neutral should always stay at ground potential and will not present a shock hazard to utility workers.
@@craigf2137 the neutral should be continuous if possible.
Special Note: excellent review. My added input is based on a 6 day ice storm and complete power outage. Out of 22 homes. Those without generators had houses freeze. That included pipes and cans of food. They lost every thing in their refrigerators too. Things defrosted. Houses with sump pumps had flooding in basements and under houses without basements. It was a mess. Those that had large generators like 5kw and up ran out of gas the first day and were siphoning gas out of cars to keep going but then had no gas to do important chores.
I purchased the smallest Honda generator at the time about 1200 watts. Still have it. It ran all night on a tank of gas or all day. I ran extension to the furnace (natural gas) and it kept the house toasty. I ran another cord to refrigerator and/or microwave. I was the only house that was running after three days. Everyone else went to hotels if the could find one. Hotels and eating out for families cost at least $1000 and the other losses about the same. I lost nothing. I ran all week on five gallons of gas. Car was fill and we didn’t have to eat out. We had a warm house, warm showers, hot food and it was like a mini camp out. We enjoyed popcorn on the fireplace and felt comfortable being together and not having to worry about the house being empty to potential vandals. I converted the same generator to try fuel so it runs on propane, easy to store for long periods and to natural gas. I can now plug into my barbecue outlet and run continuously with only periodic oil check. Last thing if you use gasoline get ethanol free gas from hardware (TruFuel). It won’t destroy your carburetor. When you periodically change oil, even if you don’t use it, run for 30 min or so till warm. If you have gasoline in it, run it out of gas completely. So only use enough gas for the amount of time you are going to run, even if you use ethanol free gas. Thats why i like propane or natural gas. Everything stays clean snd ready for use. Lastly have everyone in family, except kids, even a neighbor, know how to use. The only large generators i would use would be build in like Generac that run on natural gas or propane. Determine largest size generator by the minimum you can run and have at least a week of fuel. Remember in earthquakes you loose water, electric, gas. So the TriFuel comes in handy especially propane. As you may be in a tent. There an electric hot water pot, microwave, lights, ceramic heater, and radio/TV. Those that had generators in Northridge Earthquake were kings. Keep safe.
Nearly as much info as the actual video and all good. Thanks for posting.
This is great advice. Luckily I haven't had to learn the hard way, but I invested in a large generator and quickly learned that keeping it running on gas for multiple days would be an issue. I have pool equipment that needs to run while freezing, so I don't have the option of running a smaller generator; but my generator is tri-fuel, so I can run it off my natural gas, as long as it's still flowing. You are exactly right though, most people could keep everything running with a small inverter generator. They are much quieter and the fuel consumption is minimal. Champion makes some generators that are just as quiet as the Hondas, cost almost 1/2 the price, and run off propane.
I prefer to use a generator interlock switch which wasn't mentioned in the video. By far the easiest and most user friendly. In my case I paid a few extra bucks and purchased the interlock made by GE specifically for my panel. Between the interlock, power inlet box, 30 amp breaker, 10 AWG wire and all needed conduit it set me back about $180 total. Unlike a transfer switch which only allows you select a pre determined amount of circuits (usually 4,6 or 10) Also costs a lot more money, also has to be wired to each existing breaker you want to utilize. With a interlock switch you simply turn the main breaker off, turn the 30 amp interlock protected breaker on and it's up to you as far as which circuits you want to leave on or off. I flip the A/C off and I can leave everything else on. It's not like you're going to be running everything at once anyways. This is where simply thinking comes into play.
what a coincidence that i see your comment. i'm new to all of this and really not sure what i want...but after discussing with my electrician, this is the route that he recommends. i'm looking forward to the install.
I got the Generlink, it's the most simple. You don't even have to worry about remembering to flip the panel to the off switch like then interlock system...the Generlink blocks the power supply.
@@KhmerH20 take a look at some of the UA-cam videos of the Generlink
@@aholmes6612 Not all municipalities allow the gererlink, it's illegal to use in some, is expensive and must be installed by your power company.
@@vegasfordguy you're right. They're legal here, so my mistake.
My cost was about the same as wiring a transfer switch.
Good that you have alternative power.
Wow...I could only wish that all UA-cam presentations were as calmly and professionally communicated as this one! 10 out of 10!!!
And you should never evaluate a video again! This video is dangerous poor information and dangerous information.
@@davidhunt4291 in what way? I presume you’re some electrical company worker who thinks you’re more important than anybody else
@@sethtenrec Nope, not technician level, I'm a 30 year + engineer and truly understand the reasons for the plug shapes and functions. The 'idea' of having open plugs is stupid if one keeps it to themself, it should be criminal to share that idea. I suspect that any damages would make the presenter fully liable for damages.
Where did you see an open plug? Did you misunderstand the plug on the outdoor transfer switch?
Very good explanation. After a powerful failure this weekend, I'm definitely going to have a backup installed. This helped tremendously.
Great video! Easy to understand. After freezing in San Antonio, Tx for 4 days last week, we're wanting to be ready for "next time". Thanks!
So you missed the 4th option and the best in my opinion as far as price and ease of installation. Its a manual lock out on your main panel. You install it on your panel and its designed specifically for your specific panel and how it works is you install a (GEN IN) breaker closest to your main shut off and its just a metal sliding apparatus that will only allow your generator in breaker to turn on when the main is shutoff off and vice versa which makes it legal. Other then that its wired just like option two in your case minus the transfer switch and extra panel and breakers. I paid around $90 for the lockout device and installed it myself. I also installed the breaker and outside box and purchased a 50 amp RV cord that connects the gen to the house. I also installed a watt meter on each leg so I can see how much power I'm pulling off the wires and gen. I then can turn on what breakers I need in my main panel. It takes some power management depending on how much power needs you have and how big your gen is. I just used mine for 4 days in the big Texas deep freeze and power outage we just went through and it worked flawlessly except I did have to manage my power due to a septic system, electric water heaters etc. If I had all gas house it would have ran the whole house easily. On ebay if your search for generator interlock you will see the device.
Yup, generator interlock kit. Slide plate specifically designed for your particular panel. I put one in my house as well.
This is the way.
Thank you for the information.
Or the 5th option is a whole house standby generator with a automatic switch
@@dentonhoward5086 Yeah but that option is way too expensive for my area, I've only needed a generator maybe 10 times in 20 years and only around three times were for more then 24 hours with 3 days being the longest. It costs thousands of dollars to do that kind of set up, close to $10k in my case by the time you buy all the equipment, fuel source and storage, hire an electrician to hook it all up its stupid expensive and it mostly sits there year in and year out. I did my set up for under $1000. $700 for the generator and about $250 in all the hook up stuff. No way would I go the other route, not worth it. Same with solar, total waste of money in my opinion unless your young and plan to stay in your home more then 20 years but then its still stupid expensive and solar products are like computers, they are outdated pretty quick so your stuck paying for out dated stuff after a few years. The 4th option I mention above is by far the best bang for the buck for most people.
This is great ! At 7:30 I think option #3 the Generlink and turning off breakers to unessential items such as clothes dryer, etc makes the most sense. Never heard of one til now.
Turning off the clothes dryer makes even more sense when you consider that a majority of generators are 120v and home dryers are 240v
We have one, easy to use, approved by the local utility. We compared the cost of Generlink vs. a standby panel and it cost less. You could also take it with you if you move. You require an electrician and the Utility to have it installed in about 10 mins.
Just completed the break-in period and so far the unit is operating perfectly ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y . I was amazed by just how quiet this little guy is. I kept having to walk down the driveway to the generator to make sure it was still running. In fact, the most annoying noise coming from the set-up is a high-pitched chirping coming from the pressure regulator on the propane line. I suppose it's possible my other propane-powered generator's pressure regulator is making the same noise, but the generator itself is so loud I've never noticed it. Build quality so far is excellent. My only nit is the service panel is a little tricky to remove. I feel like I might break off one of the plastic tabs when bending it back. I probably just need to work out the technique, so will not hold it against Champion.Next week I intend to fully load the unit to charge a large battery pack and will update this review if there's any problem (3000W continuous load vs a rated 3100W capacity while using propane). Absent any trouble there, I'm 100% pleased with this purchase.
I was going to mention the breaker box interlock. It is by far the simplest solution. It ensures that you do not feed power back into the grid because it forces the main breaker to be off anytime the generator feed breaker is on. Just don't forget to turn off the breakers for your heaviest-draw items such as water heater and AC unit.
Very important. It would be a bad thing to back-feed power into the workers trying to restore the system. If you have any questions call your power company and ask before you do, it is free as they want safe clean power.
@@bff1316 The interloc system is as it states!!!! AN interlock system !!! Main breaker has to be OFF or the GEN breaker cannot be turned on !!! Idiot proof and legal !!! What Roy was refering to is to turn off ALL Circuit breakers before starting the generator and the main breaker HAS to be OFF to turn on the Generator breaker, then turn on the circuits you need, keeping in mind the output of your genwrator. My 10,000 Watt Gen will run the heat pump elec range, well pump !!! Pay attention when reading what other people write and UNDERSTAND what is written !!!!
Unfortunately this solution isn't legal in Canada. The regulation makers say that if you pulled the front cover off the panel you could defeat it. So it's not so simple for us.
@@RyanRiopel Too bad Canadians are NOT smart enough to use this system !!!!
@@wilburfinnigan2142 I'd rather be Canadian than be rude like you
Soo... gratifying when one comes across an empowering and educating video on UA-cam. This is life-enhancing. Five Stars for you.
I love Champion. I have three of the 2000w inverters. I started out with a 4000w on the back of my ice cream truck. I used it for seven years and it was still going strong when I sold the ice cream truck.
my family use to be in the dairy business =o
I just did a duel 30Amp breaker with a lockout bracket.
Shut off the main and any unneeded breakers. Attach generator to outside receptical and turn on generator breaker.
There's also the through the wall generator outlet kit. It's a 6way female on the interior plate, and a Gen hookup on the outdoor panel. It's completely independent of the utility and looks clean and neat in, and out. . 90 bucks
. . . to plug a few things into it on that one wall of the house?
@@snap-off5383 better than nothing but far from ideal
@@snap-off5383 open window, run 2 cords through, plug in two 3ways, place towel over window sash, close window. -Free
@@thefix2573 Connect to Main breaker box, use whatever you want in your house - also free.
I made dedicated outlets from generator to fridge, furnace (changed it to nonhardwire),deep freezer, and a couple of extra outlets. All wired separately from the rest of the house. So if the power goes out I start up the generator then switch the fridge, furnace and deep freezer to the generator outlets next to the grid outlets. Don't know if it's legal but it's not wired in any way to the grid. I was remodeling and rewiring the hole house to get rid of the wiring. Ran supply line out to a secure work room attached to garage. Also put in a generator outlet in work room to plug in an exhaust fan that's mounted in the wall so I can go in to refuel the generator.
Champion generators ftw! Had one sitting around for 3 years out in the opening and worked immediately after a new battery. Was dirty from rain wind and dirt.
Another option. I own the Champion 3550 generator with a RV outlet for ether 110 volt or 220 volts. I put a 50 amp capable power cord somebody gave me, from my garage door area into my basement putting an 8 outlet box over my furnace. I then had an electrician install an outlet between my refrigerator and our gas stove that needs an outlet with the other end of the wiring ending up at the 8 outlet box. He also wired an outlet to my tv/stereo/satellite. His labor/parts totaled $127.Both have no power without the generator connected and are brown in color indicating generator only while all other outlets in the house are white. The only modification to my generator was to make the ground BONDED by moving one wire in the generator from one connection to another. They sent a video how to do this very simple operation.
Don’t forget about generator safety ua-cam.com/video/I1jT3ANENvI/v-deo.html remember not to run your generator in wet conditions. See this video about keeping your family safe while using generators. Thank you
Thank you. After freezing for days in Texas I'm looking to get a generator and this video was very helpful. I am going to go with option 2 as option 3 limits you to the location of your meter and for me that doesn't work. Far side of my house where theft could easily occur
I would also consider a dual fuel or preferably a tri fuel generator. So you may have options for powering your generator.
@@NPAMike i bought a duel fuel generator myself so I don't have to worry about storing gasoline and gasoline going bad. Propane is more stable for long term storage for 10+ years. Plus I use propane for the grill. I swap the bottles when my grill is empty so it is pretty fresh. According to Ferrell Gas it is shelf stable for 10-30 years. www.ferrellgas.com/tank-talk/blog-articles/propane-s-shelf-life-makes-it-the-envy-of-gasoline-and-diesel/#:~:text=Rufus%20Youngblood%2C%20Director%20of%20Safety,shouldn't%20be%20a%20problem.
Another option. I own the Champion 3550 generator with a RV outlet for ether 110 volt or 220 volts. I put a 50 amp capable power cord somebody gave me, from my garage door area into my basement putting an 8 outlet box over my furnace. I then had an electrician install an outlet between my refrigerator and our gas stove that needs an outlet with the other end of the wiring ending up at the 8 outlet box. He also wired an outlet to my tv/stereo/satellite. His labor/parts totaled $127.Both have no power without the generator connected and are brown in color indicating generator only while all other outlets in the house are white. The only modification to my generator was to make the ground BONDED by moving one wire in the generator from one connection to another. They sent a video how to do this very simple operation.
This was so incredibly helpful! I am a single woman and live alone so your thorough explanation was absolutely perfect. Within 12 minutes, I now understand not only how to hook up a generator but what I need to do electrically to separate out the essential power I will need as well. Thank you very much. 💗
Glad it was helpful!
A few more minutes and you could wire up a house by yourself. Seriously, you will still need an electrician to install the transfer switch/panel not you, okay?
I bought a Champion 3650 watt generator a few days ago. I went through the 5 hr break-in period and changed the oil. We're all set for the winter. BTW, it started on the 1st pull, every time. So far, I'm impressed with it.
How noisy is it?
Watching this as I sit in below freezing weather in Houston, TX with no electricity very informative. Thank you 😊
Same girl I'm near lake Houston and our power went out last night
@@meme852369 I was lucky and had it for the first two days. Looks like I'll be finishing the week without it. Hope you are safe.
@@missmurder713713 ours came on for 4hrs then out again, thank god our fireplace is gas or we would definitely be sick
I went without power for the fist 34 hours of the storm and now that I have power back I'm looking up generator info. Lol!
Same! Already reached out to Generlink and they said that Oncor doesn't allow connection of their device. :-( Good luck with your Houston power provider...
One thing that should be mentioned is the ground wire. A portable generator comes grounded to its chassis. Some require you to disconnect the chassis ground and use the house ground. Leaving the generator chassis ground attached could create a ground loop. If, then, you ever use this generator camping or on a jobsite, you must reconnect the generator's chassis ground.
I think you're actually talking about whether the ground and neutral are bonded or floating. But you're right: if on a jobsite they should be bonded, but not if the gen is backfeeding a panel _unless_ the transfer switch opens the neutral wire.
I'm using a manual transfer switch ($319 Amazon, self-installed) with off-grid solar and batteries to enhance my electrical system, allowing the use of both at the same time. This leaves me with the generator port should I wish to enhance the solar/batteries when the grid is down. // I would never consider a generlink due to its limitations. // The last option you forgot to include is an automatic transfer switch which flips the circuits to generator from grid, then powers the generator on when the power goes out. Add a grand to the manual transfer switch price for automatic.
Just had panels installed on the house but apparently our area got the Texas snow storm last year looking at a way to use the panels during the day to charge batteries or install a generator link to the panel similar to the second vid.
Excellent video with great graphics. Thank you so much for taking the time to put this together.
Thanks so much!
Helped me understand generators is general and was so helpful knowing what to get to hook up a generator.
Another option. I own the Champion 3550 generator with a RV outlet for ether 110 volt or 220 volts. I put a 50 amp capable power cord somebody gave me, from my garage door area into my basement putting an 8 outlet box over my furnace. I then had an electrician install an outlet between my refrigerator and our gas stove that needs an outlet with the other end of the wiring ending up at the 8 outlet box. He also wired an outlet to my tv/stereo/satellite. His labor/parts totaled $127.Both have no power without the generator connected and are brown in color indicating generator only while all other outlets in the house are white. The only modification to my generator was to make the ground BONDED by moving one wire in the generator from one connection to another. They sent a video how to do this very simple operation.
Don’t forget about generator safety as well ua-cam.com/video/I1jT3ANENvI/v-deo.html everyone should see this safety video. Just hoping everyone stays safe. Thank you. Remember not to run your generator indoors and don’t operate your generator in wet conditions. Just reminding everyone to stay safe. Thank you
that generlink is what caught my eye on this video and will be looking into it because I just started building a new house.
Make sure you ask if power from generator goes thru Meter
If it does you might pay double for your power
@@mansardmanor3869 yea i didn't use it.
INTERLOCK KIT-
I have an interlock on my panel and just used it for the last 4 days: AMAZING item and a must for all homeowners.
I can run everything except the A/C and that's limited by the size of my generator.
I’ve been back feeding and was going to put in an automatic switch. Only recently did I discover the interlock. That’s definitely the way to go unless you really need automatic power. I can run my entire house with my generator so it will be far easier than the transfer switch.
@@Imwright720 what generator are you using and does it run the a/c
Rudy0311 Smith31b I have a gasoline Generac that’s 15k and it will definitely run the a/c. I have a 4 ton a/c. It will run everything no problem. I would not try to run the hot water heater, which is electric , at the same time. We lost power 9 days and 14 days after hurricanes and it was tested plenty. I just back-feed it. I Also have a 15k propane Generac which a friend gave me this year. It’s a 2006 and was never hooked up or run. I fixed a few parts and it runs perfectly. The box is a rust pile but the rest seems fine. . I ran it a couple of hours under a load but you’ll never know until you run it for days on end. I currently don’t have a propane source other than the small bottles. I’m looking at a 420lb bottle. I think it’s my best choice. I’m in a zero lot line neighborhood and you have to bury anything larger.
@@Imwright720 that's what I'm looking for I have a 2.5 ton a/c and according to the math that's what I need.
Rudy0311 Smith31b I have an older version of this. www.lowes.com/pd/Generac-GP-15000-Running-Watt-Gasoline-Portable-Generator/3010339?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-sol-_-google-_-pla-_-240-_-sosgenerators-_-3010339-_-0&cm_mmc=src-_-c-_-prd-_-sol-_-google-_-seasonal_and_outdoor_living-_-PLA_SOL_Seasonal+And+Outdoor+Living_High+Priority-_--_-0-_-0&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiIu0nsfH5AIVkobACh24cQeGEAQYASABEgK4L_D_BwE. It groans when it starts the a/c because of the huge surge but it does it. We had back to back hurricanes in 2005 and we lost power both storms. My wife doesn’t do no a/c.
This was very helpful. Thanks for explaining this so well with the pros and cons of each option.
This video on this link is also helpful ua-cam.com/video/I1jT3ANENvI/v-deo.html
I have a main disconnect at my panel. I have a large generator in my garage. When the power goes out for any length of time I first disconnect the power from the pole and then start up the generator. The power from the generator feeds the main panel thru my welder circuit. (60 amps). The longest I've had to run my generator is 5 days. With a full tank of gas the generator will run for 12-13 hours depending on usage. In 20 years I've only had to run the generator for multiple days 3 times. I've used it with my welder to provide mobile welding more that that. My one piece of advice I would give is to purchase your generator at a time when there is no emergency. You don't need a generator the size of mine. I purchased mine at a time of emergency and by the time I got to Lowes all the small generators were gone. That said, I'm glad I have the bigger one now. When we had a power pole that snapped there were on 4 of us that lost power. I was able to power up not only my house, but my neighbors as well. Everybody's situation is different. Chose what's right for you. And first and foremost, be safe. Being in the dark won't kill you but screwing around with electricity if you don't know what you are doing can kill you.
My electric company just sent a pamphlet out to everyone about the generlink. I've been researching the cost difference between it and a transfer switch. I still might go the transfer switch route for ease of replacement if anything goes wrong. The generlink I need is 950 with no install cost, so if that thing ever dies, it's gonna be relatively expensive to replace.
Generlink is the only way to go. Here's an analogy to explain why there really isn't even a "choice" to be considered
You have 5 senses: sight, smell, taste, touch and sound. Under normal conditions, you have access to all five. This is similar to the way the electrical system in your home is divided into different circuits.
Now, let's imagine that there's some type of event that causes you to lose all five of your senses at once. You're immediately plunged into a void where you feel nothing, see nothing, hear nothing, taste nothing and smell nothing. Your ability to experience anything is gone. The entire world vanishes in the blink of an eye. You're left stranded in this place where the only things that exist are the voice inside your head as it screams, and the suffocating wave of emotions that bury you. This is similar to what your home experiences during a power outage, or at least "would" experience, if it were human.
Now, you're trying to decide between a transfer switch, and a generlink. And your main concern is not the initial purchase price, but the cost to maintain the system over time. Specifically, you feel like the potential cost to replace the generlink due to product failure is too much, and that it would be cheaper to repair an issue with a transfer switch.
I don't wanna go off on a tangent, but I do want to make a couple of points. Think about the number of times in your life you have needed to replace a panel, or even a single breaker, due to mechanical failure. Not because you needed a larger circuit, or higher amperage, but because the existing device failed.
Now, think about the number of times you've had to call the power company to come replace your electrical meter because it failed, disconnecting your home from the mains.
Lastly, as a more general question, how many outlets have you replaced in your life due to product failure? I would exclude from this count any recepticals that have USB ports as well as 120, because from my experience, those recepticals break pretty often. Just plain old two socket recepticals you find in every home, how many have you replaced because they stopped working?
I'm willing to bet the sum of your answers to those questions isn't far off from 0. Because these components tend to last 30+ years. Which brings me to the next point - time.
From 2004-2009, the average time people stayed in a home before moving was 4.5 years. As of 2022, the data shows the average time spent is now just under 8 years. Why is this important? Because chances are, you'll move into a different home before you ever have to worry about repairing or replacing either the transfer panel or a generlink. Statistically, the odds of you staying in the same home for over 10 years is only 37%. I couldn't find any data beyond ten years, but it's pretty safe to assume that the odds decrease rapidly once you hit the 20-30 year mark when repairs would come into play.
The point being, you'll probably install this system from scratch on AT LEAST 3 different homes before the first install needs to be repaired. Here's another way to think about it. You have a 10% chance of being killed in a vehicle over your lifetime. Do you think about that when you get in a car? Before you start the engine, do you consider whether or not this trip is worth risking your life? Or do you just start the car and go? If you don't think about that when you drive, then it makes no sense to even think about the repair cost of these systems.
Back to the analogy.
While held captive inside the world ending void, you feel an ethereal presence enter your mind, speaking through your own inner voice, this entity offers you two choices.
The first choice allows you to experience SOME of your senses, but not all of them. You have to choose 2 senses to loose, and in exchange, you will regain the other 3. That's similar to how a transfer panel works. You're making a compromise by splitting your main panel into 2. Everything on the main panel will be lost during an outage, but the few circuits you selected to move to the transfer panel will continue to work.
The second choice allows you to regain ALL of your senses, transforming the void into something that very closely resembles the world as you knew it before. You're still bound within the void, you're still a prisoner, inside the walls of your home the emptiness no longer exists. It's only when you look out a window that you're reminded of the endless abyss in which you now reside. However, there is one catch. You regained all your senses, but they aren't your "real" senses. You're still in the void where nothing exists, so your perception of these "senses" is an approximation, a simulation of the world you came from. You're still in the void. And as such, there are limits to the level of perception your senses can generation at any given time. For the most part, everything is fine. But if you overstimulate one sense, you may reduce or loose the function of another, temporarily. For example, if you burn your hand on a hot stove, you might not be able to hear yourself scream in pain, or see out of one eye. But this is only temporary, and only during overload conditions.
That's what a generlink is. It does exactly what it looks like it does. It connects to the home the same way the main power does, so as far as the house is concerned, there's no difference. Everything works the same, you don't have to cherry pick what circuits you want to use, and as long as you keep your entire wattage below the generators output, it's like nothing ever happened. But if you do draw too much power, maybe by using a microwave, or a space heater, in combination with a bunch of other stuff, you might see lights dim, or tvs turn off.
I think the choice is clear. Idk why anyone would get a transfer panel. It makes sense for an outbuilding, where you only need power sometimes, and running a main line would be unnecessary.
But for a house? Why do all that extra work rewiring everything and running a dedicated outlet to the exterior wall when you can just add a plug to the meter?
Lots of good info on this video, Thank you for sharing!
Fantastic video with easy to understand detail about each approach! Excellent work!
Great detail and clear explanation how all methods work to generate power in your house. Well done.
I made an interlock $6 for the sheet metal and $40 for the generator plug box
I have a 10K generator. I use an interlock with a 50 amp cord. I prefer this over the transfer switch. It is extremely safe, easy to use, and powers my house.
@@fredblassie3212 the main breaker and the sub circuits need to be on the same panel and the interlock devise is panel brand specific. Google interlock and you will see many different brands supporting several diffetent panels @several diffetent prices, but not too expensive.
@@bobgieser2943 Do 120V generators work in this setup, or do you need a 240V unit?
@@flatpopfx6190 it depends on what the needs are. If you have an older house or a small house with a 100 amp panel, you can use a 100 amp circuit on the generator. Good way to verify is to call an electrician, or call the power company that services you. They will help clarify what power generator you need. Hope this helps.
Don’t forget about generator safety as well ua-cam.com/video/I1jT3ANENvI/v-deo.html here’s a video about keeping your family safe while using generators. Especially keep children safe also. Thank you
@@flatpopfx6190 if you want all of the circuits in your house to work, you need 240. I guess you could route the feed from a 120 into the panel, but it would only work on one side.
Well here is the video I was searching for all day... A great big thank you for making this super clear ! We had a big storm the cut the power to our city for a week now and we are thinking about a generator but I wanted to know what could be done with the generator to help us out during the power outage !
I bought the Generlink, and although it works well (so far), the cost ended up being similar to what it would have cost me to install a transfer switch sub-panel next to my main panel. I also have some real concerns about the necessarily exposed power cord from the Generlink to my generator, because I cannot locate my gennie literally right next to the meter pan. So the relatively long run (say 45 feet) from the meter pan to my generator is a neoprene cable which is exposed to the bad weather. haven't had a problem yet, but we'll see.
The problem with Generlink is that some utilities don't allow them. I know mine in NH does not, something I found out when I wanted to have one installed.
Best instructional video on generators ever!! Thank you for this. Straightforward explanation, excellent graphics. Thank you for posting this!
Cutler Hammer makes listed/approved Mechanical Interlock cover to replace the standard cover on some of their panels. There is a reserved position for the generator entry breaker. Simple, safe and inexpensive but without a provision to see if the power has resumed.
Yup that's how I did it on my Siemens. I have a 30amp for my generator with an interlock. I back feed it from my connection outside and I can not turn the breaker for my generator on unless the main breaker is shut off. Zero chance of back feeding. But like you said no way of telling if the power has come back on.
Justin buy a Powerback alarm. Inexpensive, Easy and simple to install and runs off a 9V battery. You’re welcome.
@@drbobvs I look at them thank you
Great video very Informative. What are the expense differences in the 3 different options to hunt the generator up to your house?
Great information and very nice generator. God knows the winter we'll have. I like this being it's not complicated
Option #2 is the best. I did an install with a manual transfer switch, and I have less than 1K in the entire setup including the generator.
Just the Generlink is going to cost about $1.5K!
@@jimichan7649 Try $900-1100 USD depending on options. LIke bluetooth and long cord. Plus less than an hour of electrician time, and maybe a $50 permit. Plus generator of course. I highly doubt that any setup with $1K parts including a quality generator, transfer switch, transfer panel (which requires rewiring if you change your mind as to which circuits to power) and cable is capable of what ours does nor as convenient.
[In fact, here, sometimes the hydro crews who have to cut your power for a moment will do the wiring instead of you or an electrician, and all you need is an inspection).
@@fromagefrizzbizz9377 Google: "How much does it cost to install GenerLink?"
@@jimichan7649 "Average" in USD. But I don't need to google for what it cost *me*. The unit itself about $1000 (CDN), which right now is about $750USD. Then installation plus permit for $175 CDN. All up, including taxes, a bit under $1100 USD. Furthermore, given our own circumstances, the ability to switch to emergency power simply by pushing the generator start button, without having to choose which circuits a-priori to connect, and provide power to all the electronic gizmos everywhere we have (not counting certain bits on UPS) - no blacked out rooms, any device in the house can be powered with some care, there's no contest. We can even fire up a few baseboard heaters if we have to. No contest. At all. None.
@@fromagefrizzbizz9377 Did you do it yourself? That's pretty affordable.
My grandpa was a lineman for NSP and he said that whenever they'd go to a neighborhood to restore power they'd first drive around and look for the one or two houses with power to make sure their generator was hooked up right so they don't get s surprise when they start working on the lines.
Brandon Link yeah, but now in my neighborhood it’s almost 100% with generators.
A real emp the gas pumps will not work because they run by eletrick
Great vid even 2 years later. Contemplating my options in moving to a new home in Texas that got hit by the ice storm a year ago. Solar panels are on the roof but would be useless if grid is down so researching batteries and a switch and generator options.
Thank you for this video and all the information about the legalities and safety of using a generator. Many thanks.
You can also watch this video on this link
ua-cam.com/video/I1jT3ANENvI/v-deo.html please click on it.
Such a great explanation. One of the best lessons I’ve gotten, Bar none. Thank you!
This is the Bob Ross of generators. There are no power outages, just happy generators.
LMFAO. You have won the internet's.
I agree! I felt calm the whole presentation.
Ha ha! That's the best I've heard in a long time!
Possibly the best UA-cam comment ever.
We'll just put a happy little generator here. And.... some happy little transfer switches here.
Are there any smalish (3kw-4kw) portable generators that can use natural gas (without converter)? Seem hard to find smaller ones. Also, what about automatic transfer switches and auto-start generators?
Quite interesting and visible explanation. All 3 methods can work with low and mid power generators to supply house.
As for me, the most useful type of connection is a modification of method 3, but using ATS unit with appropriate generator. In this case user can run/stop generator in auto mode or manually. Also this unit will keep battery alive for generator. Even kids can run/stop generator manually using simple order of actions (of course this is possible after several iterations with supervisor to show and explain).
You did a great job explaining how this works. Great video! One question I have about the transfer switch. When you're running your generator during a power outage, how do you tell when the power is restored, so you know to unhook your generator? Thanks!
There are actually little alarms you can buy that wrap around the main power lead from line power. When electricity flows through them, then the alarm sounds. There are also automatic transfer switches that can detect electricity or lack thereof-that's how most of your larger standby generators control when they turn on or not.
look outside and see if the lights are on at your neighbors house haha
@@johnpeters9903 Usually one of your neighbors will call you! ;))
@@johnpeters9903 he is 22 miles away , he may also have a generator
This is by far thee best darn explanation of generator hook up on you tube....period.i'm going with option #3
That's the choice I made after my electric company had approved it. Another reason I preferred the Generlink is the whole house surge protection option I could get. My house was wired with two 100 amp panels, so panel surge protectors aren't so good.
I have one of those transfer switches in my house in Florida it work great had a 10000 watts generator welder it power the whole house I did have to turn the water heater off for a while it got me through 3 hurricanes
here in NS Canada my coworker had a Generlink installed last year and it cost $1700. I just got an estimate for a Generator Panel and it was $1200 taxes included. Another thing to point out about backfeeding power is that the TRANSFORMER will work in reverse and STEP UP the generator power, making the lines even more dangerous for lineworkers.
After the last hurricane where I had been using a small diesel Genset, I upgraded to a portable gas 17.5 Kw, adapted it to propane, put a 500-gallon tank in the ground, and installed a Manual Transfer Switch at the meter which supplies the whole house via the 14-50 cord. No more aggravation after the storm, it can even power my heat pump water heater and HVAC system. I switch off the breaker for the electric stove and dryer lest the wifey forgets we are on emergency backup power and its operations are as normal as can be. I can even charge my Tesla and skip the long lines at the limited gas stations that are up post-storm which we had for the old antique ICE car. I looked at the Generlink but it was limited to only 30 amps. We normally use a clothesline to dry clothes.
Thanks for sharing!
Drive your Tesla around after a storm ? I just jump in my helicopter..
I just had a manual transfer switch installed. The generlink seems to eliminate the step of switching from main breaker to manual transfer switch. Both require the elimination of high amperage breaker combinations that could trip the breaker on the generator. To me, the automatic function of the generlink is a nice feature that eliminates a step, but I feel safer with something that I can see, namely the manual transfer switch.
GeneHG reply to @Craig Tucker
You were probably referring to a commercial transfer Switch, but your reference to a NO/NC relay caught my attention.
It is a good thought to use a standard relay as a transfer switch, unfortunately that is a very bad idea. A UL or otherwise approved transfer switch has a special relay inside. A standard relay has a very small distance between the NC (normally closed) and NO (normally open) contacts. If a standard relay is used, when the relay transfers, a short circuit between the Utility-Power-source and the Generator-circuit, may occur. The reason is that there may be an ark when the NC contacts open. The arc may still be there when the NO contacts close. The ark will provide a low voltage drop between NC and NO and will be strengthened due to the high voltage and current available. The short is likely to remain until something opens the circuit, thereby possibly ruining a lot of expensive things.
A short can occur for transfer from Utility power and also for transfers from Generator power.
Of course, if the utility power or Generator power is off, the arc doesn't occur. A standard relay may work for a while, but if someone doesn't turn off the Generator power before a transfer occurs, there is likely to be a short circuit. If a momentary power failure or abnormal operation of the relay occurs, there may be an arc during transfer of the relay.
Some older or cheap transfer switches use standard relays, but there are generally two separate NO relays, electrically interlocked so that one cannot be energized while the other is closed. If there is only one relay like many on E-bay, find something else.
Tried the one relay approach several times, always a disaster. A special transfer relay has a large clearance between the NC and NO contacts, allowing time and distance to dissipate the arc. The special transfer relay may also have arc dissipating plates adjacent to the contacts. These metal plates attract the arc, cool it and break it into smaller portions. The special transfer relay may also have a magnet that causes the arc to follow a curved path, thereby causing the arc to extinguish quicker.
All of these things are checked thoroughly when the approval agency tests the Transfer Switch under maximum expected operating conditions.
Transfer switches transfer safely, but they have a problem. If the generator voltage is low for some reason, the Transfer Switch relay may energize, but it is powered from the Generator, and may not have enough force to do the Transfer. The coil of the Transfer Relay will overheat and burn out. The coil bore usually shrinks as a result of the heat, thereby preventing manual transfer. I am amazed that there aren't fuses in the transfer coil circuit.
This is the most amazing video. The animation is too notch and extremely professional for a UA-cam channel.
Subscribed and Thank you.!
Thank you. You’ve pointed me in the right direction on which method I will use.
This video is really top notch. I think it should come with the portable generators as part of the instructions. Too many "Bens" out there. Hot work is hazardous enough without him. Suggestion for a sequel, explain the fully automatic set up like you have with this level of detail. The only thing I would have added is a little bit on how much watching the portables need if the outage is of a significant length and that they simply are not built to run 24/7 for weeks.
Check the oil each time you put gas in them. After a prolonged, outage, change the oil afterward, so it's ready the next time you need them. Don't fuel engines "on the fly", because not only is there concern of fuel spills on the hot exhaust, you don't want to risk allowing the engine to run too low on oil. Shutting it down, checking the oil during a brief cool down,(adding if needed) then filling up, will ensure your safety, and the reliability of the generator, if needed for weeks at a time.
the generlink sounds like an automatic transfer switch with more steps, good video and good information
That is all it is
You mean less steps? It's much easier to install
@@specialopsdave interesting
@@jeeper426 You just need an electrician to fiddle with your meter, and don't have to wire a new outlet (inlet?) for the generator.
@@specialopsdave I can see How it would be easier since the electrician doesn't have to split the feeds and create a fed for heart the genset to the ats and critical load panel and you don't have to install a control panel that handles starting the genset without intervention from the user, lights go out, Start the generator and turn on the loads you need
What if I want continuous power without annoying line workers? Do I need to be on a continuously charging telco battery circuit and inverter?
When we have bad weather we have power outages in the area where I live. This year we had a freeze here in Texas and we were without power for 4 and half days. I have a generator interlock kit in my house I installed 6 years ago. I ran my champion generator almost 24/7 and only shut it off once a day to let it cool down check oil.
THANK YOU So Much. The Best information I've found on the internet or anywhere!
Don’t forget about generator safety as well ua-cam.com/video/I1jT3ANENvI/v-deo.html keep your family safe while using generators. Thank you
Another option that is on the shelf at Home Depot...
it is a screw in lockout kit.
It is a slider that blocks the main disconnect to turn on the generator connection breaker.
Super that is called a breaker panel INTERLOCK !!! They work great !! Have 2 for years !!!
@@wilburfinnigan2142 it really is the simplest and best solution. With an interlock, it's impossible for even the dumbest of humans to have the gen feeding up into the grid. In my area, they are the wiring inspector's favorite way to skin the cat.
Great graphics, you really did good work here.
You have a brilliant idea here I think. I just made a genorater for the second time (really just cleaned some bugs from the first one) and I back fed the house and worked fine. Second time back feeding the house the power went from the wall and fried my genoraters power inverter. So to solve this problem I need a safe cord with a breaker. Power bars offer that and are already built for safety standards. The question is, why are stores not selling safe cords to back the house? If the breaker tripped because the main was forgot, having a breaker trip on the cord would be legal. Only using 120v extension cord 300w inverter for lights. Keep in mind safety first, the reason I built a generator was to keep people out of the house trying to sell the next bit using "legal" as a term to collect money and power. The problem is alot of items are unessisary, also they installed items I didn't ask for such as split breakers! Legal doesn't mean much when that happens
You might want to add into the video a device that is installed on the face of the breaker distribution panel. It is a mechanical interlock device that installs to prohibit a portable generator dedicated breaker to be closed when the line side of the power input breaker is closed. It is used to allow the dedicated portable generator feeder breaker to be closed when the line side feeder breaker is open. It also prohibits the line side feeder breaker to closed when the portable generator breaker is closed. The device slides in either direction to prohibit the appropriate breaker from closing. The isolates the home distribution panel from the line side thereby prohibiting power to go to the power lines. It also prohibits the line side power upon being reenergized from feeding the home and the portable generator. That would result in paralleling the portable generator from the power lines and most likely result in an out of phase situation resulting in catastrophic failure of the distribution panel and the portable generator and might just burn the house down. Thanks enjoyed the video and gave me a couple of hints to look at.
Yep and you can add an audible alarm so you know when the power comes on . Very simple
@@TeamTnA44 How do you do that....since the house is isolated from the regular power? What do you tap into?
@@spacecoastz4026 The audible alarm isn't isolated like the rest of the house circuits. It remains connected to mains (though a breaker of course).
you forgot to mention the 4th option which is legal as well.. the Generator Interlock kits: involves installing a single, or double throw 30 amp breaker (2 din breaker to occupy both 110v bus bars, allowing you to supply 220v to the panel). the breaker is installed typically shifting the breakers on the right side of the panel down 2 slots. the cover for the circuit brakers panel is modified with the appropriate Interlock kit for your panel model, and breaker type. the double throw breaker you just installed is then wired via rated cable to a generac input plug rated to handle the amperage your generator is rated to output (typically 30AMPs for a portable generator). cover with the new interlock is re-installed.. now when your power goes out, you startup your generator, go to the fuse box, disconnect the MAINS breaker (typically (100-200AMPS) by switching to the OFF position (disconnecting you from the grid), and turning off all household breakers, then you slide the interlock up, turn on your new double throw GEN breakers, and hook up the generator cable.. you are now powering both 110v bus bars, now return to the panel and sloly switch on necessary items you wish to power... furnace, fridge, lights... be wary not to power inductive loads such as electric cook tops, clothes dryers etc.. generators do not typically deal well with these types of loads.. I have this setup installed in my house, and works great in emergencies, especially in winter when we typically lose power.
The bolt on double pole option is not legal or approved when using a bonded to frame generator. Most new generators are neutral bonded to frame, In this cease you also need to switch the natural wire.
@@donmac4612 it is legal,and it works... once you arent connected to the grid you can do whatever you want... the interlock does this.. and there is no way to have generator power flowing back into the grid. bonding is an entirely different issue, but yes you can bond to the frame or change the NEUTRAL wire.
@@killahjeep I think you didn't understand. you power panel has the neutral to ground connection, so your generator should not. We run into this on RVs all the time. The small generators don't have the neutral to ground connected and you have to make a N-G Plug to make the connection otherwise the Power conditioner won't let in power. Construction generators usually have the N-G tied together since they normally are not tied to a house circuit. Not sure why the small generators are different but they are.
Interlocks won't work if the main disconnect is separate from the panel, like what we have. (100/200 amp fusible disconnect/breaker in the garage/at the meter, panel elsewhere in the building)
@@nathantmnguyen then not ot wont work/be legal for you, you would have to install a generator transfer switch, or change over your panel to a style that will accept it.
Outstanding video. Pro-level communication skills - both the dialogue and the graphics that support the narrative. Well done.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Your explanation is very descriptive. Thank you.
What about the generator interlock? Not sure if it's legal everywhere, but it does meet code for my area. Its a simple piece of stamped metal that has cut-outs for the main switch and a 30a breaker. The interlock allows the homeowner to power the panel with only one source of power at a time. Either line power, or generator power. To use the interlock, you simply turn the main power off and slide the metal plate into position. This opens a cutout section of the interlock to align with the 30a breaker assigned to the generator feed. Its quite simple in practice and is much cheaper to buy and install than a separate transfer panel or utility installed meter base.
Did this at my house just last month. The cost for the power inlet, the interlock, and a 10 gauge cable was $175 from Amazon. Another $125 for an electrician and I'm good to go.
The kit is UL listed. My electrician told me its safe. It also comes with stickers to mount in your panel so the licensed electrician can sign and date it Makes the inspectors happy.
It depends on the generator. An interlock kit should usually be used with a "Floating Neutral" Generator. Most of the portable generators I've seen have a "Bonded Neutral" from the factory, and should be used with a Switched Neutral Transfer Switch. It would usually work, it just wouldn't be NEC compliant.
Correction Meets all NEC requirements for optional standby systems (Article 702)
Keith am
Never heard of the generlink but it sounds like the way to go.
They're quite nice and suitable for medium-large portable generators and least-trouble/convenient.
They're a much cheaper version of the units used in permanently installed generator installations except that generlinks don't autostart the generator.
Transfer switch installation quote was $1200 up here in remote Alaska, so we go with simple extension cords to freezer, water pump, wifi router, refridge, lights.
A conversation truly appreciate and informed. 👍
Learned something new today thanks.
Something that may be overlooked is finding a model that can be started even if the battery for electric-start runs down. Apparently not all models can do this (some use electronic solenoid to turn on fuel) - and its less convenient but I've had to start ours yanking on the rope once when the battery was flat and I was VERY glad I was able to start it without needing to replace/charge the battery first.
Generators need to be maintained . That means an oil change every 50-100 hours of run time, maintaining clean and fresh fuel, and maintaining your battery with a battery tender. I’d you have a dead battery, you have failed in your maintenance and preparation
It’s good to have a small top up Solar panel to help prevent your battery going flat. Also good to have a clear sided battery to check Acid levels if available … one of my generators has a remote start fob which is nice … a gel cell of sufficient capacity can be used instead of the usual Wet Acid battery as can a Lithium Ion pack . Also a cheap voltage meter from the battery is a good investment …
Great point, even the best maintained small engine powered equipment, that isn't used frequently, can have a starting battery fail without warning, great idea to have a backup starting method (pull cord) as you can't plug it into a battery charger during a power outage.
INvest in a Noco BoostPlus. POrtable jump starter charger. I used mine to jump start my generator and the electric start worked. The Noco holds it's power for along time. I've had mine stored for over 6 months and it still jump started my sons car. It also has USB outs so you can charge electronics if needed.
Where I live I was able to wire my own home. I put in a manual transfer switch for the whole house. I also wired a sub panel with its own transfer switch. The sub panel has loads like fridge,freezer, lights,tv internet and oil heaters. A small Honda 2000 will run those loads overnight on less than a gallon of gas. We have a big generator that has a remote start when we need the pump. Our range is propane and we have wood heat backup. We lost power twice this month and about 10:times this year.
An electrician told me of a safe and most inexpensive way to do it which has worked great. I plug my heavy generator cord into my Dryer outlet (240v of course) turn off my main breaker in the house and it feeds everything I want powered up. The cord I just ran through the dryer vent pipe to use temporarily until I get it permanently installed. I ran all my lights 2 refrigerators and 2 deep freezers (all on at once to test it) no problem on a 5,500 watt generator.
Thank you for sharing this information! Unchartered territory for me.
John
Don’t forget about generator safety as well ua-cam.com/video/I1jT3ANENvI/v-deo.html stay safe
I have my off grid house backup generator hooked up through clipsal switches in the main fuse box no feedback to the net because I am totally off grid hello from Australia
It does not matter if you are on the "grid" or not. If you back-feed the primary power source, you can be in big trouble.
Excellent video and presentation. Very well done !
I thoroughly enjoyed it !
Extremely informative!
Thank you for this video. I just purchased a generator and dont have time to get the switch installed on the house which all other videos ONLY mention...Will invest in later.
i have a UL approved main breaker lockout slide fitting on my panel. very simple, about $150 years ago. locks out main breaker when generator breaker is used. powers the entire panel. doesn't get any easier
It does eat up the breaker slot(s).
I have a 60 amp breaker in garage on 100 amp box. 1 cable feed. Cut main off in house which disconnects from grind & disconnect at meter. Double safety, no feed back. Powers whole house.
D Jones are you also disconnecting your neutral? If not your illegal and putting linemen at risk with ground fault potential
Thanks Richard Dreyfus. Learned a lot. Loved you in "Jaws" and "Mr. Holland's Opus!" 🙃
I have a solar system and have been considering adding a battery (to allow the panels to produce when the grid is down) and a portable generator to fill in when needed. Any thoughts on the best way to connect? I'd like the panels to be the primary source for the battery charger, followed by the grid (if available and more power is needed) and the generator (if the grid is down) - I don't mind having to manually switch between grid & generator. What kind of transfer/switching would be best for this?
Get ready to spend more money if you want to keep your solar going during a power outage. You also need to be aware of the requirements of 230 volt equipment you have in your home. There is some new equipment coming on the market that allows you to use your generator and your solar panels at the same time.
I'm sorry to contradict you on something in your video but I'm an electrician and have installed transfer switches and emergency panels before. Buying a transfer switch and emergency panel and paying an electrician to install it can cost two to three thousand dollars...The 40 amp generlink and generator cable and one hour of labor for an electrician should cost one thousand dollars or less... Huge difference between the two... I like your videos, keep up the good work.
I have a Generlink and agree with you
Tyson Burns $2000-3000.....where is this in Cali.....I paid $400 for a xfer switch & $125 for the cable.....did it myself and even then it only took me 4 hours to complete the job....
One of the best and most informative videos on connecting a generator - ever. Many thanks. And in a very soothing voice too.
The way you talk makes it so simple to understand. Great Job (Likes, Subscribed and Commented.) 🙂
Great video. I've used my Champion during the 10-day power outage we had in Michigan during the snow storms of 2013/14.
I wouldn't say my connection at the time was really 'legal', per se, lol.
In regards to living in a mobile home, I have lived in a few and they all had a meter and dis-connect on either a pole or meter pedestal. Since it was the 1st panel after the meter it was considered a Main' panel and the panel in the home treated as a 'SUB' meaning neutral and gound was/IS isolated.
The outside panel is set up so it can be locked. I don't use a transfer sw. or an interlock either, BUT
in keeping with the spirit of the law and not wanting to hurt anyone, I shut off outside dis-connect
and LOCK IT. then shut off 'Mains' in house.I plug into the dryer end first so I am not walking around with the male end swingin' around with juice on the prongs.
Great video, I was told that we should flip the main breaker on the main box when power goes out, then kick on generator and then use cords or installed transfer switch. And when power is restored, either by watching neighbors house or calling power co, then shut off generator, flip main breaker back on, is that the correct sequence? thanks
you might want to also turn off breakers for the oven, dryer and AC compressors or electric heaters.
Transfer switch u mean by change over? We call it change over here in Asia 😂
Great video i love it!a and would strongly recommend it to any homeowner; i know when we got hit by a hurricane; 1st thing i did was to SHUT OFF the main breaker outside the home; 2nd is make a double male plugs; 3rd is find at least one main circuit in the house; 4th run and 2nd line to my Moms' house 150yrds away, and find a main circuit in her house; with a 3500watt champion generator also to power a 1/2hp water pump; I would strong recommend a contractors electrical SPLITER for addition lines, and then 5th hook a water line to Moms' house outside faucet from one of our outside faucets (being that we have a 10,000gallon water tank outside NO public water available) and WHA LAA we had water and electric for 9days while the power company, internet company, phone company hooked all the wires back into business
You didn't mention generator interlock switch. Do you have an opinion on that ?
great overview
You’re everywhere Mr Gng.🤘
Fancy seeing you here! Probably a good time to dust off the Champion. Take care.
I have 10 of this o love 💘 them
We have a camper outlet that looks like that can we use that outlet for a generator
The easiest way was not mentioned here but you must have 2 spaces available in your breaker box. Like #2 you have a breaker that supplies electricity from the generator to whatever you want to feed, except this breaker isn't in its own box, it's in the main panel with an interlock. You must turn off the main breaker, start your generator, then turn on your transfer switch (breaker) that's then feeds the whole panel. If your generator isn't big enough to feed the whole house mark the breakers to stay on and then turn the others off when you turn the main breaker off.
There is one more option. Interlock Switch which is easy to do plus the cost to do it is way cheaper than the Generkink which runs in the $300 - $500 range plus the cost of the electrician and power company coming out at the same time to install it and it’s way cheaper than the Transfer Switch that cost $250 - $400 with a lot of wiring to do. I did my whole home setup for $150 bucks and in about 20 mins.
Mercorey which interlock switch did you use?
John Boatright I have a GE fuse panel and Home Depot and Lowe’s both carry a universal interlock that not only works with GE panels but also some Square D panels as well. Here is what I brought for like $53.00. PowerMark Gold Load Center/Generator Interlock Kit
www.homedepot.com/p/GE-PowerMark-Gold-Load-Center-Generator-Interlock-Kit-THQLLX1/100674082#customer_reviews
@@mercorey3258 Interlock a *fuse* panel? How does that work?
@@fromagefrizzbizz9377 I brought my interlock protection switch from Home Depot. It is a universal one that works with several electrical panels and once you install this safety switch onto you panel where your “Main” circuit breaker is and the “generator” circuit breaker is that will only allow you to have one on or the other on at any given time. (It won’t allow both breakers on at the same time)So in other words, you can not turn the “generator” breaker ON unless the “main” breaker is turned OFF and vice-versa. So you will never be able to back feed up the line and electrocute a utility worker. So with mine, if the power goes out and I start my generator up and plug it into my outlet that is connected to the main panel, all I do is turn the “Main” breaker to OFF and that will allow me to slide the interlock upward in front of the Main breaker and then I can turn the Generator switch to ON because the switch isnt blocking the generator breaker to move in that position because I slide it upwards and it is now in front of the Main breaker blocking it so that I can not turn the Main breaker on now. And in order to turn the. Ain breaker back on, I will have to turn the generator breaker to the off position and that will allow the switch to slide downwards and block the generator breaker from being turned on and then I can turn the Main breaker back on.
@@mercorey3258 There may be a few interlocks legal in Canada, but CSA (and hence CEC) prohibits any such device that doesn't work when you pull the panel, require any modification to existing parts or futzes around with field-installed tiebars plus some other odds and ends.
An interlock that works with "several electrical panels" is almost certainly one that's not going to work, let alone be legal here.
The two Square D interlocks I found in US HD would only work on Square D Q0 breakers, and break CSA on at least 1 and possibly three grounds (pun intended). Field-installed tiebars. "Template for drilling holes"??? Etc. There are no interlocks in the Canadian HD catalog. Nor do these devices switch neutral, which *could* be a problem with GFCI'd circuits.
There are two principle differences between US and Canadian codes. Generally (in the US), it's not illegal to violate applicable code (there's two national codes, and states may have their own). Some states don't require inspections for DIY (does for electricians), so you can effectively get away with almost anything there, unless an Insurance company dings you in a claim.
In Canada, compliance with code is *mandatory*, period. Violating it can (rarely, but can) land you in jail and/or significant fines.
The other thing I noticed when I was intimately familiar with both NEC and CEC, is that CEC tended to trust electricians a bit more, but wanted to make it bulletproof so that homeowners couldn't kill themselves no matter how stupid they were. NEC a bit more the other way.
CEC gives you two outs: Once a device is CSA approved, ANYTHING the instruction booklet says can be done, is legal. Because the booklet is part of the approval *too*, so if the instructions say you can do something, you can even if the CEC rules seem to prohibit it. The other is that the inspector can approve variances to code if they think it's appropriate(/safe on a case-by-case basis and permit you to do it. For example, our local code absolutely prohibits Al wiring in residential, but if you ask ahead of time and it makes sense, they'll allow it as long as you follow their instructions on how to do it to the letter. For example, many years ago, an electrician asked for a variance on a 100A underground feed to our garage. The cost difference between Cu and Al was over $1000. The inspector approved it, but he had to inspect *every* connection to see the connections were made, greased and taped to his instructions.
The long winded shit above boils down to one thing: IF the instructions for your panel/breaker combo says you can use a specific model of lockout, you can (I've not seen any that say that). Or if you can convince an inspector to let you, you can. Good luck with that.
Thank you. I now have considerable more knowledge about generators than I did before listening to you video.
Excellent video. You make it very easy to understand.