Was about 20 mins in before I realized I had climbed that route! Thanks so much Bobby, that wall holds a special place in my heart, so great taking beginners on easy fun multipitches in the area with no crowd, and where I did my first multi trad leads! Can’t wait for the snow to melt and get back to it!
From every video I've seen of with the two of you, Bobby is such a humble dude. Chuckling at the thought of him hanging off a fresh route working in those last few bolts with a silent (almost cheeky) grin on his face. Like a happy mystic bolting monk.
I appreciate you bolting for the person who is just getting into leading the rating as opposed to bolting for the more experienced climber on an easy for them climb.
I really enjoy these kind of videos. - climbing related (trad, sport, multi-pitch) - showing the whole process - thoughts about technical aspects - thoughts about climbing ethics - educational - with some fine wit excellent job a big thank you to Bobby and Ryan (+also the patient belayer)
Seeing Bobby on video in the garage, he his a nice dude. Seeing him in his natural element: He is awesome, kind, methodical, skilled, careful ... He is not the kind of guy that wants attention, but he is the kind of guy that enjoys a good listener.
I've never even climbed a pebble in my life, but this channel gives off an incredibly positive vibe of the whole climbing community. So incredibly wholesome!
I really liked the clip at 20:10. It’s very representative of us route developers. We spend so much money on placing bolts and replacing bolts that we don’t have any money left over to buy a new matching pair of shoes.
It’s nice to see someone putting in routes that are aimed at newer climbers. So much of route development where I am is done by high end sport climbers. Putting in anything new under 5.12 or thereabouts would be frowned upon.
Besides this being a cool video, I love you put in the time to develop some beginner friendly routes. Having gone through beginner grades only a few years back I very much remember how scary “easy” routes can be. This is a great way for newer climbers to safely gain experience and enjoy climbing.
12:33 Very true, let the tool due the work, don't force it. This is true for portable band saws as well while cutting rebar. You will wear down the blade so much faster if you add force rather than just letting it cut. A few seconds is not worth the price for more blades.
Ryan got so genuinely nervous when Bobby weighted his personal on the drill bit. 😱 Great video guys, love your work and thanks for bolting something beginner-friendly!
Wow..watching him clip his personal lanyard TO THE BIT, and then weight...i have to admit, that made my heart rate increase slightly lol. It was kinda cringy. But now that I've seen him do it and have thought about it for a bit, that is actually a really good pro tip! Its definitely better than nothing, and as long as u are clipped down near the rock, it looks like it works well (surprisingly well lol) for secured positioning. This whole tutorial video was amazing! Very informative and well put together. Lol I'm glad someone is out there doing this too, because that looks alot like "work" to me. As a rope access technician/rigger, I do MORE THAN ENOUGH work in my harness during the week lol. Work is the very LAST thing I wanna do when I'm out trying to climb and enjoy myself.
Just started watching your videos. Bobby kept telling me that he was working with you on some of them. Great content! I discovered this wall with Bobby and am so glad to see so many routes going up on it still. Looking forward to coming back to CA and being a part of the development community again.
Ryan and Bobby, I have contributed to the channel and will do so again soon. Meanwhile, I am just in awe about how much you guys do for the climbing and slack line communities, so as someone who has been saved by a well placed bolt on a wall, let me just personally say thank you to you and developers everywhere. I guess I never really paid attention to the process and I’m so glad you do. Btw, love your dog! I’m betting he climbs about a 5.10c, lol...
3:06 - 3:15.. I love this channel more and more with every video I watch. I can't thank you enough. Exchanging some bad habits this spring/summer for slacklining and climbing!
I loved this video. I've been climbing for 15 years. And have only just recently lead a multi pitch climb. I love all the by busting and slack lining vids but would Love to see some more climbing
Absolutely awesome man! Nice of you to look out for new and casual climbers! Just not enough easy climbs out there for the casual climbers to play around on.
Thank you, guys. You do a great service to the rock climbing community. Sports rock climbing is my preferred type of climbing and it wouldn’t be possible without people like you.
You are both such amazing people i've been waiting for such a video for so long! Keep up you good work you cannot believe how hardly you are pushing and inspiring people all over the planet!
Wow this is fun. Just came across your videos and this is my 3rd one. I immediately sub'd. I started climbing in 1970 and so many changes. Not many biners to choose from back then, most of us used Chouinard, pitons were common, clogs, or wedges were just starting to appear, cam's hadn't appeared yet, and if you placed a bolt, you did it with a drill bit and a hammer. So much fun to watch, thanks for the videos.
This is hands down my favorite video so far. And that's quite high praise because I've liked all the HNT-Highline videos I've watched. Props to Bobby (and belayer) for putting in all this work. The area I'm in (NC) doesn't have (m)any easy multi-pitch sport routes so I really appreciate him putting up routes similar to the one in this video. Thanks to Ryan for reporting live for us!
@@JesseUnderscoreMartin Definitely, the run outs are a giant pucker fest for me! I did like in this video he talks about bolting to avoid those. Different styles from bolters I guess.
@@JesseUnderscoreMartin I forget the name of what my group did but we hit the off-width crack from the ground to the tree ledge and then I led the 5.8 from the ledge to anchors and then to the top, super ran out but tons of fun, found out falling on slab isnt that terrible! Go for it
Ya man. Those Milwaukee drills are great. Super light compared to my old Bosch. Super informative to new route setters. I've never tried clipping my drill bit and yes I have a few scars from hot drill bits.
I admire what you do. I would love to get involved in developing a bigger area where I live. But possibilities are extremely limited. I am trying to get every piece of education I can when opportunity presents itself so I can hop in and not be a complete noob. Thank you for those education videos.
I am on the older side and back in the day bolting was a crime. I realize now things are different and since I am getting back into the sport its good for me. I never really liked long run outs and generally avoided them. I took a short leader fall when I was 15 and fractured my skull so I always feared the first 75 feet or so on many climbs. Bobby seams like a really good person, thinking of others. Does anyone know why no one has ever put a few bolts in Snake Dyke? I know its not rated very hard but I am sure it would be much more enjoyable minus the long run outs. I think you answered my question, since Snake Dyke is in a National Park. Take care.
This was cool to watch! In my mind setting routes is one of the coolest things you can do cause even after you're long gone, your route will still be there.
This is great! More climbing and general rigging advice demonstrating things in the real world, followed by break tests of those same setups back at the slack-snap, such a great combo.
Ideally, I like to repel in from the top, drill anchors & climb the rope on TopRope enough times to put tape marks where I want the bolts. So I can guarantee it's a three-star flow before; I bolts on TopRope 📰 it's a different style of bolting. Being better for the rock, if it's not a good route. Because you're not Boulting and then testing the flow and sequence of the moves.
Why don't you have an episode load-testing for people belayed off a drill. Maybe you could place Bobby clipped to his drill bit and use a Dyno and pulleys to see the force needed to pull him down. Astonished at this oversight :) Excellent work, huge respect to him setting routes for others especially beginner level
Yes but "take you out". That's not clear if it means he'll take you out climbing, go for a romantic date, or it meant he pulls out a Glock 9mm for a professional hit. Be careful what you wish for.
Very good point on the first bolt. In my opinion beginner friendly = safer. Unfortunately where I live (Frankenjura) there's a culture of putting the first bolt up really high - because "if that scares you, you shouldn't be climbing this route anyway". 🙄
@@bobbyhutton1989 ... and more, depending on the landing area ... maybe I should finally get one. IDK why but still feels like cheating 😉. Thanks for the great video, Bobby.
Good video, here in Quebec Canada it is encouraged to be certified in order to bolt routes. This way you learn the proper way to bolt a safe route. One step I didn't see in the videos is that it is recommended to tap the rock with a hammer in order to ensure that you are not bolting a large flake. When you tap the rock you can listen and feel the rock if it's hollow underneath. Look at the surrounding cracks to make sure you are not bolting a weak area. Just my 2 cents. I love the channel!
@@bobbyhutton1989 The way things work for the most part in the province is that the FQME is the federation that oversees most of the climbing crags and they come up with "standards" to equip the routes. They have a bunch of clubs for the different regions and they are in turn in charge of maintaining and opening new spots. The people that open the routes are then certified by the FQME in order to standardized the hardware that is being used and the way things are laid on the rock. In most cases, the FQME will supply the hardware to equip these sites. You need to be a member of the FQME to climb at these sites, this membership also gives you climbing insurance and other benefits. I honestly believe this is a great way to promote the sport and keep it safe and prevent anybody from doing things that are not safe. Of course people are free to do what they want on private properties.
Great video Ryan. I think that the leader should be a better climber than 5.7 when multipitch. It’s so easy to get off route, slippery from thunder storms or wind gusts, rope sticks, heavy packs, or racing the sun from crowds. Is the decent difficult at night. So many factors to think about, I’ll I’m saying is be safe and know your limitations.
Huge fan of Bobby's choice to bolt for the breaking-in leader. Its unfortunate that it seems most of the great areas to develop (accessible, good rock, striking) have already been developed, it seems.... leaving so many of the good lines bolted more... well, dangerously...and "unethical" to fix. Its kind of like if I could just comment "first" on this video and that somehow gave me the right to endanger everyone who wanted to watch it after me. "Put up your own FAs then" is hard argument to make when most of the accessible good rock has already been developed under poor practices (as far as safety goes). R&I's 30 year accident review found that inadequate protection is responsible for ~15% of sport climbing injuries. That's nearly identical to accidents while lowering (17%). Thanks Bobby for putting in adequate pro for us newbs!
@@bobbyhutton1989 they use monkey fist, overhand, figure eight to stuck it into crack, slings hung on or threaded trough rock features like hourglass, i think some kind of keVlar reinforced rope this type gear: www.planetmountain.com/en/photos/the-sand-rules-traditional-climbing-sandstone-towers-czech-republic/55360?s=4 and here uforing.eu/de/home-page-de/
@@bobbyhutton1989 i guess it is hardly used these days and you will rather read about in the books if you look back to 1950,,60 and 70 it was the way - beside hooks, pitons and etc. they used slings or hemp rope to wrap pebble stones and stuck into the crack. Anyway in emergency situations might still be usefull to know. Looking forward for your video.
I live in Dresden and go climbing in the close by sandstones in saxony and western czechia. I can tell you that all this stuff is still in use. Saxonian climbing regulations are really strict, and routes get bolts (rings) only where natural sling placements are not possible, still today. Old routes usually don't get rebolted and have something like 0 to 4 rings on pitches from 20 to 50m. I am not very advanced with knot placements, but I could try to collect some testing scenarios. Main difficulty could be to simulate the rock where the knots are placed in in the pulling machine.
I install these stainless steel bolts almost weekly at my job. I'm an Industrial electrician and I promise you. Installing these anchors are life saving. I walk along these very same supports trusting my life with the person who installed them. Above drop ceilings in food factory's. We are tied off almost similar to how you guys are, except our harness extends over our shoulders. I'm curious why you harness only around the waist at 1,000 ft. But I have to be in a fully body harness 25 feet up.
Ayyy... I love your stuff. I’m a patron subscriber. I’ve been doing route dev at a place with a whole lot of choss... if you’re wanted to do a video about cleaning routes (how much to trundle, specifically) that’d be really helpful... I haven’t seen anything on Yt
That video is on the to do list. My other crag is total choss. I think many developers are hesitant to show that part of the process. A little like showing what goes into sausage.
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People like Bobby are the reason why I like climbing and it's community this much. Such a humble and kind guy. The world needs more people like him.
He's literally spending hundreds of dollars of his own money just to bring some happiness to other people in the community. Top notch guy.
I love this guy
I like Bobby
@@thejohnhend I too fw bobby
Was about 20 mins in before I realized I had climbed that route! Thanks so much Bobby, that wall holds a special place in my heart, so great taking beginners on easy fun multipitches in the area with no crowd, and where I did my first multi trad leads! Can’t wait for the snow to melt and get back to it!
Rad! Emigrant wall holds a special place in my heart as well. I am expecting to be able to get up there in the next month or so. -Bobby
I hope you guys meet in person because this is such a pure exchange. I would shake both of your hands
From every video I've seen of with the two of you, Bobby is such a humble dude. Chuckling at the thought of him hanging off a fresh route working in those last few bolts with a silent (almost cheeky) grin on his face. Like a happy mystic bolting monk.
I wish that was always the case. Often there is under the breath cursing bc I just tightened a hanger on my finger or knock a rock into my shin.
Mystic bolting monk. That's perfect. Haha
I appreciate you bolting for the person who is just getting into leading the rating as opposed to bolting for the more experienced climber on an easy for them climb.
Yeah I’ve unknowingly climbed into one of those slab runouts and had a panic attack
I really enjoy these kind of videos.
- climbing related (trad, sport, multi-pitch)
- showing the whole process
- thoughts about technical aspects
- thoughts about climbing ethics
- educational
- with some fine wit
excellent job
a big thank you to Bobby and Ryan (+also the patient belayer)
okay I'm totally loving Bobby Bolt Hutton. I will follow him anywhere. He's such a great ambassador for the sport. World class boltman.
Word
Seeing Bobby on video in the garage, he his a nice dude.
Seeing him in his natural element:
He is awesome, kind, methodical, skilled, careful ...
He is not the kind of guy that wants attention, but he is the kind of guy that enjoys a good listener.
I don't think Ryan falls in the "good listener" category 😁
I've never even climbed a pebble in my life, but this channel gives off an incredibly positive vibe of the whole climbing community. So incredibly wholesome!
I really like how Bobby not only wore a visible shirt, but also that he coordinated his shirt with his drill.
And coordinated with *one* of his rock shoes
I really liked the clip at 20:10. It’s very representative of us route developers. We spend so much money on placing bolts and replacing bolts that we don’t have any money left over to buy a new matching pair of shoes.
It’s nice to see someone putting in routes that are aimed at newer climbers. So much of route development where I am is done by high end sport climbers. Putting in anything new under 5.12 or thereabouts would be frowned upon.
Bobby seems like a genuinely good-hearted person. Thanks for the video!
Not only does Bobby look great in red, but he's a great guy and a very thoughtful individual.
So these are the guys that make climbing safe. Tipping my hat to you.
bobby i think you are a community hero, looks like a great climb
Bobby is a diamond in the rough. Or a crystal on the slab. Or something... but seriously. What a lovely bloke.
"Crystal on the slab" That sounds painful.
@@DetachaplePenis Painful... yet... useful??
This is the best route setting video I’ve seen
Thank you for bolting. Hero.
Besides this being a cool video, I love you put in the time to develop some beginner friendly routes. Having gone through beginner grades only a few years back I very much remember how scary “easy” routes can be. This is a great way for newer climbers to safely gain experience and enjoy climbing.
I'm not from your area but thank you guys for your time. For the video and for putting in the anchors. God bless you both. Thank you
Bless you Bobby for thinking of those that aren’t climbing in the 5.13 range. 😂 edit: and for being considerate of climbers who aren’t 6 ft tall
Praise b to the Bolters of the world! Yall making the next generation of getting started out doors so much safer!
12:33 Very true, let the tool due the work, don't force it. This is true for portable band saws as well while cutting rebar. You will wear down the blade so much faster if you add force rather than just letting it cut. A few seconds is not worth the price for more blades.
Ryan got so genuinely nervous when Bobby weighted his personal on the drill bit. 😱
Great video guys, love your work and thanks for bolting something beginner-friendly!
You guys have added so much practical and digestible knowledge to the climbing community, a thank you is hardly enough!
Ohhh yes! These Route-Setting/Climbing Videos are just the best! Want more xD
Like Bobby, I too often climb wearing two different shoes. When someone points them out I tell them, "I have a pair just like this at home."
Wow..watching him clip his personal lanyard TO THE BIT, and then weight...i have to admit, that made my heart rate increase slightly lol. It was kinda cringy. But now that I've seen him do it and have thought about it for a bit, that is actually a really good pro tip! Its definitely better than nothing, and as long as u are clipped down near the rock, it looks like it works well (surprisingly well lol) for secured positioning.
This whole tutorial video was amazing! Very informative and well put together. Lol I'm glad someone is out there doing this too, because that looks alot like "work" to me. As a rope access technician/rigger, I do MORE THAN ENOUGH work in my harness during the week lol. Work is the very LAST thing I wanna do when I'm out trying to climb and enjoy myself.
As an electrician who uses power tools everyday, I approve of the use of Milwaukee. That little drill is one bad Larry
Just started watching your videos. Bobby kept telling me that he was working with you on some of them. Great content! I discovered this wall with Bobby and am so glad to see so many routes going up on it still. Looking forward to coming back to CA and being a part of the development community again.
next break test: falling on an drill-bolt
Instead of getting a take, I just drill into the rock and anchor on the bit. Much safer. /s
Ryan and Bobby, I have contributed to the channel and will do so again soon. Meanwhile, I am just in awe about how much you guys do for the climbing and slack line communities, so as someone who has been saved by a well placed bolt on a wall, let me just personally say thank you to you and developers everywhere. I guess I never really paid attention to the process and I’m so glad you do. Btw, love your dog! I’m betting he climbs about a 5.10c, lol...
Thanks for the kind words. Dog only climbs 5.4 and v-easy.
Thanks for bolting new routes guys! You’re awesome!
3:06 - 3:15.. I love this channel more and more with every video I watch. I can't thank you enough. Exchanging some bad habits this spring/summer for slacklining and climbing!
I loved this video.
I've been climbing for 15 years. And have only just recently lead a multi pitch climb.
I love all the by busting and slack lining vids but would Love to see some more climbing
You form an excellent team with boby ! The quality of the video have greatly improve over the year ! Glad to see more climbing stuff on the channel !
Absolutely awesome man! Nice of you to look out for new and casual climbers! Just not enough easy climbs out there for the casual climbers to play around on.
Thank you, guys. You do a great service to the rock climbing community. Sports rock climbing is my preferred type of climbing and it wouldn’t be possible without people like you.
You are both such amazing people i've been waiting for such a video for so long! Keep up you good work you cannot believe how hardly you are pushing and inspiring people all over the planet!
I love it when Bobby refers to himself in the 3rd person. Nice video dudes!
Wow this is fun. Just came across your videos and this is my 3rd one. I immediately sub'd. I started climbing in 1970 and so many changes. Not many biners to choose from back then, most of us used Chouinard, pitons were common, clogs, or wedges were just starting to appear, cam's hadn't appeared yet, and if you placed a bolt, you did it with a drill bit and a hammer.
So much fun to watch, thanks for the videos.
This is hands down my favorite video so far. And that's quite high praise because I've liked all the HNT-Highline videos I've watched.
Props to Bobby (and belayer) for putting in all this work. The area I'm in (NC) doesn't have (m)any easy multi-pitch sport routes so I really appreciate him putting up routes similar to the one in this video.
Thanks to Ryan for reporting live for us!
Ever try Stone Mountain in NC? I am a beginner climber and that was my first multi-pitch climbing. Super fun
@@NauticalWizard I've done the arch and no alternative at Stone. Both fun, but no alt is a little spicy with the run outs, even though it's just 5.5!
@@JesseUnderscoreMartin Definitely, the run outs are a giant pucker fest for me! I did like in this video he talks about bolting to avoid those. Different styles from bolters I guess.
@@NauticalWizard Yeah bolted =/= sport, haha. I've been looking at Another Alt and The Pulpit but I don't think I'm QUITE ready
@@JesseUnderscoreMartin I forget the name of what my group did but we hit the off-width crack from the ground to the tree ledge and then I led the 5.8 from the ledge to anchors and then to the top, super ran out but tons of fun, found out falling on slab isnt that terrible! Go for it
Ya man. Those Milwaukee drills are great. Super light compared to my old Bosch.
Super informative to new route setters.
I've never tried clipping my drill bit and yes I have a few scars from hot drill bits.
Very nice video guys! Thanks for uploading! More climbing video’s are always welcome, I like the “on the fly” video’s!👌🏻🙏🏻
That is awesome especially for someone like me who is new to lead climbing outdoors. Thank you for your contributions to the climbing community!
The two of you are awesome
Thank's Bobby
I admire what you do. I would love to get involved in developing a bigger area where I live. But possibilities are extremely limited. I am trying to get every piece of education I can when opportunity presents itself so I can hop in and not be a complete noob. Thank you for those education videos.
I just really like seeing videos of you guys getting out in the mountains, whether its slacklining, climbing, or teaching us about bolting!
I am on the older side and back in the day bolting was a crime. I realize now things are different and since I am getting back into the sport its good for me. I never really liked long run outs and generally avoided them. I took a short leader fall when I was 15 and fractured my skull so I always feared the first 75 feet or so on many climbs. Bobby seams like a really good person, thinking of others. Does anyone know why no one has ever put a few bolts in Snake Dyke? I know its not rated very hard but I am sure it would be much more enjoyable minus the long run outs. I think you answered my question, since Snake Dyke is in a National Park. Take care.
Wow, what a neat video!!! Thank you Bobby!
Glad you liked it!
It would be cool to go over trad development, route finding, when to bolt anchors or leave for gear, etc!
This style of video is really awesome 👏. I learned so much!
This was cool to watch! In my mind setting routes is one of the coolest things you can do cause even after you're long gone, your route will still be there.
Your videos are great! I like how you focus on the ethics. Please keep doing what you are doing.
This is great! More climbing and general rigging advice demonstrating things in the real world, followed by break tests of those same setups back at the slack-snap, such a great combo.
Great job guys! Stellar video. Good to see you in your element, Bobby.
so these are the guys making this all possible
Ideally, I like to repel in from the top, drill anchors & climb the rope on TopRope enough times to put tape marks where I want the bolts. So I can guarantee it's a three-star flow before; I bolts on TopRope 📰 it's a different style of bolting. Being better for the rock, if it's not a good route. Because you're not Boulting and then testing the flow and sequence of the moves.
I'd LOVE to see more of these climbing videos
Much respect for the work and effort of people like bobby!
I really like this kind of video. keep it going!
Bobby your the best. Wish I could climb with you some day
Thanks Bobby ! Nice route for beginners!
Life goal: be like Bobby
Why don't you have an episode load-testing for people belayed off a drill. Maybe you could place Bobby clipped to his drill bit and use a Dyno and pulleys to see the force needed to pull him down. Astonished at this oversight :) Excellent work, huge respect to him setting routes for others especially beginner level
Great content for sport climbers, keep it up guys!
been waiting on this. thanks so much guys
"Give Bobby 12 bolts, he'll take you out" Is that a promise?! Where do I ship them?
Also wondering
Yes but "take you out". That's not clear if it means he'll take you out climbing, go for a romantic date, or it meant he pulls out a Glock 9mm for a professional hit. Be careful what you wish for.
Tom Tom what do you mean? Those all sound fantastic
very good tips
This stuff is so cool. Many many thanks. Definitely gonna get out to this spot. Thanks for sharing. Much love!
Thanks. Have fun out there -Bobby
Very good point on the first bolt. In my opinion beginner friendly = safer. Unfortunately where I live (Frankenjura) there's a culture of putting the first bolt up really high - because "if that scares you, you shouldn't be climbing this route anyway". 🙄
Stick clips save ankles.
Not only in Frankenjura but also in the south.
@@bobbyhutton1989 ... and more, depending on the landing area ... maybe I should finally get one. IDK why but still feels like cheating 😉. Thanks for the great video, Bobby.
What an awesome channel
Could you guys do something on re-bolting old routes and anchors? How to know when a bolt needs replacing, placements, etc..
Several videos on the channel about rebolting already. Most likely more on the way. Some resources in the Bolting bible on Slackline.com.
the dog playing its my favorite part of the video hahaha
Super interesting and useful! Thank you guys for your work and videos, appreciate that! 👍👍
bobby for president
Good video, here in Quebec Canada it is encouraged to be certified in order to bolt routes. This way you learn the proper way to bolt a safe route. One step I didn't see in the videos is that it is recommended to tap the rock with a hammer in order to ensure that you are not bolting a large flake. When you tap the rock you can listen and feel the rock if it's hollow underneath. Look at the surrounding cracks to make sure you are not bolting a weak area. Just my 2 cents. I love the channel!
What's the certification process? Governing body?
@@beaniebobh1 it's governed by the FQME
Interesting I will check them out. I am not aware of any other "bolting certification".
@@bobbyhutton1989 The way things work for the most part in the province is that the FQME is the federation that oversees most of the climbing crags and they come up with "standards" to equip the routes. They have a bunch of clubs for the different regions and they are in turn in charge of maintaining and opening new spots. The people that open the routes are then certified by the FQME in order to standardized the hardware that is being used and the way things are laid on the rock. In most cases, the FQME will supply the hardware to equip these sites. You need to be a member of the FQME to climb at these sites, this membership also gives you climbing insurance and other benefits. I honestly believe this is a great way to promote the sport and keep it safe and prevent anybody from doing things that are not safe. Of course people are free to do what they want on private properties.
go the 12 volt drill! i just got one recently and oh man they work well with so little weight.
Great video Ryan. I think that the leader should be a better climber than 5.7 when multipitch. It’s so easy to get off route, slippery from thunder storms or wind gusts, rope sticks, heavy packs, or racing the sun from crowds. Is the decent difficult at night. So many factors to think about, I’ll I’m saying is be safe and know your limitations.
Huge fan of Bobby's choice to bolt for the breaking-in leader.
Its unfortunate that it seems most of the great areas to develop (accessible, good rock, striking) have already been developed, it seems.... leaving so many of the good lines bolted more...
well, dangerously...and "unethical" to fix.
Its kind of like if I could just comment "first" on this video and that somehow gave me the right to endanger everyone who wanted to watch it after me.
"Put up your own FAs then" is hard argument to make when most of the accessible good rock has already been developed under poor practices (as far as safety goes).
R&I's 30 year accident review found that inadequate protection is responsible for ~15% of sport climbing injuries. That's nearly identical to accidents while lowering (17%). Thanks Bobby for putting in adequate pro for us newbs!
I'm 5'2" thanks for thinking of us Bobby 😁
Love the climbing-in action vids
I’ve always wondered how this was done
Nice 😎
can you test knotted ropes protection for trad climbing in czech and polish sandstone where cams and nuts are not allowed.
In the plans. Do you know what knots get used?
@@bobbyhutton1989 they use monkey fist, overhand, figure eight to stuck it into crack, slings hung on or threaded trough rock features like hourglass, i think some kind of keVlar reinforced rope this type gear: www.planetmountain.com/en/photos/the-sand-rules-traditional-climbing-sandstone-towers-czech-republic/55360?s=4
and here uforing.eu/de/home-page-de/
Awesome! I was assuming it was something like that but have never seen a video or other instruction on what knots they actually use.
@@bobbyhutton1989 i guess it is hardly used these days and you will rather read about in the books if you look back to 1950,,60 and 70 it was the way - beside hooks, pitons and etc. they used slings or hemp rope to wrap pebble stones and stuck into the crack. Anyway in emergency situations might still be usefull to know. Looking forward for your video.
I live in Dresden and go climbing in the close by sandstones in saxony and western czechia. I can tell you that all this stuff is still in use. Saxonian climbing regulations are really strict, and routes get bolts (rings) only where natural sling placements are not possible, still today. Old routes usually don't get rebolted and have something like 0 to 4 rings on pitches from 20 to 50m. I am not very advanced with knot placements, but I could try to collect some testing scenarios. Main difficulty could be to simulate the rock where the knots are placed in in the pulling machine.
I install these stainless steel bolts almost weekly at my job. I'm an Industrial electrician and I promise you. Installing these anchors are life saving. I walk along these very same supports trusting my life with the person who installed them. Above drop ceilings in food factory's. We are tied off almost similar to how you guys are, except our harness extends over our shoulders. I'm curious why you harness only around the waist at 1,000 ft. But I have to be in a fully body harness 25 feet up.
Go Bobby!!!
Ayyy... I love your stuff. I’m a patron subscriber. I’ve been doing route dev at a place with a whole lot of choss... if you’re wanted to do a video about cleaning routes (how much to trundle, specifically) that’d be really helpful... I haven’t seen anything on Yt
That video is on the to do list. My other crag is total choss. I think many developers are hesitant to show that part of the process. A little like showing what goes into sausage.
Milwaukee for the win
You guys are inspirational!! Keep it up!! Thanks for the great content!!!
thanks guys, appreciate info
When drilling downwards it helps to pull the drill bit out every now and then so the debri are pulled out also and then it is easier to the power tool
Great Work and cool Video !! Greetings from Germany!
You guys rock. I would really like to bolt a route someday.
godspeed bobby!
I'm 5'2" thanks for thinking of us Bobby!
Very compelling content
And I have never rock climbed in my life and barely really know what it is
Gotta love the crag pups!
Mad props for lead bolting
Ehh, makes way more sense to lead bolt multi pitch. You never know where the route will take you. Especially when it is easy.
16:54 As goofy as that may seem I could totally see that tip saving someone's life, or at least their health.