Model Steam Locomotive Building (Connecting Rods) - Dyak pt 13.
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- Опубліковано 13 тра 2024
- This is Steamworx, a Model Engineering channel. Building Dyak continued...
It’s time to join all the wheels together! Now that the repairs to the horn-blocks have been made and the wheels reworked its time to see if we were accurate enough!
Building this model steam engine in 2 1/2 inch gauge, Dyak (an LBSC design) continues with making and fitting the connecting rods. There are not too many bits but they all take time to make. The video is some 20 minutes long but represents over 30 hours of work, which is a big ask of evenings and the odd day at the weekend!
I am using another shop made cutter which will was the subject of a recent video, please have a look if you have not seen it yet.
I hope you approve!
Please comment and subscribe, let me know what you think or would like to
see!
Enjoy!
If you are interested in 2½” gauge locos please visit ‘The National 2½" Gauge Association’ at www.n25ga.org/
Castings for this and many other locos available from Kennions at www.kennions.co.uk/ - Навчання та стиль
Very nice work. I’m sure this loco is going to be beautiful.
Thank you very much, means a lot from you! If it comes out as good as your lockdown knives I will be very pleased!
most impressive stuff!!!
You are very kind, thank you.
There are 3 points on a locobuild, that are always are my nightmare.....
A boiler pressure test
A loose but tight fitting drivewirk frame
And a fitting piston....
Everything else is just optical detail.... 🤣
Nice work!!!
I agree but would add the coupling rods running reasonably free in the cranks. Many get to this stage and it all binds up, the model then goes under the bench and another gets started, and the same happens again. Lots of frames at this stage for sale online! Thank you for your excellent comment!!
Have had to do all my motion work by hand ,hack saw and filled. With the ends rounded on the lathe LBSC style !
After 7 locomotives finally bought my last model laser cut rods etc . By the way if you’re using laser cut parts I found that you need to heat them to cherry red and let them cool down slowly before you can clean them up with a file. The laser cut makes them really hard . Great video must buy a mill to help me with my work 😊
I did many by hacksaw before getting the mill, it’s not necessarily a time saver but saves a bit of filing! I must be doing the rounded ends wrong LBSC style, it does not work for me! Thanks for the comment!!
Must say rounding the ends lbsc style is a right pain had to add bits of steel a few times to get over slip ups 😆 But it’s not the journey it’s the arrival that counts !
@@tonywright8294 Amen to that!
Cheers fir this just heated mine up let em cool and they are cleaning up much better
@@gagasmancave8859 👍
What spec of steel did use ? Does it matter ?
The steel I used was EN3 which is commonly known as bright mild steel (bms). Many modellers use stainless steel due to its anti rust properties, personally, after all the work that goes into them, I never let my locos go rusty! I don’t think it really matters what steel is used in this scale of modelling, the forces involved are not so great that the metallurgy is critical.
Nice video I just working on my coupling rods (I cheated and got them laser cut by model engineering lazer) ( no connection just happy customer)
I don’t blame you, it’s a lot of work, about 35 hours I have spent on these, then it’s about an hour a minute for the video!! Thanks for the comment!
Nice video! Loved the choo choo at the end 😂
@@molluscgaming got to have a choo choo!!😂